This is amazing! I've been subscribed to your channel for a while now and I love your content. You're very humble in your skills but they are extraordinary, in my opinion. Congratulations on a fine looking pistol.
Of all your work, this is the one I admire the most. I have been making my own 1911-A1’s from scratch since 1992, and I freely admit your work is more advanced than mine.
I just have to say that I am very impressed with your work, your detail and the fact that you still respond to comments on a2 year old video. Cudos man. I'm subscribed for sure now!
You sir, fascinate, yet freak me out. How one guy's noggin holds THAT much know how AND the physical dexterity-artistry to pull this whole thing off is nothing short of mind blowing! 99% of these viewers have no clue as to the overall epic feat that completing this in it's entirety is. Extremely impressive! Please show us the tutorial when you build and launch your lunar lander...or...did I miss that already?
MV I love it how you start some videos with describing "the mistake you already made before filming" and how it works out okay in the end. It shows you have the scientific mindset to go after perfection. You're bringing me closer to adding a new aspect to my workshop & laboratory hobbies... like if I don't have enough hobbies yet :-)
Mosin, you inspired me so much, that I am going on my 4th build. It is a hybrid, 3 inch 9mm on a full size ss railed frame that will be with bobtail mainspring housing. AWESOME WORK BROTHER!!!
I watched all of your videos, you are truly amazing, and very diligent besides you deeply understand what you are doing, I got a lot of knowledge from you, thanks
hey mosin, long time subscriber. I have watched every 1911/2011 vid you have at least once. (in most cases several times) you inspired me to build my own, and without your vids I would have been lost. thanks to you I have built 2 and many more to come. I just wanted to thank you for your wonderful and informative videos. I would never have found the love for building I have without you. sincerely.. thank you. keep being awesome:)
Kelcy Weed thank you very much. I am glad I could help. Isn't building them just fun? good luck with all your projects. are you sharing the progress somewhere?
MosinVirus I don't know what it is about it that makes it so captivating. but I absolutely love it. however, I'm not filming or taking pictures of progress, not to sound like I'm brown nosing, but your videos are infinitely better than mine would be. so I saw no reason to record. im still learning kind of as I go, so I move extremely slowly. I'll leave the videos to the professionals like you lol. but build 1 is aluminum commander 9mm. 2 is all steel officer frame and 4.25 in commander slide in 40s&w. about the only thing I've done that I haven't seen you do, is flat top a slide then made a hole to accept a Glock front sight. that was pretty challenging
MosinVirus I did. and I must say, you make it look so easy to achieve a perfectly level flat with a file in your 9mm commander rear site cut video... it was actually very difficult for me. I should have used a guide, but after watching you do it so easily. I just jumped in head first like an idiot. mistakes were made lol
As you have already discovered, differences in the metal alloy and hardness will affect the color. the contrast in color is very complimentary. You did an excellent job of parkerizing for your first time.
Thank you very much. I actually also bought the pre-parkerizing black-dip. I hear it may result in all parts being pitch black, but since it was my first time doing this I decided to stick to the basics first. See the outcome, and in the future I may try that dip.
MosinVirus Yes it will help to give a more even black color to all the parts. That has been my experience with it in the past when I was an armorer for my department. but I still think the pistol turned out beautiful just as you did it.
Yes, you have to season the new parkerizing solution. Once seasoned, all you do is add distilled water to bring the level back up to where it was before evaporating.
Great video and love the video series and the intro to your videos. Really like the look of this pistol. While yes its two tone, yet it has a lot of character and class.
If that´s your first parkerizing attempt it´s incredible, good for you. It reminds me of over - under shotguns that you see with monobloc barrels where the monobloc and the tubes themselves are a different shade of blue due to chemical composition and hardness. I agree with you though, so long as it is even it´s fine. Actually, I prefer it, adds a bit of character.
MosinVirus I messed up my 1911 slide trying to cut front serrations, the first side came out somewhat ok, But when I layed out the opposite side I forgot to angle the cuts so they are totally off. I have to see if I can find someone to weld the stainless slide & fill the serrations & re do them.
scott 1911man The carry cuts that people put on the front of the slides. I think they are also called Hi - Power cuts since they resemble the slide front of a BHP. the slide is narrower at the front and toward the dust cover.
Is it super expensive for the parkerizing solution? I just wish you had about double the amount of solution in the pot which would have made it so much easier for you I think. What a beautiful job you did!!!
BrotherNoomkie no, the solution is not expensive. I just had no previous experience to know how much I would need so I got the smaller amount rather than a larger amount of solution when I was buying it. Now I know to get a bit more.
Panzerkopf absolutely. The only thing I woukd have done differently is to get more solution so my bath would have more volume and I wouldn't have to worry about parts touching the bottom or sticking out of the bath all the time.
Станислав Изотов Спасибо. Я кстати про накладки в белом думал, но потом как представил себе их вид после продолжительного пользования, да еще если руки вспотеют, то тут-же решил пользоваться темнымм.
An easier way to do your measurements is to put your parking solution in the container first, then mark a line at the level it comes to, then measure out your water. You can also mix less at a time that way.
На этот раз воронение мне не понравилось. Какое-то оно слишком матовое и не равномерное. Мне кажется, что если бы воронение делать этим же способом, но в несколько слоёв ( хотя бы 3-4 ), то выглядело бы оно побогаче:)) В промежутках между слоями, я бы рекомендовал полировать части стальной ватой 0000. ( steel wool ). После каждой полировки ватой, воронение будет существенно улучшаться. Ну а в остальном, все как всегда здорово и интересно👍😃
Escalope I only got a few parts to come out black. most parkerizing done by Manganese solutions are dark gray, Zinc solutions produce light gray color. Some solutions say you can control color. This was my first attempt and I only have experience with manganese type. Can't really comment on the others.
