Great idea thanks! Hey I've made a mistake and forgot to mark the actual belt at the crankshaft before taking off the old timing belt. I did Mark both the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys and lower timing cover and top of the head with a TDC line is period however I forgot to mark the actual belt where it lines up at top dead center down below at the crankshaft. I've already taken everything off and ready to install the new kit but I need a heads up on how to correct this so I get the exact TDC lineup and don't blow my motor?! Please help me! Thanks Brian
The lower bracket you mention at 40:40 - the three bolts that secure it to the bolt are not stretch bolts, they get torqued to 45Nm. The bolts for the upper mount however, that connect to the car body and the two bolts that connect this upper mount to the lower bracket are torque to yield and they do need to be replaced.
Best step by step video!! Thanks for making this, it was a life/$$ saver. Replaced timing kit on a 2003 GTI 1.8t this video made it a walk in the park.
Nice job. I'm about to buy a 2001 TT roadster just like the one you are working on, and it needs a new timing belt. Your video will help me a lot. Really appreciate the tips, especially the stretch bolts for the mounts. I've done several timing belts on other Audi/VW cars, and this looks similar. But, the complexity added from that mount is crazy. At least there's no service position required.
Great video, using those marks on the old and new belt is a great idea. That works just like plated links on most timing chains that manufacturers provide. Fantastic tip.
Great video. Avoid the water pump with the plastic impellers like the plague, they work lose on the drive shaft and intermittently overheat your motor until the impeller falls off and the motor overheats constantly. In this video, it is more likely a faulty thermostat stuck shut. This is common on the Mk1 TT 225 engine, sometimes the stat sticks open too and the motor never reaches temp (fault P1296 if memory serves me correct) as some garages use cheaper none Audi thermostats. Get a good thermostat that opens at 82 degrees C and you will be fine. Also, use deionized water with the correct antifreeze added or you will end up with the same problem a month or two down the line! Been there with both the overheat and the under heat, fit a good quality thermostat and a pump with a steel impeller! Use a green temperature sensor too. When replacing the thermostat it is wise to buy a new plastic oil dip stick as old ones go brittle and snap, also if replacing the water pump replace the cambelt (do both these at the same time, false economy not to) Then you are set to drive another 40,000miles without issue!
@@marcooconnor my plastic impeller was loose on the shaft and rotated slower than the shaft it was on which made it overheat. I race these motors on track days and several other racers have had same problem. Never had a metal impeller cone off the shaft and as for leaking, why should a metal shaft on a plastic impeller leak less than a metal shaft on a metal impeller? It doesn’t! leak unless it’s fine 60,000 miles plus! The bond between the plastic impeller and the metal comes lose, the weld between the metal impeller and shaft doesn’t, that’s the only difference. I’ll stick with metal impeller pumps on my race cars as they are reliable.
@@Rythecarguy I don't ever want to deal with that passenger side motor mount as long as I live. It somehow is just perfectly in the way ALL of the time. It was all I could do not to heave it far into the desert when it finally came off. Timing belt and water pump were a breeze. As far as putting back together, I thank you again as this video was great to refer back to and see steps from earlier as a resource for re assembly. I'm sure you get zillions of questions, but I'm going to ask and hope for a suggestion. I bought the car at an auction so I don'y have any history. I have a 99 A4 Quattro 2.8 so I knew better. But even with high mileage, it was in such amazing condition I took a risk and bought it. Luckily I was able to get it cheap. The radiator was leaking so I replaced. Even after it was acting up. Driving it would cause it to overheat at the water tank. Temp inside would spike all the way up then go back to middle, even though it was still boiling at the plastic tank. Strangely there was no heat and when I opened the release valve at the radiator, the water ran out cold while steam an bubbles came out of resivoir. I read about water pump issues so that was my next step and replaced the water pump/timing belt. I was discouraged to see the old water pump looked fine, and as the impeller was metal I was obviously replaced at sometime. The timing belt looked fairly new as well. Before I re assemble I was thinking I should just replace the thermostat and temp sensor. I also read that air in the lines might have caused the issue. Im just cautious as I dont want to keep throwing $$$ at it and find out it is a cracked block or head gasket. The oil is clean by the way, no sign of moisture. 2001 Audi TT Quattro 1.8T 230k miles 5 spd
It would be nice if you comment on the wear of the pump and idler puller that you replaced, and if possible, your perceived quality of the replacement parts. While those components should be replaced with this service, it gives insight into general quality of particular components, and may determine what brand of parts you buy in the future.
UPDATE: All put together, added coolant and changed oil. Started right up. Ran and turned on heat and it started to get warm. Hooked a hand pump on return hose on top, pumped till ran with no bubbles. Put cap on resivoir and drove for 3 miles. Heat turned cold and gauge went to 3/4 hot and I brought home. Overheating at resivoir but when i open drain valve at radiator, it runs out cold. ??? could it be bad thermostat, or is it possible the new radiator came with some sort of plugs that i neglected to remove? Other than that it runs great!
Excellent video with no nonsense step by step instructions. I just got a Jetta with the 1.8t for a project. I hope I don't need to do this job but if I need to this will be an indispensable resource.
Hey Ry, love your video. Quick question. I changed my timing belt and water pump and I checked and rechecked and checked again on lining up the marks on the belt but I'm still throwing a P17748 which I suspect I'm off a tooth. I have to go back in there and readjust the belt, how can I make sure 100% that the belt is lined up perfectly? Thanks in advance.
