Good job Ray. I'm an automotive locksmith. We don't do too much if any rekeying any more. Back in the day when I was on the road myself I had keying kits for just about every car out there. I replaced more ignitions than I can count. Since transponders came out now we basically do 2 things and stay busy all day. We make/program lost keys/fobs and lockouts. We just don't have time for the repair stuff and to be honest programming and lockouts are much more profitable so we would lose money taking repairs on. People get mad and say "I thought you were a car locksmith" lol. I don't care I have to do what's good for business. Glad someone is still willing to do that stuff for people. Interesting I never saw kits like that. I would buy the locks from wholesalers and we would use large kits with all the wafers and springs for a particular brand. They aren't interchangeable unless they use the same cylinders. For you DIY guys if you get one that is hanging up and you don't want to buy a keying kit or new cylinder you can remove the bad wafers and spring for that chamber. It's a hack job and I never did it but OK for a DIY guy. With the cylinder out and the key in the lock you can see which wafer doesn't look right and or not sitting flush. Usually it's bent and or very worn. This is a common thing on Honda's. The key stops turning in the lock. Doors and ignitions. VW's have issues with the ignition housing. Basically the key stops turning because a part broke off in the housing.
You are right about Hondas. I had a 2004 Honda Civic, when it was around 5-6 years the door lock would not turn. The first tumbler turned out to be worn out. I could not find a rebuild kit anywhere so I just throw it away. In the next 5-6 years the next tumbler wore out, threw it away. Then the trunk lock tumbler went bad. It was nice to see how the actual repair is done.
@@bohdanked This is the crazy thing about Honda. They have been using the same crappy wafers for 20 years. This is a known issue to them and they never fixed it. You just didn't know where to look but any locksmith supply sells Honda keying kits. The door locks are a PITA to to R&R. They have a little clip that's fun to get in and out.
@@mattc.310 On the VW's it's a little piece of metal that breaks off inside the housing. It's for the steering wheel lock. It basically wedges the key cylinder from turning. You can actually take them apart, remove the broken piece and put it back together. Your wheel won't lock any more when you pull the key out. VW has known about this issue for years. What your guy did was change the housing and reuse the key cylinder most likely or he did what Ray did and rekey a new cylinder along with a new housing. None of this is rocket surgery. The issue is when you can't turn the key to depress the retainer like Ray did. That's when it gets a lot more involved. That's usually what auto locksmiths deal with.
I think I'm watching too many of Rays videos. I grabbed my car keys jumped in my car to drive down to the local auto shop. Trouble is I got in the left hand front but I live in Australia the steering wheel is on the right hand side !
Back in the 80's I started working for a Automotive Supply Co. We sold key blanks, cylinders, etc....I had to learn how to do this. The thing that blew me away, Briggs and Stratton made all Domestic Vehicles ignition keys and parts. Who'd a thunk
You surprised me Ray. I worked at GM dealerships for many years doing 15a work. I was the only one there who could re-key lock cylinders. Your knowledge is really vast. You do it all! Heavy line, brakes, driveability etc. You are a rare breed. BTW I love seeing young families doing well.
Good video of rekeying a replacement lock to match the old one. Wish I had seen this before doing the same on a Ford Superduty a while ago. At least I got it done and it made a world of difference. I learned not to have so many keys etc. on the ignition key ring to avoid wearing out the switch prematurely.
Yep, learned that on an old Click and Clack episode years ago and have done the same to prevent the ignition lock cylinder from wearing out at almost 200K miles on the odometer.
You did real good with those small parts. I spent 40 yrs as a locksmith/safe tech. The front tumblers wear more and the plug gets deformed, hence the the tough removal of number two tumbler. If the sticking is not real bad a new code cut key to factory specs (not just a copy of the worn key) may fix the problem. I like to puff a little graphite in my locks once a year. Great Vids Ray & team
Excellent video on something I had not seen or done before (and I believe that is true for most people). Thanks for recording, editing and posting your videos, I know it is a lot of work and I really appreciate it!
