Mr Carlson's Lab (on the YT channel by that name) has a video about the modifications he did to a laminator to get higher temperatures. I think he has the best explanation of that type of detailed modification with cooling fan and circuit mods. The problem with higher laminator temperature is that the higher temperatures can damage some models with plastic drive gears. I haven't used a laminator myself though. I prefer to use a travel type clothes iron. They don't have steam functions so the surface is totally flat. I have bought 2 that were brand new at the local second hand thrift store. It's one of those cheap things people buy and never use. I think I paid a dollar apiece for each of them. I think this type of travel iron is the best for any boards smaller than the surface size of the iron. The only time you really need a laminator is when your boards are larger than the iron. I like the nail polish touch-up idea, but I imagine that has longer drying times. I use the cheap Chinese etching markers that can be found on AliEx for less than $0.50. They have two writing tips on each side, one with a fine point tip, and one with a small marker type tip. They are also perfect for making your own notes and labels on PCBs and parts, especially if you don't have a silkscreen. Do not use a sharpie for etching touch-ups. My ferric chloride went straight through sharpie ink (really just a dye). If your having trouble getting your laser printer ink to bond or need to get it even I don't recommend using acetone directly as shown. Obviously it works for some people like it was shown here. I think the better way is probably an Acetone vapor method. Marco Reps (on the YT channel by that name) did some videos awhile back about using a Lexmark laser printer with a straight through feed to print directly on copper clad. This printing style doesn't pass over the heated roller in the laser printer, so the ink is just placed on the PCB as dust and is not heat-set. Marco showed how he used an acetone vapor method to fix the ink to the copper clad after "printing" directly. Spoiler alert, he couldn't get his printer to align 2 sides well enough to do double sided circuits with this machine and scraped the project in favor of more advanced methods.
Very good detail in general and in particular more details than I was aware of. I never thought of modifying the temperature sensor or using acetone to better fill in and set the resist ink. Spasiba.
You cannot since it is an AC synchronous motor one cannot change the speed. You would rather need to swap the existing ac motor with a DC motor so you could easily tune the speed
Cant you etch it with regular sulfiric acid (sona kislelina) my father told me how he made his boards back in the day and it seems to make sense since it doesnt disolve the marker nor the board just the copper
Hello Kasyan TV. I love your videos, they are informative and many are very ingenious. A question I have for you is what is the minimal tolerance for this methodology? Thanks again for this and your other videos. Peace, B
A laser printer actually uses plastic "dust" to print with and melts the dust to the paper. The plastic is what resists being etched. You re-melt the toner plastic from the paper onto the circuitboard blank. An ink jet printer just uses powdered dyes dissolved in a liquid. The liquid evaporates and leaves the dye behind. Nothing an ink jet printer prints with is melted plastic.
There are people that have filled their own ink cartridges with various liquids and built direct to copper clad printers. Honestly this is more trouble than it's worth in my opinion. You can get a cheap laser printer at a local second hand thrift store for cheap. You'll find one if you are patient and stop by a store a few times within a week or two. I got a cheap one for $8 with a full cartridge and tray of paper. It's super easy to print on a piece of glossy paper from a junk mail flyer and use an iron. Just be sure to get the iron really hot and thoroughly heat the ink/copper clad. Put the combo on a small piece of flat wood before you iron the ink on. That's the part most people aren't bright enough to figure out. Don't sink all of your heat into a large surface (like a giant countertop), on the other side of your PCB. A small piece of wood will focus the heat on the PCB/ink and it will yield good results. The real challenge is learning KiCAD or other EDA of your choosing. -Jake
Mr Carlson's Lab (on the YT channel by that name) has a video about the modifications he did to a laminator to get higher temperatures. I think he has the best explanation of that type of detailed modification with cooling fan and circuit mods. The problem with higher laminator temperature is that the higher temperatures can damage some models with plastic drive gears. I haven't used a laminator myself though. I prefer to use a travel type clothes iron. They don't have steam functions so the surface is totally flat. I have bought 2 that were brand new at the local second hand thrift store. It's one of those cheap things people buy and never use. I think I paid a dollar apiece for each of them. I think this type of travel iron is the best for any boards smaller than the surface size of the iron. The only time you really need a laminator is when your boards are larger than the iron.
