The pcb is made from paper(cheaper then fiber glass), that's why it burns so easily. Also the board is wave soldered so all the parts glued to the pcb, that's why it wont came off easily. Google for phenolic pcb, wave soldering for more info.
The board suffered from popcorning because you didn't preheat it. This problem occurs when a lot of temperature is used very quickly, but it usually happens inside the chips that trap the air. That board is not multilayer (except for the surface layers), which is why the air trapped in the porous material expanded and burned from the inside. It has never happened to me because I have always used a soldering iron to repair the PSU. You can avoid thermal shock from the board using a preheat temperature in a range of 100 to 150 °C for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the thermal mass.
Quick tip: If you have a short that can be measured by a capacitor, just find the GND line of that capacitor and add 1V to it, to it's GND and VCC pads (that's why you need to find the GND of it first, you probably can find it with an electrolytic capacitor that tells you the GND line) and start to add current with your power supply, start with 3Amps and rise, and see if something starts to heat up. 1V will not cause any issue since you have a short, also the voltage will drop significantly because of the short so it'll not even be a problem and it will be good enough to heat up the faulty component.
4:24 That red thing is the glue they use on the production line mainly to solder THT components (and smd as well), that's why you had many issues removing that component. They glue those smd and they wave solder the board so components don't fall. You should have poke it from the side while unsoldering it. Btw, the amount of heat you added (burnt) will week the traces and they might end up failing. Also that diode next to it will not survive much. Also based on the amount of burn, your PCB is now carbonized, which will conduct current :\
I've always wanted a hot air gun for de/soldering chips as some people make it look so easy, but after watching that, I know I'd do the same and wreck more than I fix :)
microsolderinglab he probably used 400c. 280-300c should be enough to take the chips out. But he is using a cheap hot air station, not good regulation on this 60€ stations.
Hey I have the exact same ps4 slim, the powers supply is shot. I want to know what the voltages are on the acin_det and acdc_stby. I want to try and power the ps4 to see if it will even turn on. Thanks, great video as always
Power supply boards are often made out of phenolic, rather than fiberglass. (Single-sided boards that are tan on one side are a good indication.) They burn faster than fiberglass.
The red stuff is pcb component adhesive so they can place the component with a P&P machine then go through a reflow oven with dual sided pcb component being done all at once... There is a possibility that the board delamination is becuause its such an unpopulated area & surface lifted because theres not enough copper to dissipate the heat🤔
should just use that board to learn how to remove bits off that type of board without burning it. Try different methods such as adding lead or heating up the area etc.
Hi Please help me!!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏 My PlayStation got zapped through the internet port But now it won't turn on it just beeps once and that is all Pls help how can I fix it???
Do you not see that red stuff under each component ? It's glue so that why you destroyed the board....you must use something before to break that glue, or force the components out of there after the solder melts...the tweezers don't have enough grip to break the glue and if you put heat on the PCB until the glue melts well...that mess happens.
you know how to take that off without burning the board is to use quik chip removal kit. since the chip is removed he forgotten top remove the short on the pins before testing
Hi Vince the 1612A3 is a Enhanced, High‐Efficiency Power Factor Controller the link will give a little more info www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NCP1612-D.PDF
there was a song by Crazy world of Arthur Brown, "FIRE" which has iconic intro that seems to be fitting the situation with the PSU after the fault finding here. Yes you are right its not gonna be used but maybe thing of using the same methods you did in the past - shield the board from excess heat, use short bursts and try to be careful. The entertainment value is obviously increased by the fact that it looks like it was in war but i do wish you used already presented methods of heat dispersal and shielding more often.
That "blackened" spot under the diode is actually glue. It is used to fix the components to the board before wave-soldering.
yep thats why it took to long to get them up and over heated the board.
You need a DC power supply so you can inject a current limited voltage into the board, the faulty part will get hot and make it easy to find
This is what I subed for, you destroying boards and not knowing what your doing
The pcb is made from paper(cheaper then fiber glass), that's why it burns so easily. Also the board is wave soldered so all the parts glued to the pcb, that's why it wont came off easily. Google for phenolic pcb, wave soldering for more info.
So they SONY are penny pinching by busing cheap PCBs
The board suffered from popcorning because you didn't preheat it. This problem occurs when a lot of temperature is used very quickly, but it usually happens inside the chips that trap the air.
That board is not multilayer (except for the surface layers), which is why the air trapped in the porous material expanded and burned from the inside. It has never happened to me because I have always used a soldering iron to repair the PSU.
You can avoid thermal shock from the board using a preheat temperature in a range of 100 to 150 °C for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the thermal mass.
Great troubleshooting! 👍
Thanks Paul :-)
My favourite channel. Keep up the good work vince!
