Fantastic video. Just installed my CSL DD and has this exact same question on PEAK vs Linear. Your explanation matches with my impression. Linear feels smoother, more like a real world car, and the feedback are more subtle but also more immediate.
Dude this linear setup is the best setup ever. Thank you. I play on series X and ffb is little bit mess after latest update. I’ve just put dynamic dumping little bit lower it was too high on my taste. Now its perfect. I feel everything what my car is doing. Thank you once again!
Excellent ;-) Was doing setting for Dirt Rally 2.0, then Assetto with your settings ! ;-) I prefer Linear as well when turning and feeling the track. Now looking for Kartkraft
Great job, setting 2, with linear mode is much better than another one. Now I am using this settings. I would like that you made a video showing a good settings for rfactor 2
Awesome!! Weaker is absolutely not a bad thing, many simracers go for strong and harsh FFB which just makes it harder to feel the fine nuances and differences... !
I use settings 2 for my dd pro 8nm on Gran Turismo 7, and it’s the best settings I’ve found so far. The wheel still oscillates in high speed straight line but it’s less severe than Fanatec’s suggested settings.
Regarding the LINEAR mode... I wouldnt recommend it. It Limits the Torque to 4Nm when using default small PSU and to 6Nm when using the Boost Kit... So you lose 1Nm or even 2Nm depending on the used PSU... So the LINEAR settings are not good imo. However, the Peak settings are good. I use pretty much the same but with INT set to 3 and FEI to 80 (where you use INT set to 2 and FEI 70), 80 FEI gives quite a bit more Details and the harsh Peaks can be filtered out nicely with INT 3.
@@momorious Same, I tried Linear yesterday with my CSL DD Boost and it felt so weak I could have driven a lap with my little finger so I switched right back to Peak. I like to feel the weight of my car so I know when I'm losing grip because it goes light, with Linear everything was just too light so it felt like the car had its front wheels off the ground constantly.
@@momorious theres what's called FFB multiplier. Almost all sims have it. Works wonder for linear setting vs peak setting. Every sim setup should be linear as real cars steer in linear torque not like a rubberband effect.
@@abuelb Doesnt change the fact that you only introduce more Clipping with raising FFB multiplier and Clipping is introduced very quickly when the Base is set to Linear which would cut everything above 6Nm and 6Nm isnt that much...
Hi sir! Thanks a lot for this video. I am using linear always but with 25% dynamic damping in acc. Just 5% more than what feels weird, while rolling the wheels left and right and seeing it wobble. With 25 this effects is cancelled
Is there any update for 1.9? I think FFB feels a little different since the update. And does someone has a link to R&D Racing which Boonatix mentioned at the beginning of linear setting? The linear setting is very good.
Shame you can't have a mix of the two but i find the linear too weak and floppy but i do agree, the peak can feel a bit jolty. I am sticking with the peak for now but it was good to try something new....
my settings for it are press F5 to refresh the store page and see that they are still sold out, because they sent all the ones they made to streamers to flog their vaporware.
hello good morning, greetings champion. a question the csl dd you have it with the source of 5nm or 8nm for that configuration ???? I have the 5nm dd csl. Thank you
Nice video. One thing that is still holding me off buying the CSL DD is its strength. Since I'm that kind of person who prefers the second settings I wonder whether the lin mode would not make the wheelbase feel too weak. As current owner of a CSW2.5 I have achieved the same feeling you describe as relevant to the second set of settings by turning down the FEI and increasing the internal friction using DRI as suggested by another youtuber. This way the strength is just enough but then, again, it might be that the CSL DD would lose too much.
It is all in the huge difference of a DD versus a belt / gear driven base... it is so much more smoother, detailed and pronounced and less rough, no rattling
@@Boonatix yeah but that's the point. I feel like right now with my settings I have got no issue at all in terms of rattling and smoothness. The only thing I miss now is just a bit more strength and I wonder whether the CSL DD would provide me with an upgrade in this respect
@@robertosantoro9685 Honestly I think it would not be that much of an upgarde... more a really fine addition on top of what you already have. Plus the CSL DD does not get hot, has no fans for cooling, is absolutely silent... if that is of any interest of course ;)
I cannot get my wheel Mclaren to connect to my CSL DD even after an update and setup. It keeps saying, cannot sync or connect to Xbox. Can you help me.
