I love how you understand the need to understand how a bow works to understand how each thing changes things. I had a old co-worker tell me, once you know how to troubleshoot something, you can troubleshoot anything. And the key thing that is needed to troubleshoot something is knowing how something works, you troubleshoot a bow, a computer, a car and a human body all the same way, you understand how each of those things work, how each part functions, what normal behavior is for each part and what abnormal behavior is. You also need to know why the normal behavior is normal, what causes it to be normal, and what can cause abnormal behavior and what is possible abnormal behavior is in certain areas. For example, you take a look at a car and you notice some liquid is leaking, we can already eliminate certain aspects of the car immediately even before we look at what kind of liquid that is, like tires etc. Because we know tires don't have liquid in them. Its a very basic concept but people far too often forget these basic concepts and waste so much time because of it.
@@user-qp6dh8lp9g of course thank you! Most of these things aren’t gonna take someone from being an amateur to a pro by any means. A lot of the stuff might gain you two X’s or one 10 in a tournament, but with that being our job that could to be the difference between making $20,000 or zero dollars. So when you think of it from that level, we kinda have to put in the time and effort to make sure everything‘s as good as it possibly can be, because every X matters. If I was just doing this for fun again, I could cut out so much of the BS and still be good. And probably put up scores so similar it would piss me off that I put in on this effort for so long. But also my motto is if someone beats me I know it’s not gonna be because they out worked me. I’ll always know I did everything I could to give myself the best chance to win.
I really appreciate that some of the same principles and techniques that were taught to me in my early teenage years in the early 90s are still being applied and used at the very top level today. Sound wisdom never gets old or goes out of style.
@@o.n.e.wayhunting 100%! The bows still work the same way, so there’s only so much you can do that’s different ya know? I don’t think much of any of it has changed since back in the day. All the same principles still apply :)
Great info Paige! The things you and Tim share are extremely valuable and you do it free. Thank you! Now please clue us in on the cable guard on your bow, it definitely isn't a standard Bowtech Flx Guard.
I just want you to know that you o0ened up a whole other world to my archery. As mainly a hunter I would get my bow shooting very well and consistently but now since I'm getting back involved for target and hunt8ng more seriously I hope to get my equipment tuned the best I've ever tuned.
Tiller changes also affect the nock travel plane upon release not just nock heigth because the top limb, in this instance is pulling harder on the string than the bottom limb and it will take the string in slightly faster . This can also be beneficial when bareshaft tuning ......test everything like the boss says .
Welcome to another episode of Paige Pearce the archery science girl on todays episode we will blow your mind and all the micro adjustments we can make with limbbolt turns, string twists, nock heights and stabilizer setup and how it changes everything drastically
After the last tournament at the weekend, I turned the lower limbs out to -1 (they were completely tightened). I then corrected the arrow rest according to the DLoop position. Just to see if I like the feel better and the bow feels more stable. I didn't notice the extension of the draw length directly, but I didn't check it either... I also suspect that a tiller change does not have the same effect on all bows. The limbs of some modern compound bows in particular have a shallow angle and short limbs and I suspect it is most likely to have an effect on shapes that resemble a recurve limb position design. My indoor bow is currently an old PSE from 2018, where this would apply (similar to a Bowtech, OK, etc). At a Elite or Mathews I wouldn't be so sure.
Hi, if possible; could you make a part 3 on the d loop series. I'm curious how you tie your d loop on and how you later loosen it up and tie nock points within? Thanks. Matt
@@markusamann5780 I always torque tune every bow. This one is already torque tuned. I do that from the beginning. And I don’t have bow’s with yolks here all the Bowtechs have deadlock. But all you do is just lean the cam. If you have a left tear, you put twists into the left yolk or take out of the right yolk. Opposite for right. And then just a little tip if you for example are trying to fix a left tear and you put like 1 twist into the left, if you also take a twist out of the right (yes that’s leaning your cam even more so keep that in mind for tuning adjustments) it’ll keep your DL, timing, and poundage as close to the same as possible. So it’s a lot like the tiller example I gave. If you wanted to fix a tiny left tear, put a 1/2 into the left and take a 1/2 out of the right. That leaned your cam bit will be essentially the same on your timing, DL, and Poundage. If you do everything on the same side then it’s changing all of that!
