Highlights: 4:44 goes offscreen to weld planetary gear parts that are historically a point of failure at 5:00 shows replacement of the stock metal sealing rings with 3 of the 4L60E reverse input sealing rings that he slides over a long funnel onto the surface, lubes with light assembly lube, presses in place with a resizing tool and holds tight with an E40D or 4L80 bushing cut open to allow adjustment, and once in place over the rings held tight by a hose clamp. In a later video he advises putting this assembly overnight in a freezer to help lock everything in place, then the next day inserting this assembly very carefully. The sealing rings are very easy to damage on insertion, but are very effective when installed correctly. Freezing the assembly helps hold everything together, but the assembly must be done quickly so they don't slide around. After assembling the drum, piston, return spring, balance piston, snap ring, a sandwich of 4 alternating steels and fibers (steel first), pressure plate with the step up toward you at 10:59 then a flat snap ring (work in with a thin screwdriver), cushion plate, then another sandwich of 4 alternating steels and fibers (steel first), pressure plate, and finally a copper-colored flat snap ring at 11:39 11:45 new scene: rear planetary gets put into the ring gear, washer with the lip down, bearing, flat side of the sun gear, lip of the washer down at 12:09, then light assembly lube on washer mating with the front planet, then same lube on the bearing added to the previous washer, then the front planet is inserted into the rear planet and held in place by a snap ring. Key step: a point of failure is the pins that hold the three internal rotating gears, which loosen up and come apart. To prevent this, tack weld the pins in place At 12:43 shows back pins of that need to be welded and ground down smooth. To make sure everything is aligned, do the welding when these parts are assembled, then take it apart and weld the front part. 14:20 new scene piston goes into case. 24:45 planet is put into case with snap ring, shell with flats and tabs, flat side down is inserted, off-white plastic-y washer (make sure you get the one that fits), sprag assembly with lip up and ID mark up so that it the interior surface turns counterclockwise, bearing sits on top 25:50 Sun shell with black plastic-looking washer inserted on back side (check fitment) held in place with the darker hi-tack assembly lube, 26:10 insert the shell, then race with the lip down 26:26 Alternating Steels and clutches (the largest ones) whose outer teeth need to be oriented in a specific direction. this started with a steel and had 5 steels total and 5 clutches, he says if you have a clutch leftover that's less important than the total clearance being correct. 27:30 Finish with a flat snap ring at the 12' o clock position 27:59 bearing sits on top, shell with oval interior holes is inserted, then dark lube on bearing that sits in center, CRITICAL PART: inserting the drum whose preparation began at 5:00. Take the drum (which he recommends freezing to stabilize the rings) and insert it 28:19, adjust til it feels solid at 28:42, bearing sits on top, 29:00 for oil tubes, three small rubber o-rings are replace on holes that tubes fit into, 29:30 discusses how tubes should be air checked for leaks, 30:00 10mm bolt secures bracket that holds two tubes in place. 30:54 applies Loctite 598 silicone sealant to outside lip of case, smoothing it out evenly with fingers.
Hi, Great video. I have a U140E that my dad and I rebuilt for my RX300 that originally grenaded the primary planetary gear from broken planetary pins. We were able to get all good used parts for it that matched identically. We did do a weld on the pins to prevent this from happening again. The rebuild kit is the same one as this transmission I believe. After rebuild, the B1 brake doesn't seem to be applying fully. On assembly, you pointed out that there aren't supposed to be O-rings inside of the seals. Every one of my seals had 2 O-rings inside of them, so that's one mistake I know we made. We changed out the valve body with a good like new one, and I put a shift kit into it from Trans-go, and it also has all new solenoids. Before and after the valve body swap, we get the code P0750. It seems to be slipping in 2nd gear and shifts somewhat hard into third. I'm not sure where the problem would be. I'm thinking the clearance is incorrect on the clutch pack, or the seal isn't quite right on the valve body. Otherwise, all the gears work great. It will shift like normal if I go slow, but anything aggressive, it just doesn't shift into second, it just skips it. I'm wondering where you would presume the problem might be? Or where to investigate first? I don't believe the computer for this is one that has to be programmed. It resets when the power is out for more than 30 minutes. It is a 2000. Thanks in advance.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission We found the problem. Somehow, while rebuilding the transmission, we misplaced the 2nd brake drum c-clip with the flange c-clip. (not sure how we got it to fit to begin with) We were really lucky there wasn't a lot of damage. The c-clip on the flange slipped out, and was squished in diameter, and stuck between the flange and the 3rd gear drum. So that's why 2nd was kind of working. I ordered a new set of c-lips from Toyota and got them put in the correct place. Did an engine relearn reset, and now everything is working super smooth like it should.
great video...I got 2005 sienna le...280k and got P0798..SL1 or SL3 problem?... I got valve body out and tested each solenoid with 12v and all fire ok...and resistance is OK within spec 12ohm on 2 pin one....5ohm on 1pin ones.... I flushed out solenoid valves and ready to put back and pray... only problem is the spring and that check ball stay in place???? while putting it back in working under jack stand in driveway... Also one SL3 black plastic tab broke...ok to plug back in and go....or put a metal hose clamp on solenoid body so it doesn't come out?? or other tricks??...I think tie wrap would crack after heat.. Also I was thinking cleaning the whole valve body in ultrasound cleaner and valve solenoid too???....You think safe? and which cleaning solution to use... ??