Hello Ray, just to let you informed : I own a WK (WH diesel) 2006. I got a recall 2 years later from Jeep France to replace the cylinder because it was really smooth to turn and some customers , just in lightly hitting the key with her knee could make the key turning and stop the engine. Can you imagine doing this on high speed on a highway. When I got the new cylinder replaced on mine, I noticed and was surpised and curious how hard it was to turn the key off, at a point that I was affraid to break the key !! I still have my WK nowadays and never had a problem or break the key :) Enjoy. Herve.
I did a complete auto to 5 speed swap on my '04 Silverado a few months ago. I swapped the column and saved my old ignition barrel, I didn't want to just swap the igniton because the manual has a safety release built into the tumbler, and of course the auto ignition doesn't, so I planned to eventually take them both to a local locksmith shop and have him swap the tumblers, the problem with that is the old guy only works a couple days a week and takes his time on stuff like that, plus I'd actually have to remember to drop them off 😅, but after watching this video I may attempt it myself
Ray, I used to do this kind of key-ing on all locs with an angle grinder in the field. I had a couple of hundreds of pins and springs... I never ever grease the pins because if you do, that accumulates dust and degradation of the metal parts. The only acceptable lubricant for locs and tumblers is graphite. Dust not aerosol spray. I mean you do great work and I love your videos, very educational. 🤗
@@Justin_LaNoue haven't tried. I just carried normal pencils ✏️ in the plastic case where I had everything and used to use fine sand paper to sand the tip of the pencil and used that dust as a lubricant. I believe PTFE is a hard-ish coating on the already small parts and that introduces size on the already small tolerances. Because of this, i wouldn't use it. You're better off not using anything. Just put it together without any lubricant. The tolerances are large enough and there no force to gauge the metal. Keep in mind that I used graphite because I used to do this for apartment buildings before proxy cards were a common thing and most people used keys to get in. I wouldn't use it for my home as I don't open the door 50-100 times a day. For normal use, just leave the metal clean.
Ray your videos take me back to when I worked as an automotive mechanic. You remind me of the good old days. I think your channel has been better since you opened your own shop. Keep it up and keep supper Dave he’s A good egg. I hope the new guy works out for you all
When messing with tiny parts, you should use several white microfiber towels to line your work area. They are terrific in keeping your parts from walking, rolling, or bouncing away.
I've never seen that procedure done before. It was a bit unnerving for me, but not for you - as usual. Nothing phases you it seems. Thanks for the excellent commentary on the procedure, I appreciate that a lot. Maybe a "simple" operation that I found interesting. Thanks for the Lauren/WifeUnit cameo, always nice to see your beautiful wife. 😊
In the motorcycle world we have a similar issue with keys jamming up in the barrel, baring in mind that ours are exposed to the elements ( it rains a lot in England ) its probably twice as bad as a car. To fix the the problem we run a graphite pencil up and down the key and slot it in and out and repeat the application as many time as necessary. It works brilliantly and frees up lock. As young engineer I was told never put any lubricant down the barrel or your asking for trouble. Motorcycle locks can mega-expensive and are often a pain in the butt to remove having been fitted with sheer-bolts 🤨
Its not just a Jeep thing. I had to replace the complete ignition in my Dodge 1500. Wish I could of found a video like your or anyone for that matter to show how to do it. Wish I would of thought to play some 4 non blondes, yet for some reason I forgot to. Thank you for the video Ray
I’ve only ever done a tumbler replacement once on a Ford. The barrel came generic with all the locking pins the same length, until you installed the key and filed down the pins flush with the barrel. Same basic technology and much easier to do than being a watch maker! OH, and I think Dave was on the other end of that screwdriver! 😅
A couple suggestions. 1.) I would have used a bottle brush and twisted that in the cylinder housing of the car and then blown it out with compressed air to remove any potential metal shavings from the old cylinder. 2.) I would have felt to make sure that all the wafer pins (which is what they're called) are totally flush with the cylinder, it looks like Ray did, but if the key is worn down enough, it may have just a slight offset causing it to barely catch on the sheer line (which is what Ray is talking about at the 19:40 mark when he calls it the housing body). 3.) I'd use graphite powder for lube as the grease would pick up dirt particals over time and potentially cause the lock to become difficult to insert the key or turn the cylinder.
When I was in junior high school I started working on locks. I've been re-pinning cylinders ever since. My office furniture (day job) had locks with the same pin design as those. I re-pinned all my friend's desks and cabinets so they only needed one key.
