I just fully serviced the 2006 V Star 1100 Classic with 9500 miles on it. Under hard acceleration I noticed the clutch slightly slipping. I immediately adjusted the clutch according to factory specs . The lower adjustment which sets the proper freeplay on the clutch pushrod had never been adjusted since new and actually was preveenting the clutch from completely engaging. After that adjustment then adjusted the cable freeplay up on the clutch lever which is 5mm or the with of a nickel. Clutch performs perfect now. One other note only use the factory recommended oil. DO NOT use motor oil for diesel engines. Oil must be for engines with internal wet clutches.
I would go to the bottom end of the clutch cable and adjust it there if you can’t get proper adjustments at the lever. That’s according to the repair manual on these bikes. But you need tools to do this adjustment. I’ve owned this particular bike for 20 yrs. I also bought the complete repair and rebuild manual exclusively for this bike. Try and get the adjustment at the bottom after you remove the casing, it’s not very complicated, good luck
Turns out the shop was putting the wrong clutch in. The specs were just barely off so the clutch was slipping too much. Got the OEM clutch in and its been going strong for thousands of more miles!
Mine did that before. Had to adjust it at the casing. I had the same amount of screw out at handle controls. I screwed it all the way in to make it tight then adjusted at the casing and BAM clutch was nice and tight
Mine did the sane thing. I just got a barnett that i will be putting in tomorrow for round #3. Hopefully it will work out. Both of my other ones didn't even make it 20 miles 🤷♂️
Hi I’ve ran Yamaha vstars 650 an 1100 and one I had 78k on with Yamalube 20 50 original clutch.and 650 142k original clutch stator with running 20 50 Yamaha lube non synthetic
I've had this problem and after speaking with the mechanic I was told NOT to follow the manual recommendations for clutch adjustment. If there is any tension on the clutch when the lever is disengaged it will heat the disks and cause them to slip and burn out quick. That is typically the problem.
Thanks for the comment. My issue was the after market clutch kit the mechanic installed did not have the same tolerances as the OEM. Finally put a Yamaha clutch in and it's been working ever since!
Stock diaphragm clutch spring is garbage.upgrade to barnett spring clutch kit. Works waaaay better and proper clutch adjustment and you should be back on the road. My xvs clutch would always slip under acceleration. Swapped clutch springs and now grabs strong 😁
Thanks! The mechanic managed to figure the problem. The clutch kits they were getting had plates that were too thin, so the spring was fully extended even with no clutch engaged. So they constantly were slipping, that's why it burned out in less than 100 miles. It's back now and so far over 200 miles. The Clutch feels strong and doesn't slip at all as it used to when I give it full throttle at high speeds. IF it happens again, I hope I'm done with this mess, I'll look into the Barnett Spring Cutch Kit. ua-cam.com/video/wRpbRYM1vo0/v-deo.html
👍 that's good to hear. Last 2 cents. Clutch isn't somewhere you want to skimp. Consensus is oem yamaha is hard to beat then ebc. Word is oem steel plates can be re used several times, where as aftermarket usually show signs of wear.
Its stock but its been modified. The previous owner cut the ends off to make the tailpipes shorter. I think it gives it a deeper sound than your typical V-Star.
I dont see where anyone has identified why the clutch went out, so I'll give it a go. The adjustment on the clutch lever is for free play before the lever starts to put tension on the cable. The actual tension adjustment is at the other end of the cable and requires a 10mm wrench. There must have been too much tension in the cable causing the clutch to slip and over heat.
We found out the clutch plates were slightly thinner than the yamaha oem parts. Mechanic put on some oem and its been fine ever since. Thanks for the feedback and comment!
May I went through the same exact fucking thing on my motorcycle this past weekend my clutch burn out what was the procedure that you had to go through to get yours fixed ?
I kept taking it back to the shop. They discovered the aftermarket clutch has tolerances that were fractions of millimeters smaller than the OEM Yamaha clutch. So they put the OEM and its been going strong ever since!
