Interesting way to make a machine base a great way to approach this, two new subscribers here we will watch to learn from you your ways. Wow is that your power cabinet lighter blue green behind the surface grinder if it is, that looks so neat to us. What a nice shop this is great to be here, thank you. Lance & Patrick.
the level is only a guide to set up the lathe level ish, the true test or set up is done when the lathe is running and test cuts are made close to the chuck 1st then about 6" away from the chuck by taking light test cuts then adjusting the feet if the bar stock is cutting a taper
Great to hear about lots of work,I was told by a successful engineering friend that never have more than 30% of work from one customer.One day you will have a moveable pallet robot loader unloader.
dunno if anyone cares but if you're stoned like me atm then you can watch pretty much all of the latest movies on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my brother these days =)
Nice to hear from you and to see the lathe in progress. I probably would have put it all together before leveling it. I think it will move when you put the gearbox and cross slide and tailstuck, before you pour concrete. After concert if it moves you can't adjust it . can't Wait to see the first chip.
regarding your leveling, the point is to be able to turn a right circular cylinder. even if it was perfect you would still check the change in diameter along long parts and be adjusting with sandpaper as you approach the final dimension. Rubber seals can absorb .002 cm variations. the .0002 cm per 10 cm is well within bearing interference fit specs, but again you would still be sanding if you want to be a perfectionist. I expect a long rod will flex >.002 cm even with a follow rest. And you still have the tail stock wiggle and alignment which you have not mentioned. therefore, it looks close enough.
Re paralleling the ways, I will check how my ways are & see how they compare, the biggest problem I had when paralleling was my inner machines he would not shut up & kept telling me it should be better, like no movement in the bubble. I own & used a 0,02mm/m per deviation level, it downed on me how sensitive the level was when the bubble moved because I removed a bottle of bourbon from the desk it had been on for a day or so. www.leveldevelopments.com/products/engineers-level/engineers-levels/61r-0-02-200-engineers-level-200mm-long-sens-0-02mmm/ P.s The baby cucumbers in vinegar are gherkins in British English that is, best pronounced with a Scottish accent aka the accent of a pirate. Gherkin en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pickled_cucumber#Historical_origins en.wiktionary.org/wiki/gherkin
At the beginning of the video you mentioned you were not happy with the jobs. It was starting to feel like you were going to mention. Your Workers were the reason for this. But it,s good that this is not the case. It,s funny looking at the empty space at the beginning of the video. Now you are mostly running CNC machines as compared to the beginning of your channel where you were mostly running manual machines in this now empty space. Wish you all the best for the future. Regards Peter.
@@sunppaa "build it and they will come" it's great to know there's a real desire/market for skill/competency... here's the .NL version of colin furze: ua-cam.com/users/mastermilo82
I'm going to post this question here as it's your most recent upload. We have a TOS SN63B lathe at work ( like yours if I'm correct) that we have many questions about. We've acquired the available literature and diagrams, but we still have questions. The simplest being, how do you change the feed speeds? We have no idea as to how to cut with a slow feed rate at higher speed to improve cut quality. How do you engage the lead screw? I could go on, but I'll spare you that.The lathe has been in service and still is today. However, I'm sure performance could be improved vastly if we had more information. We know there are some mechanical issues, but we don't know if something isn't working, or if we're moving the correct lever. I've looked extensively, and information like this on TOS lathes is scarce. So, I'm reaching out to you. Lucky you. I'd take a short how to video if possible. Honestly, I'll take any help I can get any way I can get it. I understand if you don't have the time as you sound quite busy.
We've made some progress, but I'll still take any information you'll provide. Very kind of you to offer help. Our most glaring mechanical issue is that the clutch will not disengage completely. The chuck will still turn slowly when out of gear, and we must turn the lathe off to change gears. Not the end of the world, but not correct either. We've also struggled with the tail stock. We align it, but as it's moved down the bed it goes out of alignment. We've yet to decipher that issue. The plan now is to deal with it on a case by case basis. Again, any help / insight into this machine will be greatly appreciated!@@sunppaa
Mikä kärkiväli tuossa sorvissa on? En kyllä usko että nuo muutaman satkun heitot paljoa tuntuu. Kelkan kanssa heitot häviää vielä aika olemattomiin. Joskus sitten kun saat sorvin kasaan ja karalaatikon ja pylkän linjattua, sorvaat paksun akselin niin tietää parhaiten missä mennään :)
Korea techics. Kierrokset pakko olla vähintään tuon verran, koska karan vääntö alkaa muuten tipahtaa pian. Syöttö lukee videolla koneen näytöllä, mutta muistaakseni joku 7 satkua kierrokselle.
