Hello friend 🙋🤔🤗 After I replaced the AC compressor I got rid of what was damaging the belt .Then alternator bearing was singing & the battery light indicator came on also engine was shaking , I knew that throttle body was clean , because the leaky intake manifold . So finally I found the cause why battery indicator comes on after 10 minutes running , since the manufacture put the white grease inside the 3 wire ( red , blue & yellow ) plug , those grease was like a cement , so when the car shakes then the battery indicator light started on & off . after applying the yellow type battery cleaner on the pluge I cleaned so well then I put in the alternator . as you remember you told me take the car to a garage , have them look at it . 😢 , no garage do not talk to me unless to leave it with them so the can make $ 300 up$ 500 . since I keep watching most of your awesome ❤👀 videoes , I did not give up or give in . At the age of 70 years old with the stroke & $ 780 a month SS payment & 2 college kid s & my wife income , I had to use the great knowledge of you the good one . I find the problems . alternator = $ 40 intake mani = $ 55 AC comp = $ 285 2 can R134 a 2 can watch it by sight glass till no buble = $ 12 & A great patience & blessing of my LORD❤❤ for you & me .the alternator repair plug if I get it in two days = $ 7: 29 Thank ❤❤ you for your great knowledge . 👌 🙏✟❤❤❤ I keep watching your videoes .
Worked like a champ. It extinguished the intermittent battery light. I think I blew mine when I disconnected the alternator signal wire with the engine running. Drove it like that for a couple of months, no harm. Your video was spot on for my 2012 Accord V6. Thank you.
@@hardlymovingpro I bet it wasnt the ELD. It was the connectors at 1:25. All you had to do was disconnect the battery & use electronic spray to clear the oxidation layer/corrosion. Copper, steal & aluminum don't go together.
Thank you for the VIDEO!!!! BOSS! I just ordered an ELD for my 2010 Honda Accord EX-L Coupe. I had electrical issues for years that started with my whole dashboard burning out and had to get a replacement. Main Battery Fuse once went out too and had to replace it as well. I found out later on that when I bought the car it was rebuilt and the power cables were cut by the firemen when the original owner had an accident. Then the mechanic soldered them and put a metal screw zip-tie on it (crap job). Past last 3 years I had a battery icon come on randomly sometimes for 2-5-20 minutes, I've changed the battery twice, starter, alternator and finally last weekend the charging cables. The battery icon still comes on randomly (alternator is good 14+ charging and tested)...my only solution now would be this ELD. I will update this post once I do receive it and install it. Just wanted to let some people know if they had a similar issue in the past as me.
Update. So the new relay helped with the spikes and lows of voltage. Now I have a constant 13.8-14v 😀. My only issue is idk battery drain? Once my car is off the battery will got to 11-12v. Ill start the car and have the battery icon for few seconds then the alternator kicks in and all is good. I don't have anything connected just a dash cam that I disconnect every time the car is off.
@@hardlymovingpro And you too since you apparently didn't know why someone did that. Obviously car lived in a rustbelt state at some point with a Mechanic that knew what he was doing and cared.
Don't know if you're still responding to this vid, but awesome explanation of the process. I just bought a 2009 accord coupe yesterday that has been garaged kept most of its life. This battery light just started coming on for around 20-30 seconds at a time then will disappear for several hours, before reappearing. Looks like I'm going to start at the lowest level and work my way up by trying this out first before messing with the alternator. Both alt & battery show good voltage when tested, so the issue for this light has to be something else.
Just replaced the Electrical load detector on 2011 Honda Pilot. the part cost me around $5 with tax, but the just required disconnecting, removing and disassembling the main fuse box on the right side shock tower. Not hard but tedious work. This is after replacing the alternator which I thought was failing cause of an intermittent flashing battery idiot light on the dashboard. Looks like it fixed the issue
This is exactly what I need to do tomorrow. My IG-main and drivers side fuse box fuse is blown. It’s the long second one you pulled out. I didn’t know how to get it out until I saw this. 😊😊😊 Thank u 4 ur vid.
Thanks for posting this. 2007 odyssey new alternator, battery and belt one year ago. Today the battery light started coming on. Checked battery and alternator. Both were good. I had no idea where to go next until I stumbled across your video. Thanks
@@hardlymovingpro hi mate I have same problem today I parked my car after 30 minutes won’t start I jumped batteries is work but when I change gear car is kicks and electronic shut off when I open lights car stopped I drove home stop and not start again? I think I have same problem my car Honda Accord 2008 v6 can you help me please
2010 Accord LX 2.4 5-speed: This video caused me to replace ELD, which didn’t help. But I knew to leave the grease on wires. This didn’t fix my issue. My dash battery light would flash on and off during the day but not at night or when lights were on, strange. My issue was a defective alternator I purchased from Advance auto which tested good along with battery. Curry Honda even tested it as good, saying I should get Honda alternator. They couldn’t really find the problem but the sure charged me $159 for nothing. My daughter helped me take alternator off and she noticed its pulley making a noise, so advance exchanged new alternator as defective. My light hasn’t flashed since we installed new advance auto alternator.
lot of good info in the comments. I am replacing my 02 civic ex ELD today coz of intermittent battery light. new alternator and battery 6 mo ago which fixed the issue (light came on after getting off the freeway of a long 200 mile drive. stayed on unless i revved past 3200rpm while driving (another reason manual transmissions are just better in every way). connected a cheapo bluetooth cigarette lighter thing that has a voltage reading on it. it shows 10 volts but ive read the battery itself and there is about a 1.5-2 volt difference. voltage in the car will show 10.1 (~12v) when battery light comes on, and then revving up shows ~11.3 (~13v) and battery light will go off. the strangest thing is that i found leaving the lights on even during the day makes the battery light go away and the voltage never drops below 11.1(~13v at the battery). this is what makes me think it is a slowly dieing or half dead ELD sensor/half blown fuse/crappy ground. if you have a automatic civic i would suggest first getting rid of it and switching to manual. then try increasing the load on the charging system by turning different things on like fan, lights, radio(and volume up?), highbeams. i thinking this will cause a big enough draw for the voltage the alienator sees to drop below a threshold and start charging and maybe partially bypasses the ELD somehow. side note the AC does not use electricity from the charging circuit and instead is just a clutchpack that engages on the shared alternator belt. good for testing the tension of the belt especially when combined with power steering, but i dont think it would help diagnose this problem. im probably too lazy to update this post like everyone else so I will only do so if this doesnt fix my problem. I think my troubleshooting explains why all these boomers think its a "random" or intermittent problem, nothing is random... youre just not observant enough
@@guillermoolvera1186 hmm i got a new ELD and compaired the resistance across the pins in the back with an old and new one, and it seemed like my old one was "shot". reading like 1/50th the resistance as the new one. put it in and car instantly had a lot more power, ran really good after warming up. few days later its back to doing the same thing. I think it is the altinator afterall and is frying the ELD. Tried putting the battery on trickle charge for a day also and no dice. I think it also has something to do with a bad valve cover gasket? i saw some oil dripping down on the altinator from my engine, and it didnt seem to go inside of the altinator but who knows, some probably did, ive had a new start go out on another car from drippy oil, and an altinator is basically a starter in reverse. Going to try and return the altninator to autozone since its only been 7 months, but im thinking since my problem is so nebulus the altinator might pass their "test". might just hit the pully with a hammer until she dont spin right to get a free one and make sure it doesnt end up back on the self for the next unlucky person. that or melt one of the wires around the stator. will update in a week or so when i have time to replace the altinator. was messing around with the tensioner and stuff hoping it was something like that. would probably help to do a tune up also (plugs, maybe wires, check their resistance cold a hot?, plugs atleast)
@@guillermoolvera1186 huh, ended up swapping the altinator as it was under warenty after all.stabalized the voltage a little bit at 0.1v higher, and maybe seemed to idle a tiny bit better. still all the same major symptoms. decided to rip out the electronic load sensor i replaced and double check resistances with volt meter. they showed the same values as when i put them in, about 10x OEM. frustrated i put the oem electronic load sensor back in, and bam problems with voltage drift minimized a lot. autozone sold me a garbage part, or it was one that someone swapped out and returned unscrupously. anyways the voltage still falls under 11v (no altinator charge) if there is no extra load applied like fan at low setting and/or parking lights. still feels like it had 15% power after warming up. I noticed however the slower the piston speed/rpm, the less of an issue this was. ironicalyl the car would have more power in 5th gear struggling to try to get up a hill, or even was faster off a line in 2nd gear. I replaced my sparkplugs when i got it, maybe 60-70k miles ago now. i thought i had replaced them inbetween but i took them out and they looked pretty bad. regapped them in the dark using a pocket knife and it helped a lot but maybe made an exaust leak. had new NGK copper heads on order (3$ ea on amazon) and swapped those in a few days ago. the NGK sparks have a crush ring type thing that you torque down and i think is why it made the exaust leak worse when checking them. instant +50hp. very suprizing. idk if its coz i have the vtec coil overs and they burn thru sparks faster, or if im just used to iridiums lasting forever. still probably needs a new electronic load sensor OEM, and im thinking there is an exaust leak from when my engine mount ffed off in half and the engine fell off lol... but its running a lot better now. mpg was down at like 20-25, and im hoping its a lot better now. ran some methanol fuel cleaner thru just for sacramental old car purposes.