@ So what is your recommendation for cam tuning? Should the cams be straight when drawn (i.e. in line with the string) so that the maximum energy is transferred to the arrow or should the cam lean be as low as possible in the initial state? For people who don't have a bow for indoor and outdoor use, should I torque tune the bow again depending on the distance shot? And yes i am aware of it that there is a dependency between Cam and Rest Position if you papertune 😎
It looks like a game of thimbles-I twist and twist to confuse you.) Your bareshaft is not perfect, but the bow shoots well. I can set up a bareshaft like yours, but will my bow shoot as well as yours, that's the question, or do I need to look for my position. It's all good if, with this setup, the broadheads will fly well.
So , with your tiller being different … you group tune afterwards by moving your rest in and out ?… and don’t ever bareshaft through paper at that point?
The first year of tuning you don't mess with the arrow rest, that procedure is included during the second year. The first year you iron out the D loop height, tiller and twisting strings/cables until you go mad. Only after you go mad should you begin to hone the cam lean, final draw length and holding weight IMO. The third year of tuning a bow involves stabilizers and regulating your meds.
This is my question too - with a hunting rig do you not bother going for maximal forgiveness in these ways because once you do by messing with tiller and such, can you get broadheads to impact with fieldpoints?
@@tonyviers-de9qi with changing the tiller, I shot the bareshaft to see where that was impacting so you saw that in the video. That is me “checking the tune”. It was close to where I normally end up running them anyway so I just started again from there. When I start normal I usually start with my bare shaft about bottom of the 10 then work around. But group tuning involves moving the rest up and down and left and right. It’s all the directions because you don’t know which one is best till you test it. I have lots of group tuning saves on my Instagram in the random tip highlights so if you want visuals and explanations, go there and check it out! And I don’t really ever shoot a bare shaft through paper. Paper is a waste of time. I’m shooting the bare shaft at 20 yards (or 60 yards for outdoor skinny arrows, and 50 yards for my 23’s for ASA) so that is telling you more than the paper ever will. Paper is a start. Bareshaft tells you way more than the paper. So in this video when I said about the you know peoples skill level by how they describe tune, my bareshaft ended up staying right where it was in the video and the bow is shooting insanely good. Probably the best targets of my life right now. So it is tuned because it’s shooting good and forgiving. But if you shot it through paper it would probably have a high right tear because it has a low left bareshaft. But again the high level tuning isnt to have a perfect bullet hole or bareshaft impact. It’s to shoot good, and that’s where this one is shooting best. That IG highlight has a lot of good group tuning stuff in there for anyone who wants more info!
@@danyoder3534 depends on your cam system. Mine are slaved together so no. But there’s so many types of cams out there the safe answer for everyone is just yes, check it to be safe. :)
I think one thing worth mentioning for some viewers is this is really only related to fieldpoints and target archery from a tuning aspect. Fixed Broadheads ain’t flying well with the current position of that bareshft which I’m positive you already know I’m sure you’ve got lots of hunters viewing though. My question would be why not just add half a twist to each limb bolt raise your d loop and add a twist to the aim string? That’s essentially all the things u changed. You would go up in poundage down in draw length and up in holding weight. I guess how would that differ from using the limb bolt I’d be interested in talking about. It can be done in the micro with both methods You obviously may end up fighting with the peep is one reason depending on how micro you we’re trying to shorten the DL
And things like this folks is exactly why this lady has become a highly accomplished WORLD CLASS ARCHER! 👍👍👍👍😍
I love how you understand the need to understand how a bow works to understand how each thing changes things. I had a old co-worker tell me, once you know how to troubleshoot something, you can troubleshoot anything. And the key thing that is needed to troubleshoot something is knowing how something works, you troubleshoot a bow, a computer, a car and a human body all the same way, you understand how each of those things work, how each part functions, what normal behavior is for each part and what abnormal behavior is. You also need to know why the normal behavior is normal, what causes it to be normal, and what can cause abnormal behavior and what is possible abnormal behavior is in certain areas. For example, you take a look at a car and you notice some liquid is leaking, we can already eliminate certain aspects of the car immediately even before we look at what kind of liquid that is, like tires etc. Because we know tires don't have liquid in them. Its a very basic concept but people far too often forget these basic concepts and waste so much time because of it.
