Idk what it was, but after watching this video, something about wet blending just clicked, and I managed to do it well on a test base! Thanks a million
I’m 25 years old and married now and started watching your videos again last week. No joke because of you I purchase some wh40k and started painting again (haven’t touched wh since I was 15) and wow. Just opening the pot of paint brings back so many memories and the smell of plastic glue reminds me of the hours of sweating in GW to build those armies. Thank you for your content and if you have a minute could I ask you for a few tips? Willing to pay of course as I know you’re a busy man. Thanks again!
Hey hey, that makes me super happy to hear! There is a link to my Patreon in the description and you can join my Discord through that. I will be more than happy to assist you with pretty much anything there
Your videos are awesome. On one hand you are hilarious and explain complex topics in a funny relatable way Your work is amazing and inspirational but present it in way that pushes people to try to reach that level. I can’t imagine how much fun and informative a class taught by you would be Thank you for all that do Your personality shines through on your videos
Airbrush is a cost saver over the long run, compared to the cost of good spray paint primers, such as Citadel. It's also easier to airbrush in the house during the winter here in Canada. Can't do that with spray paints. Plus it's more environmentally friendly.
100%. I can airbrush primer, varnish, or anything else whenever I want, instead of waiting for a "good spray day" if I was using cans outside. That's in addition to everything else an airbrush lets you do.
My life has changed since I discovered (thanks to Marco Frisoni) Molotow One4All paints, a.k.a The Airbrushable Non-Toxic Primer. I didn't like polyurethane surface primers on my airbrush, so I saw Marco using those as primers and I decided to give it a go. You don't need to dilute them, they have great coverage and you have a pretty decent color range.
The main reason I'm considering one is for undercoating and zenithal, as I live in a small flat within a building that opens on to the street- no garden for me, sadly 😢
The cost of cans was a big factor for me. £13.50 for a can that you have less control over, and paint WILL be wasted as you have to start spraying off the model, drag it across, then let go, to avoid any splatter or clumping. One can usually does one or most of an army, vs one pot of the same colour with an airbrush. Didn't even get an expensive one and it's almost paid for itself by now.
I mainly got a cheap airbrush to prime my models, I live in Sweden so 60% of the year it's too cold for rattlecans. Then I learnt a lot with it and now I prefer it to using a brush whenever possible. Not because the results are better necessarily, but I have a lot more fun!
A tip for brush-on priming of models: the primer branded as "Stynylrez" in the US (distributed by Badger) goes on with a brush with great reliability. And dries extremely thin when brushed - little danger of obscuring details. If you're in a position where you cannot spray from either airbrush or rattle can, this stuff is the best alternative I've found to date.
I started painting with oils for any type of colour transitioning and never looked back. I might still get an airbrush in the future, but for now this is all I need. Even though adjusting to the behaviour of oil paints took some time. I can only recommend everyone to at least try oil paints at some point. There are tons of good videos out there to get started.
1:59 I think that particuar "Medioom" is the king of all, ahahah. You're the best guy to listen to whe it comes to minis painters with a strong accent videos 👍🏻 And I'm French, lol (but my accent is over the top. Spent more than 10 years in Shanghai speaking mostly English)
Having learned this stuff from 'Eavy Metal dudes like 15 years ago, it's great to see it being taught on here. I don't mind the airbrush as a tool for certain things, but too often I see younger hobbyists so convinced that the airbrush is the be-all-end-all that they cause themselves so much more work and frustration trying to use it for things it's not meant for. I'll base with one, or spray flat vehicle panels, but honestly I hate the sound and lack of fine control for doing much else.
Somehow as I watched this the way you explained wet blending was rather more clear - I will try this out myself. Sketch reflection/high lights, then choose your colors, then wet blend, colors against each other, then smudging, getting a gradient. Hmmm!
I still want to try out oil paints but they definitely seem like they are best suited for larger models and busts. This was a great video and can't wait for the next one. Would love to see one on what you've learned about wet blending cuz I've always struggled with it. I'm not entirely sure why. I do think though one of the main reasons is I don't use a larger brush so I'm going to start trying that out.
I seem to notice while painting lately I’ve been kinda gravitating towards wet blending, without noticing. Only issue is if I don’t use a humidifier before I paint, it will dry to fast. Pain in the butt but, cus I am lick my brush, so I don’t use mediums, not sure if they are toxic or not.