Hello sir , I found the problem on my scion . It was AC compresor . It was a rebuilt , i bouht it $ 240 .3 years ago . Now we can drive it till some money drop from the sky😂🤣🌾🍀. Thank you .
I realize this is a 5 year upload but maybe it'll still help someone. I have a 2000 Honda Accord v6. Terrible electrical. Upgrade by doing what is called "big 3". I understand this is basically a audio upgrade but when I done this and nothing else.... I felt a huge difference in car performance. Make sure you get the OFC cables not the CCA. You'll be defeating the purpose.
Thanks for posting this. It helped me know where to start looking for the same issue I was having on a 2002 Honda Accord. Lots of older Hondas have the same or similar issue.
Awesome video, helped me replace the ELD but that wasn't the culprit. Has new battery & new alternator. So bummed. Don't know where else to look on this 2004 crv. 😪
did you figure out any solutions? I have a 2004 crv and changed my alternator twice and the battery is in great condition. also replaced the ELD and nothing turns off the battery light..
Thanks for the wonderful video. How could you exclude the alternator as being the malfunctioning cause of red battery light? You said in the video alternator and battery are working well
Yes...a sporadically malfunctioning alternator could be the cause; however, from my experience with bad alternators they are either working or not working (not sometimes).
One month we got an intermittent battery sign (not flashing), but it would stay on for a few seconds and come back. A few days later while driving all lights on the dashboard flashed on 2014 Odyssey and van almost died. We replaced the alternator. After 1-month similar battery sign is back. Tested both battery and alternator, both good. Honda dealer told us spool value is leaking oil but independent mechanic did not find leaks. Even if spool value is leaking can it destroy the alternator in 1 month ?
After 2 new batteries and 2 new alternators, valve gasket cover replacement and solenoid valve replacement, I am sitting in a parking lot with a dead battery. I am financially broke for 17 days. I am devastated by this problem. Honda Odyssey EXL 2008.
@@hardlymovingpro I agree. However, the 5th alternator was just installed yesterday. I think that I will have to take the car to the Honda dealership. Two guys from the park insisted on helping me and got under the hood, pulling fuses out, unplugging things and replugging them...now my alarm system has been disabled.
I guess I’m going to have to do this to my crosstour because it just started happening where the battery light will come on then go off and I just put a new battery and alternator in it so I will go to dealer and get that piece and put it in myself & see what happens
@hardlyMovingpro did you have problems with dimming blinking dashlights and headlights?? i have a honda crv 2005 and have these issues, the voltage do not fluctuate like yours but it does changes while driving, last time i replaced alternator and battery it looked like it helped for a little bit but the issue came back again
Also don't forget if you have an electronic Throttle body...The light goes out when you drive it. Check the Throttle body plate location at idle or rest..It should read 3%
Great video. Please help: I have a 97 Honda Accord that suddenly smelt of burned rubber while driving and the dash battery light came on. Got new battery and bought an Auto Zone rebuilt alternator to install. Car ran great and a/c was even colder for 30 minutes then, the dash battery light came on again. Mechanic did side eye when i told em i bought auto zone alternator and told me to request an alternator with higher amps because my car is fully electric. Installed 90 amp alt (1st was 80) and dash battery light came on again within 5 minutes of driving. Now, I noticed while parked the light does not turn on. But if I drive without anything on, the light comes on intermittently. If i drive and have either headlights or a/c on…light does not turn on and my voltage is 13.7 to 14.2. I’ve had the eld cel code few years back when I had to move fuse box to install upper control arm. But, i cleaned and played with eld connector and code went away. I have NO trouble codes now. But, intermittent dash light problem has me stumped. WHAT IS YOUR OPINION ON WHAT IT COULD BE?Please respond, I’d really appreciate it.
Same issue Honda Pilot Touring 2011. Check charging system light on and off. This happened after alternator died. Replaced 2 alternators, 2 Batteries and now the ELD. Light still coming on and off. However, no performance issues.
Combination of replacing both the ELD and the alternator. The rebuilt alternator was outputting inconstant voltage. Replaced with a remanufactured Denso OE (Original Equipment) alternator.
My '07 Accord V6 original alternator died (squealing sound and then eventually some burning smell) before killing my battery in the process. The other warning was battery light stayed on the instrument panel and then eventually SRS and Airbag indicators kicked in as well. I replaced the alternator and battery with some auto parts store parts (I know, I know, should have gone OEM). Starts up okay, drives okay but once the car is warm (after about an hour into my commute) the battery indicator will randomly come on and then off again. No Check Engine light and OBD2 scanner does not return any codes. I put it a 12V socket voltage meter and I noticed that when the battery light comes on the voltage reading will be at about 12.1V. The rest of the time at idle it will be around 12.5V/12.6V. If I turn on the rear defroster, roll up/down the power windows, etc., then the reading shoots back above 13.7V to 14.1V so at least the alternator is able to pump out enough juice. Does this mean the voltage regulator is good? Did some Google searches and some say it could be the ELD. Any ideas??
If you bought a reman alternator, it could be the alternator clutch is not working properly. Here's a video on the subject: ua-cam.com/video/LKqy0WrmFwo/v-deo.html
Great video, my battery light don't come on , i just get the , checking system . Its a warning . Ping , ping , check charging system . I changed the alternator, new belt , battery was test . Good .... I also put a test in the cigarette input ...goes from 12 to 14 , high rpm .. What are you thinking it could be ? Eld part
I will have to get it done my honda accord crosstour 2014 having the same problem hopefully this will solve it and thx for the video regardless if my will work or not
I have a 2011 pilot , I replace Alternator and the battery twice thinking that both are defective. Light still coming on and off I'm tired of wasting money hope this video help me out to finally fixed thanks for posting.
Hi have you ever changed whole fuse box in honda or toyota. seems like it is not like you remove wire connector and swap , there are lot of wires we have to manually unpin most of wires, is that true, pls adivse.
Yes it did for a little while. Then his alternator clutch went bad. Went through 2 rebuilt alternators until the customer got frustrated and agreed to purchase a OEM Denso rebuilt alternator. All electrical problems disappeared.
I have an 04 Honda accord LX , 2.4. I replaced my ELD part # 38231-SDA-A01. I can't remember but does the center post facing downward, is there a connector that plugs into that post?
Thank you 🙏 My 2015 Odyssey has the same problem. Sometimes the battery light comes on while driving. When I turn the engine off and then start it again the light goes off. It has been off for a month, it came on today and then went off. Should I change the ELD? How can I know if it's bad? Is it okay to buy it from ebay?
Could be. Get one of those accessory port plug in volt meters and monitor the voltage while driving. That'll give you a clue if it might also be an alternator problem.
I have 2003 honda accord coupe v6 battery icon flashin....battery new and everything showing normal i was thinking maybe be alternater fuse what you think?
Yes! Thank you and all that good stuff.. buuuut… Those pliers ?!? Custom job making them round at the point? Or a link perhaps please to the make and model of them suckers ! 🤝🏽
"What's this grease" *proceeds to wash it away* lol i hope u put some back on. it's on the underside of the fuse box for a reason.. corrosion is the last thing u want in your fuse box
Might very well be. Replacing the ELD is cheaper than the next fix; which is the alternator. Also check your battery connectors and the condition of the battery. If the battery is low, recharge it, clean and reconnect the battery connectors and monitor the voltage with the car running with a accessory port plug in voltage display meter. They're cheap ... less than $10.
Honda Accord 2013 , it show warning msg check charge sys then show on dash board Battery ,Air bag , Abs , steering wheel powe get off and can’t accept accelerate pedal then car get off i don’t know if Battery sensor can do this or (Electronic Load Device)! Thanks
Would the ELD Prevent the car from starting? Or just the starter. Battery lights been flashing intermittently but not at a steady consistent flash pattern, it may go on ---------- then off then on -off------ then on ----------------------- then off for like 2days. Mean while all connections have been checked battery gets a full charge from the Alternator, battery is still in its prime. My guess is the starter could be going out on me. LMK what you think it could be
It's a LED voltage display meter that plugs into your cigarette lighter or electrical accessory port. I provide a Amazon link to it in this video's "show more" section.
