My 2004 Johnson 90 HP 2 stroke always had start /idle issues. Even hard start issues after running. The main culprit was the VRO assembly. It's crap and not needed. I removed the entire VRO assembly and installed a Johnson fuel pump and kept the primer assembly. Problems solved, no stalling at idle, runs great WOT, and starts right up every time. In my opinion, the vapor assembly develops air leaks, and makes it difficult to keep the fuel going in. The primer always list
Hey! Please tell me what fuel pump you got! My 2000 Johnson does not have VRO, but I believe the pump is still the pump for VRO as it has wires for the low oil indicator. I want to replace the pump, but can't figure out which one I need.
My 2004 Johnson 90 HP 2 stroke always had start /idle issues. Even hard start issues after running. The main culprit was the VRO assembly. It's crap and not needed. I removed the entire VRO assembly and installed a Johnson fuel pump and kept the primer assembly. Problems solved, no stalling at idle, runs great WOT, and starts right up every time. In my opinion, the vapor assembly develops air leaks, and makes it difficult to keep the fuel going in. The primer always went soft too. I now pre mix oil right in my tank 50:1 mix and problem solved. The plastic in that vro warps. It's a bad design. Get rid of it. It's not needed. My motor runs better now than when it was new. It's 19 yrs old.
Just watched a Dangar Marine video about the priming solenoid. I thought you’re meant to push the key in a few times then start the key without it pushed in. But he said turn the key while it’s pushed in. That makes so much more sense. I will try it.
Yep, that's how I do it. You can even push it in again right after it's starts if it sounds like the motor doesn't have enough fuel yet. It just gives it a little squirt. Kinda like using the choke but in reverse. They both achieve the same thing... making the air fuel mixture richer. And I love Danger Marine!
I have two of these same engines and the newest one that I just got is a 200 horse Johnson with the vro fuel pump on it... the vro fuel pump was brand new when I purchased it and it didn't seem to work because every time I started it up it would run great for about a minute until It ran out of fuel, so I chase this problem and talk to my buddy and got a brand new fuel pump and put it on there and it did the same thing, turns out in this scenario the suction line that is connected to the engine that works the diaphragm fuel pump was not working properly to make the fuel pump work... the reason for this is there is a crankshaft seal that holds the compression in for that line that feeds the suction/pulse to the pump when that goes bad you can replace that pump with an electrical in line fuel pump but it has to be rated for the right specs I have a 200 horse Johnson V6 I got a pump rated for two to three and a half PSI.. and obviously I'm going to premix my fuel now but it takes care of that problem without pulling the powerheads, to replace that seal to get the proper suction there is also other places to tap in on other cylinder heads to get the proper suction but that is a lot of work, the only downfall is is that you might want to keep a spare pump on hand in case it goes bad...
Plastic Carbys, the bowls can warp. Replace the bowl and gaskets. Did you end up finding the drama? Lol, I just watched your next video. 1 point to me 😂 Side note. Regarding cooling system behavior I need help from someone with a similar engine. I have a 2005 115 - mostly identical Cylinders are immaculate. I have all new OEM water pump, springs thermostats etc. Since forever, it gets hot at idle, and as soon as you increase throttle, you can see the temp drop and hold at approx 85 degrees C. Is it a feature of these engines to run hotter at idle to prevent spark plug fowling or something? If you still have this, does/did yours do the same? If I put a very small hole in the thermostat I can get them to regulate at 85 all day long. But why!? I want this to operate like OEM intended. But no one can tell me if it’s supposed to get hot (110 degrees C head temps at idle before thermostats finally open at low rpm).
I sold mine everything is plastic if you have a Yamaha the carb parts are all aluminum couple linkages are plastic I was suprised that omc didn’t want to spend money on carb parts
Your explanation of the primer was off a little bit… the primer gets its fuel from the “ vapor chamber” then when the primer is activated by the key the fuel is sent through small diameter hoses in the back that you can’t see to the carbs… what your doing when you turn the red valve is switching from the key activator to the manual prime when you squeeze the primer bulb… I think your main problem is dirty carburetors or a bad fuel pump….
