Looks like a good maintenance schedule, a lot better than 99.999% of the people out there..couple of edits reduce the trans service to 45K, cabin and engine filter schedule seems pretty aggressive but it's your money, rust protection hit it in the fall AND the spring the first two years, it will creep everywhere after 4 applications and build up a nice layer of dirt mixed in with the undercoating you will only need touchups after that.
@ hi Wicked, great to see you again! Fortunately, I do have a really good independent mechanic I go to. Perhaps I go to them for the radiator flush. I heard for the brake flush, there is a dealership specific computer that is required for a flush. Let me try to find a video link.
Hi Jasnik! Thanks for stopping by! That’s a long way to go! Let’s see what the future holds for both of our journeys. Let me know if there’s anything you have done that helped get you to 250K.
Over the years I’ve made some changes for reliability: 1. Transmission thermostat delete 2. Trans cooler 3. Oil catch can 4. Change diff/trans/TC fluid annually (esp with lower temps) 5. Change oil at 40-50% life indicated (3-6k miles depending on driving style) 6. Fluid film / corrosion inhibitors every fall 7. Generally following extreme duty maintenance schedule Probably more but this is what I credit to getting this far largely problem free.
8. AT 205 reseal spray annually on rubber components 9. Tried a nano ceramic coating on the engine (RVS - I think) 10. Grapheme Ceramic coat with maintenance by graphene rich soap
Subbed! I just bought a 2019 f150 with the 3.3L NA v6 with cash and I plan on taking this simple motor to some high mileage also so I’ll be staying tuned in
@Tony_Seed hi Tony, thanks for stopping by! And thanks for the sub. I’ll do my best to not let you down! 😅 my channel is all over the place, but it is all in someway tied back to my truck.
Restore and protect seems like a weird choice. I understood it as a use to fix an issue not as preventative maintenance, but if they said it’s ok the you should be good. Project farms testing showed Amsoil was best, with penzoil ultra platinum in 2nd. Gear oil I suggest Amsoil, nothing wrong with motorcraft but Amsoil makes the best products. Radiator flush is not needed at 65k. Replace the coolant every 5 years or 100K miles whatever comes first and your ahead of 80% of car owners. Gasoline is something i think you have right. My dad uses premium gasoline for his 2008 Yaris and oil changes every 5K. It’s at 537K miles currently. Started burning oil past 500K. Used Restore and protect the last 2 oil changes and oil burning has gotten worse. Not an issue of the Oil the engine was probably too far gone. As your engine is turbocharged the early oil changes are probably the best. Valvoline makes good stuff so your trans fluid is good and the interval. Engine air filter use wix project farm and another channel (that I can’t remember the name of) tested air filters. Eid came out on top with filtering and K&N as bottom for filtering. Brake fluid I have done with the rotors. Unless over 5 years. Paint protection film works well if your welling to spend that kinda money. Rust prevention I wouldn’t know down here in California. The issue here is the sun eating the clear coat and everything else. All in all seems like a pretty good plan.
@@PedroFerrer-vq5sw hi Pedro, thanks for stopping by! First of all, thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts! This is very helpful info! What are your thoughts on additives like Seafoam, STP, etc?
Ceramic coat your paint. DIY Detail have some nice coatings that are easy to apply. I also recommend AMSOIL fluids for it too, they're the best in the industry. I would use 75W-140 in the rear diff, as the new thin stuff is just to squeeze more fuel economy. Good luck on 500k. I have 227k on my '15 5.0L.
@@mr.3phase228 hey there! Thanks for stopping by. I put ceramic from a spray bottle on it, but haven’t used the more expensive stuff. I’m considering it though! Regarding the rear diff viscosity… I just worry about it causing issues with the warranty I have. What are your thoughts?
Good plan 🙏. I’m going to be adding a can of LiquiMoly Ceratec on my next oil change to see if it makes a difference. If it likes it I plan on using it every 20k miles
@@Horvath0819 I’ve never used that before. But from other videos I’ve watched, there is concern about it clogging filters because of how well it works. I’m not a car expert!