Hello HMB, I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey EXL. Yesterday all the lights came up on dash and battery went dead fast. I use it to work a taxi service. A mobile mechanic put another alternator on it.. everything check out good after he used his scanner.. my battery is good as well. After driving it about 20 miles yesterday, I parked it then woke up this morning and battery was dead again. He swapped alternator out for another and that alternator charged battery for a short while (but not at first) but after unplugging side plug from alternator and plugging back up, it starting working... but now battery dead again after driving it less than 10 miles... That's 2 new alternators and van is still doing same thing. Also he checked fuses and the ones he checked were good. Any tips would be great & much appreciated regarding what it could be. Maybe a fuse somewhere that people miss? Thank you
Could be a low quality rebuilt alternator. Had a similar problem years ago with AutoZone rebuilds. Customer agreed to install a new Denso OEM alternator. All problems disappeared!
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for taking the time to comment your input. I'm a US Navy Veteran and I depend on this taxi gig for majority of my income. Again..thank you for responding..
I have a 2004 Honda Civic Sir 2.0 and the battery light stays on. My alternator appears to be working based on 14.5V at the battery terminals when car is running. Based on your video, if I monitor the voltage and it fluctuates I should change the ELD. What was the crap you cleaned out of the bottom of the fuse box, and could that have been your problem? Is there a way to test the ELD before pulling fuse box out?
hi Jd! did you figure out how to turn off the battery light. i have the same problem and have changed the alternator two times. battery is great as well
Hello i had an issue with battery light flashing on and off.Around 2 months ago my car lost power while driving so i got it towed because car battery cables didnt seem to help so i towed to mechanic was told needed alternator and belt so i got a new alternator and belt.I went to orailys to get a check on battery and said my battery was bad but the orailys employee also said to check diode thats what said on the battery pad what do you suggest before buying a new battery for honda civic 2000
Could be a defective rebuilt alternator that malfunctions sporadically. It's very deceptive. Get a cigarette lighter plug voltage display device (like what I used in the video) and monitor the voltage output while driving the car. Any drop into the 12v range is a bad alternator.
My emissions light and battery light are solid on Very recently too I blew a fuse in my 2009 civic Found the blown fuse and replaced it but didn't disconnect the battery first Any suggestions?
Could this cause erratic lights flashing AC won’t work nor will windows. I switched out battery because that was the first light to come on. Put new battery in there and it got worse.
Sounds like you have an alternator problem. Get one of those plug in voltage display devices for your accessory port to monitor the voltage output while driving.
Greetings I have a 2005 Honda Civic ex. I’ve replace the alternator and battery. Car ran fine for 2 days. But when I cut it off the last time it didn’t start. The radio and all the light came on but when I turn the key over and it did was click. After I got a jump it started drove for 2 minutes and the needle on the dashboard keep going up and down. Then it wouldn’t accelerate. Also the turning signals didn’t work either. First place said I needed a new alternator. But replace that and the battery. The second place I went to said I needed a new computer. Do you have any recommendations on what I should do next before replacing the computer? Thanks ahead
Get a accessory (cigarette lighter) plug in volt meter to monitor the voltage output while driving. While driving, the voltage should be 13.8 to 14.4. Any sudden drops should be noted with you driving condition. Also before starting the car, the battery voltage output should be 12.4 or higher.
Also consider replacing your ground strap to the engine. There’s a similar video on UA-cam with the same issues you’re having. He walks through how to check of that’s the issue.
I have a 2001 Honda Accord LX that is doing this. It started some time after I replaced the alternator. I thought it might be the battery but I had it and the alternator checked at Auto Zone and they said they were both fine. Could this be the issue?
Not surprised. If you go through some of my viewer's comments, they said I shouldn't have blown off the excess grease; that it was electrical insulation grease.
Ok so I have a questions guys I have a 2000 Honda accord LX 2.3L and I notice the brake light and alternator and door lights flickering while I drive the car then I accelerate or press the brake and they go off could this be the problem the electronic load detector going bad ???please help me thank you 🙏
Not sure if you still respond, but I have an ‘11 V6 Accord EX-L and i’m getting the battery light after replacing both the alternator and the battery. The alternator was first, replaced that and had no battery light for about 2 weeks, then recently my car died, so then we replaced the battery. Just yesterday I got the battery light again, and i’m wondering what you think it could be.
Well I went to the Honda dealer about the part... They told me I had to buy the entire fuse box. Can you tell me where else I can look to get that part?
The? Grease that you took off the back of those connectors is so. The copper does not corrode. And stop your connections. It's almost like no locks that you put on aluminum wire before you put it in a log in a panel
I have a 02 Acura RSX type S changed the alternator and battery checked all the wires and fuses everything seems to be fine the voltage is at a stable 11 but the battery light is still on.
So our h 04 honda pilot was fine we used 4 wheel drive for a short time and then the 4 wheel drive loght the sbs light and check engine lights were on and then lights started to dim like alt was going bad we replaced ut with a new one and the battery is new, it would crank if on jumper cables but would die after about 15 seconds . You can hear it slowly get weaker and shut off . We a red at a loss to what it is . When its hooked up to jumpers battery reads normal but drops when detached and altinater seems to read poor.
Could be a defective replacement alternator. Happened to me several times. You need to monitor the voltage of the car while driving. If it does not stay above 13 v (13.5 to 14.2 is normal), it's your alternator. Here' a link to a Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter amzn.to/2EABII9
I can't find this info anywhere. I have a 2007 Honda Crv and an OEM service manual and the circuit schematic shows that there is an eld but when I look to purchase one it says not compatible with 2007 only a 2006 or older.
hey..I have weird problem where my Honda Accord 2011 wipers, turn light indicator and wiper spray working without even turning them ON. It's weird. Please help.
can this happen when you hit the breaks or cause an alternator to fail.... getting a battery symbol randomly when breaking...... serpentine belt (around a month ago), alternator (a month or so old) and battery are all this year..........
Hell sir on my 2006 sion xa , I have changed alternator because of bearing noise , then also charged the battery all day , now battery light comes on after car warms up , then it try to suffocate like blocked exhust . I have changed the whole exhust system last summer , problem is engine try to stop , that is the time battery light comes on . please👌🙏🙌 guide me what to do . I realy thank you for your response . 🙏👌🙏
I’m having the on and off battery light problem. This came after changing the alternator and the battery are new. Almost when the light came on is on mornings and after like 20 minutes drive. Honda Pilot 2009.
@@hardlymovingpro yesterday we change the alternator. The light doesn’t come on but the voltage goes from 13.9 to 12.2 while driving. I’m using a Foxwell scanner (cheap one from amazon). Also I noticed that the voltage goes down when the AC is off.
i don’t have any codes, but when i am stopped on idle the battery light is on but when i drive it, it sometimes goes off. could it be the eld? just got new alternator 5 month ago. my car stalled as well. i’m guessing now i’m only running on the battery.
HELP WANTED, I got an si cluster and put it in my 99 EK hatch but my battery light is staying on at half brightness, with the key in the accessory position it lights up bright but once the car is started it loses half its brightness but stays on. everything works as it should. need some ideas as to what could be causing this. Batter light does not come on at all with original cluster.
I had to change the computer from my Honda Civic 2003 lx to a used computer and when I drive the battery light comes on but when the car is in park the light doesn’t come on then, also the mechanic changed the alternator but the light still comes on, some people think the problem is a ground but I’m not sure
It seems like you have a defective ELD. You can verify by getting yourself a simple cigarette lighter plug voltage display device (around $5) that displays the current voltage of your car as your driving or idling. Also, the quality of replacement alternators can vary. Some of these rebuilts go bad from the get-go which is one reason why I avoid some store brand rebuilts.
Same car aswell. My dad has changed the alternator 6 or 7 times the last time was good but then I noticed that my power steering might have caused it to die out again. But the light is still turning on and off. I need to replace it again.
I have the same issue 2005 Accord Hybrid. Battery light comes on and off. The Hybrid battery does charge and the car battery is brand new. Car has never not started. Does a failure of the ELD drop a code for scanning purposes? Current mechanic doesn't see any code? Trying to avoid a dealer visit.
Recently changed out a ELD on a 2002 Civic. The stored codes were P1297 and P1298 ... all ELD specific codes. I got around a half dozen used ELD's at the salvage yard. They look generic and you'd save around $30 - $50 by avoiding getting the replacement at the dealership.
Do not know the source of all that grease. Someone obviously had popped open and worked inside the fuse box based on a broken tab. At least I blew off most of it with compress air.
Its there on purpose! Dont clean it Its called dielectric grease Its for electrical connections.. Helps them connect better.. Also keeps all the water and moisture out of it so it doesnt short out
@@hardlymovingpro i changed the eld exactly like you did. Charged the battery, drove it, and it died. Battery light flickers, vsa, jumped it again and died again. But runs good when its running for a few minutes
please help my honda accord 2006 has problem; while driving at night my dashboard with the rpm and speedometer, headlights, radio turning on and off repeatedly every 2 to 3 seconds eratically. could it be bad ELD? I already checked the alternator and battery and its all good. Checked the grounds also and its fine. Please help!!! thanks
Hey I have the battery light always on, no codes nothing, we change the alternator and battery, I check all connections, do you think I can fix my problem if I change that part I can fix it,?