798 is an electrical code for SL3. So, if they solenoid checks ok. You are going to have a wiring problem between the computer and the transmission. While it could be a bad computer, it is rare. Ultrasound is fine. It will probably shake the keepers out of the valve body. So, either completely disassemble it or secure them. I use the green assembly lube to hold all of that in place when I have to put one back while it is in the vehicle.
Yes, what kind of issue are you having? Those rings on the rear cover are the worst ones. That is why I put the 4L60 Reverse Input ones on. They are a pain to get sized properly but they seal excellent when you do.
Hello , I have a Aisin 150F unit in my Lexus Rx 180.000 miles .Having lately bumps between 2/3 upshifts. Changed the fluid ,did some adapt procedure by pulling the fuse for the ECM .My DIY ideas have finished. What do you suspect , can I continue driving whitout doing harm to the unit. My greetings from Poland
Probably need to fix or replace the valve body. If you don't have access to Sonnax parts replace the valve body. If you do try a zip kit. It could also be a solenoid problem. Continuing to drive it may cause damage. After repairs you may have to get access to a scanner that can properly clear the adapts.
Hey man, so I have an 08 highlander with the u151f and was having some slight shifting issues like a soft 2-3 shift and tiny very quick jump in rpm from 3-4. Also had a slight bump when turning and then applying light throttle. I replaced the sl1, sl2, sl3, and slt solenoids. I then did a transmission memory reset with techstream and performed the road test. At first on the road test it had a drawn out shift from 1st to 2nd with a bump and the triple bump from 3-4 it eventually smoothed out to near perfect shifting except for the tiny little bump on a turn then light throttle. I stupidly had the idea to try one more reset to try and sooth the last little light throttle/after a turn bump thing and ever since I reset again the drawn out 1-2 shift with a bump stayed and a new downshift bump popped up. Do think I damaged the internals with the reset? I didn't replace the valve body, do you think that would be worth a try? The fluid has never been bad or smelt burnt. I have never found any metal in the pan except very fine shavings on the magnets that actually looked very good for 230k miles. Much appreciated if you can offer any insights.
@CurmudgeonTransmission 2010 Sienna code P0776(pending), no check engine light. Will not shift into 3rd. Fluid dark, but not extremely dark or strong in smell, slight burnt smell. Silver metallic almost like liquid powder on the magnets very very fine, no chunks, chips, or splinters of metal. Replaced shift solenoids SL1, SL2, SL3, S4, & SLT(pressure solenoid). Replaced filter, pumped out from return hose 10qts and replaced with Toyota WS fluid. Cleared code, test drive showed no change. Any ideas? I'm a carpenter not a mechanic but am pretty capable in the garage. Thanks
Sounds like the converter is failing and clogged the filter which in turn caused the direct clutches (Co) to burn. Pretty common failure. Time for a rebuild. Be sure and get your kit with the molded pistons when you get it. Use Transtec.
Hello, I believe I have this transmission in my 2007 Avalon. When slowly accelerating from traffic light It would jerk and motor would rev up to about 1500k-2500k and delays before switches gears. it’s alittle difficult to reproduce the problem consistently. What could be the issue? I’ve already replaced filter and drain fill fluid at 195k. It had similar issue + a Torque converter shudder prior to changing. The shudder seems to have disappeared. The fluid was red prior and still is red. I have 206k on the clock
Could be a valve body or solenoid issue. Or it could be a ring land problem in the rear cover. Or a problem with the drum that rides on that cover. Can be caused by a bad computer, but that is more common on the Rav 4's not the Avalon's. Since it is not consistent, I would lean more to the valve body or solenoids. Have you had the system scanned for codes?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I have a small obd scanner but no codes active. It happens between accelerating slowly 2-3 shift, worse when driving car is warming up in the morning . I baby the vehicle to allow it to warm up. Started slipping between gears, hard shifting, binding up while decelerating like the brakes are on, bucking, tires moving 1-2 but 2-3 sometimes won't move at all. It doesn’t happen until next time driving. Also smelled hot fluid like it was burning up. But again the fluid is red when I wipe with little black
Hey, thanks again for these videos man. Those ring seals and the tube seal at 54:30 between the valve body and the tranny, could I get those without buying a rebuild kit? If so, do you happen to know the part numbers?
What causes the random 2-3 and 3-4 triple bump on these? I've had two vehicles with an U151E. 05 Sienna, and now a 07 Highlander. Both act the same. Sometimes smooth as silk. And then other times, not so much.
Would help to know if it has any codes stored in the system. Just because the light is not on does not mean there are not any. Could be speed sensors not reading correctly or worn valve body. These are prone to valve body wear and solenoids not working properly.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission no stored codes unfortunately. Speed sensor on the top looks easy enough to get to. Would that be the one or is there two on these?
There are 2. The early ones had both of them black. Later ones the top one was blue. It is slightly longer. The other one is towards the rear of the transmission and the radiator.
I just rebuilt a unit and it has delayed forward and seems to take off in third gear. Any diagnosis you could think of before I drop the valve body and go through it? No check engine light or anything.
If it is taking off in 3rd there should be some code stored in the computer. Just because the light is not on does not mean there are no codes. It's possible it has a valve body problem. Easiest to check before pulling. Also check your line pressure before anything else.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission couldn’t find any issues in the valve body, so I tore the unit back down. Found that I had put too much RTV on the back cover and it blocked the oil feed hole. Would this cause this?
hello from Toronto. its a solid job. thanks for sharing. may i ask that, i have 2009 Lexus 350 - U151F , N o reverse, is that a huge problem ? should i get rid of the car ? thanks for everything
Hello from Europe. I've got a 2007 Toyota Sienna with U151E. When I remove foot from pedal gas during normal 30MPH drive I hear a whirling noise (something like bearing). Pressing a little bit gas pedal causing noise to disappear. I've checked by car scanner that in this case I'm on 4th gear and when I remove foot from pedal gas the lock-up selenoid switches to ON but lock-up doesn't lock. I don't know if this is ok - I haven't checked this earlier. Normally during driving with speed 70MPH lock-up lock on 5th o 4th gear. Oil changed 10kmiles ago with Toyota WS. Have you ever heard about something like that ?
