This thing is fantastic. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1McjgiqTNcTjrhvRvJWcrk5bzTeQW-Wn Easy to store in a bag in "screwdriver" position, not heavy but well built, and the location of the button makes it easy to screw or unscrew with one hand in either "gun" or "screwdriver" position. My only real complaint is there isn't a clip anywhere to store another bit, and the bit isn't a combo dual-ended bit either, so the flathead and P1/P0 philips bits we have to carry around invariably get misplaced.Note: Apparently Black + Decker changed this same Li2000 model from "Type 2" to "Type 3". This new "Type 3" appears to be slightly lighter, and the charging plug is now larger, with a little metal piece to keep it snug. I never noticed the "Type 2" version charger plug to not be perfectly snug, so not sure why this change was made - it does make it annoying that our shop now has 8 of these, and the new 3 have different charging plugs :/
For a newbie like me, the auto feed collated gun is so nice. I was able to do a few rooms in my house without hassle. It’s easy to use and easy to use by myself.
Those strips look a lot shorter than the ones I use. Reloading slows you down a fair bit. I find the biggest advantage is hanging ceilings and keeping a hand free to hold the board. The extra length is a huge help too.
I’ve been doing drywall for over 40 years. Like most drywaller‘s I’m really opinionated. This young guy is very knowledgeable and I like a lot of things he says. One thing that I want to say about collated versus single shooters, i’ve had a lot of guys hang for me was single shooters and every time I have a lot of screw pops. Over the years I’ve noticed with the collated you have to press harder which makes the drywall go tight to the stud. If you glue it’s not a problem. The glue is beneficial because it won’t distort the sheet rock as much.
As a homeowner/installer, being in a hurry is not my problem -- in fact, being in hurry is the least of my problems. Patience and a lightweight tool work best for me. If the tool is somewhat semiautomatic - all the better.
Collated screw guns shine when doing ceiling work, or having less experienced workers who fumble too much with loading a screw. You always get the screws in at perfect depth. As for not getting in the corners with the autofeed type, if you do your own framing, you can offset your corner studs by 1/2" and you don't have an issue anymore. Definitely a tool for general contractors who do multiple stages of a job vs those who specialize in hanging drywall all day
I'm not sure if you're going to read this but my head just exploded cause I notice that your the same guy from the skate tutorials. So cool you also do carpentry, I just bought my self my 1st set of makita tools And hopefully find a job in carpentery too! Cheers from South LA cali
Amen 🙏🏼, wow do I ever agree with the fact that some people load and sink screws faster than the “collated magazine”!!! First guy I boarded with could probably put a screw a second or less! Left me with my jaw on the floor wanting to see more!!!
I'm a drywaller that uses the autofeed hilti for 4 years now, took a little while to get used to, but wouldn't go without it now. My fingers love me for it. The corners get easier after time.
I had one for a bit and it was nifty but would ditch it eventually, on some projects I'm putting in hundreds of screws and going through multiple box's of screws and it was never worth the hassle to use the auto feed
I have the Ridgid cordless drywall kit (already have lots of Ridgid tools and batteries, so sticking with the brand made sense) and do like the autofeed gun. It's not perfect, but it's not being used 24/7. Biggest "complaint" is that it's very easy to switch the gun into reverse without realizing, and all of a sudden the screws won't screw in and you're trying to figure out why. I have a corded Milwaukee screwgun as a backup (had it first for years), but it doesn't come out to play much these days, unless I have someone helping me, and they use it. The other main benefit I like about cordless (of any brand) is not having to drag round the cord and tripping over it while moving about. I do wish there was a better way of carrying the loaded strips without them flopping out of the pouch that wasn't designed for them.
I just put up Sheetrock in my kitchen. I bought a corded Ridgid collated screw gun. It worked ok but didn’t really speed me up much. I noticed the benefit was it’s a little faster and it forces you to drive the screw straight. I had quite a few misses where the screw wasn’t straight and it only went halfway in. And if the drywall wasn’t flat on the studs like when you are cutting around outlets it would over drive and mess up. I went back to single driving screws with my little M12 drill and once the sheet was secured I could finish it off the Ridgid. On the ceiling since the sheet is never real tight to the joist I had missed all over. I had half the screws set before it would be tight enough to use the Ridgid. All in all it wasn’t much help.
I have the cordless makita drywall gun and the collated attachment. They both have a place in the arsenal. I use the screwgun to get into tight corners and to tack the sheets up. Then slap on the the collated attachment to screw it all home. I'll keep my cordless drill handy with a Philips bit for the odds and ends.