I checked the battery voltage with the voltmeter and it moved 13.9 to 14.2 while the engine is on. Well I will change the Electronic load detectors and I’ll let you know. Thanks 😺 for the response.
If you have the MIL code of 1298. Here's the link to what appears to be the part: www.ebay.com/i/392393551650?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=392393551650&targetid=1068323855270&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9013542&poi=&campaignid=11755693419&mkgroupid=112482247605&rlsatarget=pla-1068323855270&abcId=9300462&merchantid=131363253&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5KvouMLV7QIVSubjBx2EJASFEAQYASABEgI79_D_BwE
I don’t know if your still replying to this video but Hi I have a 2012 Honda Civic and when I go to start my car sometimes it won’t start and the battery light comes on. I usually turn it off and then on and it starts back up after 1-2 tries. It does not do this every time but it has happened more recently. I got the battery and alternator checked a month or two ago when it was happening and the man at auto parts said that they both looked completely fine and that the battery was fairly new. Do you think this is the issue or maybe something else?
Check the voltage output of your battery before you start the car. If under 12.6 (like around 12.4) it could be failing starter motor. Also try starting the car right after turned it off. That's when you have peak voltage in your battery. If it starts right up, but doesn't start in the morning - again - it's probably a weak, failing starter motor.
My honda CRV-2006 my problem is i replace a new alternator and Battery but the Battery indicator in dashboard are always ON. what would be the solution.
Start the car and check the voltage on your battery terminals. It should be outputting over 13.5 volts. If less then 13 and dropping, the alternator is probably no good.
I have a 2004 honda crv. Alternator was replaced twice, battery reading is over 13.5 volts, ELD device was replaced as well. Fuses are all good. I can't figure out why my battery light is still on...any ideas? My light started flickering a month ago, and would turn off when i reached a certain speed. I replaced the alternator 2x and i just have a permanent light on.
You have to monitor the voltage while driving the car. Get yourself on of those digital voltage displays that plugs into your cigarette/accessory plug/port.
At 1:25, find those connectors & clean them with the electronic cleaner. You have to rule out poor connections within the connectors & poor grounds. Gradually, oxidation layers forms due to chemical properties of Aluminum, copper & steel impeding flow of electrons causing fluctuations.
@@desi4lyfe379 unfortunately that did not fix the issue. i cleaned them off but they were already pretty clean. i also tried cleaning other wires but nothing works
Hello friend 🙋🤔🤗
After I replaced the AC compressor I got rid of what was damaging the belt .Then alternator bearing was singing & the battery light indicator came on also engine was shaking , I knew that throttle body was clean , because the leaky intake manifold . So finally I found the cause why battery indicator comes on after 10 minutes running , since the manufacture put the white grease inside the 3 wire ( red , blue & yellow ) plug , those grease was like a cement , so when the car shakes then the battery indicator light started on & off . after applying the yellow type battery cleaner on the pluge I cleaned so well then I put in the alternator .
as you remember you told me take the car to a garage , have them look at it . 😢 , no garage do not talk to me unless to leave it with them so the can make $ 300 up$ 500 . since I keep watching most of your awesome ❤👀 videoes , I did not give up or give in . At the age of 70 years old with the stroke & $ 780 a month SS payment & 2 college kid s & my wife income , I had to use the great knowledge of you the good one . I find the problems .
alternator = $ 40
intake mani = $ 55
AC comp = $ 285
2 can R134 a 2 can watch it by sight glass till no buble = $ 12
& A great patience & blessing of my LORD❤❤ for you & me
.the alternator repair plug if I get it in two days = $ 7: 29
Thank ❤❤ you for your great knowledge . 👌 🙏✟❤❤❤
I keep watching your videoes .
Thanks for sharing your story and glad it worked out for you!
Worked like a champ. It extinguished the intermittent battery light. I think I blew mine when I disconnected the alternator signal wire with the engine running. Drove it like that for a couple of months, no harm. Your video was spot on for my 2012 Accord V6. Thank you.
You bet!
@@hardlymovingpro I bet it wasnt the ELD. It was the connectors at 1:25. All you had to do was disconnect the battery & use electronic spray to clear the oxidation layer/corrosion. Copper, steal & aluminum don't go together.
@@desi4lyfe379 probably. Good thing that part was only seven bucks if it wasn’t that.
@desi4lyfe379 Currently having intermittent battery and dash lights. What should I clean in fuse box?
Thank you for the VIDEO!!!! BOSS! I just ordered an ELD for my 2010 Honda Accord EX-L Coupe. I had electrical issues for years that started with my whole dashboard burning out and had to get a replacement. Main Battery Fuse once went out too and had to replace it as well. I found out later on that when I bought the car it was rebuilt and the power cables were cut by the firemen when the original owner had an accident. Then the mechanic soldered them and put a metal screw zip-tie on it (crap job). Past last 3 years I had a battery icon come on randomly sometimes for 2-5-20 minutes, I've changed the battery twice, starter, alternator and finally last weekend the charging cables. The battery icon still comes on randomly (alternator is good 14+ charging and tested)...my only solution now would be this ELD. I will update this post once I do receive it and install it. Just wanted to let some people know if they had a similar issue in the past as me.
Thanks for sharing and let us know how it works out!
Update. So the new relay helped with the spikes and lows of voltage. Now I have a constant 13.8-14v 😀. My only issue is idk battery drain? Once my car is off the battery will got to 11-12v. Ill start the car and have the battery icon for few seconds then the alternator kicks in and all is good. I don't have anything connected just a dash cam that I disconnect every time the car is off.
Do an amp load test on your battery. I seen batteries with good voltage but low amps.
I’m praying this solves my problem. Alternator and battery recently replaced and I’ve had this issue. Thank you for the knowledge!
Good luck!
Was that the problem?
Hi John, did it resolve your issue? please let me know.
@@guillermoolvera1186 nope but trading my van in resolved it. It was becoming a money pit unfortunately.
@@guillermoolvera1186 thank you for asking though. My friend has this exact van so if she has any issues I'll start with this.
The grease is to keep moisture out of the electrical connections.
Good for all to know.
@@hardlymovingpro And you too since you apparently didn't know why someone did that. Obviously car lived in a rustbelt state at some point with a Mechanic that knew what he was doing and cared.
Yeah I'm not a mechanic and guessed that. I thought he was being fasheshus.
Omg! I've been searching for so long for why my battery light is on after changing battery and alternator! Thanks for this post!
You bet and now you know what to replace.
@@hardlymovingproi have a 2012 honda pilot and the battery light comes on and off . Could it be that same part ? Thank you
Don't know if you're still responding to this vid, but awesome explanation of the process. I just bought a 2009 accord coupe yesterday that has been garaged kept most of its life. This battery light just started coming on for around 20-30 seconds at a time then will disappear for several hours, before reappearing. Looks like I'm going to start at the lowest level and work my way up by trying this out first before messing with the alternator. Both alt & battery show good voltage when tested, so the issue for this light has to be something else.
You should test the voltage output at different rpms to check for consistent output.
Just replaced the Electrical load detector on 2011 Honda Pilot. the part cost me around $5 with tax, but the just required disconnecting, removing and disassembling the main fuse box on the right side shock tower. Not hard but tedious work. This is after replacing the alternator which I thought was failing cause of an intermittent flashing battery idiot light on the dashboard. Looks like it fixed the issue
Good news!
Wow, inflation is so bad, you said $5, but it's now $40 at Amazon in 3 years.
SO I had a similar problem. I replaced the alternator, battery and ELD..so why did my light go on again?
@@charleschenhua please tell me how did you find it in amazon
@@marissaaranas2537 OMG!!!
This is exactly what I need to do tomorrow. My IG-main and drivers side fuse box fuse is blown. It’s the long second one you pulled out. I didn’t know how to get it out until I saw this. 😊😊😊
Thank u 4 ur vid.
Good luck with the repair!
Thanks for posting this. 2007 odyssey new alternator, battery and belt one year ago. Today the battery light started coming on. Checked battery and alternator. Both were good. I had no idea where to go next until I stumbled across your video. Thanks
Glad to help!
@@hardlymovingpro hi mate I have same problem today I parked my car after 30 minutes won’t start I jumped batteries is work but when I change gear car is kicks and electronic shut off when I open lights car stopped I drove home stop and not start again? I think I have same problem my car Honda Accord 2008 v6 can you help me please
Did you change out the ELD?
@@hardlymovingpro no I didn’t change yet I’m looking for parts
@@hardlymovingpro hi mate today I changed batterie but stil same problem
2010 Accord LX 2.4 5-speed: This video caused me to replace ELD, which didn’t help. But I knew to leave the grease on wires. This didn’t fix my issue.
