I would like to thank you for putting this on youtube. I have been having trouble with the thinnest back cut and I applied what was shown here and no more issues. The more full back cuts are now no problem. Thanks Again👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I recently purchased Poolology and would like to offer a suggestion. I use the center and left & right edges of my cue stick for aiming. Many examples of this can be found online. I use a numbering system for the different alignments. A #1 is a straight on shot, #2 edge of the ferrule aligned with the center line of the object ball, #3 = ¼ ball hit, #4 edge of the ferrule aligned with the inside edge of the object ball, #5 = ½ ball hit, #6 edge of the ferrule aligned with the outside edge of the object ball, there is also a #7. If you were to replace the cubes of chalks with numbers (I use playing cards), you can quickly determine that I am using a #5 and know that’s a half ball hit or a #3-a ¼ ball hit. I will even visually split my ferrule for those in between shots.
@@jimmythestick2425 thanks! I adopted a similar number method and put it in my newest book, "Playing to Win". The only difference is that I use 0 for a straight-in, zero angle shot. What I might do is add a diagram to the Poolology book to show how the fractional aiming references can be numbered 0 thru 7 for easy cut angle references. So when the system indicates that a 3/8" cut is required, the player would know it's a #5 aim (if straight in is 0). Using your method (calling straight in a #1), the 3/8 aim would be a #6. I like the simple numbering, but there was not an easy way to have the Poolology system provide a simple number, other than to add a diagram to show how the simple numbering corresponds to the actual system fractions.
Yes! The ob is at about 52 or 53. So if the cb-ob were aligned near 26 on that end rail it woukd be a 1/2 ball shot. But the alignment is about 38, which makes it a 1/4 ball shot.
Like at 5:12 on the video what are you lining up to determine what kind of hit you want? I understand all about the 1/2, 1/8 ball , 3/8 aiming spots it’s just that 6 ball on the table tell me how your figuring it out.
i started to understand but i got confuse after u move the chalk and redid it at 5:18 how do u know where half the value is when u lay the first chalk down
Hulk Smash .......it's based on the position value of the object ball. If the ball is positioned on 44, for example, then my rail value for a 1/2 ball shot would be 22. The Poolology book contains all the values. It's available in print or download here: www.lulu.com/spotlight/Poolology. It's also available on Amazon.
I just buy the book! I just start to figured out how the system works! When U aiming you say, I need to imagine for example 3 tips of the cue, is the same if I just aiming on the dimonts system??
There really is no comparison, as the two systems are completely different. Poolology is a straight-forward, fractional approach to aiming. You simply look at where the cb needs to be and then shoot. CTE uses the basic fractional quarters as references, not as direct aiming points. With CTE you use 2 lines (cb center to ob edge and cb edge to one of the basic fractional quarters) to get your body in position for the shot. Stan calls this the "perception". You must recognize, based on experience, which perception to use for the shot, and from here (from the position your body and eyes are in) you look directly at center cb, which Stan calls a "fixed" cb. You then decide, based on your experience, whether or not the shot looks like it would come off too thick or too thin it shot directly from this "fixed" cb view. Then you pivot or sweep from a halftip offset (from left or right of this fixed center cb view) to thin or thicken the shot as required, arriving at a final aim line to pocket the ball. With Poolology you determine which fractional aim will pocket the ball, then you shoot the cb directly at that aim point.
The system outlined in the book (Poolology - Mastering the Art of Aiming) is for cut shots, not straight in shots where the aim is obvious. If a player has trouble making straight in shots then no system will help for cut shots until the player can actually become consistent at sending the cb to where it is being aimed.
Brian what your showing now on this video, if we buy the kindle version will it teach us what your showing us now? Or do we have to buy the book? You know the only way I get to figure out what kind of shot we have is using my cue stick pull it back 1inch and pivot and then asking my self if it a 1/4 5/8 or whatever so here is my 2nd question in order to read the table like you will the kindle teach us that, or do we need the book? Thank you
A stun/sliding cue ball causes the most throw, so that's when you'd have to compensate for it. Bottom/draw or top spin won't throw the ball off much. Side spin will squirt the cb off line too. There's definitely some compensation in aiming that must occur on shots where english or stun must be used.
