I am so happy I found your YT video. My house is 2-story, 1465 sqft,. and is built on a Slab. Therefore, my ductwork is in the wall and ceiling. The explanation for determining the correct size of my ductwork, measuring the return grill, is priceless. Thank you.
Take the total CFM of the blower in AC mode, & divide it by the number of runs you will need. Then apportion each run by total sq' per run to find the cfm needed per run. The ductalator will size the run. Then add the branches together to find the feeder size. Too simple? Dial down as far as possible to reduce discharge noise at the registers. I use .5 cfm to size the return air sizes necessary for grille sizes. The bigger the better because return air is not restricted by static pressure loss.
you don't have to have the round duct apart to size it. just take a piece of string, wrap around the duct, draw a line with a sharpie across the intersection of the two parts of string, then measure that length. that is the "circumference" of the duct pipe. then you can divide that by pi to get the diameter. if you don't have a pi button on your calculator, dividing by 3.14 will get you close enough to the actual number. who says you won't need math in the real world? lol
Hey Tad, Can you please do a video on the parts in a duct work and what they are used for? I do apartmen maintenance but never learned about ducts and there parts.
Using .05 static is actually below the recommended ACCA wedge and Manual "D" in recommended rates. Using .05 on a ductulator is not static but friction rate (Rate per 100' of effective length). Duct design should be done after determining available static pressure (ESP - component losses. Manual "D" require the longest critical path (s/a and r/a ) to determine effective length.
Hi Taddy, thank you , very much for sharing your knowledge! This video is great because solid information from start is well explained. You’re amazing! Thank you.
Just found your channel and not only do you provide excellent information, but the way you explain things makes it easy to understand. Sadly I found out that my new unit was not running efficiently.... not because of the installer or technician, but because my curiosity. I was extremely surprised, that many HVAC companies do not check airflow, TESP or inspect duct work to make sure the system is running as efficient as it should. Most companies just install the unit and leave. They just want to replace parts, system, charge and leave. Don't want to judge, but it seems that they don't mind the system return and duct being undersized, because it will cause the system to fail sooner and create more service calls. I heard that there is a saying that if there is not a leak I will make one. Some of these techs do a pressure test for leaks using nitrogen and they might put too much pressure that if there was no leak... it will make one or create more. Changing the subject.... I have been in this house for 14 years and had many issues with a Goodman heat pump unit. Now I know that many of the problems were because of the high static pressure. The techs always blamed the brand for the problems it was having. I now have a new unit, Carrier 3.5 ton Heat pump and my static pressure was .9 W.C. It probably was the same high static pressure with the Goodman and that made the unit fail alot. With the Goodman unit I went through 3 evap coil replacements and it was about $600-800 each time they needed to be replaced. It makes me think that they did not deal with the static pressure, because it brings in the money. I was able to lower the TESP to .66 W.C by making the return larger. I went from a 24x18 return to a 30x24. This carrier unit TESP is .2 and I am at a .66 W.C.. After searching around and watching videos.... I went into the attic to find out my duct work coming out of the supply is 12" and from your video I need an 18". But I am not sure if the 12" ducts coming out would equate to one 18" supply duct. Below is the link to the Flex Duct layout and sizes. I have a total of 13 vents. i.ibb.co/Ld9kmPM/Flex-Duct-Layout-and-Size.jpg
Hey Danny thank you for watching my videos . I really appreciate your compliments. I try my best to relay information so that everybody can understand. I try not to get too complicated I have a couple other videos you should check out they are awesome They teach you about sizing the duckwork and how the duck work should be laid out I looked at your drawing of your duck work and it looks like its not proportioned properly. Your main duck size feeding the branches Can be done a lot better. The 2 -12" ducks would equal around 800 a 18 inch duct would be around 1400 cfm The cfm quantities don't match For example you cannot feed a 6"- 4 branch system that requires about 400 CFM With a 8" duct that outputs about 200 CFM Be glad to help you straighten it all out There are not a lot of companies or HVAC technicians that make these checks in the field because the lack of training and emphasis.
Here is a Video On Sizing ua-cam.com/video/ynZ_Gmo7FvA/v-deo.html For full access to the full video please click the join button and become a member. ua-cam.com/channels/uMyjTVlkM4xZ5z_eSyoB1w.htmljoin The FULL Video How to size Ductwork ua-cam.com/video/TKqAzRBIjXQ/v-deo.html The full video is about 30 minutes long packed full of answers to all your questions on sizing ductwork.
@@TaddyDigest Researching online and diving into the HVAC world... I have learned a couple of things. One is that the system should not be flex only, but of a metal trunk and then flex branching out from it. Second, that the duct system should not split like mine into both directions, because air will flow more in the direction of less restriction causing uneven distribution. Should the systems start at the supply and end at another and not split into two directions coming out of the air handler?
