I have looked at the smaller version in the past but I am uncertain how well such a “flat plate” pre-heater would work when dealing with populated double sided PCB’s such as a laptop PCB. The bottom side components would hold the PCB away from the heater plate. My preheaters all use either hot air flow (from below) or Infra Red radiant heat (from below). Those are not affected by the components mounted on the bottom side of the PCB. It would be interesting to see how well this unit works on a multi layer laptop PCB that has large components in contact with the preheater plate (creating a small stand-off from the actual PCB). An interesting product for sure but if they had incorporated a matrix of air holes in the heater plate and (or option for) a small (low flow) air pump, it would be more versatile. This is what PACE did on their plate type preheater. Thank you for the review Sorin 👍👍
@@orange11squares thank you. That is what I feared so I did not buy the previously released small version. Most of the PCB’s that I work on are high component density double sided types. I use mainly Infrared preheating these days. For single sided PCB component harvesting, such as SMD LED’s on aluminium composite PCB’s I bought a Chinese Aluminium plate type PTC heater unit with fixed temperature. It works surprisingly well for $7 !
Would definitely come in handy for COB LEDs. 🤔😊 Though spending 120 € for it... I don't know. I could get myself a 5/10 € regular portable kitchen single plate cooker & use it. 🤔😕🙄
If it works by conduction of heat then limited by shapes and positioning of parts on board, right? What if there's a big lot of parts on the underside?
@@andrewwturner true, cheers and in his live coffee chat today Sorin suggested to use a silicone thermal pad to fill spaces when needed for better conduction
I just got one of these a couple days ago. I found that if I use USB-C with a 100W GaN Rocoren PD charger it will continuously reboot. If I use a 60W cable, or force the 100W cable to 3Amp (so 60W) it runs fine but at lower wattage so much slower to heat up of course. Also runs fine using the DC port at over 120W. I'd be interested in hearing from others that have used this product with 100W USB-C cable and power source as to what worked or didn't. Thanks.
@@lupuslab I switched to a Satechi 165W and it works fine except it is still lower power than what the barrel adaptor can provide. However, I saw recently there is a new firmware coming that allows for more USB-C power.
Can you really use something like this with phone boards? I mean those boards are packed with components on both sides, and you can't stuff a side full of ICs and metal cans towards the hot plate can you?
Nobody knows which is the best option to choose between the aluminum and brass versions? I want to buy one and I'm leaning towards the aluminum version... I've read that it heats up faster and more evenly... I'd be curious to see a benchmark when the fan cools both plates... I deduce the aluminum version cools down faster?
Pretty sure that wouldn't work properly. You'd basically just create hot air (in a very ineffective way), plus putting more stress on the components (and potentially their solder connections).
If its melting solder on the top side then its surely melting it on the bottom. Since he didnt mention anything about that I wanted to see if there was any import. @@Smaxx
Oh, wow, didn't know I wanted something like this (didn't even know it exists). I always tried to avoid SMD soldering (even if just reflowing single pins), but this makes it look like a breeze.😮
This device has been around for some time but is mainly used for flex repairs as a soldering iron can often burn through the flex cable. It is also used on TVs to repair the backlight LEDs that come on this long stripe.
I have their smaller version and I'm sorry I bought it. If you solder a lot of boards with no components on the other side, then it works well, but usually there's some reason you can't lay it on the heat plate. I just mask off areas and use hot air.
This time we have something nice, it's always nice, Sorin 🤣🤣🤣 because we get a video 👍
Brilliant review that looks sick I will get one for sure, thanks Sorin😊
I have looked at the smaller version in the past but I am uncertain how well such a “flat plate” pre-heater would work when dealing with populated double sided PCB’s such as a laptop PCB. The bottom side components would hold the PCB away from the heater plate. My preheaters all use either hot air flow (from below) or Infra Red radiant heat (from below). Those are not affected by the components mounted on the bottom side of the PCB. It would be interesting to see how well this unit works on a multi layer laptop PCB that has large components in contact with the preheater plate (creating a small stand-off from the actual PCB). An interesting product for sure but if they had incorporated a matrix of air holes in the heater plate and (or option for) a small (low flow) air pump, it would be more versatile. This is what PACE did on their plate type preheater. Thank you for the review Sorin 👍👍
this is not for double sided pcb, unless you want to destroy all.... you can use it only if there is no components under the part that you work on.
@@orange11squares thank you. That is what I feared so I did not buy the previously released small version. Most of the PCB’s that I work on are high component density double sided types. I use mainly Infrared preheating these days. For single sided PCB component harvesting, such as SMD LED’s on aluminium composite PCB’s I bought a Chinese Aluminium plate type PTC heater unit with fixed temperature. It works surprisingly well for $7 !