Thanks. Your explanation is better than mine was that's for sure. I've learned a lot since then. But for a really thorough explanation, check out Danger Marine... ua-cam.com/video/BrBj2p4A8xQ/v-deo.htmlsi=6n4yhGHv7wexMnAo BTW: It wasn't dirty carbs or a bad fuel pump. The problem was warped carbs. OMC's plastic carbs are prone to warping. My hack was using a heat gun to true up the mating surfaces and then using some gasket sealer to help fill in any gaps.
Yes. There were multiple vacuum leaks largely due to warped plastic components. I found gaps between the mating surfaces of the bowls and carburetor housing and in the fuel pump components. I was able to use a heat gun to remove most of the gaps. But two of the bowls had to be replaced because they were beyond repair. ua-cam.com/video/3uUujMjEaLU/v-deo.html If you have plastic components in your fuel delivery system, check for gaps in the mating surfaces. You can also find vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid on the outside of the fuel delivery components, lines and fittings while it's running. If you hear it rev up when you spray, look for a leak in that area.
There were multiple vacuum leaks largely due to warped plastic components. I found gaps between the mating surfaces of the bowls and carburetor housing and in the fuel pump components. I was able to use a heat gun to remove most of the gaps. But two of the bowls had to be replaced because they were beyond repair. ua-cam.com/video/3uUujMjEaLU/v-deo.html If you have plastic components in your fuel delivery system, check for gaps in the mating surfaces. You can also find vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid on the outside of the fuel delivery components, lines and fittings while it's running. If you hear it rev up when you spray, look for a leak in that area.
@@DC-et4li I ordered a carb rebuild kit and the vapor gasket, and prime solenoid gasket. Gonna do all that and see if it leaks when I squeeze the primer ball. Right now it’s leaking fuel like crazy from top of that vapor mixture tank thing. And hose connections at bottom of the VRO
hey man if your out there some where i appreciate your video alot i was wondering if you mabey deleted that vapor seperator and its pump? i think i am gonna its more trouble than its worth, all the warpage that goes on with this plastic fuel system is craziness. any way i wish i could see (in good detail) your OE fuel&vacuum hose routing as well as the drain lines to and from air box that would be awesome as there is not a damn thing on hoses and diagrams to and from crankcase and other components on these engines all videos or just about deleting a freakin vro pump only hey keep up the good work and videos hope to hear from ya thanx
I appreciate your kind comments Ben. The VROs were deleted on these motors. Getting rid of the vapor separator ain't a bad idea either. Johnson really screwed up making all these parts out of plastic. One Florida summer is all it takes for them to start warping. Luckily, I've had some success using a heat gun to correct warpage. If I still had these Johnsons I'd be happy to send you some pictures of the fuel and vacuum hose routing. But it's been returned to the owner. Best of luck working on yours. And thanks again!
@@DC-et4li hey i understand bud im just at the end of my rope with this engine and all that is required to work on it. i can clearly see why OMC went out of business producing a product like this im sticking to my yamaha's
Thanks for watching Scott. Here's the rest of the series... Part 3 ua-cam.com/video/ERKgu-Cs-u8/v-deo.html Water Test ua-cam.com/video/Jz0hmgJmLA0/v-deo.html I know I didn't do a very good job documenting everything and wrapping it up... sorry about that. The final solution was to fix the warped part of the fuel system; I used a heat gun to reshape the plastic so the mating surfaces fit together without any gaps. I also added additional gaskets and sealant to eliminate the vacuum leak.
My 2004 Johnson 90 HP 2 stroke always had start /idle issues. Even hard start issues after running. The main culprit was the VRO assembly. It's crap and not needed. I removed the entire VRO assembly and installed a Johnson fuel pump and kept the primer assembly. Problems solved, no stalling at idle, runs great WOT, and starts right up every time.
In my opinion, the vapor assembly develops air leaks, and makes it difficult to keep the fuel going in. The primer always list
Hi. I am having the same issues. Can you recommend your replacement?
Hey! Please tell me what fuel pump you got! My 2000 Johnson does not have VRO, but I believe the pump is still the pump for VRO as it has wires for the low oil indicator. I want to replace the pump, but can't figure out which one I need.
