“It’s expensive because we gotta keep the local stores open, pay the designers and artists, and pay off the corporate overlords mostly, but it’s irrelevant that our supreme leaders need for another Bugatti” - a totally real employee of the imperium
Fun fact, industrial assembly in a country that doesn't use slave labour is expensive. Warhammer costs money because it isn't made by fume choked serfs in China, but people being paid enough money to actually survive in the UK. If you want to talk about markups, ho complain about phones.
As far as I understand: The cost of the actual plastic is actually pennies on the dollar. The majority of the cost for models are in design and creating injection molds. Artists, Designers, and Engineers need to be paid. The injection molds also needs to be paid for (and apparently each one can cost upwards of $200,000 for high quality industrial molds meant for constant repeated use). Then there's supply and logistics. These are made in the UK and then shipped all over the world. I heard they did have some factories in China for stuff like terrain but last I heard they were shuttering them due to issues. Should the cost be as high as they are? Probably not. However, doing a direct cost comparison of materials and equipment is cutting out a lot of other considerations. For me, personally, I much prefer my models be in plastic. Until plastic printers are as good as resin printers, I'll probably end up paying that premium. The other issue is that GW doesn't have great competition. It's not that they lack competition but GW is the big fish and only they can offer the things I want. For the most part, GW plastic is good quality, the sculpts are well done, and it's not made with questionable labor. I think it's great that 3D Printing Hobbyists can create an entire army for only a fraction of the price of buying from GW. Please continue having fun with the hobby in whatever capacity you can and want to. Also, please continue to let me bum Krieger heads for my Guard army.
what i do like is gw stores permit 3d prints if the main body is plastic, hell ive gotten away with full printed terminators without anyone even batting an eye, maybe in a few years the models will get good enough to rival the quality of plastic
"Should the costs be as high as they are, probably not" that's the issue. I 100% agree with the logistical side of pricing being an issue, but they are certainly pricing WAY higher than needed.
Companies like Archon studios make high quality injected plastic miniatures and terrain, for games like Conquest and made some minies for creators like Black Magic Craft. They make their own molds, from cnc machined aluminium. They wear down over time due to the diesel effect. Yet a box of 3 minies for Conquest comparable to the size of a contemptor dreadnought can be bought for 40$. And that's counting paying designers for the molds, cnc engineers, being made in Poland, paying to have the molds replaced periodically and for the plastic, plus a markup for being sold by Parabellum. So while the cost of designing and manufacturing is still a factor, you can get the same amount of plastic 3 times cheaper. 6 times even if you buy from some cheap resellers that got it on sales.
Once a mold is created, and it costs about $10,000 total, up to 60,000 prints can be made from it before it starts to deteriorate. At $5 per sprue retail you've got $290,000 return. How many sprues in a GW kit for how much? If you want a tour of a figure manufacturing company check out Goobertown hobbies video where he visits one, eye opening on how it works and the costs involved. The only ones losing money are consumers who buy GW products. The Landraider kit alone would have paid for all development, production, distribution for itself seconds after release.
A lot of people I know say that they break easily. I would recommend a cure box but a tub with a lid is what most my friends use (even when they have wash stations they just stopped using them, haha).
@@Mockthenerd Washing stations are also a hell to clean. Resin sticks to the walls of the plastic containers. I use old ice cream tubs (one for 1st dirty isopropanol bath, one for rinsing water, and a 2d finishing isopropanol bath). I use old toothbrushes on the first bath, and put the second bath tub hermetically closed floating in water in the ultrasonic cleaner for 3mn. It's an expensive setup I know but the models get out of the bath squeaky clean, with no uncured residues and with the best definition possible.
@@battlebrothersam I have the elegoo one that was bundled with the mars and its pretty breezy to clean and use. Was about $100 on sale so I bought it from the start. Can't compare to not having it.
For water washable resin I use the Elegoo Mercury (the non-plus one) for curing and wash the models with a spray bottle and a smallish Ikea 365+ tub with a sealed lid. Once enough water has collected in the tub, I pre-rinse the models and then spray them down. (before that I just spray them down) Small parts I let air dry and for bigger parts I use a cheap blowdryer. It's not perfect, but since I paint everything I make it doesn't have to be absolutely 100%. Once the tub is halfway filled, I siphon off about a quarter of the liquid into empty soda bottles using a funnel so the contaminated water can be safely disposed of later. Just have to be careful when pouring into the funnel in order to avoid spills.
Awesome video! Side note, ALWAYS remove supports before curing. Wash in IPA or other solvent and then a hot water bath will soften the supports and make them easy to remove. this step changed my resin experience after years of printing without it!
@@MrJelloid hot tap water only! just keep in mind that the parts will bend if you leave them in for too long. My usual process once a print is done is as follows: 1) Pull the whole build plate and place in the wash n Cure station. I do a 2-4 minute cycle depending on the detail of the minis and if they are large hollow pieces or not. 2)While the cure station is running, fill up a pickle keeper container (w/internal strainer basket) with hot tap water and prep my cleaning area with fresh paper towels. 3)Once the cleaning cycle is done, pull the build plate and scrape off the figures, adding them into the hot water as I go. I then clean the build plate and reset everything for the next print. By that time, the hot water has had a chance to loosen up the supports and I'll carefully remove everything, making sure to dunk and drain and hollow models several more times. 4)using a hobby knife, clippers, and tweezers, I remove the remaining micro supports, any internal supports and clean up and remnants before spraying some IPA on the model and using a soft toothbrush to hit the detailed areas to make sure it's a crisp as possible. This step also helps dry the print before curing. 5)Cure externally and internally for hollowed prints. DONE!
This is the 3d printing models video ive been waiting for extremely informative and helpful overall thank you for shedding alot of light on a potential future venture
My brother wasn’t big into the hobby and didn’t want to spend anything really on getting into it, fortunately I had my printer and so now he has a full 2k point army (and extra) to use if he ever feels like playing I will say I love building plastic models and resin doesn’t quite compare in that regard, but for everything else resin all the way
I find that my resin containment and cleaning supplies are where a lot of my money ended up going. I have a small grow tent hooked up to a fan that vents outside that probably added another hundred or so. 3d printing also has a more restrictive time commitment than off the sprue. Still a LOT cheaper than GW, but the startup cost can be quite a bit.
Yes ipa gloves and resin are my biggest recurring costs but I suppose its to be expected and when I say biggest it's still cheaper than buying the boxes of sprues lol
But for literally LESS than a single 2.5k army you can get a 3d printer and a wash and cure station and all the supplies and print 3-5 armies and then start doing commissions for your friends as needed. Just a bit more value... Only way GW can compete is if they drop the cost per army down to under $200.
Instant subscription. I've been trying to get into the hobby, and price has been prohibitive for years. You saved me time, money, and gave me access to this game that I've been fascinated.
I love 40k, but playing the tabletop has always been a far, FAAAR dream for me. Living in Brazil makes things almost impossible for non-millionaire Warhammer fans, bc GW doesn't even sell here, so you HAVE to import the models on top of paying WAY TOO MUCH for them in the first place. But now its different, the stuff you showed here makes collecting 40k cheaper by AN ENTIRE ORDER OF MAGNITUDE, and I might just do it in the future.
Great video Sam! Just a note, you don't have to use isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for rinsing/cleaning standard resin - you can use methylated spirits (also known as "denatured alcohol") too. This can be handy as certainly where I'm from methylated spirits is considerably cheaper and more widely available than IPA :) Do the cost calculations where you are of course!
Thanks brother! I think I looked at it before, is that like white spirits? Ipa is actually a pain for me to get in Northern Ireland lol I had to find a local supplier but I think when I looked into alternatives I had seen other spirits listed, is there a risk of the resin melting in it?
@@battlebrothersam White spirits are a petroleum-based solvent and methylated spirits are an alcohol-based solvent. So they're not really the same thing. That's why the methylated sprits work on resin (alcohol based). In NZ I just buy it from our DIY stores, I see online that B&Q sells it in the UK for about £9 per L. So perhaps try your local DIY or home decorating stores? Bear in mind though, that I know internationally that some countries seem to have abundant cheap isopropyl alcohol available so methylated spirits aren't for everyone. Use whatever is cheaper! :)
@@ajsl I just Googled it which I should've done before replying lol I know what you mean now! Thanks for the tip brother I might try it when my ipa supply runs out
@@antongunther3977 True. However not all resin's are equal. And I have experienced more failed prints with the cheap stuff. Fortunately the good stuff is NOT crazy expensive.
pro tip to new 3d printers out there. Resin quality matters, you will get a nicer experience with the quality stuff. It shouldn't price you out of the hobby though! The standard anycubic resin you can get for about $25 bucks per L is cheap, but smells super bad. My house hold is super sensitive to the smell of it as well. The phrozen 4k resin I've been using recently has only given me 2 print failures over 3 bottles and has almost no smell ($30/L).
Had the same problem :) my solution was Primacreator Value Water Washable resin it have little to no smell and can be clened with warm water a a little soap :)
I've been using sunlu abs like for quite a bit now, about $22 a liter and really, really low odor. Only problem is it's kind of thick, So you will want to let your prints hang for any excess to drop off, else you will burn through IPA. Might look into water washable i'm being honest.
@@TheGoatPC water washable isn't great. It doesn't really clean that well and most people have a rough time getting it to work. To save on IPA I would adopt a 2-3 step washing procedure. (for 2 step you just do a dirty and clean wash, though I highly recommend the 3 step) 1. Have a "dirty wash" for fresh prints. This is basically old IPA that is there to get the initial resin off the print. 2. A intermediate wash. This wash is a bit cleaner than the dirty wash (IE it isn't as saturated with resin). It removes more of the resin that the dirty wash left behind. 3. Clean wash. This is the last step and cleans your prints of any remaining residue. When the dirty wash is no longer doing anything you can put the container in the sun and treat it as your recycling batch to cure the resin trapped within it. You than "promote" the intermediate wash to a dirty wash and the clean wash to the new intermediate wash. You than pour recycled/new IPA to become your new clean wash.
@@antongunther3977 From what i've seen in my 3d printing groups, that is not correct. Water washable seems to pick up the details just fine while washing with no issues. I am aware of the various "wash buckets", it's still more expensive then using water..
What I've been recently doing is printing Death Korps of Krieg. They don't have as much detail as the resin casted infantry, BUT that's mostly the model's fault. The creator I print models from releases cleaner models that are easily printed and I absolutely love them, more so than the Forgeworld equivalent hilariously enough. If you want to see some cost savings there, the cost of print 10 kriegsman is ~$3 USD. The cost to buy the same from FW? $79 or $60 in plastic from GW (granted the plastic kit is absolutely amazing and comes with extra bits), and that is NOT including your local state taxes and the such, or the time for delivery from FW. Or I could print ~200 Kriegsman for the same price o.o I don't know man. 60 points of Kriegers for ~$86 after my local tax, or 70 points of Veteran Guardsmen (Grenadiers) from GW for ~$65 USD or 1200 points for ~$62 USD? Anybody who wants to argue the cost of a "3D printer not being calculated meh" into a horde army such as Guardsman can just shush themselves, because my previous 1500 points of Guardsmen cost me nearly $1,800 USD to assemble. I shudder to think how much I could create with Resin nowadays.