These are prone to the planetaries and bearings coming apart, I would be looking at that direction. Pull the pan and see if metal is showing up. Some were prone to noise and is why they put a plastic cover with foam under it over the transfer gear and differential area. They used it to dampen the noise. As far as the lock up, that is normal operation.
I have some questions that hopefully you can answer. I am currently dealing with a 2006 Sienna with the U151F AWD and experiencing a grinding noise when in drive or reverse that I suspect coming from the transfer case. I have pulled the housing off of the rear of the transfer case and the output shaft seems to be loose/wobbly which I feel confirms a little more of this being a transfer case issue. My questions are, if I pull the CV shafts from both sides, will the transmission still engage the transfer case when I turn it on and put it in gear to see if the grinding continues or would I need to completely remove the transfer case? And would you say this is an OK way to troubleshoot the problem?
I have an A541E transmission with a small amount of metal in the pan. I've been chasing a vibration on the vehicle ('02 Sienna) for years. I took the trans out and removed the diff. The spider gear assemblies seem to have excessive play. Is it normal for these spider gears to wobble and is there a way to replace them (I've tried and failed to get the pin out that's holding them in)? Is it possible that wobbly spider gears could cause vehicle pulsation? Thanks! Love your videos. Your expertise is impressive.
In order to get to the spider gears you need to remove the ring gear. Then there are another set of bolts that hold the 2 halves together. you are supposed to heat the ring gear up to get it off and on, 230F degrees. Inner bolts for the 2 halves 46 ft. lbs. Ring gear bolts 91 ft. lbs. Everything has line up marks so if you don't see them make your own. Back lash on the gears is a standard .002-.008. Should not wobble. You MAY still be able to get them from Toyota, I don't know. Where else is hard to say. You will probably have to buy a complete used one. I have never seen one bad. Vibrations and noises can be some of the hardest to diagnose. The good thing about vibrations is they all happen at different frequencies. So if you have enough experience with them you can begin to know what is causing what, but it is tough. The somewhat good news is there is a guy on UA-cam that has come up with an APP. It's pricey. But if you was a shop that dealt in vibration diagnosis it would be worth it. The channel is Weber Auto, don't know if you are familiar with it. Hear is the link to the video. ua-cam.com/video/PT1nkmkdy5w/v-deo.html
Thank you very much for your video!! I've tried to replace all 7 selenoids on my 2006 solara V6 and it's really stupid that i forgot the order so now one of the SL3 or SL2 is wrong assembly and caused my car keep driving forward instead of backing up when putting it into Reverse gear. Can you do me a big favor by sharing an order of these 7 solenoids and differentiate them on how to putting back into the Valve body? Thanks a lot and God bless you, my friend 🥰🙏👍 Thanks again for your great and detail video!!!
We will see how this goes. Place the valve body in front of you with the solenoids away from you and to your right. When you are going to be looking at the solenoids the connectors will be pointing to the right. We will start at the top left. That is the SL1. It has a black connector and is the only one that has 2 vents on the left side of the solenoid. The next one to the right is the SLT. It usually has a brown connector, although I have seen some replacements with black. It is the only one that has no vents on the left. Right next to that one is the SL3. Black connector with 1 vent to the left and 4 to the right, with the 2nd and 3rd being connected and recessed. Next one is the SR goes in first. Next one is S4 and bolt bracket sits on top of SR. Sometimes it has a brown connector. Next one is the SL2. Black connector, 1 vent to the left and 4 to the right, with the 2nd 3rd and 4th being connected and recessed. Last one is the DSL. Cannot really screw up the SR S4 and DSL as they will only fit in one place. Only exception being the SR goes in first and S4 second.
Hi Tom, I saw you put the Park/Neutral safety range sensor back on the U151. I'm having difficulty to remove it on the one that I'm working on. Any suggestions will be appreciated and thanks.
I have only had 1 come in that was damaged and it was long before I began filming. Do not get many AWD on this unit, maybe a handful. Can be strange the units that you see and don't even within a few miles. Got a friend that works at a shop within a mile and he see's totally different units than I do.
Problem in the direct clutch drum. Sealing rings in the end cover. Problem in the valve body. 1st design version could also have a problem in the Underdrive area.
Hey guys. Thanks for this great video! I had put a junkyard transmission in a 2006 Sienna (the original one leaked all the fluid from torque converter seal and burned out). The van drove perfect with the "new" transmission. Drove it for several weeks, with literally zero issues. All of a sudden the other day I come out, and the shifter goes through all the gears, and literally ZERO transmission response. Nothing whatsoever. I confirmed the shift linkage is working perfectly. And there's fluid in the tranny. Is this something that could be explained by a solenoid?? Or likely there's internal damage in the tranny? Any other ideas? Racking my brain here, not making any sense to me.....thanks!!! Nelson
It is not going to be a solenoid problem, not that you can not have a bad one, it's just not going to causing a no movement problem. Probably looking at a pump or torque converter problem at the least.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Wow thanks for that fast response I appreciate that. I did just in fact pull one of the tranny fluid hoses that goes to the radiator and ran the car and ran through the gears and no fluid came out. Does that prove the pump not working? I'm guessing the only way to address this is a teardown or another "junkyard diamond?" (Groan)
@@amudeiolam6158 Yes, the pump is not working. BTW, do make sure that you get one that matches your engine size. Just recently ran into a situation where someone had installed a junk yard unit and it was for different engine size and it kept throwing codes for the transmission and it was because it was the wrong unit.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for your advice, I appreciate it. What would have caused this? Could I have messed anything up that only showed up a week or two later, "all of a sudden?" Or just "coincidence?'