Great job! Is It necesary to replace all the bolts of the engine bracket? Do they need to be the original vag spare or ones with same metrics? Thank you!
Yes you need to buy stretch bolts for that mount. They are one time use. Do not go by ones that will just fit from the hardware store you need to buy them from Volkswagen. If you buy regular bolts they could sheer and the mount could break.
Good video! but i have a question. Is that marking on the belt to the pulley really necessary? as long as you don't turn the engne around while the belt is of it would not be a problem or am I wrong? or is it just for safety
Hey so do we know the torque specs for the engine mount bolts, I’m hearing conflicting things online and was wondering if you knew what you did at the very wlast
Very Well Done!! How would you go about installing the new belt without placing marks on it. I am concerned the my belt is worn and has skipped teeth causing my engine to misfire.
No, I assume it’s a pain? The issues is not just the Audi. It’s a countless other German cars that have all been designed horribly. I can only conclude that they all suck.
Just a helpful FYI, I've found myself needing to support the engine on more than one occasion, and we bought an "engine support bar" from HF, its the bar you mentioned early in the video. Its $80, and we've used it a dozen times on my friend's BMW and my TT.
Ugg. Haven't been on the tube for a while. They had problems with a plastic water pump impeller melting so if doing a replacement may as well make sure it is metal.
My question is, when I was going to pull off my timing belt, I lined the crank up with the notch, but the cam notch looked like how you had it before you moved it to tdc, do I need to move it (the cam gear only) to get it lined up before i swap belt?
I just met a strange mechanic guy who recommended me to put a 25w60 oil to my a3 2003 turbo with 120k miles. How would that type of oil work? Do you think it will affect its fuel consumption?
I had less space on the side when changing the belts and stuff. 225hp roadster. First removed the cooling reservoir. Took of the belt without bolt in tensioner by shifting the belt to the side on the crankshaft and the camshaft, and could almost easy shift is away from the waterpump. when assembling, is placed the belt on the marks, and just pulled the pin, everything was fine. My waterpump had broken fan, I assumed that already, by bad working car heater. also took away some hoses for fuel and cooling to get more space. Just get out of the way everything what is easy to do, it saves time after all. This was my first Audi TT belt change, have done 3 other type of cars before, and it took me about 5 hours of work, in my home garage. The most difficult for me was 1 of the motor bracket bolt, and 1 of the bolts for the tensioner, really no space there. Thanks or this great video.
I have one question. I've read that the manual recommends replacement at 105,000 miles, but a lot of people say they commonly fail around 60,000/70,000. Mine has 67,000 miles and the belt looks ok to me. Any advice? Thanks.
Honestly, Timing belts are one of those things where you cant be too careful. If it were a non interference motor it would not be the end of the world to have it fail but in these types of motors it could be the end of the car if it fails. If you inspect it and it seems at all fatigued or cracked I would swap it out.
What is the recommended timing belt change interval for Audi TT 1.8T models? The most recent factory recommend interval is 75,000 miles. Some older scheduled Maintenance Service booklets reference a 105,000 mile timing belt service schedule interval. However, according to the most current manufacturer service schedule information, the interval has been updated to 75,000 miles. Some contend that when Audi wrote "105,000 miles" in the manual it should have read KM, or approximately 75,000 miles. Google it for more info.
So at the time of this video the timing belt was about 16 years old? In the UK a dealership would have recommended to replaced that belt 4 times by now.
@@Rythecarguy They were lucky leaving it for 150K and all those years, my tensioner on my Mk1 S3 went at 80K. Luck of the draw, plus driving habits I guess.
@@Rythecarguy I think the tensioner was revised later on so I guess that model was a bit better than mine, basically its done 2x the miles and time (as mine went after 8 years) and its still going! Bet the belts never snap much, its probably mostly the hydraulic tensioner failing from old oil seals.
The hole in the piston on my tensioner was turned sideways. I didnt find that out until the pin wouldnt go in with the tensioner compressed all the way.I just left the piston compressed all the way with the bolt and loosened the tensioner pulley. As i was nearing the end of the threads on the bolt holding the tensioner pulley on i thought maybe the piston would fly out of it's housing but it didnt. Must have a stop inside of it. Pulley came right off. Old tensioner piston came up and stopped. Just an fyi if you get in that situation and dont want to mess with trying to turn the piston so the hole lines up....
I will say that this car definitely had a timing belt replaced before. It wouldn’t have made it to 150k on its original belt and water pump that is for sure but you are also definitely right in replacing it when you did. I understand the interval to be 65k or 5 years.
We have a 2005 (was built by Audi in late 2004) and had just 71k miles. Other day at 45mph, the timing belt broke. For sure some valves are bent. Question, should I replace timing belt , start car and see if it runs ok, before I take off head (if need be) ? Q: Why did you leave all those air hoses intact ? I might add: DO NOT BUY these models UNLESS you have a WARRANTY ! (period).
Hi i also have a Audi TT 1.8 Turbo 180hp. its a 2006 mark 1...with only 35,000 from new. I'm having trouble with it now really loud noise coming from engine, possibly belt or tensioner ..thing is i bought it from a dealer who replaced the timing belt and water pump at 28,000 (as these cars are notorious for the belts going early).Any ideal why it could be the belt, if not what else could it be? I'm not mechanically minded unfortunately. Also the plastic upper belt guard (same one as the guy on here has removed) is moving all over the place..don't know why. The metal clip nearest front fits on but the rear clip attaches to nothing, where is this supposed to go? There seems to be nothing to attach it to. Finally the belt does seem to have some tiny (really minute)bits fraying, this doesn't look good, although the belt looks in good condition. Can it be driven to a garage ok or will this be a thing not to do./ I have driven it the other day and apart from noise its ok. When slowing the noise is worse. Thanks for any help. regards...from England.