@@TaddyDigest Here is a video a took of the attic space and duct system layout. I have been told by others that it is a very bad install? Do I need to throw everything out in the attic and start from scratch? Can I just replace the 12" for two 18" and that should fix the static pressure or do the other ducts need to be re-sized also? ua-cam.com/video/iInIN89q8GU/v-deo.html
Hey Tad. New to your channel and I’m impressed on the videos you’ve done. Great explanation to say the least. Unfortunately I’ve got leaks around the takeoffs in the attic duct system and probably have to use some mastic with the brush and tape. Thanks for that tip and others going forward 👍
Don’t use the cheapest filters! It will cause more problems down the road then good. Use a filter that does a little filtration which will give you better air quality and not dirty the system as fast. I recommend using a Merv 5 pleated filter because it’s In the middle, and the majority of furnace can handle the static pressure. Replace monthly!!
Hello Taddy is possible to replace blower motor single speed to another multiple speed the problem is it’s the air very slowly and the system work all the day without stopping but the air is cold. Thanks.
Hello Ted. New to ur channel. I’m home owner also have couple rentals. I’ve quick question in my primary home. I’m thinking about adding additional returns to hot rooms one face the east and other west. Both bedrooms have 8” registers they r about 10-12 feet from main return duck in the walkway. My question is will it help cool down better and faster also if it’s worth the addition ? And last what size should be the return duck size ( same or small ) and return filter housing size ? Thanks !
I would check and make sure that you don't have thermal loss of some kind. That run should take care of that room size If you wish to add a return, add the same size.
Very helpful.. Thanks for that. QUESTION: I have a flexible duct running through my attic that was installed by a professional HVAC company years ago. One room in the house has very restricted air flow. I noticed the flex duct that's feeding that room makes a ridiculously hard U-turn into that room's register. It's a very short length near the end of a trunk line that begins it's U-turn right out of the side of the trunk and into the register. I'm thinking of cutting that ductwork, then splicing enough of a length of the same duct material to create a more gradual bend into that register. I know the less length, the better the airflow but this is situated so that I will need to add 10' - 15' or more feet to do this. Any problem in general doing it this way?
Hi Teddy. I'm new to your channel and I like it. My house is an old house, built in 1913, - I think. Anyways, I noticed, according with your teachings that the ductwork it's all wrong. We have like a 6 inches rigid pipes all over the place. Some vents have a lot of air while other very little. The ones in the upper floor get very little and the A/C has to run longer to cool it down. The house size is 3,000 sf and has a 5 Ton split Trane Unit. But 20-inch ducts for all the vents seems way too big. Advise please!
I have a duct work diy Video you should check out I also have a duct work sizing video too. I you want me to help you 1 on 1 I can do face time I do a duct work consultation for you Just let me know
ua-cam.com/video/ynZ_Gmo7FvA/v-deo.html Here is the ductwork sizing video You can Gain full access to the full video click the join button and become a member. ua-cam.com/channels/uMyjTVlkM4xZ5z_eSyoB1w.htmljoin The FULL Video How to size Ductwork ua-cam.com/video/TKqAzRBIjXQ/v-deo.html The full video is about 30 minutes long packed full of answers to all your questions on sizing ductwork.
All of my ductwork is round 8 inch ductwork but all the air returns have a 16x4 duct and one of the air returns in the hallway is bigger than the duct and there's only half of the vent getting air
I am a brand new subscriber and was researching about how to change hvac duck work because i found that i have a huge hole right after the connection to the machine outside. Aside from what i am researching, you advised to use the cheaper filters but i thought it was good to catch the dust particles and allergens plus i thought it keeps the machine cleaner. Please educate me! I live in an old mobile home and have major air leaking under the home. During the summer it actually feels better under the home than inside the home 😭
Thank you for Joining I want to help you get your ductwork right Here is a video I think will help you Also I have a air flow and duct design guide I am going to send you Let me know if you have any questions ua-cam.com/video/p5KRf2LzM3s/v-deo.html
Awesome video. Supe clear, specially for a diy er. Quick question. I want to add a return air in my basement. After they finished it they only added 2 feed vents. Pretty chilly down down there. Is the size of the return air piping super critical? Lennox G50UH-48c-110-04
I've witnessed bad experiences using "rules of thumb". Generalizing about how many and what size grills and about downsizing by thirds are a real problem. ALWAYS calculate the BTUs required for each room and size accordingly. Large rooms may need a 10 and standard bathrooms are almost always a five. Put your AC where it is needed, don't waste it. ALWAYS start with the last outlet and increase size as you add more outlets until you reach the supply plenum. You will have a naturally balanced system. Air flow sensors only identify problems. Better to design it right before you start installation. One more thing. Sizing your main supply by the unit size only works if you are doing a linear system. IMO units should be placed centrally allowing shorter runs and less heat loss or gain.
