Hi Dave Thanks for your responses well I have another one I see on your fount suspension you have tr4 upper a-arms and what looks to be revingtons adjustable mounts you have what appears tobe jag ball joints and caster shims are you also running tr4 3 degree trunnions? also are you running revingtons steering arms to correct the steering geometry ? I will also be running the stock worm and peg steering box. Mike
Yes, I run the later arms and the Revington fulcrum pin. That pin is wider/longer than the stock pin and allows use of the standard TR4-TR6 ball joint with caster spacers. The Jag ball joint is good when the standard pin is used. Yes, the 3 degree trunnion is used. I'm not using the longer steering arms...yet.
Hi Dave I see in your build vids you did some reinforcement on the frame guests here and there now that you have raced the car do you think it was enough? I have the book "how to improve the triumph tr2-4 and they were showing big plates covering the x on both sides of the center box Iam rally prepping my tr and I was looking to do that in you opinion is that too much for fast road?
I think my frame mods are more than enough for any off-road performance use. I too gathered info from books and some from few trusted Triumph experts. You'd have to pause and study the frame shots for a while to see most of the strengthening improvements. A number of them are not obvious and some are not detectable at all. I only added small triangular gussets at the outer attachment point of the cross member. I think most of the strengthening and safety comes from the roll cage.
ya you have a extensive cage in that car at most I will have a 4 point and a lateral bar this car is just for fun maybe a auto cross here and there. ya knowing the frame I have been looking close at yours I used to build cages for cars up here mostly for ice racing I have never rolled one but one day I did stand one up on its grill did a pirouette landed on my wheels grabbed a gear and kept on racing.
Hi Dave I enjoy watching your racing vids I use to race up here in Alaska but there just isn't anymore sports car racing here. I have a question Iam restoring a 1955 TR3 and Iam rally prepping it on your rear end are you using some type of panhard rod so far I cant find anything of guys doing that to these TRs. check out my channel to see my car. Mike
Hi Mike, The rear suspension on my TR is stock with no additions other than leaf spring mount up-grades. The springs have been de-arched 1 inch, but they are original from the factory. One other detail about the springs is that I tightened the spring clamps and welded a strap across to completely wrap them. This helps to limit lateral movement. A panhard bar can be good, but a Watts linkage system is best. Anti-tramp or traction type bars are good too. If I add more power I might address other improvements.
thanks Dave Iam rally prepping my 1955 TR3 and one of the things I been reading is the TR3 has better handling without rear sway bars or panhard rods. Iam looking to add a second main leaf to my stock springs and doing the spring mount beef up. I agree with the watts setup but its costly and Iam looking just for hot street use from time to time oh and my engine is just mildly up-graded it will have 87mm pistons and a mild cam the carbs are stock. I use to race up here in Alaska but there no more races to run in there just not enough people that are into it. you haven't lived till you run a 100mph on glare ice with super studs in your tires.
Hi Dave
Thanks for your responses well I have another one I see on your fount suspension you have tr4 upper a-arms and what looks to be revingtons adjustable mounts you have what appears tobe jag ball joints and caster shims are you also running tr4 3 degree trunnions? also are you running revingtons steering arms to correct the steering geometry ? I will also be running the stock worm and peg steering box.
Mike
Yes, I run the later arms and the Revington fulcrum pin. That pin is wider/longer than the stock pin and allows use of the standard TR4-TR6 ball joint with caster spacers. The Jag ball joint is good when the standard pin is used. Yes, the 3 degree trunnion is used. I'm not using the longer steering arms...yet.
Hi Dave I see in your build vids you did some reinforcement on the frame guests here and there now that you have raced the car do you think it was enough? I have the book "how to improve the triumph tr2-4 and they were showing big plates covering the x on both sides of the center box Iam rally prepping my tr and I was looking to do that in you opinion is that too much for fast road?
I think my frame mods are more than enough for any off-road performance use. I too gathered info from books and some from few trusted Triumph experts. You'd have to pause and study the frame shots for a while to see most of the strengthening improvements. A number of them are not obvious and some are not detectable at all. I only added small triangular gussets at the outer attachment point of the cross member. I think most of the strengthening and safety comes from the roll cage.
ya you have a extensive cage in that car at most I will have a 4 point and a lateral bar this car is just for fun maybe a auto cross here and there. ya knowing the frame I have been looking close at yours I used to build cages for cars up here mostly for ice racing I have never rolled one but one day I did stand one up on its grill did a pirouette landed on my wheels grabbed a gear and kept on racing.
Hi Dave I enjoy watching your racing vids I use to race up here in Alaska but there just isn't anymore sports car racing here. I have a question Iam restoring a 1955 TR3 and Iam rally prepping it on your rear end are you using some type of panhard rod so far I cant find anything of guys doing that to these TRs. check out my channel to see my car. Mike
Hi Mike, The rear suspension on my TR is stock with no additions other than leaf spring mount up-grades. The springs have been de-arched 1 inch, but they are original from the factory. One other detail about the springs is that I tightened the spring clamps and welded a strap across to completely wrap them. This helps to limit lateral movement. A panhard bar can be good, but a Watts linkage system is best. Anti-tramp or traction type bars are good too. If I add more power I might address other improvements.
thanks Dave Iam rally prepping my 1955 TR3 and one of the things I been reading is the TR3 has better handling without rear sway bars or panhard rods. Iam looking to add a second main leaf to my stock springs and doing the spring mount beef up. I agree with the watts setup but its costly and Iam looking just for hot street use from time to time oh and my engine is just mildly up-graded it will have 87mm pistons and a mild cam the carbs are stock.
I use to race up here in Alaska but there no more races to run in there just not enough people that are into it. you haven't lived till you run a 100mph on glare ice with super studs in your tires.