This is a very informative and well made video. I think the saw test cutting a portion in half then again in half is a great practice for new woodworkers and those who do not saw very well.
Interesting, I recently bought one of those saws 12 months or so after that video was made and the rake has definitely changed insofar as it came out of the box good to go, maybe the manufacturer took note of your video, great site thanks to both of you😊
Hello, Mr. Rogers; I'm quite impressed w/ your saw knowledge. Also, your dovetail sawing tips are quite good & I very much appreciate them. But, apparently, saw handles are fairly easy to change. Lay out the pattern, rough it in including the pilot holes, mount the handle & drill the holes. Finish the handle. I watched this because of Mr. Graham's recommendation & he was right. I sharpened my 1st about '69 & I've sharpened saws only when absolutely necessary so I don't know saws like you do. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. This video is 'Liked' & I'll be watching to see what else you can teach this old dog. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
So that's why boutique makers exist and are doing so well. I must say, while there is always diminishing returns the more you spend just as a Bugatti is only marginally faster in the 1/4 to a hoped up used Mustang. Where in life can you buy the best of the best in a lifetime investment for only a $200 premium? And over a lifetime (and likely the next few) that premium amortizes out to next to nothing. Nicer tools are coveted and that ego boost/enjoyment is worth something.
Yeah, but you forgot to tell him that you sent him a right-handed gent saw, and he appears to be left-handed... LOL I'm going to work on buying better saws (not the ultra-cheap ones with hardened teeth), so that I can sharpen them myself, and then start sharpening them and setting them to fine-tune them. Thanks to both of you, although I have to wonder if there will be a "Round 2" video, after the $20 saw has been properly set???
Not unless someone else makes it because I'm going to reset it and then give it away. I doubt anyone would notice a difference anyway. Its very subtle and only because I'm such a saw snob did I even mention it.
When I was first learning to sharpen, I put a 30degree rake on my 4 TPI panel saw. I struggled with it for months. Saw 😂 a huge improvement when I changed the rake to 0. Good lesson to learn. Geometry matters!
The Hand Toolery did a video about 3 years ago on turning an $18 Gent's saw into a dovetail saw. I don't think he tuned the tooth geometry, but he did make a new pistol grip handle based on an Isaac Smith (Blackburne Tools) pattern. Then, as always, the true test is sharpening the saw to tune it. But, for $20 plus some scrap wood for a handle, the time spent to learn and improve your saw sharpening is well worth it.
Hang angle makes sense with the Bearcat saw. I used to have an older Freud saw and hated it. But handle hang was very different. Not sure I still like that much under the spine in terms of plate. I ahve a Lie Nielsen and a Bontz dovetail saw, I would love to add a Bad Axe Stilleto. The beauty of the tools...yes...I feel bad about collecting these....but I love them.
No reason to feel bad. I like being able to support some of these saw makers when I can and I do use all my saws. I suppose even if they were gathering dust that's one thing. I've sold or given away more dovetail saws than I own currently because they weren't getting used anymore. These days every one I own is tuned to a specific purpose and the hang is a major part of that.
I have found that the expensive saws can have their issues also. I have had to rework them - even right out of the box is no guarantee. One expensive saw I had to fix was way overset and was a pain to use, until I hammered back the set. My opinion is: I would rather spend $200 to $400 on a bunch of old used tenon, dovetail and cheap Gents saws, giving me many options; than to blow $200 to $400 on one saw that might or might not work for me. The best advice he gave was - learn how to tune your own saw(s). It doesn't take that much time and if you break down the $200 to $400 cost of the "premium" saws, your hourly rate would be far better spent and with money left over, learning how to tune your own saws and you will have that skill for a lifetime. I have found Paul Sellers "how to's" on saw sharpening, setting, and such to be amongst the best, unbiased and easiest to follow if you are just learning how. YMMV
@@RenaissanceWW Sending it back isn't always the answer, the next one will probably be the same as the last. The rake, set, and fleam might not be what I prefer and adjustments need to be made. My point was, I would rather have 10 good working saws than one pretty saw. You can get just as good if not better 100 year old used saw and tune it up for a fraction of the price.