@@sunppaa Ne on kyllä hyviä poria. Tolle kannattas käsin muokata ensin pienemmällä syötöllä parit ekat millit että terät lähtee leikkaamaan ja sitten nostaa syöttö.. Tuntuu koneen puolesta pahalle aina tommonen värinä :D :D
if you think the lathe will perform better go for it. However, I think what you have is good enough. Just check it from time to time because I'm sure the only thing you can really count on is change. Good luck.
Those crossfeed relays on the surface grinder sound really loud and lazy. Maybe the contacts in them are worn and momentarily weld in the closed position. Just a suggestion
Good suggestion! But I doubt that's whats happening because it only happens when I set the cross stepover high, works perfectly with smaller stepover adjustments..? Am I missing something?
@@sunppaa Well what you're describing could still be linked to temporary welding of the contacts. You see if the contacts are worn so much (or have carbon build-up etc.) that there is an increased resistance for current to flow through the bridged contacts, maybe that increased resistance combined with the longer time the relay is on are making the contacts heat and weld to each other (like spot welding). But for shorter on times there isn't enough heat build up. I'm just making wild assumptions here but it's something to look at...
If the readings don't change after you get the headstock, carriage, and tailstock back on, I'd think you should leave well enough alone. There's an equal chance of making the level worse rather than better.
Right now I'm planning on casting the base first and then installing the headstock but now that you mention it, I'm not sure if that's the right order to progress.. However I don't think installing the head will change anything because the support from the bolts and casting should be really strong. I still want to think about this and maybe share my thoughts in the next video. Thanks for the comment!
Interesting way to make a machine base a great way to approach this, two new subscribers here we will watch to learn from you your ways. Wow is that your power cabinet lighter blue green behind the surface grinder if it is, that looks so neat to us. What a nice shop this is great to be here, thank you. Lance & Patrick.
It's just my way of doing things, and I never claim my way to be the best one :-). That cabinet is the smallest of 3 cabinets in that building :-).
Great to see a new one. Thanks, Buddy.
the level is only a guide to set up the lathe level ish, the true test or set up is done when the lathe is running and test cuts are made close to the chuck 1st then about 6" away from the chuck by taking light test cuts then adjusting the feet if the bar stock is cutting a taper
Good start on levelling the lathe , it can be a painful process , cheers .
a really old machine made in the 60's. lol What does that make me? I came into this world in the 50's. Thanks for the video!
Great to hear about lots of work,I was told by a successful engineering friend that never have more than 30% of work from one customer.One day you will have a moveable pallet robot loader unloader.
dunno if anyone cares but if you're stoned like me atm then you can watch pretty much all of the latest movies on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my brother these days =)
@Armani Zayne yup, I have been watching on Instaflixxer for months myself =)
Nice to hear from you and to see the lathe in progress. I probably would have put it all together before leveling it. I think it will move when you put the gearbox and cross slide and tailstuck, before you pour concrete. After concert if it moves you can't adjust it . can't Wait to see the first chip.
regarding your leveling, the point is to be able to turn a right circular cylinder. even if it was perfect you would still check the change in diameter along long parts and be adjusting with sandpaper as you approach the final dimension. Rubber seals can absorb .002 cm variations. the .0002 cm per 10 cm is well within bearing interference fit specs, but again you would still be sanding if you want to be a perfectionist. I expect a long rod will flex >.002 cm even with a follow rest. And you still have the tail stock wiggle and alignment which you have not mentioned. therefore, it looks close enough.
Re paralleling the ways, I will check how my ways are & see how they compare, the biggest problem I had when paralleling was my inner machines he would not shut up & kept telling me it should be better, like no movement in the bubble.
I own & used a 0,02mm/m per deviation level, it downed on me how sensitive the level was when the bubble moved because I removed a bottle of bourbon from the desk it had been on for a day or so. www.leveldevelopments.com/products/engineers-level/engineers-levels/61r-0-02-200-engineers-level-200mm-long-sens-0-02mmm/
P.s The baby cucumbers in vinegar are gherkins in British English that is, best pronounced with a Scottish accent aka the accent of a pirate.
Gherkin
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pickled_cucumber#Historical_origins
en.wiktionary.org/wiki/gherkin
At the beginning of the video you mentioned you were not happy with the jobs.
It was starting to feel like you were going to mention.
Your Workers were the reason for this.
But it,s good that this is not the case.
It,s funny looking at the empty space at the beginning of the video.
Now you are mostly running CNC machines as compared to the beginning of your channel where you were mostly running manual machines in this now empty space.
Wish you all the best for the future.
Regards Peter.
Good to hear business is good!
Not saying it's good but at least it's plentiful :-)!