Hi i also have a Audi TT 1.8 Turbo 180hp. its a 2006 mark 1...with only 35,000 from new. I'm having trouble with it now really loud noise coming from engine, possibly belt or tensioner ..thing is i bought it from a dealer who replaced the timing belt and water pump at 28,000 (as these cars are notorious for the belts going early).Any ideal why it could be the belt, if not what else could it be? I'm not mechanically minded unfortunately. Also the plastic upper belt guard (same one as the guy on here has removed) is moving all over the place..don't know why. The metal clip nearest front fits on but the rear clip attaches to nothing, where is this supposed to go? There seems to be nothing to attach it to. Finally the belt does seem to have some tiny (really minute)bits fraying, this doesn't look good, although the belt looks in good condition. Can it be driven to a garage ok or will this be a thing not to do./ I have driven it the other day and apart from noise its ok. When slowing the noise is worse. Thanks for any help. regards...from England.
I have a 2001 Audi TT 1.8 l turbocharged, replaced thermostat, radiator, and coolant reservoir, and after where could find coolant air bleeder ? Heater could not get hot while running 20 minutes after it seen warm and why ? Where is damn coolant air bleeder? it looked to me that it was locked up air gap stuck ? Thanks for understanding anyone could reply this asp ...
It has a 168,500 in odometer reading and just wonder heater core or heater core pipe with seal might be worn ? Leaking air vacuum caused air gap locked ? My finger touch as felt air vacuum inlet ...
what do u mean to get a 5x55 bolt that didnt make any sense to me I'm still struggling getting the belt in 4 days and I've about taken a match to this pos
he's using a 5mm in length, M5 bolt that goes into the tensioner and pushes on the piston. The bolt allows you to push the tension off the pulley so you can relieve the tension and remove the belt.
I think as I’ll be going to do this job myself, I need a week to do completely for my TTQ Mk1 Btw thank you I know your video will help me i appreciated
Thanks for sharing... I have a mechanic that says he can change my timing belt and water, ect for $250.00 I would just have to buy the parts at $125.00 does it sound about right? I dont know much about install. thank you sir
The camshaft is on the top off the engine, you are talking about the crankshaft below the engine. I'd like to see you use a floorjack on the camshaft :p
Yea, sometimes I misspeak. I was pretty pissed doing that job TBH the “German engineering” always equates to a horrible time working on their cars. Could not wait to dump that thing.
Good job man good video that's the only video we watch while replacing the timing belt 👌👍👌👍👌👍 just need to know the engine mount bolts torque spec. Thanks
you want to slide the belt the same way it came off, its extremely hard to align a new belt without the markings, its not timing related just makes life easier.
So that momnet at 17;30...well that's different on my motor. The guard is made up of two seprate parts, the circular one covering the pulley, and the upper part of the guard retaiined by three bolts. That second one will not under any circumstance come free. It's trapped by thr alternator belt tensioner. Even in it's relaxed position it overlaps the guard enough to prevent it coming free. The prospect of removing the tensioner looks like the only way forward!!!
Your going to drain coolant , why not do 1st ? Then remove the coolant reservoir. More room too work . Same with the hose above, loosen up towards the front and pull towards the back. That time spent seems too be time saved working around them.. imho
After watching this, I will be removing that coolant tank first. I just hate having to fight against some piece of crap while fiddling around in tight spaces.
@@Rythecarguy BTW I'm an adman. I was one of the first in the UK to drive the TT c1998, it was on a business trip to the factory in Ingolstadt, Bavaria. Most of my TV ads were for Quattro. I've also been to the Ford factory in Detroit where I met Mrs Ford. This got Silver at Cannes... ua-cam.com/video/iKmYq0eaN8U/v-deo.html
Any reason for removing the bolts to the valve cover? Excellent video describing the process. I once took apart a Ford C4 automatic transmission and as I went through the disassembly, I lined up each assembly/part, from left to right, along the wall and placing the disassembled components in baggies. For reassembly, I took the disassembled parts and worked from right side to the left side for reassembling. Of course, when you have a new part to install, use the new part . I recall the first reassembled part was a thrust washer that was provided in various thicknesses depending on wear. I asked a transmission guy what thickness washer I should use for a car with so many miles on it. The transmission guy simply handed me a thrust washer and said, "Use this one." The transmission shaft thrust washer worked fine. And the transmission worked fine, too. I don't think I could have succeeded if I didn't organize the parts.
I really appreciate that you did this video, but you just completely skip the hardest part of this job, installing the tensioner with the engine mount bracket in the way. I'm about ready to just set this thing on fire and be done with it.
Sorry about that, yea, TBH I ended up hating that car. I just put a video out about the top 5 worst cars I have ever owned and I put the TT in the number 1 spot.
@@Rythecarguy For me, it's a perfect balance between performance and comfort. Glides along like a dream on the highway, but digs in when you get into boost exiting a corner, smiles per gallon and all that.
Ry the car guy I assume, when putting it all back together. You needed to lower and raise the engine again to get to the bolts of the engine mount?and to fill the engine coolant. Do you just close the bottom valve and full in coolant tank?