I have done this type of repair many ways.... fastest is to just buy new key and lock cylinder (if there is no key chip)... also to keep costs down for customer i have pulled the obstructing wafer (letting them know, of course).. i also have done what you did here... which is hard with large phillanges.. Nice video of something most techs dont do or see very often. Cheers!
Rainman Ray.. I used to like building lock cylinders. Probably because the other two ASE Master Tech's ( I was the third) didn't like doing them so the boss always "let" me do them. I hated them at first but after a few of them I started to like doing them.
Hey Ray!!!! 🎉 Take a vacation, you deserve it my friend. You and the little lady should visit Beautiful East Texas. Have a grand ole’ time and, well, since your hear, maybe fix a water leak on the back passenger door of my BMW 😊
In the end, if a rebuild kit was unavailable, I think you could have cleaned and rebuilt that ignition lock anyway. That would have also made a good video. I loved the part where the spring slipped into a parallel universe. My wife that that myself and springs are soon parted, and she right. I feel I have to have to remove springs in a hermetically sealed chamber in order not to lose them.
Fab. I've done same with a Ford - in that case they were called wafers and looked like round washers with a slot in the middle and tabs on the edge, worked the exact same. 😊👍❤
You can use a smooth file or sandpaper to round over the wafer (tumbler) corners a bit to account for variable key cuts. The front two and back two in particular. The corner of the grooves in the cylinder can be scraped a bit to round them as well. Oh fun times! 🔑
I've dealt with a similar issue on my previous car, 03 Impala. Luckily, GM had the wisdom to make the key from softer metal than the lock cylinder. And that key was just a plain blade key. Once I got a freshly cut key, the sticking and jiggling went away after a few times. Usually the tip of the key wears out since it has to traverse every single tumbler on the way in and out.
Youre doing a far better job at doing repairs than many mechanics ive saw. Many mechanics will just say it came in that way. Even though they themselves broke it. Which is why I take photos before leaving the dealer.
As a locksmith and watching it after work i felt like i worked 9 hours. Losing that spring gave me ptsd flashbacks Ps. Please do a chevy 10 cut ignition. Those are fun.
As a locksmith who used to work on cars, manufacturers have made it so difficult to work on them most locksmiths these days need a degree in computer sciences to work on them. There are guys who specialize in automotive work and make a pretty penny. Hat tip to you, sir, for doing this repair. It's not easy.
Yup I'm an automotive locksmith. We run 80 to 150 calls per week. Just lockouts and lost keys/fobs. We don't do any repairs. We have just about every programmer out there and many CNC milling key machines.
Awesome job Ray! Not too many mechanics do rekeying anymore. It brings back a lot of memories from my dealership days. Awesome job also on channel growth my dream someday is for my channel to grow like yours. Kuddos from Kansas!🇺🇸✌️
I've commented before about ideas on potential fixes. But I'm not a mechanic by trade. But I am a tradesman and I often deal with sticky and worn locks. This is a lock cylinder that is greased. Most of what I deal with are not greased. I talked to a local locksmith about sticking locks and he suggested the first thing to try should always be a good Teflon based lubricant. And that advice has served me very well. All locks and keys will wear out eventually and need this type of repair and you've done a great job explaining it. But you might offer a lower cost option where you lube up the lock first for not too much money and warn them of impending complete failure so they have a little more time to scrape the money together. Just a thought.
Nice job ray and that's great going the the extra mile to fix that knee bolster, there are many folks in your field of expertise that would have just put that together and said oh well
I'm a locksmith in training learning from my parents and we pretty much do everything when it comes to locks and for sticky locks id start off with a silicone based lubricant we use houdini but if it was just sticking u prob could have gotten it free and working again without swaping out or repinning ignition but when repinning id suggest u take a bit of that grease and put a little in the spring holes and little where the wafers go that way once u put them in they won't fall out so u dont have to hold them in place
Thanks for the tutorial. I have to do that to my 2003 Jeep Liberty. Occasionally it sticks in the winter. Probably just lack of lubricant but I did order the doorman cylinder from rock auto.
Those are actually called wafers, and your kit was complete - those keys only have four cut depths: 1-4. If you have a worn key that's causing binding, the best option is to have a new one cut from code. Any automotive locksmith could decode the bitting from the key and then cut a new one from that.
