Well now I am all inspired to pull out my FV-1 and build something! I like your UIX with the bars. It's very simple to look at. I love your modular look / theme!
That's a really awesome project! The background sound(3:16) remember the Teamlab Planets museum in tokio i had the pleasure to know. Just some questions; The Spin fv-1 module you have the schematic presented contain the "fv-1 board module parts it´s come with? And could you do it in stereo?
The FV-1 module is equipped with several resistors, LEDs and resonators. Converting to stereo is easy because you only have to double the op amp circuit.
Great job. Where did you find the FV-1 SOP to DIP adaptor or the complete DIP module ? I've seen on the SPIN Semiconductor webside to prefer 46kHz clock in place of the 32kHz to avoid limitation at 15khZ of audio signal, do you have some returns or test on this ?
I bought the DIP module from a Japanese EC site. The link is on my blog. It seems that overseas shipping is not supported. I haven't tested the limitation.Thank you!
Nice work. But man, you really should start designing your PCBs! Trust me, using SMD components with some decent PCBs would take your projects to the next level ;)
@@HAGIWO TH is fine for these I think, although many DIYers prefer using SMD these days, especially the larger 0805 size which is pretty tollerable even to my old eyes. I'd love to see more of your work in PCB though either way.
@@marekhorvath3148 SMD doesn't have to be CRAZY tiny, and once you get the hang of it I actually consider it quicker & MUCH less stressful if a component has to be removed later or something... No pumps needed or worry of overheating components/pads/pulling traces, etc. The PCB's can be smaller & thinner, and with more components, for a cheaper overall price. These are especially relevant in Eurorack when module-depth is very important! Less solder waste as well, and component/soldering-prep (bending & trimming TH leads, having to use a ton of rosin flux, etc) is minimal compared to through-hole components-in fact, one of the BEST techniques for standard SMT components/IC's is actually easier than TH: The key is to only solder ONE leg of the SMT part using a pre-tinned pad on the PCB, then it's perfectly held in position & sturdy, AND you can do all of this with the PCB laid flat and not needing a "Helping Hand" or some crazy tape/bent-leg positioning system or a flipped PCB. So you can focus on soldering the rest with both hands available without worrying about it moving... - Pre-apply a small dab of solder (aka "tinning") onto just one of the empty PCB footprint pads, I usually start with the GND. ⚹_(or if it's an IC with 3+ legs, pre-tin two pads at both ends/corners of the same side, so the part doesn't wobble when heating)_ - Pre-apply a bit of Flux onto all of the other footprint pads. This is made effortless with a liquid flux pen! - Then you literally just hold the part in-place with tweezers using one hand-a "reverse tweezer" works well, or just holding the part in position using tweezers And with the heated iron in the other hand, *simply touch the IC's leg onto the tin for 1-2sec until the dab melts, and the part will easily "fall" right into place! That's it. You don't even need or want to apply pressure against the leg of the part at this size; it's a *tiny* lead with no real heat-stealing capability like some THT, it's a tiny surface pad that doesn't require the same "pre-heat before solder" as with double-sided, plated through-hole pads. Just because it has a bad reputation and you don't want to expand your own skillset doesn't mean we should all go without the benefits of using them (or both)!
It seems that the charge pump circuit inside the OLED or the I2C communication emits noise. The charge pump noise can be reduced by adding an electrolytic capacitor to the 5V power supply, and the I2C communication noise can be reduced by reducing the communication frequency or adding a limiting resistor to the communication line.
I bought the arduino from Ali Express. Recently, the supply of semiconductors has been low and the price seems to be rising. I bought the FV-1 from a Japanese e-commerce site, but it is also sold on ebay.
@@massimookissed1023 FV-1's have risen a lot in price over the last couple of years. I suspect its increase in popularity, espcially among a lot of guitar pedal manufacturers is part of the reason.
![[ $12 ] DIY eurorack modular synth Ring modulator & wavefolder with AD633 analog multiplier](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gYwEPNSfJLE/mqdefault.jpg)
![[ $7 ] DIY eurorack modular synth Euclidean rhythm sequencer , 6CH Arduino nano based](/img/n.gif)
Well now I am all inspired to pull out my FV-1 and build something! I like your UIX with the bars. It's very simple to look at. I love your modular look / theme!
Excellent work - thank you for sharing this! 👍
thanks again my hero!!
That's a really awesome project! The background sound(3:16) remember the Teamlab Planets museum in tokio i had the pleasure to know.
Just some questions;
The Spin fv-1 module you have the schematic presented contain the "fv-1 board module parts it´s come with?
And could you do it in stereo?
The FV-1 module is equipped with several resistors, LEDs and resonators.
Converting to stereo is easy because you only have to double the op amp circuit.