I have a lot of kreig printed off your right they are possibly the single army that you can't argue with price wise from 3d printed vs official models with the savings
Even a mechanised guard army is super expensive, I priced it out 12 years ago at $800 just for the vehicles and these days it's probably double that. I'd bet tau is similar.
sure cool, but you now have an army of 200 kriegsmen who if dropped instantly break and shatter, and who you ideally should spend at minimum 30 minutes painting. The issue for resin is the fact that it breaks and the amount of time, setup and space/practise and patience you need to have for it, and what tends to be an issue for me when collecting an army is not at all the price, but the fact it takes forever to actually paint. even for simple armies like knights, and thats with me owning an airbrush. So adding even more time to the process, that is getting a printer, learning to use it, getting it to a reliable enough printing state where you dont misprint half the time, have a proper workspace and workflow, and have space for it without potentially harming yourself (so dedicated shed/venting setup) If you can do all that you probably live in a house, and not an apartment. i have printed an acastus knight (1.5 kg worth of resin for that one) and taunar, alongside tons of other things, but they are too fragile, and too much work and too heavy, it just makes you spend time making models you will never paint. most importantly, you cant play with an unpainted printed army, unless you have a friend who wants to, your LGS is not gonna let you play a purely printed army.
@@GlowingSpamraam So here's the funny part, and I mean complete offense, I actually know what I'm talking about. :) As somebody who has paid MSRP from the Citadel Cafe, for 1200 points (of Kriegers alone of my original 1500 pts of guardsmen), costing me nearly $1,500 USD of OG Forgeworld Resin, I have my fair share of working with the stuff. I have also purchased cheap knock-off Resin Kriegsmen, about 500 points of them, and finally, I have printed about 800 points of Kriegers, the vast majority of which are resin with a lil PLA in there. :) In my original comment I indirectly explained this as well. Yet, you believe, after me having worked with all 3 of these products, and endorsing them, that you are barking up the wrong tree! I've been 3D printing for over 10 years! So to start off with: 1) If I was to talk durability, these are the stats from my experience: 1) FW Durability: 4.5/10... 2) Cheap Knock-offs: 2.5/10 if from China, 6/10 if you know where to get it from... 3) Resin printed: If you don't know what you're doing, a 3.5/10. If you know what settings, how to slice, and what resin to use, 7/10. 1.5) I use a resin that is slightly flexible and quite durable, it costs about 40% more, but in my 3 years of using the stuff, I've had 1 guardsmen break 1 bayonet on his gun... Would you like me to tally up the number of times my FW Death Riders and Kriegsmen have broken? The number is in the double digits! And I've had them for at most 6 additional months! I have (on the infantry side) a nearly equal amount of both types over a nearly identical amount of time, and have played with both equally! I have already broken every single Death Rider spear tip (the resin part) at least once, and probably have about 18 breaks in my FW official Kriegsmen... Again, my Resin Printed boyos? 1. Count it... 1 Guardsmen! The Death Riders haven't broken a spear tip yet! Crazy! Even the spears they come with, that cheap bendable brass, sucks. I went and spent $3 on ~5 meters of I believe it's called music wire? Cut it to size, and they're 80x better. 2) Modern 3D printers are so easy to use, I have taught literal children how to use them... I teach at a MakerSpace (used to volunteer for one). Literal 10 year olds now know how to make Warhammer models (unironically, I've helped about 11 people get settled into printing models for mostly D&D but those models are generally harder to print than 40k Models). Old printers? Yea, they were difficult. I know, I used them. I remember 3D printers working with Fishing lines. Modern ones? We're basically on the precipice of plug and play, no it's not that difficult, especially if you have a Bambu Labs printer and you can download ready made Printing settings people have made directly to your printer and print with 3 button presses. 3) I do have a house... But I print outside because I don't have a ventilation system, and this resin is especially stinky (and I will never take a risk with health!) so your point is mute! Do it in an apartment that has a balcony! And basically don't print when it's freezing out and you are set! If you're struggling with the settings, look up one of the cheat sheets online about what settings to use for which resin on which printers, I can't link them here, but they're easy to find! 4) Resin printing is for small models, do NOT print large models, they will break! I use PLA for my larger models! Using Resin printing on larger models is begging for you to watch it break! This is something you find out within 3 months of printing! I have 3D printed my Warlord, Warhound, and terrain in PLA, you know how durable the stuff is by comparison? If you get your settings right, I took my Warlord's Failed printed head (structure compromised!), removed the supports and smashed it into the pavement outside, and it dented... That's it! I then tasked a friend with it's destruction, and he slammed it into the pavement 7 additional times before it formed a sizeable crack, and on the 8th it split in half! I took my ForgeWorld Astraeus tank, it tipped over, dropped about idk, 6 inches, and it snapped off in multiple places and formed some cracks... I was able to fix it, because I'm USED to fixing Forgeworld resin... I've dropped my 3D Warhound multiple times from as high as 5 feet, perfectly fine (no pinning required! Just some epoxy and yeet your way to victory!) 5) With the exception of my local *Warhammer* stores, both of which are a 15 and 24 minute drive away, I have about 9 Wargaming stores within 30 minutes of my place, of which I prefer to game at, and all of which don't care about 3D printed models. I brought them into multiple escalation leagues, and a couple tournaments, completely unpainted, and it was a dead giveaway (the resin I printed in is Pink, it was the cheapest color at the time, so people saw it from a literal Kilometer away)... I have run, many times, fully 3D printed armies. It's not even an open secret, I straight up tell people. So... No. Your points (at least for to me) are all completely invalid. Not a single one pertains to me or is relevant to me in the slightest. I disagree with everything you have stated, and this isn't based off of 1 or 2 experiences, but off of years of experience across thousands of dollars of official Warhammer models, and other entire franchises. I also play D&D and other games, so I'm heavily invested in the modeling space, I also used to do commission work. My doors have easily seen upwards of $20,000 worth of product. I alone own about 13,000 points of Official Warhammer models, 9,000 points in Printed Warhammer, and god knows how much D&D models and terrain. (If I was to put a number, I'd say $1,200 of terrain and another ~14,000 points of "40k" (D&D) models) And I reject everything you've said.
I'm almost sick after watching this. With all the money I've spent on any one army alone, I could have bought a 3d printer, curing light, and a ton of high quality resin.. so thank you for being the guy who convinced me to finally get my own 3d printer
It's not all bad. If you want to resell your models (that's a whole other discussion regarding 3D printing and IP) there is still a solid market for genuine GW plastic. The fact is, most people still prefer the expensive GW option.
Personally I prefer to still try and get paid files because 1. usually those are produced with others so you can choose one you really like, 2. you get an assurance on quality, and 3. I think it's a bit better for the hobby as those skilled artists and sculptors do like getting paid.
The biggest things to look out for when resin printing is that you 1. always !!! wear gloves when handling uncured resin; 2. to have a proper ventilation system. Do not! I repeat do not rely just on active coal filter, as these mostly only reduce the smell but not the VOCs and these can - especially long-term - have serious negative health consequences. So either you have a proper ventilation system or you do the printing in a semi-open era like a garage or shed, where you can leave doors and windows open while printing; 3. do not print in a room that you are using for other purpose (e.g. home office), if you do not have a proper ventilation system, and even if you have, do not stay in the room during printing. 4. Buy a suitable respirator and change the filter depending on the frequency of usage. 4. Resin is highly sensitive to temperature with 20 to 30 degree celsius (from my experience with printing over 100 models) being optimal.
I had someone tell me the molds cost a ridiculous mount to fabricate, i believe it. But with how much money they're making.....doesn't excuse the cost.
I just picked up the elegoo saturn 3 ultra from their website on sale for $299 and the mercury x wash and cure station for $130, im so excited to start printing!
I recently paid $60~ AUD for a Chimera, not from GW or an affiliate store, but a company that does A LOT of wargaming and TCG and the price was about Retail anyway. There was, A LOT of problems with it, like, A LOT of flashing and the sides of the cab at the front where woefully larger than they should have been. The rear parts of the roof where it connects to the base at the door at the back also where bent out of alignment so I needed to force that closed and instead of plastic cement because it just wasn't working well enough I had to super glue it down. IF I had a resin printer I could have had it done in a fraction of the time with next to no errors outside of the usually suspects for 3DP. The fact that I can get a knight, a woefully price prohibitive model for like an 8th of the total cost is abysmal. I know why Injection Molding is woefully expensive, but Chaos be Damned do they push people to the Illegality with the effectiveness of 3DP.
Within 3 days of my print adventure I grabbed nitril kitchen gloves and it’s much less expensive . Quick dip of my fingers into the wash station and my glove is still resin and sticky free two years later. Rest of this is pretty solid overall!
I was interested in getting into 40k but I didnt know anything at all about the costs of figure. I dropped a total of 100 USD on supplies, a crappy brush, and 4 little space wolves figure. I thought this hobby might be beginner friendly like DnD but I was so wrong
That 3D printing is much cheaper than buying is normal. Wargaming is a niche hobby and industrial casting molds are very expensive. But the last two rise of costs were not necessary. The price of a necron monolith goes up from 50 € to 120 € in Germany. With this price changes more and more buyers are pressed into 3D printing. Also the price difference between the army's is to much. Astra Militarum players pay almost the same for a troop of 10 figures like SM players for 10 marine models. But the AM players get only 55 pts to 200 pts for the SM player. But the most annoying part is the missing game balance. If they would make lower prices, make a codex more Fluff, painting and gaming Tutorial and give the Stats/Rules for free, 3D printing would stay a niche in this niche hobby. I love my FDM and resin printers and they are great tools for customization. And for props as well. I am collecting 11 war games, but use the printers only for props in Warhammer 40k. For the other games only for customization, bases and terrain. I buy only original 40k minis, if they are in a bundle in my non Warhammer local stores. I accept original prices for the other small company miniatures to support them. But I'm not willing to pay GW bad price strategy for a semi good game.
Having to make stupid purchasing strategies and get inventive when you are just trying to buy and play an army is insane. You have to scrap and save so much just for each squad as a kid and then you will never have a "good" army because by the time you finally get something made the next edition comes out and you start over. At least with 3d printing there is more of an oh well, have to print out a few new things. More and more people are just going to play in non Gw shops that allow 3d printed models.
