Looks like a blackface with a silverface front panel! And YAY on you for putting this back as much to original as possible. REVERB TIP: If you run the output from the reverb tank, into the NORMAL amp channel using appropriate RCA/1/4" cable and jack, you can EQ out all that unnecessary bass and boost the treble and get a really nice sounding internal reverb sound!! Works on pretty much all Fender amps with internal reverb and two channels.
Looking forward to the next video already. I own a vintage '64 DR as well, it's the best sounding amp I own. Definitely restore this to original as possible, I'm so glad you put in the correct output transformer and 6V6 tubes. When you get the correct faceplate (if your amp is a '64), make sure it also says "Fender Elect. Inst. Co." on it, underneath the DR name. Don't know what the deal is with all the silicone goop, I doubt it's helping much. On the tube chart, there should be two letters stamped on it - not sure if you could read those. If yours is a '64, the first letter will be an "N" (signifying 1964), the second letter will designate the month. Also, what is the serial number on the back of the chassis? Cheers!
I'm pretty sure that this amp has been modfied especially for studio work - this is a kind of amps that is highly asked for already in the 80ies, to get this sound without fuzzing big membrane mics and rhe gein in the mixer.
Very good job, these are great amps. I have a 1974 silver face in mint condition. I think the transformer you replaced is a power transformer, the out put transformer is the smaller one.
Very, very rare circuit! If that were mine, it would get a full restoration, electrically and cosmetically. There’s very good faceplates, tolex and other parts available.
Nice job! I am no expert on guitarr amplifiers, but to me I don't think it was the old transformer setup that did cause any of the problems, but i guess the particular type of sound is a very personal preference, anyway, i think You did the right thing by building it back to the original tubes in this case since that's what You are going to use, maybe the previous owner did more open air stage gigs i guess that's why he wanted to try the larger transformer setup perhaps, however, as You said here, indoor i don't think it matter since the original transformer type will definitely give You more than enough power for this.
So I work on guitar amps. To my eye, this looks like someone cobbled together two broken amps into a single amp. That silicon goop in there... Wow. Have you checked the electrolytic capacitors underneath that metal dog house? They're likely aged out. When you were cleaning up that braid, there's a product called "desoldering braid" and it's made of copper and is used to suck up solder from other areas. Probably would have worked a bit easier for you. However, I want to offer my congrats, It looks like you've done a reasonable job fixing it!
keep in mind.... aa763.....that power transformer....if it has just 2 green wires for the heaters and NO GREEN WITH YELLOW STRIPE that is grounded at the transformer bolt off a solder lug to the chassis as ground.....soldered to chassis.....it needs the 2 100 ohm resistors on the pilot light ! but if it doesn't have the 2 100 ohm resistors and NO green wire with the yellow stripe.....it may have been cut off and the stub is in the bundle of wires coming out the top of the power transformer.....so it will definitely need the 2 100 ohm resistors to ground...soldered to chassis ground. Generally the amp would most likely not have the 2 100 ohm resistors if its just 2 green wires plus thee green with yellow stripe. The original transformers DO NOT HAVE THAT COPPER BAND ON THE STACK OF LAMINATIONS......that is a faraday strap meant to cut noise. The original transformers PT's can be noisy ! I have an original here I replaced for a client on a MINT CONDITION museum piece that was too good to be true ......the replacement is a heyboer.....because YOU NEED that faraday strap ! This is when you know and understand electronics ! FAZIO didn't even know this.....and needed a consult
the original set up most likely had just the 2 green heater wires with and internal center tap ground.....so the green with yellow stripe is the center tap grounding wire.....the 100 ohm resistor pair with shared leads to ground is an ARTIFICIAL CENTER TAP GROUND SET UP ! The really late issue amps in the late 70's got a HUM BALANCE POT which it the same as the 2 100 ohm resistors set up but lets the balance point tip one way or the other to drop HUM TO ITS LOWEST LEVEL....... hence the HUM BALANCE ! Its the final improvement in the evolution of the design over time !
see how that original volume pot has the left lug soldered down to the body ! That means a mechanical ground....its grounded by tightening it to that front face with that brass plate inside.... the sandwich of them being tightened down that brass it up against steel.....2 metals that are NOT THE SAME so there is CATHODIC ACTION.....exchange of electrons meaning OXIDATION ! oxidation means resistance to ground !....its a BAD GROUNDING SCHEME ! Later they used the short braided wire leads soldered to that brass plate which was the IMPROVEMENT ! But....that brass plate NEEDS SOLDERED TO THE STEEL !! More improvement !! AND OBVIOUSLY YOU FOUND THE ISSUE WITH THE GROUNDING.....its BAD GROUNDING !! Poor assembly line construction.....and quality control......it was a basket case LEMON that was rushed to be put together on the assembly line ! The end of last shift before the weekend break.....or the morning shift on monday and somebody didn't drink their coffee in the morning.....Fender Amps were flawed this way with MISTAKES....