Sometimes the key is too worn to get the correct bitting. In my business as I have to provide a warranty, we usually get the key code. I only do lost keys so it's a bit different. We very rarely get called for duplicates and when we do there really isn't a price difference. I tell them it's cheaper to go to a brick and mortar instead of paying us a service call.
I did this to my 07 tahoe using an oem GM tumbler but still able to use the factory key. Easy to do but very time consuming. You have to remember the numbers on each key slot from the original one to the replacement one.
i have an old jeep yj. my ignition/key was worn and the key could slide out before the ignition was off. i had a new key made at the home depot on the "scan" key machine and it cut the new key back to the correct size. the new key works great and my ignition didnt have to be replaced.
I used a Dorman ignition cylinder rebuild kit on my daughter’s ‘04 Ford Focus when she was in college and was stranded away from campus. It is a tedious task, but it saves having to have an extra key on the ring just for the ignition.
Have been watching since before the "firing" 🙂 Always fun and educational from a long time auto and airplane mechanic Don't know how it comes out? Read the book 🙂
I've had GM, Ford, Chrysler, AMC, Datsun, & VW ignition, glovebox, console, trunk, liftgate, and door cylinders apart. I haven't found any with more than four different wafer sizes. Somebody will come up with one that's got three, five, or six but all I've seen is four.
Tuned into Rainman Ray's repair, and watched a Lock Picking Lawyer episode!
Rainman Ray's the lockpicking lawyer Repairs.
Now, can Ray pick the lock in less than one minute? 🤣
@@carsparks1980 Wonder if lock picking invokes the 10,000 hour rule. Surely not for picking alone.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Good job Ray. I'm an automotive locksmith. We don't do too much if any rekeying any more. Back in the day when I was on the road myself I had keying kits for just about every car out there. I replaced more ignitions than I can count. Since transponders came out now we basically do 2 things and stay busy all day. We make/program lost keys/fobs and lockouts. We just don't have time for the repair stuff and to be honest programming and lockouts are much more profitable so we would lose money taking repairs on. People get mad and say "I thought you were a car locksmith" lol. I don't care I have to do what's good for business. Glad someone is still willing to do that stuff for people. Interesting I never saw kits like that. I would buy the locks from wholesalers and we would use large kits with all the wafers and springs for a particular brand. They aren't interchangeable unless they use the same cylinders. For you DIY guys if you get one that is hanging up and you don't want to buy a keying kit or new cylinder you can remove the bad wafers and spring for that chamber. It's a hack job and I never did it but OK for a DIY guy. With the cylinder out and the key in the lock you can see which wafer doesn't look right and or not sitting flush. Usually it's bent and or very worn. This is a common thing on Honda's. The key stops turning in the lock. Doors and ignitions. VW's have issues with the ignition housing. Basically the key stops turning because a part broke off in the housing.
I’m totally going to just remove the bad wafers from here on out. Nobody tell on me.
You are right about Hondas. I had a 2004 Honda Civic, when it was around 5-6 years the door lock would not turn. The first tumbler turned out to be worn out. I could not find a rebuild kit anywhere so I just throw it away. In the next 5-6 years the next tumbler wore out, threw it away. Then the trunk lock tumbler went bad.
It was nice to see how the actual repair is done.
I can vouch for the VWs. Had the housing break on ours. Took it over to a keymaster and had it repaired. Same keys, no problems.
@@bohdanked This is the crazy thing about Honda. They have been using the same crappy wafers for 20 years. This is a known issue to them and they never fixed it. You just didn't know where to look but any locksmith supply sells Honda keying kits. The door locks are a PITA to to R&R. They have a little clip that's fun to get in and out.
@@mattc.310 On the VW's it's a little piece of metal that breaks off inside the housing. It's for the steering wheel lock. It basically wedges the key cylinder from turning. You can actually take them apart, remove the broken piece and put it back together. Your wheel won't lock any more when you pull the key out. VW has known about this issue for years. What your guy did was change the housing and reuse the key cylinder most likely or he did what Ray did and rekey a new cylinder along with a new housing. None of this is rocket surgery. The issue is when you can't turn the key to depress the retainer like Ray did. That's when it gets a lot more involved. That's usually what auto locksmiths deal with.