Hi, I like how you explain the settings. My Problem Problem was that the wheel started to wobble on the straight, I need to try that 2nd Setup, maybe it will help me to fix that wobble Problem.
Sure, everyone has different preferences :) I see a pattern in most simracers, going for stronger FFB as it might give the impression they feel more - wh ich is why I present the Linear setting for something else, it might be an eye opener to some ^^
Hey mate, I've been struggling with the Rev-meter and LED displays on my Formula Carbon. In F1 2021 I can only get the displays to work in CSW 2.5 compatibility mode but in ACC I cannot get them displayed at all. Did you make any software changes to get them? Are you running your CSL DD in compatibility mode as well?
My McLaren wheel has no lights for that, and yes I am still using it in Compatibility Mode... it works perfectly like that since I got it and I honestly do not want to change it to not screw anything up ^^
Mich würde ja interessieren ob dein Lenkrad außerhalb des Games irgend eine Art Feedback gibt in Form von Vibration oder dergleichen.... In Game hielt ich das fur die Straßentextur aber es ist auch minimal außerhalb. Und dann noch eine weitere Frage ... Lenkrad ausgeschaltet und dann lenken .... Merkst du irgendwas oder ist es super geschmeidig ? :) bei mir fühlt es sich an wie ein ganz ganz leichtes Zahnrad und der Quick Release ist minimal unwichtig . Danke !
Also wenn ich das CSL DD einschalte ist nichts zu spüren. Kein vibrieren, gar nichts. Und wenn es ausgeschalten ist, dreht es sich vollständig und geschmeidig immer weiter! Das klingt bei dir leider irgendwie nach einem Verarbeitungsfehler :(
@@cr4cki680 hi, danke für die schnelle Antwort. Ich habe heute mit Fanatec gesprochen und sie schicken mir eine andere Wheelbase. Bin gespannt, ob die sich anders anfühlt. Freundliche Grüße aus Wien.
I have noticed since this last vid that ACC now has Damper and Dynamic Dampening. Do all of these settings still apply and have you made any adjustments for the new values? Thanks
I appreciate the content, but as a new sim racer using this same system, I am confused as to what the Fanatec control panel settings should be, then the Fanalab settings, and then finally we get to game specific settings such as for ACC as presented here. ??? So lost.
You actually do not need Fanalab, only what I show here :) The Fanatec settings and the ACC ingame settings... try it out as explained and let me know if you need further help!
Jo, des hab ich gemeint! Ich bin mit der CSL DD von meinem G27 umgestiegen und hab mich schon die ganze Zeit gewundert, daß dieses elende Display bei mir net geht, jetzt hab ich mal aus Versehen die diese Option bei ACC eingestellt 6nd nun geht's auch ☝😂😂
I really like the linear Setting but is it possible that there have been more Updates? I tried it hat FFB Strenght 100% there is no way to Turn the wheel. It is way to hard. Sweet Spot for me now is 40-50%. Anyone else experiencing this?