I need help! Please!! :D Well I changed the timing belt, water pump, tensioner on 2000 audi tt. And after starting the car twice the Check engine light came on. Code reader said it is: ( p0301= cylinder 1 misfire detected) P01340 (crankshaft and camshaft sensors signals put of sequence) Car doesn't show any issues starting or engine performance. It sounds and acts just like the way it did before replacing the parts. I put new spark plugs, and switched ignition coils from 1 cylinder to 4. Check engine light came back on, I had checked out again and still telling me. cylinder 1 misfire. I checked all conector they look fine. Any ideas or suggestions ? Anyone experienced this issue before? Please tell me what you think might be. thank you!
Did you just replace the belt or did you get a kit, if you reused the tenioner pulley there is a chance that it could have skipped a tooth somehow. And that could be putting it off just out of what the cam sensor is set to read. If you haven't tried a new cam sensor I would try that first though I'm pretty sure they're in a decent spot to get at I could be wrong. But If the guy making the video gives you the answer go with his first lol. The only other thing I could even think would be a stretched timing belt somehow
Zip tie the belt to the cam while reinstalling to keep the belt from slipping. Makes life easier if you dont have someone helping you
Genius
Great idea thanks! Hey I've made a mistake and forgot to mark the actual belt at the crankshaft before taking off the old timing belt. I did Mark both the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys and lower timing cover and top of the head with a TDC line is period however I forgot to mark the actual belt where it lines up at top dead center down below at the crankshaft. I've already taken everything off and ready to install the new kit but I need a heads up on how to correct this so I get the exact TDC lineup and don't blow my motor?!
Please help me!
Thanks Brian
You are the man and on this day you are my you tube mechanic 💯
Thanks! Glad to help. 💪🏻
THANK YOU for telling people about the stretch bolts. Everyone misses this.
Of course, if you dont get those replaced there can definitely be problems. Just annoying how expensive they are.
The lower bracket you mention at 40:40 - the three bolts that secure it to the bolt are not stretch bolts, they get torqued to 45Nm.
The bolts for the upper mount however, that connect to the car body and the two bolts that connect this upper mount to the lower bracket are torque to yield and they do need to be replaced.
hey ..about that How do you know this,,, is it in the service manual?
Best step by step video!! Thanks for making this, it was a life/$$ saver. Replaced timing kit on a 2003 GTI 1.8t this video made it a walk in the park.
Nice job. I'm about to buy a 2001 TT roadster just like the one you are working on, and it needs a new timing belt. Your video will help me a lot. Really appreciate the tips, especially the stretch bolts for the mounts. I've done several timing belts on other Audi/VW cars, and this looks similar. But, the complexity added from that mount is crazy. At least there's no service position required.
Great video, using those marks on the old and new belt is a great idea. That works just like plated links on most timing chains that manufacturers provide. Fantastic tip.
👍🏻💪🏻😎
Great video. Avoid the water pump with the plastic impellers like the plague, they work lose on the drive shaft and intermittently overheat your motor until the impeller falls off and the motor overheats constantly. In this video, it is more likely a faulty thermostat stuck shut. This is common on the Mk1 TT 225 engine, sometimes the stat sticks open too and the motor never reaches temp (fault P1296 if memory serves me correct) as some garages use cheaper none Audi thermostats. Get a good thermostat that opens at 82 degrees C and you will be fine. Also, use deionized water with the correct antifreeze added or you will end up with the same problem a month or two down the line! Been there with both the overheat and the under heat, fit a good quality thermostat and a pump with a steel impeller! Use a green temperature sensor too. When replacing the thermostat it is wise to buy a new plastic oil dip stick as old ones go brittle and snap, also if replacing the water pump replace the cambelt (do both these at the same time, false economy not to) Then you are set to drive another 40,000miles without issue!
This advise is outdated , metal impellers are likely to leak. The OEM plastic implellers are the ONLY recommended ones to use.
@@marcooconnor my plastic impeller was loose on the shaft and rotated slower than the shaft it was on which made it overheat. I race these motors on track days and several other racers have had same problem. Never had a metal impeller cone off the shaft and as for leaking, why should a metal shaft on a plastic impeller leak less than a metal shaft on a metal impeller? It doesn’t! leak unless it’s fine 60,000 miles plus! The bond between the plastic impeller and the metal comes lose, the weld between the metal impeller and shaft doesn’t, that’s the only difference. I’ll stick with metal impeller pumps on my race cars as they are reliable.
Just removed my metal OEM water pump with the T belt
It was leaking but had 65K in it tho and the engine was used hard
So far, this's the best D.I.Y. that I'm watchin'... step by step... thank you bro! Now I feel safer to do that!!!
Thank you for the best video here on You Tube. That was by far the most confident I have felt repairing anything so far on this evil little car.
Evils a good word for it! Glad it worked out man.
@@Rythecarguy I don't ever want to deal with that passenger side motor mount as long as I live. It somehow is just perfectly in the way ALL of the time. It was all I could do not to heave it far into the desert when it finally came off. Timing belt and water pump were a breeze. As far as putting back together, I thank you again as this video was great to refer back to and see steps from earlier as a resource for re assembly. I'm sure you get zillions of questions, but I'm going to ask and hope for a suggestion.