Quick tip: If you have a short that can be measured by a capacitor, just find the GND line of that capacitor and add 1V to it, to it's GND and VCC pads (that's why you need to find the GND of it first, you probably can find it with an electrolytic capacitor that tells you the GND line) and start to add current with your power supply, start with 3Amps and rise, and see if something starts to heat up.
1V will not cause any issue since you have a short, also the voltage will drop significantly because of the short so it'll not even be a problem and it will be good enough to heat up the faulty component.
4:24 That red thing is the glue they use on the production line mainly to solder THT components (and smd as well), that's why you had many issues removing that component. They glue those smd and they wave solder the board so components don't fall.
You should have poke it from the side while unsoldering it.
Btw, the amount of heat you added (burnt) will week the traces and they might end up failing. Also that diode next to it will not survive much.
Also based on the amount of burn, your PCB is now carbonized, which will conduct current :\
I've always wanted a hot air gun for de/soldering chips as some people make it look so easy, but after watching that, I know I'd do the same and wreck more than I fix :)
Well, that was a hot mess, but in the end you got it sorted.
Use lower heat you burn pcb with no reason, you can use and low melt solder 138C° and take the chip easily 💪 keep going
microsolderinglab he probably used 400c. 280-300c should be enough to take the chips out. But he is using a cheap hot air station, not good regulation on this 60€ stations.
The FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER LOL #ElectroBOOM
Haha I thought that too :D
I Can't wait for Another, Marcel's Lots of the PSP's, Cause the PSP's are the best system.
Hey I have the exact same ps4 slim, the powers supply is shot. I want to know what the voltages are on the acin_det and acdc_stby. I want to try and power the ps4 to see if it will even turn on. Thanks, great video as always
Power supply boards are often made out of phenolic, rather than fiberglass. (Single-sided boards that are tan on one side are a good indication.)
They burn faster than fiberglass.
Ahhh watching this In a hot tub is a treat
I hope you have some kind of vacuum hood, because those smokes aren't the healthiest ones!
It wasn't the solder holding the components in place, they are all glued down.
hy sir,please say, DAP 046 has equivalent ?and if so, what goes in his place?
The red stuff is pcb component adhesive so they can place the component with a P&P machine then go through a reflow oven with dual sided pcb component being done all at once...
There is a possibility that the board delamination is becuause its such an unpopulated area & surface lifted because theres not enough copper to dissipate the heat🤔
What heat setting are you using on your hot air station? The board really shouldn’t burn that easily unless the heat is too high.
should just use that board to learn how to remove bits off that type of board without burning it. Try different methods such as adding lead or heating up the area etc.
Why didn't you test the large capacitors on the left top of the power supply board? It is common for caps to short in power supplies.
That smt glue to help keep the components stuck to the board make it harder to remove components
Obligatory like and comment 😊. You already know about the glue by now 😂
Hi
Please help me!!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏
My PlayStation got zapped through the internet port
But now it won't turn on it just beeps once and that is all
Pls help how can I fix it???
Hi vince do you still sell cables etc, as your eBay shop on website doesn't seem to be available, cheers
Do you not see that red stuff under each component ? It's glue so that why you destroyed the board....you must use something before to break that glue, or force the components out of there after the solder melts...the tweezers don't have enough grip to break the glue and if you put heat on the PCB until the glue melts well...that mess happens.
At least those are problems. Its possible that there is more problematic components and reason why those did fail. Impossible to say.
Nice one!
Oh man!!! What a horrible desoldering even if you don't care about the pcb. 🙁🙁🙁
I wonder what that board was made from as it is not capable of taking the heat.
you should still try to fix it
you know how to take that off without burning the board is to use quik chip removal kit. since the chip is removed he forgotten top remove the short on the pins before testing
what is adp-160er and 160cr difference?
Wick tape is better to unsolder smd diodes and small solder iron. You fried pcb.
Hi Vince the 1612A3 is a Enhanced, High‐Efficiency
Power Factor Controller the link will give a little more info www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NCP1612-D.PDF
try 275 Celsius next time works great
vine thir is a brige off solder at bottom
💯🔥
Wait
there was a song by Crazy world of Arthur Brown,
"FIRE"
which has iconic intro that seems to be fitting the situation with the PSU after the fault finding here.
Yes you are right its not gonna be used but maybe thing of using the same methods you did in the past - shield the board from excess heat, use short bursts and try to be careful.
The entertainment value is obviously increased by the fact that it looks like it was in war but i do wish you used already presented methods of heat dispersal and shielding more often.
Hi nice job bye
#Desoldering with a #flamethrower? /s
I bet you wish you wrote this
roasting turkey
There not much more chips you can take off
Hi
maybe not use a heatgun and learn to use soldering iron.
Aku dulu punya ps3 kena power suplay sekarang ps4 kena juga sony emang gak awet