The amount of time a Pro archer spends tuning their bow compared to a club archer, (me), is mind boggling. Thanks for the video
@@user-qp6dh8lp9g of course thank you! Most of these things aren’t gonna take someone from being an amateur to a pro by any means. A lot of the stuff might gain you two X’s or one 10 in a tournament, but with that being our job that could to be the difference between making $20,000 or zero dollars. So when you think of it from that level, we kinda have to put in the time and effort to make sure everything‘s as good as it possibly can be, because every X matters. If I was just doing this for fun again, I could cut out so much of the BS and still be good. And probably put up scores so similar it would piss me off that I put in on this effort for so long. But also my motto is if someone beats me I know it’s not gonna be because they out worked me. I’ll always know I did everything I could to give myself the best chance to win.
@@PaigePearceinsight you fascinate me beyond words. If I was about 50 years younger---
I really appreciate that some of the same principles and techniques that were taught to me in my early teenage years in the early 90s are still being applied and used at the very top level today. Sound wisdom never gets old or goes out of style.
@@o.n.e.wayhunting 100%! The bows still work the same way, so there’s only so much you can do that’s different ya know? I don’t think much of any of it has changed since back in the day. All the same principles still apply :)
Great info Paige! The things you and Tim share are extremely valuable and you do it free. Thank you! Now please clue us in on the cable guard on your bow, it definitely isn't a standard Bowtech Flx Guard.
Walking through your indoor- outdoor- and hunting set ups would make for a great book!
I just want you to know that you o0ened up a whole other world to my archery. As mainly a hunter I would get my bow shooting very well and consistently but now since I'm getting back involved for target and hunt8ng more seriously I hope to get my equipment tuned the best I've ever tuned.
Tiller changes also affect the nock travel plane upon release not just nock heigth because the top limb, in this instance is pulling harder on the string than the bottom limb and it will take the string in slightly faster . This can also be beneficial when bareshaft tuning ......test everything like the boss says .
Welcome to another episode of Paige Pearce the archery science girl on todays episode we will blow your mind and all the micro adjustments we can make with limbbolt turns, string twists, nock heights and stabilizer setup and how it changes everything drastically
After the last tournament at the weekend, I turned the lower limbs out to -1 (they were completely tightened).
I then corrected the arrow rest according to the DLoop position. Just to see if I like the feel better and the bow feels more stable.
I didn't notice the extension of the draw length directly, but I didn't check it either...
I also suspect that a tiller change does not have the same effect on all bows. The limbs of some modern compound bows in particular have a shallow angle and short limbs and I suspect it is most likely to have an effect on shapes that resemble a recurve limb position design. My indoor bow is currently an old PSE from 2018, where this would apply (similar to a Bowtech, OK, etc). At a Elite or Mathews I wouldn't be so sure.
Paige u the man!!!!
Hi, if possible; could you make a part 3 on the d loop series. I'm curious how you tie your d loop on and how you later loosen it up and tie nock points within? Thanks. Matt
Hi Paige, did you do any re-timing to your bow after the tiller tuning? What is the reason to do/not do it?
could you make a video on cam lean tuning?
And are you torque tuning your bow again for the indoor season?
@@markusamann5780 I always torque tune every bow. This one is already torque tuned. I do that from the beginning. And I don’t have bow’s with yolks here all the Bowtechs have deadlock. But all you do is just lean the cam. If you have a left tear, you put twists into the left yolk or take out of the right yolk. Opposite for right. And then just a little tip if you for example are trying to fix a left tear and you put like 1 twist into the left, if you also take a twist out of the right (yes that’s leaning your cam even more so keep that in mind for tuning adjustments) it’ll keep your DL, timing, and poundage as close to the same as possible. So it’s a lot like the tiller example I gave. If you wanted to fix a tiny left tear, put a 1/2 into the left and take a 1/2 out of the right. That leaned your cam bit will be essentially the same on your timing, DL, and Poundage. If you do everything on the same side then it’s changing all of that!