My 2004 Johnson 90 HP 2 stroke always had start /idle issues. Even hard start issues after running. The main culprit was the VRO assembly. It's crap and not needed. I removed the entire VRO assembly and installed a Johnson fuel pump and kept the primer assembly. Problems solved, no stalling at idle, runs great WOT, and starts right up every time.
In my opinion, the vapor assembly develops air leaks, and makes it difficult to keep the fuel going in. The primer always went soft too. I now pre mix oil right in my tank 50:1 mix and problem solved. The plastic in that vro warps. It's a bad design. Get rid of it. It's not needed. My motor runs better now than when it was new. It's 19 yrs old.
What pump did you use? Where did you purchase? TY
Just watched a Dangar Marine video about the priming solenoid. I thought you’re meant to push the key in a few times then start the key without it pushed in. But he said turn the key while it’s pushed in. That makes so much more sense. I will try it.
Yep, that's how I do it. You can even push it in again right after it's starts if it sounds like the motor doesn't have enough fuel yet. It just gives it a little squirt. Kinda like using the choke but in reverse. They both achieve the same thing... making the air fuel mixture richer.
And I love Danger Marine!
I have two of these same engines and the newest one that I just got is a 200 horse Johnson with the vro fuel pump on it... the vro fuel pump was brand new when I purchased it and it didn't seem to work because every time I started it up it would run great for about a minute until It ran out of fuel, so I chase this problem and talk to my buddy and got a brand new fuel pump and put it on there and it did the same thing, turns out in this scenario the suction line that is connected to the engine that works the diaphragm fuel pump was not working properly to make the fuel pump work... the reason for this is there is a crankshaft seal that holds the compression in for that line that feeds the suction/pulse to the pump when that goes bad you can replace that pump with an electrical in line fuel pump but it has to be rated for the right specs I have a 200 horse Johnson V6 I got a pump rated for two to three and a half PSI.. and obviously I'm going to premix my fuel now but it takes care of that problem without pulling the powerheads, to replace that seal to get the proper suction there is also other places to tap in on other cylinder heads to get the proper suction but that is a lot of work, the only downfall is is that you might want to keep a spare pump on hand in case it goes bad...
I have a 99 Johnson 115 and run a electric pump and premix. What should my psi be?
Plastic Carbys, the bowls can warp. Replace the bowl and gaskets. Did you end up finding the drama? Lol, I just watched your next video. 1 point to me 😂
Side note. Regarding cooling system behavior I need help from someone with a similar engine.
I have a 2005 115 - mostly identical
Cylinders are immaculate. I have all new OEM water pump, springs thermostats etc.
Since forever, it gets hot at idle, and as soon as you increase throttle, you can see the temp drop and hold at approx 85 degrees C.
Is it a feature of these engines to run hotter at idle to prevent spark plug fowling or something? If you still have this, does/did yours do the same? If I put a very small hole in the thermostat I can get them to regulate at 85 all day long. But why!?
I want this to operate like OEM intended. But no one can tell me if it’s supposed to get hot (110 degrees C head temps at idle before thermostats finally open at low rpm).
I sold mine everything is plastic if you have a Yamaha the carb parts are all aluminum couple linkages are plastic I was suprised that omc didn’t want to spend money on carb parts
Your explanation of the primer was off a little bit… the primer gets its fuel from the “ vapor chamber” then when the primer is activated by the key the fuel is sent through small diameter hoses in the back that you can’t see to the carbs… what your doing when you turn the red valve is switching from the key activator to the manual prime when you squeeze the primer bulb… I think your main problem is dirty carburetors or a bad fuel pump….
Thanks. Your explanation is better than mine was that's for sure. I've learned a lot since then. But for a really thorough explanation, check out Danger Marine...
ua-cam.com/video/BrBj2p4A8xQ/v-deo.htmlsi=6n4yhGHv7wexMnAo
BTW: It wasn't dirty carbs or a bad fuel pump. The problem was warped carbs. OMC's plastic carbs are prone to warping. My hack was using a heat gun to true up the mating surfaces and then using some gasket sealer to help fill in any gaps.