On turbo engines, spark plugs should be replaced every 30,000 - 45,000 miles. On brakes, Motorcraft is not OEM on Ford. The OEM brake pads on Ford are far better than Motorcraft brake pads.
Oooo good information right here! Why 30-45k? More than happy to update the numbers on my spreadsheet, just looking to understand more. When looking for brakes, do I just look specifically for Ford-branded brakes? It’s honestly been confusing looking for it haha
I think 2500 mile oil changes are extreme... I do full synthetic every 3500 to 4000. 5000 miles is probably still safe. I would drop the transmission oil change to every 35,000 and rear differential to 50,000... that advice from a friend and transmission shop owner in business for over 40 years.
@@MidwestF150 Yes, all my mechanics tell me oil in turbo engines get dirty faster.. gotta keep that oil clean to extend life span of the turbos which are not NOT cheap to replace. 3000 mile oil changes with full synthetic oil changes is really good. I stretch mine to 3500 to 4000 because most of my driving is highway miles... about 20,000 miles a year!
@@MidwestF150 Yes, short trips harder on oil. Best thing you can do with that mileage goal is oil samples it takes all the guess work and speculation out of it. Motor oil geek has great info on oil. And check his collab with powerstroke maintenance channel. He did a 11k mile sample on his 6.7 diesel and the oil was still good. Well worth the money. Everyone’s optimal oil change interval is different.
Change your oil as much as you want. You are still going to need to change the variable valve timing actuators driven by the timing chains ⛓️💥 Try to budget $1000 a year for curveball repairs… shocks / seals/ sunroof repairs/ APIM module / cam phasers on the intake or exhaust. Brake fluid can be sucked out of the master cylinder every two years and avoids the computer and can keep costs down while still keeping the water out of the lines. (Turkey Baster / fluid extraction tool ) are way more cost effective than the ford dealership. YMMV BEST OF LUCK WITH 500,000 MILES
@@BRADLEY_RYAN hi Bradley! Thanks for stopping by!! Thank you so much for the advice!! Please keep them coming as you learn more, I would appreciate it!!
@@bozerbrett7867 I haven’t decided on this. With how computerized these trucks are nowadays, with sensors and such, I don’t want to test my luck on this.
@@MidwestF150 I hear you on that! There's a lot of good reviews online for Redline fuel system cleaner, I'll let you know if my dash lights up like a Christmas tree after I try it.
It should be pretty easy my 2019 Silverado 1500 5.3L NBS is at 300,000 miles with no problem so pretty sure every ford truck or ram should be able to do it
Looks like a good maintenance schedule, a lot better than 99.999% of the people out there..couple of edits reduce the trans service to 45K, cabin and engine filter schedule seems pretty aggressive but it's your money, rust protection hit it in the fall AND the spring the first two years, it will creep everywhere after 4 applications and build up a nice layer of dirt mixed in with the undercoating you will only need touchups after that.
Hey Shawn! Thanks for stopping by! What are your thoughts on my coolant and brake fluid interval?
solid plan
Thanks Mango… but only time will tell…
@ hi Wicked, great to see you again! Fortunately, I do have a really good independent mechanic I go to. Perhaps I go to them for the radiator flush. I heard for the brake flush, there is a dealership specific computer that is required for a flush. Let me try to find a video link.
@ check this out:
ua-cam.com/video/03O_r8qAGWc/v-deo.htmlsi=daonh7zWcc3SJft0
That’s a good service plan! for me I plan on doing all fluids (not oil) before 50k some at dealer and some at home
Hey thanks man! Good to “see” you again. Do you plan on doing radiator fluid at home?
@ I’m on the fence for that one depending upon on how much the dealer rips me off for lol.
@ hahaha let me know how it goes for you. In Minnesota, they want ~$159.95.
11 years and 250k miles into a similar journey with my 2014 gmc sierra - super cool to see someone vlogging theirs.