@Pat Mahon Name and shame is not my style- You can't/shouldn't shame "differences" in a users skill levels or a manufactures set, rake or fleam choice.
Hmm, I fitted a pistol-grip handles to my Japanese style pullsaw blades. It works for me. However, the blades are essentially disposable, but that may be a saving of time that is useful to you as well.
Your drift with the Gent's Saw is coming from your body mechanics. You begin with your wrist turned over the top -- attempting to get perpendicular to the plane of the back -- which is putting pressure off the line of where you want to cut. The razee/pistol grip saw handle is a very old innovation that makes it easier to control the line of a cut. Add to that, we have at least a century of ergonomic design that makes the use of "pistol-grip" designs very common in our everyday lives. This innovation with the saws themselves is about 400 years old, as opposed to at least 3000 years of European iron bladed saws having square frame or in-line pommel style handles. It took quite a bit of time for humanity to make that leap.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video, thanks for sharing it. You mentioned the name of a saw a couple of times that sounded like Bond, but I couldn't make it out.
I love seeing the collaboration. Shannon, some of your gripes weren't necessarily about the price point of the saw, but the style, for example the handle. If you had to pick a dovetail saw in the $25 price range, what would you pick? Or better yet, what are your choices at $25, $50, and $100 given that it's known your $200 choice is a Bad Axe?
I can't say that I have such a wide breadth of experience to be able to pick a brand at all those price points but I do think that for anything under $100 by pick would be a Japanese Dozuki. Perhaps the Veritas dovetail saw but I still prefer a Dozuki over that particular saw. Between $100 and $200 though it would be Lie Nielsen. Used that saw for many years and never had a complaint other than the handle not being a perfect fit. But that's to be expect for a mass produced tool.
@@RenaissanceWW That's interesting Shannon, in your experience do the straight handles on Dozuki's perform better than the straight handles on gent saws?
Its possible I miscounted but that 1 point won't make much difference. I still find it too fine. As far as converting I'm not sure how easy that would be. I've never taken a Gents handle off to see what the "tang" looks like. Plus with the saw plate so short already, nesting part of it inside a pistol grip handle would lost at least 2" from the usable sawing length.
If you were to make two otherwise identical dovetail boxes, one using a Bad Axe dovetail saw and the other with, say, a Veritas dovetail saw, would I be able to tell which was which?
Probably not. For someone who is already good at cutting dovetails you can cut pretty joints with any saw. For a newbie learning and improving their dovetails I do think a better saw will shorten that ramp. For an experienced woodworker the result may be the same but I do find the journey to more enjoyable when I don't have to fight a lower quality tool. We work with what we have and the tool doesn't make the woodworker. But they do make us smile.
its all a spectrum and while fleam is a defining characteristic it is not uncommon to see a saw designed for rip cuts with a few degrees of fleam. Likewise many a crosscut saw will have a more aggressive rake. Think about it more how the geometry can be tailored to the desired cut and less about labeling the saw into a box.
So I read an article that called lie Nielsen and Veritas saws “budget.” I’ve never really heard budget and those two names in the same sentence before, but compared to the boutique brands I understand the statement. How do those rank on your comparison list? I’ve been eyeing the Veritas saws since I can afford it, but I’m also of the mind “buy once cry once”. I don’t want to drop the cash on that saw to be disappointed or to need to sharpen it right out of the box. What are your experiences with their saws?
There was a time not long ago when LN was the premium brand and Veritas didn't actually have saws. LN these days I consider to be mid range on pricing but I used their dovetail saw for at least 6 years. Great saw where it fails today in comparison is in the handle not being a precise a fit. But that is to be expected of a company that mass produced their saws. Just like Disston the handle will always be a bit bigger. Overall the geometries of a LN saw are "vanilla". Veritas spiced things up a bit with the composite back but I find the hang angle of a Veritas saw and the handle shape to be not good. I'd rather use their Gent style handle because the pistol handle interferes with starting the saw and usually I have to add more rake to the teeth to get it to start smoothly. Still both makers produce excellent saws. LN will be good right out of the box but I do not think it will be your last saw if you continue to cut dovetails by hand. You will outgrow it as your skill level increases. Veritas to me is not an out of the box ready saw. But look at the price tag, why would it be?