Where would we get the files from? I noticed there were no links in the description, but I recently got an Ender 3 pro and would love to try these out, did you like them somewhere and I just missed it?
I got a Saturn S this Christmas with no intent to print Warhammer because I simply didn't know it existed. Then I started down the dark path of printing a couple models and really enjoyed the process of printing, gluing, and painting them. I will never give Games Workshop a cent based on what I learned from them so quickly. I already bought STL files from the creators to support them, and printed free models. Sorry not sorry Games workshop. You had a change to sell STL files at reasonable prices ($4.00 - $10) which I would have paid for since it would be easier and consistent to find official pieces. We've seen this happen to companies. You either adapt or die.
I was considering to buy a 3D Printer for a long time and now I bought one today. Thank you for your videos and big help. Now I have to wait for it to arrive.
@@battlebrothersam yeah I have to join your Patreon in the next days, just have to use my lil bros discord. Don’t have one and not really planing to use it.
I recently 3d printed 3500prs of knights all being 1 to 1. Knight lancer cost (in aud) $13, knight crusader/quests $6, armigers about $2 each (4 hel 4 glaves), Porphyrion $32. Currently working on a warlord titan
This is so cool!!! I love this. I was sitting and economically calculating everything always ending like why would I spent thousands on Warhammer just because they changed my codex..I realize what to do now.
Fun video. I always wanted to get into 3D printing but I don't have space in my apartment for a setup or to have proper ventilation. It's funny to me how much GW must hate 3D printing with how cheap it is in comparison to their outrageous pricing. If they would just offer better prices I don't think as many people would be looking for these types of alternatives, they are kind of shooting themselves in the foot with their pricing. I just wish 3D printing was more accessible for people like me that live in a smaller space.
I'm guessing that they have to justify the mould injection process, the moulds for the process, staff, stores etc. I fail to see how those models are worth £100+ though.
The molds aren’t even that expensive. GW does it in-house so they have the money and staff for a CNC to produce their own molds, making them way cheaper than an outside manufacturer. They’re making thousands of percentages margins on some of these
Brilliant remake brother iv not even played my knight army yet. But every time I look at it on my shelf I smile and think screw you GW. People if you really are serious about smashing out 4 or 5 armies get on the patreon it really is worth the couple of quid for the stuff and knowledge you will find on there.
Good plastic is less brittle than resin, so it's good for some smaller details if you plan to play with something on the table, or even bigger things if you might not be the most gentle and they got weaker spots on them. So there is a reason to get plastic, that's casted, and thus more expensive, and it's a valuable service that some companies provide. This said, for larger models like Titans or Knights... the advantages are minimal, and the cost is just... way too different. Oh well if one part breaks, you can literally have ten more titans as back ups for that one. Probably good enough for most people that.... This all said, you can do casted plastic much more cheeply than GW does it, they have a huge margin on their parts for their IP. I got some Forge Fathers/Steel Warriors from Mantic games off Amazon the other month, built them this month. Great little kit. Ten guys, ton of options and extras left over. $23 bucks. That's like a third what GW has for their stuff at around $60 for most kits. Granted they're like a cubic inch, so closer to a $50 gaurd kit than $60 space marine, but you get the point. These had even higher quality than most GW kits I'd gotten, much finer mold lines and better designed points for sprues to connect for easier cleaning. Detail was great, overall loved them, as compared to most of my old Ork kits. So even if going for plastic, and letting a company take a profit margin to live off of, GWs prices are just... ya, completely unnecessary. And if you want to play GW games, you need to be aware of that, or... get a 3d printer and just play with your friends.
Hey man, just bought a 3d printer and really enjoying your videos, joined your discord which has a huge amount of useful info on it so just wanted to say thanks :D
One thing that makes their models so expensive is the way they ship things. They don't do the smart thing and have places in various locations that can be used as a dedicated factory/ shipper. They get everything made in one country over seas then ship it back to the UK. They ship the product from the UK to various stores around the world. Sometimes they even have to go through one country to another which just makes shipping cost more. The amount of money they waste is staggering so of course they get us players to pay for it. It's like taxes stores are supposed to pay on goods in terms of sales tax, but pass it to the customer instead. The amount of useless employees also doesn't help. They desperately need to be rightsized.
Yeah, previously niche companies could get by with shitty inefficient shipping and manufacturing practices, but now it's so easy to just switch to something more reasonably priced that you adapt or die.
Currently finishing up a Rampager/Desecrator proxy. Cost a $10 patreon sub and $20 in resin Tenascious/Anycubic mix). Without printing I'd never be able to even dream about having a Chaos Knight army as the dream would die at the sight of a $150 model. However, now I can have my DG themed Knight army for about $200. So far have an Abominant, 2 Wardogs, and the Rampager/Desecrator. Next on the list is a Tyrant and some Karnivores...not sure which I'll do first.
Playing Devil’s Advocate, GW is doing all the printing and manufacturing. They pay artists to paint models for box art, run events, ship to their own retail sites, pay retail site fees for electricity, water, etc. VS 3D printing where you buy your own equipment and DIY. Now I’m sure majority of the price heightens are due to corporate cash out, but there’s still so much to consider that we probably won’t ever get to know anything about.
think about this, the technology and techniques have made molding and painting cheaper and easier than it was 2 decades ago but they still feel like they can charge at a premium for what exactly? so they can pay their lawyers?
I printed a warlord titan with an FDM printer a couple of years ago, mostly to challenge myself and my printer, took me almost a year to print everything, and half a year to glue and paint everything. Very therapeutic but FDM printed parts are VERY tough on your brushes and ruined quite a few of them.
@@battlebrothersam I should have sanded it, but let's be real, there are way too many details to properly sand it. Also, it's way faster to smooth out bigger parts with liquid green stuff + sanding than to just sand it as it is. I'm now working on a retribution class battleship, that I designed from scratch. It has a lot less details, but still way too much to sand properly.
What key words are you guys using to search for the files? Like "jarhead knight" or "space boxy boie". I feel like there are stls for so many things I'm looking for but don't know the hidden search terms.
Unfortunately for GW the 3d Printer Genie is out of the bottle. Now they are stuck playing Whack A Mole not only with ChinaForge and Comrade Recaster but now with STLs as fast as GW can take them down they pop back up renamed. Though they did finally kill the MEGA site with all the STLs sadly.
I use Sunlu Resin, its really good stuff. Its cheaper than most resins, its strong for not being abs, and it can do details nicely. I can also buy 2k Liters of sunlu for the price I pay for 1 bottle of the stuff I use to get. I highly recommend it.
@@battlebrothersam before switching to sunlu my standard resin was phrozen 4k grey. I don't think Sunlu is as strong as phrozen 4k in a drop test but it's not at all brittle. Once I switched I started printing terrain lok
I don't mind that GW makes money off of models. I mind that they think it's somehow acceptable that a single army should somehow cost more than the 3d printing tools and materials to buy. That's just insane to me and I refuse to buy anything that far detached from it's production costs.
Yeah, with 12k already here and 16k 20k etc on the horizon even some of the 8k printers can be finagled with precise settings to be indistinguishable from a GW mini, they need to start 3d printing their own models if 3d printing is undercutting cost that much (it isn't and GW is just snowjobbing everyone on the costs involved.)
Yeah. I don't mind paying full price for the Black library novels but hundreds of dollars for single models is ridiculous. It's what got me out of 40k until space marine 2 come out.
You should check out Angry Badger Minis, he does a very simple yet effective pose technique for Imperial Knights and did one for a chaos Resin Knight recently. Just a cut at a knee joint and some green stuff.
There's free Questor and Armiger models out there. You can print this for just the resin cost. For legal reason I would advise you to not look up a corpse dragon on the purple site (you know the one, it told Gee Dubs to get stuff last time it threw a hissyfit).
With that paint job, that sure is a Pretty Squire. I'm sure all of the Imperial Warriors will be jealous of that color scheme. You would have to join a cult to find something that nice!
I suppose GW still make money from selling paint. And if they had *any* sense they'd sell their own 3D printable models, perhaps on a subscription model.
So my question becomes how indistinguishable are the models from the real thing? I'm thinking local game shops and tournaments really don't like 3d printing for obvious reasons of cost and lost sales. However as you rightly point out the actually models are ridiculously expensive!
some 8k and 12k stuff you can't see layer lines with the naked eye anymore, so it becomes indistinguishable especially if you use like a really shallow .03 layer height or something, can you see detail down to .03mm?
Great Video! What does need to be taken into consideration is that the 3D printed file is a copy. But a team at GW had to concept it, design it, model it, arrange it on sprue, it then had to be milled into a solid block of metal, which If I recall can take a week on its own. Each injection modelled sprue, probably costs less than a £1 to make, but there is SO much behind the scenes. When you print it you're just taking the last stage :) Also you only factored in resin, how many things would you have to print to get over the cost of your printer. If you print one thing (for example), you have to factor in the whole cost of your printer, washing set up, curing set up. Its (Cost of File) + (Cost of Print) + ((Cost of Printer_Washer_Curing set up)/Number of prints to date)) = Cost of End Result Model More you print cheaper it is! Which is always nice. If you had a spreadsheet of every print you'd done, you could see past prints getting cheaper as the costs spread out over a life time! Would be interested in the cost of your knight now vs when you first started :)
Ah yes that is right about the models getting cheaper and cheaper the more you print, still $300 for 2k pts of knights and the printer equipment is vastly cheaper than the official route. Infact my warhound titan paid for itself and the printer with how much it saved me lol
@@battlebrothersam automatic medium supports, then a lot of heavy supports, and finally supports for supports (strictly for these long supports). And spare 2 foils and protective screens
where do you find all free files, would you share list of your models and where fron or link, would be nice to share a bit good links for the community!!!
Hey, really nice video. Didnt excpect the price difference to be this huge! Would be nice to see how many hours it took roughly to find the models, print them properly and assemble. I'm guessing it's around the same as getting and building the GW kit but could be a bit harder to pull off for someone new to 3d printing. Especially if there are failed prints x) It could add a bit to the "cost" even though it's not easy to measure in dollars. I make 3d art and assets for a living and i gotta say we often overlook how hard it is to design and make these things, even though in the end it costs almost nothing to produce, the initial cost is really high (imagine the price of a full team of artists working for months on a specific design) In a way it's similar to softwares and programs with liscences where it technically doesnt cost anything to make a new copy of the files but making it in the first place is hard. Out of the models i've made none of them really ended up being worth it in terms of revenue and hours spent for instance :[
Thanks brother! Yes even the creators had to put in many hours for these models to create them from scratch, I should've said there were no failures when I printed these models! Thanks for your insight into the 3d modeling side!