Hi. I do have 1800 sqft ranch style house. What size electric furnace I need and what size flexible duct I need. The furnace are going to be in the middle of the ranch.
Hey brother, I am having some issue with a carrier heat pump central air system, the condenser fan is spinning the opposite way. It shows 3 amber blings but no code is listed in the error code list! It’s about 13 years old
@@TaddyDigest thank you brother! I changed the cap but it still spins back wards for 3 mins and then stops and spins clockwise for a min and then shut off! In about 10 to15 mins it does the same thing again. I have been trying to get in touch with the tech support at carrier but afte 10 hrs in total on hold have not gotten through yet!
Thanks I'm curious about a number of things - I've hear round ductwork is quieter. I usually see a mixture for some reason though. With HUGE open floorplans that include kitchens and other rooms, how do you deal with a zone that would probably want multiple CFM needs. Do people with 5 ton units often have two main lines - e.g. 2 16 ton pipes or just do 20-22" and split everything off it.
Depends on the layout of the house and where the and where the furnace or air handler would be located if you had a basement I will do a video tomorrow of a house with a basement and show you how we did the duckwork Let me know all your questions I'll try to answer some in the video
@@TaddyDigest do you have videos how to explain exactly the duck sizing and how many registers to have per room ,some technical use 1 cfm per square,like if a room it’s 100 sf a 6 inch round duck does the Job .....
Click the Join button become a member send me an email Join this channel to get access to perks: ua-cam.com/channels/uMyjTVlkM4xZ5z_eSyoB1w.htmljoin Wanna Learn more about hvac? Check out my hvac tips for technicians playist. ua-cam.com/play/PLVjetZt5xgenmO76adHwb2ctyeBIFKUus.html
I just bought a house and I have a 3.5 Ton AC unit on top of my 100k BTU furnace. The Fan that is in the furnace is a 3/4 hp 2320 CFM on high. The duct sizes that come out of the furnace is (2) square ducts. one of them is sized a 14x8 and the other a 19x8. According to a field duct sizing chart is it completely under cfm. Now my fan is producing 2320 CFM but my unit is 3.5 tons. First are my ducts undersized for my system and do i go off the CFM of the fan or the AC unit which would put it around 1400 CFM? In the summer my AC cannot keep up with the outside heat. Some vents barely any air passes through them I feel like they do not produce enough airflow.
Joe homeowner here, i have 3 ton unit with one return 14x30 Filter. Is it good enough? Or i need couple of more returns on the other side of the house?
Click the join button become a member and I will send you the guide Make sure you are signed in to your UA-cam account Join button is beside subscribe Send me an email after you let me know you joined I will send you my email
Your videos are really helpful! keep them coming! Could you tell me how do i measure a round heating duct after is installed? I need to move some ducts and need to buy extra elbows etc, I don't want to take it apart to measure it until I have the parts at home. If I measure the circumference, how do I know what duct size will it equal to? Also have a dilemma with a section of heating duct that calls for an elbow shaped, but the area is tight and hard to maneuver in, here they had installed the flexible insulated type, but its all smashed and not holding up to where hardly any air is passing, aluminum flexible duct would be perfect but I can't find any thing on line rated for furnace, what would you racommend? Thanks a lot!
@@TaddyDigest Ok, I understand maybe I asked to many questions, but, the main question on how to figure out the size of an already installed duct remained unanswered. I did find a chart that provides the corresponding diameter size by measuring the circumference,so no need to provide it.
I live in a cabin that doesn't have existing ductwork and I plan on installing a heat pump system. What would you recommend for type of duct and sizing for limited access? I do have a full basement with drop down ceiling.
It would be nice if you could do a split system put the air handler in the basement and run the duct above the drop ceiling and do floor vents for the upstairs and FPD registers in the drop ceiling
@@TaddyDigest Yeah I was leaning towards a split system, I'm not overly fond of the mini split wall units. I do have closets that I can run duct through from the basement.
Tad, I have a question for you. I recently bought a townhouse, 1480Sq. FT. House was built in 1993. It's 3 floors. I was looking at my Heat Pump and it's a 2.5T, with 13 supplies and 4 returns. All of the returns do not have duct work. They just vent into the wall. My electric bill is very high. I was wondering if it could be because my Heat Pump unit and duct work wasn't properly installed.
@@TaddyDigest I know. I have been learning from watching you. That's why I questioning it. Also, whey would my return lines have no ductwork or filters?