I like the nail polish touch-up idea, but I imagine that has longer drying times. I use the cheap Chinese etching markers that can be found on AliEx for less than $0.50. They have two writing tips on each side, one with a fine point tip, and one with a small marker type tip. They are also perfect for making your own notes and labels on PCBs and parts, especially if you don't have a silkscreen. Do not use a sharpie for etching touch-ups. My ferric chloride went straight through sharpie ink (really just a dye).
If your having trouble getting your laser printer ink to bond or need to get it even I don't recommend using acetone directly as shown. Obviously it works for some people like it was shown here. I think the better way is probably an Acetone vapor method. Marco Reps (on the YT channel by that name) did some videos awhile back about using a Lexmark laser printer with a straight through feed to print directly on copper clad. This printing style doesn't pass over the heated roller in the laser printer, so the ink is just placed on the PCB as dust and is not heat-set. Marco showed how he used an acetone vapor method to fix the ink to the copper clad after "printing" directly. Spoiler alert, he couldn't get his printer to align 2 sides well enough to do double sided circuits with this machine and scraped the project in favor of more advanced methods.
Very good detail in general and in particular more details than I was aware of. I never thought of modifying the temperature sensor or using acetone to better fill in and set the resist ink. Spasiba.
Very clever. Thank you for a great video.
I always like yor videos. Keep doing it.
Really nice tips, bro. 😊
could i use any laser printer for photo paper or Glossy photo paper?
hi which liquid did you used for copper etching achrilich acid or hydrogen per oxid ? I got confused help please
How about to control the heating-roller's motor and decreasing the rpm's....??
You cannot since it is an AC synchronous motor one cannot change the speed. You would rather need to swap the existing ac motor with a DC motor so you could easily tune the speed
Great video 😂👌👍
Nice Video presentations but most of your videos have low audio quality and volume. More power and Godbless!
What's the laminator model shown in the video?
I didn't understand what you said what acid with hydrogen peroxide. Is that Hydrochloric acid?
Thx... Iknow why alwsys failed, my machine only heat to 120 degere
Cant you etch it with regular sulfiric acid (sona kislelina) my father told me how he made his boards back in the day and it seems to make sense since it doesnt disolve the marker nor the board just the copper
Hello Kasyan TV.
I love your videos, they are informative and many are very ingenious.
A question I have for you is what is the minimal tolerance for this methodology?
Thanks again for this and your other videos.
Peace,
B
Copper sulfate Can copper dissolve? I wonder. Thank you.
What if I have ink printer? Will it work? If not what are other options
No, unless you add a photo etch stage to the process. Search "photo etch PCB" or something like that on UA-cam.
A laser printer actually uses plastic "dust" to print with and melts the dust to the paper. The plastic is what resists being etched. You re-melt the toner plastic from the paper onto the circuitboard blank. An ink jet printer just uses powdered dyes dissolved in a liquid. The liquid evaporates and leaves the dye behind. Nothing an ink jet printer prints with is melted plastic.
There are people that have filled their own ink cartridges with various liquids and built direct to copper clad printers. Honestly this is more trouble than it's worth in my opinion. You can get a cheap laser printer at a local second hand thrift store for cheap. You'll find one if you are patient and stop by a store a few times within a week or two. I got a cheap one for $8 with a full cartridge and tray of paper. It's super easy to print on a piece of glossy paper from a junk mail flyer and use an iron. Just be sure to get the iron really hot and thoroughly heat the ink/copper clad. Put the combo on a small piece of flat wood before you iron the ink on. That's the part most people aren't bright enough to figure out. Don't sink all of your heat into a large surface (like a giant countertop), on the other side of your PCB. A small piece of wood will focus the heat on the PCB/ink and it will yield good results. The real challenge is learning KiCAD or other EDA of your choosing.
-Jake
Thanks for sharing :-)
Very cool
Szuper!
5:17 ... wtf is that?
I believe that's what you call a gamer faucet.
She got that with her Hello Kitty collection.
@@larrybud "She" has rather manly hands
it's a Barbie PCB RGB SuperWasher
Nice
Thanks
Hello dear friend I have a project for you
All data not true. *You should post true data and ur own voice*
Please use your own voice!
Please use your own name
Like
5:23
could you arrange a toy for baby?
ua-cam.com/video/QtsVlDVBUOk/v-deo.html
thanks for your reply,, already build that toy, but i think my child will more attracted if use some light and music sound
I am going to do something like this, wait a little)
thanks so much friend,, and my child will like it to
This technique good for poor people.