The 3d creative community has put paid to that argument. The creators can create awesome stuff without needing the corporate oversight, and make good wages doing it. Just because GW uses a bad and expensive creative process doesn't mean that the people creating these other models are not doing it better, because they are, and I'd bet the ones with similar skills to the paid GW guys make similar money.
Just curious, were do you get these models? I've looked for some Ork models and, I mean yeah I get some models but nothing Games Workshop quality tier of detail.
Great video! I'm just now getting into Warhammer and happen to own a 3d printer, so this is very helpful for me. Could you possibly include a link to the file that you used?
Well I mean its simple why its so expensive. There are people out there who don't have the technical know how to operate a 3D printer (myself included) and GW know these people will pay for the model (Not myself included).
-Prints the Knights legs in Pieces instead of one Piece, digitaly assembled and Posed so it looks cooler, then complains about posing issues -Cures the Pieces before removing Supports and then cries about it Happy days Brother! Really gave me a good chuckle. But those Knights really look good, wanting to Print one but kinda scared because of the size. I'll get there eventually. Nice touch exposing the Greed, always funny to see what you could buy instead with the Money you save from Printing.
Jo, Jo, Jo, you hold me accountable and I thank you for it brother lol I'm glad you got a chuckle LOL I make the best T shaped knights 😂 do it brother print it for your monthly challenge 😁
It's crazy how expensive some models are. My personal turning point were ork meganobs - 65$ for 3 models...3!!! Need I to say that ingame they are cheap fodder unit compared to other terminator units, that you'd better take 10-15 models, so thats 325$ for 450 pts atm. This is just bullocks.
GW premium price gone so far. That is why i am moving to Gundam. i can buy a (protagonist) Gundam Aearial (1/144) for $10. any HG grade Gundam is around $12 ish. it shows How Much regular plastic models cost in production. P.S. Gundam is Not Wargame. So You have 1. never need to build hundreds points of Army. 2. never need to collect/buy multi of same boxes for skirmish. 3. never need to build/paint multi of same models for units. buy, build, paint one of your fav Gundam kit in any faction.
Well injection molding costs big money... my neighbor just did a simple model for the medical industry (no 3D print) and he was into it for $20,000. That's why you have to charge up front. You have to keep the lights on, pay employees, insurance, rent, electricity, heat, taxes, pay for shelf space, discounts for dealers.. the list goes on. But sometimes they get greedy and the executives make way too much.
The cost savings is one thing, but one thing I don't see brought up enough is that 3d Printing is fundamentally a more valuable skill. Learning blender, producing your own minis is 100x as useful as buying a box and putting them together.
@@battlebrothersam Gab, Odysee, Rumble, BitChute and Minds are examples; they’re more free speech than Facebook Twitter and UA-cam. I can email you if needed to explain more
A lot of people are defending GW. I agree they're important for a lot of stuff but my main point is that buying purely from GW is a rich man's life I personally have a mix between the two spending no more than 100 a year on official models but most of my joy comes from painting where I buy a mix of paints from around the range. Honestly I think what I do is a nice middle ground between 3d printer shenanigans and supporting the people who make the game.
The costs of 3d printing - 3d printer, tools, resin, IPA, and if u dont know how to model, and want to pay - model, also time costs of sprued model - design, modeling, manufacturing (injection mold machining, materials, injection machine, labor), packaging (design, labor), marketing, storage. All this ads up, and the least bought models are made in less quantity, so the costs are bigger per unit. But yeah, many companies proved that injected models can be a bit cheaper than those from GW
ey bro, I start in Warhammer with a group of my friends, and I'll buy a Resin printer in a few months, Im interested in the STL you used but I know the dificult to say it for the final part of the video :c Great video I Subscribe you ^^
I use a Flashforge Foto 9.25" 6k the print quality is excellent but you are kind of locked into their own slicer software. That said their 4K 8.9" printer works with Chitubox and is around $200. I also have a Voxelab which is a Flashforge rebrand Proxima 6.0 printer and I have no complaints with any of them. They aren't fancy, but as for churning out good quality prints they do that with no hassle.
Do you happen to know the keywords you used to find the files on Cults? EDIT: Ah, got to the part of the video where you talk about direct links. Nevermind then. Ill start hunting them down myself!
Hey, is it ok if I ask where you got the files for each of the Imperial Knights? I've been trying to find deals on actual GW models but still couldn't justify the price. Can you lend a hand Brother Sam?
What annoys me a lot of the time is the unique characters and special units. Some models are, dare I say, reasonable. Like I really like my Reikenor and I think he has a fair price (34 euros) but something like the knight relictor which is just a stormcast with different clothing to be 27 euros is ridiculous! And this is for AOS which is generally less expensive. For space marines you got things like Primaris Captain that is 31.50 for a little space marine or Primaris Lieutenant with Power Sword that is 27 euros and it's just a normal space marine with a sword.
Games Workshop needs to embrace the next area in miniatures if they want to remain relevant. Release official GW print files and allow them to be used in sanctioned events. There's no reason for anyone to get into the official product at this point due to the cost. Very few people have the kind of disposable income it would take to get involved in this hobby. I've been interested in 40K and GW products for 13 years now, but never bit the bullet because the cost of entry is just so high. Now I can make an 1500+ point army for less than $400? And it keeps getting cheaper the more I print? I'm sold.
I'm just getting into the hobby and I found out that to buy all the wargear needed for a competitive crisis battlesuit squad would cost 1100 dollars in crisis commander kits to get the necessary amount of weapons for the squad. Ofc you can kitbash and do other stuff like that but the fact that GW is too incompetent to provide an alternative really shows how out of touch they are. 3d printing seems like a necessity even if you dont mind to paying for the 40k branded models
I am finding it hard to choose what kind of resin I should be using. I heard of Resinaway and thought ABS resin would be good, but are there any ABS resins that aren't too bad smell wise?
I normally call foul ball on most all pirating and bootlegging, but sheesh their prices are OUTRAGEOUS! It's still sus to bootleg but they're asking for it at that price hike.
Fr like it amazes me how expensive these things cost compared to other hobby models luckily i found a person with a resin printer to buy from cause if not i wont buy warhammer
Instead of disposable nitrile gloves, get a thick reusable one instead. It offers better protection and creates less waste. The disposable ones doesn't offer enough protection, especially when dealing with IPA.
The only reason I haven't went with reusable is they are quite thick and I think that would make it hard to remove the supports, do you have any recommendations?
@@battlebrothersam For larger models, I have no problem removing supports with the thicker gloves. For miniatures, if I really need the extra dexterity, I will swap to the disposable glove on one hand for support removal. I started off using disposable gloves as well, but now that I have the thicker gloves, I rarely use any of the disposable gloves I had left.
I want to do this so bad but I still don't get how to manually do supports. I've been printing PLA for years but just ordered an Anycubic Mono 2 to get started with printing Warhammer.
I only recently got into 3d printing, but I’m always on the hunt to find specific files to print. Right now I just found some Tau looking things on Thingiverse. I heard rumors about models on apps like Telegram, but it seems like a minefield to me.
@@battlebrothersam I don’t know what that is. But I know I’m definitely gonna try and keep looking for models to print. Although my 3d printer uses plastic filament and not resin.
@@goliath1179it’s the artists display name, you can just google them. They’ve got a slightly distinct vibe but are among the best of the non 1:1 models
“It’s expensive because we gotta keep the local stores open, pay the designers and artists, and pay off the corporate overlords mostly, but it’s irrelevant that our supreme leaders need for another Bugatti” - a totally real employee of the imperium
😂😂 You had me at the start
Fun fact, industrial assembly in a country that doesn't use slave labour is expensive.
Warhammer costs money because it isn't made by fume choked serfs in China, but people being paid enough money to actually survive in the UK.
If you want to talk about markups, ho complain about phones.
Maybe local stores could start 3d printing....
@@adddad9779 because people want to pay for pre printed minis with layer lines instead of high quality styrene minis
@@TheSonOfRyan you also forgot the part how gw want to please shareholders every year and keep up their massive crowds salaries
As far as I understand:
The cost of the actual plastic is actually pennies on the dollar. The majority of the cost for models are in design and creating injection molds. Artists, Designers, and Engineers need to be paid. The injection molds also needs to be paid for (and apparently each one can cost upwards of $200,000 for high quality industrial molds meant for constant repeated use). Then there's supply and logistics. These are made in the UK and then shipped all over the world. I heard they did have some factories in China for stuff like terrain but last I heard they were shuttering them due to issues.
Should the cost be as high as they are? Probably not. However, doing a direct cost comparison of materials and equipment is cutting out a lot of other considerations.
For me, personally, I much prefer my models be in plastic. Until plastic printers are as good as resin printers, I'll probably end up paying that premium. The other issue is that GW doesn't have great competition. It's not that they lack competition but GW is the big fish and only they can offer the things I want. For the most part, GW plastic is good quality, the sculpts are well done, and it's not made with questionable labor.
I think it's great that 3D Printing Hobbyists can create an entire army for only a fraction of the price of buying from GW. Please continue having fun with the hobby in whatever capacity you can and want to. Also, please continue to let me bum Krieger heads for my Guard army.
Well said hobby how you like brother
what i do like is gw stores permit 3d prints if the main body is plastic, hell ive gotten away with full printed terminators without anyone even batting an eye, maybe in a few years the models will get good enough to rival the quality of plastic
"Should the costs be as high as they are, probably not" that's the issue. I 100% agree with the logistical side of pricing being an issue, but they are certainly pricing WAY higher than needed.
Companies like Archon studios make high quality injected plastic miniatures and terrain, for games like Conquest and made some minies for creators like Black Magic Craft.
They make their own molds, from cnc machined aluminium. They wear down over time due to the diesel effect. Yet a box of 3 minies for Conquest comparable to the size of a contemptor dreadnought can be bought for 40$. And that's counting paying designers for the molds, cnc engineers, being made in Poland, paying to have the molds replaced periodically and for the plastic, plus a markup for being sold by Parabellum.
So while the cost of designing and manufacturing is still a factor, you can get the same amount of plastic 3 times cheaper. 6 times even if you buy from some cheap resellers that got it on sales.
Once a mold is created, and it costs about $10,000 total, up to 60,000 prints can be made from it before it starts to deteriorate. At $5 per sprue retail you've got $290,000 return. How many sprues in a GW kit for how much? If you want a tour of a figure manufacturing company check out Goobertown hobbies video where he visits one, eye opening on how it works and the costs involved. The only ones losing money are consumers who buy GW products. The Landraider kit alone would have paid for all development, production, distribution for itself seconds after release.
I strongly recommend a wash cure station. Makes the experience so much more pleasant and easy. Great video and love the knights
A lot of people I know say that they break easily. I would recommend a cure box but a tub with a lid is what most my friends use (even when they have wash stations they just stopped using them, haha).
Thanks brother Carl! Always great to see you in the comments 😁 any recommendations?