Another successful repair by the Rainman Ray. As an old timer mechanic i enjoy watching great repair videos. Thank you Ray!!! Keep up the content.
Since I am 77 years young, back in the day, we just replaced the switch, due to Computer Controls things have changed for the worse in my opinion...
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. You don't have to explain the process but you share this information with your viewers and it's appreciated!
Hell yeah! Was hoping the owner would green light most of the repairs. It will be satisfying to see a little glory returned to this build.
I think I'm watching too many of Rays videos. I grabbed my car keys jumped in my car to drive down to the local auto shop. Trouble is I got in the left hand front but I live in Australia the steering wheel is on the right hand side !
Lol
Uhh yeah that is a problem
Are you sure it was the auto shop you were heading for? Sounds more like a run to the liquor store for a refill.
Back in the 80's I started working for a Automotive Supply Co. We sold key blanks, cylinders, etc....I had to learn how to do this. The thing that blew me away, Briggs and Stratton made all Domestic Vehicles ignition keys and parts. Who'd a thunk
You surprised me Ray. I worked at GM dealerships for many years doing 15a work. I was the only one there who could re-key lock cylinders. Your knowledge is really vast. You do it all! Heavy line, brakes, driveability etc. You are a rare breed. BTW I love seeing young families doing well.
Are we all thinking when the little key bit flicked out, if that was me it would be off the bench and down a nearby drain. Great video, thanks
Good video of rekeying a replacement lock to match the old one. Wish I had seen this before doing the same on a Ford Superduty a while ago. At least I got it done and it made a world of difference. I learned not to have so many keys etc. on the ignition key ring to avoid wearing out the switch prematurely.
Yep, learned that on an old Click and Clack episode years ago and have done the same to prevent the ignition lock cylinder from wearing out at almost 200K miles on the odometer.
You have to start a new channel called "I fix Jeeps".
Nothing better for a Jeep than Dorman parts. Good for GM too.
Always nice to see Lauren.
You did real good with those small parts. I spent 40 yrs as a locksmith/safe tech. The front tumblers wear more and the plug gets deformed, hence the the tough removal of number two tumbler. If the sticking is not real bad a new code cut key to factory specs (not just a copy of the worn key) may fix the problem. I like to puff a little graphite in my locks once a year. Great Vids Ray & team
Excellent video on something I had not seen or done before (and I believe that is true for most people). Thanks for recording, editing and posting your videos, I know it is a lot of work and I really appreciate it!
Hello Ray, just to let you informed : I own a WK (WH diesel) 2006. I got a recall 2 years later from Jeep France to replace the cylinder because it was really smooth to turn and some customers , just in lightly hitting the key with her knee could make the key turning and stop the engine. Can you imagine doing this on high speed on a highway. When I got the new cylinder replaced on mine, I noticed and was surpised and curious how hard it was to turn the key off, at a point that I was affraid to break the key !! I still have my WK nowadays and never had a problem or break the key :) Enjoy. Herve.
I did a complete auto to 5 speed swap on my '04 Silverado a few months ago. I swapped the column and saved my old ignition barrel, I didn't want to just swap the igniton because the manual has a safety release built into the tumbler, and of course the auto ignition doesn't, so I planned to eventually take them both to a local locksmith shop and have him swap the tumblers, the problem with that is the old guy only works a couple days a week and takes his time on stuff like that, plus I'd actually have to remember to drop them off 😅, but after watching this video I may attempt it myself
LOVED this one - not something I've ever seen on anyone else's mechanic's channel!
Ray, you continue to amaze me with your knowledge of EVERY facet of a vehicle! Never seen a lock rebuild before, so thanks.
I was getting ready to say I'd never seen a lock rebuilt before, so I'll piggyback onto your comment.
Ray, I used to do this kind of key-ing on all locs with an angle grinder in the field. I had a couple of hundreds of pins and springs...
I never ever grease the pins because if you do, that accumulates dust and degradation of the metal parts. The only acceptable lubricant for locs and tumblers is graphite. Dust not aerosol spray.
I mean you do great work and I love your videos, very educational. 🤗
Just curious, what about dry PTFE spray? I use that on small push mower axles etc. to not attract dust.