I bought the car at an auction so I don'y have any history. I have a 99 A4 Quattro 2.8 so I knew better. But even with high mileage, it was in such amazing condition I took a risk and bought it. Luckily I was able to get it cheap.
The radiator was leaking so I replaced. Even after it was acting up. Driving it would cause it to overheat at the water tank. Temp inside would spike all the way up then go back to middle, even though it was still boiling at the plastic tank. Strangely there was no heat and when I opened the release valve at the radiator, the water ran out cold while steam an bubbles came out of resivoir. I read about water pump issues so that was my next step and replaced the water pump/timing belt. I was discouraged to see the old water pump looked fine, and as the impeller was metal I was obviously replaced at sometime. The timing belt looked fairly new as well.
Before I re assemble I was thinking I should just replace the thermostat and temp sensor. I also read that air in the lines might have caused the issue. Im just cautious as I dont want to keep throwing $$$ at it and find out it is a cracked block or head gasket. The oil is clean by the way, no sign of moisture.
2001 Audi TT Quattro 1.8T 230k miles 5 spd
It would be nice if you comment on the wear of the pump and idler puller that you replaced, and if possible, your perceived quality of the replacement parts. While those components should be replaced with this service, it gives insight into general quality of particular components, and may determine what brand of parts you buy in the future.
Gates have VERY good timing belt kits
UPDATE: All put together, added coolant and changed oil. Started right up. Ran and turned on heat and it started to get warm. Hooked a hand pump on return hose on top, pumped till ran with no bubbles. Put cap on resivoir and drove for 3 miles. Heat turned cold and gauge went to 3/4 hot and I brought home. Overheating at resivoir but when i open drain valve at radiator, it runs out cold. ??? could it be bad thermostat, or is it possible the new radiator came with some sort of plugs that i neglected to remove? Other than that it runs great!
Excellent video with no nonsense step by step instructions.
I just got a Jetta with the 1.8t for a project. I hope I don't need to do this job but if I need to this will be an indispensable resource.
Thanks man, these things run on belts, If you Jetta is anywhere near needing it done you should knock it out.
What if I just want to make sure it’s in time how do I check that?
Hey Ry, love your video. Quick question. I changed my timing belt and water pump and I checked and rechecked and checked again on lining up the marks on the belt but I'm still throwing a P17748 which I suspect I'm off a tooth. I have to go back in there and readjust the belt, how can I make sure 100% that the belt is lined up perfectly? Thanks in advance.
Great job! Is It necesary to replace all the bolts of the engine bracket? Do they need to be the original vag spare or ones with same metrics? Thank you!
Yes you need to buy stretch bolts for that mount. They are one time use. Do not go by ones that will just fit from the hardware store you need to buy them from Volkswagen. If you buy regular bolts they could sheer and the mount could break.
Good video! but i have a question. Is that marking on the belt to the pulley really necessary? as long as you don't turn the engne around while the belt is of it would not be a problem or am I wrong? or is it just for safety
Correct
thanks man, got my TT 4 days ago, Great condition but for the leaky water pump. saved me big bucks. i will use the vid for the service. thanks again
+Brendan McCreanor nice! I hope you enjoy it. Mines in such bad shape that I have not been able to drive it since i bought it. Some day though!
+Brendan McCreanor at least you will all get a lot of videos out if it. Haha
Great vid! I just replace the timing belt on my Jetta 1.8T...Oh boy, I had such hard time with that engine mount.
Yea, what a pain!!
very good description of all the troublesome finicky parts removal and install to complete
Thanks!
Dude how did you get the stud to stay and push down on the tensioner..
Good video. I am having the same trouble with my 2003 jetta t. Is this the same? Was told that particular year was different.
Hey so do we know the torque specs for the engine mount bolts, I’m hearing conflicting things online and was wondering if you knew what you did at the very wlast
Very Well Done!! How would you go about installing the new belt without placing marks on it. I am concerned the my belt is worn and has skipped teeth causing my engine to misfire.
on ur timing tensioner with the nut n bolt how does it push down??? ride it under the timing pully
Nice tutorial....How many hours does it take to complete this job?
Oh gosh, im sorry. I don’t remember. It’s been so long.
Thanks for your video. One thing... your complaint about german engineering. Have you ever changed a serpentine belt on a pontiac grand am?
No, I assume it’s a pain? The issues is not just the Audi. It’s a countless other German cars that have all been designed horribly. I can only conclude that they all suck.
@@Rythecarguy
You have to remove the engine mount. They do, no matter of engineerings origin...🤘
Just a helpful FYI, I've found myself needing to support the engine on more than one occasion, and we bought an "engine support bar" from HF, its the bar you mentioned early in the video. Its $80, and we've used it a dozen times on my friend's BMW and my TT.
Why don't you remove the coolant reservoir while working on the motor?
I would also put some rags in the spark plug holes and oil filler hole.
Im doing an 01 tt quattro water pump now. Great job on the video! Ordered the metal impeller. Had overheating issues. Thanks for doing this.
What is metal impeller ..
Is this part relates to a 2001 Audi TT turbocharged? What year you had the Audi and model ? Thanks
@@davidlogue9638 he's talking about the back side of the pump there is plastic or metal impeller factory is plastic
@@1pcsmits thanks 👍🏻
Ugg. Haven't been on the tube for a while. They had problems with a plastic water pump impeller melting so if doing a replacement may as well make sure it is metal.