Here again though, as this video illustrates, a well tuned and sharp saw will produce the same quality of joint regardless of the price. There are some creature comforts that come from higher end saws but cutting good dovetails does not hinge on the type of saw being used.
Great info on saws, thanks! I really like your bench with the twin screw vice. Did you ever make a video/article about it? Or is there a plan i could look for? Ilike it
I did do a video on it as well as an entire build series in The Hand Tool School. Check out ua-cam.com/video/fpQprRclcss/v-deo.html or visit my site at www.renaissancewoodworker.com/rww190-the-joinery-bench/
Would it not be said that the Gent style saw has a high hang angle as opposed to no hang angle? Bench saws, miterbox saws, all have low hangs for working with the blade flat....... low = closer to 90⁰ to the toothline. The dovetail saw shown has a higher hang angle than a bench saw.... high = wider angle to the toothline.......so wouldnt the straight handle be said to be higher again? I know it's just picking on words, but it seems strange to me when its said that it has no hang angle.... not out to start arguments, theres enough of those in the woodworking community 🤷♂️😂 I'm just curious 😁
Was fun watching both videos for this saw. Out of curiosity, before the saw was given away, did you try reducing the set to see how it did then? I'm guessing probably not.
Shannon when youadd fleam to a dovetail saw do you sharpen as a crosscut saw by alternating fleam to each side of the blade or do you cut the fleam angle only on the backside of the blade.
I add fleam just as you would on a crosscut saw. I don't know any other way to do it. If you added it only on one side then I imagine you would throw off the balance of the saw much like setting too much to one side.
A friendly piece of advice: Put the tool into application then speak. It tends to hook viewers real good and not lose their attention to clicking more tempting thumbnails. Cheers.
Not directly no. I have minimal experience with Cosman's saws. Just on the the floor of a show. I'm not a fan of the progressive pitch and anything that makes sharpening it more complicated. Not sure if Rob is still adding those things to his saws anymore. I think the takeaway from this video should be that you will find just about all the saws perform the same and will give you good looking joinery when they are sharp and tuned well. we are blessed to have so many good brands to choose from these days and I think you will be hard pressed to find any of the premiums saws out there that will be a bad buy.
No doubt I prefer a longer saw with a more shallow plate but its just didn't seem to be a fair comparison to use a 12" saw against an 8" saw especially with the pitch disparity.
from my school I got a hardpoint bacho crosscut gents saw.. bleh. oh well, I'll make it work I thought. it is sharp, doesn't have propper teeth but they cut fast enough for me. the handle.. BE GONE! I made a nice custom fit pistol grip handle for it and I like it a lot, it will probably outlast the saw if I'm honest :).. m'kay, lets try some dovetails, oh I like it more than I thought, apart from some user error the joint came out pretty good.. but I still don't like the saw. and then I realised that I had spent a lot of time on something that I didn't like. I have concidered cutting the hardened teeth of but I don't think the steel is any good and it's going to cost me some precious files.. oh well live and learn the saw will live in my toolbox as a gap filler and I'll probably use it at school every now and then, it is for sure better than anything else over there
what's that expression about polishing a turd? LOL Its a fine line sometimes when you start throwing more and more labor into a tool to make it better vs just buying a better tool to start with. If nothing else you gained great experience in learning how to super charge the saw.
Yeah the camera is now more than 10 years old and an upgrade is in my future. Actually looking at my raw footage and my locally saved version of this video, I think it is an encoding artifact on the UA-cam side.
@@RenaissanceWW Makes some sense. Haven't seen it before in your videos, but I don't watch as many as I used to so don't know if it's happened before. Good thing is, it was worth sitting through for the content.
A poor craftsman blames his tools, a decent craftsman blames himself, and an excellent craftsman goes nope it's the tool. Called it Inverted Dunning Kruger for woodworking.
Really? I thought I made a pretty clear distinction about what you are paying for with the higher priced saws. I definitely can point to the features/elements that contribute to the prices. Sorry if that didn't come through.