Beautiful gun looks excellent! im not familiar with parkerizing will you have to refit some of the pieces because it adds material to the metal? or is like a special rust?
abraham m Thank you very much, it is a surface conversion process that adds virtually nothing to dimensions. And whatever us added will immediacy break down to surface, so no issues there.
So for your next commander build you should do bobtail slide and frame/mainspring housing, aluminum frame. That would be freaking amazing. With chain link front strap checkering. Also is has to be in .45acp. Basically I'm asking you to build my dream carry 1911.
William Reese I am actually not a fan of aluminum frames as it turns out. I know it would weigh a lot less but I can't even get a conceal carry license in my county, so I prefer my range or HD guns to be heavy. Next one is RMR
Yeah. I looked into building my own 1911 early last year thinking that since building your own AR 15 will save you some money, the same must be for a 1911. Uhhhhh...Yeah. No. After pricing out the slide and frame I liked and all the other parts, and then the tools and supplies needed, it seemed cheaper to buy a custom 1911 lol. So you're my hero after financing and building 8 of them yourself.
William Reese Well the cost of tools is lower when it is spread over 8 builds. And as I am able to get a little better at building, I am actually saving a lot over going with custom guns featuring the options I wanted to try. it is not cheaper to build 1. it is only cheaper if you will build a few.
I'm in the middle of making a 1911 full size frame from a solid block of steel.( it's coming along ok so far)..have you ever thought or attempted a build from scratch???
Very nice. Well done! With the sandblasting, did you have to take measures to prevent sandblasting areas that have been fitted, such as the rails, locking lugs,bushing etc?
My Gun Garage actually the opposite. Parkerizing only works on roughed up surfaces, so you actually have to blast everything. When I had my local gunsmith parkerize my Build 5, I asked the same qiestion. He said not to worry because as soon as you put the slide on the frame and move it once or twice the fine crystal crust formed on the outside will break down. He was right. Same thing happened on this one. At first the slide going on the frame felt too tight and gritty, but as soon as I moved it all the way back, it got smooth as butter.
MosinVirus this is good too know because Im about to park my old SA mil spec. should I blast the breech face or tape off? that's the only area that concerns me. my SA model is from the late 80s, early 90s so its pretty darn loose.
Well, I personally would blast everything but not with coarse media. 120 or so. On the other hand, you can simply rough up the surface with a bit of 220 and still have good park.
What is itemized steel? If that's what you're saying. You have inspired me to undertake a home 1911 build with files and the like as you have. I already make some fairly decent knives so I hope some of those skills transfer over.
@@thatguy746 oh, atomized. If you search for it "081-021-104MB 12 oz. Atomized Steel" on Brownells you will find it. You can also use steel wool but it is a PITA to degrease it completely.
Thank you very much sir. I'm gonna give this whole 1911 building thing a shot and if I can produce something 1/4 as good as some of yours I'll be happy.
Joel Lopez I think it is better, cheaper, and easier to accomplish. price wise, not sure since I have never done cerakote just heard what people are paying.
If I had proper licensing to do this for others I would charge. Not having licensing prevents me from workong on other people's guns. In any case, if you want to build one and I did it for you that would be cheating. ;) you should do it, it is captivating and in the end you have something you can be proud of.
Wow. That turned out really nice. Thank you for the video. I tried my hand at slow rust bluing after watching your hi-power videos. I think I might try my hand at parkerizing my hi-power. Hoping to get a dark parkerization with some dark brown g-10 grips (to match with my 1911a1). Maybe I missed it, did you document your sand blasting set-up?
Thank you very much. Parkerizing as it turns out is very easy. I imagine it is similar to hot bluing. But it is so much easier than slow rust bluing it doesn't even belong in the same category. I don't have s blasting setup. I had to use someone else's setup and didn't film it. But I know that harbor freight has a nice cabinet for sale. All you need is a high capacity and high performance pump compressor...
Hey Mosin, Quick question for you, would you recommend parkerizing or bluing for a 1911 Carbon Steel Slide? I am working on my very first 1911 build and I have spent a ton of time researching and learning from all over the internet. I decided to buy the frame, slide, and barrel all from the same manufacture to help reduce some possible fitting. The lower frame is a stainless steel, but the slide is Carbon Steel. I thought I would be able to shine up the carbon, but I have learned that will cause lots of rust. I have already polished up the stainless steel lower frame, and I have since realized parkerizing or bluing is my best bet for look and more importantly functionality of the slide. As of now I plan on ordering all of my trigger and safety parts in blued steel. Knowing this what would you recommend? Sorry that the question ended up being not so quick, I just felt like giving you all the information. If you recommend bluing is there a specific one that you have found works best?
Cold bluing is not something I would consider. It is not durable and will come off easily. Slow Rust bluing is very involved and time consuming. Also, Slow Rust bluing will probably not work out too well on polished surfaces. Parkerizing I like very much. Probably more than bluing, but you will have to scuff up the polished surfaces or better yet blast them... Why not choose Ion Bond DLC, Melonite, or Cerakote?