This is fantastic! not many Audi tt Video's!! Very thankful to you. I am gonna get a friend to help me with this :)
I'm glad you like them. There are a lot more to come!!
cringed when he rotated the engine from the cam gear. never, I repeat, NEVER do that again
Its fiiiiinnnnneeeee
@@Rythecarguy if the head is off its okay......
Pain5k Can you tell us what the correct procedure would be then? Thanks!
@@peterrichardsphoto rotating from the crank
I am trying to buy a timing kit
How would I determine the version (C, T or X) of the Bosch Motronic SFI Electronic FI MFI?
My question is, when I was going to pull off my timing belt, I lined the crank up with the notch, but the cam notch looked like how you had it before you moved it to tdc, do I need to move it (the cam gear only) to get it lined up before i swap belt?
Cam pulley is probably installed backwards
I just met a strange mechanic guy who recommended me to put a 25w60 oil
to my a3 2003 turbo with 120k miles. How would that type of oil work? Do
you think it will affect its fuel consumption?
How’d you pull serpentine tensioner off without relieving the tension?
This is going to save me so much money. Thank you.
My pleasure!
after watching this I'm just going to sell the car.
It's a huge pain. But not worth getting rid of the car for lol
I’m just going to set fire to my TT mk 1
I had less space on the side when changing the belts and stuff. 225hp roadster. First removed the cooling reservoir. Took of the belt without bolt in tensioner by shifting the belt to the side on the crankshaft and the camshaft, and could almost easy shift is away from the waterpump. when assembling, is placed the belt on the marks, and just pulled the pin, everything was fine. My waterpump had broken fan, I assumed that already, by bad working car heater. also took away some hoses for fuel and cooling to get more space. Just get out of the way everything what is easy to do, it saves time after all. This was my first Audi TT belt change, have done 3 other type of cars before, and it took me about 5 hours of work, in my home garage. The most difficult for me was 1 of the motor bracket bolt, and 1 of the bolts for the tensioner, really no space there. Thanks or this great video.
What if my timing is off by a tooth already? Would making the marks at TDC still keep it in time?
Very good video thanks. This looks like the 2004 Audi TT engine not the 2001. The throttle body is on the wrong side for 2001.
I have one question. I've read that the manual recommends replacement at 105,000 miles, but a lot of people say they commonly fail around 60,000/70,000. Mine has 67,000 miles and the belt looks ok to me. Any advice? Thanks.
Honestly, Timing belts are one of those things where you cant be too careful. If it were a non interference motor it would not be the end of the world to have it fail but in these types of motors it could be the end of the car if it fails. If you inspect it and it seems at all fatigued or cracked I would swap it out.
What is the recommended timing belt change interval for Audi TT 1.8T models? The most recent factory recommend interval is 75,000 miles. Some older scheduled Maintenance Service booklets reference a 105,000 mile timing belt service schedule interval. However, according to the most current manufacturer service schedule information, the interval has been updated to 75,000 miles.
Some contend that when Audi wrote "105,000 miles" in the manual it should have read KM, or approximately 75,000 miles. Google it for more info.
So at the time of this video the timing belt was about 16 years old? In the UK a dealership would have recommended to replaced that belt 4 times by now.
I’m sure they recommend it over here too. The owner just didn’t do it LOL.
@@Rythecarguy They were lucky leaving it for 150K and all those years, my tensioner on my Mk1 S3 went at 80K. Luck of the draw, plus driving habits I guess.
Truth, honestly I think luck has a lot to do with it. I can say that my TT was driven like hell LOL.
@@Rythecarguy I think the tensioner was revised later on so I guess that model was a bit better than mine, basically its done 2x the miles and time (as mine went after 8 years) and its still going! Bet the belts never snap much, its probably mostly the hydraulic tensioner failing from old oil seals.
did you set the timing before you took the dampener off? Set to 0 I mean
Nope, just marked the belt and sprockets
The hole in the piston on my tensioner was turned sideways. I didnt find that out until the pin wouldnt go in with the tensioner compressed all the way.I just left the piston compressed all the way with the bolt and loosened the tensioner pulley. As i was nearing the end of the threads on the bolt holding the tensioner pulley on i thought maybe the piston would fly out of it's housing but it didnt. Must have a stop inside of it. Pulley came right off. Old tensioner piston came up and stopped. Just an fyi if you get in that situation and dont want to mess with trying to turn the piston so the hole lines up....
Good video but FYI never rotate an engine from the camshaft always the crankshaft!! I cringed
Yo is that kit compatible with a 2000 model audi a3 1.8 turbo and where can I buy the hydraulic tensioner by itself?
I will say that this car definitely had a timing belt replaced before. It wouldn’t have made it to 150k on its original belt and water pump that is for sure but you are also definitely right in replacing it when you did. I understand the interval to be 65k or 5 years.
👍🏻
We have a 2005 (was built by Audi in late 2004) and had just 71k miles. Other day at 45mph, the timing belt broke. For sure some valves are bent.
Question, should I replace timing belt , start car and see if it runs ok, before I take off head (if need be) ? Q: Why did you leave all those air hoses intact ? I might add: DO NOT BUY these models UNLESS you have a WARRANTY ! (period).