My dash battery light would flash on and off during the day but not at night or when lights were on, strange. My issue was a defective alternator I purchased from Advance auto which tested good along with battery. Curry Honda even tested it as good, saying I should get Honda alternator. They couldn’t really find the problem but the sure charged me $159 for nothing. My daughter helped me take alternator off and she noticed its pulley making a noise, so advance exchanged new alternator as defective. My light hasn’t flashed since we installed new advance auto alternator.
Yup. Rebuilt (clutched) alternators can be tricky in that they can fail intermittently.
Try this part ( Alternator Pigtail Harness Plug Connector )
lot of good info in the comments. I am replacing my 02 civic ex ELD today coz of intermittent battery light. new alternator and battery 6 mo ago which fixed the issue (light came on after getting off the freeway of a long 200 mile drive. stayed on unless i revved past 3200rpm while driving (another reason manual transmissions are just better in every way).
connected a cheapo bluetooth cigarette lighter thing that has a voltage reading on it. it shows 10 volts but ive read the battery itself and there is about a 1.5-2 volt difference. voltage in the car will show 10.1 (~12v) when battery light comes on, and then revving up shows ~11.3 (~13v) and battery light will go off. the strangest thing is that i found leaving the lights on even during the day makes the battery light go away and the voltage never drops below 11.1(~13v at the battery). this is what makes me think it is a slowly dieing or half dead ELD sensor/half blown fuse/crappy ground.
if you have a automatic civic i would suggest first getting rid of it and switching to manual. then try increasing the load on the charging system by turning different things on like fan, lights, radio(and volume up?), highbeams. i thinking this will cause a big enough draw for the voltage the alienator sees to drop below a threshold and start charging and maybe partially bypasses the ELD somehow. side note the AC does not use electricity from the charging circuit and instead is just a clutchpack that engages on the shared alternator belt. good for testing the tension of the belt especially when combined with power steering, but i dont think it would help diagnose this problem.
im probably too lazy to update this post like everyone else so I will only do so if this doesnt fix my problem. I think my troubleshooting explains why all these boomers think its a "random" or intermittent problem, nothing is random... youre just not observant enough
Think you have a bad alternator even if new. Voltage output of an alternator regardless of rpm's should be in the 13's
@@hardlymovingpro good to know ill double check it. it was like 13.5 i think when replaced. you know i cheaped out on a refurb
@@vevenaneathna Please let me know if you resolved the issue
@@guillermoolvera1186 hmm i got a new ELD and compaired the resistance across the pins in the back with an old and new one, and it seemed like my old one was "shot". reading like 1/50th the resistance as the new one. put it in and car instantly had a lot more power, ran really good after warming up. few days later its back to doing the same thing. I think it is the altinator afterall and is frying the ELD. Tried putting the battery on trickle charge for a day also and no dice. I think it also has something to do with a bad valve cover gasket? i saw some oil dripping down on the altinator from my engine, and it didnt seem to go inside of the altinator but who knows, some probably did, ive had a new start go out on another car from drippy oil, and an altinator is basically a starter in reverse.
Going to try and return the altninator to autozone since its only been 7 months, but im thinking since my problem is so nebulus the altinator might pass their "test". might just hit the pully with a hammer until she dont spin right to get a free one and make sure it doesnt end up back on the self for the next unlucky person. that or melt one of the wires around the stator. will update in a week or so when i have time to replace the altinator. was messing around with the tensioner and stuff hoping it was something like that. would probably help to do a tune up also (plugs, maybe wires, check their resistance cold a hot?, plugs atleast)
@@guillermoolvera1186 huh, ended up swapping the altinator as it was under warenty after all.stabalized the voltage a little bit at 0.1v higher, and maybe seemed to idle a tiny bit better. still all the same major symptoms. decided to rip out the electronic load sensor i replaced and double check resistances with volt meter. they showed the same values as when i put them in, about 10x OEM. frustrated i put the oem electronic load sensor back in, and bam problems with voltage drift minimized a lot. autozone sold me a garbage part, or it was one that someone swapped out and returned unscrupously. anyways the voltage still falls under 11v (no altinator charge) if there is no extra load applied like fan at low setting and/or parking lights. still feels like it had 15% power after warming up.
I noticed however the slower the piston speed/rpm, the less of an issue this was. ironicalyl the car would have more power in 5th gear struggling to try to get up a hill, or even was faster off a line in 2nd gear. I replaced my sparkplugs when i got it, maybe 60-70k miles ago now. i thought i had replaced them inbetween but i took them out and they looked pretty bad. regapped them in the dark using a pocket knife and it helped a lot but maybe made an exaust leak. had new NGK copper heads on order (3$ ea on amazon) and swapped those in a few days ago. the NGK sparks have a crush ring type thing that you torque down and i think is why it made the exaust leak worse when checking them. instant +50hp. very suprizing. idk if its coz i have the vtec coil overs and they burn thru sparks faster, or if im just used to iridiums lasting forever.
still probably needs a new electronic load sensor OEM, and im thinking there is an exaust leak from when my engine mount ffed off in half and the engine fell off lol... but its running a lot better now. mpg was down at like 20-25, and im hoping its a lot better now. ran some methanol fuel cleaner thru just for sacramental old car purposes.
Hello sir , I found the problem on my scion . It was AC compresor . It was a rebuilt , i bouht it $ 240 .3 years ago . Now we can drive it till some money drop from the sky😂🤣🌾🍀. Thank you .
Glad it worked out for you. That's the problem with no name brand rebuilds.
I realize this is a 5 year upload but maybe it'll still help someone.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord v6. Terrible electrical. Upgrade by doing what is called "big 3". I understand this is basically a audio upgrade but when I done this and nothing else.... I felt a huge difference in car performance. Make sure you get the OFC cables not the CCA. You'll be defeating the purpose.
Thanks for sharing!
Yes sir I just buy I 09 Honda civic for good price and that was exactly problem I change number 10 is working good now thx for this video
Great 👍and thanks for sharing your success story!
I have the same car I just changed my alternator and battery 2 times still battery light what should I do ?
Thanks for posting this. It helped me know where to start looking for the same issue I was having on a 2002 Honda Accord. Lots of older Hondas have the same or similar issue.
Glad it helped!
@abraham quilca - I’m looking to replace my ELD on my 2000 Honda accord V6. How hard was it for you to swap yours and did you notice improvement ?
Not hard. Just watch the video. It did fix the electrical problem.
@@hardlymovingpro Nice! I just picked up the part tonight
Good to hear @Dylan Robertson. Did you get it to work? Any issues, let me know.
Awesome video, helped me replace the ELD but that wasn't the culprit. Has new battery & new alternator. So bummed. Don't know where else to look on this 2004 crv. 😪
Check the voltage output of the car while driving. Could be a defective replacement alternator. Also check all ground connectors.
@@hardlymovingpro will check the ground. It shows that it's charging. Thanks
did you figure out any solutions? I have a 2004 crv and changed my alternator twice and the battery is in great condition. also replaced the ELD and nothing turns off the battery light..
I watched another video that saod his problem was the no.10 fuse located inside the vehicle.
@@p.maryyayabear7078 Hi Mary, thanks for sharing. In Odyssey there are two fuse boxes inside, in which one have to replace it?
This is so helpful. Do mechanics pick up on this, or do you need to tell them about it?
Thanks! Combination word of mouth and experience.
After trouble shooting. Test have to be done first that’s why you pay to diagnose.
Fixed the part and still have the issue. Good connections no loose wires. In stuck currently
Did you check the voltage output while driving? If inconsistent, could be defective alternator.
Thanks for the wonderful video. How could you exclude the alternator as being the malfunctioning cause of red battery light? You said in the video alternator and battery are working well
Yes...a sporadically malfunctioning alternator could be the cause; however, from my experience with bad alternators they are either working or not working (not sometimes).
One month we got an intermittent battery sign (not flashing), but it would stay on for a few seconds and come back. A few days later while driving all lights on the dashboard flashed on 2014 Odyssey and van almost died. We replaced the alternator. After 1-month similar battery sign is back. Tested both battery and alternator, both good. Honda dealer told us spool value is leaking oil but independent mechanic did not find leaks. Even if spool value is leaking can it destroy the alternator in 1 month ?
Yes it can. Oil getting on to the alternator via a leaking spool valve gasket will short out the alternator.
I don't think so
@@hardlymovingpro OMG!
After 2 new batteries and 2 new alternators, valve gasket cover replacement and solenoid valve replacement, I am sitting in a parking lot with a dead battery. I am financially broke for 17 days. I am devastated by this problem. Honda Odyssey EXL 2008.
What are the mechanics telling you? You may have a slow drain on you battery from something pulling current from your car when the ignition is off.
