Fall Beekeeping Preparing for Winter Part 1
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2017
- This is part 1 of me talking about the fall management of my honey bee colonies. Specifically as it relates to the management of single brood chambers. It's a lot of me talking, I apologize. I've been grinding lately and haven't been able to get much footage. But there's not much to show anyway. Just think about how you need to manage mites.
Part 2 will be shorter and just focus a bit on feeding the colonies.
UofG video for winter preps: • Feeding Bees and Overw...
Treatment Recommendations for Ontario Canada: www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/f...
Apidologie article. Guzman et al, 2010: www.apidologie.org/articles/a... - Наука та технологія
Please, no need to apologise for long talking videos. Those of us watching are very interested to know how you are managing your bees and what is working. We need options to what might work for us. If you don't talk and tell how will we learn. Thank you for pointing out other sources for info.
Watched a few of your videos, thanks for all your time
This was very interesting and well explained. I look forward to seeing part 2. Thanks for posting.
Thank for all your info!
You know a lot about beekeeping and I am learning just starting out. Thank you
Thanks mate. Love your videos and explanations.
Thanks for your great videos, they are the closest management videos to my climate here in Wisconsin and they have been very helpful , Keep up the great work , and Thanks again !
We have been also putting videos together in River Falls, WI. We are running single brood chambers as well.
Great videos. I'm a new keeper in NB Canada and will be trying your single deep method. Very happy to have found someone relatively close to me as most videos I've found are from the southern USA. Look forward to more videos. Thanks.
Very good ,very very good, in my book you are a very good beekeeper , i work beekeeping in 3 continents in my life in usa Africa Europe my compliment .
I'm in Ontario too, and you've inspired me to try single brood chamber next year!!! Thanks for the great videos!!
How did it go?
@@shannjill great. I’ve been running singles ever since. I’ll never go back.
Lyndsay Henderson Wow! What state do you live in?
@@shannjill I live in Ontario, in Canada.
Lyndsay Henderson How is it there these days? Trudeau is scary.
Really appreciate this video! I was just doing research online after studying multiple books and was considering the best option for success during winter for my late swarmed colony would be a "weak hive" combination with the stronger. I recall doing much research on Thomas D. Seeley's work where he is also an advocate for small brood beekeeping. I feel like being in Oregon, with you in Canada this could be the best approach. Thanks so much! Looking forward to continuing research and checking back on everyone's updates!
Very informative videos, I like your attitude in explaining things.
I’m not a beekeeper, but I would love to have couple of colonies for a small hobby, I’m also in Ontario and I would love to visit a beekeeper and learn something in person, just don’t know where to look for it, or if anyone allows visitors to see their bees.
Thanks
Your videos are very informative.
thanks for taking the time to explain. Longer is better for those of us that are slow ;)
We in Europe,especialy east Europe do this way for more than 100yr...great educational video for USA...exellent work love your videos...
Can you please do a video on how you control mites, moths and beetles. I’ve read all the standard stuff, just curious how you do it. Really enjoy your videos! Thanks for doing them!
Overwintering in single hives was taught as a taboo to me by my mentor. He was a pollinator in New Jersey. He was taught and taught me that overwintering has more success in two deeps or three mediums (depending on your preference). He also told me to keep an open mind because there are so many different ways to manage hives for winter. I've overwintered nucleus colonies in four frames. I've done double nucleus colonies with four frames over four frames. I want to try the single hive body this winter with a few of my hives and see how that goes. I'm not putting all my eggs in one basket in the event they don't pull through from some mistake of my doing. My concern is we are damp here in winter and maybe our bees need more space for food? Thoughts?
It amazes me that in Canada where it's really cold in winter the beekeepers are able to overwinter colonies.
Congratulations on your system.
I don't think people realize how important it is to treat for mites, my hives got infested last year so I went with the vapor treatment with oxalic acid, great vid, this year my bees had none from my packages, and just about a month ago I noticed a few so I treated, I plan on treating again in Oct.
Sub'd 1334, you have more than proven your worth by your care of the bees and excellent broad field of knowledge application. I highly recommend any new bee keeper heading your advice and management style. Take care and looking forward to watching your channel grow.
Devan, Like your channel, keep them coming. I would like to know where to get the nifty hive tool holder that you wear on your belt. It looks more convenient than a pocket, especially when not wearing a bee suit with a hive tool pocket. (keep that propolis out of your clothes)
Thanks for this video. I have been going to change over my hives to single brood boxes . Each season I say I am going to try it i chicken out BUT I know I will have a better honey crop by doing it . By running yours in single brood do you have to add more Emergency food like sugar bricks to get them through winter ??. I live in NC an most of the time we have a fairly warm winter an my bees still get in a lot of flights so they are using up there food stores so by me switching to singles I fill that I would have to add even more Emergency food . THANKS
Hi. Just wondering if you could maybe do a video of the specific flowers bees like and use the most. I'm planning on planting a field with the flowers they like. Thanks.