@ So what is your recommendation for cam tuning? Should the cams be straight when drawn (i.e. in line with the string) so that the maximum energy is transferred to the arrow or should the cam lean be as low as possible in the initial state?
For people who don't have a bow for indoor and outdoor use, should I torque tune the bow again depending on the distance shot?
And yes i am aware of it that there is a dependency between Cam and Rest Position if you papertune 😎
Looking for a bow tech long axle to axle left hand low let off. Left hand finger shooter
It looks like a game of thimbles-I twist and twist to confuse you.) Your bareshaft is not perfect, but the bow shoots well. I can set up a bareshaft like yours, but will my bow shoot as well as yours, that's the question, or do I need to look for my position. It's all good if, with this setup, the broadheads will fly well.
So , with your tiller being different … you group tune afterwards by moving your rest in and out ?… and don’t ever bareshaft through paper at that point?
The first year of tuning you don't mess with the arrow rest, that procedure is included during the second year. The first year you iron out the D loop height, tiller and twisting strings/cables until you go mad. Only after you go mad should you begin to hone the cam lean, final draw length and holding weight IMO. The third year of tuning a bow involves stabilizers and regulating your meds.
This is my question too - with a hunting rig do you not bother going for maximal forgiveness in these ways because once you do by messing with tiller and such, can you get broadheads to impact with fieldpoints?
@jthepickle7
I really hope this is a joke😀
@@liamboyle9199 Well of course it's a joke! It only takes about three months, and some alcohol, to tune a bow.
@@tonyviers-de9qi with changing the tiller, I shot the bareshaft to see where that was impacting so you saw that in the video. That is me “checking the tune”. It was close to where I normally end up running them anyway so I just started again from there. When I start normal I usually start with my bare shaft about bottom of the 10 then work around. But group tuning involves moving the rest up and down and left and right. It’s all the directions because you don’t know which one is best till you test it. I have lots of group tuning saves on my Instagram in the random tip highlights so if you want visuals and explanations, go there and check it out! And I don’t really ever shoot a bare shaft through paper. Paper is a waste of time. I’m shooting the bare shaft at 20 yards (or 60 yards for outdoor skinny arrows, and 50 yards for my 23’s for ASA) so that is telling you more than the paper ever will. Paper is a start. Bareshaft tells you way more than the paper. So in this video when I said about the you know peoples skill level by how they describe tune, my bareshaft ended up staying right where it was in the video and the bow is shooting insanely good. Probably the best targets of my life right now. So it is tuned because it’s shooting good and forgiving. But if you shot it through paper it would probably have a high right tear because it has a low left bareshaft. But again the high level tuning isnt to have a perfect bullet hole or bareshaft impact. It’s to shoot good, and that’s where this one is shooting best. That IG highlight has a lot of good group tuning stuff in there for anyone who wants more info!
If you change your nick height do you need to retime the cams
@@danyoder3534 depends on your cam system. Mine are slaved together so no. But there’s so many types of cams out there the safe answer for everyone is just yes, check it to be safe. :)
@ okay I check. Thanks for the reply back
Carmex.....
I think one thing worth mentioning for some viewers is this is really only related to fieldpoints and target archery from a tuning aspect.
Fixed Broadheads ain’t flying well with the current position of that bareshft which I’m positive you already know I’m sure you’ve got lots of hunters viewing though.
My question would be why not just add half a twist to each limb bolt raise your d loop and add a twist to the aim string? That’s essentially all the things u changed.
You would go up in poundage down in draw length and up in holding weight.
I guess how would that differ from using the limb bolt I’d be interested in talking about. It can be done in the micro with both methods
You obviously may end up fighting with the peep is one reason depending on how micro you we’re trying to shorten the DL