Couple of things, a cordless is lighter without dragging the cord weight especially on scaffolding for a high ceiling. Second is the collated is just an attachment for the gun. Anyone complaining about the screw cost can just use regular screws most of the time and clip the collated on for where it excels. It pays for itself when you hand it to the new guy, or when you tack ceilings in place. Personally I use it on a lot of ceilings to tack it and then still use it to finish because I’m just tall enough for it to work on most lids without a ladder because it’s a little longer.
I'm a homegamer with a bunch of drywall repairs to do (thanks plumbers....). Bought a cordless blue gun, although the hilthi corded is probably the way to go. It's was a game changer for me. Was easier and much quicker than using an impact. Those autofeeds are cool though.
When I drywalled residential 28 years ago we nailed the perimeter first then went back and screwed off the field of the entire floor. This is back in the day before battery screw guns. I tried the feed gun but because of the method I was trained in, I found it was faster for me to manual feed my screw gun. Keep up the great work with your channel. Only suggestion I have is to invest in a wireless lapel mic like a Rode Go.
I'm finding my collated screw gun is priceless when it comes to hanging drywall by myself and because I need 1 hand to hold the big boards, truly amazing. However, the screws are expensive and sometimes the screw coil jams, so you're actually taking more time to load and unload the thing. So, definitely not recommended if you're just making small repairs and that 1 hand isn't really needed to hold the small board. I think I'm always going to carry one though, just in case I'm hanging something big and just want to get it secured quickly, ya know?
I use both on my crew. Have found that not being able to back a screw out (after missing a stud) with the auto feed gets frustrating. And also when gun jams and have to stop. Still haven't decided yet Old School or New School.
Got a full blown Dewalt kit for $280 that includes XR screw gun; 2nd GEN (DCF6202) collated magazine attachment; two 20V, 4aH XR batteries, a DCB 115 charger, and tool bag, and two long bits. The thing of it is that my time is more important than the cost of the kit. I would like it if Dewalt sold TORX, square, etc, bits to be able to expand its applications. Unfortunately, there would have to be a manufacturer that would have to sell the screw straps and they would not be cheap. It is a tool that is used for a very special application it can save the person using this tool a lot time and aggravation using the screw gun and attachment.
Just get your own three amigos, they use the Dewalt corded screwgun and they screw super fast. hah! I was writing that along watching the video and yeah Vancouver Drywaller knows the three amigos are really really fast with regular screw guns... it's like art to watch those guys hanging drywall.
Auto-feed would be ok for tacking off when working solo, especially for ceilings, then finish screwing off with a regular gun. Otherwise it would be cost ineffective.
@@brianallen140 yeah they are good in large open areas but there are spots like bathrooms or hallways that make a lift impossible. They are also heavy and cumbersome to store and haul around. Sometimes more trouble than they are worth...imo
Great video Ben! With regard to hanging the drywall on the wall vertically vs the typical horizontal orientation; will the taping and mudding process that follows be any different as a result?
@@lewisabrahms1002 Thanks Lewis, I wasn’t sure if the now tapered joints that intersect the ceiling in the vertical orientation every 4 feet had any affect on the taping and mudding process. Doesn’t sound like you encounter any “waviness” as a result of the period tapered seams that run vertically. Thanks!
@@holtrussell i always prefill with quick set.. especially my taper edges. Ben's has a great video on how to deal with a taper edge up against a butt edge. Odd joints I use my 18 inch pool trowel to float out.
Any thoughts on using this for just general framing or wood work? Robbie bits and Robbie screws aren't the same as they used to be, the amount of time I spend dropping screws, wobbling out when starting screws etc. (And I'm no slouch) I was thinking of picking the Milwaukee version of this up to keep in my belt instead of pockets full of screws. Thoughts ?
I'm thinking the Drywall Olympics guys must have one pouch full of drywall screws and another full of band-aids. ...and most of their skill is involved in quickly collating screws between their fingers.
What is the different between a drill and that the screw gun or an impact wrench and a screw gun? And why not just use an impact driver to fasten the fasteners ?
Not anymore the cordless out preform the corded . Plus all the companies hilti included are making the corded guns sub par because they fetch a much higher profit from there cordless lines
P.s. the strips are waaaaay too expensive to be doing a full house! These are for hangin lids/ceilings!!! So much more handy and convenient than holding the 12’ 5/8 fire rated sheet above your head to the joists and sinking a few screws At a time! This is THEE answer
I've used them almost exclusively in my fair share of amateur drywalling. If your just hanging a few sheets, a room or maybe even two, they work just fine. They save you money from buying a drywall screw gun, but at the cost of being much slower. Go for it if it's a small project. But Don't even think about hanging any more then 20 sheets at once with it, it's far too slow lol. At that point it's best to invest in a drywall screw gun, even if the ryobi cheapy.