Thank you for the response. I will take that in mind, and I honestly haven't really seen anything on Ion Bonding, Melonite, or Cerakote treatments on 1911's. I also do not plan on refinishing the 1911 polished frame. It is the only component that I have polished and I think the two tone look will look good. It's just the carbon steel slide and maybe some action/slide components that I will want to refinish/finish. Whatever you recommend as a first timer I will really take into consideration. I am purposely working slow that way I do everything as well as I can.
kyle haag well, in that case, and assuming you want to do the finish yourself, and because slow rust bluing is much harder and lengthier process, I would say parkerizing is the best bet. Cerakote gives you a lot more color options. it is a coating. Melonite is a surface addition/ conversion process (black only), Ion Bond is something like a surface additon/conversion process (I believe it is only one color as well).
Hey Mosin, One last question for you. How rough would you recommend I make the slide surface before I parkerize? The last part of the items I ordered to do this arrive Tuesday so I just want to make sure I know exactly what to do. I do not currently own a sand blaster so I will be using 220 grit sandpaper. The slide is still currently "in the white" and not finished in any way shape or form. I am also assuming that I should try to work the sand paper in all the little nooks and crevices that I can. Thanks for all the help by the way.
kyle haag according to brownells video, you could use the coarse green or brown abrasive pads from a hardware store. I would probably use those since I think they are a bit more forgiving. Yes, you want to scuff up the surfaces you want to parkerize, so all surfaces have to be scuffed up.
That is an amazing look! I am considering a 1911 build but wondering about Stealth Arms aluminum frames vs the 1911 Builders Steel Frames. I'd like it in 10mm but I dont believe 1911 Builders offers that. Would you have a recommendation? By the way, I've been binge watching your videos for the past week. Amazing work! Being in California as well is inspiring. Thank you for your videos!
I would go with steel for 10mm, and because you want supported chamber, you would want to go with a ramped barrel, which means any ramped barrel frame will work. In CA it is now impossible to legally build a semi-auto pistol from 80%. :(
@@MosinVirus Really?!? That is terrible! Hopefully that changes I was looking forward to trying some of what I learned from you videos. That Parkerized look is amazing. I look forward to watching more of your content. Thanks!
@@MosinVirus look forward to seeing them! Enjoy your remodel, I know how much work that is. If you're ever in NorCal, come on by. I'll buy you a bottle of wine. Cheers
Hey bro you do amazing work, I wanna build a 1911.45 - this is my first build. I’ve looked into stealth arms but I’m looking for something a little cheaper. WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST. I know nothing about this but I’m very mechanically inclined . I wanna start ordering dec 1
Usually, building an 80% will require either jigs or mill and fixturing to complete, so it will be more expensive. The cost after that depends on parts you select, so it all kind of depends on selections. I personally prefer steel frames, and usually get them from 1911builders. But VytamenC frames are similar and a little less expensive than 1911builders ones. I've also never built on kits that the companies provide. I usually go for specific parts and get them from Brownells. If you want to save as much money as possible I would recommend buying a cheap base 1911, and slowly building it up into what you want it to be.
nice job. Thanks for this and all of your other videos!! So, hard to tell but, is the color more of a black or a dark green? Also, are other color parkerizations possible or available?
irgski I think most parkerizing comes out with a hint of green in the color, but in this case it was very low on green. Usually there is only light and dark, but I some cases by freak accident people do run into brown park. Rare though.
Omg I just watched from start to finish nice brother now I would big bucks for that some of these big manufacturers who do make wonderful 1911s butt charge an arm and a leg for something I believe of less quality then yours keep the next vids shorter or I will get nothing done around the house
I think it was more about me learning a new process, but also I actually do like parkerized finish. My build 5 (the schuemann comped barrel one) is also parkerized. So far it held up beautifully. And I found out that I really have to clean that comp after every range trip with that gun.
I believe you can pre dip or post dip the parts also, before oil dipping, if you don't like the color just re-blast and coat again.. I use the blind hog method for my hot bluing , awesome and simple and cheap . good work.
I buy the parkerizing solution premade. I use the manganese solution. The other ingredient is distilled water. Any water-displacing oil can be used after.
Your degreasing was not sufficient, you should put the parts in an oven at 100 degrees for half an hour then simply use acitone if you see oils seeping out. repeat till you no longer see any oils seeping out of the steel (yes steel is porus).
Hey is this the video you were talking about from my question earlier? I don't really have access to a sand blaster but you think sanding with 220 is good enough? If not I could maybe buy one. When you checker is it best to push the file away from you or drag it back and forth? Do you use any cutting oil for steel frames?
Yes, this is the one where I did parkerizing. Sandpaper will definitely do the job removing old parkerizing. Just don't go overboard on the rails. As far as checkering goes, or filing in general yes, dragging the file back is bad, but really all I do is not put pressure on the file when I move it back. Anyone that has done a lot of filing on surfaces where it is important to keep alignment or plane will tell you that lifting off on back stroke is not something you do. In some cases, absolutely, i will lift the file, in others the cost of the file (if it goes dull) is far less than the cost of the work. I haven't used oil when checkering. Not recently anyway.
@@MosinVirus ok cool thanks man. Im gonna checker the front strap and parkerize it. When I first got this gun I didn't really care for the parkerize finish but now I really like it. Thanks again for your input it really helped me make a decision.
@@MosinVirus Hey will I need a sand blaster to rough up the checkering or do I even need to worry about that? Is that pot you used still good or it's garbage and is there any reason I couldn'tuse my kitchen stove?