But do you have an easy way to teach a two or a three APA, skill level aiming because I tell them master top to bottom center ball but long shots make them ask why just top to bottom why no English.
You tell them correctly, that using only top, middle, and bottom on the cue ball ensures it will go where they intend it to go. Especially on longer shots, side spin will cause a lot of misses. Knowing where the cue ball needs to be in order to send the object to the pocket is the basics of aiming. I think the Poologogy system I am showing here is a great way to learn that. When it comes to applying english, however, the player must develop a good feel for their cue stick to know exactly how the english will affect the aim. The easiest way to adjust your aiming when using english is to use backhand style english. (Aim the shot as if you're going to shoot it with no side spin, then slightly pivot your cue left or right to apply the spin/english). This works well with most cues, but you have to experiment with it to get consistent results.
I came up with a system that assigns a position value to the ball. Knowing the position value of the ball, and then looking to see where on the rail (using the diamonds) the ball would hit if you aligned to shoot it straight on (a full ball hit), you get another value. The ratio between these two values tells you which fractional aim point is needed to pocket the ball. This method takes the guesswork out of traditional fractional aiming. I wrote a book to share it with others, but also to hopefully make a little extra money to help cover some of the costs of alternative cancer treatments for my wife. It's called "Poolology -- Mastering the Art of Aiming". The download/ebook is less than $10, and I think Amazon or Lulu.com has the printed books on sale for around $15 to $18.
@@wischegg, thanks for watching. Some of my videos have nothing to do with the Poolology book, but this UA-cam channel was originally created to provide real examples for those that have the book. I will be adding more videos of various shots that are not specifically about Poolology.
Stan Shuffett's book should be hitting the market one of these years, then cte might be a realistic option for the many players that just haven't been able to figure it out over the last dozen years.
I trust poology system in this video using his shaft as gauge. Im also using my shaft as gauge we just have a different style. This system shown in the video is much better than CTE
@@juanball5480 , thank you very much. It appears the CTE clan members are branching out from the AZ Billiards website. It seems they are making their way here to attack legitimate aiming techniques in an effort to make CTE look like a better option. I say to each their own. If you like CTE then use it, and if you don't like it use something else.
@@Poolology101 Stan Shuffet tries to teach CTE on UA-cam and I've watched him instruct on the system. I hate to say this because he's probably a great person but he is not gifted at all in when it comes to teaching CTE. Maybe he has some new stuff out by now that is better but if you'll notice Stan has the comments disabled on his instructional videos. He most likely got tired of all the negative comments regarding how well he instructs pocket billiards. In the CTE video that watched a while ago he did not prepare at all. He basically just kept saying the same things over and over while he shot balls in. And the things he was saying made little or no sense. Good instructors spend at least a little time preparing lessons and trying to figure out the best way to explain precepts to students.
@@BladeRunner-td8be i concur he is so confusing..makes my head spin..and yes its everyones right to teach, but those who do please get a idea of how to...spreading gibirish is a waste of time...thanks for time in making videos
I would like to thank you for putting this on youtube. I have been having trouble with the thinnest back cut and I applied what was shown here and no more issues. The more full back cuts are now no problem. Thanks Again👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you. Glad you got some benefit from the video.
I recently purchased Poolology and would like to offer a suggestion. I use the center and left & right edges of my cue stick for aiming. Many examples of this can be found online. I use a numbering system for the different alignments. A #1 is a straight on shot, #2 edge of the ferrule aligned with the center line of the object ball, #3 = ¼ ball hit, #4 edge of the ferrule aligned with the inside edge of the object ball, #5 = ½ ball hit, #6 edge of the ferrule aligned with the outside edge of the object ball, there is also a #7.
If you were to replace the cubes of chalks with numbers (I use playing cards), you can quickly determine that I am using a #5 and know that’s a half ball hit or a #3-a ¼ ball hit. I will even visually split my ferrule for those in between shots.