I use both spray cans n airbrush. Problems with the former are rougher surfaces , cost (yes spray cans are not cheap) and need for multiple spray cans for different colours. For wet blending, try retarder, it'll help.
wet blending is amazing! an easier alternative to oil paints is water soluble oil paints. they dry faster depending on how much water you use to thin them down. try HOLBEIN DUO aqua if guys are interested.
@Zumikito Miniatures I would love to know which color recipe are you using for the orange in the weapon Im doing some research on the tone, thinking of painting my Aeldari in orange, for the Lugannath craftworld Thanks for all your content!
Sure thing! So the purple progression on the cloak is like this: Basecoat of mix Dark Sea blue + hexed lichen and then it goes like - hexed lichen, magenta and pastel pink. These paints are vallejo and AK interactive btw. Then, I add Burned orange on top of the magenta/pastel pink layer and add final highlight of pastel peach (both oranges are from AK interactive). Somewhere I added vermillion to shades, but not on the highlights. That's it
I appreciate this video. Im a thousand sons guy so most of my minis are pretty small. Im glad to know that i have alternatives to an airbrush since i cant afford one rn XD.
Another great video. I wet blend a heap, mainly when I can’t be bothered to get the air brush out. Perfect for small or hard to reach areas. I think what is amazing about this paint job is the colour selection. I feel like you nailed this part and will catch a lot of peoples eye’s because you got the basics (colour theory) right. Did you use any other colours to the ones showed in the video or were they just the colours used on the cloak? Ty
One thing that I find important about my airbrush is that I don't have to worry about the weather when I'm priming my models, plus it makes for a fast basecoat.
Just an fyi, if you both hate wet blending (like me) and still want to achieve these incredibly fine glazes easily, try getting a smaller needle for your airbrush. I started using a 0.2mm needle on my Iwata eclipse and just that alongside bringing the air pressure down allowed me to effortlessly glaze and layer on pieces as small as a space marine head. Obviously can't get to the level of precision of a paintbrush, but depending on your particular style that might not even be necessary for anything except edge highlighting or freehand.
Although it's not a technique I've tried yet (I'm still a noob to mini painting but have many years experience painting models) wet blending seems a perfectly obvious method. Rather than using more thinners to extend the working time of acrylics it would be better to use retarder - that's exactly what it's for! I have to use retarder in my airbrush mixes as my work area is usually quite warm and causes clogging, tip drying and "sandpaper" surface finishes if I don't use it (particularly with vallejo paint).
What size airbrush needles are you using? I do priming with a .4 or .5 needle, painting with a .2 or .3 needle, and very fine detail with .15 needle. I use a Badger Patriot for general work and a mix of Badger's Sotor 20/20 and Harder and Steenbeck Infinity+ for detail.
clean up longer than painting really prevents me from painting regulary with my AB... which in turn leads to more cleaning because im not in a regular working (and cleaning) routine... in the end loaded brush was the technique that really made me speed paint some 100 skaven warriors on a high standard in a shortish time, not the airbrush
Tbh I think an airbrush is a wise investment even if all you want to do is base coat stuff. It’s way quicker and easier (once you get the hang of it) than base coating by hand and gives a far superior finish.
Hey :) Thank You for putting effort in creating those videos! I've learned a lot from them. Although i have a question about wet blending: I've heard something about "Arcylic Retarder" - it can slow down paint drying. Is it better to use water or acrylic retarder for wet blending? 😉
I'm getting an Airbrush literally only because I hate the rattle cans. The weather has to be right, the distance has to be right, the can temperature has to be right, gotta watch to only hit with your mid stream because if you screw any of these up, you'll end up with cracked primer, texture of paint or even partially melted surface. So much shit that can go wrong because of the propellant.
Personally I think every painter has to develop his own style, painters can paint very artistically and/or technically. Compare a painting from Van Gogh vs Dali, in my opinion Van Gogh is more crude and artistically than a Dali painting but still full in its value. For example Blanchitsu is very artisticly and very pleasing to the eye but less refined.