umm... im not really sure about ffb not being realistic. What you feel in a real car through the steering wheel is called self-aligning torque and it has 3 components: 1. pneumatic trail (self aligning caused by the tire stretching and flexing) 2. mechanical trail, caused by the caster angle of the suspension. 3. gyroscopic effects, caused by the rotation of the wheel at higher speeds. Most if not every racing game/sim is implementing self aligning torque only, unless it explicitly states that it mixes in more things, for example, irFFB for iRacing clearly adds a SoP effect which is not realistic, since you wouldnt feel it through the steering wheel of the car, but your body instead. Driving based on self aligning torque only is very much possible and it contains all the necessary information about the movement of the car. It just takes time to learn it and to get used to it. To see all this, one could look at how drifting is done in AC. Simdrifting is all about letting the wheel go to self align and rotate on its own, and catching it at the right time, and guess what, this is exactly how its done IRL. The best IRL drifters dont drive based on body feel only, they have perfect, calm control over their steering wheel with minimal corrections, and they never forcefully rotate the wheel. If what you said was true (FFB not being realistic) then drifting in sims would not be possible since the wheel would not self align to where it should be. If someone wants more than self-aligning, they should get a motion rig, instead of causing confusion by forcing effects into the ffb which would not be felt through the wheel in a real car. Regarding your settings: Not using 100% FEI can and will cause latency. This is clearly stated by Fanatec themselfs on their forums. FEI was developed with the intention of reducing rattling on older CSL Elite wheelbases. Latency is bad for obvious reasons, and its the number 1 cause of oscillations. Fanatec recommends using higher interpolation instead of using lower FEI on DD wheelbases. INT has almost the same effects but doesnt cause nearly as much latency as low FEI.
I'm struggling a little bit in finding the correct settings for me. I started with a high force feedback setting but I found it makes me slower and after a couple of hours my hands start to hurt because I'm holding the steering wheel too tight to control it. I started dialing things down but I lose some detail in the process. I find the spring effect too strong in high speed turns and the rest of the effects too weak in comparison.
Hey do you know if there is a CSL DD for PS4 in production or something similar? I only have a PS4 and realise that all the DD wheels are on Xbox and PC which kinda bummed me out seeing as I've recently bought the racing games on PS4. Noob mistake. Why are PS4 so behind?
@@Boonatix I've emailed Fanatec today about it. I just find it a bit odd that PS4 don't have any good wheels. Even CSL elite seems to be discontinued cause I can't even find that now. Might have to rebuy the games on PC or put up with Thrustmaster :(
@@ry4bfggfd id go the pc rout my dude. games on pc go on sale like its black friday every week, just throw em on ur wish list on steam and build ur collection as they go on sale
@@chadenmccrindle3524 Yes I need to get a PC too for the good stuff like Automobolista, rFactor, Raceroom, live for speed, beamiNG, iRacing (if I ever get good enough), but I want to keep the Gran Turismo franchise available to me. Therefore the Podium Racing wheel F1 is an option, but then I need a rig to hold it and it's doing my head in. Maybe I should just get a thrustmaster and keep it basic.
Because it gets synced automatically once you use 1080 on both... you can adapt it manually to match the angle of each car but it is absolutely not necessary!
@@Boonatix I'm pretty sure this is not correct. As there is a noticable difference in how a car behaves when I set it to let's say 520 degrees for Lexus or whatever, or leave at 900.
@@joei4ever it is actually common knowledge and confirmed by developer like Aris as well. But no worries, I always suggest to use what feels best to yourself, so if it suits you better to adapt the angle just go for it :)
@@joei4ever As long as you have both in Driver and in Game set at the same value you are good to go. Don't put 540 in Driver and live the game in 900 / 1080. This works, but it's just setting a different steering ration (an option you have in the car tuning menu if you need a more steery car). If you want to be idealist, you can look at the real steering values of the car you are driving and set this as a max - for example , the Mercedes is 640o , so i have both the game and the driver set to 640o
@@BoonatixI mean realistic in terms of direct connection to the road, with very responsive feel and complete control of the car, not the car controlling you where you have to fight the car steering or countersteer. Also, no pendulum, rubberband effect where the weight the wheel is to light on a straight and gets really heavy as soon as you turn the wheel. It should be very linear with good weight all around including at the center position. If youve driven a car with hydraulic steering, the weight is distributed fairly even all around with slightly heavier feel as you turn. Your set up is a little loose and bouncy like a rubberband effect.