@@Mockthenerd Washing stations are also a hell to clean. Resin sticks to the walls of the plastic containers. I use old ice cream tubs (one for 1st dirty isopropanol bath, one for rinsing water, and a 2d finishing isopropanol bath). I use old toothbrushes on the first bath, and put the second bath tub hermetically closed floating in water in the ultrasonic cleaner for 3mn. It's an expensive setup I know but the models get out of the bath squeaky clean, with no uncured residues and with the best definition possible.
@@battlebrothersam I have the elegoo one that was bundled with the mars and its pretty breezy to clean and use. Was about $100 on sale so I bought it from the start. Can't compare to not having it.
For water washable resin I use the Elegoo Mercury (the non-plus one) for curing and wash the models with a spray bottle and a smallish Ikea 365+ tub with a sealed lid.
Once enough water has collected in the tub, I pre-rinse the models and then spray them down. (before that I just spray them down)
Small parts I let air dry and for bigger parts I use a cheap blowdryer.
It's not perfect, but since I paint everything I make it doesn't have to be absolutely 100%.
Once the tub is halfway filled, I siphon off about a quarter of the liquid into empty soda bottles using a funnel so the contaminated water can be safely disposed of later.
Just have to be careful when pouring into the funnel in order to avoid spills.
Awesome video! Side note, ALWAYS remove supports before curing. Wash in IPA or other solvent and then a hot water bath will soften the supports and make them easy to remove. this step changed my resin experience after years of printing without it!
I normally do I just didn't notice the supports on the back until I started to build it lol 😂😂😂
I'm a little late, but how hot are we talking for this hot water bath? out of the kettle? or just lukewarm?
@@MrJelloid hot tap water only! just keep in mind that the parts will bend if you leave them in for too long.
My usual process once a print is done is as follows:
1) Pull the whole build plate and place in the wash n Cure station. I do a 2-4 minute cycle depending on the detail of the minis and if they are large hollow pieces or not.
2)While the cure station is running, fill up a pickle keeper container (w/internal strainer basket) with hot tap water and prep my cleaning area with fresh paper towels.
3)Once the cleaning cycle is done, pull the build plate and scrape off the figures, adding them into the hot water as I go. I then clean the build plate and reset everything for the next print. By that time, the hot water has had a chance to loosen up the supports and I'll carefully remove everything, making sure to dunk and drain and hollow models several more times.
4)using a hobby knife, clippers, and tweezers, I remove the remaining micro supports, any internal supports and clean up and remnants before spraying some IPA on the model and using a soft toothbrush to hit the detailed areas to make sure it's a crisp as possible. This step also helps dry the print before curing.
5)Cure externally and internally for hollowed prints.
DONE!
@@MrJelloidA little late aswell, absolutely not boiling that'll make it fall apart. Id say max 60°C?
I ain't wasting my beer to wash models 🙄
This is the 3d printing models video ive been waiting for extremely informative and helpful overall thank you for shedding alot of light on a potential future venture
Thanks brother!
My brother wasn’t big into the hobby and didn’t want to spend anything really on getting into it, fortunately I had my printer and so now he has a full 2k point army (and extra) to use if he ever feels like playing
I will say I love building plastic models and resin doesn’t quite compare in that regard, but for everything else resin all the way
It's handy to have for those situations!
I find that my resin containment and cleaning supplies are where a lot of my money ended up going. I have a small grow tent hooked up to a fan that vents outside that probably added another hundred or so. 3d printing also has a more restrictive time commitment than off the sprue.
Still a LOT cheaper than GW, but the startup cost can be quite a bit.
Yes ipa gloves and resin are my biggest recurring costs but I suppose its to be expected and when I say biggest it's still cheaper than buying the boxes of sprues lol
But for literally LESS than a single 2.5k army you can get a 3d printer and a wash and cure station and all the supplies and print 3-5 armies and then start doing commissions for your friends as needed. Just a bit more value... Only way GW can compete is if they drop the cost per army down to under $200.
Instant subscription. I've been trying to get into the hobby, and price has been prohibitive for years. You saved me time, money, and gave me access to this game that I've been fascinated.
Where did you get the models he used?
I love 40k, but playing the tabletop has always been a far, FAAAR dream for me. Living in Brazil makes things almost impossible for non-millionaire Warhammer fans, bc GW doesn't even sell here, so you HAVE to import the models on top of paying WAY TOO MUCH for them in the first place.
But now its different, the stuff you showed here makes collecting 40k cheaper by AN ENTIRE ORDER OF MAGNITUDE, and I might just do it in the future.
Significantly cheaper especially for your case brother!
Print on my Brazilian friend!
Irmão se encontrar os modelo 3D fala aí kkkkkk
Great video Sam!
Just a note, you don't have to use isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for rinsing/cleaning standard resin - you can use methylated spirits (also known as "denatured alcohol") too. This can be handy as certainly where I'm from methylated spirits is considerably cheaper and more widely available than IPA :) Do the cost calculations where you are of course!
Thanks brother! I think I looked at it before, is that like white spirits? Ipa is actually a pain for me to get in Northern Ireland lol I had to find a local supplier but I think when I looked into alternatives I had seen other spirits listed, is there a risk of the resin melting in it?
@@battlebrothersam White spirits are a petroleum-based solvent and methylated spirits are an alcohol-based solvent. So they're not really the same thing. That's why the methylated sprits work on resin (alcohol based). In NZ I just buy it from our DIY stores, I see online that B&Q sells it in the UK for about £9 per L. So perhaps try your local DIY or home decorating stores? Bear in mind though, that I know internationally that some countries seem to have abundant cheap isopropyl alcohol available so methylated spirits aren't for everyone. Use whatever is cheaper! :)
@@ajsl I just Googled it which I should've done before replying lol I know what you mean now! Thanks for the tip brother I might try it when my ipa supply runs out
@@battlebrothersam You can use acetone to clean resin. Around here you can get about 4L of the stuff for $20 usd
@@antongunther3977 True. However not all resin's are equal. And I have experienced more failed prints with the cheap stuff.
Fortunately the good stuff is NOT crazy expensive.
My knight that i printed is my favorite model to show people 3d printing for warhammer.
I wish I had printed mine sooner I will admit that I was intimidated by the size of the prints and the painting needed but they are a joy to paint
stl sauce?
@@IronLion219source
pro tip to new 3d printers out there. Resin quality matters, you will get a nicer experience with the quality stuff. It shouldn't price you out of the hobby though!
The standard anycubic resin you can get for about $25 bucks per L is cheap, but smells super bad. My house hold is super sensitive to the smell of it as well.
The phrozen 4k resin I've been using recently has only given me 2 print failures over 3 bottles and has almost no smell ($30/L).
Ah I'm glad I read this I was eyeing up 2kg of anycubic for £40 but the smell will be a issue with the rest of my house lol
Had the same problem :) my solution was Primacreator Value Water Washable resin it have little to no smell and can be clened with warm water a a little soap :)
I've been using sunlu abs like for quite a bit now, about $22 a liter and really, really low odor. Only problem is it's kind of thick, So you will want to let your prints hang for any excess to drop off, else you will burn through IPA. Might look into water washable i'm being honest.
@@TheGoatPC water washable isn't great. It doesn't really clean that well and most people have a rough time getting it to work. To save on IPA I would adopt a 2-3 step washing procedure. (for 2 step you just do a dirty and clean wash, though I highly recommend the 3 step)
1. Have a "dirty wash" for fresh prints. This is basically old IPA that is there to get the initial resin off the print.
2. A intermediate wash. This wash is a bit cleaner than the dirty wash (IE it isn't as saturated with resin). It removes more of the resin that the dirty wash left behind.
3. Clean wash. This is the last step and cleans your prints of any remaining residue.
When the dirty wash is no longer doing anything you can put the container in the sun and treat it as your recycling batch to cure the resin trapped within it. You than "promote" the intermediate wash to a dirty wash and the clean wash to the new intermediate wash. You than pour recycled/new IPA to become your new clean wash.
@@antongunther3977 From what i've seen in my 3d printing groups, that is not correct. Water washable seems to pick up the details just fine while washing with no issues. I am aware of the various "wash buckets", it's still more expensive then using water..
What I've been recently doing is printing Death Korps of Krieg.
They don't have as much detail as the resin casted infantry, BUT that's mostly the model's fault. The creator I print models from releases cleaner models that are easily printed and I absolutely love them, more so than the Forgeworld equivalent hilariously enough.
If you want to see some cost savings there, the cost of print 10 kriegsman is ~$3 USD. The cost to buy the same from FW? $79 or $60 in plastic from GW (granted the plastic kit is absolutely amazing and comes with extra bits), and that is NOT including your local state taxes and the such, or the time for delivery from FW.
Or I could print ~200 Kriegsman for the same price o.o
I don't know man. 60 points of Kriegers for ~$86 after my local tax, or 70 points of Veteran Guardsmen (Grenadiers) from GW for ~$65 USD or 1200 points for ~$62 USD?
Anybody who wants to argue the cost of a "3D printer not being calculated meh" into a horde army such as Guardsman can just shush themselves, because my previous 1500 points of Guardsmen cost me nearly $1,800 USD to assemble. I shudder to think how much I could create with Resin nowadays.
I have a lot of kreig printed off your right they are possibly the single army that you can't argue with price wise from 3d printed vs official models with the savings
Even a mechanised guard army is super expensive, I priced it out 12 years ago at $800 just for the vehicles and these days it's probably double that. I'd bet tau is similar.
sure cool, but you now have an army of 200 kriegsmen who if dropped instantly break and shatter, and who you ideally should spend at minimum 30 minutes painting.
The issue for resin is the fact that it breaks and the amount of time, setup and space/practise and patience you need to have for it, and what tends to be an issue for me when collecting an army is not at all the price, but the fact it takes forever to actually paint. even for simple armies like knights, and thats with me owning an airbrush.
So adding even more time to the process, that is getting a printer, learning to use it, getting it to a reliable enough printing state where you dont misprint half the time, have a proper workspace and workflow, and have space for it without potentially harming yourself (so dedicated shed/venting setup)
If you can do all that you probably live in a house, and not an apartment.
i have printed an acastus knight (1.5 kg worth of resin for that one) and taunar, alongside tons of other things, but they are too fragile, and too much work and too heavy, it just makes you spend time making models you will never paint.
most importantly, you cant play with an unpainted printed army, unless you have a friend who wants to, your LGS is not gonna let you play a purely printed army.