I used a sandblasting cabinet to produce the same surface on the entire frame. But with checkering it may not be needed. As long as the pot is stainless, parkerizing solution will not touch it. I did it outside to prevent any vapors from distributing through the place. Not sure if the vapor will etch other metals around the area
Ray C No, no, House with a shop. My wife is great, as can be evident by me being able to do a whole lot without a shop. no need to ruin a great thing...
good job buddy nice to see a gut pay attention to every little detail
This is amazing! I've been subscribed to your channel for a while now and I love your content. You're very humble in your skills but they are extraordinary, in my opinion. Congratulations on a fine looking pistol.
Thank you very much. I hope I will not disappoint in the future.
deucedeuce22oz thank you very much.
Of all your work, this is the one I admire the most. I have been making my own 1911-A1’s from scratch since 1992, and I freely admit your work is more advanced than mine.
Thank you very much.
Mosin that turned out beautiful I actually love that subtle 2 tone look. youre amazing dude I look to all your videos when starting an 80% project!
Paul Anderson thank you. I am glad my videos help.
Amazing work MV, the attention to detail at every step is inspiring.
Thank you very much.
Each new build you make gets better and better. Looking forward to what you do next.
sharkversuskraken Thank you. I have started another off camera build back in November. may bring it to on-camera.
I just have to say that I am very impressed with your work, your detail and the fact that you still respond to comments on a2 year old video. Cudos man. I'm subscribed for sure now!
Thank you. Hopefully you will not be disappointed.
You sir, fascinate, yet freak me out. How one guy's noggin holds THAT much know how AND the physical dexterity-artistry to pull this whole thing off is nothing short of mind blowing! 99% of these viewers have no clue as to the overall epic feat that completing this in it's entirety is. Extremely impressive! Please show us the tutorial when you build and launch your lunar lander...or...did I miss that already?
Haha. Thank you. I just like working with my hands. When I get more space then things will get really interesting.
very nice job. Can"t believe you did such a nice job in such a small place. Well done.
vipervette03 Thank you. the space is definitely an issue, but hopefully I can expand a bit in the future.
MV I love it how you start some videos with describing "the mistake you already made before filming" and how it works out okay in the end. It shows you have the scientific mindset to go after perfection. You're bringing me closer to adding a new aspect to my workshop & laboratory hobbies... like if I don't have enough hobbies yet :-)
Thank you. Yes, I try to show everything, because I think it will help.
Mosin, you inspired me so much, that I am going on my 4th build. It is a hybrid, 3 inch 9mm on a full size ss railed frame that will be with bobtail mainspring housing. AWESOME WORK BROTHER!!!
Thank you very much. You should share your accomplishments as well. Sounds like you will have a fun little 9mm.
I watched all of your videos, you are truly amazing, and very diligent besides you deeply understand what you are doing, I got a lot of knowledge from you, thanks
Citizen Journalism thank you very much. I am glad my videos help and I will continue to share as I learn more.
This is a really really cool addition to your videos ! Much appreciated.
billhickox thank you very much.
hey mosin, long time subscriber. I have watched every 1911/2011 vid you have at least once. (in most cases several times) you inspired me to build my own, and without your vids I would have been lost. thanks to you I have built 2 and many more to come. I just wanted to thank you for your wonderful and informative videos. I would never have found the love for building I have without you. sincerely.. thank you. keep being awesome:)
Kelcy Weed thank you very much. I am glad I could help. Isn't building them just fun? good luck with all your projects. are you sharing the progress somewhere?
MosinVirus I don't know what it is about it that makes it so captivating. but I absolutely love it. however, I'm not filming or taking pictures of progress, not to sound like I'm brown nosing, but your videos are infinitely better than mine would be. so I saw no reason to record. im still learning kind of as I go, so I move extremely slowly. I'll leave the videos to the professionals like you lol. but build 1 is aluminum commander 9mm. 2 is all steel officer frame and 4.25 in commander slide in 40s&w. about the only thing I've done that I haven't seen you do, is flat top a slide then made a hole to accept a Glock front sight. that was pretty challenging
Kelcy Weed wow, sounds exciting. Did you flat top by hand?
MosinVirus I did. and I must say, you make it look so easy to achieve a perfectly level flat with a file in your 9mm commander rear site cut video... it was actually very difficult for me. I should have used a guide, but after watching you do it so easily. I just jumped in head first like an idiot. mistakes were made lol
Kelcy Weed I am sure you flat was flat. Got pics? I woukd love to see it especially with a Glock sight.
Nice job! I had seen the picks on the forum.
I love a nice parkerized finish!
Thank you. I think it is one of my favorites too.
Considering you did all of that parking at home, it looks amazing. Great job brother.
Thank you very much.
beautiful job! 2 tone gives it class
@@alanex5225 thank you very much.
You are certainly talented my man! Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much.
As you have already discovered, differences in the metal alloy and hardness will affect the color. the contrast in color is very complimentary. You did an excellent job of parkerizing for your first time.
Thank you very much. I actually also bought the pre-parkerizing black-dip. I hear it may result in all parts being pitch black, but since it was my first time doing this I decided to stick to the basics first. See the outcome, and in the future I may try that dip.
MosinVirus Yes it will help to give a more even black color to all the parts. That has been my experience with it in the past when I was an armorer for my department. but I still think the pistol turned out beautiful just as you did it.
Thank you. I am actually going to see about becoming licensed and maybe getting a job or starting a business where I can do this full time.
No doubt you will be very sucessful.
Larry Sherwood that is the hope, but I know for a fact that I will be happy, finally doing what I apparently love.