Also, acrylic retarder helps with wet blending. I just use it all the time instead of a wet pallet. I have this little bottle of Vallejo retarder I've been using, and I think I've gone through a quarter of it. Granted, I don't paint a lot, but having it in a little squeeze dropper is helpful, and you don't use a lot, so it tends to go a long way. It also adds some transparency as a bonus for blends.
You should tell your viewers how much actual time it took you as a professional painter vs an amateur, because those transitions are very technical and take tons of muscle memory to do that tiny blend within 20 minutes to get it to look seamless, when it could easily take an amateur over 2 hours and not get the results you got; that kind of brush work to get those blends takes thousands of hours of work in that short of time without an airbrush.
i love how everybody says airbrushes take a long time to clean up... i get mine out and put it away multiple times a day when im painting... takes me a couple mins to clean up and put it away... i wish people would stop saying it takes so LOONG to clean up... it scares people away from a great tool
But if u are wet blending one model in comparison the airbrush dose take a lot longer due to setting it up and cleaning it out. There is ways around it like just leave it set up and let airbrush cleaner sit in the cup until u want it next witch will stop paint from drying in the cup
@@liamhgd581 no... Mines sitting on my desk... So set up is just flipping a switch on the compressor... And it only takes 30 seconds to clean it out of it isn't a long long session
I think it's OKAY to use rattle cans, but you literally can't equate them. The smoothness is not even close. You can see the speckle pattern even in these videos. For sure it's fine, but if you want the best outcome, you literally need an airbrush. Also, rattle can zenithal looks like butt.
Just need to add in here that the money you save priming and varnishing with an airbrush over rattlecans will pay for the airbrush in less than a year for most of us hobbyists. From then on you will have extra money to spend on miniatures. One bottle of airbrush primer primes as much as 3-4 cans of spray. On bottle of airbrush primer is what? $9? Do the math.
Idk what it was, but after watching this video, something about wet blending just clicked, and I managed to do it well on a test base! Thanks a million
Wish it would "click" for me. Lol all things in time.
I had a similar moment after watching Goobertown Hobbies wet blend some shields. It changed my painting!
Great information in this video! Brush skills are so underrated 👍
not underrated at all! it's more of a choice between mutually cancelling features: aurbrush gives you speed and efficiency (especially when it comes to painting a lot at a time), whereas regular brush gives you precision and control.
i say "pick right tools for the job at hand" ©
Underrated? No they're not. Golden Demon was created to prove that they're not underrated... lmao
I’m 25 years old and married now and started watching your videos again last week. No joke because of you I purchase some wh40k and started painting again (haven’t touched wh since I was 15) and wow. Just opening the pot of paint brings back so many memories and the smell of plastic glue reminds me of the hours of sweating in GW to build those armies. Thank you for your content and if you have a minute could I ask you for a few tips? Willing to pay of course as I know you’re a busy man. Thanks again!
Hey hey, that makes me super happy to hear! There is a link to my Patreon in the description and you can join my Discord through that. I will be more than happy to assist you with pretty much anything there
Your videos are awesome. On one hand you are hilarious and explain complex topics in a funny relatable way Your work is amazing and inspirational but present it in way that pushes people to try to reach that level. I can’t imagine how much fun and informative a class taught by you would be Thank you for all that do Your personality shines through on your videos
Airbrush is a cost saver over the long run, compared to the cost of good spray paint primers, such as Citadel.
It's also easier to airbrush in the house during the winter here in Canada. Can't do that with spray paints.
Plus it's more environmentally friendly.
100%. I can airbrush primer, varnish, or anything else whenever I want, instead of waiting for a "good spray day" if I was using cans outside. That's in addition to everything else an airbrush lets you do.
My life has changed since I discovered (thanks to Marco Frisoni) Molotow One4All paints, a.k.a The Airbrushable Non-Toxic Primer. I didn't like polyurethane surface primers on my airbrush, so I saw Marco using those as primers and I decided to give it a go. You don't need to dilute them, they have great coverage and you have a pretty decent color range.
The main reason I'm considering one is for undercoating and zenithal, as I live in a small flat within a building that opens on to the street- no garden for me, sadly 😢
The cost of cans was a big factor for me. £13.50 for a can that you have less control over, and paint WILL be wasted as you have to start spraying off the model, drag it across, then let go, to avoid any splatter or clumping. One can usually does one or most of an army, vs one pot of the same colour with an airbrush. Didn't even get an expensive one and it's almost paid for itself by now.