This is a great idea. I sort of tried (and failed) to get enough footage of that sort back in July. Off the top of my head I know I get a lot of honey from; Basswood trees, apple trees, milkweed, dandelion, goldenrod. Forage crops like white clover, bird's foot trefoil, alfalfa. And field crops of canola. I will try to make a video on this topic some day.
I love learning other methods to bee management. Example, my mentor who was a pollinator (a good one at that) told me never to overwinter the bees in singles. The other rule he gave me was to never overwinter bees in nucs. Well? I've been overwintering bees in nucs for a number of years now and am starting to run single deep hives for this upcoming season. My advice is to alway look at other ways. Try them with a couple of hives. If you like it and it works for your area then maybe do more of it.
great vid, good to have someone with the same climate as mine (southern Quebec). I've been bee keeping bees for several years now, so there is still lots to learn. Do you overwinter any nucs and would it be possible for you make a video on how you do it. One more thing have you ever explored the slovenian hive (A-Z hive) . I'm retired and build my own equipment anyways and will be giving it try next season, no more heavy lifting for me.
Thank you so much for this information. I am a hobby beekeeper and am very interested in going to the one chamber brood box system. What process do you recommend to downsize from 2 to 1 for winter? I live in Northern Wisconsin (USA) so our winters see cold weather. Many people around here lose bees every winter. I was successful one year and not the next. I did notice that one box was essentially empty when I winterized them. Also in colder weather, do the bees stop making brood? It is so good to see information from a colder climate. Thanks again.
Yes, bees will stop raising brood in our winters because they have to cluster tightly to conserve heat and there are no resources for them to feed to developing brood. The easiest way to make singles out of your doubles is to split them in half. If you don't want to run twice as many hives get to them as early as possible in the spring and consolidate all the important frames (frames with brood, significant amount of stored food) into one box and brush all your bees into it.
Rather than feeding them if they didnt have enough honey stores down in the brood chamber, couldnt you just take a couple full honey frames from one of the supers and move em down?
How many gallons from August 1 (when I pull my honey) to the beginning of sugar brick feeding would you expect to feed if your 10 frame hive was pretty empty on stores.
any chance one could buy a copy of that magazine? Ontario Bee Journal?? Today is Nov 25, 2021
very interesting method. one question...fop or dapper dan??
I switched to two medium supers for brood chambers about two years ago. My dad is 72 and still beekeeping. He can't lift the deep boxes any more. Love the idea of single deep. How would you recommend switching from 2 mediums to one deep?
I know this video is from a while ago, but do you possibly have a link to an online version of the Les Eccles article you mention?
I’m in Australia.
cool video! pretty much 90% of italian beekeepers work with single chamber. thanks
Hi Devan, we’re new beekeepers in Ontario. Is it necessary to feed the bees pollen in the fall/winter?
So, what do you do with the honey supers when they are full of bees? I have problem reducing my hives because of the bee population. Where do all these extra bees go when you reduce back down to one box, or single brood chamber?
What do you do underneath the hive to help them survive winter? Nothing but screen & thin white board?
Thanks for the great vids
You hit on a few things very important but understated
A homogeneous bee acclimated to your local environment you said decades of breeding, in essence the bees have become a sub species with learned environmental inputs, and probably a few genetic switches. Good for you folks!
Are you using a northern bee line such as carnica?
The fuel needs of lower progeny races is far less than an Italian
I am curious about the flooding of the brood box, when they surely could be laying through October hatching well into end November, so question is do you get some October swarms?, and do you see additional brood after the syrup is processed later on say early November.
Wrapping and docking hives to share common walls for winter, say on a pallet 4 hives like in Alberta?
Are the feedings drum filled or do you get a up tote and fill barrels as needed per yard requirements?
Did I see you are running 9 f in 10 f boxes or was that just for the vid and you loosened frames open.
Can we get you to come on a podcast with our sideliners some evening in winter?
Thanks again, well done
Tom
When I harvest honey from colonies. Bee shocked always and dicided to decrease population. Nearly half on bees kiling each other. When I take honey I put sugar cake and tymol syrup inside hive. Tymol cure nosema cerena 2 time weekly period.
You have a healthiest bees I've ever seen do you sell package bees
so you are saying you want to see about 4 full frames of 10 frames of capped honey.
So you do not leave a box of honey on for them over winter ??
Is that article on single brood box management available online for those of us who are not OBJ subscribers?
Hey Devan, I am really enjoying your videos! I am a hobbiest and new to the beekeeping world. Quick question...what part of Ontario do you live in? I live in the state of Utah and it seems that our seasons are very similar. I really like you the single brood chamber idea for its ease of managing the hive and keeping it healthy. My biggest question is if they will survive the winter here. How long are your winters? How cold does it get? I am sure you get snow, right?