Very nice looking pistol! I learned to parkerize building AK's. I look forward to seeing how it shoots! Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
JB S thank you. I hope to make it out to a range this weekend. wondering if the front sight is on a short side. We'll see if it shoots high.
I forgot the steelwool and didn't get the Amazing result you get,Congratulations
Yes, you have to season the new parkerizing solution. Once seasoned, all you do is add distilled water to bring the level back up to where it was before evaporating.
I would be proud to own that weapon. you have a gift sir
gerald dorrian thank you. I was very impressed with how easy parkerizing was to apply.
Excellent work as always my friend!
Thank you very much. It is actually not as aggressive as it looks (the grip). The grips are more aggressive than the checkering.
drop dead gorgeous gun ....i like the two tone
Thank you very much. I am getting more and more attached to the two tone I got as well
Great video and love the video series and the intro to your videos. Really like the look of this pistol. While yes its two tone, yet it has a lot of character and class.
ratagris21 Thank you very much.
Excellent Job! The pistol looks fantastic!
Thank you very much
Man you did a great job! The gun looks phenomenal!
Thank you very much. I am very happy with it as well
Very nice! Looks spectacular!
Thank you very much.
I can't believe how easy that seemed.
It is actually that easy.
If that´s your first parkerizing attempt it´s incredible, good for you. It reminds me of over - under shotguns that you see with monobloc barrels where the monobloc and the tubes themselves are a different shade of blue due to chemical composition and hardness. I agree with you though, so long as it is even it´s fine. Actually, I prefer it, adds a bit of character.
Thank you. Yes, that was my first time parkerizing something myself. Next time I have a chance I will try the pre-parkerizing black dip.
Turned out very nice, I did my Star 9mm largo it turned out really nice.
Thank you. Glad the video helped.
Another excellent video. I was thinking about doing this for a future project.
Wayne Richter Thank you. yes, it is an easy finish that is actually pretty great.
Thank you for your valuable information to us beginners.
My pleasure. It was my first time too.
Freaking Awesome****** I absolutely Love it.. Great job.. I cant wait for your next project.
scott 1911man Thank you. next one will be much simpler. It is all stainless.
MosinVirus I messed up my 1911 slide trying to cut front serrations, the first side came out somewhat ok, But when I layed out the opposite side I forgot to angle the cuts so they are totally off. I have to see if I can find someone to weld the stainless slide & fill the serrations & re do them.
scott 1911man or, depending on where they are, maybe file them down to a "carry cut"
MosinVirus Sorry but what do you mean file down to a carry cut?? I dont understand, Thanks again in advance
scott 1911man The carry cuts that people put on the front of the slides. I think they are also called Hi - Power cuts since they resemble the slide front of a BHP. the slide is narrower at the front and toward the dust cover.
Love the job you did
Thank you very much.
Shinny. I like the look of the frame and slide being a bit different in darkness.
Sith Yarael thank you. I feel the same way
Is it super expensive for the parkerizing solution? I just wish you had about double the amount of solution in the pot which would have made it so much easier for you I think. What a beautiful job you did!!!
BrotherNoomkie no, the solution is not expensive. I just had no previous experience to know how much I would need so I got the smaller amount rather than a larger amount of solution when I was buying it. Now I know to get a bit more.
Very impressive!
The finish came out sooo nice :O
Panzerkopf Thank you. I think so too and is very easy to get as it turns out.
MosinVirus Yeah, I've always thought parkerization would be a somewhat scary and hard process, but it seemed doable :)
Panzerkopf absolutely. The only thing I woukd have done differently is to get more solution so my bath would have more volume and I wouldn't have to worry about parts touching the bottom or sticking out of the bath all the time.
Excellent Series !
Thank you. Glad you liked it, but I still have to go shoot it with sights. Maybe this weekend.
Awesome pistol, I really like how it turned out.
Thank you very much. I like how it turned out too.
It is advisable to put on the gun arm in white, would look nicer.Excellent bluing all the parts, love it job!
Станислав Изотов Спасибо. Я кстати про накладки в белом думал, но потом как представил себе их вид после продолжительного пользования, да еще если руки вспотеют, то тут-же решил пользоваться темнымм.
Very nice job!
Thank you very much
Two tone looks right fine.
Thank you. I like it too.
MosinVirus If you need more practice I've got a Bulgarian SLR-105 that needs Parkerized. =P
I use glass beads instead of sand will give a nice clean satin finish not as harsh as sand, looks great.
Thank you very much. That is very good to know.
love it ,, A+ for your work
WombatBull thank you very much
Very nice,great job
Thank you very much
Fantastic job! Spasibo!
Thank you. И не за что.
Very nice. Well done.
mario S. Thank you.
Looks fantastic
Thank you very much.
An easier way to do your measurements is to put your parking solution in the container first, then mark a line at the level it comes to, then measure out your water. You can also mix less at a time that way.
Shooter77 thank you.
That two-tone park finish came out better if it were matching! That dark grey and black is the tits
donovan007007 Thank you. Yes, it doesn't look bad at all. I like it too.
На этот раз воронение мне не понравилось. Какое-то оно слишком матовое и не равномерное. Мне кажется, что если бы воронение делать этим же способом, но в несколько слоёв ( хотя бы 3-4 ), то выглядело бы оно побогаче:)) В промежутках между слоями, я бы рекомендовал полировать части стальной ватой 0000. ( steel wool ). После каждой полировки ватой, воронение будет существенно улучшаться. Ну а в остальном, все как всегда здорово и интересно👍😃
Алексей Бровин это совершенно другой процесс.
reaaaally good job !
Thank you very much.