@10:15 this seems counterintuitive. "cheapest filter you can find" since a good technician will tell you which merv rating your system can handle based upon the square inches of return and the age of your system. Use of the cheapest filters will cause your return ducts and A coil to get full of dust faster, causing you need duct cleaning more often. A dusty full A coil is not a happy A coil.
the duct design and airflow guide? I can send you the guide if you need it please click the join and let me know when you have joined I will give you my email Thanks for watching 👀😀
@@TaddyDigest Hi Taddy, Great info in What size are my ducts video. I’d also appreciate a copy of your Duct Desgn and Airflow calculator slides. Thanks! Bill
Thank you so much for watching definitely click the join button become a member. I'll send you my email tadfuller1@gmail.com and I will send you a duct design and air flow guide Also you can buy a ductulator online I will post the link in the description
Hey I’m looking to replace my ductwork its in the basement.I have carrier 3 ton air handler with static pressure .02, I need to replace my ductwork because I need more headroom.what I have now it’s 26 by 8 where it starts and gets smaller as it gets longer but depth is same 8 inches.I was wondering if there’s possibility to go wider and reduce depth maybe 2inches.Please let me know what size ductwork would be better if replace with wider duct and reduce at least 2 inches in depth.I did talk to couple of duct guys one said 32 by 6 would be ok n other said I should do 38 by 6 or 32 by 7.I’m so confused between all this.please help..Thanks
I have a video about how to use the duculator and size duckwork per ton I also have a member only video that shows you how to do duckwork how to put it together how to lay it out You should check out my playlist
I have a 16” round duct in my closet. First, how can I tell if it’s a duct going to the return, and two, it’s taking up so much space in my closet, how can I change that ?
For the whole video click the link join and become a member Join this channel to get access to perks: ua-cam.com/channels/uMyjTVlkM4xZ5z_eSyoB1w.htmljoin
@@TaddyDigest - sorry to be cryptic. Brazil is a 1985 Terry Gilliam film depicting a dystopian world in which a rebel HVAC engineer is the imagined savior of all that is sensible. The interior of every house and office is littered with oddly rounded round HVAC ducts running everywhere.
I am so happy I found your YT video. My house is 2-story, 1465 sqft,. and is built on a Slab. Therefore, my ductwork is in the wall and ceiling. The explanation for determining the correct size of my ductwork, measuring the return grill, is priceless. Thank you.
I used to work for this fella for a bit. Good guy.
Thank you bro
This and the member only videos are great. Just finished installing a new system that I sized and designed myself. Thanks for sharing so much info.
I'm really glad that you're watching the members only videos
So awesome to hear that it's helping
Take the total CFM of the blower in AC mode, & divide it by the number of runs you will need. Then apportion each run by total sq' per run to find the cfm needed per run. The ductalator will size the run. Then add the branches together to find the feeder size. Too simple? Dial down as far as possible to reduce discharge noise at the registers. I use .5 cfm to size the return air sizes necessary for grille sizes. The bigger the better because return air is not restricted by static pressure loss.
Saw Tad on tiktok... this dude is seriously an HVAC wizard...
thanks brother
you don't have to have the round duct apart to size it. just take a piece of string, wrap around the duct, draw a line with a sharpie across the intersection of the two parts of string, then measure that length. that is the "circumference" of the duct pipe. then you can divide that by pi to get the diameter. if you don't have a pi button on your calculator, dividing by 3.14 will get you close enough to the actual number.
who says you won't need math in the real world? lol
Hey Tad, Can you please do a video on the parts in a duct work and what they are used for? I do apartmen maintenance but never learned about ducts and there parts.
Using .05 static is actually below the recommended ACCA wedge and Manual "D" in recommended rates. Using .05 on a ductulator is not static but friction rate (Rate per 100' of effective length). Duct design should be done after determining available static pressure (ESP - component losses. Manual "D" require the longest critical path (s/a and r/a ) to determine effective length.
That is correct I love to see this
Great knowledge.
You my friend are on the right path
Hi Taddy, thank you , very much for sharing your knowledge! This video is great because solid information from start is well explained. You’re amazing!
Thank you.
Thanks for the videos! I’m a member.
Hey Ronnie Thank You for Subscribing
Tad, I want your notes lol! They are awesome.
Just found your channel and not only do you provide excellent information, but the way you explain things makes it easy to understand. Sadly I found out that my new unit was not running efficiently.... not because of the installer or technician, but because my curiosity. I was extremely surprised, that many HVAC companies do not check airflow, TESP or inspect duct work to make sure the system is running as efficient as it should. Most companies just install the unit and leave. They just want to replace parts, system, charge and leave.