Shannon, while the information was great, the video quality is terrible. You do review your videos before you post them don't you? Then why did you post this?
Yes, terrible may be harsh, but I've come to expect a certain level of video quality from you and this wasn't that. Love the content though. I recently bought a Veritas dovetail saw and this video was a huge help. Thanks.
This is a very informative and well made video. I think the saw test cutting a portion in half then again in half is a great practice for new woodworkers and those who do not saw very well.
Interesting, I recently bought one of those saws 12 months or so after that video was made and the rake has definitely changed insofar as it came out of the box good to go, maybe the manufacturer took note of your video, great site thanks to both of you😊
Hello, Mr. Rogers;
I'm quite impressed w/ your saw knowledge.
Also, your dovetail sawing tips are quite good & I very much appreciate them.
But, apparently, saw handles are fairly easy to change.
Lay out the pattern, rough it in including the pilot holes, mount the handle & drill the holes.
Finish the handle.
I watched this because of Mr. Graham's recommendation & he was right.
I sharpened my 1st about '69 & I've sharpened saws only when absolutely necessary so I don't know saws like you do.
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
This video is 'Liked' & I'll be watching to see what else you can teach this old dog.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
So that's why boutique makers exist and are doing so well. I must say, while there is always diminishing returns the more you spend just as a Bugatti is only marginally faster in the 1/4 to a hoped up used Mustang. Where in life can you buy the best of the best in a lifetime investment for only a $200 premium? And over a lifetime (and likely the next few) that premium amortizes out to next to nothing. Nicer tools are coveted and that ego boost/enjoyment is worth something.
Yeah, but you forgot to tell him that you sent him a right-handed gent saw, and he appears to be left-handed... LOL
I'm going to work on buying better saws (not the ultra-cheap ones with hardened teeth), so that I can sharpen them myself, and then start sharpening them and setting them to fine-tune them. Thanks to both of you, although I have to wonder if there will be a "Round 2" video, after the $20 saw has been properly set???
I've really been enjoying your content lately Shawn, thanks for putting in the effort.
@@testuser3167 shhhh.... lets let him keep thinking the set was off and not tell him it was a right handed gent.
I enjoyed the video explaining tooth geometry for a dovetail saw.
Not unless someone else makes it because I'm going to reset it and then give it away. I doubt anyone would notice a difference anyway. Its very subtle and only because I'm such a saw snob did I even mention it.
I always sharpen first inch or two on my backsaws with that 30 degree rake, then the rest at 90. Really helps them start easy.
When I was first learning to sharpen, I put a 30degree rake on my 4 TPI panel saw. I struggled with it for months.
Saw 😂 a huge improvement when I changed the rake to 0. Good lesson to learn. Geometry matters!
Committed to that first cut was an eye opener fo me. THANK YOU
Saw Sean''s video first. Watching yours gave evidence to what he said and got me into the details. Thank you.
The Hand Toolery did a video about 3 years ago on turning an $18 Gent's saw into a dovetail saw. I don't think he tuned the tooth geometry, but he did make a new pistol grip handle based on an Isaac Smith (Blackburne Tools) pattern. Then, as always, the true test is sharpening the saw to tune it. But, for $20 plus some scrap wood for a handle, the time spent to learn and improve your saw sharpening is well worth it.
I did that with one of these cheap saws. I guess I need to learn to sharpen it though.
Very cool video, great analysis, been looking forward to this v ever since I watched Shawn's video
I love Shawns videos.
Very informative, I remember when you built that joinery bench. You certainly have lost a fair amount of weight since, congratulations
Hang angle makes sense with the Bearcat saw. I used to have an older Freud saw and hated it. But handle hang was very different. Not sure I still like that much under the spine in terms of plate. I ahve a Lie Nielsen and a Bontz dovetail saw, I would love to add a Bad Axe Stilleto. The beauty of the tools...yes...I feel bad about collecting these....but I love them.