MosinVirus i d like to parkerize my oooold gp35. i see some products "us military color". how is it ? like some 1911 ?
yours is just black ?
Escalope I only got a few parts to come out black. most parkerizing done by Manganese solutions are dark gray, Zinc solutions produce light gray color. Some solutions say you can control color. This was my first attempt and I only have experience with manganese type. Can't really comment on the others.
MosinVirus ok thank you very much.
i watched your videos about gp35. awesome. and i learnt a lot about for my mosin too :)
Escalope Glad I could help. I still need to make a video on improving the 91/30 magazine.
Parkerizing👍Nice!!!
Thsnk you. My favorite finish.
Beautiful gun looks excellent! im not familiar with parkerizing will you have to refit some of the pieces because it adds material to the metal? or is like a special rust?
abraham m Thank you very much, it is a surface conversion process that adds virtually nothing to dimensions. And whatever us added will immediacy break down to surface, so no issues there.
Nice build
17thefuzz thank you.
thanks for kind information.
It is my pleasure.
So for your next commander build you should do bobtail slide and frame/mainspring housing, aluminum frame. That would be freaking amazing. With chain link front strap checkering. Also is has to be in .45acp. Basically I'm asking you to build my dream carry 1911.
William Reese I am actually not a fan of aluminum frames as it turns out. I know it would weigh a lot less but I can't even get a conceal carry license in my county, so I prefer my range or HD guns to be heavy. Next one is RMR
Should be interesting! Best of luck! You do a fantastic job!
William Reese it will certainly be expensive. ;)
Yeah. I looked into building my own 1911 early last year thinking that since building your own AR 15 will save you some money, the same must be for a 1911. Uhhhhh...Yeah. No. After pricing out the slide and frame I liked and all the other parts, and then the tools and supplies needed, it seemed cheaper to buy a custom 1911 lol. So you're my hero after financing and building 8 of them yourself.
William Reese Well the cost of tools is lower when it is spread over 8 builds. And as I am able to get a little better at building, I am actually saving a lot over going with custom guns featuring the options I wanted to try. it is not cheaper to build 1. it is only cheaper if you will build a few.
I'm in the middle of making a 1911 full size frame from a solid block of steel.( it's coming along ok so far)..have you ever thought or attempted a build from scratch???
That sounds exciting. Yes, I have thought about it, but no, I haven't attempted it, and at this point it would be illegal to do so in CA.
Very nice. Well done!
With the sandblasting, did you have to take measures to prevent sandblasting areas that have been fitted, such as the rails, locking lugs,bushing etc?
My Gun Garage actually the opposite. Parkerizing only works on roughed up surfaces, so you actually have to blast everything. When I had my local gunsmith parkerize my Build 5, I asked the same qiestion. He said not to worry because as soon as you put the slide on the frame and move it once or twice the fine crystal crust formed on the outside will break down. He was right. Same thing happened on this one. At first the slide going on the frame felt too tight and gritty, but as soon as I moved it all the way back, it got smooth as butter.
MosinVirus this is good too know because Im about to park my old SA mil spec. should I blast the breech face or tape off? that's the only area that concerns me. my SA model is from the late 80s, early 90s so its pretty darn loose.
Well, I personally would blast everything but not with coarse media. 120 or so. On the other hand, you can simply rough up the surface with a bit of 220 and still have good park.
MosinVirus ok will do.
very nice
ex.cxflyr thank you.
That came out great! Can this be done with a stainless frame and slide?
Thank you. Unfortunately no, parkerizing will not work on stainless. But you can look into a melonite finish, though it cannot be done at home.
Amazing
Thanks
What is itemized steel?
If that's what you're saying.
You have inspired me to undertake a home 1911 build with files and the like as you have.
I already make some fairly decent knives so I hope some of those skills transfer over.
Sorry, it is probably my accent. Can you tell me the time in the video when I say it?
Around 4:30
@@thatguy746 oh, atomized. If you search for it "081-021-104MB 12 oz. Atomized Steel" on Brownells you will find it. You can also use steel wool but it is a PITA to degrease it completely.
Thank you very much sir.
I'm gonna give this whole 1911 building thing a shot and if I can produce something 1/4 as good as some of yours I'll be happy.
@@thatguy746 sounds great. If you have Ang questions along your build, come hit me up on Full30 Forum in gunsmithing section
Way better than Ceracoat! And it looks easier. How does it compares price wise?
Joel Lopez I think it is better, cheaper, and easier to accomplish. price wise, not sure since I have never done cerakote just heard what people are paying.
Awesome job. I have always wanted to build my own 1911. What would you charge to do this?
If I had proper licensing to do this for others I would charge. Not having licensing prevents me from workong on other people's guns. In any case, if you want to build one and I did it for you that would be cheating. ;) you should do it, it is captivating and in the end you have something you can be proud of.
Wow. That turned out really nice. Thank you for the video.
I tried my hand at slow rust bluing after watching your hi-power videos. I think I might try my hand at parkerizing my hi-power. Hoping to get a dark parkerization with some dark brown g-10 grips (to match with my 1911a1). Maybe I missed it, did you document your sand blasting set-up?
Thank you very much. Parkerizing as it turns out is very easy. I imagine it is similar to hot bluing. But it is so much easier than slow rust bluing it doesn't even belong in the same category. I don't have s blasting setup. I had to use someone else's setup and didn't film it. But I know that harbor freight has a nice cabinet for sale. All you need is a high capacity and high performance pump compressor...
You're great man
You are too kind.
