FYI. The 12 amp C/B or fuse, called out by the instructions, is only to protect the wiring. Since you opted for the 14 AWG wire, then a 15 amp fuse would be proper. They probably stated 12 amps in case you ran 16 AWG in a bundle thru a hot engine compartment per ABYC standards. If worried about it, then use a 10 amp fuse. Switching to a glass fuse to get exactly 12 amps is not necessary, but kudos to you for following the directions explicitly.
Really nice install! Like the orientation of the plug. What clips are you using to attach to the fiberglass that holds the power cable? Did you use a special adhesive? (As seen at 12:12 that the cable tie is connected to)
When you installed the brass tube on the side of your boat was there anything underneath the fiberglass to provide support or was it just empty space below the fiberglass? Thanks.
It was foam core inside. Very brittle foam though. I put some epoxy in the void hoping it would stiffen the foam a bit and give it more structure. Not sure how well that worked, but the socket has been solid
Hey thanks getting ready to buy and install in my sailboat. I'm going to also install a second battery. Wondering what would be best in your opinion now that you have had this in your boat. I see you are running a 35 amp now. My main battery is a 70 amp. Just don't want to run the st1000 off my main and find out I can't start my motor at the end of the day.
I don’t use it but maybe 15-20 min per outing (usually while changing headsails on a beam reach or raising sails motoring into the wind). In those two cases it’s not doing a lot of steering because the boat tracks well so consumption is lower. Consumption depends heavily on use, good sail trim and helm balance. Second battery is a great idea if you have an electric start outboard. I’d try it out, monitor battery voltage closely, and see what kind of consumption you have on your boat for your intended uses…
@@ColoradoSailing Thanks Dave, I will be using it in a similar fashion. I've been rigging my boat for self sterring which works well upto a beam reach. But it would be nice for motoring and down wind sailing is alot harder to get my boat to stay on course. I have a inboard yanmar just worried about it draining the battery to low. If your interested in seeing how I rig for self steering this is the link: ua-cam.com/video/dbPzy8zhC6Y/v-deo.html
@@Jyock sounds like you have a good plan. I still use a bungee across my stern pulpit quite a bit more for quick tasks…autotiller for not-so-quick tasks. For downwind, in high winds the Raymarine owners manual says don’t go lower than 30 degrees from dead downwind. I’ve used it on a nice broad reach and it tracked well.
It’s part of the initial setup. The tiller pilot will come with default values, but you should customize based on your boat. So things like cruising speed, operating latitude, rudder gain, alarms, etc all have to be programmed. For sea sense, you hold down the +1 and -1 keys at the same time and it will switch from the default starboard over to port.
@@ColoradoSailing Thank you Dave, This seems simple enough. My st1000 should be arriving this Wednesday July 5th or maybe the 6th. I may be contacting you a again if you don't mind. Tan k you again, Michael
Hi. My steering tiller handle is backwards.I guess it was made that way, so u can do fishing from the back of the boat and be able to steer it while there, So if I install a raymarine, my boat will wanna steer the opposite direction of what raymarine is trying to turn. Do you have any idea if there is a setting or adjustment for that?
Yes. The ST1000 can be mounted on either side of the boat (default is starboard). The “sea sense” setting (port or starboard) will reverse the direction it steers to get to a specific heading.
Hard to say since consumption varies greatly with how much it has to adjust…which is a function of sail trim and conditions. I have a small 35aH battery, so I’m *guessing* I could run it for 3.5 hours (assuming 5 amp draw and not taking battery below 12.3V or 1/2 of battery’s capacity).
I have ST2000, the issue is that pushrod will not stop when it is all out or all in! The motor works even when the pushrod is all out or all in, I have to be there and turn it off (stand by it) if it is happening! How come there are no limited switch installers in the system!? I have sent it to Raymarine for service but they said there is nothing wrong with it!!
FYI. The 12 amp C/B or fuse, called out by the instructions, is only to protect the wiring. Since you opted for the 14 AWG wire, then a 15 amp fuse would be proper. They probably stated 12 amps in case you ran 16 AWG in a bundle thru a hot engine compartment per ABYC standards. If worried about it, then use a 10 amp fuse. Switching to a glass fuse to get exactly 12 amps is not necessary, but kudos to you for following the directions explicitly.
Thanks! That’s good info that I did not know. I tested with a 10 amp blade fuse and had no issues. But currently have the 12 amp glass fuse in there.
Tutorials are great !