@@hardlymovingpro I agree. However, the 5th alternator was just installed yesterday. I think that I will have to take the car to the Honda dealership. Two guys from the park insisted on helping me and got under the hood, pulling fuses out, unplugging things and replugging them...now my alarm system has been disabled.
@@SignedOff402 Yup. You have to be careful with non mechanic types trying to help.
Buy an american car
Thanks for making this video, I had just a hard time to find a video on this for a Crosstour.
Thanks
No problem ...
From my recollection, the Crosstour is Accord hatchback so there shouldn't be that much of a difference with the sedan.
I guess I’m going to have to do this to my crosstour because it just started happening where the battery light will come on then go off and I just put a new battery and alternator in it so I will go to dealer and get that piece and put it in myself & see what happens
HollywoodTheDj please let us know if it fixed it! Such a headache!
Ben Nieeban .. Will Do I Just Brought The Purge Control Valve Today At The Dealer it was $138 so hopefully this will work!
Good clean work... Was that grease you cleaned off supposed to be there though? Like maybe dielectric grease or something you think?
Yea ... looks like sprayed on dielectric grease from the factory.
had a similar issue with my 2014 Accord, but only figured it out that it was the issue after it killed my alternator.
Live and learn.
@hardlyMovingpro did you have problems with dimming blinking dashlights and headlights?? i have a honda crv 2005 and have these issues, the voltage do not fluctuate like yours but it does changes while driving, last time i replaced alternator and battery it looked like it helped for a little bit but the issue came back again
Also don't forget if you have an electronic Throttle body...The light goes out when you drive it. Check the Throttle body plate location at idle or rest..It should read 3%
Good point!
Evening; My Name is Craig from South Africa, How to Detect a Dead ELD or How to Test or Check it?
As shown in the video, they're being erratic voltage output as you're driving the car.
Great video. Please help: I have a 97 Honda Accord that suddenly smelt of burned rubber while driving and the dash battery light came on. Got new battery and bought an Auto Zone rebuilt alternator to install. Car ran great and a/c was even colder for 30 minutes then, the dash battery light came on again. Mechanic did side eye when i told em i bought auto zone alternator and told me to request an alternator with higher amps because my car is fully electric. Installed 90 amp alt (1st was 80) and dash battery light came on again within 5 minutes of driving. Now, I noticed while parked the light does not turn on. But if I drive without anything on, the light comes on intermittently. If i drive and have either headlights or a/c on…light does not turn on and my voltage is 13.7 to 14.2. I’ve had the eld cel code few years back when I had to move fuse box to install upper control arm. But, i cleaned and played with eld connector and code went away. I have NO trouble codes now. But, intermittent dash light problem has me stumped. WHAT IS YOUR OPINION ON WHAT IT COULD BE?Please respond, I’d really appreciate it.
I have had a lot of failures with AutoZone remanufactured alternators. They're low quality IMHO.
Same issue Honda Pilot Touring 2011. Check charging system light on and off. This happened after alternator died. Replaced 2 alternators, 2 Batteries and now the ELD. Light still coming on and off. However, no performance issues.
Same thing with my 2009 Accord....
What ended up fixing it?
Combination of replacing both the ELD and the alternator. The rebuilt alternator was outputting inconstant voltage. Replaced with a remanufactured Denso OE (Original Equipment) alternator.
My LORD ❤ be with you sir
You bet!
My '07 Accord V6 original alternator died (squealing sound and then eventually some burning smell) before killing my battery in the process. The other warning was battery light stayed on the instrument panel and then eventually SRS and Airbag indicators kicked in as well.
I replaced the alternator and battery with some auto parts store parts (I know, I know, should have gone OEM). Starts up okay, drives okay but once the car is warm (after about an hour into my commute) the battery indicator will randomly come on and then off again. No Check Engine light and OBD2 scanner does not return any codes. I put it a 12V socket voltage meter and I noticed that when the battery light comes on the voltage reading will be at about 12.1V. The rest of the time at idle it will be around 12.5V/12.6V. If I turn on the rear defroster, roll up/down the power windows, etc., then the reading shoots back above 13.7V to 14.1V so at least the alternator is able to pump out enough juice. Does this mean the voltage regulator is good?
Did some Google searches and some say it could be the ELD. Any ideas??
If you bought a reman alternator, it could be the alternator clutch is not working properly. Here's a video on the subject:
ua-cam.com/video/LKqy0WrmFwo/v-deo.html
Great video, my battery light don't come on , i just get the , checking system . Its a warning . Ping , ping , check charging system .
I changed the alternator, new belt , battery was test . Good ....
I also put a test in the cigarette input ...goes from 12 to 14 , high rpm ..
What are you thinking it could be ? Eld part
Sounds like it's a ELD problem if erratic voltage output.
Is this the old version of a honda battery sensor? The newer hondas have a sensor right on the negative terminal
This video are for vehicles up to 2004 I believe.
I will have to get it done my honda accord crosstour 2014 having the same problem hopefully this will solve it and thx for the video regardless if my will work or not
Ok...let us know how it works out!
I just replaced it but it has got even worse maybe the positive and negative plug from the unit is the opposite? I will try tomorrow again
2005 Honda CRV does not have an ELD. But same symptoms. Do I need to replace the fusebox?
Check all your fuses
I have a 2011 pilot , I replace Alternator and the battery twice thinking that both are defective.
Light still coming on and off I'm tired of wasting money hope this video help me out to finally fixed thanks for posting.
Could be a defective replacement alternator.
Hi have you ever changed whole fuse box in honda or toyota. seems like it is not like you remove wire connector and swap , there are lot of wires we have to manually unpin most of wires, is that true, pls adivse.
No. Never replaced the whole fuse box.
Did this fix your problem of battery light going on and off? Im about to do my wife's car 😬
Yes it did for a little while. Then his alternator clutch went bad. Went through 2 rebuilt alternators until the customer got frustrated and agreed to purchase a OEM Denso rebuilt alternator. All electrical problems disappeared.
I have an 04 Honda accord LX , 2.4.
I replaced my ELD part # 38231-SDA-A01. I can't remember but does the center post facing downward, is there a connector that plugs into that post?
Not sure what your problem is but the ELD has an electrical connection point that you connect under the fuse box.
Thank you 🙏
My 2015 Odyssey has the same problem. Sometimes the battery light comes on while driving. When I turn the engine off and then start it again the light goes off. It has been off for a month, it came on today and then went off. Should I change the ELD? How can I know if it's bad? Is it okay to buy it from ebay?
Could be. Get one of those accessory port plug in volt meters and monitor the voltage while driving. That'll give you a clue if it might also be an alternator problem.
I'm having the same issue. Did you solve it? :/
@@arlesmaldonado5625 I changed the ELD but the problem was not solved
Could be a bad alternator
I have 2003 honda accord coupe v6 battery icon flashin....battery new and everything showing normal i was thinking maybe be alternater fuse what you think?
Bad alternator
Will a ELD cause the battery light to stay on when the car is off? 1990 Honda Accord
Don't think so.
This was very helpful. Thank you,
You bet!
VERY COOL. STRAIGHT FOWARD. THANKS.
You bet!
Yes! Thank you and all that good stuff.. buuuut…
Those pliers ?!? Custom job making them round at the point? Or a link perhaps please to the make and model of them suckers ! 🤝🏽
They're called hose pliers. A link is provided in this video's description.
@@hardlymovingpro Champion, thanking you 🙏🏻
"What's this grease" *proceeds to wash it away* lol i hope u put some back on. it's on the underside of the fuse box for a reason.. corrosion is the last thing u want in your fuse box
Way too much applied by the factory when compared to a Toyota
It's ment for nothing to get passed the connectors perfectly normal
While driving the car through a river?
@@hardlymovingpro you do that lol
@@hardlymovingpro You cant apply too much dielectric grease.
I have a honda accord 04 when I step in brake the battery light will flash on then go off. Wonder if this is why
Might very well be. Replacing the ELD is cheaper than the next fix; which is the alternator. Also check your battery connectors and the condition of the battery. If the battery is low, recharge it, clean and reconnect the battery connectors and monitor the voltage with the car running with a accessory port plug in voltage display meter. They're cheap ... less than $10.
Lol no dont just go replacing parts you dont even know are broken. First id check all your fuses and make sure they’re getting power.
My pilot battery light on and off. Is it alternator problem?. Or just change what u did?
Parts retailers can check the alternator condition
Honda Accord 2013 , it show warning msg check charge sys then show on dash board Battery ,Air bag , Abs , steering wheel powe get off and can’t accept accelerate pedal then car get off i don’t know if Battery sensor can do this or (Electronic Load Device)! Thanks
Pretty sure you may need a new alternator.
Would the ELD Prevent the car from starting? Or just the starter.
Battery lights been flashing intermittently but not at a steady consistent flash pattern, it may go on ---------- then off then on -off------ then on ----------------------- then off for like 2days.