Did you get to the bottom of it yet I'm having fuel problems
Yes. There were multiple vacuum leaks largely due to warped plastic components. I found gaps between the mating surfaces of the bowls and carburetor housing and in the fuel pump components. I was able to use a heat gun to remove most of the gaps. But two of the bowls had to be replaced because they were beyond repair.
ua-cam.com/video/3uUujMjEaLU/v-deo.html
If you have plastic components in your fuel delivery system, check for gaps in the mating surfaces. You can also find vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid on the outside of the fuel delivery components, lines and fittings while it's running. If you hear it rev up when you spray, look for a leak in that area.
Having same issue on my 96 evinrude 90, did you figure this out? About to rebuild carb and replace the same gaskets you pointed out as well
There were multiple vacuum leaks largely due to warped plastic components. I found gaps between the mating surfaces of the bowls and carburetor housing and in the fuel pump components. I was able to use a heat gun to remove most of the gaps. But two of the bowls had to be replaced because they were beyond repair.
ua-cam.com/video/3uUujMjEaLU/v-deo.html
If you have plastic components in your fuel delivery system, check for gaps in the mating surfaces. You can also find vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid on the outside of the fuel delivery components, lines and fittings while it's running. If you hear it rev up when you spray, look for a leak in that area.
@@DC-et4li I ordered a carb rebuild kit and the vapor gasket, and prime solenoid gasket. Gonna do all that and see if it leaks when I squeeze the primer ball. Right now it’s leaking fuel like crazy from top of that vapor mixture tank thing. And hose connections at bottom of the VRO
@@BracedKILL Sounds like you got a plan. Best of luck!
Hi mate were the same problem,where did you buy that part,thanks
Cheers!
Which part are you referring too?
Often the plastic fuel fittings develop cracks and will leak fuel and/or suck air in.
True. That wasn't the problem in this case.
hey man if your out there some where i appreciate your video alot i was wondering if you mabey deleted that vapor seperator and its pump? i think i am gonna its more trouble than its worth, all the warpage that goes on with this plastic fuel system is craziness. any way i wish i could see (in good detail) your OE fuel&vacuum hose routing as well as the drain lines to and from air box that would be awesome as there is not a damn thing on hoses and diagrams to and from crankcase and other components on these engines all videos or just about deleting a freakin vro pump only hey keep up the good work and videos hope to hear from ya thanx
I appreciate your kind comments Ben. The VROs were deleted on these motors. Getting rid of the vapor separator ain't a bad idea either. Johnson really screwed up making all these parts out of plastic. One Florida summer is all it takes for them to start warping. Luckily, I've had some success using a heat gun to correct warpage.
If I still had these Johnsons I'd be happy to send you some pictures of the fuel and vacuum hose routing. But it's been returned to the owner. Best of luck working on yours. And thanks again!
@@DC-et4li hey i understand bud im just at the end of my rope with this engine and all that is required to work on it. i can clearly see why OMC went out of business producing a product like this im sticking to my yamaha's
@@superdutyf450 I love my Yamaha.
ua-cam.com/video/hX2lZeJMVT8/v-deo.html
@@superdutyf450 Not sure if you saw this one but it really shows the warpage...
ua-cam.com/video/3uUujMjEaLU/v-deo.html
How many HPDI Yamaha have blown up over a sticky injector
Did you squeeze the fuel bulb till it got hard?
Of course. By the time we got to this point we were way past that.
I see red carb gaskets on the starboard engine, those are Amazon gasket kits and they are complete garbage, swap them out with OEM gasket kits
Good eye my friend. Already done. 😀
30 year old engines gotta replace some rubber gaskets mmm
What’s the nex video with the conclusion
Thanks for watching Scott. Here's the rest of the series...
Part 3
ua-cam.com/video/ERKgu-Cs-u8/v-deo.html
Water Test
ua-cam.com/video/Jz0hmgJmLA0/v-deo.html
I know I didn't do a very good job documenting everything and wrapping it up... sorry about that. The final solution was to fix the warped part of the fuel system; I used a heat gun to reshape the plastic so the mating surfaces fit together without any gaps. I also added additional gaskets and sealant to eliminate the vacuum leak.