Hey man nice video, just liked and subscribed. I just rebuilt a u140f and you make it seem super easy. Quick question it seems like you do this for a living, how important is it to check clutch clearances, since some aftermarket clutches come in slightly different thickness, Also your clutches looked dry Is there no need to leave them in trans fluid for at least 30 mins? Not trying to be a jerk just want to get better at it and more efficient Thanks, God bless you!
Thanks. Very important to check clearances. Some are critical. If you use quality clutches, i.e., Raybestos or Borg Warner, you don't have problems with fluctuations in thickness. Others that shall remain nameless, but start with an A or an E, you can have those problems. I do not break out the gauge on every rebuild. I have got to where I can tell pretty much if I am in spec or not. If it seems I am out, or it is a critical one I will. No, I do not soak them. I get this question quite often. I have never seen a difference doing it or not. But there again I use quality clutches. I can see it being a problem with low quality clutches. I am not saying to do it or not to do it. Do what makes you comfortable. I don't and had no issues. Have been building for 38 years now. Thanks for watching.
I am not clear on what you are asking. Do you want to be an apprentice in the shop? I do not own the shop but I could pass your info along to the owner and if he is interested he could contact you.
Please sir how can I get this new pass of a fibre whenever I work Gear transmission I have issues on it because I don't know where to buy new bus we normally use Belgium past work how can I get your contact and address please sir I really need your help please
I think the translation is a little off, but I think you are asking where to buy the clutches. Overseas I am not sure. I deal with mostly Transtar or WIT. Their links are in the description. Sorry I do not give my contact info out. I will answer your questions here or on Instagram. Thanks for watching.
Can you please help out with the valve body rubber seals orientation you put before installing the valve body to the case? Also can it cause some kind of problem if you install those seals in wrong orientation? Thanks, great video, it helped so much! 3515921010 3514921010 3514521010
You will have to go to my Instagram to send you a picture. Give me year model, casting number of the valve body housings (both) and the separator plate. I may have it here on the computer at home otherwise it will be Tuesday when I get back to the shop.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission What's your instagram? I have a U151F AT and I am talking about those 2 round seals that go to the case between case and valve body
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Sent you an instagram request, also I am talking about 2 circle rubber seals that go to the case itself, between case and valve body
@@dokfksdlfsdklfsdkflsdk Oh I was thinking about check balls. Those seals are the same on both sides. As long as they are properly in the recess they should be fine. CurmudgeonTransmission
Highlights: 4:44 goes offscreen to weld planetary gear parts that are historically a point of failure
at 5:00 shows replacement of the stock metal sealing rings with 3 of the 4L60E reverse input sealing rings that he slides over a long funnel onto the surface, lubes with light assembly lube, presses in place with a resizing tool and holds tight with an E40D or 4L80 bushing cut open to allow adjustment, and once in place over the rings held tight by a hose clamp. In a later video he advises putting this assembly overnight in a freezer to help lock everything in place, then the next day inserting this assembly very carefully. The sealing rings are very easy to damage on insertion, but are very effective when installed correctly. Freezing the assembly helps hold everything together, but the assembly must be done quickly so they don't slide around.
After assembling the drum, piston, return spring, balance piston, snap ring, a sandwich of 4 alternating steels and fibers (steel first), pressure plate with the step up toward you at 10:59
then a flat snap ring (work in with a thin screwdriver), cushion plate, then another sandwich of 4 alternating steels and fibers (steel first), pressure plate, and finally a copper-colored flat snap ring at 11:39
11:45 new scene: rear planetary gets put into the ring gear, washer with the lip down, bearing, flat side of the sun gear, lip of the washer down at 12:09, then light assembly lube on washer mating with the front planet, then same lube on the bearing added to the previous washer, then the front planet is inserted into the rear planet and held in place by a snap ring.
Key step: a point of failure is the pins that hold the three internal rotating gears, which loosen up and come apart. To prevent this, tack weld the pins in place At 12:43 shows back pins of that need to be welded and ground down smooth. To make sure everything is aligned, do the welding when these parts are assembled, then take it apart and weld the front part.
14:20 new scene piston goes into case.
24:45 planet is put into case with snap ring, shell with flats and tabs, flat side down is inserted, off-white plastic-y washer (make sure you get the one that fits), sprag assembly with lip up and ID mark up so that it the interior surface turns counterclockwise, bearing sits on top
25:50 Sun shell with black plastic-looking washer inserted on back side (check fitment) held in place with the darker hi-tack assembly lube, 26:10 insert the shell, then race with the lip down
26:26 Alternating Steels and clutches (the largest ones) whose outer teeth need to be oriented in a specific direction. this started with a steel and had 5 steels total and 5 clutches, he says if you have a clutch leftover that's less important than the total clearance being correct. 27:30 Finish with a flat snap ring at the 12' o clock position
27:59 bearing sits on top, shell with oval interior holes is inserted, then dark lube on bearing that sits in center,
CRITICAL PART: inserting the drum whose preparation began at 5:00. Take the drum (which he recommends freezing to stabilize the rings) and insert it 28:19, adjust til it feels solid at 28:42, bearing sits on top, 29:00 for oil tubes, three small rubber o-rings are replace on holes that tubes fit into, 29:30 discusses how tubes should be air checked for leaks, 30:00 10mm bolt secures bracket that holds two tubes in place.