Don't want to judge, but it seems that they don't mind the system return and duct being undersized, because it will cause the system to fail sooner and create more service calls. I heard that there is a saying that if there is not a leak I will make one. Some of these techs do a pressure test for leaks using nitrogen and they might put too much pressure that if there was no leak... it will make one or create more. Changing the subject.... I have been in this house for 14 years and had many issues with a Goodman heat pump unit. Now I know that many of the problems were because of the high static pressure. The techs always blamed the brand for the problems it was having. I now have a new unit, Carrier 3.5 ton Heat pump and my static pressure was .9 W.C. It probably was the same high static pressure with the Goodman and that made the unit fail alot. With the Goodman unit I went through 3 evap coil replacements and it was about $600-800 each time they needed to be replaced. It makes me think that they did not deal with the static pressure, because it brings in the money. I was able to lower the TESP to .66 W.C by making the return larger. I went from a 24x18 return to a 30x24. This carrier unit TESP is .2 and I am at a .66 W.C..
After searching around and watching videos.... I went into the attic to find out my duct work coming out of the supply is 12" and from your video I need an 18". But I am not sure if the 12" ducts coming out would equate to one 18" supply duct. Below is the link to the Flex Duct layout and sizes. I have a total of 13 vents.
i.ibb.co/Ld9kmPM/Flex-Duct-Layout-and-Size.jpg
Hey Danny thank you for watching my videos .
I really appreciate your compliments.
I try my best to relay information so that everybody can understand.
I try not to get too complicated
I have a couple other videos you should check out they are awesome
They teach you about sizing the duckwork and how the duck work should be laid out
I looked at your drawing of your duck work and it looks like its not proportioned properly.
Your main duck size feeding the branches
Can be done a lot better.
The 2 -12" ducks would equal around 800
a 18 inch duct would be around 1400 cfm
The cfm quantities don't match
For example you cannot feed a 6"- 4 branch system that requires about 400 CFM
With a 8" duct that outputs about 200 CFM
Be glad to help you straighten it all out
There are not a lot of companies or HVAC technicians that make these checks in the field because the lack of training and emphasis.
Here is a Video On Sizing
ua-cam.com/video/ynZ_Gmo7FvA/v-deo.html
For full access to the full video please click the join button and become a member.
ua-cam.com/channels/uMyjTVlkM4xZ5z_eSyoB1w.htmljoin
The FULL Video How to size Ductwork
ua-cam.com/video/TKqAzRBIjXQ/v-deo.html
The full video is about 30 minutes long packed full of answers to all your questions on sizing ductwork.
@@TaddyDigest Researching online and diving into the HVAC world... I have learned a couple of things. One is that the system should not be flex only, but of a metal trunk and then flex branching out from it. Second, that the duct system should not split like mine into both directions, because air will flow more in the direction of less restriction causing uneven distribution. Should the systems start at the supply and end at another and not split into two directions coming out of the air handler?
I'll do a live video soon and answer all your questions
@@TaddyDigest Here is a video a took of the attic space and duct system layout. I have been told by others that it is a very bad install? Do I need to throw everything out in the attic and start from scratch? Can I just replace the 12" for two 18" and that should fix the static pressure or do the other ducts need to be re-sized also?
ua-cam.com/video/iInIN89q8GU/v-deo.html
This is great info newly subb. Been seeing your vids pooping up on my feed. Newly acquired home ower, The info are great! Thanks.
your welcome my friend
Wow!! So much great information!! Thank you!
You're welcome. Thank you so much for watching
Hell yeah "1 to 2 inches makes a big difference"!
great advice thanks best video thus far
Thank you Mike Appreciate it Thanks for watching 👀 😀
Hey Tad. New to your channel and I’m impressed on the videos you’ve done. Great explanation to say the least. Unfortunately I’ve got leaks around the takeoffs in the attic duct system and probably have to use some mastic with the brush and tape. Thanks for that tip and others going forward 👍
Welcome aboard!
Don’t use the cheapest filters! It will cause more problems down the road then good. Use a filter that does a little filtration which will give you better air quality and not dirty the system as fast. I recommend using a Merv 5 pleated filter because it’s In the middle, and the majority of furnace can handle the static pressure. Replace monthly!!
Hello Taddy is possible to replace blower motor single speed to another multiple speed the problem is it’s the air very slowly and the system work all the day without stopping but the air is cold. Thanks.
Great advise
Thank You Daniel
Hi Tad, good video. I'm a member. Where I can find the information of the binder you're showing on the video.
Thank you so much for joining and becoming a member
Here's my email tadfuller1@gmail.com
Hello Ted. New to ur channel. I’m home owner also have couple rentals. I’ve quick question in my primary home. I’m thinking about adding additional returns to hot rooms one face the east and other west. Both bedrooms have 8” registers they r about 10-12 feet from main return duck in the walkway. My question is will it help cool down better and faster also if it’s worth the addition ? And last what size should be the return duck size ( same or small ) and return filter housing size ?
Thanks !
I would check and make sure that you don't have thermal loss of some kind.
That run should take care of that room size
If you wish to add a return, add the same size.
Actually there is 4 types of vents! Floor, wall, ceiling, and baseboard vents
I have a ? Can i use either round or rectangle to run from my air handler in my garage to my existing duct work in my attic? Thanks
Of course
@@TaddyDigest Thank you!