@@kOBR4one if you're on PC, it's one of those binding buttons at the very bottom of screen. Max is 1.5. You can adjust as you drive or onced in gameplay
I just got my CSL DD, I’m the description of this vid, you said you have no use for the new damper setting ingame since 1.8, does this mean I have to set it to 0% or keep it at default 50%? @boonatix
@@Boonatix yeah it was in the vids description but I wasn’t sure, I’ll try it out…..felt already way better then the “peak” setting. So Tnx, I’ll leave a like 👍🏻
Fantastic video. Just installed my CSL DD and has this exact same question on PEAK vs Linear. Your explanation matches with my impression. Linear feels smoother, more like a real world car, and the feedback are more subtle but also more immediate.
Dude this linear setup is the best setup ever. Thank you. I play on series X and ffb is little bit mess after latest update. I’ve just put dynamic dumping little bit lower it was too high on my taste. Now its perfect. I feel everything what my car is doing. Thank you once again!
Getting my csl dd in a few days... Gonna try these settings. Thanks for giving us two great options to play with. Super excited
Setting #2 (linear) is phenomenal.
As a primarily endurance racer, I feel like this linear setting will be perfect for long driving sessions
Thank you for the video and offering two versions. I prefer the peak but I appreciate different styles being offered.
I tried and it did help me much, I did chose the 2nd Setting, thanks a lot 🏁🌍😎✌️
Awesome, thanks for letting me know Tobias
Damn, I am excited to use this linear setting that everyone in the comments seems to love… will be trying it out as soon as I get home from work 🙌🏼
very well explained, thank you for the informations! Still waiting for my ordered CSL DD.
thankyou, i just got my CSL DD and will try your settings ASAP. Great vid keep them coming.
Well done. Nice addition and explanation to settings on the wheel. I will try a couple of your suggestions.
Excellent ;-) Was doing setting for Dirt Rally 2.0, then Assetto with your settings ! ;-) I prefer Linear as well when turning and feeling the track. Now looking for Kartkraft
Great job, setting 2, with linear mode is much better than another one. Now I am using this settings. I would like that you made a video showing a good settings for rfactor 2
Wow, I’ve tweaked the settings a bit but linear mode is the way to go, I drift in ac and it’s so much better in this mode thank you
Nice one, gonna try the second linear based settings and see how it feels
Cant wait to try this setting tomorrow
Really like the linear settings - feels weaker but it finally fixed my Oscillation issues and hits into the steering. Top!
Awesome!! Weaker is absolutely not a bad thing, many simracers go for strong and harsh FFB which just makes it harder to feel the fine nuances and differences... !
Use FFB multiplier in game. Works wonder.
I use settings 2 for my dd pro 8nm on Gran Turismo 7, and it’s the best settings I’ve found so far.
The wheel still oscillates in high speed straight line but it’s less severe than Fanatec’s suggested settings.
The oscillation will be fixed by increasing the INT OR NIN I think its the int .
Just received my GT DD Pro with McLaren Wheel. FFB Settings worked Perfectly!
Enjoy :)
Super useful explanation as usual keerp up the good work and a Happy New Year to you
Thank you :)
Regarding the LINEAR mode... I wouldnt recommend it. It Limits the Torque to 4Nm when using default small PSU and to 6Nm when using the Boost Kit... So you lose 1Nm or even 2Nm depending on the used PSU...
So the LINEAR settings are not good imo.
However, the Peak settings are good. I use pretty much the same but with INT set to 3 and FEI to 80 (where you use INT set to 2 and FEI 70), 80 FEI gives quite a bit more Details and the harsh Peaks can be filtered out nicely with INT 3.
Sure, but that is not actually a bad thing ^-^
@@Boonatix for me it is. 4Nm and also 6Nm just arent enough for a proper DD experience. Feels sooo weak...
@@momorious Same, I tried Linear yesterday with my CSL DD Boost and it felt so weak I could have driven a lap with my little finger so I switched right back to Peak. I like to feel the weight of my car so I know when I'm losing grip because it goes light, with Linear everything was just too light so it felt like the car had its front wheels off the ground constantly.
@@momorious theres what's called FFB multiplier. Almost all sims have it. Works wonder for linear setting vs peak setting. Every sim setup should be linear as real cars steer in linear torque not like a rubberband effect.