30:54 applies Loctite 598 silicone sealant to outside lip of case, smoothing it out evenly with fingers.
"...replacement of the stock metal sealing rings with 3 of the 4L60E reverse input sealing rings". How come are they better than original rings?
Бис! Браво! Билиссимо!
Ол Райт. Ты лучший!
Fantastic video and great job!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Can almost guarantee you the transmission will never work like factory after the rebuild.
Классно работаешь.
Не зная языка я понимаю что ты делаешь. Гуд. Американцы как ты и все гуд.
Спасибо, спасибо за просмотр.
Hi, Great video.
I have a U140E that my dad and I rebuilt for my RX300 that originally grenaded the primary planetary gear from broken planetary pins. We were able to get all good used parts for it that matched identically. We did do a weld on the pins to prevent this from happening again.
The rebuild kit is the same one as this transmission I believe.
After rebuild, the B1 brake doesn't seem to be applying fully.
On assembly, you pointed out that there aren't supposed to be O-rings inside of the seals. Every one of my seals had 2 O-rings inside of them, so that's one mistake I know we made. We changed out the valve body with a good like new one, and I put a shift kit into it from Trans-go, and it also has all new solenoids. Before and after the valve body swap, we get the code P0750. It seems to be slipping in 2nd gear and shifts somewhat hard into third.
I'm not sure where the problem would be. I'm thinking the clearance is incorrect on the clutch pack, or the seal isn't quite right on the valve body. Otherwise, all the gears work great. It will shift like normal if I go slow, but anything aggressive, it just doesn't shift into second, it just skips it.
I'm wondering where you would presume the problem might be? Or where to investigate first?
I don't believe the computer for this is one that has to be programmed. It resets when the power is out for more than 30 minutes. It is a 2000.
Thanks in advance.
I would double check everything in the valve body first since you only have a problem in second gear.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission We found the problem. Somehow, while rebuilding the transmission, we misplaced the 2nd brake drum c-clip with the flange c-clip. (not sure how we got it to fit to begin with) We were really lucky there wasn't a lot of damage. The c-clip on the flange slipped out, and was squished in diameter, and stuck between the flange and the 3rd gear drum. So that's why 2nd was kind of working. I ordered a new set of c-lips from Toyota and got them put in the correct place. Did an engine relearn reset, and now everything is working super smooth like it should.
Glad you found the problem.
Thanks you sir we really appreciate this video
Welcome. Thanks for watching.
great video...I got 2005 sienna le...280k and got P0798..SL1 or SL3 problem?... I got valve body out and tested each solenoid with 12v and all fire ok...and resistance is OK within spec 12ohm on 2 pin one....5ohm on 1pin ones.... I flushed out solenoid valves and ready to put back and pray... only problem is the spring and that check ball stay in place???? while putting it back in working under jack stand in driveway... Also one SL3 black plastic tab broke...ok to plug back in and go....or put a metal hose clamp on solenoid body so it doesn't come out?? or other tricks??...I think tie wrap would crack after heat.. Also I was thinking cleaning the whole valve body in ultrasound cleaner and valve solenoid too???....You think safe? and which cleaning solution to use... ??
798 is an electrical code for SL3. So, if they solenoid checks ok. You are going to have a wiring problem between the computer and the transmission. While it could be a bad computer, it is rare. Ultrasound is fine. It will probably shake the keepers out of the valve body. So, either completely disassemble it or secure them. I use the green assembly lube to hold all of that in place when I have to put one back while it is in the vehicle.
Good job
Thanks
Do you air check anything sealing rings are my issue maybe. New place I haven't accumulated parts
Yes, what kind of issue are you having? Those rings on the rear cover are the worst ones. That is why I put the 4L60 Reverse Input ones on. They are a pain to get sized properly but they seal excellent when you do.
Muito bom, nota DEZ. Um abraço daqui do BRASIL.
Thanks
Thanks for the video I’m looking at doing upgrades to my u151e as in 4l60 shaft and Allison clutches
Good luck!
Hello , I have a Aisin 150F unit in my Lexus Rx 180.000 miles .Having lately bumps between 2/3 upshifts. Changed the fluid ,did some adapt procedure by pulling the fuse for the ECM .My DIY ideas have finished.
What do you suspect , can I continue driving whitout doing harm to the unit.
My greetings from Poland
Probably need to fix or replace the valve body. If you don't have access to Sonnax parts replace the valve body. If you do try a zip kit. It could also be a solenoid problem. Continuing to drive it may cause damage. After repairs you may have to get access to a scanner that can properly clear the adapts.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you very much for your advise and help .
Hey man, so I have an 08 highlander with the u151f and was having some slight shifting issues like a soft 2-3 shift and tiny very quick jump in rpm from 3-4. Also had a slight bump when turning and then applying light throttle. I replaced the sl1, sl2, sl3, and slt solenoids. I then did a transmission memory reset with techstream and performed the road test. At first on the road test it had a drawn out shift from 1st to 2nd with a bump and the triple bump from 3-4 it eventually smoothed out to near perfect shifting except for the tiny little bump on a turn then light throttle. I stupidly had the idea to try one more reset to try and sooth the last little light throttle/after a turn bump thing and ever since I reset again the drawn out 1-2 shift with a bump stayed and a new downshift bump popped up. Do think I damaged the internals with the reset? I didn't replace the valve body, do you think that would be worth a try? The fluid has never been bad or smelt burnt. I have never found any metal in the pan except very fine shavings on the magnets that actually looked very good for 230k miles. Much appreciated if you can offer any insights.