@@Justin_LaNoue haven't tried. I just carried normal pencils ✏️ in the plastic case where I had everything and used to use fine sand paper to sand the tip of the pencil and used that dust as a lubricant.
I believe PTFE is a hard-ish coating on the already small parts and that introduces size on the already small tolerances. Because of this, i wouldn't use it. You're better off not using anything. Just put it together without any lubricant. The tolerances are large enough and there no force to gauge the metal.
Keep in mind that I used graphite because I used to do this for apartment buildings before proxy cards were a common thing and most people used keys to get in. I wouldn't use it for my home as I don't open the door 50-100 times a day. For normal use, just leave the metal clean.
Nice work Rebuilding that ignition Lock Cylinder Raymond Even With Open box with missing parts 27:56 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Ray your videos take me back to when I worked as an automotive mechanic. You remind me of the good old days. I think your channel has been better since you opened your own shop. Keep it up and keep supper Dave he’s A good egg. I hope the new guy works out for you all
Once again you surprise me with a special part or procedure that I never knew existed
Thanks Ray and great video
Aww owner Said yes to Series of repairs on green Jeep nice Raymond 0:55 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
When messing with tiny parts, you should use several white microfiber towels to line your work area. They are terrific in keeping your parts from walking, rolling, or bouncing away.
Even better in a tray so they can't jump out😊
@@imagseeras per lock picking lawyer
Great video as always Raymond And bonus Pannel Repair As well whoot whoot 34:30 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I've never seen that procedure done before. It was a bit unnerving for me, but not for you - as usual. Nothing phases you it seems. Thanks for the excellent commentary on the procedure, I appreciate that a lot. Maybe a "simple" operation that I found interesting.
Thanks for the Lauren/WifeUnit cameo, always nice to see your beautiful wife. 😊
You mean "faze."
@@rotorhead1564 you are absolutely right. Don't know where my head was at! 😄
One of the more interesting video I have seen. Nice job.
In the motorcycle world we have a similar issue with keys jamming up in the barrel, baring in mind that ours are exposed to the elements ( it rains a lot in England ) its probably twice as bad as a car. To fix the the problem we run a graphite pencil up and down the key and slot it in and out and repeat the application as many time as necessary. It works brilliantly and frees up lock. As young engineer I was told never put any lubricant down the barrel or your asking for trouble. Motorcycle locks can mega-expensive and are often a pain in the butt to remove having been fitted with sheer-bolts 🤨
Ray I have never done anything like this. I have learned something new today. Thank you
In every business there is always a key man
Don't forget to return the used parts for extra profits!...😂😂😂
Its not just a Jeep thing. I had to replace the complete ignition in my Dodge 1500. Wish I could of found a video like your or anyone for that matter to show how to do it. Wish I would of thought to play some 4 non blondes, yet for some reason I forgot to. Thank you for the video Ray
I’ve only ever done a tumbler replacement once on a Ford. The barrel came generic with all the locking pins the same length, until you installed the key and filed down the pins flush with the barrel. Same basic technology and much easier to do than being a watch maker!
OH, and I think Dave was on the other end of that screwdriver! 😅
A couple suggestions. 1.) I would have used a bottle brush and twisted that in the cylinder housing of the car and then blown it out with compressed air to remove any potential metal shavings from the old cylinder. 2.) I would have felt to make sure that all the wafer pins (which is what they're called) are totally flush with the cylinder, it looks like Ray did, but if the key is worn down enough, it may have just a slight offset causing it to barely catch on the sheer line (which is what Ray is talking about at the 19:40 mark when he calls it the housing body). 3.) I'd use graphite powder for lube as the grease would pick up dirt particals over time and potentially cause the lock to become difficult to insert the key or turn the cylinder.
Whatever you put your hands on you usually fix it you did a good job with that key
Ray. You really know Everything.....this was so satisfying to watch....for a while, we were all Keyed Up....but in the end, perfection! great work....
Nice repair! Enjoyed the video,even simple repairs are great to watch
Great educational video! I cant think of a better video that ive seen that was done on this topic!
When I was in junior high school I started working on locks. I've been re-pinning cylinders ever since. My office furniture (day job) had locks with the same pin design as those. I re-pinned all my friend's desks and cabinets so they only needed one key.
that was super cool. i can't beleive how interesting it really was.