@@abuelb Doesnt change the fact that you only introduce more Clipping with raising FFB multiplier and Clipping is introduced very quickly when the Base is set to Linear which would cut everything above 6Nm and 6Nm isnt that much...
Hi sir! Thanks a lot for this video. I am using linear always but with 25% dynamic damping in acc. Just 5% more than what feels weird, while rolling the wheels left and right and seeing it wobble. With 25 this effects is cancelled
Is there any update for 1.9? I think FFB feels a little different since the update. And does someone has a link to R&D Racing which Boonatix mentioned at the beginning of linear setting?
The linear setting is very good.
You hero, and shoutout to your friend for the Linear test! Does the settings change slightly now we're at 400mhz in ACC?
Not so far no :)
Shame you can't have a mix of the two but i find the linear too weak and floppy but i do agree, the peak can feel a bit jolty. I am sticking with the peak for now but it was good to try something new....
Great Setups! Do you have also one for RaceRoom for the CSL DD?
Linear setting is a game changer I wonder why they put peak setting default 🤔
No one will ever understand but that is why I am here then ^-^ Glad it helped!
my settings for it are press F5 to refresh the store page and see that they are still sold out, because they sent all the ones they made to streamers to flog their vaporware.
@Boonatix I saw you braking with the clutch pedal .... or you have swapped the pedal places ? :)
yes I swapped the pedals as the leg position was a bit straining over time... this way it is easier ^^
hello good morning, greetings champion. a question the csl dd you have it with the source of 5nm or 8nm for that configuration ???? I have the 5nm dd csl. Thank you
8nm for me but it should work as well with 5nm :) Just crank up the ingame Gain!
Nice video. One thing that is still holding me off buying the CSL DD is its strength. Since I'm that kind of person who prefers the second settings I wonder whether the lin mode would not make the wheelbase feel too weak. As current owner of a CSW2.5 I have achieved the same feeling you describe as relevant to the second set of settings by turning down the FEI and increasing the internal friction using DRI as suggested by another youtuber. This way the strength is just enough but then, again, it might be that the CSL DD would lose too much.
It is all in the huge difference of a DD versus a belt / gear driven base... it is so much more smoother, detailed and pronounced and less rough, no rattling
@@Boonatix yeah but that's the point. I feel like right now with my settings I have got no issue at all in terms of rattling and smoothness. The only thing I miss now is just a bit more strength and I wonder whether the CSL DD would provide me with an upgrade in this respect
@@robertosantoro9685 Honestly I think it would not be that much of an upgarde... more a really fine addition on top of what you already have. Plus the CSL DD does not get hot, has no fans for cooling, is absolutely silent... if that is of any interest of course ;)
⁸
I cannot get my wheel Mclaren to connect to my CSL DD even after an update and setup. It keeps saying, cannot sync or connect to Xbox. Can you help me.
Hi, I like how you explain the settings.
My Problem Problem was that the wheel started to wobble on the straight, I need to try that 2nd Setup, maybe it will help me to fix that wobble Problem.
Should not happen with my settings! Let me know :)
In the linear setting I put in game gain to 95 and got no clipping. Felt a little better even though prefer at least for now the peak settings.
Sure, everyone has different preferences :) I see a pattern in most simracers, going for stronger FFB as it might give the impression they feel more - wh ich is why I present the Linear setting for something else, it might be an eye opener to some ^^
Hey @Boonatix. How do you get that graph on the HUD seen to the left for the steering angle indicator at 9:26?
Hi Dora, that is ARMAMENTARIO you can find a review of it in my channel and link in description :)
@@Boonatix Thanks for the quick response! I will check it out :)
Hey mate, I've been struggling with the Rev-meter and LED displays on my Formula Carbon. In F1 2021 I can only get the displays to work in CSW 2.5 compatibility mode but in ACC I cannot get them displayed at all. Did you make any software changes to get them? Are you running your CSL DD in compatibility mode as well?