Hi Jasnik! Thanks for stopping by! That’s a long way to go! Let’s see what the future holds for both of our journeys. Let me know if there’s anything you have done that helped get you to 250K.
5.3 sierra??
6.2 - so basically yeah haha
Over the years I’ve made some changes for reliability:
1. Transmission thermostat delete
2. Trans cooler
3. Oil catch can
4. Change diff/trans/TC fluid annually (esp with lower temps)
5. Change oil at 40-50% life indicated (3-6k miles depending on driving style)
6. Fluid film / corrosion inhibitors every fall
7. Generally following extreme duty maintenance schedule
Probably more but this is what I credit to getting this far largely problem free.
8. AT 205 reseal spray annually on rubber components
9. Tried a nano ceramic coating on the engine (RVS - I think)
10. Grapheme Ceramic coat with maintenance by graphene rich soap
Subbed! I just bought a 2019 f150 with the 3.3L NA v6 with cash and I plan on taking this simple motor to some high mileage also so I’ll be staying tuned in
@Tony_Seed hi Tony, thanks for stopping by! And thanks for the sub. I’ll do my best to not let you down! 😅 my channel is all over the place, but it is all in someway tied back to my truck.
PLEASE get a catch can best thing you can do to prevent blow by in the intake and most importantly prevent spark plug fowling and mis fires.
@@user-yy4cf2dw3f I have one :)
Restore and protect seems like a weird choice. I understood it as a use to fix an issue not as preventative maintenance, but if they said it’s ok the you should be good. Project farms testing showed Amsoil was best, with penzoil ultra platinum in 2nd. Gear oil I suggest Amsoil, nothing wrong with motorcraft but Amsoil makes the best products. Radiator flush is not needed at 65k. Replace the coolant every 5 years or 100K miles whatever comes first and your ahead of 80% of car owners. Gasoline is something i think you have right. My dad uses premium gasoline for his 2008 Yaris and oil changes every 5K. It’s at 537K miles currently. Started burning oil past 500K. Used Restore and protect the last 2 oil changes and oil burning has gotten worse. Not an issue of the Oil the engine was probably too far gone. As your engine is turbocharged the early oil changes are probably the best. Valvoline makes good stuff so your trans fluid is good and the interval. Engine air filter use wix project farm and another channel (that I can’t remember the name of) tested air filters. Eid came out on top with filtering and K&N as bottom for filtering. Brake fluid I have done with the rotors. Unless over 5 years. Paint protection film works well if your welling to spend that kinda money. Rust prevention I wouldn’t know down here in California. The issue here is the sun eating the clear coat and everything else.
All in all seems like a pretty good plan.
@@PedroFerrer-vq5sw hi Pedro, thanks for stopping by! First of all, thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts! This is very helpful info! What are your thoughts on additives like Seafoam, STP, etc?
Ceramic coat your paint. DIY Detail have some nice coatings that are easy to apply. I also recommend AMSOIL fluids for it too, they're the best in the industry. I would use 75W-140 in the rear diff, as the new thin stuff is just to squeeze more fuel economy. Good luck on 500k. I have 227k on my '15 5.0L.
@@mr.3phase228 hey there! Thanks for stopping by. I put ceramic from a spray bottle on it, but haven’t used the more expensive stuff. I’m considering it though! Regarding the rear diff viscosity… I just worry about it causing issues with the warranty I have. What are your thoughts?
@MidwestF150 they won't know the difference, and it will avoid needing to do a warranty repair in the first place.
@@mr.3phase228 I’ll think more about it! Thanks for the tip
use Amsoil and change it every 3000 miles
Thanks for the tip, Dan!
Good plan 🙏. I’m going to be adding a can of LiquiMoly Ceratec on my next oil change to see if it makes a difference. If it likes it I plan on using it every 20k miles
@@Horvath0819 I’ve never used that before. But from other videos I’ve watched, there is concern about it clogging filters because of how well it works. I’m not a car expert!