@@christophersteen1873 mech guard is almost doable for 600 usd
@@GlowingSpamraam
So here's the funny part, and I mean complete offense, I actually know what I'm talking about. :)
As somebody who has paid MSRP from the Citadel Cafe, for 1200 points (of Kriegers alone of my original 1500 pts of guardsmen), costing me nearly $1,500 USD of OG Forgeworld Resin, I have my fair share of working with the stuff. I have also purchased cheap knock-off Resin Kriegsmen, about 500 points of them, and finally, I have printed about 800 points of Kriegers, the vast majority of which are resin with a lil PLA in there. :)
In my original comment I indirectly explained this as well. Yet, you believe, after me having worked with all 3 of these products, and endorsing them, that you are barking up the wrong tree! I've been 3D printing for over 10 years!
So to start off with:
1) If I was to talk durability, these are the stats from my experience: 1) FW Durability: 4.5/10... 2) Cheap Knock-offs: 2.5/10 if from China, 6/10 if you know where to get it from... 3) Resin printed: If you don't know what you're doing, a 3.5/10. If you know what settings, how to slice, and what resin to use, 7/10.
1.5) I use a resin that is slightly flexible and quite durable, it costs about 40% more, but in my 3 years of using the stuff, I've had 1 guardsmen break 1 bayonet on his gun... Would you like me to tally up the number of times my FW Death Riders and Kriegsmen have broken? The number is in the double digits! And I've had them for at most 6 additional months! I have (on the infantry side) a nearly equal amount of both types over a nearly identical amount of time, and have played with both equally!
I have already broken every single Death Rider spear tip (the resin part) at least once, and probably have about 18 breaks in my FW official Kriegsmen... Again, my Resin Printed boyos? 1. Count it... 1 Guardsmen! The Death Riders haven't broken a spear tip yet! Crazy! Even the spears they come with, that cheap bendable brass, sucks. I went and spent $3 on ~5 meters of I believe it's called music wire? Cut it to size, and they're 80x better.
2) Modern 3D printers are so easy to use, I have taught literal children how to use them... I teach at a MakerSpace (used to volunteer for one). Literal 10 year olds now know how to make Warhammer models (unironically, I've helped about 11 people get settled into printing models for mostly D&D but those models are generally harder to print than 40k Models). Old printers? Yea, they were difficult. I know, I used them. I remember 3D printers working with Fishing lines. Modern ones? We're basically on the precipice of plug and play, no it's not that difficult, especially if you have a Bambu Labs printer and you can download ready made Printing settings people have made directly to your printer and print with 3 button presses.
3) I do have a house... But I print outside because I don't have a ventilation system, and this resin is especially stinky (and I will never take a risk with health!) so your point is mute! Do it in an apartment that has a balcony! And basically don't print when it's freezing out and you are set! If you're struggling with the settings, look up one of the cheat sheets online about what settings to use for which resin on which printers, I can't link them here, but they're easy to find!
4) Resin printing is for small models, do NOT print large models, they will break! I use PLA for my larger models! Using Resin printing on larger models is begging for you to watch it break! This is something you find out within 3 months of printing! I have 3D printed my Warlord, Warhound, and terrain in PLA, you know how durable the stuff is by comparison? If you get your settings right, I took my Warlord's Failed printed head (structure compromised!), removed the supports and smashed it into the pavement outside, and it dented... That's it! I then tasked a friend with it's destruction, and he slammed it into the pavement 7 additional times before it formed a sizeable crack, and on the 8th it split in half! I took my ForgeWorld Astraeus tank, it tipped over, dropped about idk, 6 inches, and it snapped off in multiple places and formed some cracks... I was able to fix it, because I'm USED to fixing Forgeworld resin... I've dropped my 3D Warhound multiple times from as high as 5 feet, perfectly fine (no pinning required! Just some epoxy and yeet your way to victory!)
5) With the exception of my local *Warhammer* stores, both of which are a 15 and 24 minute drive away, I have about 9 Wargaming stores within 30 minutes of my place, of which I prefer to game at, and all of which don't care about 3D printed models. I brought them into multiple escalation leagues, and a couple tournaments, completely unpainted, and it was a dead giveaway (the resin I printed in is Pink, it was the cheapest color at the time, so people saw it from a literal Kilometer away)... I have run, many times, fully 3D printed armies. It's not even an open secret, I straight up tell people.
So... No. Your points (at least for to me) are all completely invalid. Not a single one pertains to me or is relevant to me in the slightest. I disagree with everything you have stated, and this isn't based off of 1 or 2 experiences, but off of years of experience across thousands of dollars of official Warhammer models, and other entire franchises. I also play D&D and other games, so I'm heavily invested in the modeling space, I also used to do commission work. My doors have easily seen upwards of $20,000 worth of product. I alone own about 13,000 points of Official Warhammer models, 9,000 points in Printed Warhammer, and god knows how much D&D models and terrain. (If I was to put a number, I'd say $1,200 of terrain and another ~14,000 points of "40k" (D&D) models)
And I reject everything you've said.
I'm almost sick after watching this. With all the money I've spent on any one army alone, I could have bought a 3d printer, curing light, and a ton of high quality resin.. so thank you for being the guy who convinced me to finally get my own 3d printer
It's not all bad. If you want to resell your models (that's a whole other discussion regarding 3D printing and IP) there is still a solid market for genuine GW plastic. The fact is, most people still prefer the expensive GW option.
Personally I prefer to still try and get paid files because 1. usually those are produced with others so you can choose one you really like, 2. you get an assurance on quality, and 3. I think it's a bit better for the hobby as those skilled artists and sculptors do like getting paid.
The biggest things to look out for when resin printing is that you 1. always !!! wear gloves when handling uncured resin; 2. to have a proper ventilation system. Do not! I repeat do not rely just on active coal filter, as these mostly only reduce the smell but not the VOCs and these can - especially long-term - have serious negative health consequences. So either you have a proper ventilation system or you do the printing in a semi-open era like a garage or shed, where you can leave doors and windows open while printing; 3. do not print in a room that you are using for other purpose (e.g. home office), if you do not have a proper ventilation system, and even if you have, do not stay in the room during printing. 4. Buy a suitable respirator and change the filter depending on the frequency of usage. 4. Resin is highly sensitive to temperature with 20 to 30 degree celsius (from my experience with printing over 100 models) being optimal.
I had someone tell me the molds cost a ridiculous mount to fabricate, i believe it. But with how much money they're making.....doesn't excuse the cost.
Molds are kinda pricey for sure, but GW is shamelessly pricegouging on top of that
Molds are ~180,000£ each, but GW's gains should well cover that...
I just picked up the elegoo saturn 3 ultra from their website on sale for $299 and the mercury x wash and cure station for $130, im so excited to start printing!
There was an account that made a 3D Warlord titan that got taken down sadly,
The model had insane detail
I think I know the one your talking about! It was a shame it had to be taken down
I recently paid $60~ AUD for a Chimera, not from GW or an affiliate store, but a company that does A LOT of wargaming and TCG and the price was about Retail anyway.
There was, A LOT of problems with it, like, A LOT of flashing and the sides of the cab at the front where woefully larger than they should have been. The rear parts of the roof where it connects to the base at the door at the back also where bent out of alignment so I needed to force that closed and instead of plastic cement because it just wasn't working well enough I had to super glue it down.
IF I had a resin printer I could have had it done in a fraction of the time with next to no errors outside of the usually suspects for 3DP.
The fact that I can get a knight, a woefully price prohibitive model for like an 8th of the total cost is abysmal. I know why Injection Molding is woefully expensive, but Chaos be Damned do they push people to the Illegality with the effectiveness of 3DP.
I don't know how it's even possible to afford 40k officially in Oz without 3d printing!
Within 3 days of my print adventure I grabbed nitril kitchen gloves and it’s much less expensive . Quick dip of my fingers into the wash station and my glove is still resin and sticky free two years later. Rest of this is pretty solid overall!
I was interested in getting into 40k but I didnt know anything at all about the costs of figure. I dropped a total of 100 USD on supplies, a crappy brush, and 4 little space wolves figure. I thought this hobby might be beginner friendly like DnD but I was so wrong
That is terrible how do they expect new people to start?
Man, love the channel...yeah if you play 40k...3d printing is a must now.
Thanks brother
That 3D printing is much cheaper than buying is normal. Wargaming is a niche hobby and industrial casting molds are very expensive. But the last two rise of costs were not necessary. The price of a necron monolith goes up from 50 € to 120 € in Germany. With this price changes more and more buyers are pressed into 3D printing. Also the price difference between the army's is to much. Astra Militarum players pay almost the same for a troop of 10 figures like SM players for 10 marine models. But the AM players get only 55 pts to 200 pts for the SM player. But the most annoying part is the missing game balance. If they would make lower prices, make a codex more Fluff, painting and gaming Tutorial and give the Stats/Rules for free, 3D printing would stay a niche in this niche hobby. I love my FDM and resin printers and they are great tools for customization. And for props as well. I am collecting 11 war games, but use the printers only for props in Warhammer 40k. For the other games only for customization, bases and terrain. I buy only original 40k minis, if they are in a bundle in my non Warhammer local stores. I accept original prices for the other small company miniatures to support them. But I'm not willing to pay GW bad price strategy for a semi good game.
The game balance is very poor from a multi billion dollar company.
Having to make stupid purchasing strategies and get inventive when you are just trying to buy and play an army is insane. You have to scrap and save so much just for each squad as a kid and then you will never have a "good" army because by the time you finally get something made the next edition comes out and you start over. At least with 3d printing there is more of an oh well, have to print out a few new things. More and more people are just going to play in non Gw shops that allow 3d printed models.
Where would we get the files from? I noticed there were no links in the description, but I recently got an Ender 3 pro and would love to try these out, did you like them somewhere and I just missed it?
There is no link to stop gw deleting it
I have the files for that Knight. I dont even play 40k and I'm just going to print and paint one for fun.
Dang, any chance we could get in contact for the models ?
could you perhaps point me in the direction of where you got them?
I got a Saturn S this Christmas with no intent to print Warhammer because I simply didn't know it existed. Then I started down the dark path of printing a couple models and really enjoyed the process of printing, gluing, and painting them. I will never give Games Workshop a cent based on what I learned from them so quickly. I already bought STL files from the creators to support them, and printed free models. Sorry not sorry Games workshop. You had a change to sell STL files at reasonable prices ($4.00 - $10) which I would have paid for since it would be easier and consistent to find official pieces. We've seen this happen to companies. You either adapt or die.
???? DONDE ?
I was considering to buy a 3D Printer for a long time and now I bought one today. Thank you for your videos and big help. Now I have to wait for it to arrive.
That's great to hear brother! now comes the patient wait lol get your stl files downloaded and ready for the day :D
@@battlebrothersam yeah I have to join your Patreon in the next days, just have to use my lil bros discord. Don’t have one and not really planing to use it.
I recently 3d printed 3500prs of knights all being 1 to 1. Knight lancer cost (in aud) $13, knight crusader/quests $6, armigers about $2 each (4 hel 4 glaves), Porphyrion $32. Currently working on a warlord titan
This is so cool!!! I love this. I was sitting and economically calculating everything always ending like why would I spent thousands on Warhammer just because they changed my codex..I realize what to do now.