I have done this type of repair many ways.... fastest is to just buy new key and lock cylinder (if there is no key chip)... also to keep costs down for customer i have pulled the obstructing wafer (letting them know, of course).. i also have done what you did here... which is hard with large phillanges.. Nice video of something most techs dont do or see very often. Cheers!
New wafers ray your calling them keys 17:10 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
That was interesting to watch. Patience is a virtue when dealing with teeny tiny parts. Good job.🥳
That "jumping tumbler" was a 10mm socket in a previous life. It knew you had replacements so it "let" you find itself easily.
This was such a great video. Lauren is looking fine today. Ray, you're a very lucky man. Great family man.
Tedious work. Bravo!
Hey Ray, that was really interesting. I've never seen that before so I learned something new. Cheers!
Rainman Ray.. I used to like building lock cylinders. Probably because the other two ASE Master Tech's ( I was the third) didn't like doing them so the boss always "let" me do them. I hated them at first but after a few of them I started to like doing them.
Hey Ray!!!! 🎉 Take a vacation, you deserve it my friend. You and the little lady should visit Beautiful East Texas. Have a grand ole’ time and, well, since your hear, maybe fix a water leak on the back passenger door of my BMW 😊
All your videos are interesting. This video is one of the most interesting one. In a few ways. Thank you for sharing.
In the end, if a rebuild kit was unavailable, I think you could have cleaned and rebuilt that ignition lock anyway. That would have also made a good video. I loved the part where the spring slipped into a parallel universe. My wife that that myself and springs are soon parted, and she right. I feel I have to have to remove springs in a hermetically sealed chamber in order not to lose them.
Fab. I've done same with a Ford - in that case they were called wafers and looked like round washers with a slot in the middle and tabs on the edge, worked the exact same. 😊👍❤
You can use a smooth file or sandpaper to round over the wafer (tumbler) corners a bit to account for variable key cuts. The front two and back two in particular. The corner of the grooves in the cylinder can be scraped a bit to round them as well. Oh fun times! 🔑
Very good I never wanted to tackle refining an ignition you made look easy 🎉
I've dealt with a similar issue on my previous car, 03 Impala. Luckily, GM had the wisdom to make the key from softer metal than the lock cylinder. And that key was just a plain blade key. Once I got a freshly cut key, the sticking and jiggling went away after a few times. Usually the tip of the key wears out since it has to traverse every single tumbler on the way in and out.
Love the slow-mo replays ❤
A locksmith would have charged $500 for that. And they wouldn't have fixed the knee bolster. Excellent repair by Ray.
But would he have cleaned the dirty plastic in the car…?
❤
Youre doing a far better job at doing repairs than many mechanics ive saw. Many mechanics will just say it came in that way. Even though they themselves broke it. Which is why I take photos before leaving the dealer.
When I do anything that has small spring I always take it apart inside a plastic bag. Catches parts that like to 'disappear'.
Brilliant as always
As a locksmith and watching it after work i felt like i worked 9 hours. Losing that spring gave me ptsd flashbacks
Ps. Please do a chevy 10 cut ignition. Those are fun.
Great video! Your knowledge is very impressive!
enjoyable video ray excellent!
your skills never seize to amaze me the bloke even can rebuilt an ignition lock
37th! Hope you’re having a great Saturday morning Ray,Lauren,Dave,and Justin? The newest employee? Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Nice job. I didn’t know how those things were repaired, good knowledge to have on my part👍
As a locksmith who used to work on cars, manufacturers have made it so difficult to work on them most locksmiths these days need a degree in computer sciences to work on them. There are guys who specialize in automotive work and make a pretty penny. Hat tip to you, sir, for doing this repair. It's not easy.
Yup I'm an automotive locksmith. We run 80 to 150 calls per week. Just lockouts and lost keys/fobs. We don't do any repairs. We have just about every programmer out there and many CNC milling key machines.
13:51 I believe the proper sound of the spring exiting the assembly was "beeeeuuuu!"
Great video, just learned how to rebuild ignition key lock
Awesome job Ray! Not too many mechanics do rekeying anymore. It brings back a lot of memories from my dealership days. Awesome job also on channel growth my dream someday is for my channel to grow like yours. Kuddos from Kansas!🇺🇸✌️
Sorry that you couldn’t use a lift to remind us to subscribe to the green button.