Hi i also have a Audi TT 1.8 Turbo 180hp. its a 2006 mark 1...with only 35,000 from new. I'm having trouble with it now really loud noise coming from engine, possibly belt or tensioner ..thing is i bought it from a dealer who replaced the timing belt and water pump at 28,000 (as these cars are notorious for the belts going early).Any ideal why it could be the belt, if not what else could it be? I'm not mechanically minded unfortunately. Also the plastic upper belt guard (same one as the guy on here has removed) is moving all over the place..don't know why. The metal clip nearest front fits on but the rear clip attaches to nothing, where is this supposed to go? There seems to be nothing to attach it to. Finally the belt does seem to have some tiny (really minute)bits fraying, this doesn't look good, although the belt looks in good condition. Can it be driven to a garage ok or will this be a thing not to do./ I have driven it the other day and apart from noise its ok. When slowing the noise is worse. Thanks for any help. regards...from England.
Where is the best place to order the stretch bolts from?
For that type of stuff I would go straight to Audi/VW.
You could have put th4 new tensioner and pulley and timing belt on then put the engine bracket on by jacking the engine up 4 to 5 inches.
doing this job on a passat tomorrow, straight mount engine, gotta remove the front end for another job so this should be a cake walk
Hi i also have a Audi TT 1.8 Turbo 180hp. its a 2006 mark 1...with only 35,000 from new. I'm having trouble with it now really loud noise coming from engine, possibly belt or tensioner ..thing is i bought it from a dealer who replaced the timing belt and water pump at 28,000 (as these cars are notorious for the belts going early).Any ideal why it could be the belt, if not what else could it be? I'm not mechanically minded unfortunately. Also the plastic upper belt guard (same one as the guy on here has removed) is moving all over the place..don't know why. The metal clip nearest front fits on but the rear clip attaches to nothing, where is this supposed to go? There seems to be nothing to attach it to. Finally the belt does seem to have some tiny (really minute)bits fraying, this doesn't look good, although the belt looks in good condition. Can it be driven to a garage ok or will this be a thing not to do./ I have driven it the other day and apart from noise its ok. When slowing the noise is worse. Thanks for any help. regards...from England.
I think I’m done for. 2/4 bolts on the big pull @ 15:50 are stripped.
wow professional and intuitive video very nice work thanks...
I have a 2001 Audi TT 1.8 l turbocharged, replaced thermostat, radiator, and coolant reservoir, and after where could find coolant air bleeder ? Heater could not get hot while running 20 minutes after it seen warm and why ? Where is damn coolant air bleeder? it looked to me that it was locked up air gap stuck ? Thanks for understanding anyone could reply this asp ...
It has a 168,500 in odometer reading and just wonder heater core or heater core pipe with seal might be worn ? Leaking air vacuum caused air gap locked ? My finger touch as felt air vacuum inlet ...
evening boss how are you I just wanted to ask a little help on you I want to change my Audi A3 1.8 L engine to 2litre engine
must I also change the long and the computer box
When you put the white paint marks on the belt, write TOP on the top face of the top of the belt at the cam pully
Good idea!
what do u mean to get a 5x55 bolt that didnt make any sense to me I'm still struggling getting the belt in 4 days and I've about taken a match to this pos
he's using a 5mm in length, M5 bolt that goes into the tensioner and pushes on the piston. The bolt allows you to push the tension off the pulley so you can relieve the tension and remove the belt.
@@hermitagetechnologychester278 I bought a m5 I cant get it to work on it man this lil car is fighting me the whole way lol
Saved me $1,100 today good man. Thanks for taking the time to film and post this video. Much respect.
I think as I’ll be going to do this job myself, I need a week to do completely for my TTQ Mk1
Btw thank you I know your video will help me i appreciated
You're welcome. Thank you for watching.
All the marks can be found on the metal components. Yes?
+scientes vos yes
What is the point of marking the belt?
By the way, this is the best vid on Audi TT timing belt change I've seen. Good Job.
+scientes vos thanks!
+scientes vos it ensures that the belt and pulleys are in the exact same position as they were when you pulled the old one off.
Excellent thanks for the steady explanation of each step
You're welcome. Thanks for watching,
Thanks for sharing... I have a mechanic that says he can change my timing belt and water, ect for $250.00 I would just have to buy the parts at $125.00 does it sound about right? I dont know much about install. thank you sir
No one will do this job for twice that amount
@@SydneyChromatic ... I appreciate it.
was this done on the audi tt 225 bam engine
1.8l
Is that oil pan welded up ?!
Would be surprised, that car was a mess for real.
The camshaft is on the top off the engine, you are talking about the crankshaft below the engine. I'd like to see you use a floorjack on the camshaft :p
Yea, sometimes I misspeak. I was pretty pissed doing that job TBH the “German engineering” always equates to a horrible time working on their cars. Could not wait to dump that thing.
What size hose was that used to drain anitfreeze?
+Bryan Stark I'm sorry but I don't know. It was just a piece that I had lying around
Good job man good video that's the only video we watch while replacing the timing belt 👌👍👌👍👌👍 just need to know the engine mount bolts torque spec. Thanks
Great video man..Good to see your back!!
Great instructions young man, couldn't wish for better :)
Thanks so much! I appreciate you.
What if ur timimg belt is seized in the block
Why the need for the markings on the belt? As long as crank and cam are in time it doesnt matter right?
+Thomas Fooij correct, I just found this way to be much easier
you want to slide the belt the same way it came off, its extremely hard to align a new belt without the markings, its not timing related just makes life easier.
Patranising it is. you should not attempt this if you are not already clued up about engines need to watch but killing me lol
Just bought my gates kit this vid is gonna help a ton (: thanks man!
I just got the gates kit aswell how has it held up for you over the last couple years and did you like it or have any issues with the kit?