I have had My collated for 8 years and ceilings and piece work is where it excels . The biggest issue is weight and pressure needed to compress especially doing the screws over 6 feet I blew out both my shoulders and eventually hired a young tall guy just to run that gun behind me after i set the sheets. But it really is my favorite tool , money well spent
I find belt feeder great when working solo, then again I use a drywall lift a lot for ceilings so some of the benefits are mostly time saving. I guess it is the same as hand nailing, the guys who do it 10 hours a day for 10 years can bang a nail in quicker than I can drive a screw using a drill. Overall if the material cost is eaten up by the client then time saving wise it is the obvious choice.
i wish i was half the speed you was on your slowest one. but i have a question. i have been watching your videos. learning this stuff. i taped and floated my bath room and it looked great. then i textured it and every tape shows through. am i'm not putting enough mud on it or sanding to much. or what? you can go to my last video i posted and see what i'm talking about.
I actually went and had a quick look at your video. My advice is to go back to his videos on flats and butt joints and pay very close attention to the way he applies the mud building it up and 3-4”s wider with each coat. And pay special attention to his technique of bending/pressing the outside edge of the blade and ‘feathering the edge’. Good luck.
@@markoshun thanks. that's what i was just doing. i had everything screwed up so bad until i found his videos and they looking a lot better now but i still have so much to do and redo . i'm doing most of it in both bath rooms because most of it will be covered. now his videos are the only ones i watch.
@@MadsWorld34 did you wet the tape after you embeded it onto the mud? If you don't wet the tape, that's why your tape bubbles. You can wet the tape by simply running another coat of mud over it, right after embedding the tape, and then wiping that same coat of mud off. The purpose is simply to get the moisture from the mud onto the tape, effectively wetting it and preventing bubbles.
@@NuttedInYoMom thanks but i have got past this stage except in my closet. i'm finished with sheetrock. it dont look bad for someone whos never done it before and i pray i never have to again. i have made up my mind if anything ever happens to the new house we will live in a damn tent.
We can’t use glue on fire rates ceilings in oz, and can’t leave gaps in the corners and cover it with cornice on fire rates ceilings in the US it goes toward fire eating code hence no studs adhesive and more screws to cover up. Just like doing outdoor areas must be screwed. .
Yeah but I think that's because yall use like 3/8 inch drywall over there, and the stud adhesive is to prevent sagging. But I may be wrong. But we in America typically use sturdier 1/2 inch drywall on walls, and even stiffer 5/8th inch drywall on ceilings. So we don't really need it, but some contractors use it in conjunction with screws merely to prevent screw pops. But that's really an easy fix because it happens rather infrequently
We don't use adhesive in FL. It's seen as cutting corners and is considered cheap craftsman ship. I've seen it used in homes built in the 90s doing remodels and every time the bond is no longer holding and there's nail pops.
If it's horizontal there will be less seams, it's easier to finish and bowed studs are less of a problem. I think vertical is code in some commercial building though.
@@el0rg Tend to use steel studs when framing so bowing not an issue. Either way if you do a decent job of the tape and jointing, after the painter has finished no-one is any the wiser.
I recently found out that my 10" and 12" knife joints are not flat and the reason is because when I use the knife with one hand it makes the blade concave with the wall, and I noticed I have to put the pressure with two hands towards the outsides of the blade. Can you tell me the right way to use this and what I'm doing wrong?
Your blade is supposed to concave, watch more of his videos and he explains it a lot. When using your knife, the round edge of the curve is called your "wall side", which should always be the side you use on the wall, if you use the other side, you're going to have the two points of your curve digging into your mud and leaving nasty lines. You'll find that your 4", 6", and 8" will also develop that curve as well with time.
When you missed, I kept thinking back to another video on dry-walling I've watched. "Mi abuelo me dijo, mijo, cuando entras al mundo, vas a ver que aye gente que ni vale para verga, y tu X, ni vales para verga." I may have butchered it, hopefully another piasan corrects me. You takeaway, if a Spanish speaking dude messes up a panel, tell um, "X, no vales verga". Really stress that rolled r. You may get chased around the site but you may get some free beer and tacos.
I always end up being annoyed with my collated gun, loves to jam, spit screws and always catches when I'm in an awkward position to get leverage on it, often cant get the corners with it either.
@@MatteusClement I've had Senco, Dewalt, Makita and Ridgid. Btw, I've never used one where you don't have to spin it up first, it's inherent to the design and function of collated screw guns.
@@typ044 Which collated driver attachment do you prefer? The Senco DS230 looks best to me. Less bulky and better line of sight for where you're driving screws. Haven't used though.