Feeding hives can be expensive. As of this date March 1 2019 the cheapest sugar I can find is $1.03/ kg. If one has 10 hives, the need to feed equals 18 litres. Thats 180 litres total. To get a 2:1 ratio you need 156.60 kg of sugar X $1.03 = $161. 52. Instead of pulling the supers off in Sept. can you not pull them off mid Aug. and let the bees fill their reserves through to October?
Thanks Devan!
1. Can you link your mentor's article?
2. How do you fit the bee population from many boxes into just one?
how cold are your winters?
No need for mite treatment in Australia. They have no mites there.
How many bee hive do you have?
Do you run deeps only for supers?
Where in the video can I see you planking on hives? Planking is so 2011...
LOL! I can make custom thumbnails now, so it's not in the video. You could accuse me of clickbaiting, but I'm trying to attract a younger audience and I didn't have a fidget spinner to show. Planking was awesome and should make a comeback!
New beekeeper here...if you notice higher level of mites early into the season, do you pull all your honey supers off and treat? If so, how long do you wait to put the supers back on again? P.S.- I just binge watched every one of your videos, some of the best ones I've found. Keep it up.
If mites caught me off guard and were critically high when I had honey supers on, I would strongly consider using a product that is registered for use with honey supers (most countries have the formic acid product mite-away quick strips registered this way). any other products will have label directions for a "withdrawal period" which tells you how long you have to wait before adding honey supers. For example Apivar says 2 weeks after the end of the treatment period you can add honey supers.
If there is no honey in the outside frames of the remaining brood chamber, could you simply put two full frames of honey from the supers in there to feed them over winter instead of feeding sugar water?
YES
David Jones I don’t think those two frames were intended to carry the colony over all the way through winter. They were intended to put off the requirement to be fed syrup right away. If they are not there, then you should immediately start feeding syrup. But if they are there you can hold off feeding syrup for a little while, but you still will need to feed syrup in order to build up stores for winter.
I agree with this approach...but not sure how it's done since most of his Brood boxes are 10Frame Deeps and his Supers are Mediums. The frames are not interchangeable - right? So only choice would be to load on the sugar syrup feeder I'd guess
do you make a profit with beekeeping?
What is the temp in Canada in your area and do you have long periods of cold during the winter?
Robert Hilton yes it’s freezing cold here, in southern Ontario in the winter. It gets cold from mid October to mid April. It get really cold mid November to mid March.
Mite treatment Randy Olivers way ?? what do you do?
"Randy Oliver's way" - I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to. Randy has tested and used nearly every mite control method available to him over the years. If you're referring to the current shop towel-oxalic-glycerin trend, no, I haven't used it.
My answer to this question, as always, is I use Integrated Pest Management. I monitor mite levels and make a decision based on seasonal timing, pest levels, how I plan to manage my bees over the next few months, etc. Good beekeepers keep an open mind, stay aware of all the products and management techniques available for reducing mites and make their own decision based on a detailed understanding of what's going on in THEIR OWN hives.
I don't want no FOP dammit, I'm a Dapper Dan man!
Try to use 20 drops of Tee Tree Oil and 10 drops of Winter Green Oil blanded in 5 liter sugar water.
Why? It's not proven that any of this is beneficial for bees. I've heard it from so many beekeepers. It's as big a waste of money as those healthy hive products sold by the suppliers. If you have any scientific proof that this works can you post if so I can read the information.
@@beebob1279 There are quite a few essential oils that are anti fungal. My new nuc broke out with chalkcomb after being installed in a hive. I went searching the net, and came across a paper. I made up a solution of 100 ml of water, 20 drops of Mountain Pepper (May Chang) essential oil and 1 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar to act at an emulsifier. Used it as a spray bottle on top of the frames, on the baseboard after clearing it of mummies, and sprayed the entrance, also sprayed in front of the hive to kill any fungus on the ground. As an added measure, did the banana cut in half on top of the frames. Seems to have come good and I am really happy with the results. here is a link to the paper: www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1319562X16300547
My interpretation with the banana is that the ethylene gas given off by the banana fumigates the hive, and affects the chalkbrood. But that mountain pepper essential oil is the real fungal killer. Spray it on the baseboard real heavily, so that it beads. bees walking through it track it up through the hive, and hopefully into affected areas.
@@iangodfrey4518 So, you basically cleaned up the frame before treating it with essential oils? Then how do you know the oils worked? Requeen with Chalkbrood and they will clean it up.
@@beebob1279 Where did you get the idea that I cleaned up the frame before hand? I found the chalkbrood infestation, then sprayed with the liquid for treatment. Read the paper in the link for the efficacy of the oils. They are antifungal. But do not spray neat.
Oxalic acid