Very good possibilty it is the valve body. Might want to make sure it has the latest software update for the transmission also.
@CurmudgeonTransmission
2010 Sienna code P0776(pending), no check engine light. Will not shift into 3rd. Fluid dark, but not extremely dark or strong in smell, slight burnt smell. Silver metallic almost like liquid powder on the magnets very very fine, no chunks, chips, or splinters of metal.
Replaced shift solenoids SL1, SL2, SL3, S4, & SLT(pressure solenoid). Replaced filter, pumped out from return hose 10qts and replaced with Toyota WS fluid. Cleared code, test drive showed no change. Any ideas? I'm a carpenter not a mechanic but am pretty capable in the garage. Thanks
Sounds like the converter is failing and clogged the filter which in turn caused the direct clutches (Co) to burn. Pretty common failure. Time for a rebuild. Be sure and get your kit with the molded pistons when you get it. Use Transtec.
Hello,
I believe I have this transmission in my 2007 Avalon. When slowly accelerating from traffic light It would jerk and motor would rev up to about 1500k-2500k and delays before switches gears. it’s alittle difficult to reproduce the problem consistently. What could be the issue? I’ve already replaced filter and drain fill fluid at 195k. It had similar issue + a Torque converter shudder prior to changing. The shudder seems to have disappeared. The fluid was red prior and still is red. I have 206k on the clock
Could be a valve body or solenoid issue. Or it could be a ring land problem in the rear cover. Or a problem with the drum that rides on that cover. Can be caused by a bad computer, but that is more common on the Rav 4's not the Avalon's. Since it is not consistent, I would lean more to the valve body or solenoids. Have you had the system scanned for codes?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I have a small obd scanner but no codes active. It happens between accelerating slowly 2-3 shift, worse when driving car is warming up in the morning . I baby the vehicle to allow it to warm up. Started slipping between gears, hard shifting, binding up while decelerating like the brakes are on, bucking, tires moving 1-2 but 2-3 sometimes won't move at all. It doesn’t happen until next time driving.
Also smelled hot fluid like it was burning up. But again the fluid is red when I wipe with little black
I think you will find that the planetaries have come apart. Very common problem. Debris is making the solenoids and valves not work properly.
Hey, thanks again for these videos man. Those ring seals and the tube seal at 54:30 between the valve body and the tranny, could I get those without buying a rebuild kit? If so, do you happen to know the part numbers?
Thanks for watching them. Not that I am aware of.
What causes the random 2-3 and 3-4 triple bump on these? I've had two vehicles with an U151E. 05 Sienna, and now a 07 Highlander. Both act the same. Sometimes smooth as silk. And then other times, not so much.
Would help to know if it has any codes stored in the system. Just because the light is not on does not mean there are not any. Could be speed sensors not reading correctly or worn valve body. These are prone to valve body wear and solenoids not working properly.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission no stored codes unfortunately. Speed sensor on the top looks easy enough to get to. Would that be the one or is there two on these?
There are 2. The early ones had both of them black. Later ones the top one was blue. It is slightly longer. The other one is towards the rear of the transmission and the radiator.
I just rebuilt a unit and it has delayed forward and seems to take off in third gear. Any diagnosis you could think of before I drop the valve body and go through it? No check engine light or anything.
If it is taking off in 3rd there should be some code stored in the computer. Just because the light is not on does not mean there are no codes. It's possible it has a valve body problem. Easiest to check before pulling. Also check your line pressure before anything else.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission couldn’t find any issues in the valve body, so I tore the unit back down. Found that I had put too much RTV on the back cover and it blocked the oil feed hole. Would this cause this?
Could.
Que marcas de estos kit son de buena calidad ?
Tengo.una U140F y requiero cambiar kit completo pero no se a que proveedor solicitar.
Me ayudan?
Transtec, consítelo con embragues Raybestos o Borg Warner si es posible. Utilice el filtro Filtran.
hello from Toronto. its a solid job. thanks for sharing.
may i ask that, i have 2009 Lexus 350 - U151F , N o reverse, is that a huge problem ? should i get rid of the car ?
thanks for everything
Could be but might not be. Depends on how much money you are willing to put into the vehicle as to if you should get rid of it or not.
Generally speaking is this gearbox is reliable or not? How long it last after proper maintenance?
Fairly. Usually get between 1-200,000 miles. Weak area is the planetaries.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission The second generation is U151F model is there any improvments there?
No, it's pretty much the same.
Hello from Europe. I've got a 2007 Toyota Sienna with U151E.
When I remove foot from pedal gas during normal 30MPH drive I hear a whirling noise (something like bearing).
Pressing a little bit gas pedal causing noise to disappear.
I've checked by car scanner that in this case I'm on 4th gear and when I remove foot from pedal gas the lock-up selenoid switches to ON but lock-up doesn't lock.
I don't know if this is ok - I haven't checked this earlier.
Normally during driving with speed 70MPH lock-up lock on 5th o 4th gear.
Oil changed 10kmiles ago with Toyota WS.
Have you ever heard about something like that ?