You can, but hard to justify the time spent unless you have lots of time on your hands. A box of 1000 collated screws runs me $14 CDN plus tax, so it's easy to just burn through the strips.
You can, but it's really not worth it. We did a few times but the strip blows out so the screws arent as secure afterwards leading to jams. Not worth it in the long run.
I tried to refill the strips for the Dewalt auto feed, but the gun would not advance properly. Still like the auto feeds even though they cost a bit more.
This thing is fantastic. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1McjgiqTNcTjrhvRvJWcrk5bzTeQW-Wn Easy to store in a bag in "screwdriver" position, not heavy but well built, and the location of the button makes it easy to screw or unscrew with one hand in either "gun" or "screwdriver" position. My only real complaint is there isn't a clip anywhere to store another bit, and the bit isn't a combo dual-ended bit either, so the flathead and P1/P0 philips bits we have to carry around invariably get misplaced.Note: Apparently Black + Decker changed this same Li2000 model from "Type 2" to "Type 3". This new "Type 3" appears to be slightly lighter, and the charging plug is now larger, with a little metal piece to keep it snug. I never noticed the "Type 2" version charger plug to not be perfectly snug, so not sure why this change was made - it does make it annoying that our shop now has 8 of these, and the new 3 have different charging plugs :/
For a newbie like me, the auto feed collated gun is so nice. I was able to do a few rooms in my house without hassle. It’s easy to use and easy to use by myself.
Those strips look a lot shorter than the ones I use. Reloading slows you down a fair bit. I find the biggest advantage is hanging ceilings and keeping a hand free to hold the board. The extra length is a huge help too.
Yeah that’s where the gun really shines imo helps you seal faster.
I used to know a contractor who would sit on his couch at night and reload screws in the auto-load strips. HAHA
I mean a beer and a good show to watch and why not?
Guilty....!!!
I can’t laugh harder at this!
Lol, thats funny but nuts to that!
You’re not very good with the regular screwgun, noticed you had to time lapse between screws.
Thanks for the time you took to make this video, good job
I’ve been doing drywall for over 40 years. Like most drywaller‘s I’m really opinionated. This young guy is very knowledgeable and I like a lot of things he says. One thing that I want to say about collated versus single shooters, i’ve had a lot of guys hang for me was single shooters and every time I have a lot of screw pops. Over the years I’ve noticed with the collated you have to press harder which makes the drywall go tight to the stud. If you glue it’s not a problem. The glue is beneficial because it won’t distort the sheet rock as much.
I use about 1 qt tube for about 4 12 foot sheets . I won't do a job without it .
As a homeowner/installer, being in a hurry is not my problem -- in fact, being in hurry is the least of my problems. Patience and a lightweight tool work best for me. If the tool is somewhat semiautomatic - all the better.
I usually go solo, so autofeed for me.
I've been looking for something like the drywall Olympics for weeks thank you so much
For me its all about the weight. Its it lighter and reasonably just as quick I'm all for it. Especially on the ceiling.
the cieling is where autofeed crushes it.
@@MatteusClement couldn't agree more. That's when the expense of one disappears!
Collated screw guns shine when doing ceiling work, or having less experienced workers who fumble too much with loading a screw. You always get the screws in at perfect depth. As for not getting in the corners with the autofeed type, if you do your own framing, you can offset your corner studs by 1/2" and you don't have an issue anymore. Definitely a tool for general contractors who do multiple stages of a job vs those who specialize in hanging drywall all day
I wonder how it does against 5/8 Cellin , ik they have a metal screw gun as well that would help with chane
Just picked up a SuperDrive N7 auto feed for my Dewalt screw gun. Bloody fantastic. The small nose piece lets you get into corners.
Where did ya buy it? Amazon link please and thank?
I'm not sure if you're going to read this but my head just exploded cause I notice that your the same guy from the skate tutorials. So cool you also do carpentry, I just bought my self my 1st set of makita tools
And hopefully find a job in carpentery too! Cheers from South LA cali
Auto feed seems popular in Canadian winter especially installing exterior drywall. Less handling screws with gloves.
Amen 🙏🏼, wow do I ever agree with the fact that some people load and sink screws faster than the “collated magazine”!!! First guy I boarded with could probably put a screw a second or less! Left me with my jaw on the floor wanting to see more!!!
I run an M12 impact, and drywall screw setter for the drywall stuff at home. Definitely would love to get a drywall screw gun, though!
I'm a drywaller that uses the autofeed hilti for 4 years now, took a little while to get used to, but wouldn't go without it now. My fingers love me for it. The corners get easier after time.