Citadel spray primer that's good. imagine.
I mainly got a cheap airbrush to prime my models, I live in Sweden so 60% of the year it's too cold for rattlecans. Then I learnt a lot with it and now I prefer it to using a brush whenever possible. Not because the results are better necessarily, but I have a lot more fun!
Best Maugan Ra I've seen so far. Gorgeous!
A tip for brush-on priming of models: the primer branded as "Stynylrez" in the US (distributed by Badger) goes on with a brush with great reliability. And dries extremely thin when brushed - little danger of obscuring details. If you're in a position where you cannot spray from either airbrush or rattle can, this stuff is the best alternative I've found to date.
Yes, Stynylrez is great for priming with a brush!
Thanks much for the fantastic walk through. Working on brush control, and definitely going to practice some on bases.
I started painting with oils for any type of colour transitioning and never looked back. I might still get an airbrush in the future, but for now this is all I need. Even though adjusting to the behaviour of oil paints took some time. I can only recommend everyone to at least try oil paints at some point. There are tons of good videos out there to get started.
1:59 I think that particuar "Medioom" is the king of all, ahahah. You're the best guy to listen to whe it comes to minis painters with a strong accent videos 👍🏻 And I'm French, lol (but my accent is over the top. Spent more than 10 years in Shanghai speaking mostly English)
Best resource I've found in years. Keep it up brother
Best mini painting channel period.
I don't think so... Yet 😁 thank you so much though!
im glad you mention the airbrush look on models bc i always feel like im crazy for noticing and not liking it when its prominent 😅
Thank you, Zumikito, for your detailed and interesting tutorials!
Really love the color choices on that model
Having learned this stuff from 'Eavy Metal dudes like 15 years ago, it's great to see it being taught on here. I don't mind the airbrush as a tool for certain things, but too often I see younger hobbyists so convinced that the airbrush is the be-all-end-all that they cause themselves so much more work and frustration trying to use it for things it's not meant for.
I'll base with one, or spray flat vehicle panels, but honestly I hate the sound and lack of fine control for doing much else.
I love using a smaller sized filbert style brush when I wet blend. The half circle tip works really well on large wavy surfaces like capes/cloaks.
Great tip!
@@Zumikito I see what you did there! 😂
Great! Short, informative, interactive!
Somehow as I watched this the way you explained wet blending was rather more clear - I will try this out myself. Sketch reflection/high lights, then choose your colors, then wet blend, colors against each other, then smudging, getting a gradient. Hmmm!
That wet blend technique on the Maugan Ra was really cool to see. I'm going to try it on my first hero's cloak this week.
I still want to try out oil paints but they definitely seem like they are best suited for larger models and busts. This was a great video and can't wait for the next one. Would love to see one on what you've learned about wet blending cuz I've always struggled with it. I'm not entirely sure why. I do think though one of the main reasons is I don't use a larger brush so I'm going to start trying that out.
I seem to notice while painting lately I’ve been kinda gravitating towards wet blending, without noticing. Only issue is if I don’t use a humidifier before I paint, it will dry to fast. Pain in the butt but, cus I am lick my brush, so I don’t use mediums, not sure if they are toxic or not.
Děkuji! I needed this...
I use both spray cans n airbrush. Problems with the former are rougher surfaces , cost (yes spray cans are not cheap) and need for multiple spray cans for different colours.
For wet blending, try retarder, it'll help.
Really useful information thanks for all the tips and tricks
"As much as you touch yourself..." that was... touching 🤣
Super useful information! Thanks a lot!
I have a bunch of friends who are a bit gunshy about getting an airbrush. I'm totally sharing this video with them.
wet blending is amazing!
an easier alternative to oil paints is water soluble oil paints. they dry faster depending on how much water you use to thin them down.
try HOLBEIN DUO aqua if guys are interested.
@Zumikito Miniatures I would love to know which color recipe are you using for the orange in the weapon
Im doing some research on the tone, thinking of painting my Aeldari in orange, for the Lugannath craftworld
Thanks for all your content!