Really nice install! Like the orientation of the plug. What clips are you using to attach to the fiberglass that holds the power cable? Did you use a special adhesive? (As seen at 12:12 that the cable tie is connected to)
The clips are just peel and stick wire clips I found at Home Depot.
When you installed the brass tube on the side of your boat was there anything underneath the fiberglass to provide support or was it just empty space below the fiberglass? Thanks.
It was foam core inside. Very brittle foam though. I put some epoxy in the void hoping it would stiffen the foam a bit and give it more structure. Not sure how well that worked, but the socket has been solid
Nice "licenseplate" in the back. Hope you had a great time
Dank je wel, mijn moeder is van Amersfoort! 😄 🇳🇱
@@ColoradoSailing Fell in love with a Wolfhound at Soesterberg once upon a time? ;-) I lived nearby
@@jopieavier7825 Yup. That’s where my Dad was stationed in the late 60s! 😀
@@ColoradoSailing Small world!
Hey thanks getting ready to buy and install in my sailboat. I'm going to also install a second battery. Wondering what would be best in your opinion now that you have had this in your boat. I see you are running a 35 amp now. My main battery is a 70 amp. Just don't want to run the st1000 off my main and find out I can't start my motor at the end of the day.
I don’t use it but maybe 15-20 min per outing (usually while changing headsails on a beam reach or raising sails motoring into the wind). In those two cases it’s not doing a lot of steering because the boat tracks well so consumption is lower. Consumption depends heavily on use, good sail trim and helm balance. Second battery is a great idea if you have an electric start outboard. I’d try it out, monitor battery voltage closely, and see what kind of consumption you have on your boat for your intended uses…
@@ColoradoSailing Thanks Dave, I will be using it in a similar fashion. I've been rigging my boat for self sterring which works well upto a beam reach. But it would be nice for motoring and down wind sailing is alot harder to get my boat to stay on course. I have a inboard yanmar just worried about it draining the battery to low. If your interested in seeing how I rig for self steering this is the link: ua-cam.com/video/dbPzy8zhC6Y/v-deo.html
@@Jyock sounds like you have a good plan. I still use a bungee across my stern pulpit quite a bit more for quick tasks…autotiller for not-so-quick tasks. For downwind, in high winds the Raymarine owners manual says don’t go lower than 30 degrees from dead downwind. I’ve used it on a nice broad reach and it tracked well.
Hello Dave,
I have ordered a ST1000 and I like you would like install it on the port side. How do you go about changing the sea state??
It’s part of the initial setup. The tiller pilot will come with default values, but you should customize based on your boat. So things like cruising speed, operating latitude, rudder gain, alarms, etc all have to be programmed. For sea sense, you hold down the +1 and -1 keys at the same time and it will switch from the default starboard over to port.
@@ColoradoSailing
Thank you Dave,
This seems simple enough. My st1000 should be arriving this Wednesday July 5th or maybe the 6th. I may be contacting you a again if you don't mind.
Tan k you again,
Michael
Hi. My steering tiller handle is backwards.I guess it was made that way, so u can do fishing from the back of the boat and be able to steer it while there, So if I install a raymarine, my boat will wanna steer the opposite direction of what raymarine is trying to turn. Do you have any idea if there is a setting or adjustment for that?
Yes. The ST1000 can be mounted on either side of the boat (default is starboard). The “sea sense” setting (port or starboard) will reverse the direction it steers to get to a specific heading.
Hello. Great install video. But I’m most interested in where you got your shirt! I’d like to get a few for my boat and it’s crew! Thank you b
My wife’s aunt made them for us! Her small business is in St Louis and she’s on instagram as “forroyaltyprints”
Hey Dave, Nice installation. What battery charge life do you expect with steady use of the autopilot?
Hard to say since consumption varies greatly with how much it has to adjust…which is a function of sail trim and conditions. I have a small 35aH battery, so I’m *guessing* I could run it for 3.5 hours (assuming 5 amp draw and not taking battery below 12.3V or 1/2 of battery’s capacity).
Have you changed something to the software doing left hand instalation?
Yes, there is a setting you have to change in the set up menu for port side installation. The factory default is starboard side installation.
I have ST2000, the issue is that pushrod will not stop when it is all out or all in! The motor works even when the pushrod is all out or all in, I have to be there and turn it off (stand by it) if it is happening! How come there are no limited switch installers in the system!?
I have sent it to Raymarine for service but they said there is nothing wrong with it!!
My ST1000 does not do that. If it hits the end of travel and still needs more steering an alarm goes off…but the motor stops.