Hey Mosin,
Quick question for you, would you recommend parkerizing or bluing for a 1911 Carbon Steel Slide? I am working on my very first 1911 build and I have spent a ton of time researching and learning from all over the internet. I decided to buy the frame, slide, and barrel all from the same manufacture to help reduce some possible fitting. The lower frame is a stainless steel, but the slide is Carbon Steel. I thought I would be able to shine up the carbon, but I have learned that will cause lots of rust. I have already polished up the stainless steel lower frame, and I have since realized parkerizing or bluing is my best bet for look and more importantly functionality of the slide. As of now I plan on ordering all of my trigger and safety parts in blued steel. Knowing this what would you recommend? Sorry that the question ended up being not so quick, I just felt like giving you all the information. If you recommend bluing is there a specific one that you have found works best?
Cold bluing is not something I would consider. It is not durable and will come off easily. Slow Rust bluing is very involved and time consuming. Also, Slow Rust bluing will probably not work out too well on polished surfaces. Parkerizing I like very much. Probably more than bluing, but you will have to scuff up the polished surfaces or better yet blast them... Why not choose Ion Bond DLC, Melonite, or Cerakote?
Thank you for the response. I will take that in mind, and I honestly haven't really seen anything on Ion Bonding, Melonite, or Cerakote treatments on 1911's. I also do not plan on refinishing the 1911 polished frame. It is the only component that I have polished and I think the two tone look will look good. It's just the carbon steel slide and maybe some action/slide components that I will want to refinish/finish. Whatever you recommend as a first timer I will really take into consideration. I am purposely working slow that way I do everything as well as I can.
kyle haag well, in that case, and assuming you want to do the finish yourself, and because slow rust bluing is much harder and lengthier process, I would say parkerizing is the best bet. Cerakote gives you a lot more color options. it is a coating. Melonite is a surface addition/ conversion process (black only), Ion Bond is something like a surface additon/conversion process (I believe it is only one color as well).
Hey Mosin,
One last question for you. How rough would you recommend I make the slide surface before I parkerize? The last part of the items I ordered to do this arrive Tuesday so I just want to make sure I know exactly what to do. I do not currently own a sand blaster so I will be using 220 grit sandpaper. The slide is still currently "in the white" and not finished in any way shape or form. I am also assuming that I should try to work the sand paper in all the little nooks and crevices that I can. Thanks for all the help by the way.
kyle haag according to brownells video, you could use the coarse green or brown abrasive pads from a hardware store. I would probably use those since I think they are a bit more forgiving. Yes, you want to scuff up the surfaces you want to parkerize, so all surfaces have to be scuffed up.
That is an amazing look! I am considering a 1911 build but wondering about Stealth Arms aluminum frames vs the 1911 Builders Steel Frames. I'd like it in 10mm but I dont believe 1911 Builders offers that. Would you have a recommendation? By the way, I've been binge watching your videos for the past week. Amazing work! Being in California as well is inspiring. Thank you for your videos!
I would go with steel for 10mm, and because you want supported chamber, you would want to go with a ramped barrel, which means any ramped barrel frame will work. In CA it is now impossible to legally build a semi-auto pistol from 80%. :(
@@MosinVirus Really?!? That is terrible! Hopefully that changes I was looking forward to trying some of what I learned from you videos. That Parkerized look is amazing. I look forward to watching more of your content. Thanks!
I will resume making more videos soon. Still working on the house remodel.
@@MosinVirus look forward to seeing them! Enjoy your remodel, I know how much work that is. If you're ever in NorCal, come on by. I'll buy you a bottle of wine. Cheers
Thank you very much.
Hey bro you do amazing work, I wanna build a 1911.45 - this is my first build. I’ve looked into stealth arms but I’m looking for something a little cheaper. WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST. I know nothing about this but I’m very mechanically inclined . I wanna start ordering dec 1
Usually, building an 80% will require either jigs or mill and fixturing to complete, so it will be more expensive. The cost after that depends on parts you select, so it all kind of depends on selections. I personally prefer steel frames, and usually get them from 1911builders. But VytamenC frames are similar and a little less expensive than 1911builders ones. I've also never built on kits that the companies provide. I usually go for specific parts and get them from Brownells. If you want to save as much money as possible I would recommend buying a cheap base 1911, and slowly building it up into what you want it to be.
nice job. Thanks for this and all of your other videos!!
So, hard to tell but, is the color more of a black or a dark green?
Also, are other color parkerizations possible or available?
irgski I think most parkerizing comes out with a hint of green in the color, but in this case it was very low on green. Usually there is only light and dark, but I some cases by freak accident people do run into brown park. Rare though.
The military 1911s that I'm used to seeing mostly have parkerizing on the green side.
Good job however on your first try!
Thank you. It did come out pretty well. And I saved that whole batch of parkerizing solution so I can park something when I need to.
Dont worry, 2 tone handgun looks cool 😉
Thank you
Omg I just watched from start to finish nice brother now I would big bucks for that some of these big manufacturers who do make wonderful 1911s butt charge an arm and a leg for something I believe of less quality then yours keep the next vids shorter or I will get nothing done around the house
jayboney el toro thank you very much.
Sweet.
Yes, this one turned out pretty well.
So did you parkerized all the internals except springs, hammer and trigger?
I don't think I touched any springs, and some of the parts were stainless.
that beautiful pistol deserved something better than phosphate finish!
I think it was more about me learning a new process, but also I actually do like parkerized finish. My build 5 (the schuemann comped barrel one) is also parkerized. So far it held up beautifully. And I found out that I really have to clean that comp after every range trip with that gun.