Should try Milwaukee's quiet auto. It's nice
I've got the makita. I just use the regular gun for corners and then hit the field with the autofeed
I had one for a bit and it was nifty but would ditch it eventually, on some projects I'm putting in hundreds of screws and going through multiple box's of screws and it was never worth the hassle to use the auto feed
I have the Ridgid cordless drywall kit (already have lots of Ridgid tools and batteries, so sticking with the brand made sense) and do like the autofeed gun. It's not perfect, but it's not being used 24/7. Biggest "complaint" is that it's very easy to switch the gun into reverse without realizing, and all of a sudden the screws won't screw in and you're trying to figure out why. I have a corded Milwaukee screwgun as a backup (had it first for years), but it doesn't come out to play much these days, unless I have someone helping me, and they use it. The other main benefit I like about cordless (of any brand) is not having to drag round the cord and tripping over it while moving about. I do wish there was a better way of carrying the loaded strips without them flopping out of the pouch that wasn't designed for them.
I just put up Sheetrock in my kitchen. I bought a corded Ridgid collated screw gun. It worked ok but didn’t really speed me up much. I noticed the benefit was it’s a little faster and it forces you to drive the screw straight. I had quite a few misses where the screw wasn’t straight and it only went halfway in. And if the drywall wasn’t flat on the studs like when you are cutting around outlets it would over drive and mess up. I went back to single driving screws with my little M12 drill and once the sheet was secured I could finish it off the Ridgid. On the ceiling since the sheet is never real tight to the joist I had missed all over. I had half the screws set before it would be tight enough to use the Ridgid. All in all it wasn’t much help.
The great thing about auto-feeds is not getting those nasty little steel slivers in your fingers !
Yeah just the threads slices my fingers to pieces especially if I haven't been drywalling for a while.
Man up
@@Godzilla015 The girlfriend really appreciates it too
You guys are such wimps 😂
@@Godzilla015 lmao
'For some reason I keep letting go of that...'
We're getting old VC, we're getting old...
Honest as always. Great video.
I have the cordless makita drywall gun and the collated attachment. They both have a place in the arsenal. I use the screwgun to get into tight corners and to tack the sheets up. Then slap on the the collated attachment to screw it all home. I'll keep my cordless drill handy with a Philips bit for the odds and ends.
I like how you showed the mistake of letting the panel fall.
And actually fixed it.
So many lazy contractors would say whateverrrrrr
Lol.
Couple of things, a cordless is lighter without dragging the cord weight especially on scaffolding for a high ceiling. Second is the collated is just an attachment for the gun. Anyone complaining about the screw cost can just use regular screws most of the time and clip the collated on for where it excels. It pays for itself when you hand it to the new guy, or when you tack ceilings in place. Personally I use it on a lot of ceilings to tack it and then still use it to finish because I’m just tall enough for it to work on most lids without a ladder because it’s a little longer.
Amen my friend!! 🙏🏼
This is a video I've been waiting for you to make!
I'm a homegamer with a bunch of drywall repairs to do (thanks plumbers....). Bought a cordless blue gun, although the hilthi corded is probably the way to go. It's was a game changer for me. Was easier and much quicker than using an impact. Those autofeeds are cool though.
"I don't drywall all the time"
My viewing of this channel determines that was a lie.
Survey says you weren’t telling the truth
you're the goat ben. love ya bud.
When I drywalled residential 28 years ago we nailed the perimeter first then went back and screwed off the field of the entire floor. This is back in the day before battery screw guns. I tried the feed gun but because of the method I was trained in, I found it was faster for me to manual feed my screw gun. Keep up the great work with your channel. Only suggestion I have is to invest in a wireless lapel mic like a Rode Go.
Totally miss using nails, much better also...
@@9and7 How so?
@@karpenterken1 better for the corners of the boards...
I'm finding my collated screw gun is priceless when it comes to hanging drywall by myself and because I need 1 hand to hold the big boards, truly amazing. However, the screws are expensive and sometimes the screw coil jams, so you're actually taking more time to load and unload the thing. So, definitely not recommended if you're just making small repairs and that 1 hand isn't really needed to hold the small board. I think I'm always going to carry one though, just in case I'm hanging something big and just want to get it secured quickly, ya know?
For DIY couple, autofeed is fantastic for the wife to fill all the screws AFTER husband put on a few screws to hold it in place.
That’s the only problem with the auto feed is it’s hard to get into the corners I rigged a pole on mine to do ceilings with out a ladder 👍
You can buy an extension from hilti to
Have you tried an air shim to lift the sheet in place . Keep up the good work.
I use both on my crew. Have found that not being able to back a screw out (after missing a stud) with the auto feed gets frustrating. And also when gun jams and have to stop. Still haven't decided yet Old School or New School.