Good job Ray I learned something from you again
I've commented before about ideas on potential fixes. But I'm not a mechanic by trade. But I am a tradesman and I often deal with sticky and worn locks. This is a lock cylinder that is greased. Most of what I deal with are not greased. I talked to a local locksmith about sticking locks and he suggested the first thing to try should always be a good Teflon based lubricant. And that advice has served me very well. All locks and keys will wear out eventually and need this type of repair and you've done a great job explaining it. But you might offer a lower cost option where you lube up the lock first for not too much money and warn them of impending complete failure so they have a little more time to scrape the money together. Just a thought.
Nice job ray and that's great going the the extra mile to fix that knee bolster, there are many folks in your field of expertise that would have just put that together and said oh well
Take a shot everytime Ray says "tumbler"
Great tutorial!
Man that sierra looks nice for the age, I wish I lived in a rust free state!
I'm a locksmith in training learning from my parents and we pretty much do everything when it comes to locks and for sticky locks id start off with a silicone based lubricant we use houdini but if it was just sticking u prob could have gotten it free and working again without swaping out or repinning ignition but when repinning id suggest u take a bit of that grease and put a little in the spring holes and little where the wafers go that way once u put them in they won't fall out so u dont have to hold them in place
Thanks for the tutorial. I have to do that to my 2003 Jeep Liberty. Occasionally it sticks in the winter. Probably just lack of lubricant but I did order the doorman cylinder from rock auto.
Great video, very clear instruction
Good video, very informative. My mechanic charged me to have a locksmith do this work.
One word. "Fascinating!" OK. Maybe two words? "Absolutely Fascinating!"
My kind of show.
Best from our little rock.
Dorman for the win is very rarely heard... Usually its "Well, its Dorman or OEM at 10 times the cost" :) Cheers!
Thanks for showing us how to do that, I always wanted to know
Those are actually called wafers, and your kit was complete - those keys only have four cut depths: 1-4. If you have a worn key that's causing binding, the best option is to have a new one cut from code. Any automotive locksmith could decode the bitting from the key and then cut a new one from that.
Sometimes the key is too worn to get the correct bitting. In my business as I have to provide a warranty, we usually get the key code. I only do lost keys so it's a bit different. We very rarely get called for duplicates and when we do there really isn't a price difference. I tell them it's cheaper to go to a brick and mortar instead of paying us a service call.
I did this to my 07 tahoe using an oem GM tumbler but still able to use the factory key.
Easy to do but very time consuming. You have to remember the numbers on each key slot from the original one to the replacement one.
WOW, Rainman Ray Jeep repairs for the win. Rainman Ray he can fix anytime 😮❤
i have an old jeep yj. my ignition/key was worn and the key could slide out before the ignition was off. i had a new key made at the home depot on the "scan" key machine and it cut the new key back to the correct size. the new key works great and my ignition didnt have to be replaced.
I've replaced the lock cylinders before but I didn't know you could get rebuild kits , nice video Ray
The key to a good repair and a barrel of fun.
I'm really impressed with that professional hospital bandage on your right hand. LOL
I used a Dorman ignition cylinder rebuild kit on my daughter’s ‘04 Ford Focus when she was in college and was stranded away from campus. It is a tedious task, but it saves having to have an extra key on the ring just for the ignition.
That's incredible ray nice job on that switch
Have been watching since before the "firing" 🙂
Always fun and educational from a long time auto and airplane mechanic
Don't know how it comes out? Read the book 🙂
Nicely done Ray !
Next time, if you have problems getting the ignition lock cylinder to come out, just give it a "Hawk Tuah"! (Spit in that thang!)
🤣🤣🤣
Can't remember any joke that has gone widespread viral as quickly.
now i know lock cylinders can be rebuilt, I always thought you had to get the cylinder with a new (very expensive) key.
Great Job. Never seen a lock re keyed. Good job Ray😀
Good job Ray 👏 nice to see you all your family mate 😮😅🎉😂
I've had GM, Ford, Chrysler, AMC, Datsun, & VW ignition, glovebox, console, trunk, liftgate, and door cylinders apart. I haven't found any with more than four different wafer sizes.
Somebody will come up with one that's got three, five, or six but all I've seen is four.