These are prone to the planetaries and bearings coming apart, I would be looking at that direction. Pull the pan and see if metal is showing up. Some were prone to noise and is why they put a plastic cover with foam under it over the transfer gear and differential area. They used it to dampen the noise. As far as the lock up, that is normal operation.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you.
What transmission are you working on 🤔… thanks for your video 👍
U151E
I have some questions that hopefully you can answer. I am currently dealing with a 2006 Sienna with the U151F AWD and experiencing a grinding noise when in drive or reverse that I suspect coming from the transfer case. I have pulled the housing off of the rear of the transfer case and the output shaft seems to be loose/wobbly which I feel confirms a little more of this being a transfer case issue. My questions are, if I pull the CV shafts from both sides, will the transmission still engage the transfer case when I turn it on and put it in gear to see if the grinding continues or would I need to completely remove the transfer case? And would you say this is an OK way to troubleshoot the problem?
If the output shaft is moving like that it is definitely bad. Yes you can remove the axles and the transfer case will still be engaged.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video. Does the manual valve slot lock into the shifter or is the shifter behind the slot?
The pin goes between the 2 slots. Thanks for watching.
I have an A541E transmission with a small amount of metal in the pan. I've been chasing a vibration on the vehicle ('02 Sienna) for years. I took the trans out and removed the diff. The spider gear assemblies seem to have excessive play. Is it normal for these spider gears to wobble and is there a way to replace them (I've tried and failed to get the pin out that's holding them in)? Is it possible that wobbly spider gears could cause vehicle pulsation? Thanks! Love your videos. Your expertise is impressive.
In order to get to the spider gears you need to remove the ring gear. Then there are another set of bolts that hold the 2 halves together. you are supposed to heat the ring gear up to get it off and on, 230F degrees. Inner bolts for the 2 halves 46 ft. lbs. Ring gear bolts 91 ft. lbs. Everything has line up marks so if you don't see them make your own. Back lash on the gears is a standard .002-.008. Should not wobble. You MAY still be able to get them from Toyota, I don't know. Where else is hard to say. You will probably have to buy a complete used one. I have never seen one bad. Vibrations and noises can be some of the hardest to diagnose. The good thing about vibrations is they all happen at different frequencies. So if you have enough experience with them you can begin to know what is causing what, but it is tough. The somewhat good news is there is a guy on UA-cam that has come up with an APP. It's pricey. But if you was a shop that dealt in vibration diagnosis it would be worth it. The channel is Weber Auto, don't know if you are familiar with it. Hear is the link to the video. ua-cam.com/video/PT1nkmkdy5w/v-deo.html
Here is the spider gear and washer part numbers Alldata lists. 4134124010, 4135133011 don't know if they will do you any good.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you!!
@54:37 what’s the purpose of blowing air in the holes is this why car owners get the po748 code “solenoid A stuck in off or closed position” ?.
Air checking the drums to make sure there are no leaks. P0748 is an electrical code. You either have an open or a short in the circuit.
Thank you very much for your video!!
I've tried to replace all 7 selenoids on my 2006 solara V6 and it's really stupid that i forgot the order so now one of the SL3 or SL2 is wrong assembly and caused my car keep driving forward instead of backing up when putting it into Reverse gear. Can you do me a big favor by sharing an order of these 7 solenoids and differentiate them on how to putting back into the Valve body? Thanks a lot and God bless you, my friend 🥰🙏👍
Thanks again for your great and detail video!!!
We will see how this goes. Place the valve body in front of you with the solenoids away from you and to your right. When you are going to be looking at the solenoids the connectors will be pointing to the right. We will start at the top left. That is the SL1. It has a black connector and is the only one that has 2 vents on the left side of the solenoid. The next one to the right is the SLT. It usually has a brown connector, although I have seen some replacements with black. It is the only one that has no vents on the left. Right next to that one is the SL3. Black connector with 1 vent to the left and 4 to the right, with the 2nd and 3rd being connected and recessed. Next one is the SR goes in first. Next one is S4 and bolt bracket sits on top of SR. Sometimes it has a brown connector. Next one is the SL2. Black connector, 1 vent to the left and 4 to the right, with the 2nd 3rd and 4th being connected and recessed. Last one is the DSL. Cannot really screw up the SR S4 and DSL as they will only fit in one place. Only exception being the SR goes in first and S4 second.
Have you had any issues with those cork gaskets leaking? Would one rather use rtv gasket maker instead?
Not on these units. You could use silicone. Just make sure it is the good stuff, like ultra black.
Hi Tom,
I saw you put the Park/Neutral safety range sensor back on the U151. I'm having difficulty to remove it on the one that I'm working on. Any suggestions will be appreciated and thanks.
There is a 7/8" nut on it. Loosen it up and it should come off. You don't need to take that nut all the way off just loosen it.
I have one apart on the bench right now I only see one tapered snap ring what are you referring to with a beveled side up ?
The tapered snap ring.
Hey Tom.. how about the damaged tranfser gear pinion? Any videos? It’s the u151F awd
I have only had 1 come in that was damaged and it was long before I began filming. Do not get many AWD on this unit, maybe a handful. Can be strange the units that you see and don't even within a few miles. Got a friend that works at a shop within a mile and he see's totally different units than I do.
Hallo tuan. Saya mahu tanya kamu tentang transmission setelah rebuild kenapa gear no3 slip? Thanks you
Problem in the direct clutch drum. Sealing rings in the end cover. Problem in the valve body. 1st design version could also have a problem in the Underdrive area.