So for the oxidation heads out there......if you are an ELECTRICIAN and installing a main breaker box and SERVICE ENTRANCE.....the MAIN WIRE will be ALUMINUM....THE WIRE COMING IN TO THE BREAKER BOX FROM THE ELECTRIC METER ! ALUMINUM OXIDIZES QUICKLY....and the resistance created by the OXIDE LAYER FORMING ON THE SURFACE OF THE ALUMINUM in conjunction with 2 different metals and the cathodic action .....means HEAT which could cause a house fire ! SO THE ALUMINUM IS SHINED UP AND A COMPOUND CALLED --- NOALOX-- IS APPLIED as anti-oxidation prevention cream .....formulated for the ALUMINUM ! THE CONNECTION IS A MECHANICAL CONNECTION.....and thus needs the NOALOX as part of the proper procedure ! You don't have this in electronics......and WHY a MECHANICAL GROUND.....is garbage ! you want soldered proper chassis grounds !!
do you know WHY....the original reverb tank broke ??? YES THE WIRE IS BROKEN INTERNALLY......old copper gets brittle and stress cracks.....AGE .......older is NOT BETTER !! If that iss a GIBBS tank.....its still a HAMMOND tank made by HAMMOND......same exact everything.......ACCUTRONICS is HAMMOND....the same exact tank ! its redundant to switch between them.....they are both HAMMOND ! Hammond created 2 companies to give the illusion of being totally different and competition.....and it was a BOGUS ILLUSION ! There is nothing to do with older being better or original ! same with those braided cables.....the copper has gotten brittle by AGE and oxidation !
While working on the tank, he said very clearly he wasn't expecting the old RCA cables to sound any better, but was going for as original as possible. From that, I think you can deduce that's what he's thinking overall. At least for now, since he aid he's not sure what he'll do next. Maybe you missed those details because you were too busy being such a know it all.
Looks like a blackface with a silverface front panel! And YAY on you for putting this back as much to original as possible. REVERB TIP: If you run the output from the reverb tank, into the NORMAL amp channel using appropriate RCA/1/4" cable and jack, you can EQ out all that unnecessary bass and boost the treble and get a really nice sounding internal reverb sound!! Works on pretty much all Fender amps with internal reverb and two channels.
Looking forward to the next video already. I own a vintage '64 DR as well, it's the best sounding amp I own. Definitely restore this to original as possible, I'm so glad you put in the correct output transformer and 6V6 tubes. When you get the correct faceplate (if your amp is a '64), make sure it also says "Fender Elect. Inst. Co." on it, underneath the DR name. Don't know what the deal is with all the silicone goop, I doubt it's helping much.
On the tube chart, there should be two letters stamped on it - not sure if you could read those. If yours is a '64, the first letter will be an "N" (signifying 1964), the second letter will designate the month. Also, what is the serial number on the back of the chassis?
Cheers!
The tube chart is stamped NC. The chassis serial number is A 00839. Thanks for watching.
I'm pretty sure that this amp has been modfied especially for studio work - this is a kind of amps that is highly asked for already in the 80ies, to get this sound without fuzzing big membrane mics and rhe gein in the mixer.
Likes/refinishes mid century furniture, plays guitar and knows a ton about old tube amps... I think I'm in the right place. :)
Thanks for being here!
Very good job, these are great amps. I have a 1974 silver face in mint condition. I think the transformer you replaced is a power transformer, the out put transformer is the smaller one.
My 70's silver face also has a 2 prong plug and courtesy plug. I know nothing has been swapped on it because I bought it brand new in the late 70's.
Dude! Is there anything that you don’t do? Don’t tell me that you’re doing furniture repair and guitar stuff while also working a 9-5 job!
I have a '77 which I bought new says Fender Musical Instruments.
Great vid and great sound. I need to lookup how those ‘reverb tanks’ work, they look pretty wild with those long springs in them.
Very, very rare circuit! If that were mine, it would get a full restoration, electrically and cosmetically.
There’s very good faceplates, tolex and other parts available.
exciting developments! I did not expect an amp
I have a sliverface DR from 1969 and it says " deluxe reverb amp" on the front
Sounds good. I'd yell "freebird!" but I'm not that kinda person.
Did you rebias for 6V6s?
Nothing like breaking all the rules with a vintage and rare amplifer… I’m actually kinda shocked it worked. Congrats
Nearly identical power transformer as my 76 Super Reverb. My 66 Bandmaster PT is different too.
Interesting. Sounds great
Nice job! I am no expert on guitarr amplifiers, but to me I don't think it was the old transformer setup that did cause any of the problems, but i guess the particular type of sound is a very personal preference, anyway, i think You did the right thing by building it back to the original tubes in this case since that's what You are going to use, maybe the previous owner did more open air stage gigs i guess that's why he wanted to try the larger transformer setup perhaps, however, as You said here, indoor i don't think it matter since the original transformer type will definitely give You more than enough power for this.
where are YOU located and where did you acquire that amp ? Was it EAST COAST ??? Simple Question....