My McLaren wheel has no lights for that, and yes I am still using it in Compatibility Mode... it works perfectly like that since I got it and I honestly do not want to change it to not screw anything up ^^
Mich würde ja interessieren ob dein Lenkrad außerhalb des Games irgend eine Art Feedback gibt in Form von Vibration oder dergleichen.... In Game hielt ich das fur die Straßentextur aber es ist auch minimal außerhalb.
Und dann noch eine weitere Frage ... Lenkrad ausgeschaltet und dann lenken .... Merkst du irgendwas oder ist es super geschmeidig ? :) bei mir fühlt es sich an wie ein ganz ganz leichtes Zahnrad und der Quick Release ist minimal unwichtig .
Danke !
Also wenn ich das CSL DD einschalte ist nichts zu spüren. Kein vibrieren, gar nichts. Und wenn es ausgeschalten ist, dreht es sich vollständig und geschmeidig immer weiter! Das klingt bei dir leider irgendwie nach einem Verarbeitungsfehler :(
Hallo, bei mir fühlt es sich auch so an , mich würde interessieren ob du die Wheelbase ausgetauscht hast und wie es sich jetzt anfühlt.
@@helmutkalis7874 hey,
Ich hab das alles so belassen und Cruise bei ACC rum.
@@cr4cki680 hi, danke für die schnelle Antwort. Ich habe heute mit Fanatec gesprochen und sie schicken mir eine andere Wheelbase. Bin gespannt, ob die sich anders anfühlt. Freundliche Grüße aus Wien.
@@helmutkalis7874 die schicken ne neue wheelbase und dann schickst du die jetzige zurück ?
I have noticed since this last vid that ACC now has Damper and Dynamic Dampening. Do all of these settings still apply and have you made any adjustments for the new values? Thanks
Keep the new damper at 0 - nothing else changes :)
@@Boonatix Thank you !
I appreciate the content, but as a new sim racer using this same system, I am confused as to what the Fanatec control panel settings should be, then the Fanalab settings, and then finally we get to game specific settings such as for ACC as presented here. ??? So lost.
You actually do not need Fanalab, only what I show here :) The Fanatec settings and the ACC ingame settings... try it out as explained and let me know if you need further help!
Moin, wie bekommst du denn das Display zum arbeiten?!? Bei mir geht das nur wenn ich ins Menü geh???
Gruß aus Thüringen ^^
Meinst du das am McLaren Lenkrad... ? Das arbeitet einfach schon immer ^-^
Jo, des hab ich gemeint! Ich bin mit der CSL DD von meinem G27 umgestiegen und hab mich schon die ganze Zeit gewundert, daß dieses elende Display bei mir net geht, jetzt hab ich mal aus Versehen die diese Option bei ACC eingestellt 6nd nun geht's auch ☝😂😂
I really like the linear Setting but is it possible that there have been more Updates? I tried it hat FFB Strenght 100% there is no way to Turn the wheel. It is way to hard. Sweet Spot for me now is 40-50%. Anyone else experiencing this?
Do these settings work on
xbox series x . great video
I have no clue... give it a try :)
Do you have a linear recommended settings for Asetto Corsa?
Hey man, under frequency I'm only getting 133Hz, 266Hz, or 400Hz. Should I put it on 400? I'm also using the CSL DD. 5nm power supply though.
yep 400hz is the way to go now :)
Asking for a mate, He can't see the 333hz option for frequency...is that an option with boost kit only or can you see it without it?
1:17 please forgive me for the lack of knowledge. I’m new. What track is this?
Mount Panorama :)
umm... im not really sure about ffb not being realistic.
What you feel in a real car through the steering wheel is called self-aligning torque and it has 3 components:
1. pneumatic trail (self aligning caused by the tire stretching and flexing)
2. mechanical trail, caused by the caster angle of the suspension.
3. gyroscopic effects, caused by the rotation of the wheel at higher speeds.
Most if not every racing game/sim is implementing self aligning torque only, unless it explicitly states that it mixes in more things, for example, irFFB for iRacing clearly adds a SoP effect which is not realistic, since you wouldnt feel it through the steering wheel of the car, but your body instead.