@@jimmythestick2425 thanks! I adopted a similar number method and put it in my newest book, "Playing to Win". The only difference is that I use 0 for a straight-in, zero angle shot.
What I might do is add a diagram to the Poolology book to show how the fractional aiming references can be numbered 0 thru 7 for easy cut angle references. So when the system indicates that a 3/8" cut is required, the player would know it's a #5 aim (if straight in is 0). Using your method (calling straight in a #1), the 3/8 aim would be a #6.
I like the simple numbering, but there was not an easy way to have the Poolology system provide a simple number, other than to add a diagram to show how the simple numbering corresponds to the actual system fractions.
Great System, Your Videos And Your Book Poolology Speak For How Well And Easy You Have Made Aiming Shots Correctly In Pool, Thanks.
Thank you!
Brian check back tonight for my question on this video I have to go now. Thankyou
Is that an alignment value of around 38 in the shot at 6:13 ?
Yes! The ob is at about 52 or 53. So if the cb-ob were aligned near 26 on that end rail it woukd be a 1/2 ball shot. But the alignment is about 38, which makes it a 1/4 ball shot.
Like at 5:12 on the video what are you lining up to determine what kind of hit you want? I understand all about the 1/2, 1/8 ball , 3/8 aiming spots it’s just that 6 ball on the table tell me how your figuring it out.
His system using the shaft as gauge is much much better than CTE and in this system it's very easy to use precise English shots
i started to understand but i got confuse after u move the chalk and redid it at 5:18 how do u know where half the value is when u lay the first chalk down
Hulk Smash .......it's based on the position value of the object ball. If the ball is positioned on 44, for example, then my rail value for a 1/2 ball shot would be 22. The Poolology book contains all the values. It's available in print or download here: www.lulu.com/spotlight/Poolology.
It's also available on Amazon.
I just buy the book! I just start to figured out how the system works! When U aiming you say, I need to imagine for example 3 tips of the cue, is the same if I just aiming on the dimonts system??
I don't understand the question because I don't know the diamond system for aiming.
@@Poolology101 yes, now I understand!! Can you make a video with side pockets shots??
Here is a side pocket video...ua-cam.com/video/SJqFn7_bk0o/v-deo.html
I will try to find time to do another one.
Good.. How do you compare your book /system with Stan Shuffet and his CTE?
There really is no comparison, as the two systems are completely different. Poolology is a straight-forward, fractional approach to aiming. You simply look at where the cb needs to be and then shoot.
CTE uses the basic fractional quarters as references, not as direct aiming points. With CTE you use 2 lines (cb center to ob edge and cb edge to one of the basic fractional quarters) to get your body in position for the shot. Stan calls this the "perception". You must recognize, based on experience, which perception to use for the shot, and from here (from the position your body and eyes are in) you look directly at center cb, which Stan calls a "fixed" cb. You then decide, based on your experience, whether or not the shot looks like it would come off too thick or too thin it shot directly from this "fixed" cb view. Then you pivot or sweep from a halftip offset (from left or right of this fixed center cb view) to thin or thicken the shot as required, arriving at a final aim line to pocket the ball.
With Poolology you determine which fractional aim will pocket the ball, then you shoot the cb directly at that aim point.
@@Poolology101 Awesome... I am using a table with no diamonds! ...my approach is 4D and intuitive.. but fractional is good to.. cheers from NZ 👍🇳🇿
@@allgood6760 no diamonds would make Poolology a bit trickier to work....Lol
This is alignment values for back shots...what about for straight shots or littlebut angle
The system outlined in the book (Poolology - Mastering the Art of Aiming) is for cut shots, not straight in shots where the aim is obvious. If a player has trouble making straight in shots then no system will help for cut shots until the player can actually become consistent at sending the cb to where it is being aimed.
Brian what your showing now on this video, if we buy the kindle version will it teach us what your showing us now? Or do we have to buy the book? You know the only way I get to figure out what kind of shot we have is using my cue stick pull it back 1inch and pivot and then asking my self if it a 1/4 5/8 or whatever so here is my 2nd question in order to read the table like you will the kindle teach us that, or do we need the book? Thank you
Yes, the kindle version is the same as the printed version of the book.