🖤
Amazing, thanks for sharing this project. i really like all of your videos.
question: what is the code of FV-1? is the 1819A? 1848?
Is it an IC laser marking code? Then any code is fine. It is probably the number that indicates the production lot.
@@HAGIWO ok
Damn, man!
Great job. Where did you find the FV-1 SOP to DIP adaptor or the complete DIP module ?
I've seen on the SPIN Semiconductor webside to prefer 46kHz clock in place of the 32kHz to avoid limitation at 15khZ of audio signal, do you have some returns or test on this ?
I bought the DIP module from a Japanese EC site. The link is on my blog. It seems that overseas shipping is not supported.
I haven't tested the limitation.Thank you!
To easily develop algorithms for the FV-1 without writing any code, please see: github.com/HolyCityAudio/SpinCAD-Designer
Nice work. But man, you really should start designing your PCBs! Trust me, using SMD components with some decent PCBs would take your projects to the next level ;)
nonsense, if it will be on smd, it will be difficult for someone to make it. I hope he doesn't do it and will stay with the old version as of now
I would like to try PCB design. However, since it will not be mass-produced, there are no plans to make it with SMD.Thank you!
@@HAGIWO TH is fine for these I think, although many DIYers prefer using SMD these days, especially the larger 0805 size which is pretty tollerable even to my old eyes. I'd love to see more of your work in PCB though either way.
@@marekhorvath3148 SMD doesn't have to be CRAZY tiny, and once you get the hang of it I actually consider it quicker & MUCH less stressful if a component has to be removed later or something... No pumps needed or worry of overheating components/pads/pulling traces, etc. The PCB's can be smaller & thinner, and with more components, for a cheaper overall price. These are especially relevant in Eurorack when module-depth is very important!
Less solder waste as well, and component/soldering-prep (bending & trimming TH leads, having to use a ton of rosin flux, etc) is minimal compared to through-hole components-in fact, one of the BEST techniques for standard SMT components/IC's is actually easier than TH: The key is to only solder ONE leg of the SMT part using a pre-tinned pad on the PCB, then it's perfectly held in position & sturdy, AND you can do all of this with the PCB laid flat and not needing a "Helping Hand" or some crazy tape/bent-leg positioning system or a flipped PCB. So you can focus on soldering the rest with both hands available without worrying about it moving...
- Pre-apply a small dab of solder (aka "tinning") onto just one of the empty PCB footprint pads, I usually start with the GND.
⚹_(or if it's an IC with 3+ legs, pre-tin two pads at both ends/corners of the same side, so the part doesn't wobble when heating)_
- Pre-apply a bit of Flux onto all of the other footprint pads. This is made effortless with a liquid flux pen!
- Then you literally just hold the part in-place with tweezers using one hand-a "reverse tweezer" works well, or just holding the part in position using tweezers
And with the heated iron in the other hand, *simply touch the IC's leg onto the tin for 1-2sec until the dab melts, and the part will easily "fall" right into place! That's it. You don't even need or want to apply pressure against the leg of the part at this size; it's a *tiny* lead with no real heat-stealing capability like some THT, it's a tiny surface pad that doesn't require the same "pre-heat before solder" as with double-sided, plated through-hole pads.
Just because it has a bad reputation and you don't want to expand your own skillset doesn't mean we should all go without the benefits of using them (or both)!
I'd like to request PCBs for all your projects. Thank you.
I bought a KiCAD reference book and am studying.
*clap clap clap*
Did you had trouble with the noise of the OLED screen ? How did you fixed it ?
It seems that the charge pump circuit inside the OLED or the I2C communication emits noise. The charge pump noise can be reduced by adding an electrolytic capacitor to the 5V power supply, and the I2C communication noise can be reduced by reducing the communication frequency or adding a limiting resistor to the communication line.
Where do you get the components? I am new to Eurorack. I'll search around. I have Arduino, etc.
Where do you get arduino nano for 2$ ?
Also where did you buy the FV-1 module?
I bought the arduino from Ali Express. Recently, the supply of semiconductors has been low and the price seems to be rising. I bought the FV-1 from a Japanese e-commerce site, but it is also sold on ebay.
@@HAGIWO Please don't share our Japanese FV-1 source, lol. I love how I can take the train 40ish minutes and grab one in person.
AliEx Arduino Nano's have gone up to €6 and a bare unsoldered FV-1 is about €45 😞
@@massimookissed1023 FV-1's have risen a lot in price over the last couple of years. I suspect its increase in popularity, espcially among a lot of guitar pedal manufacturers is part of the reason.
What about stereo panoramic effects ?
How did you print text on your panel? by printing company?
It is printed on an adhesive sheet with a home printer.
ua-cam.com/video/mtH72Yjct5I/v-deo.html
Mono output?