@@sunppaa
"build it and they will come"
it's great to know there's a real desire/market for skill/competency...
here's the .NL version of colin furze: ua-cam.com/users/mastermilo82
I'm going to post this question here as it's your most recent upload. We have a TOS SN63B lathe at work ( like yours if I'm correct) that we have many questions about. We've acquired the available literature and diagrams, but we still have questions. The simplest being, how do you change the feed speeds? We have no idea as to how to cut with a slow feed rate at higher speed to improve cut quality. How do you engage the lead screw? I could go on, but I'll spare you that.The lathe has been in service and still is today. However, I'm sure performance could be improved vastly if we had more information. We know there are some mechanical issues, but we don't know if something isn't working, or if we're moving the correct lever. I've looked extensively, and information like this on TOS lathes is scarce. So, I'm reaching out to you. Lucky you. I'd take a short how to video if possible. Honestly, I'll take any help I can get any way I can get it. I understand if you don't have the time as you sound quite busy.
Hi Joe! Happy to make a vid for you if you are still in need of help!
We've made some progress, but I'll still take any information you'll provide. Very kind of you to offer help. Our most glaring mechanical issue is that the clutch will not disengage completely. The chuck will still turn slowly when out of gear, and we must turn the lathe off to change gears. Not the end of the world, but not correct either. We've also struggled with the tail stock. We align it, but as it's moved down the bed it goes out of alignment. We've yet to decipher that issue. The plan now is to deal with it on a case by case basis. Again, any help / insight into this machine will be greatly appreciated!@@sunppaa
Mikä kärkiväli tuossa sorvissa on? En kyllä usko että nuo muutaman satkun heitot paljoa tuntuu. Kelkan kanssa heitot häviää vielä aika olemattomiin. Joskus sitten kun saat sorvin kasaan ja karalaatikon ja pylkän linjattua, sorvaat paksun akselin niin tietää parhaiten missä mennään :)
Metrin kärkiväli. Luulen kanssa että noin on ihan ok. Ja tosiaan jonkun tovin sitä säädellyt enkä ihan helpolla enää paremmaksikaan sitä saa :D.
What is happening with your horizontal msc? You haven't showed any production!
Minkä valmistajan u-pora toi on? Ainakin leikkuunopeus korkea jos 280m/min vauhtia.. Paljon syöttö?
Korea techics. Kierrokset pakko olla vähintään tuon verran, koska karan vääntö alkaa muuten tipahtaa pian. Syöttö lukee videolla koneen näytöllä, mutta muistaakseni joku 7 satkua kierrokselle.
@@sunppaa Ne on kyllä hyviä poria. Tolle kannattas käsin muokata ensin pienemmällä syötöllä parit ekat millit että terät lähtee leikkaamaan ja sitten nostaa syöttö.. Tuntuu koneen puolesta pahalle aina tommonen värinä :D :D
Time for a little update. :)
Soon! :-)
lol I was wondering. Soon it is. Thanks :) @@sunppaa
if you think the lathe will perform better go for it. However, I think what you have is good enough. Just check it from time to time because I'm sure the only thing you can really count on is change. Good luck.
I hope it will not change much, because it will be a pain to adjust it afterwards!
I think that plate was a guillotine blade.
Yes something like that.
Those crossfeed relays on the surface grinder sound really loud and lazy. Maybe the contacts in them are worn and momentarily weld in the closed position. Just a suggestion
Good suggestion! But I doubt that's whats happening because it only happens when I set the cross stepover high, works perfectly with smaller stepover adjustments..? Am I missing something?
@@sunppaa Well what you're describing could still be linked to temporary welding of the contacts. You see if the contacts are worn so much (or have carbon build-up etc.) that there is an increased resistance for current to flow through the bridged contacts, maybe that increased resistance combined with the longer time the relay is on are making the contacts heat and weld to each other (like spot welding). But for shorter on times there isn't enough heat build up. I'm just making wild assumptions here but it's something to look at...
"Juha was here with Aira Samulin"...seriously?
Do you seriously know Aira Samulin!!? But no, she was not here, it is just kind of an inside joke :D.
latvietis?
If the readings don't change after you get the headstock, carriage, and tailstock back on, I'd think you should leave well enough alone. There's an equal chance of making the level worse rather than better.
Right now I'm planning on casting the base first and then installing the headstock but now that you mention it, I'm not sure if that's the right order to progress.. However I don't think installing the head will change anything because the support from the bolts and casting should be really strong. I still want to think about this and maybe share my thoughts in the next video. Thanks for the comment!
Craftsman mower ?? that is a "Sears" product (PS "hobbies" make bookkeepers sooo unhappy)