Watch Case - Machining a Prototype, Part 1
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- 3D printed in stainless steel and CNC milled. In this part, I mill the top and bottom of the watch case, with more videos in the future.
More information: www.analog-lab...
Other videos related to making this watch:
* Using Inside Diameter Clamps: • Using Inside Diameter ...
* Tapping Tiny Holes in 316 Stainless Steel: • Tapping Tiny Holes in ...
* Dissolving a Broken Tap: • Dissolving a Broken Tap
Wow this is nice to learn. I have a virtual mill that's arriving Monday. I only have a couple fixtures that have already arrived but this will be good in helping me decide what else I might need. I'll probably end up putting a cnc kit on after I do some manual stuff. This is mostly what I want to use it for. I'll definitely be spending probably most of the year learning but it's going to be worth it just being able to make everything in my own home will be amazing to me. Idk why this is so amazing to me.
Awesome project! Very challenging workholding and tool path work!
Thanks!
Great job sir
Looks tricky! Thanks for the great video
Great job John. Proof it's all about set up and fixture to keep alignment for repeatable position when the part needs to be flipped back and forth.
If you could set up on your 4th axis secured from the ends?
I was thinking abouot the same. The 3D printed model could have mounting features extending from the 4 tabs. That way you could run all the work in 4th Axis and have access from both sides.
I tried my best to think about how I could use the 4th. But it would not work at all for the internal or conventional 3 axis type machining, which is the majority of the machining. I will be using the 4th in the next video. A 5 axis machine could do all this work with just two setups instead of three. The issue is that I need to mill details on the top (including inside features), the bottom (including inside features and holes), and the sides.
@@JohnSL John I will e-mail you with a picture of what I have in mind.
Ah, I see what you mean now. That's an interesting idea. As you point out, that would allow a single fixture for milling everything. That's a very interesting suggestion.
Very nice work!
Very detailed video, good job!
Thank you!
After doing this, do you think it might have been easier/better to start with a solid block rather than a 3D printed approximation?
The milling to get the external texture would likely require a very long time because of all the details. So I believe starting with a 3D printed shell is going to cost less overall.
Nice work. Tiny milling cutters and I don't play well together. You seem to have conquered that frontier.
I broke a lot of miniature end mills before I started to use GWizard and set the slider to about 20%. Since then I've only broken end mills when I made a mistake. And I continue to make mistakes.
I would be terrified to work on this without a few extra 3D prints in case I screw up. The watch is beautiful! It would be cool if the individual circular segments on the watch face could light up in succession in different colors throughout the day. It can be done with tiny RGB LEDs, a diffuser and a micro rechargeable battery.
They sent me 10 cases and 8 backs, and I needed to delivery 6. So I did screw up a few, but had enough so I could delivery the 6. One of them is for me, and I'll be getting it back very soon.
Great video 👍John that was a big step up and scary project and Stefan didn't get to make a video 🤭
I would certainly have enjoyed watching Stefan do this project. But not as much as doing it myself. Yes, it was stressful at times, but I leaned so much and it's not scary or stressful with my newly acquired skills and knowledge.
@@JohnSL And we all learned about working with stainless and tiny thread's
Great video John, it is exciting to follow the process. Can’t wait for the next one.
Wow John, that is a project I would not have had the guts to tackle. Nice job!
Thanks Pete. This is one of those projects where I was definitely nervous. But I'm so glad I did this because of what I learned.
My post has an option for "Write tool list", you might want to find/add that to yours so you don't have to do the manual nc blocks. Looks easy to edit to only do tool numbers higher than you want.
Thanks. I should have clarified that I am also using the list output by fusion, but it doesn't always have details I need. For example, it shows the 1mm drill as something like 0.039" drill. So using the comments allows me to be more specific about which tool.
good video johnsl
Great job! I learn a lot with your videos. Today I learn two trick in Fusion 360 as well as dissolving a tap! please talk a bit about the speed of machining stainless. too slow will harden material and wear tool. Too fast will break the tool. I follow you since your Taigmach project. I started with Taig but I settled with making a fourth axis for my needs as you can see in my video. I sometime have a HASSTAIG envy but I take a glass of water and it pass...
Thanks. I mostly used GWizard for the feeds and speeds calculations where I selected stainless steel as the material. It hasn't failed me. I've put making a video about this in my backlog of future videos to make.
any details on the 4th setup? vise, mounting block etc
Yes. Here is a previous video I did on the vise: ua-cam.com/video/PAt4PEej3qk/v-deo.html. And then making my first part with the 4th axis: ua-cam.com/video/UvxmBQPKU1w/v-deo.html
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If it goes into production, will it be investment cast?
They will be 3D printed and CNC machined. Their web site says available in April. The process to get there will also be interesting.
@@JohnSL I had the impression that metal 3D printing was pretty expensive & therefore only really good for prototyping but I guess that's not necessarily the case (haha) for parts like these.
I don't know their cost structure, but they've factored the cost of 3D printing into that.
You have a 4th axis sat right there, this screams 4th work to me,
The 4th axis is horizontal but most of the machining requires the part to be vertically oriented.
As Bob pointed out below, the milling is mostly vertical, so a 4th doesn't help, except for the sides (stem and strap clip holes).