The HVAC a company that did my installed put 18” flex duct on a 16” collar. Have you ever seen that?
Sir I have seen that
@@TaddyDigest what do you think of it? Does it still make a fairly leakproof connection?
It's better to use a reducer an 18 to 16" reducer
I would definitely check it to make sure it sealed properly
Very helpful.. Thanks for that. QUESTION: I have a flexible duct running through my attic that was installed by a professional HVAC company years ago. One room in the house has very restricted air flow. I noticed the flex duct that's feeding that room makes a ridiculously hard U-turn into that room's register. It's a very short length near the end of a trunk line that begins it's U-turn right out of the side of the trunk and into the register. I'm thinking of cutting that ductwork, then splicing enough of a length of the same duct material to create a more gradual bend into that register. I know the less length, the better the airflow but this is situated so that I will need to add 10' - 15' or more feet to do this. Any problem in general doing it this way?
Hi Teddy. I'm new to your channel and I like it. My house is an old house, built in 1913, - I think. Anyways, I noticed, according with your teachings that the ductwork it's all wrong. We have like a 6 inches rigid pipes all over the place. Some vents have a lot of air while other very little. The ones in the upper floor get very little and the A/C has to run longer to cool it down. The house size is 3,000 sf and has a 5 Ton split Trane Unit. But 20-inch ducts for all the vents seems way too big. Advise please!
I have a duct work diy Video you should check out I also have a duct work sizing video too.
I you want me to help you 1 on 1 I can do face time I do a duct work consultation for you Just let me know
ua-cam.com/video/ynZ_Gmo7FvA/v-deo.html Here is the ductwork sizing video
You can Gain full access to the full video click the join button and become a member.
ua-cam.com/channels/uMyjTVlkM4xZ5z_eSyoB1w.htmljoin
The FULL Video How to size Ductwork
ua-cam.com/video/TKqAzRBIjXQ/v-deo.html
The full video is about 30 minutes long packed full of answers to all your questions on sizing ductwork.
All of my ductwork is round 8 inch ductwork but all the air returns have a 16x4 duct and one of the air returns in the hallway is bigger than the duct and there's only half of the vent getting air
Nice
@@TaddyDigest I mean it's a nice system in my house but it's over 30 years old and it barely even has enough air flow to blow hard through the vents
I am a brand new subscriber and was researching about how to change hvac duck work because i found that i have a huge hole right after the connection to the machine outside. Aside from what i am researching, you advised to use the cheaper filters but i thought it was good to catch the dust particles and allergens plus i thought it keeps the machine cleaner. Please educate me! I live in an old mobile home and have major air leaking under the home. During the summer it actually feels better under the home than inside the home 😭
I love your "I'll keep you cool, if you let me!" Slogan
Thank you for Joining
I want to help you get your ductwork right
Here is a video I think will help you
Also I have a air flow and duct design guide I am going to send you
Let me know if you have any questions
ua-cam.com/video/p5KRf2LzM3s/v-deo.html
Awesome video. Supe clear, specially for a diy er. Quick question. I want to add a return air in my basement. After they finished it they only added 2 feed vents. Pretty chilly down down there. Is the size of the return air piping super critical? Lennox G50UH-48c-110-04
For adding a return downstairs there are a few things to consider I will do a video about it in a few weeks to answer your question and tag you in it
I've witnessed bad experiences using "rules of thumb". Generalizing about how many and what size grills and about downsizing by thirds are a real problem. ALWAYS calculate the BTUs required for each room and size accordingly. Large rooms may need a 10 and standard bathrooms are almost always a five. Put your AC where it is needed, don't waste it. ALWAYS start with the last outlet and increase size as you add more outlets until you reach the supply plenum. You will have a naturally balanced system. Air flow sensors only identify problems. Better to design it right before you start installation.
One more thing. Sizing your main supply by the unit size only works if you are doing a linear system. IMO units should be placed centrally allowing shorter runs and less heat loss or gain.
Do you still do one on one tutoring. I want to install my own ductwork at my house.
yes
@TaddyDigest how can I contact you?
@@TaddyDigest how could I reach you?
So the return grill correlates to the return size with the ductulator right? like 3 tons needs a 20x30 return grill with a 16" pipe?
yes absolutely
@@TaddyDigest what's a popular return grill size for a 5 ton unit? I know it has to be 1000 Sq inches, but what's a popular grill size for that?
2 Twenty by twenty five
@@TaddyDigest SSo each would have a 22" duct? So when you join them to the air handler? Would that trunk also be 22" or bigger?
Hey man, need help with my 2Ton new system. I just became a member!
I'm here to help
Thank you for joining my brother
Here's my email
tadfuller1@gmail.com
Thank you!!! ❤
Hi. I do have 1800 sqft ranch style house. What size electric furnace I need and what size flexible duct I need. The furnace are going to be in the middle of the ranch.