This device is mainly used for flex cable repairs and TV backlight LED repairs. It's another tool for those specific applications.
I used to do the same thing with the cloths iron the only issue it take longer and u need to put it o a kind of support
Would definitely come in handy for COB LEDs. 🤔😊
Though spending 120 € for it... I don't know. I could get myself a 5/10 € regular portable kitchen single plate cooker & use it. 🤔😕🙄
Great method ! I'll be sure to try that next time I have a connector to replace.
If it works by conduction of heat then limited by shapes and positioning of parts on board, right? What if there's a big lot of parts on the underside?
I think the idea is to use low melting point solder. Sorin mentioned 140 degrees. That way, you don't reach the melting point of other components.
@@andrewwturner true, cheers and in his live coffee chat today Sorin suggested to use a silicone thermal pad to fill spaces when needed for better conduction
i made one by myself with a straightener, and work fantastic to replace smd components
A hair straitener?
yeap sure, but only the resistors connected directly to 110v with a dimmer to lower the temp...@@BasicComputerRepair
Smart
Very nice, another tool in the bag, Thanks!
Thats a great product!! Great! Thx Sorin!! ☺
Thank you for your review.
I like sorin because he give you pure honest information you are the best.
Damn, now I need to buy it, I have MHP30 but this one looks really nice.
I just got one of these a couple days ago. I found that if I use USB-C with a 100W GaN Rocoren PD charger it will continuously reboot. If I use a 60W cable, or force the 100W cable to 3Amp (so 60W) it runs fine but at lower wattage so much slower to heat up of course. Also runs fine using the DC port at over 120W. I'd be interested in hearing from others that have used this product with 100W USB-C cable and power source as to what worked or didn't. Thanks.
you might want to check if the USB C wire itself is rated for 100W (or not)
@@davidkeng4374 definitely was 100W cable. Tried 3. I since bought a new 165W charger and it works fine.
I have the same problem. With my 120W phone charger from XIAOMI, the MHP50 reboots, when I turn on the heating. With DP port, it works perfect.
@@lupuslab I switched to a Satechi 165W and it works fine except it is still lower power than what the barrel adaptor can provide. However, I saw recently there is a new firmware coming that allows for more USB-C power.
Can you really use something like this with phone boards? I mean those boards are packed with components on both sides, and you can't stuff a side full of ICs and metal cans towards the hot plate can you?
Maybe now you'll show us a successful CPU replacement... Just for the show! Between 2 similar spare motherboards from your pile...
Nobody knows which is the best option to choose between the aluminum and brass versions? I want to buy one and I'm leaning towards the aluminum version... I've read that it heats up faster and more evenly... I'd be curious to see a benchmark when the fan cools both plates... I deduce the aluminum version cools down faster?
Very nice tool. Iv seen it before. I’m wondering how this works if you have components on both sides.
Pretty sure that wouldn't work properly. You'd basically just create hot air (in a very ineffective way), plus putting more stress on the components (and potentially their solder connections).
If its melting solder on the top side then its surely melting it on the bottom. Since he didnt mention anything about that I wanted to see if there was any import. @@Smaxx
you can do it only on unpopulated areas underside, the smaller one may be better in this case
Oh, wow, didn't know I wanted something like this (didn't even know it exists). I always tried to avoid SMD soldering (even if just reflowing single pins), but this makes it look like a breeze.😮
This device has been around for some time but is mainly used for flex repairs as a soldering iron can often burn through the flex cable. It is also used on TVs to repair the backlight LEDs that come on this long stripe.
I have their smaller version and I'm sorry I bought it. If you solder a lot of boards with no components on the other side, then it works well, but usually there's some reason you can't lay it on the heat plate. I just mask off areas and use hot air.
For double sided PCB's, does it damage the PCB itself?
this tool only can be used for oneside type of mainboards
What sort of camera equipment are you using that lets you zoom in so quickly and accurately?
Greetings from Mexico 🎉 nice working sorin but video it’s blackout
Damn. I didn't even know this was an option!
Sorin, too hot and you kill your magnet!
I can't wait you using it phone board repairs
Which camera you said that you have??
Can you cook sarmale with it? If you can't I am not interested.
nice i love the tool
Awesome tool!!!👍
Please please, make a video about yourself that how you have become a Hardware Technician???
Thanks
very nice tool!
Can you try it with PS5 HDMI connector and see if it can desolder the connector? or make pancake on it :)
Great for mobil phone repair.
you might as well cook noodles on it 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
DAS CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!
9592 Macey Parkways
very nice
Wow!
thay are quite expensive to buy
Why not try an actual board....hmmmm.
woow .. and what you do when you have underfill ... ohh .. its useless .. domage ! but nice tool to have around still ..
in real works, no..sorry
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