No reason to feel bad. I like being able to support some of these saw makers when I can and I do use all my saws. I suppose even if they were gathering dust that's one thing. I've sold or given away more dovetail saws than I own currently because they weren't getting used anymore. These days every one I own is tuned to a specific purpose and the hang is a major part of that.
I have found that the expensive saws can have their issues also. I have had to rework them - even right out of the box is no guarantee. One expensive saw I had to fix was way overset and was a pain to use, until I hammered back the set.
My opinion is: I would rather spend $200 to $400 on a bunch of old used tenon, dovetail and cheap Gents saws, giving me many options; than to blow $200 to $400 on one saw that might or might not work for me. The best advice he gave was - learn how to tune your own saw(s). It doesn't take that much time and if you break down the $200 to $400 cost of the "premium" saws, your hourly rate would be far better spent and with money left over, learning how to tune your own saws and you will have that skill for a lifetime.
I have found Paul Sellers "how to's" on saw sharpening, setting, and such to be amongst the best, unbiased and easiest to follow if you are just learning how. YMMV
If you spent money on a premium saw that isn't ready out of the box, send it back.
@@RenaissanceWW Sending it back isn't always the answer, the next one will probably be the same as the last. The rake, set, and fleam might not be what I prefer and adjustments need to be made. My point was, I would rather have 10 good working saws than one pretty saw. You can get just as good if not better 100 year old used saw and tune it up for a fraction of the price.
@Pat Mahon Name and shame is not my style-
You can't/shouldn't shame "differences" in a users skill levels or a manufactures set, rake or fleam choice.
Incredible how much I learned here, and how much I learned there is to learn! Many thanks! Hats off!
What? Lol
Watched Shawn’s vid them this one. Pretty darn cool. Thanks guys.
Great episode; very enlightening. I dropped in because of Shawn and subscribed immediately.
Hmm, I fitted a pistol-grip handles to my Japanese style pullsaw blades. It works for me. However, the blades are essentially disposable, but that may be a saving of time that is useful to you as well.
Your drift with the Gent's Saw is coming from your body mechanics. You begin with your wrist turned over the top -- attempting to get perpendicular to the plane of the back -- which is putting pressure off the line of where you want to cut.
The razee/pistol grip saw handle is a very old innovation that makes it easier to control the line of a cut. Add to that, we have at least a century of ergonomic design that makes the use of "pistol-grip" designs very common in our everyday lives.
This innovation with the saws themselves is about 400 years old, as opposed to at least 3000 years of European iron bladed saws having square frame or in-line pommel style handles. It took quite a bit of time for humanity to make that leap.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video, thanks for sharing it. You mentioned the name of a saw a couple of times that sounded like Bond, but I couldn't make it out.
Bontz saws
Bontz saws are wonderful.
@@RenaissanceWW Thank you.
I love seeing the collaboration. Shannon, some of your gripes weren't necessarily about the price point of the saw, but the style, for example the handle. If you had to pick a dovetail saw in the $25 price range, what would you pick? Or better yet, what are your choices at $25, $50, and $100 given that it's known your $200 choice is a Bad Axe?
I can't say that I have such a wide breadth of experience to be able to pick a brand at all those price points but I do think that for anything under $100 by pick would be a Japanese Dozuki. Perhaps the Veritas dovetail saw but I still prefer a Dozuki over that particular saw. Between $100 and $200 though it would be Lie Nielsen. Used that saw for many years and never had a complaint other than the handle not being a perfect fit. But that's to be expect for a mass produced tool.
@@RenaissanceWW That's interesting Shannon, in your experience do the straight handles on Dozuki's perform better than the straight handles on gent saws?
Yes because they are longer but also because the pull action changes the game completely on how the handle functions
Yeah Shannon, I have one of the Crown's though I counted 17ppi? But convert pistol grip certainly.
Its possible I miscounted but that 1 point won't make much difference. I still find it too fine. As far as converting I'm not sure how easy that would be. I've never taken a Gents handle off to see what the "tang" looks like. Plus with the saw plate so short already, nesting part of it inside a pistol grip handle would lost at least 2" from the usable sawing length.
@@RenaissanceWW gonna give it a try. Traced out a handle on Cherrywood. I think my Crown is 10" long though?