Mean while all connections have been checked battery gets a full charge from the Alternator, battery is still in its prime. My guess is the starter could be going out on me. LMK what you think it could be
An ELD malfunction would result in sporadic electrical flow and don't believe it would effect the starter. Did you replace it?
Real good video I appreciate it very much can you tell me the name of the part
ELD (electronic load detector)
Thank you very much
God bless you
where do you get the lcd plug in thing.where did you plug it in at and whats it called?
It's a LED voltage display meter that plugs into your cigarette lighter or electrical accessory port. I provide a Amazon link to it in this video's "show more" section.
Did you use carb/air intake cleaner to clean connectors?
You can use that or brake cleaner in a aerosol container.
What are the symptoms that let you know this may be the issue?
Read this video's description area.
Lard-a-Mercy! My batt light and all doors ajar lights are constantly on, could it be the same module? typical Honda genius puzzle part!
Also check for any blown fuses in the engine fuse box
@@hardlymovingpro will do, thanks.
Hello HMB, I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey EXL. Yesterday all the lights came up on dash and battery went dead fast. I use it to work a taxi service. A mobile mechanic put another alternator on it.. everything check out good after he used his scanner.. my battery is good as well. After driving it about 20 miles yesterday, I parked it then woke up this morning and battery was dead again. He swapped alternator out for another and that alternator charged battery for a short while (but not at first) but after unplugging side plug from alternator and plugging back up, it starting working... but now battery dead again after driving it less than 10 miles... That's 2 new alternators and van is still doing same thing. Also he checked fuses and the ones he checked were good. Any tips would be great & much appreciated regarding what it could be. Maybe a fuse somewhere that people miss? Thank you
Could be a low quality rebuilt alternator. Had a similar problem years ago with AutoZone rebuilds. Customer agreed to install a new Denso OEM alternator. All problems disappeared!
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for taking the time to comment your input. I'm a US Navy Veteran and I depend on this taxi gig for majority of my income. Again..thank you for responding..
I have a 2004 Honda Civic Sir 2.0 and the battery light stays on. My alternator appears to be working based on 14.5V at the battery terminals when car is running. Based on your video, if I monitor the voltage and it fluctuates I should change the ELD. What was the crap you cleaned out of the bottom of the fuse box, and could that have been your problem? Is there a way to test the ELD before pulling fuse box out?
No real way to test the ELD outside of just replacing it. It's lithium grease, I believe, they use to prevent corrosion. Honda over did it IMHO.
hi Jd! did you figure out how to turn off the battery light. i have the same problem and have changed the alternator two times. battery is great as well
@@sylvestersroka8931 Sorry Sylvester, I had no luck. I bought a voltmeter and hooked it up to my lighter, at least I can monitor battery voltage
What if you change this out actually like you did and I'm still having the problem? Any suggestions?
Could be a defective rebuilt alternator. Monitor the voltage output while driving the car.
Hello i had an issue with battery light flashing on and off.Around 2 months ago my car lost power while driving so i got it towed because car battery cables didnt seem to help so i towed to mechanic was told needed alternator and belt so i got a new alternator and belt.I went to orailys to get a check on battery and said my battery was bad but the orailys employee also said to check diode thats what said on the battery pad what do you suggest before buying a new battery for honda civic 2000
Could be a defective rebuilt alternator that malfunctions sporadically. It's very deceptive. Get a cigarette lighter plug voltage display device (like what I used in the video) and monitor the voltage output while driving the car. Any drop into the 12v range is a bad alternator.
Where do I find this part don’t have it at any auto stores around me
Either the salvage yard, dealer or links provided in this video's description.
My emissions light and battery light are solid on
Very recently too I blew a fuse in my 2009 civic
Found the blown fuse and replaced it but didn't disconnect the battery first
Any suggestions?
Check all your fuses and perhaps your alternator is shot.
@Hardly Moving Productions thank you for the info
Honda CRV 2012 has been having a problem for about a year. The voltage drops to 12.6 when I turn on the lights or air conditioning
Start by replacing the ELD.
Could this cause erratic lights flashing AC won’t work nor will windows. I switched out battery because that was the first light to come on. Put new battery in there and it got worse.
Sounds like you have an alternator problem. Get one of those plug in voltage display devices for your accessory port to monitor the voltage output while driving.
Greetings I have a 2005 Honda Civic ex. I’ve replace the alternator and battery. Car ran fine for 2 days. But when I cut it off the last time it didn’t start. The radio and all the light came on but when I turn the key over and it did was click. After I got a jump it started drove for 2 minutes and the needle on the dashboard keep going up and down. Then it wouldn’t accelerate. Also the turning signals didn’t work either. First place said I needed a new alternator. But replace that and the battery. The second place I went to said I needed a new computer. Do you have any recommendations on what I should do next before replacing the computer? Thanks ahead
Get a accessory (cigarette lighter) plug in volt meter to monitor the voltage output while driving. While driving, the voltage should be 13.8 to 14.4. Any sudden drops should be noted with you driving condition. Also before starting the car, the battery voltage output should be 12.4 or higher.
Also consider replacing your ground strap to the engine. There’s a similar video on UA-cam with the same issues you’re having. He walks through how to check of that’s the issue.
Good idea.
Would a ELD cause no start? Like maybe it ends up being stuck in alternator shut off and therefore cant hold battery charge?
Yes ... I noticed it'll run down the battery.
I have a 2001 Honda Accord LX that is doing this. It started some time after I replaced the alternator. I thought it might be the battery but I had it and the alternator checked at Auto Zone and they said they were both fine. Could this be the issue?
Replace the ELD device and see what happens. Not too expensive of a part.
&k
Autozone workers are generally incompetent. Dont trust their testing that says pass. I have had broken alternators test fone when they were not.
BTW, My 2012 Accord had zero grease. Maybe has a better fuse box?
Not surprised. If you go through some of my viewer's comments, they said I shouldn't have blown off the excess grease; that it was electrical insulation grease.
Ok so I have a questions guys I have a 2000 Honda accord LX 2.3L and I notice the brake light and alternator and door lights flickering while I drive the car then I accelerate or press the brake and they go off could this be the problem the electronic load detector going bad ???please help me thank you 🙏
Yes ... could possibly be.
I have the same issue. I have replaced ELD,Alternator,Battery. Battery cables and fuses all checked out good. Voltage stays at 14.1 any ideas?
Not sure if you still respond, but I have an ‘11 V6 Accord EX-L and i’m getting the battery light after replacing both the alternator and the battery. The alternator was first, replaced that and had no battery light for about 2 weeks, then recently my car died, so then we replaced the battery. Just yesterday I got the battery light again, and i’m wondering what you think it could be.
Honda tech at dealership stated that cars with ELD problems come in a lot.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for the reply, much appreciated!
I have civic 2009. Dashboard and radio light disappear for 1 or 2 second also feels like car gonna switched off. What could be the reason.
Could be bad ground wire somewhere.
I’m having the same problem with mine but mine actually turned off on my twice already, I’m trying to figure out how to fix it😣
The ELD is a cheap part to replace and commonly fails over time.
Just replaced alternator on my 2012 Honda Pilot the charger system light still on and off could it be this problem?
Check the condition of your battery.
Never heard of the ELD some what difficult just to get one circuit
Neither did I until my customer's Accord began experiencing all these weird voltage output problems.
I love how u show us thank u
You bet!
Well I went to the Honda dealer about the part... They told me I had to buy the entire fuse box. Can you tell me where else I can look to get that part?
I got mine from the salvage yard. Plenty of Honda's to pick from.
The?
Grease that you took off the back of those connectors is so.
The copper does not corrode.
And stop your connections. It's almost like no locks that you put on aluminum wire before you put it in a log in a panel
Way too much dielectric grease for corrosion protection. You don't see it in Toyota's.
Can I drive for a few days while this is happening? Battery and alternator are fine.. got them checked. So I think this is my problem.
Just keep monitoring you battery voltage. A plug in volt meter is the way to go.
I have a 02 Acura RSX type S changed the alternator and battery checked all the wires and fuses everything seems to be fine the voltage is at a stable 11 but the battery light is still on.
Voltage should be above 12v with the engine off; engine on, over 13v.
So our h
04 honda pilot was fine we used 4 wheel drive for a short time and then the 4 wheel drive loght the sbs light and check engine lights were on and then lights started to dim like alt was going bad we replaced ut with a new one and the battery is new, it would crank if on jumper cables but would die after about 15 seconds . You can hear it slowly get weaker and shut off . We a red at a loss to what it is . When its hooked up to jumpers battery reads normal but drops when detached and altinater seems to read poor.
Could be a defective replacement alternator. Happened to me several times. You need to monitor the voltage of the car while driving. If it does not stay above 13 v (13.5 to 14.2 is normal), it's your alternator. Here' a link to a Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter
amzn.to/2EABII9
I can't find this info anywhere. I have a 2007 Honda Crv and an OEM service manual and the circuit schematic shows that there is an eld but when I look to purchase one it says not compatible with 2007 only a 2006 or older.