Driving based on self aligning torque only is very much possible and it contains all the necessary information about the movement of the car. It just takes time to learn it and to get used to it.
To see all this, one could look at how drifting is done in AC. Simdrifting is all about letting the wheel go to self align and rotate on its own, and catching it at the right time, and guess what, this is exactly how its done IRL. The best IRL drifters dont drive based on body feel only, they have perfect, calm control over their steering wheel with minimal corrections, and they never forcefully rotate the wheel. If what you said was true (FFB not being realistic) then drifting in sims would not be possible since the wheel would not self align to where it should be.
If someone wants more than self-aligning, they should get a motion rig, instead of causing confusion by forcing effects into the ffb which would not be felt through the wheel in a real car.
Regarding your settings: Not using 100% FEI can and will cause latency. This is clearly stated by Fanatec themselfs on their forums. FEI was developed with the intention of reducing rattling on older CSL Elite wheelbases. Latency is bad for obvious reasons, and its the number 1 cause of oscillations. Fanatec recommends using higher interpolation instead of using lower FEI on DD wheelbases. INT has almost the same effects but doesnt cause nearly as much latency as low FEI.
Hey! Loved your video! How did you connect your clubsport v3 to the csl dd? did it recognize straightaway? I can't get mine to show up anywhere :(
I had to update CSL DD Firmware, and then just connected with this one small cable... do not use the USB at the same time :)
@@Boonatix after doing something similar, it worked! Thanks man! Best of luck with your creative work! Keep it comming!
@@Boonatix i did this 😑. Can i still change this somehow ?
I'm struggling a little bit in finding the correct settings for me. I started with a high force feedback setting but I found it makes me slower and after a couple of hours my hands start to hurt because I'm holding the steering wheel too tight to control it. I started dialing things down but I lose some detail in the process. I find the spring effect too strong in high speed turns and the rest of the effects too weak in comparison.
Then the LINEAR setting might be for you :)
Hey do you know if there is a CSL DD for PS4 in production or something similar? I only have a PS4 and realise that all the DD wheels are on Xbox and PC which kinda bummed me out seeing as I've recently bought the racing games on PS4. Noob mistake. Why are PS4 so behind?
Unfortunately not :( Fanatec are not telling me stuff like that ^-^
@@Boonatix I've emailed Fanatec today about it. I just find it a bit odd that PS4 don't have any good wheels. Even CSL elite seems to be discontinued cause I can't even find that now. Might have to rebuy the games on PC or put up with Thrustmaster :(
@@ry4bfggfd id go the pc rout my dude. games on pc go on sale like its black friday every week, just throw em on ur wish list on steam and build ur collection as they go on sale
@@chadenmccrindle3524 Yes I need to get a PC too for the good stuff like Automobolista, rFactor, Raceroom, live for speed, beamiNG, iRacing (if I ever get good enough), but I want to keep the Gran Turismo franchise available to me. Therefore the Podium Racing wheel F1 is an option, but then I need a rig to hold it and it's doing my head in. Maybe I should just get a thrustmaster and keep it basic.
@@ry4bfggfd id just wait for the grand turismo csl dd ps5 collab. apparently thats happening lol
with acc and csl dd , must you still set it on Compatibility Mode ?? or not anymore
I don't think it is neccessary anymore but I just keep it that way... works all smooth and without problems ^-^
why dont you show us how to map the McClaren wheel, not what you did but how you did it.
Are you using the 5nm or 8nm base?
8nm
what to do to display the speedometer on the mclaren gt3 steering wheel?
One question, how do I put the speed on the steering wheel?
why 1080 for steering angle? Each car in ACC has its own specific steering angle
Because it gets synced automatically once you use 1080 on both... you can adapt it manually to match the angle of each car but it is absolutely not necessary!
@@Boonatix I'm pretty sure this is not correct. As there is a noticable difference in how a car behaves when I set it to let's say 520 degrees for Lexus or whatever, or leave at 900.