Sure thing! So the purple progression on the cloak is like this: Basecoat of mix Dark Sea blue + hexed lichen and then it goes like - hexed lichen, magenta and pastel pink. These paints are vallejo and AK interactive btw. Then, I add Burned orange on top of the magenta/pastel pink layer and add final highlight of pastel peach (both oranges are from AK interactive). Somewhere I added vermillion to shades, but not on the highlights. That's it
@@Zumikito I asked about the orange :D
(But I'm gonna try that purple too!)
@@Zumikito thanks man! Fast answer 😃
I appreciate this video. Im a thousand sons guy so most of my minis are pretty small. Im glad to know that i have alternatives to an airbrush since i cant afford one rn XD.
Another great video. I wet blend a heap, mainly when I can’t be bothered to get the air brush out. Perfect for small or hard to reach areas. I think what is amazing about this paint job is the colour selection. I feel like you nailed this part and will catch a lot of peoples eye’s because you got the basics (colour theory) right. Did you use any other colours to the ones showed in the video or were they just the colours used on the cloak? Ty
One thing that I find important about my airbrush is that I don't have to worry about the weather when I'm priming my models, plus it makes for a fast basecoat.
0:55 You should try tamiya flat white,you'll get a much more even, smoother coverage from your airbrush.
Just an fyi, if you both hate wet blending (like me) and still want to achieve these incredibly fine glazes easily, try getting a smaller needle for your airbrush. I started using a 0.2mm needle on my Iwata eclipse and just that alongside bringing the air pressure down allowed me to effortlessly glaze and layer on pieces as small as a space marine head. Obviously can't get to the level of precision of a paintbrush, but depending on your particular style that might not even be necessary for anything except edge highlighting or freehand.
The iwata eclipse can't house a 0.2 sized needle though?
Thanks for the info. Very useful 😉
Please tell us the brand of shirt you wear…I need tight sleeves…or I guess bigger arms
Brilliant - Thanks for sharing!
Man, I hope you are a scientist or an engineer in your day job, because you are a damn fine scientist.
Although it's not a technique I've tried yet (I'm still a noob to mini painting but have many years experience painting models) wet blending seems a perfectly obvious method. Rather than using more thinners to extend the working time of acrylics it would be better to use retarder - that's exactly what it's for! I have to use retarder in my airbrush mixes as my work area is usually quite warm and causes clogging, tip drying and "sandpaper" surface finishes if I don't use it (particularly with vallejo paint).
How coincidental, I just brought a Maugan Ra today and got it primed up.
Great video my friend.
What size airbrush needles are you using? I do priming with a .4 or .5 needle, painting with a .2 or .3 needle, and very fine detail with .15 needle.
I use a Badger Patriot for general work and a mix of Badger's Sotor 20/20 and Harder and Steenbeck Infinity+ for detail.
Excellent, would their be any chance you could do a vid on painting accurately,,cheers
I’m a simple man. I see zumikito, I click like
0:30 this really made me laugh xD
Too late, I already use airbrush, but I agree with your points - it's not for everything and not for everyone.
clean up longer than painting really prevents me from painting regulary with my AB... which in turn leads to more cleaning because im not in a regular working (and cleaning) routine...
in the end loaded brush was the technique that really made me speed paint some 100 skaven warriors on a high standard in a shortish time, not the airbrush
Tbh I think an airbrush is a wise investment even if all you want to do is base coat stuff. It’s way quicker and easier (once you get the hang of it) than base coating by hand and gives a far superior finish.
Zumikito, how do you feel about adding retarder medium to paints when wet blending? Do you think it extends the drying time too much?
Sure, why not. It's similar to thinner, just don't add too much
Without slo-dri medium, its nearly impossible to wetblend. The desert is not a great place to do it because how dry it is here
Awesome video. I always want to go paint after watching you. Won't retarder medium help? On the mini before and mixed with the paint?
It will help. Not sure how it's gonna behave on the mini, but adding it to paint is similar solution to adding thinner
@@Zumikito Great. Thanks for the response.
Hey :) Thank You for putting effort in creating those videos! I've learned a lot from them. Although i have a question about wet blending: I've heard something about "Arcylic Retarder" - it can slow down paint drying. Is it better to use water or acrylic retarder for wet blending? 😉
You can use both. It is true that retarder has the ability to prolong the drying time, so yea. Using the thinner mentioned in the video also works
@@Zumikito Thank You for Your help! 😁
The paint job is very reminiscent of a guy called Dillon Cartier. Beautiful stuff.