If you were to make two otherwise identical dovetail boxes, one using a Bad Axe dovetail saw and the other with, say, a Veritas dovetail saw, would I be able to tell which was which?
Probably not. For someone who is already good at cutting dovetails you can cut pretty joints with any saw. For a newbie learning and improving their dovetails I do think a better saw will shorten that ramp. For an experienced woodworker the result may be the same but I do find the journey to more enjoyable when I don't have to fight a lower quality tool. We work with what we have and the tool doesn't make the woodworker. But they do make us smile.
So you turn a rip into a cross cut? Most dovetail saws are set up as rip saws. Adding fleam to the teeth turns them into a cross cut pattern tooth.
its all a spectrum and while fleam is a defining characteristic it is not uncommon to see a saw designed for rip cuts with a few degrees of fleam. Likewise many a crosscut saw will have a more aggressive rake. Think about it more how the geometry can be tailored to the desired cut and less about labeling the saw into a box.
So I read an article that called lie Nielsen and Veritas saws “budget.” I’ve never really heard budget and those two names in the same sentence before, but compared to the boutique brands I understand the statement. How do those rank on your comparison list? I’ve been eyeing the Veritas saws since I can afford it, but I’m also of the mind “buy once cry once”. I don’t want to drop the cash on that saw to be disappointed or to need to sharpen it right out of the box. What are your experiences with their saws?
They're fine. Get some files, a means of anchoring blade and Sharpen and go.
There was a time not long ago when LN was the premium brand and Veritas didn't actually have saws. LN these days I consider to be mid range on pricing but I used their dovetail saw for at least 6 years. Great saw where it fails today in comparison is in the handle not being a precise a fit. But that is to be expected of a company that mass produced their saws. Just like Disston the handle will always be a bit bigger. Overall the geometries of a LN saw are "vanilla". Veritas spiced things up a bit with the composite back but I find the hang angle of a Veritas saw and the handle shape to be not good. I'd rather use their Gent style handle because the pistol handle interferes with starting the saw and usually I have to add more rake to the teeth to get it to start smoothly. Still both makers produce excellent saws. LN will be good right out of the box but I do not think it will be your last saw if you continue to cut dovetails by hand. You will outgrow it as your skill level increases. Veritas to me is not an out of the box ready saw. But look at the price tag, why would it be?
Here again though, as this video illustrates, a well tuned and sharp saw will produce the same quality of joint regardless of the price. There are some creature comforts that come from higher end saws but cutting good dovetails does not hinge on the type of saw being used.
Great info on saws, thanks! I really like your bench with the twin screw vice. Did you ever make a video/article about it? Or is there a plan i could look for? Ilike it
I did do a video on it as well as an entire build series in The Hand Tool School. Check out ua-cam.com/video/fpQprRclcss/v-deo.html or visit my site at www.renaissancewoodworker.com/rww190-the-joinery-bench/
@@RenaissanceWW Wonderful! Thank you, Shannon.
Would it not be said that the Gent style saw has a high hang angle as opposed to no hang angle? Bench saws, miterbox saws, all have low hangs for working with the blade flat....... low = closer to 90⁰ to the toothline. The dovetail saw shown has a higher hang angle than a bench saw.... high = wider angle to the toothline.......so wouldnt the straight handle be said to be higher again? I know it's just picking on words, but it seems strange to me when its said that it has no hang angle.... not out to start arguments, theres enough of those in the woodworking community 🤷♂️😂 I'm just curious 😁
For setting teeth do use a squeeze type tool or hammer set? Thank you for an informative and helpful video
I use a Crown and when I get past set I get a new one. Vision and temper hindrance. I use three inch six sided jeweler file from Contenti 231-541-4.
Was fun watching both videos for this saw. Out of curiosity, before the saw was given away, did you try reducing the set to see how it did then? I'm guessing probably not.
Shannon when youadd fleam to a dovetail saw do you sharpen as a crosscut saw by alternating fleam to each side of the blade or do you cut the fleam angle only on the backside of the blade.