Depends on insulation
And also if you have any Vaulted ceilings
Ceiling is drywall it’s 8ft long from the ground. the attic and wall all have insulation
What kind of insulation foam or standard insulation
It is the loose kind in the attic
3 ton
Hey brother, I am having some issue with a carrier heat pump central air system, the condenser fan is spinning the opposite way. It shows 3 amber blings but no code is listed in the error code list! It’s about 13 years old
bad capacitor or motor
@@TaddyDigest thank you brother! I changed the cap but it still spins back wards for 3 mins and then stops and spins clockwise for a min and then shut off! In about 10 to15 mins it does the same thing again. I have been trying to get in touch with the tech support at carrier but afte 10 hrs in total on hold have not gotten through yet!
thank you Bro really you Rda man
Thank you my friend
Thanks I'm curious about a number of things -
I've hear round ductwork is quieter. I usually see a mixture for some reason though.
With HUGE open floorplans that include kitchens and other rooms, how do you deal with a zone that would probably want multiple CFM needs.
Do people with 5 ton units often have two main lines - e.g. 2 16 ton pipes or just do 20-22" and split everything off it.
Depends on the layout of the house and where the and where the furnace or air handler would be located if you had a basement
I will do a video tomorrow of a house with a basement and show you how we did the duckwork
Let me know all your questions I'll try to answer some in the video
@@TaddyDigest do you have videos how to explain exactly the duck sizing and how many registers to have per room ,some technical use 1 cfm per square,like if a room it’s 100 sf a 6 inch round duck does the Job .....
what size of duct do i need for 25 ton ac unit to supply a 1,332 square foot floor area with 4 meter height.
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I just bought a house and I have a 3.5 Ton AC unit on top of my 100k BTU furnace. The Fan that is in the furnace is a 3/4 hp 2320 CFM on high. The duct sizes that come out of the furnace is (2) square ducts. one of them is sized a 14x8 and the other a 19x8. According to a field duct sizing chart is it completely under cfm. Now my fan is producing 2320 CFM but my unit is 3.5 tons. First are my ducts undersized for my system and do i go off the CFM of the fan or the AC unit which would put it around 1400 CFM? In the summer my AC cannot keep up with the outside heat. Some vents barely any air passes through them I feel like they do not produce enough airflow.
Hey Thomas I can help you
Join become a member and then send me an email at tadfuller1@gmail.com
Joe homeowner here, i have 3 ton unit with one return 14x30 Filter. Is it good enough?
Or i need couple of more returns on the other side of the house?
14 by 30 is a little shy of 600 in²
I would do another I would do another 12 by 12 return A good place would be a master bedroom or addition
@@TaddyDigest i was thinking off doing 2 12x12 . One in master bedroom and one in living/dining area. Is there something as too many returns?
Awesome, where can I buy this book sir?
Click the join button become a member and I will send you the guide
Make sure you are signed in to your UA-cam account
Join button is beside subscribe
Send me an email after you let me know you joined I will send you my email
Hey, where can i buy that manual?
What manual
Let me know
Your videos are really helpful! keep them coming! Could you tell me how do i measure a round heating duct after is installed? I need to move some ducts and need to buy extra elbows etc, I don't want to take it apart to measure it until I have the parts at home. If I measure the circumference, how do I know what duct size will it equal to? Also have a dilemma with a section of heating duct that calls for an elbow shaped, but the area is tight and hard to maneuver in, here they had installed the flexible insulated type, but its all smashed and not holding up to where hardly any air is passing, aluminum flexible duct would be perfect but I can't find any thing on line rated for furnace, what would you racommend? Thanks a lot!
thank you my friend
@@TaddyDigest Ok, I understand maybe I asked to many questions, but, the main question on how to figure out the size of an already installed duct remained unanswered. I did find a chart that provides the corresponding diameter size by measuring the circumference,so no need to provide it.
I live in a cabin that doesn't have existing ductwork and I plan on installing a heat pump system. What would you recommend for type of duct and sizing for limited access? I do have a full basement with drop down ceiling.
I would do ductless
check out www.samsunghvac.com
It would be nice if you could do a split system put the air handler in the basement and run the duct above the drop ceiling and do floor vents for the upstairs and FPD registers in the drop ceiling
@@TaddyDigest Yeah I was leaning towards a split system, I'm not overly fond of the mini split wall units. I do have closets that I can run duct through from the basement.
Tad, I have a question for you. I recently bought a townhouse, 1480Sq. FT. House was built in 1993. It's 3 floors. I was looking at my Heat Pump and it's a 2.5T, with 13 supplies and 4 returns. All of the returns do not have duct work. They just vent into the wall. My electric bill is very high. I was wondering if it could be because my Heat Pump unit and duct work wasn't properly installed.