6:17 - I'm sorry, I shouldn't tease you about your accent, but it sounds like you said that we can fart on our miniatures. 🤭😂
Spray cans, that elusive thing that's not in my country xD
Airbrush is great for fast painting of large scenery pieces.
Do you know if this works with citidel paints?
It will to an extent, but you have to add that thinner to keep them workable for longer
Don't Thinners accelerate how quickly paint dries? Wouldn't Flow improvers work better for wet blending as they decelerate the drying times.
I'm getting an Airbrush literally only because I hate the rattle cans. The weather has to be right, the distance has to be right, the can temperature has to be right, gotta watch to only hit with your mid stream because if you screw any of these up, you'll end up with cracked primer, texture of paint or even partially melted surface. So much shit that can go wrong because of the propellant.
Personally I think every painter has to develop his own style, painters can paint very artistically and/or technically. Compare a painting from Van Gogh vs Dali, in my opinion Van Gogh is more crude and artistically than a Dali painting but still full in its value. For example Blanchitsu is very artisticly and very pleasing to the eye but less refined.
bought airbrush and airbrushed my hand more than the model. working as intended 🥇
YES!
Also, acrylic retarder helps with wet blending. I just use it all the time instead of a wet pallet. I have this little bottle of Vallejo retarder I've been using, and I think I've gone through a quarter of it. Granted, I don't paint a lot, but having it in a little squeeze dropper is helpful, and you don't use a lot, so it tends to go a long way. It also adds some transparency as a bonus for blends.
yes!
Personally, I'd just like an airbrush to prime models. I'm getting sick and tired, mostly just sick, of huffing propellants.
I don t know how to play or paint and here i am…watching…
Eeeeeeeh, ciaone, as if i will ever be able to paint that well XD.
You should tell your viewers how much actual time it took you as a professional painter vs an amateur, because those transitions are very technical and take tons of muscle memory to do that tiny blend within 20 minutes to get it to look seamless, when it could easily take an amateur over 2 hours and not get the results you got; that kind of brush work to get those blends takes thousands of hours of work in that short of time without an airbrush.
Literally bought an airbrush last week. Too late, dude!
i love how everybody says airbrushes take a long time to clean up... i get mine out and put it away multiple times a day when im painting... takes me a couple mins to clean up and put it away... i wish people would stop saying it takes so LOONG to clean up... it scares people away from a great tool
But if u are wet blending one model in comparison the airbrush dose take a lot longer due to setting it up and cleaning it out. There is ways around it like just leave it set up and let airbrush cleaner sit in the cup until u want it next witch will stop paint from drying in the cup
@@liamhgd581 no... Mines sitting on my desk... So set up is just flipping a switch on the compressor... And it only takes 30 seconds to clean it out of it isn't a long long session
Zumikito: airbrush on a big scale models makes "aidbrushed look", gradient looks to perfect, kindasorta not credible
Night Shift: *spinin' furiously*
Solvent in acrylic paint i thought it was an emulsion
7:56 😂😂😮💨😮💨😰🥲
Also vehicles.... not everyone is hendarion doing everything hand painted...
I think it's OKAY to use rattle cans, but you literally can't equate them. The smoothness is not even close. You can see the speckle pattern even in these videos. For sure it's fine, but if you want the best outcome, you literally need an airbrush. Also, rattle can zenithal looks like butt.
looks like your having a bit of an issue with spitting on your airbrush.
It's just that I didn't add thinner, that's all
Just need to add in here that the money you save priming and varnishing with an airbrush over rattlecans will pay for the airbrush in less than a year for most of us hobbyists. From then on you will have extra money to spend on miniatures.
One bottle of airbrush primer primes as much as 3-4 cans of spray. On bottle of airbrush primer is what? $9? Do the math.
I touch my minis.....a lot. 🤣
More time cleaning? Nonsense
TOO LATE
nothing turns me off of a mini's paint job than that horrible obvious airbrush look.
Dat title Spelling and grammar...
Yes 👌
But coding is my craft ;_;