@@MidwestF150 are you referring to their engine flush or the Ceratec? The Ceratec is basically an oil additive that helps with friction in the engine
@@Horvath0819now that you mentioned, I think it had to do with a flush.
@@MidwestF150 yeah I’m scared to do the flushes lol. I just plan to change the oil often to keep it clean
@ same!! I have never done it before.
On turbo engines, spark plugs should be replaced every 30,000 - 45,000 miles. On brakes, Motorcraft is not OEM on Ford. The OEM brake pads on Ford are far better than Motorcraft brake pads.
Oooo good information right here! Why 30-45k? More than happy to update the numbers on my spreadsheet, just looking to understand more.
When looking for brakes, do I just look specifically for Ford-branded brakes? It’s honestly been confusing looking for it haha
I think 2500 mile oil changes are extreme... I do full synthetic every 3500 to 4000. 5000 miles is probably still safe. I would drop the transmission oil change to every 35,000 and rear differential to 50,000... that advice from a friend and transmission shop owner in business for over 40 years.
Thanks Town! I’ll think more about this. Would your OCI recommendation change at all in a turbocharged vs naturally aspirated?
@@MidwestF150 Yes, all my mechanics tell me oil in turbo engines get dirty faster.. gotta keep that oil clean to extend life span of the turbos which are not NOT cheap to replace. 3000 mile oil changes with full synthetic oil changes is really good. I stretch mine to 3500 to 4000 because most of my driving is highway miles... about 20,000 miles a year!
@@glocktown21 my truck is turbocharged and I am in a lot of stop/go traffic and do short trips mainly. This is why I leaned towards 2500 miles.
@@MidwestF150
Yes, short trips harder on oil. Best thing you can do with that mileage goal is oil samples it takes all the guess work and speculation out of it. Motor oil geek has great info on oil. And check his collab with powerstroke maintenance channel. He did a 11k mile sample on his 6.7 diesel and the oil was still good. Well worth the money. Everyone’s optimal oil change interval is different.
@ thanks for tip here!
Change your oil as much as you want. You are still going to need to change the variable valve timing actuators driven by the timing chains ⛓️💥
Try to budget $1000 a year for curveball repairs… shocks / seals/ sunroof repairs/ APIM module / cam phasers on the intake or exhaust.
Brake fluid can be sucked out of the master cylinder every two years and avoids the computer and can keep costs down while still keeping the water out of the lines. (Turkey Baster / fluid extraction tool ) are way more cost effective than the ford dealership.
YMMV BEST OF LUCK WITH 500,000 MILES
@@BRADLEY_RYAN hi Bradley! Thanks for stopping by!! Thank you so much for the advice!! Please keep them coming as you learn more, I would appreciate it!!
Even though you use top tier gasoline should you include a fuel system cleaner like Redline?
@@bozerbrett7867 that’s what I’m also wondering… what are your thoughts?
@@MidwestF150I’m going to add it to my maintenance schedule, maybe a few hundred miles before every oil change.
@@bozerbrett7867 I haven’t decided on this. With how computerized these trucks are nowadays, with sensors and such, I don’t want to test my luck on this.
@@MidwestF150 I hear you on that! There's a lot of good reviews online for Redline fuel system cleaner, I'll let you know if my dash lights up like a Christmas tree after I try it.
It should be pretty easy my 2019 Silverado 1500 5.3L NBS is at 300,000 miles with no problem so pretty sure every ford truck or ram should be able to do it
@@paypay969 thanks for stopping by! Appreciate the positivity! What were some of the things you had done to get your truck to 300k miles?
@ oil change, on the 2nd set of shocks was told to never do a transmission fluid change and it’s working out pretty fine
@ that’s really interesting! Why were you told to not change the transmission fluid? Is there a reason behind it?
@ well apparently some people believe it’s bad for the transmission and it just fails prematurely
I’m trying to understand but might need to do more research
Plan, should have done it then showed us >.>
@@domw1111 my hope is that one day I will be able to!