Hello, hope your having a wonderful day
When a screw misses, use a screw driver to get it out (very easy)
Got a full blown Dewalt kit for $280 that includes XR screw gun; 2nd GEN (DCF6202) collated magazine attachment; two 20V, 4aH XR batteries, a DCB 115 charger, and tool bag, and two long bits. The thing of it is that my time is more important than the cost of the kit.
I would like it if Dewalt sold TORX, square, etc, bits to be able to expand its applications. Unfortunately, there would have to be a manufacturer that would have to sell the screw straps and they would not be cheap. It is a tool that is used for a very special application it can save the person using this tool a lot time and aggravation using the screw gun and attachment.
i use the Hilti SD5000 when we get some big project, it is absolutely awesome. Totaly worth the money
I don't like the metal slivers that come with a box of drywall screws. If I was doing drywall on the regular, I'd prefer the autofeed.
That used to bug me but after 6 months of nothing but drywall boarding my finger tips got so tough those metal slivers stop sticking in.
i have an auto feed but i honestly prefer my plain screwgun! just more comfortable to use and seems easier to drive screws without constant problems.
I like the cat inspector!
Just get your own three amigos, they use the Dewalt corded screwgun and they screw super fast. hah! I was writing that along watching the video and yeah Vancouver Drywaller knows the three amigos are really really fast with regular screw guns... it's like art to watch those guys hanging drywall.
U did good video.
killin bits wow . i love your videos but this one is kinda funny lol
Auto-feed would be ok for tacking off when working solo, especially for ceilings, then finish screwing off with a regular gun. Otherwise it would be cost ineffective.
That's funny he said the old-fashioned way with the drill lol my old fashioned way was with hammer and nails good times lol
Good video bro. Just bought a DeWalt auto feed.
Any recommendations as to what the best auto feed screws to buy are?
Welcome to Vancouver Drywall Guy... yeah, that’s just not as catchy. Even though it may be more accurate 🤣 love you brother
Seems autofeed would be great tacking in place a sheet when hanging solo. Especially when balancing ceiling sheets without a lift.
It is. Like having a third hand.
it's day and night.
Just get a lift. Get an inexpensive lift and make your life 100% easier. You can grab them for under 200 buck.
@@brianallen140 yeah they are good in large open areas but there are spots like bathrooms or hallways that make a lift impossible. They are also heavy and cumbersome to store and haul around. Sometimes more trouble than they are worth...imo
@@jatpack3 cmon now, most people should know that there's no one solution to everything. But the lift sure has helped me.
great vido love ;your videos have you got a video on an extension handle for that do screw a ceiling?
Holy screws Batman!
That drywall pro had huge gaos in his work
Great video Ben! With regard to hanging the drywall on the wall vertically vs the typical horizontal orientation; will the taping and mudding process that follows be any different as a result?
Not really... when i install i just go for whats the easiest fastest way.
Fix everything with mud and tape.
@@lewisabrahms1002 Thanks Lewis, I wasn’t sure if the now tapered joints that intersect the ceiling in the vertical orientation every 4 feet had any affect on the taping and mudding process. Doesn’t sound like you encounter any “waviness” as a result of the period tapered seams that run vertically. Thanks!
@@holtrussell i always prefill with quick set.. especially my taper edges. Ben's has a great video on how to deal with a taper edge up against a butt edge.
Odd joints I use my 18 inch pool trowel to float out.
@@lewisabrahms1002 Thank you Lewis!
Horizontal whenever possible. I'm 6 foot 6 and I hate doing work down low.
How many different types of cordless screwguns have you tried, and which is the best?
Any thoughts on using this for just general framing or wood work?
Robbie bits and Robbie screws aren't the same as they used to be, the amount of time I spend dropping screws, wobbling out when starting screws etc. (And I'm no slouch) I was thinking of picking the Milwaukee version of this up to keep in my belt instead of pockets full of screws.
Thoughts ?
you couldn't do it with the drywall version, it doesn't have enough juice. But I do know what you're getting at.
I believe you can get a 'decking' screwgun. The drywall screwgun runs at 4500 rpms. Might be a bit to much
But evrybody working with his normal speed will highly appreciate the benefit of having this tool vs no tool.
Ps. Don't run at work, just walk....
I'm thinking the Drywall Olympics guys must have one pouch full of drywall screws and another full of band-aids. ...and most of their skill is involved in quickly collating screws between their fingers.
What is the different between a drill and that the screw gun or an impact wrench and a screw gun?
And why not just use an impact driver to fasten the fasteners ?
What brand is the little step ladder? looks light and easy to maneuver.... I think I might need one!
Worth every penny if you ask me, I can justify a couple $20 buckets of collated screws every day of the week
On your own defiantly autofeed
Would like to see corded screwgun vs corded autofeed. The AC motor is definitely more powerful.