Thank you for the tips! Definitely helped me today!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
So that momnet at 17;30...well that's different on my motor. The guard is made up of two seprate parts, the circular one covering the pulley, and the upper part of the guard retaiined by three bolts. That second one will not under any circumstance come free. It's trapped by thr alternator belt tensioner. Even in it's relaxed position it overlaps the guard enough to prevent it coming free. The prospect of removing the tensioner looks like the only way forward!!!
A very, very instructive, clean and interesting video. Thanks a lot! Really
My pleasure! Thank you for watching.
Your going to drain coolant , why not do 1st ? Then remove the coolant reservoir. More room too work . Same with the hose above, loosen up towards the front and pull towards the back. That time spent seems too be time saved working around them.. imho
Excellent video bro, very well explained to. Fair play to ya.!!
Best DIY yet well done
Thanks man! 🤘🏻💪🏻
Great viddy very informative and professional done.Thanks
After watching this, I will be removing that coolant tank first. I just hate having to fight against some piece of crap while fiddling around in tight spaces.
Yea, it was really annoying.
WOW that's insane! I just had that done to my Mk2 TT and a window regulator on the same day.
Nice!
@@Rythecarguy BTW I'm an adman. I was one of the first in the UK to drive the TT c1998, it was on a business trip to the factory in Ingolstadt, Bavaria. Most of my TV ads were for Quattro. I've also been to the Ford factory in Detroit where I met Mrs Ford. This got Silver at Cannes... ua-cam.com/video/iKmYq0eaN8U/v-deo.html
Awesome video! Thank you.
G12 coolant...why do i see green...outch!
It’s fiiiiiinnnneeeeee
You pretty much made everything dummy proof, only thing you did bot mentioned is that you cant use regular coolant on these cars, it must be g12
Any reason for removing the bolts to the valve cover?
Excellent video describing the process. I once took apart a Ford C4 automatic transmission and as I went through the disassembly, I lined up each assembly/part, from left to right, along the wall and placing the disassembled components in baggies. For reassembly, I took the disassembled parts and worked from right side to the left side for reassembling. Of course, when you have a new part to install, use the new part .
I recall the first reassembled part was a thrust washer that was provided in various thicknesses depending on wear. I asked a transmission guy what thickness washer I should use for a car with so many miles on it. The transmission guy simply handed me a thrust washer and said, "Use this one." The transmission shaft thrust washer worked fine. And the transmission worked fine, too. I don't think I could have succeeded if I didn't organize the parts.
No, I took that cover off because it was in really bad shape from years of oil spills due to bad PCV.
Great video dude
Thank you!
Awesome work dude
+ollie m thank you!
Thanks for this excellent video! Please do another video on your Audi tt works!! Regards from France
Thank you for watching. Much more from the Audi to come!
thanks so much for this video. Very well put together
+imfuctifino my pleasure!
Good shit this is gonna help me on my gti
I really appreciate that you did this video, but you just completely skip the hardest part of this job, installing the tensioner with the engine mount bracket in the way. I'm about ready to just set this thing on fire and be done with it.
Sorry about that, yea, TBH I ended up hating that car. I just put a video out about the top 5 worst cars I have ever owned and I put the TT in the number 1 spot.
@@Rythecarguy I can understand that. But I'm still in love with mine, even though the timing belt service left me with scars 😂
@@Rythecarguy For me, it's a perfect balance between performance and comfort. Glides along like a dream on the highway, but digs in when you get into boost exiting a corner, smiles per gallon and all that.
I agree with that. It had really smooth power delivery and it felt well balanced. Gotta give credit where credit is due.
Good Job, Keep up the great work!!
How much time did the whole replacement take?
I’m sorry but I don’t remember this was a few years ago
Ry the car guy I assume, when putting it all back together. You needed to lower and raise the engine again to get to the bolts of the engine mount?and to fill the engine coolant. Do you just close the bottom valve and full in coolant tank?
I need help! Please!! :D
Well I changed the timing belt, water pump, tensioner on 2000 audi tt.
And after starting the car twice the Check engine light came on.
Code reader said it is:
( p0301= cylinder 1 misfire detected)
P01340 (crankshaft and camshaft sensors signals put of sequence)
Car doesn't show any issues starting or engine performance. It sounds and acts just like the way it did before replacing the parts.
I put new spark plugs, and switched ignition coils from 1 cylinder to 4. Check engine light came back on, I had checked out again and still telling me. cylinder 1 misfire. I checked all conector they look fine.
Any ideas or suggestions ? Anyone experienced this issue before? Please tell me what you think might be. thank you!
Did you just replace the belt or did you get a kit, if you reused the tenioner pulley there is a chance that it could have skipped a tooth somehow. And that could be putting it off just out of what the cam sensor is set to read. If you haven't tried a new cam sensor I would try that first though I'm pretty sure they're in a decent spot to get at I could be wrong. But If the guy making the video gives you the answer go with his first lol. The only other thing I could even think would be a stretched timing belt somehow
Nevermind I didn't catch the first time reading you replaced all three lol
Stretch bolts ???
Yes, stretch bolts are one time use bolts that will deform when you torque them down. I’m you use them they cannot be reused.
Excellent video
wow that is crazy I don't want to be go through to order I hope I don't have to change my timing belt on my Audi TT not yet.
I don't own the car (yet?) but thanks for the time and effort
You got it! 👍🏻