Ok thanks you
Hey guys. Thanks for this great video! I had put a junkyard transmission in a 2006 Sienna (the original one leaked all the fluid from torque converter seal and burned out). The van drove perfect with the "new" transmission. Drove it for several weeks, with literally zero issues. All of a sudden the other day I come out, and the shifter goes through all the gears, and literally ZERO transmission response. Nothing whatsoever. I confirmed the shift linkage is working perfectly. And there's fluid in the tranny. Is this something that could be explained by a solenoid?? Or likely there's internal damage in the tranny? Any other ideas? Racking my brain here, not making any sense to me.....thanks!!! Nelson
It is not going to be a solenoid problem, not that you can not have a bad one, it's just not going to causing a no movement problem. Probably looking at a pump or torque converter problem at the least.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Wow thanks for that fast response I appreciate that. I did just in fact pull one of the tranny fluid hoses that goes to the radiator and ran the car and ran through the gears and no fluid came out. Does that prove the pump not working? I'm guessing the only way to address this is a teardown or another "junkyard diamond?" (Groan)
@@amudeiolam6158 Yes, the pump is not working. BTW, do make sure that you get one that matches your engine size. Just recently ran into a situation where someone had installed a junk yard unit and it was for different engine size and it kept throwing codes for the transmission and it was because it was the wrong unit.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for your advice, I appreciate it. What would have caused this? Could I have messed anything up that only showed up a week or two later, "all of a sudden?" Or just "coincidence?'
@@amudeiolam6158 Nothing you did. If you screwed something up on the install it would be immediate.
Hi Tom can I ask you what the transmission type of buick lacrosse 2012 2.4 engine volume? Thanks from advance best regards
6T40 or 6T45, only way to know for certain is to check the RPO code. They are the same, just one has more torque capacity.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks
What was the mileage?
Hello, what's the issue when C2 and CO don't apply?
C0 is on in 3rd, 4th and 5th. C2 is reverse.
Hey man nice video, just liked and subscribed. I just rebuilt a u140f and you make it seem super easy. Quick question it seems like you do this for a living, how important is it to check clutch clearances, since some aftermarket clutches come in slightly different thickness,
Also your clutches looked dry
Is there no need to leave them in trans fluid for at least 30 mins?
Not trying to be a jerk just want to get better at it and more efficient
Thanks, God bless you!
Thanks. Very important to check clearances. Some are critical. If you use quality clutches, i.e., Raybestos or Borg Warner, you don't have problems with fluctuations in thickness. Others that shall remain nameless, but start with an A or an E, you can have those problems. I do not break out the gauge on every rebuild. I have got to where I can tell pretty much if I am in spec or not. If it seems I am out, or it is a critical one I will. No, I do not soak them. I get this question quite often. I have never seen a difference doing it or not. But there again I use quality clutches. I can see it being a problem with low quality clutches. I am not saying to do it or not to do it. Do what makes you comfortable. I don't and had no issues. Have been building for 38 years now. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for your reply, I appreciate your help please keep making awesome videos
God bless you!
New subscribe on your channel
I have a question I have a Toyota Sienna 2005 FWD what kind of transmission they use
Should be a U151E or F. On Toyota's look on the tag on the driver's door and at the bottom it will have what the vehicle came with.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you very much
@@CurmudgeonTransmission hi again
Which brand of clutches do you recommend to use
Thank you
@@ronymorales3527 Prefer Raybestos or Borg Warner.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you
Am really interested in running an apprenticeship on transmission rebuild
I am not clear on what you are asking. Do you want to be an apprentice in the shop? I do not own the shop but I could pass your info along to the owner and if he is interested he could contact you.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes. I would love to be an apprentice. I will be most grateful if you could do that for me. Thank you. GOD bless you
Where is your shop ? I got a sienna with code po770 need to be fix thanks
Go here to find a shop that can help you. Thanks for watching. www.atra.com/ShopFinder
@@CurmudgeonTransmission which one is yours?
I don't own a shop.
Please sir how can I get this new pass of a fibre whenever I work Gear transmission I have issues on it because I don't know where to buy new bus we normally use Belgium past work how can I get your contact and address please sir I really need your help please
I think the translation is a little off, but I think you are asking where to buy the clutches. Overseas I am not sure. I deal with mostly Transtar or WIT. Their links are in the description. Sorry I do not give my contact info out. I will answer your questions here or on Instagram. Thanks for watching.
What lube is that KY? 😂😂😂 No but really kind of lube do you use?
The gold is transgel, green is Dr tranny. Been told that the gold is not available now, but not sure, have not tried to order it recently.
Его один палец, как два моих. Неудобно такими ручищами работать наверно.... хотя у него получается ловко.
У меня много практики. Продолжаю свой 37-й год, занимаясь этим. Спасибо за просмотр.
Can you please help out with the valve body rubber seals orientation you put before installing the valve body to the case? Also can it cause some kind of problem if you install those seals in wrong orientation? Thanks, great video, it helped so much!
3515921010
3514921010
3514521010
You will have to go to my Instagram to send you a picture. Give me year model, casting number of the valve body housings (both) and the separator plate. I may have it here on the computer at home otherwise it will be Tuesday when I get back to the shop.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission What's your instagram? I have a U151F AT and I am talking about those 2 round seals that go to the case between case and valve body
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Sent you an instagram request, also I am talking about 2 circle rubber seals that go to the case itself, between case and valve body
@@dokfksdlfsdklfsdkflsdk Oh I was thinking about check balls. Those seals are the same on both sides. As long as they are properly in the recess they should be fine. CurmudgeonTransmission
Vasoline vasoline