I have a similar issue with a retaining wall that uses large R&R ties. Instead of rebar, it looks like someone installed large/long galvanized spikes or something similar. Not sure if the spikes are a "T-type" and cemented underneath the ties, etc., as I've never tried to tackle a job like this. I like your construction of a rebar removal tool. However, it would take me forever and a day to find similar parts to construct one of my own. Thus, I'm thinking that I would stop by Harbor freight and purchase a farm jack. I haven't been able to find another UA-camr that has a similar problem as me - your video was the closest in similarity to my issue and it gave me the idea of using a farm jacket. I enjoyed your video very much and appreciate the patience that you exhibited. Had it been me, my video would have turned into an "Ernest P. Worrell" video out of frustration. Super presentation in all respects - great job and very much appreciated!!!!!!
Pair of vice grips, clamp down on the rod a inch or 2 above ground and use a pick ax or shovel to pry the bar out. Mine were driven about 18 inches to 2 feet. Worked excellent. Use what ya got right lol
Awesome video. This is exactly what I am currently working on to keep the high side of the yard from washing onto the drive and make it look more uniform. After watching your video, I will change from 2' rebar to 1'. My fear will be the removal process that I now see you had to contend with. So maybe less length in hard Georgia clay will be quicker. Could you mark the new timber where the current timber holes are located, drill, then lift out the rotten timber and stick the new timber in? As far as poor quality/price timbers, people would rather be unemployed and get free money from the government and now the economy is the worst in history. I will be lucky if the timbers last 5 years!
I'm so damn sorry I ever did my retaining walls of railroad ties the only lasted about ten years I've got 350 of them now to cut up remove and they are hard as a rock even though they're splitting and falling apart
Thanks for the comment! The idea was to reuse the rebar. I'm retired so, quick and easy isn't a priority anymore. If I was doing it commercially, I'd probably just pound them in like you suggested.
You must make a great Grandad or mentor. Nice work!
What a brilliant idea! Especially love the way the double clevis link slides down the rebar each time it comes upward! 🎉
Thank you for the kind comment!
Cool project! You did a great job with your rebar invention. 🙂
Just the one I’ve been searching for. Thanks so much!
Outstanding puller sir thank you for this
Great idea!! Thanks for sharing.
I have a similar issue with a retaining wall that uses large R&R ties. Instead of rebar, it looks like someone installed large/long galvanized spikes or something similar. Not sure if the spikes are a "T-type" and cemented underneath the ties, etc., as I've never tried to tackle a job like this. I like your construction of a rebar removal tool. However, it would take me forever and a day to find similar parts to construct one of my own. Thus, I'm thinking that I would stop by Harbor freight and purchase a farm jack. I haven't been able to find another UA-camr that has a similar problem as me - your video was the closest in similarity to my issue and it gave me the idea of using a farm jacket. I enjoyed your video very much and appreciate the patience that you exhibited. Had it been me, my video would have turned into an "Ernest P. Worrell" video out of frustration. Super presentation in all respects - great job and very much appreciated!!!!!!
Pair of vice grips, clamp down on the rod a inch or 2 above ground and use a pick ax or shovel to pry the bar out. Mine were driven about 18 inches to 2 feet. Worked excellent. Use what ya got right lol
Awesome video. This is exactly what I am currently working on to keep the high side of the yard from washing onto the drive and make it look more uniform. After watching your video, I will change from 2' rebar to 1'. My fear will be the removal process that I now see you had to contend with. So maybe less length in hard Georgia clay will be quicker. Could you mark the new timber where the current timber holes are located, drill, then lift out the rotten timber and stick the new timber in? As far as poor quality/price timbers, people would rather be unemployed and get free money from the government and now the economy is the worst in history. I will be lucky if the timbers last 5 years!
I'm so damn sorry I ever did my retaining walls of railroad ties the only lasted about ten years I've got 350 of them now to cut up remove and they are hard as a rock even though they're splitting and falling apart
Just pound the old rebar into the ground.
Way easier, quicker and smarter.
Thanks for the comment! The idea was to reuse the rebar. I'm retired so, quick and easy isn't a priority anymore. If I was doing it commercially, I'd probably just pound them in like you suggested.