Hey John
Thank you so much for being
Here is my email tadfuller1@gmail.com
Feel free to send me pictures I will review
What pictures do you need? I want to make sure I get the correct photos for you. Plus, I'm wondering if the 2.5 T is the correct size
2 and a 1/2 t we'll do 1500 ft²
2 and a 1/2 t will do 10 - 6" vents
@@TaddyDigest I know. I have been learning from watching you. That's why I questioning it. Also, whey would my return lines have no ductwork or filters?
I have 13-6" vents
@10:15 this seems counterintuitive. "cheapest filter you can find" since a good technician will tell you which merv rating your system can handle based upon the square inches of return and the age of your system. Use of the cheapest filters will cause your return ducts and A coil to get full of dust faster, causing you need duct cleaning more often. A dusty full A coil is not a happy A coil.
Doesn't the liner retain mold and mildew
it can if the space has either
I like that manual is it Attainable?
I will make a members only and get you a way to get it
@@TaddyDigest I assume you mean Patreon I tried that link and I get a 404 error.
Hi Taddy, where can I print of those slides in that binder? It would be helpful! Thank you!
the duct design and airflow guide?
I can send you the guide if you need it
please click the join and let me know when you have joined I will give you my email
Thanks for watching 👀😀
@@TaddyDigest Yes! Thank you for your quick reply. I joined. You are a really great teacher, keep it up!
@@TaddyDigest Hi Taddy, Great info in What size are my ducts video. I’d also appreciate a copy of your Duct Desgn and Airflow calculator slides. Thanks! Bill
Thank you so much for watching definitely click the join button become a member.
I'll send you my email tadfuller1@gmail.com and I will send you a duct design and air flow guide
Also you can buy a ductulator online I will post the link in the description
Hey I’m looking to replace my ductwork its in the basement.I have carrier 3 ton air handler with static pressure .02, I need to replace my ductwork because I need more headroom.what I have now it’s 26 by 8 where it starts and gets smaller as it gets longer but depth is same 8 inches.I was wondering if there’s possibility to go wider and reduce depth maybe 2inches.Please let me know what size ductwork would be better if replace with wider duct and reduce at least 2 inches in depth.I did talk to couple of duct guys one said 32 by 6 would be ok n other said I should do 38 by 6 or 32 by 7.I’m so confused between all this.please help..Thanks
I have a video about how to use the duculator and size duckwork per ton
I also have a member only video that shows you how to do duckwork how to put it together how to lay it out
You should check out my playlist
Learn how to read a ductulator and you will find your answer I have a free video that will help
6 x 40 at least
@@TaddyDigest Ok Thanks for everything I will definitely check that out.👍
I have a 16” round duct in my closet. First, how can I tell if it’s a duct going to the return, and two, it’s taking up so much space in my closet, how can I change that ?
use airflow to tell you which duct is which
Return duct has negative pressure and supply has positive
Use a piece of paper or something like a ribbon
I got 12 inchs for a 4 ton system... guess someone didn't set it up right
4 ton needs minimum 18 inch duct
@@TaddyDigest 18-inch all over the place or just the main ducts, I mean, the ones that came out of the unit?
I've got a video on duckwork and sizing
Should check it out
It's on my playlist
I'll send you the link 😉
Ductwork Sizing Video
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Obviously he's no fan of 'Brazil'
Hi John I don't know what you mean
Thank you for watching the video my friend hope you have a blessed day
@@TaddyDigest - sorry to be cryptic. Brazil is a 1985 Terry Gilliam film depicting a dystopian world in which a rebel HVAC engineer is the imagined savior of all that is sensible. The interior of every house and office is littered with oddly rounded round HVAC ducts running everywhere.
Very Cool Thank you for sharing this knowledge with me That's funny 😁
What is a real technician
A real technician We'll find the problem they will figure it out
They will go above beyond to take care of the customer
They are good communicators
Yuo due good
NONE of your links work dude.
crap
Not that difficult for someone who does this.
DUCT BUTTER DOESNT TASTE GOOD
😆 😂 😆
Send me that binder by e-mail 😉
you like that
Are you talking about the airflow and duct design
@@TaddyDigest yes sir, looks like you got a nice binder full of good information
Yes sir you are correct
might I do a video and have a giveaway or do a perk of being a member with that information soon per Daniel
@@TaddyDigest no prob, I'm steps ahead already thanks to 7 weeks to 7 figures course.
Nice video, Taddy. I agree with Daniel. Scan that binder to a file and send us a link. Looked super interesting. I appreciate all the videos you post.
Which one do I join to get your email
level 1
Thanks
Hi Teddy, I joined your channel. What’s your email?
Hey thank you Gene 😊 Email is tadfuller1@gmail.com