Harley guy I'm guessing? Only major issues I've had with mine is the clutch, which has had no more issues, and the starter clutch, which is a known issue for this model. But got those changed out now, I should be good to go! Yamaha's are some of the most reliable bikes out there typically.
Sounds like you bought some shitty bikes no offense. I'll save my money and buy a quality Japanese bike, hell even a Chinese bike. You gotta be rich, old or stupid to buy a harley today. Boomers just might be the dumbest generation in American history.
@@thechessclub8527 I watched this video, and then started reading the coments which I shouldn't have. Rode Harleys from 1965 when I bought my first one for $300.00 until 2001 which is after I had purchased my last one which was a 1999 Road King. I'm not saying that many of the HD's I owned were super reliable, but were OK as long as you have the knowledge to work on them. The 99 RK I owned for 16 months, and was in the shop being repaired for something for 7 months of that time. The last trip I took on the RK was the worst. 250 miles from home the electrical harness burned out, and I had to trailer the bike back to the dealer. While I was waiting again for the bike to get repaired, out of warranty, I found a 1999 Yamaha Roadstar for sale with 10000 miles on it. I road the bike and bought it that day, I put 171,000 trouble free miles on the bike. I now own a 2006 Roadstar and a 2005 Vstar 1100 which is a project bike.
I just fully serviced the 2006 V Star 1100 Classic with 9500 miles on it.
Under hard acceleration I noticed the clutch slightly slipping.
I immediately adjusted the clutch according to factory specs .
The lower adjustment which sets the proper freeplay on the clutch pushrod had never been adjusted since new and actually was preveenting the clutch from completely engaging.
After that adjustment then adjusted the cable freeplay up on the clutch lever which is 5mm or the with of a nickel.
Clutch performs perfect now.
One other note only use the factory recommended oil.
DO NOT use motor oil for diesel engines.
Oil must be for engines with internal wet clutches.
Bought mine used and had the same issue. Had the clutch completely replaced and rides great. If it ever happens again i'll upgrade to Barnett
I would go to the bottom end of the clutch cable and adjust it there if you can’t get proper adjustments at the lever. That’s according to the repair manual on these bikes. But you need tools to do this adjustment. I’ve owned this particular bike for 20 yrs. I also bought the complete repair and rebuild manual exclusively for this bike. Try and get the adjustment at the bottom after you remove the casing, it’s not very complicated, good luck
Turns out the shop was putting the wrong clutch in. The specs were just barely off so the clutch was slipping too much. Got the OEM clutch in and its been going strong for thousands of more miles!
Mine did that before. Had to adjust it at the casing. I had the same amount of screw out at handle controls. I screwed it all the way in to make it tight then adjusted at the casing and BAM clutch was nice and tight
So far so good on clutch #3! Its made it over the 100 mile mark so far! I posted a new video about what the mechanic explained to me.
Can y send the video what the makanik say
Mine did the sane thing. I just got a barnett that i will be putting in tomorrow for round #3. Hopefully it will work out. Both of my other ones didn't even make it 20 miles 🤷♂️
If your using the wrong spec oil it will cause the clutch to slip. My 04 classic has the original clutch and no slippage
I own 2 Yamaha vstar 1100 classic. Good bikes.
Hi I’ve ran Yamaha vstars 650 an 1100 and one I had 78k on with Yamalube 20 50 original clutch.and 650 142k original clutch stator with running 20 50 Yamaha lube non synthetic
Thanks for the info!
I've had this problem and after speaking with the mechanic I was told NOT to follow the manual recommendations for clutch adjustment. If there is any tension on the clutch when the lever is disengaged it will heat the disks and cause them to slip and burn out quick. That is typically the problem.
Thanks for the comment. My issue was the after market clutch kit the mechanic installed did not have the same tolerances as the OEM. Finally put a Yamaha clutch in and it's been working ever since!
I keep burning my leg on the exhaust pipe ! 💥
Thats why I wear chaps or pants every time I ride! I like keeping my skin on my body!