It is. Majority of commercial/ production boarders use corded guns.
Not anymore the cordless out preform the corded . Plus all the companies hilti included are making the corded guns sub par because they fetch a much higher profit from there cordless lines
Are there different screws for sheet metal? I was hoping this can be used in hvac to set register boxes etc with auto feed
Hilti has auto feed strips with self tapping screws. We use them on metal studs they may work for your application.
Do you have to push harder for collated one?
P.s. the strips are waaaaay too expensive to be doing a full house! These are for hangin lids/ceilings!!! So much more handy and convenient than holding the 12’ 5/8 fire rated sheet above your head to the joists and sinking a few screws At a time! This is THEE answer
How do you feel about those drywall screw setter bits for a regular drill that are like $1 or so?
They are 💩
@@vancouvercarpenter Thought so. Even for a DIY guy?
So many times, I find it doesn't set deep enough and I have to go manually set it deeper anyways
@@zachtoom that's because your not pushing the drill hard enough
I've used them almost exclusively in my fair share of amateur drywalling. If your just hanging a few sheets, a room or maybe even two, they work just fine. They save you money from buying a drywall screw gun, but at the cost of being much slower. Go for it if it's a small project.
But Don't even think about hanging any more then 20 sheets at once with it, it's far too slow lol. At that point it's best to invest in a drywall screw gun, even if the ryobi cheapy.
Would this thing work for boarding fences? 🤔
I have had My collated for 8 years and ceilings and piece work is where it excels . The biggest issue is weight and pressure needed to compress especially doing the screws over 6 feet I blew out both my shoulders and eventually hired a young tall guy just to run that gun behind me after i set the sheets. But it really is my favorite tool , money well spent
I'm faster feeding my own gun
I find belt feeder great when working solo, then again I use a drywall lift a lot for ceilings so some of the benefits are mostly time saving. I guess it is the same as hand nailing, the guys who do it 10 hours a day for 10 years can bang a nail in quicker than I can drive a screw using a drill. Overall if the material cost is eaten up by the client then time saving wise it is the obvious choice.
Could you do a video on different types of drywall? Green vs purple vs etc. And do they really make a difference.
Do you know if autofeed screws will work on resilient channel? i have a job coming up and im not sure. Thanks!
A lot of screws brother .damn
i wish i was half the speed you was on your slowest one. but i have a question. i have been watching your videos. learning this stuff. i taped and floated my bath room and it looked great. then i textured it and every tape shows through. am i'm not putting enough mud on it or sanding to much. or what? you can go to my last video i posted and see what i'm talking about.
I actually went and had a quick look at your video. My advice is to go back to his videos on flats and butt joints and pay very close attention to the way he applies the mud building it up and 3-4”s wider with each coat. And pay special attention to his technique of bending/pressing the outside edge of the blade and ‘feathering the edge’. Good luck.
@@markoshun thanks. that's what i was just doing. i had everything screwed up so bad until i found his videos and they looking a lot better now but i still have so much to do and redo . i'm doing most of it in both bath rooms because most of it will be covered. now his videos are the only ones i watch.
@@MadsWorld34 did you wet the tape after you embeded it onto the mud? If you don't wet the tape, that's why your tape bubbles.
You can wet the tape by simply running another coat of mud over it, right after embedding the tape, and then wiping that same coat of mud off. The purpose is simply to get the moisture from the mud onto the tape, effectively wetting it and preventing bubbles.
@@NuttedInYoMom thanks but i have got past this stage except in my closet. i'm finished with sheetrock. it dont look bad for someone whos never done it before and i pray i never have to again. i have made up my mind if anything ever happens to the new house we will live in a damn tent.
Thought drywall was supposed to be hung sideways
no stud adhesive, we use it on all sheets in australia, walls and ceilings, not required where you are?
Not in the states
We can’t use glue on fire rates ceilings in oz, and can’t leave gaps in the corners and cover it with cornice on fire rates ceilings in the US it goes toward fire eating code hence no studs adhesive and more screws to cover up. Just like doing outdoor areas must be screwed. .
Yeah but I think that's because yall use like 3/8 inch drywall over there, and the stud adhesive is to prevent sagging. But I may be wrong. But we in America typically use sturdier 1/2 inch drywall on walls, and even stiffer 5/8th inch drywall on ceilings. So we don't really need it, but some contractors use it in conjunction with screws merely to prevent screw pops. But that's really an easy fix because it happens rather infrequently
We don't use adhesive in FL. It's seen as cutting corners and is considered cheap craftsman ship. I've seen it used in homes built in the 90s doing remodels and every time the bond is no longer holding and there's nail pops.
you don't have to do the job faster but do the job well
Why do you install the drywall vertically instead of horizontally. I have been told that is a no no but no one seems to know why?