So I work on guitar amps. To my eye, this looks like someone cobbled together two broken amps into a single amp. That silicon goop in there... Wow. Have you checked the electrolytic capacitors underneath that metal dog house? They're likely aged out. When you were cleaning up that braid, there's a product called "desoldering braid" and it's made of copper and is used to suck up solder from other areas. Probably would have worked a bit easier for you. However, I want to offer my congrats, It looks like you've done a reasonable job fixing it!
Where did you find it? Local garage sale, or online? Love to find something like that myself.
it sounds awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
keep in mind.... aa763.....that power transformer....if it has just 2 green wires for the heaters and NO GREEN WITH YELLOW STRIPE that is grounded at the transformer bolt off a solder lug to the chassis as ground.....soldered to chassis.....it needs the 2 100 ohm resistors on the pilot light ! but if it doesn't have the 2 100 ohm resistors and NO green wire with the yellow stripe.....it may have been cut off and the stub is in the bundle of wires coming out the top of the power transformer.....so it will definitely need the 2 100 ohm resistors to ground...soldered to chassis ground. Generally the amp would most likely not have the 2 100 ohm resistors if its just 2 green wires plus thee green with yellow stripe. The original transformers DO NOT HAVE THAT COPPER BAND ON THE STACK OF LAMINATIONS......that is a faraday strap meant to cut noise. The original transformers PT's can be noisy ! I have an original here I replaced for a client on a MINT CONDITION museum piece that was too good to be true ......the replacement is a heyboer.....because YOU NEED that faraday strap ! This is when you know and understand electronics ! FAZIO didn't even know this.....and needed a consult
the original set up most likely had just the 2 green heater wires with and internal center tap ground.....so the green with yellow stripe is the center tap grounding wire.....the 100 ohm resistor pair with shared leads to ground is an ARTIFICIAL CENTER TAP GROUND SET UP ! The really late issue amps in the late 70's got a HUM BALANCE POT which it the same as the 2 100 ohm resistors set up but lets the balance point tip one way or the other to drop HUM TO ITS LOWEST LEVEL....... hence the HUM BALANCE ! Its the final improvement in the evolution of the design over time !
Nice job and a great video....
Where on the planet are you?
I'm in picturesque Koreatown, Los Angeles...
Cheerios
Thanks, I’m in Minneapolis.
You should have tried it on 11 🤟🏻
Next video.
see how that original volume pot has the left lug soldered down to the body ! That means a mechanical ground....its grounded by tightening it to that front face with that brass plate inside.... the sandwich of them being tightened down that brass it up against steel.....2 metals that are NOT THE SAME so there is CATHODIC ACTION.....exchange of electrons meaning OXIDATION ! oxidation means resistance to ground !....its a BAD GROUNDING SCHEME ! Later they used the short braided wire leads soldered to that brass plate which was the IMPROVEMENT ! But....that brass plate NEEDS SOLDERED TO THE STEEL !! More improvement !! AND OBVIOUSLY YOU FOUND THE ISSUE WITH THE GROUNDING.....its BAD GROUNDING !! Poor assembly line construction.....and quality control......it was a basket case LEMON that was rushed to be put together on the assembly line ! The end of last shift before the weekend break.....or the morning shift on monday and somebody didn't drink their coffee in the morning.....Fender Amps were flawed this way with MISTAKES....
So for the oxidation heads out there......if you are an ELECTRICIAN and installing a main breaker box and SERVICE ENTRANCE.....the MAIN WIRE will be ALUMINUM....THE WIRE COMING IN TO THE BREAKER BOX FROM THE ELECTRIC METER ! ALUMINUM OXIDIZES QUICKLY....and the resistance created by the OXIDE LAYER FORMING ON THE SURFACE OF THE ALUMINUM in conjunction with 2 different metals and the cathodic action .....means HEAT which could cause a house fire ! SO THE ALUMINUM IS SHINED UP AND A COMPOUND CALLED --- NOALOX-- IS APPLIED as anti-oxidation prevention cream .....formulated for the ALUMINUM ! THE CONNECTION IS A MECHANICAL CONNECTION.....and thus needs the NOALOX as part of the proper procedure ! You don't have this in electronics......and WHY a MECHANICAL GROUND.....is garbage ! you want soldered proper chassis grounds !!
do you know WHY....the original reverb tank broke ??? YES THE WIRE IS BROKEN INTERNALLY......old copper gets brittle and stress cracks.....AGE .......older is NOT BETTER !! If that iss a GIBBS tank.....its still a HAMMOND tank made by HAMMOND......same exact everything.......ACCUTRONICS is HAMMOND....the same exact tank ! its redundant to switch between them.....they are both HAMMOND ! Hammond created 2 companies to give the illusion of being totally different and competition.....and it was a BOGUS ILLUSION ! There is nothing to do with older being better or original ! same with those braided cables.....the copper has gotten brittle by AGE and oxidation !
While working on the tank, he said very clearly he wasn't expecting the old RCA cables to sound any better, but was going for as original as possible. From that, I think you can deduce that's what he's thinking overall. At least for now, since he aid he's not sure what he'll do next. Maybe you missed those details because you were too busy being such a know it all.
Check out the UA-cam channel Fazio Electric. Young woman who repairs vintage amps. Great resource, she knows her stuff