You came close to scratching on a few. What about putting bottoms are throw or rub. What happens to your aim?
A stun/sliding cue ball causes the most throw, so that's when you'd have to compensate for it. Bottom/draw or top spin won't throw the ball off much. Side spin will squirt the cb off line too. There's definitely some compensation in aiming that must occur on shots where english or stun must be used.
But do you have an easy way to teach a two or a three APA, skill level aiming because I tell them master top to bottom center ball but long shots make them ask why just top to bottom why no English.
You tell them correctly, that using only top, middle, and bottom on the cue ball ensures it will go where they intend it to go. Especially on longer shots, side spin will cause a lot of misses. Knowing where the cue ball needs to be in order to send the object to the pocket is the basics of aiming. I think the Poologogy system I am showing here is a great way to learn that. When it comes to applying english, however, the player must develop a good feel for their cue stick to know exactly how the english will affect the aim. The easiest way to adjust your aiming when using english is to use backhand style english. (Aim the shot as if you're going to shoot it with no side spin, then slightly pivot your cue left or right to apply the spin/english). This works well with most cues, but you have to experiment with it to get consistent results.
How do you know that’s a 1/2 ball hit you just threw the ball on the table, I’m getting lost there!
I came up with a system that assigns a position value to the ball. Knowing the position value of the ball, and then looking to see where on the rail (using the diamonds) the ball would hit if you aligned to shoot it straight on (a full ball hit), you get another value. The ratio between these two values tells you which fractional aim point is needed to pocket the ball. This method takes the guesswork out of traditional fractional aiming. I wrote a book to share it with others, but also to hopefully make a little extra money to help cover some of the costs of alternative cancer treatments for my wife. It's called "Poolology -- Mastering the Art of Aiming". The download/ebook is less than $10, and I think Amazon or Lulu.com has the printed books on sale for around $15 to $18.
Do u have some email to contact with u!!
i need translate to Persian. please
Sorry for my last
Why do not put your camera behind the object ball ? ... You see something...we see another thing ...
I'll be recording a few videos with a head cam. This particular video references the pieces of chalk on the end rail.
Understood now. Have to buy the book. :-) it's ok. It's a sample. Anyway, great videos.
@@wischegg, thanks for watching. Some of my videos have nothing to do with the Poolology book, but this UA-cam channel was originally created to provide real examples for those that have the book. I will be adding more videos of various shots that are not specifically about Poolology.
Fractional aiming is for cavemen. Perception and cte is where its at
Stan Shuffett's book should be hitting the market one of these years, then cte might be a realistic option for the many players that just haven't been able to figure it out over the last dozen years.
I trust poology system in this video using his shaft as gauge. Im also using my shaft as gauge we just have a different style. This system shown in the video is much better than CTE
@@juanball5480 , thank you very much. It appears the CTE clan members are branching out from the AZ Billiards website. It seems they are making their way here to attack legitimate aiming techniques in an effort to make CTE look like a better option. I say to each their own. If you like CTE then use it, and if you don't like it use something else.
@@Poolology101 Stan Shuffet tries to teach CTE on UA-cam and I've watched him instruct on the system. I hate to say this because he's probably a great person but he is not gifted at all in when it comes to teaching CTE. Maybe he has some new stuff out by now that is better but if you'll notice Stan has the comments disabled on his instructional videos. He most likely got tired of all the negative comments regarding how well he instructs pocket billiards. In the CTE video that watched a while ago he did not prepare at all. He basically just kept saying the same things over and over while he shot balls in. And the things he was saying made little or no sense. Good instructors spend at least a little time preparing lessons and trying to figure out the best way to explain precepts to students.
@@BladeRunner-td8be i concur he is so confusing..makes my head spin..and yes its everyones right to teach, but those who do please get a idea of how to...spreading gibirish is a waste of time...thanks for time in making videos
Are you confused yet.