Hello I am following you. which chemicals do you use in this process
I used a Manganese Solution I got from Brownells.
@@MosinVirus thank you
That's right.I used hand drill ,next time.drill press live and learn.
Yes, drill press would have been better.
the pre dip black would even up the light colors....I do hot bluing at home the same way
Very good to know. I hope I can try it out sometime in the future since I already have it.
I believe you can pre dip or post dip the parts also, before oil dipping, if you don't like the color just re-blast and coat again.. I use the blind hog method for my hot bluing , awesome and simple and cheap . good work.
wicked awesome pistol. me want.
Thank you.
What if you’re just doing small parts, do you have to season it?
I think it should be seasoned anyway.
Hi, I know this is not on topic of parkerizing but where do you go for your engraving
J Kruse I go to a local laser engraver.
why do you go with Caspian slides? cody at remsport has top notch slides for prolly half the price of Caspians
Juliet Delta Customs it was a rush purchase when I realized that a slide I was going to use was out of spec.
Could you parkerize a mosin nagant bolt? (minus the spring)
Don't know. Never tried.
عمت مساءا كم من الوقت يجب ان تبقى القطعة غاطسة في المحلول وماهو الشي الذي اضفته الذي كان اشبه بكيس الشاي
تحياتي، يجب الاحتفاظ بالأجزاء في المحلول حتى لا يكون هناك أي تفاعل مرئي على السطح. تم استخدام كرة الشاي/الأعشاب لوضع أجزاء صغيرة بداخلها.
@@MosinVirus شكرا اخي اذن تمت عملية الصباغة باضافة الماء والمنغنيز فقط ام ان هناك شي اخر يضاف للمحلول
@@jj-vy9ek هذا من دواعى سرورى. لم أصنع الحل بنفسي مطلقًا، ولكن هناك مقاطع فيديو حول كيفية صنع محلول المنجنيز في المنزل.
That baby is beautiful. Do you want to sell it? You may not be able to, and I probably can"t afford it, but I have to ask.
Thank you very much. Can't sell it and probably wouldn't if I could. :)
If there is one thing you should never do is mess with your wife’s pots as part of your work shop. 🤣🤣
So true!
What's names all chemical ? please
I buy the parkerizing solution premade. I use the manganese solution. The other ingredient is distilled water. Any water-displacing oil can be used after.
Where I can buy this chemical?
I don't know where you are located, but I got mine from Midway USA
I'm loving in pakistan
Mirza Umair I am not sure they will ship it there.
I think if you edited this video more you could get mote info in. I didn't need to see the slide in the pot for 5 minutes.
Otherwise great videos
Thank you. I know my videos can be better. I always try to improve though it doesn't always work out.
I think i let mine sit in there for 25 minutes
Did it help?
@@MosinVirus seems to have worked well
After watching a bunch of your videos I have to assume that you just have your paycheck direct deposited in to Brownell's bank account. :)
Sadly this is true. :) I love spending money at Brownells.
@@MosinVirus guns are like diamonds for dudes.
@@jonathanmulzer17 agreed.
Your degreasing was not sufficient, you should put the parts in an oven at 100 degrees for half an hour then simply use acitone if you see oils seeping out. repeat till you no longer see any oils seeping out of the steel (yes steel is porus).
Thank you, but it appears the parkerizing went well. I will keep your recommendation in mind for the future though.
Can you send me a gun for free
Absolutely not.
Hey is this the video you were talking about from my question earlier? I don't really have access to a sand blaster but you think sanding with 220 is good enough? If not I could maybe buy one. When you checker is it best to push the file away from you or drag it back and forth? Do you use any cutting oil for steel frames?
Yes, this is the one where I did parkerizing. Sandpaper will definitely do the job removing old parkerizing. Just don't go overboard on the rails. As far as checkering goes, or filing in general yes, dragging the file back is bad, but really all I do is not put pressure on the file when I move it back. Anyone that has done a lot of filing on surfaces where it is important to keep alignment or plane will tell you that lifting off on back stroke is not something you do. In some cases, absolutely, i will lift the file, in others the cost of the file (if it goes dull) is far less than the cost of the work. I haven't used oil when checkering. Not recently anyway.
@@MosinVirus ok cool thanks man. Im gonna checker the front strap and parkerize it. When I first got this gun I didn't really care for the parkerize finish but now I really like it. Thanks again for your input it really helped me make a decision.
@@MosinVirus Hey will I need a sand blaster to rough up the checkering or do I even need to worry about that? Is that pot you used still good or it's garbage and is there any reason I couldn'tuse my kitchen stove?
I used a sandblasting cabinet to produce the same surface on the entire frame. But with checkering it may not be needed. As long as the pot is stainless, parkerizing solution will not touch it. I did it outside to prevent any vapors from distributing through the place. Not sure if the vapor will etch other metals around the area
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 my pleasure. Glad I could help
good goddamn looking pistol my friend!
Thank you. I like it too. Just got some sights on it. Will try and go shoot it this weekend to see how it performes with sights.
MosinVirus can't wait!
s
also, when are you going to do your own at home cerakoting?
Wife said absolutely no spraying. Gotta wait until I have a house so I can have a shop...
MosinVirus well... regardless I absolutely love these... can you do another 2011 type pistol? or maybe another SIG but do it in SAO?
Ray C No, no, House with a shop. My wife is great, as can be evident by me being able to do a whole lot without a shop. no need to ruin a great thing...