@@joei4ever it is actually common knowledge and confirmed by developer like Aris as well. But no worries, I always suggest to use what feels best to yourself, so if it suits you better to adapt the angle just go for it :)
@@joei4ever As long as you have both in Driver and in Game set at the same value you are good to go. Don't put 540 in Driver and live the game in 900 / 1080. This works, but it's just setting a different steering ration (an option you have in the car tuning menu if you need a more steery car). If you want to be idealist, you can look at the real steering values of the car you are driving and set this as a max - for example , the Mercedes is 640o , so i have both the game and the driver set to 640o
Does anyone know if there a way to toggle between settings without connecting the wheel to the PC? (I race on PS5) have both settings setup
hold small menu button on the wheel
how did u activate the screen on your v2 to see the speed and gear?
Setting in ACC: Fanatec LEDs
@@Boonatix thanks a lot!
How did you get the speed to display on your wheel like that?
Enable Fanatec LEDs in the settings of ACC :)
@@Boonatix hmm ok I’ll hunt around for it
So it’s a in game setting in Acc?
@@chadsugden411 yep, not sure where exactly but just check the various settings in the acc ingame menu
@@chadsugden411 it's in the general settings
Lineare mode(2) is ok with iracing
what car are you driving
😸✌🏻
My csl dd has no force feedback in this game :(
Sounds like something is wrong then... did you re-flash the firmware and update the drivers?
Good starting point. But I prefer realistic feel.
Sen: 1080
FFB: 100
FFS: LINEAR
NDP: 10
NFR: 100
NIN: 60
INT: 1
FEI: 60
FOR: 100
SPR: OFF
DPR: 100
BRF: 80
BLI: 80
INGAME
GAIN: 100
MIN FORCE: 0
DAMPER: 60
DYN DAMPING: 100
ROAD EFFECTS: 80
STEER LOCK: 1080
FFB MULTIPLIER: 1.5
Define "realistic" please ;-)
@@BoonatixI mean realistic in terms of direct connection to the road, with very responsive feel and complete control of the car, not the car controlling you where you have to fight the car steering or countersteer. Also, no pendulum, rubberband effect where the weight the wheel is to light on a straight and gets really heavy as soon as you turn the wheel. It should be very linear with good weight all around including at the center position. If youve driven a car with hydraulic steering, the weight is distributed fairly even all around with slightly heavier feel as you turn. Your set up is a little loose and bouncy like a rubberband effect.
@@abuelb great feedback thanks :) interesting to hear how it feels different to some people, I will for sure give your refinement a try!
With what wheelbase?
@@kOBR4one csl dd and should work with dd pro also.
I'm going to give them ago 😃
How do you get the Tuning menu ?
I am using the Fanatec Control Panel from the latest driver pack :)
Linear not good
*for you ;)
Linear very good!
Sen: 1080
FFB: 100
FFS: LINEAR
NDP: 60
NFR: 100
NIN: 60
INT: 1
FEI: 60
FOR: 100
SPR: OFF
DPR: 100
BRF: 80
BLI: 50
INGAME
GAIN: 100
MIN FORCE: 0
DAMPER: 100
DYN DAMPING: 150
ROAD EFFECTS: 75
STEER LOCK: 1080
FFB MULTIPLIER: 1.5
@@abuelb where do you change fbb multiplier?
@@kOBR4one if you're on PC, it's one of those binding buttons at the very bottom of screen. Max is 1.5. You can adjust as you drive or onced in gameplay
@@abuelb you mean ingame settings?
I just got my CSL DD, I’m the description of this vid, you said you have no use for the new damper setting ingame since 1.8, does this mean I have to set it to 0% or keep it at default 50%? @boonatix
Also to add, the linear setting felt way better for me (coming from a g29). Just not sure about the ingame settings yet
@@BartjuhOnFire as I say in the video, it has no use so just keep it at 0% :)
@@Boonatix yeah it was in the vids description but I wasn’t sure, I’ll try it out…..felt already way better then the “peak” setting. So Tnx, I’ll leave a like 👍🏻