@@tubabilly yeah I'm going to be getting a pair of those ! 👇😉
Only had the bike now for 10 days ! 👇🤠👍
My skin is safe. But I burnt two of my pajamas. Thanks for sharing. I thought it's only my xvs1100 fault or something
Man that don’t feel good I got burned two times by my 1100
Stock diaphragm clutch spring is garbage.upgrade to barnett spring clutch kit. Works waaaay better and proper clutch adjustment and you should be back on the road. My xvs clutch would always slip under acceleration. Swapped clutch springs and now grabs strong 😁
Thanks! The mechanic managed to figure the problem. The clutch kits they were getting had plates that were too thin, so the spring was fully extended even with no clutch engaged. So they constantly were slipping, that's why it burned out in less than 100 miles. It's back now and so far over 200 miles. The Clutch feels strong and doesn't slip at all as it used to when I give it full throttle at high speeds. IF it happens again, I hope I'm done with this mess, I'll look into the Barnett Spring Cutch Kit. ua-cam.com/video/wRpbRYM1vo0/v-deo.html
👍 that's good to hear. Last 2 cents. Clutch isn't somewhere you want to skimp. Consensus is oem yamaha is hard to beat then ebc. Word is oem steel plates can be re used several times, where as aftermarket usually show signs of wear.
is that stock exhaust? sounds good
Its stock but its been modified. The previous owner cut the ends off to make the tailpipes shorter. I think it gives it a deeper sound than your typical V-Star.
I dont see where anyone has identified why the clutch went out, so I'll give it a go. The adjustment on the clutch lever is for free play before the lever starts to put tension on the cable. The actual tension adjustment is at the other end of the cable and requires a 10mm wrench. There must have been too much tension in the cable causing the clutch to slip and over heat.
We found out the clutch plates were slightly thinner than the yamaha oem parts. Mechanic put on some oem and its been fine ever since. Thanks for the feedback and comment!
@@tubabilly Good deal. Happy riding.
The aftermarket clutch plates sound more plausible. If the steels or steel plates aren't beefed up from OEM then you won't have the right clearance.
May I went through the same exact fucking thing on my motorcycle this past weekend my clutch burn out what was the procedure that you had to go through to get yours fixed ?
I kept taking it back to the shop. They discovered the aftermarket clutch has tolerances that were fractions of millimeters smaller than the OEM Yamaha clutch. So they put the OEM and its been going strong ever since!
Make sure the oil u r using Is JASO approved oil ( wet clutch oil) if u use car oil u will ruin the clutch
Adjust it at the motor left side of the bike then the lever ...100% the problem
We found the issue was the clutch the shop was putting in was slightly off the OEM specs. Put the OEM clutch kit in and no issues since!
Yamaha . I've owned a few. Never again. PoS.
Harley guy I'm guessing? Only major issues I've had with mine is the clutch, which has had no more issues, and the starter clutch, which is a known issue for this model. But got those changed out now, I should be good to go! Yamaha's are some of the most reliable bikes out there typically.
Sounds like you bought some shitty bikes no offense. I'll save my money and buy a quality Japanese bike, hell even a Chinese bike. You gotta be rich, old or stupid to buy a harley today. Boomers just might be the dumbest generation in American history.
@@thechessclub8527 I watched this video, and then started reading the coments which I shouldn't have. Rode Harleys from 1965 when I bought my first one for $300.00 until 2001 which is after I had purchased my last one which was a 1999 Road King. I'm not saying that many of the HD's I owned were super reliable, but were OK as long as you have the knowledge to work on them. The 99 RK I owned for 16 months, and was in the shop being repaired for something for 7 months of that time. The last trip I took on the RK was the worst. 250 miles from home the electrical harness burned out, and I had to trailer the bike back to the dealer. While I was waiting again for the bike to get repaired, out of warranty, I found a 1999 Yamaha Roadstar for sale with 10000 miles on it. I road the bike and bought it that day, I put 171,000 trouble free miles on the bike. I now own a 2006 Roadstar and a 2005 Vstar 1100 which is a project bike.