Fun video. I always wanted to get into 3D printing but I don't have space in my apartment for a setup or to have proper ventilation. It's funny to me how much GW must hate 3D printing with how cheap it is in comparison to their outrageous pricing. If they would just offer better prices I don't think as many people would be looking for these types of alternatives, they are kind of shooting themselves in the foot with their pricing. I just wish 3D printing was more accessible for people like me that live in a smaller space.
I'm guessing that they have to justify the mould injection process, the moulds for the process, staff, stores etc.
I fail to see how those models are worth £100+ though.
It's really hard to justify it being over £100 but I'm sure someone will come along with a fully detailed report 😂😂
The molds aren’t even that expensive. GW does it in-house so they have the money and staff for a CNC to produce their own molds, making them way cheaper than an outside manufacturer. They’re making thousands of percentages margins on some of these
This is much easier explained then you last video which I watched about Space Marine. But I need to learn the black magic arts of 3d printing.
Brilliant remake brother iv not even played my knight army yet. But every time I look at it on my shelf I smile and think screw you GW.
People if you really are serious about smashing out 4 or 5 armies get on the patreon it really is worth the couple of quid for the stuff and knowledge you will find on there.
Thanks brother Chris! Your knights are painted silky smooth 😍
Good plastic is less brittle than resin, so it's good for some smaller details if you plan to play with something on the table, or even bigger things if you might not be the most gentle and they got weaker spots on them. So there is a reason to get plastic, that's casted, and thus more expensive, and it's a valuable service that some companies provide. This said, for larger models like Titans or Knights... the advantages are minimal, and the cost is just... way too different. Oh well if one part breaks, you can literally have ten more titans as back ups for that one. Probably good enough for most people that....
This all said, you can do casted plastic much more cheeply than GW does it, they have a huge margin on their parts for their IP. I got some Forge Fathers/Steel Warriors from Mantic games off Amazon the other month, built them this month. Great little kit. Ten guys, ton of options and extras left over. $23 bucks. That's like a third what GW has for their stuff at around $60 for most kits. Granted they're like a cubic inch, so closer to a $50 gaurd kit than $60 space marine, but you get the point. These had even higher quality than most GW kits I'd gotten, much finer mold lines and better designed points for sprues to connect for easier cleaning. Detail was great, overall loved them, as compared to most of my old Ork kits. So even if going for plastic, and letting a company take a profit margin to live off of, GWs prices are just... ya, completely unnecessary. And if you want to play GW games, you need to be aware of that, or... get a 3d printer and just play with your friends.
Hey man, just bought a 3d printer and really enjoying your videos, joined your discord which has a huge amount of useful info on it so just wanted to say thanks :D
One thing that makes their models so expensive is the way they ship things. They don't do the smart thing and have places in various locations that can be used as a dedicated factory/ shipper. They get everything made in one country over seas then ship it back to the UK. They ship the product from the UK to various stores around the world. Sometimes they even have to go through one country to another which just makes shipping cost more. The amount of money they waste is staggering so of course they get us players to pay for it. It's like taxes stores are supposed to pay on goods in terms of sales tax, but pass it to the customer instead.
The amount of useless employees also doesn't help. They desperately need to be rightsized.
Australia is a prime example of this
Yeah, previously niche companies could get by with shitty inefficient shipping and manufacturing practices, but now it's so easy to just switch to something more reasonably priced that you adapt or die.
Really great video mate it was very useful. Might look into it with Black Friday coming up.
Glad it helped
Currently finishing up a Rampager/Desecrator proxy. Cost a $10 patreon sub and $20 in resin Tenascious/Anycubic mix).
Without printing I'd never be able to even dream about having a Chaos Knight army as the dream would die at the sight of a $150 model. However, now I can have my DG themed Knight army for about $200.
So far have an Abominant, 2 Wardogs, and the Rampager/Desecrator. Next on the list is a Tyrant and some Karnivores...not sure which I'll do first.
which patreon? :)
Excellent brother demon! And also tenacious mix? 🤤 Your daemon engines will never fail 😂😂
@@pascalziegler4112 For the new one look up Wildmesh.
Cyberforge, Dorkfactory, & Ghamak have also made some of the proxies I've done.
@@battlebrothersam Yup...have accidentally dropped it's chainsaw a couple times now (whoops) and so far no breaks!!!! *knock on wood*
Playing Devil’s Advocate, GW is doing all the printing and manufacturing. They pay artists to paint models for box art, run events, ship to their own retail sites, pay retail site fees for electricity, water, etc. VS 3D printing where you buy your own equipment and DIY.
Now I’m sure majority of the price heightens are due to corporate cash out, but there’s still so much to consider that we probably won’t ever get to know anything about.
If you can’t already tell this is just me rationalizing the money I’ve put into the hobby haha
think about this, the technology and techniques have made molding and painting cheaper and easier than it was 2 decades ago but they still feel like they can charge at a premium for what exactly? so they can pay their lawyers?
I printed a warlord titan with an FDM printer a couple of years ago, mostly to challenge myself and my printer, took me almost a year to print everything, and half a year to glue and paint everything. Very therapeutic but FDM printed parts are VERY tough on your brushes and ruined quite a few of them.
Did you have to sand it down? I want to try fdm but something keeps stopping me
@@battlebrothersam I should have sanded it, but let's be real, there are way too many details to properly sand it. Also, it's way faster to smooth out bigger parts with liquid green stuff + sanding than to just sand it as it is.
I'm now working on a retribution class battleship, that I designed from scratch. It has a lot less details, but still way too much to sand properly.
What key words are you guys using to search for the files? Like "jarhead knight" or "space boxy boie". I feel like there are stls for so many things I'm looking for but don't know the hidden search terms.
codewalrus
Unfortunately for GW the 3d Printer Genie is out of the bottle. Now they are stuck playing Whack A Mole not only with ChinaForge and Comrade Recaster but now with STLs as fast as GW can take them down they pop back up renamed. Though they did finally kill the MEGA site with all the STLs sadly.
Plenty of people downloaded it things don't disappear forever on the Internet
They can't touch anything on telegram so they can stuff it.
Awesome video water wasable resin is also a great option have used it to great effect for some time now :)
Thanks brother! I used water washable for a while it was handy but I found it a bit brittle although I could be heavy handed with my models lol
awesome video thank you for sharing
I use Sunlu Resin, its really good stuff. Its cheaper than most resins, its strong for not being abs, and it can do details nicely. I can also buy 2k Liters of sunlu for the price I pay for 1 bottle of the stuff I use to get. I highly recommend it.
Have you used other resins like elegoo abs like? I seen the deal on sunlu while recording if it's as good as you say then Ill get it
@@battlebrothersam before switching to sunlu my standard resin was phrozen 4k grey. I don't think Sunlu is as strong as phrozen 4k in a drop test but it's not at all brittle. Once I switched I started printing terrain lok
@@lordnovas yeah I'm gonna try it it's cheap
I don't mind that GW makes money off of models. I mind that they think it's somehow acceptable that a single army should somehow cost more than the 3d printing tools and materials to buy. That's just insane to me and I refuse to buy anything that far detached from it's production costs.
Yeah, with 12k already here and 16k 20k etc on the horizon even some of the 8k printers can be finagled with precise settings to be indistinguishable from a GW mini, they need to start 3d printing their own models if 3d printing is undercutting cost that much (it isn't and GW is just snowjobbing everyone on the costs involved.)
Yeah. I don't mind paying full price for the Black library novels but hundreds of dollars for single models is ridiculous. It's what got me out of 40k until space marine 2 come out.
You should check out Angry Badger Minis, he does a very simple yet effective pose technique for Imperial Knights and did one for a chaos Resin Knight recently. Just a cut at a knee joint and some green stuff.
I'll give it a watch thanks for the tip!
There's free Questor and Armiger models out there.
You can print this for just the resin cost.
For legal reason I would advise you to not look up a corpse dragon on the purple site (you know the one, it told Gee Dubs to get stuff last time it threw a hissyfit).
With that paint job, that sure is a Pretty Squire. I'm sure all of the Imperial Warriors will be jealous of that color scheme. You would have to join a cult to find something that nice!
Thank you for your kind words brother!
I suppose GW still make money from selling paint. And if they had *any* sense they'd sell their own 3D printable models, perhaps on a subscription model.
So my question becomes how indistinguishable are the models from the real thing? I'm thinking local game shops and tournaments really don't like 3d printing for obvious reasons of cost and lost sales. However as you rightly point out the actually models are ridiculously expensive!
some 8k and 12k stuff you can't see layer lines with the naked eye anymore, so it becomes indistinguishable especially if you use like a really shallow .03 layer height or something, can you see detail down to .03mm?
Great Video!
What does need to be taken into consideration is that the 3D printed file is a copy.
But a team at GW had to concept it, design it, model it, arrange it on sprue, it then had to be milled into a solid block of metal, which If I recall can take a week on its own.
Each injection modelled sprue, probably costs less than a £1 to make,
but there is SO much behind the scenes.
When you print it you're just taking the last stage :)
Also you only factored in resin, how many things would you have to print to get over the cost of your printer.
If you print one thing (for example), you have to factor in the whole cost of your printer, washing set up, curing set up.
Its
(Cost of File) + (Cost of Print) + ((Cost of Printer_Washer_Curing set up)/Number of prints to date)) = Cost of End Result Model
More you print cheaper it is! Which is always nice.
If you had a spreadsheet of every print you'd done, you could see past prints getting cheaper as the costs spread out over a life time!
Would be interested in the cost of your knight now vs when you first started :)
Ah yes that is right about the models getting cheaper and cheaper the more you print, still $300 for 2k pts of knights and the printer equipment is vastly cheaper than the official route.
Infact my warhound titan paid for itself and the printer with how much it saved me lol
3:33 Ah. Smart man. Those are the good quality ethanol-resistant nitrile gloves. I won't use anything less - mostly because I get them for free.
ooo warlord titan, i just finished mine and getting ready to paint. i printed it on photo mono 4k and it took him 3 months
😮 Did you support it all yourself? Any tips brother?
@@battlebrothersam automatic medium supports, then a lot of heavy supports, and finally supports for supports (strictly for these long supports). And spare 2 foils and protective screens
where do you find all free files, would you share list of your models and where fron or link, would be nice to share a bit good links for the community!!!
Great video brother! Is this now gonna be a series with a video for each army? :3
It could be brother! I had great fun doing this one
Hey, really nice video. Didnt excpect the price difference to be this huge! Would be nice to see how many hours it took roughly to find the models, print them properly and assemble. I'm guessing it's around the same as getting and building the GW kit but could be a bit harder to pull off for someone new to 3d printing. Especially if there are failed prints x) It could add a bit to the "cost" even though it's not easy to measure in dollars.