Maybe it's because it is easier to see the seam vertically compare to horizontally if you aren't that good at patching
@@VumVan Think it's only australians who hang horizontally. Here in E.U we tend to hang vertically.
If it's horizontal there will be less seams, it's easier to finish and bowed studs are less of a problem. I think vertical is code in some commercial building though.
Vertically is weaker but easier to finish.
@@el0rg Tend to use steel studs when framing so bowing not an issue. Either way if you do a decent job of the tape and jointing, after the painter has finished no-one is any the wiser.
I recently found out that my 10" and 12" knife joints are not flat and the reason is because when I use the knife with one hand it makes the blade concave with the wall, and I noticed I have to put the pressure with two hands towards the outsides of the blade. Can you tell me the right way to use this and what I'm doing wrong?
Your blade is supposed to concave, watch more of his videos and he explains it a lot. When using your knife, the round edge of the curve is called your "wall side", which should always be the side you use on the wall, if you use the other side, you're going to have the two points of your curve digging into your mud and leaving nasty lines. You'll find that your 4", 6", and 8" will also develop that curve as well with time.
@@959naq I think trowels have a concave blade not knives but this is a different issue. I need the wall flat not curved.
@@CybekCusal Okay don't listen to me and keep doing what you're doing. I mean why ask a question if you already know the answer?
@@959naq I actually was asking the person who makes the videos, not you.
Screw the joint tight first
Dude.... could you do an Amazon linkydinky?
If ya can't, that's cool, take my like and walk away happy lol
I have tried. They are always unavailable.
Thanks for that. Appreciate you and what you do.
10,000 scorpion brand there not bad 35$ here in B.C
Wayyyy more screws than necessary for one sheet of drywall
When you missed, I kept thinking back to another video on dry-walling I've watched. "Mi abuelo me dijo, mijo, cuando entras al mundo, vas a ver que aye gente que ni vale para verga, y tu X, ni vales para verga." I may have butchered it, hopefully another piasan corrects me. You takeaway, if a Spanish speaking dude messes up a panel, tell um, "X, no vales verga". Really stress that rolled r. You may get chased around the site but you may get some free beer and tacos.
Eso si calienta~
y calladito te vez más bonito~
como quien mete paz saca más ~ see you later
Do ceiling that were u test it
Why don't you save your wrist and buy a stiletto drywall hammer.. or use both arms for everything..
I always end up being annoyed with my collated gun, loves to jam, spit screws and always catches when I'm in an awkward position to get leverage on it, often cant get the corners with it either.
what brand? For example, I found with dewalt, you HAVE to spin up the gun and then put the screw in or else it jams
@@MatteusClement I've had Senco, Dewalt, Makita and Ridgid. Btw, I've never used one where you don't have to spin it up first, it's inherent to the design and function of collated screw guns.
@@typ044 Which collated driver attachment do you prefer? The Senco DS230 looks best to me. Less bulky and better line of sight for where you're driving screws. Haven't used though.
Can you refill that plastic thing?
You can, but hard to justify the time spent unless you have lots of time on your hands. A box of 1000 collated screws runs me $14 CDN plus tax, so it's easy to just burn through the strips.
You can, but it's really not worth it. We did a few times but the strip blows out so the screws arent as secure afterwards leading to jams. Not worth it in the long run.
I tried to refill the strips for the Dewalt auto feed, but the gun would not advance properly. Still like the auto feeds even though they cost a bit more.
you slow😂 but i love your videos🤟 thanks for this channel
They all have there place on a crew you cant just use the autofeed you need a basic corded drywall gun to accent it. There very cool I want one
Are you seriously not going to say anything about the cat!?
Oh sure, try to make it look extra fast with jump-cut editing.
Sounded like little toots 😆
I never screw off the recess until the next sheet is up doing stand up jobs . Its a waste of time .
You screw soo slow even with the auto feed
Wouldn't it be smart if drywall had guidelines to screw into? Only saying?
I bought a few sheets at Lowes in a pinch once and it had a gridlike pattern on the face of the drywall. It was actually quite useful.
Hello my name is pablo The Fortaleza Drywaller Brazil 🇧🇷
Welcome my friend.
i have the best drywall gun. milwaukee corded. woohoo
Yes, same with me. Never had a problem. Have been tempted to go cordless but seems unnecessary for the volume of work I do.
This guy is so slow with both screw guns I've never seen somebody so slow
I think that you need to put some more screws in
Autofeed is good till i are on ur own doing ceilings and the gun clogs up
I love it for the other 99% of the time but FML when it jams and you're only 2-3 screws in.