May have to get it from the dealer.
hey..I have weird problem where my Honda Accord 2011 wipers, turn light indicator and wiper spray working without even turning them ON. It's weird. Please help.
Check your relays.
2008 odessey...same issue...thank you soooo much
You bet!
can this happen when you hit the breaks or cause an alternator to fail.... getting a battery symbol randomly when breaking...... serpentine belt (around a month ago), alternator (a month or so old) and battery are all this year..........
Yes ... could be.
Hell sir
on my 2006 sion xa , I have changed alternator because of bearing noise , then also charged the battery all day , now battery light comes on after car warms up , then it try to suffocate like blocked exhust . I have changed the whole exhust system last summer , problem is engine try to stop , that is the time battery light
comes on . please👌🙏🙌 guide me what to do . I realy thank you for your response . 🙏👌🙏
I think you need to bring it to a full service auto repair shop.
@@hardlymovingpro HELLO SIR I FIX IT .👌🙏🙌 namaste🙏
I’m having the on and off battery light problem. This came after changing the alternator and the battery are new. Almost when the light came on is on mornings and after like 20 minutes drive. Honda Pilot 2009.
Could be a bad replacement alternator. Check voltage output while driving with accessory plug voltage display device.
@@hardlymovingpro yesterday we change the alternator. The light doesn’t come on but the voltage goes from 13.9 to 12.2 while driving. I’m using a Foxwell scanner (cheap one from amazon). Also I noticed that the voltage goes down when the AC is off.
i don’t have any codes, but when i am stopped on idle the battery light is on but when i drive it, it sometimes goes off. could it be the eld? just got new alternator 5 month ago. my car stalled as well. i’m guessing now i’m only running on the battery.
Could also be a defective rebuilt alternator. This why I buy name brand rebuilds like Denso, Delco, Remy etc.
@@hardlymovingpro that’s what i got denso oem
HELP WANTED, I got an si cluster and put it in my 99 EK hatch but my battery light is staying on at half brightness, with the key in the accessory position it lights up bright but once the car is started it loses half its brightness but stays on. everything works as it should. need some ideas as to what could be causing this. Batter light does not come on at all with original cluster.
Could be underperforming alternator
@@hardlymovingpro doesnt add up though because original cluster didnt that issue
have that issue*
I had to change the computer from my Honda Civic 2003 lx to a used computer and when I drive the battery light comes on but when the car is in park the light doesn’t come on then, also the mechanic changed the alternator but the light still comes on, some people think the problem is a ground but I’m not sure
It seems like you have a defective ELD. You can verify by getting yourself a simple cigarette lighter plug voltage display device (around $5) that displays the current voltage of your car as your driving or idling. Also, the quality of replacement alternators can vary. Some of these rebuilts go bad from the get-go which is one reason why I avoid some store brand rebuilts.
I have the exact same problem
Same car aswell. My dad has changed the alternator 6 or 7 times the last time was good but then I noticed that my power steering might have caused it to die out again. But the light is still turning on and off. I need to replace it again.
Với trình của bạn..tôi chỉ có thể tham khảo thôi..phải trực tiếp làm cùng và hiểu nguyên lý làm việc..và sự cố bắt đầu từ đâu .thanks bạn.🤙
Bạn nói đúng. Video nên được sử dụng làm tài liệu tham khảo cùng với hướng dẫn sửa chữa. Cám ơn bạn đã góp ý.
@@hardlymovingpro 👌😍👍
I have the same issue 2005 Accord Hybrid. Battery light comes on and off. The Hybrid battery does charge and the car battery is brand new. Car has never not started. Does a failure of the ELD drop a code for scanning purposes? Current mechanic doesn't see any code? Trying to avoid a dealer visit.
Recently changed out a ELD on a 2002 Civic. The stored codes were P1297 and P1298 ... all ELD specific codes. I got around a half dozen used ELD's at the salvage yard. They look generic and you'd save around $30 - $50 by avoiding getting the replacement at the dealership.
@@hardlymovingpro No ELD codes present. Honda shipping in AC/DC inverter (or converter)? to test. Sounds spendy?
Could be bad alt clutch.
I don't even own a Honda, but I'm curious why there was all that grease on the connectors :O
Do not know the source of all that grease. Someone obviously had popped open and worked inside the fuse box based on a broken tab. At least I blew off most of it with compress air.
Do not remove the Grease. it there to block dust to get in to the connector. its came from the manufacturer
@@hungnguyen-kp9bp Okay ... good to know!
Its there on purpose! Dont clean it
Its called dielectric grease
Its for electrical connections.. Helps them connect better..
Also keeps all the water and moisture out of it so it doesnt short out
Its call dielectric grease it keeps water and corrision out
Hey whats the spray your using to get the grease or stuff on?
Brake cleaner. Has acetone in it to dissolve oil and grease. Compressed air helps to evaporate it. You can then spray on lithium to relube.
@@hardlymovingpro thankyou and btw i orderd the part rn. Hopefully it works and will let you know
Good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro i changed the eld exactly like you did. Charged the battery, drove it, and it died. Battery light flickers, vsa, jumped it again and died again. But runs good when its running for a few minutes
please help my honda accord 2006 has problem; while driving at night my dashboard with the rpm and speedometer, headlights, radio turning on and off repeatedly every 2 to 3 seconds eratically.
could it be bad ELD?
I already checked the alternator and battery and its all good.
Checked the grounds also and its fine.
Please help!!!
thanks
Yes. I think it's the ELD.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you so much, hopefully it will solved the problem after replacing it. is this available on ebay?
Not expensive. Try the dealer
Hey I have the battery light always on, no codes nothing, we change the alternator and battery, I check all connections, do you think I can fix my problem if I change that part I can fix it,?
I'd say more than likely. Get one of those LED voltage display plug in devicea to monitor the voltage while driving.
I checked the battery voltage with the voltmeter and it moved 13.9 to 14.2 while the engine is on. Well I will change the Electronic load detectors and I’ll let you know. Thanks 😺 for the response.
but what was the error code so i can know for sure?
There is no error code.
Would this be the same for honda pilot 2012 ? I am having the same issues.
If you have the MIL code of 1298. Here's the link to what appears to be the part:
www.ebay.com/i/392393551650?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=392393551650&targetid=1068323855270&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9013542&poi=&campaignid=11755693419&mkgroupid=112482247605&rlsatarget=pla-1068323855270&abcId=9300462&merchantid=131363253&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5KvouMLV7QIVSubjBx2EJASFEAQYASABEgI79_D_BwE
Could also be your OAD. Here's the video link: ua-cam.com/video/LKqy0WrmFwo/v-deo.html
I don’t know if your still replying to this video but Hi I have a 2012 Honda Civic and when I go to start my car sometimes it won’t start and the battery light comes on. I usually turn it off and then on and it starts back up after 1-2 tries. It does not do this every time but it has happened more recently. I got the battery and alternator checked a month or two ago when it was happening and the man at auto parts said that they both looked completely fine and that the battery was fairly new. Do you think this is the issue or maybe something else?
You’re*
Check the voltage output of your battery before you start the car. If under 12.6 (like around 12.4) it could be failing starter motor. Also try starting the car right after turned it off. That's when you have peak voltage in your battery. If it starts right up, but doesn't start in the morning - again - it's probably a weak, failing starter motor.
Is there a torque spec for the suspension cross member?
Torque specs on the strut cross brace nuts not that critical. Just make sure they're on tight.
My honda CRV-2006
my problem is i replace a new alternator and Battery but the Battery indicator in dashboard are always ON. what would be the solution.
Start the car and check the voltage on your battery terminals. It should be outputting over 13.5 volts. If less then 13 and dropping, the alternator is probably no good.
did you figure out a solution? I have the same issue and alternator was replaced twice with a voltage over 13.5 volts
I have a 2004 honda crv. Alternator was replaced twice, battery reading is over 13.5 volts, ELD device was replaced as well. Fuses are all good. I can't figure out why my battery light is still on...any ideas? My light started flickering a month ago, and would turn off when i reached a certain speed. I replaced the alternator 2x and i just have a permanent light on.
You have to monitor the voltage while driving the car. Get yourself on of those digital voltage displays that plugs into your cigarette/accessory plug/port.
@@hardlymovingpro ah ok, thank you! what range is good to see on the display and what is not good to see?
At 1:25, find those connectors & clean them with the electronic cleaner. You have to rule out poor connections within the connectors & poor grounds. Gradually, oxidation layers forms due to chemical properties of Aluminum, copper & steel impeding flow of electrons causing fluctuations.
@@desi4lyfe379 unfortunately that did not fix the issue. i cleaned them off but they were already pretty clean. i also tried cleaning other wires but nothing works
Min 12.4 v engine off; around 13.4 v to 14.2 engine running.