I add fleam just as you would on a crosscut saw. I don't know any other way to do it. If you added it only on one side then I imagine you would throw off the balance of the saw much like setting too much to one side.
You mentioned a Bond dovetail saw? I am having difficulty finding that make.
Bontz saws
A friendly piece of advice: Put the tool into application then speak. It tends to hook viewers real good and not lose their attention to clicking more tempting thumbnails. Cheers.
I think the biggest difference of those saws if in the hands of a beginner is the handles. It is much easier to saw straight when using a pistol grip.
actually in teaching kids (12-15) most struggled less with the straight handle. I have no explanation why.
Have you compared the bearcat to the Rob Cosman saw? Just curious how they compare against each other, I don't have any experience withe the bearcat.
Not directly no. I have minimal experience with Cosman's saws. Just on the the floor of a show. I'm not a fan of the progressive pitch and anything that makes sharpening it more complicated. Not sure if Rob is still adding those things to his saws anymore. I think the takeaway from this video should be that you will find just about all the saws perform the same and will give you good looking joinery when they are sharp and tuned well. we are blessed to have so many good brands to choose from these days and I think you will be hard pressed to find any of the premiums saws out there that will be a bad buy.
@@RenaissanceWW Thanks for the reply!
Done run up on cat right here that knows his stuff. Sub.
How is pax budget?
The size of the bearcat style saw is really awkward in use IMHO. Like the other two styles.
No doubt I prefer a longer saw with a more shallow plate but its just didn't seem to be a fair comparison to use a 12" saw against an 8" saw especially with the pitch disparity.
from my school I got a hardpoint bacho crosscut gents saw.. bleh. oh well, I'll make it work I thought. it is sharp, doesn't have propper teeth but they cut fast enough for me. the handle.. BE GONE! I made a nice custom fit pistol grip handle for it and I like it a lot, it will probably outlast the saw if I'm honest :).. m'kay, lets try some dovetails, oh I like it more than I thought, apart from some user error the joint came out pretty good.. but I still don't like the saw. and then I realised that I had spent a lot of time on something that I didn't like. I have concidered cutting the hardened teeth of but I don't think the steel is any good and it's going to cost me some precious files.. oh well live and learn
the saw will live in my toolbox as a gap filler and I'll probably use it at school every now and then, it is for sure better than anything else over there
what's that expression about polishing a turd? LOL Its a fine line sometimes when you start throwing more and more labor into a tool to make it better vs just buying a better tool to start with. If nothing else you gained great experience in learning how to super charge the saw.
Great video. Thanks, Shannon. Only negative? the focus pulse on the wide shots nearly made me vomit.
Yeah the camera is now more than 10 years old and an upgrade is in my future. Actually looking at my raw footage and my locally saved version of this video, I think it is an encoding artifact on the UA-cam side.
@@RenaissanceWW Makes some sense. Haven't seen it before in your videos, but I don't watch as many as I used to so don't know if it's happened before. Good thing is, it was worth sitting through for the content.
Pretty sure that was a right handed gent saw. 😜
I think it was metric, also
A poor craftsman blames his tools, a decent craftsman blames himself, and an excellent craftsman goes nope it's the tool. Called it Inverted Dunning Kruger for woodworking.
You're starting to remind me of the type of audiophile that spends $240 on a power cable because "you know it must be good quality at that price."
Really? I thought I made a pretty clear distinction about what you are paying for with the higher priced saws. I definitely can point to the features/elements that contribute to the prices. Sorry if that didn't come through.
It's that 100% oxygen free copper I'm telling ya.
Shannon, while the information was great, the video quality is terrible. You do review your videos before you post them don't you? Then why did you post this?
I think terrible is a bit harsh. Sorry you think so.
Yes, terrible may be harsh, but I've come to expect a certain level of video quality from you and this wasn't that. Love the content though. I recently bought a Veritas dovetail saw and this video was a huge help. Thanks.
I didn't notice the "quality" of the video; I ewas entirely focused on the excellent quality of the instruction. My 2 cents.
sry, but please get yourself a better microphone setup.
what's wrong with the sound? I didn't hear anything off other than the hum of the AC unit outside my window which I can't do anything about.