I make 3d art and assets for a living and i gotta say we often overlook how hard it is to design and make these things, even though in the end it costs almost nothing to produce, the initial cost is really high (imagine the price of a full team of artists working for months on a specific design)
In a way it's similar to softwares and programs with liscences where it technically doesnt cost anything to make a new copy of the files but making it in the first place is hard. Out of the models i've made none of them really ended up being worth it in terms of revenue and hours spent for instance :[
Thanks brother! Yes even the creators had to put in many hours for these models to create them from scratch, I should've said there were no failures when I printed these models! Thanks for your insight into the 3d modeling side!
The 3d creative community has put paid to that argument. The creators can create awesome stuff without needing the corporate oversight, and make good wages doing it. Just because GW uses a bad and expensive creative process doesn't mean that the people creating these other models are not doing it better, because they are, and I'd bet the ones with similar skills to the paid GW guys make similar money.
Just curious, were do you get these models? I've looked for some Ork models and, I mean yeah I get some models but nothing Games Workshop quality tier of detail.
They can't link it or GW will take it down, but there are many places on the internet where lawyers are not allowed and you can find anything.
Great video! I'm just now getting into Warhammer and happen to own a 3d printer, so this is very helpful for me. Could you possibly include a link to the file that you used?
Bro, did you watch the video?
This is nice and all but, where do i get the STLs now rhat Cults has been purged?
This was awesome helped me alot just working on getting a bigger printer for a warlord file I got
Thats the reason I upgraded to the saturn but even then i still feel like i want bigger lol it's never ending
@@battlebrothersam o most definitely I don't think I'd be happy with size until I can print a good 3 story building for games haha
yeah I ended up using more resin with reprints but yeah 2000 pt army for like 70 bucks with supplies(Resin/Fep/ALcohol/Gloves)
Well I mean its simple why its so expensive. There are people out there who don't have the technical know how to operate a 3D printer (myself included) and GW know these people will pay for the model (Not myself included).
Totally! With one bottle of resin for about 33$ I printed out 1500$ worth of primaris.
Jesus! Is that AUD?
@@battlebrothersam USD. For the price of one primaris "character" I made a squad of every type of primaris and all of the heroes
-Prints the Knights legs in Pieces instead of one Piece, digitaly assembled and Posed so it looks cooler, then complains about posing issues
-Cures the Pieces before removing Supports and then cries about it
Happy days Brother! Really gave me a good chuckle. But those Knights really look good, wanting to Print one but kinda scared because of the size. I'll get there eventually. Nice touch exposing the Greed, always funny to see what you could buy instead with the Money you save from Printing.
Jo, Jo, Jo, you hold me accountable and I thank you for it brother lol I'm glad you got a chuckle LOL I make the best T shaped knights 😂 do it brother print it for your monthly challenge 😁
It's crazy how expensive some models are. My personal turning point were ork meganobs - 65$ for 3 models...3!!! Need I to say that ingame they are cheap fodder unit compared to other terminator units, that you'd better take 10-15 models, so thats 325$ for 450 pts atm. This is just bullocks.
Now that's a joke
GW premium price gone so far.
That is why i am moving to Gundam.
i can buy a (protagonist) Gundam Aearial (1/144) for $10.
any HG grade Gundam is around $12 ish. it shows How Much regular plastic models cost in production.
P.S.
Gundam is Not Wargame. So You have
1. never need to build hundreds points of Army.
2. never need to collect/buy multi of same boxes for skirmish.
3. never need to build/paint multi of same models for units.
buy, build, paint one of your fav Gundam kit in any faction.
Where do you get the files?
Well injection molding costs big money... my neighbor just did a simple model for the medical industry (no 3D print) and he was into it for $20,000. That's why you have to charge up front. You have to keep the lights on, pay employees, insurance, rent, electricity, heat, taxes, pay for shelf space, discounts for dealers.. the list goes on.
But sometimes they get greedy and the executives make way too much.
The cost savings is one thing, but one thing I don't see brought up enough is that 3d Printing is fundamentally a more valuable skill.
Learning blender, producing your own minis is 100x as useful as buying a box and putting them together.
You should put the links on new tech sites and/or in emails when requested
What do you mean new tech sites?
@@battlebrothersam Gab, Odysee, Rumble, BitChute and Minds are examples; they’re more free speech than Facebook Twitter and UA-cam. I can email you if needed to explain more
Where is the link for the STL'S?
A lot of people are defending GW. I agree they're important for a lot of stuff but my main point is that buying purely from GW is a rich man's life I personally have a mix between the two spending no more than 100 a year on official models but most of my joy comes from painting where I buy a mix of paints from around the range. Honestly I think what I do is a nice middle ground between 3d printer shenanigans and supporting the people who make the game.
The costs of 3d printing - 3d printer, tools, resin, IPA, and if u dont know how to model, and want to pay - model, also time
costs of sprued model - design, modeling, manufacturing (injection mold machining, materials, injection machine, labor), packaging (design, labor), marketing, storage.
All this ads up, and the least bought models are made in less quantity, so the costs are bigger per unit.
But yeah, many companies proved that injected models can be a bit cheaper than those from GW
They have all the machines in house and have bound to cover all the costs and gotten profit tenfold. You are right though.
ey bro, I start in Warhammer with a group of my friends, and I'll buy a Resin printer in a few months, Im interested in the STL you used but I know the dificult to say it for the final part of the video :c
Great video I Subscribe you ^^
Where to buy the Titan model file in the video?😢
I got my Mars 2 pro for $140 on sale it was an absolute steal.
Christ of the night that's a bargain
@@battlebrothersam Yeah I was watching it like a hawk. The wash station I got cost almost as much lol.
I use a Flashforge Foto 9.25" 6k the print quality is excellent but you are kind of locked into their own slicer software. That said their 4K 8.9" printer works with Chitubox and is around $200. I also have a Voxelab which is a Flashforge rebrand Proxima 6.0 printer and I have no complaints with any of them. They aren't fancy, but as for churning out good quality prints they do that with no hassle.
good on ya for having solidarity with the 3d makers, GW's scummy corporatism is why we need them in the first place.
Without them we would have nothing to print! 😁
Do you happen to know the keywords you used to find the files on Cults?
EDIT: Ah, got to the part of the video where you talk about direct links. Nevermind then. Ill start hunting them down myself!
Lol I do think they still come up under imperial knights but it could've changed with the DMCA banwave
@@battlebrothersam hi, can you share/send the link here or in PM please? or if you still have the stls ?
Great content where did you find the files for them they look amazing ?
Thanks brother! Cults3d
The very moment when a good 3D printer costs less than an army of 2000 points from GW. 😅😅
😂😂
Hey, is it ok if I ask where you got the files for each of the Imperial Knights? I've been trying to find deals on actual GW models but still couldn't justify the price. Can you lend a hand Brother Sam?
What annoys me a lot of the time is the unique characters and special units.
Some models are, dare I say, reasonable. Like I really like my Reikenor and I think he has a fair price (34 euros) but something like the knight relictor which is just a stormcast with different clothing to be 27 euros is ridiculous! And this is for AOS which is generally less expensive.
For space marines you got things like Primaris Captain that is 31.50 for a little space marine or Primaris Lieutenant with Power Sword that is 27 euros and it's just a normal space marine with a sword.
The single models which you have to take for a legal list are a scam
Games Workshop needs to embrace the next area in miniatures if they want to remain relevant. Release official GW print files and allow them to be used in sanctioned events.
There's no reason for anyone to get into the official product at this point due to the cost. Very few people have the kind of disposable income it would take to get involved in this hobby.
I've been interested in 40K and GW products for 13 years now, but never bit the bullet because the cost of entry is just so high.
Now I can make an 1500+ point army for less than $400? And it keeps getting cheaper the more I print? I'm sold.
I'm just getting into the hobby and I found out that to buy all the wargear needed for a competitive crisis battlesuit squad would cost 1100 dollars in crisis commander kits to get the necessary amount of weapons for the squad. Ofc you can kitbash and do other stuff like that but the fact that GW is too incompetent to provide an alternative really shows how out of touch they are. 3d printing seems like a necessity even if you dont mind to paying for the 40k branded models
Do you mind sharing the stl for the war dog stalkers would make great additions to my chaos army
I am finding it hard to choose what kind of resin I should be using. I heard of Resinaway and thought ABS resin would be good, but are there any ABS resins that aren't too bad smell wise?
Where I could find these incredible models???
I normally call foul ball on most all pirating and bootlegging, but sheesh their prices are OUTRAGEOUS! It's still sus to bootleg but they're asking for it at that price hike.
Do you think games Workshop should make 3d printable files?
@@battlebrothersam that's a slippery slope for them. Would be letting the genie out of the bottle really.
@@xion1305 It's already out.
for anyone who sees this, any idea where to find these specific files? ive been searching around for a while and had no luck
what is the discord link? I searched Battlebrothersam and nothing came up?
Fr like it amazes me how expensive these things cost compared to other hobby models luckily i found a person with a resin printer to buy from cause if not i wont buy warhammer
Instead of disposable nitrile gloves, get a thick reusable one instead. It offers better protection and creates less waste. The disposable ones doesn't offer enough protection, especially when dealing with IPA.
The only reason I haven't went with reusable is they are quite thick and I think that would make it hard to remove the supports, do you have any recommendations?
@@battlebrothersam For larger models, I have no problem removing supports with the thicker gloves. For miniatures, if I really need the extra dexterity, I will swap to the disposable glove on one hand for support removal. I started off using disposable gloves as well, but now that I have the thicker gloves, I rarely use any of the disposable gloves I had left.
I might look into them more a few people have said it now
Hey do you know were I can get good ork stl files?
Tons of creators for orks! Cults3d and myminifactory are your best bets
Cheers man
I want to do this so bad but I still don't get how to manually do supports.
I've been printing PLA for years but just ordered an Anycubic Mono 2 to get started with printing Warhammer.
sorry for the specific question but can i use methylated spirits instead of isopropyl alcohol?
I believe you can someone in the discord mentioned it
For recording on screen use OBS that way you don't get the bars
Thanks!
Where do you get the files from?
I only recently got into 3d printing, but I’m always on the hunt to find specific files to print. Right now I just found some Tau looking things on Thingiverse. I heard rumors about models on apps like Telegram, but it seems like a minefield to me.
The best tau models are from pipermakes
@@battlebrothersam I don’t know what that is. But I know I’m definitely gonna try and keep looking for models to print. Although my 3d printer uses plastic filament and not resin.
@@goliath1179it’s the artists display name, you can just google them. They’ve got a slightly distinct vibe but are among the best of the non 1:1 models