Making Darkroom Prints
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- Опубліковано 29 гру 2022
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• 50mm or 28mm? Getting ...
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EQUIPMENT USED IN THIS VIDEO
CAMERA - Leica MP, Olympus OM20
FILM - Fiji Acros II 100
DEVELOPER - Kodak D76 / Stock
STOP & FIX - ILFORD/FOTOSPEED
ENLARGER - DURST M605
PAPER - ILFORD MG RESIN
DEVELOPER - ILFORD MG
STOP & FIX - ILFORD/FOTOSPEED
PRODUCTION GEAR
Leica Q2 Mono, CANON 6D, GOPRO 7 BLACK, Gopro 10 Black, TASCAM DR10L MIC, SENHEISSER SHOTGUN MIC,
NEEWER LED PANELS, GVM COLOUR PANELS, Valoi 360 Film Holder System for scanes, Zeapon Micro 2 Motor Slider,
Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM,
ABOUT MY VIDEOS
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
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UA-cam Studio Music - Навчання та стиль
I completely relate to the last frame on the strip so often being the one I want to print, and yes, it is more troublesome. Thanks for the videos.
A tip for when you find the grain too fine for focusing: make a fine scratch in a piece of exposed lead end of the film, focus on the scratch, then replace it in the neg carrier with the required negative.
Thanks for the mention Roger! You've been invaluable in my darkroom journey.
Thanks Dane,. Nice prints! Well done.
“The Naked Photographer” on UA-cam did a couple of videos on enlarger alignment. Perhaps his tips will be helpful.
I shot a Trix film on my 1957 Yashica Mat and developed it in Kodak Xtol.
I must get into my bathroom darkroom and make some 8x8 inch prints on ten x eight paper. I use the end of the paper for a test strip.
I count the seconds in my head.
I use a Gnome Alpha Rangefinder condenser enlarger using a 100mm f5. 6 Schneider Componon lens.
I am 77 years old now and get a bit lazy.
What's that fly doing in this developer? The breast stroke I think!!
An it's probably not the problem with enlarger but simply with the paper curling on easel, try to close up aperture more.
I quickly stopped cutting up test strips and started cutting up 8 x 10 into quarters of 4 x 5 and make 4 x 5 images and doing the test strip over the entire image on a 4 x 5. Once I am satisfied with the finished print I use a mathematical equation to enlarge to my desired image size, the equation is very simple. I measure the base of the projected image in centimeters for example, let’s say your making a 4 x 5 print at f/11 for 5sec and the measurement of the projector base is 161 cm and the new print size of 16 x 20 and its projected base is 585 cm I would use this equation: 585÷161 = 3.63354 squared = 13.2 x 5 sec old time = 66 sec new time and presto!!! it works for all sizes and you don’t have to change your F stop unless you want to speed up your time,and you don’t have to re-adjust contrast filters settings. This method is very effective. I use it all the time it saves me a ton of paper. Plus I can give away or keep the final 4 x 5 prints.
I have aligned my Newtonian Astrographs a few times ( quite a lot in fact ) using a laser. I have trammed my milling machines regularly, but I don't recall ever having to align my Durst 707. I guess if you turn the head for horizontal projection, then you might have to realign the head again. I should imagine, one could use a negative taken with the camera precisely squared up against a brick wall. If the head was correctly aligned to the base you should have an image sharp from corner to corner. Best wishes for the new year, Roger. Take care.
Best wishes for 2023 with great images!
Many thanks!
To fix your alignment, take a photo of a page with lots of small text in a newspaper and check each corner for alignment and/or sharpness, also a fun way to check the resolving power of the lens and film.
Great idea! Cheers.
It looks like maybe the negative has curled with the heat of the lamp, it normally pops back again.
Thank you for making me going back to the darkroom. Mine is in a growing tent and I still have to find a solution for the moisture. But ja, just wanted to say, thank you.
Good luck!
Love the darkroom sessions Roger, two nice prints. Happy New year, looking forward to next years video's.
Happy new year!
Great work as always!
Happy new year!! I really enjoy watching the printing Roger!! Great stuff!!
Thanks Chris
I've been watching you for awhile. Love the content of your channel.
I appreciate that!
Thanks again Roger and off to the darkroom I go, this was just the inspiration I needed!
Rock on!
I love your darkroom sessions still ❗ Great photos and video ❗
Happy New Year ❗🌟
Thanks Rob.
Great Vid Roger. Always learn something new watching you. Still working on my print making skills ( do we ever stop working on them?) and have used your tips on more than one occasion. As soon as I get a print worthy enough I will make one just for you! I sent a few pics gmail earlier, any critique from you will be appreciated, if you have the time. I know you are pretty busy!! Take care, mate.
Thanks. I've not received an email. Send it again. roglowe147@gmail.com
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss resent
Hey Roger, do you plan on making a video about the enlarger alignment?
Awesome channel, really love your content, especially seeing you make darkroom prints. I'm still new to making darkroom prints, and using Ilford Multigrade, once I mix it and do my first print with it, how long can I put it back in a dark jug and have it useful for doing more prints? days, weeks?
Thanks Kyle. As long as it's air tight in a bottle you'll be good to go still in a couple of weeks. I have. Just make a test first to make sure it's still hitting the spot. Or you'll be printing wondering why your blacks are not jet black. Just take a bit of paper, expose it to light and dump it in the developer and stop and fix. Should go jet black. Do this every time you mix new developer and again next time you use it and compare to two. If your test isn't getting black you know it's duff
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you for explanation, really appreciated. Can’t wait to see more of your content and photos, really great stuff and inspiring!
Hello Roger, great and inspiring video! I am slowly putting together a darkroom for the first time since high school… Back then, I had a Durst M601 enlarger, and now I have bought a new-to me virtually unused Durst M605 produced, I think in the late 1980s.
When I was a kid using the M601, I had a lot of problems with dust on the negatives. I had glass panels on my negative carrier, because they were installed at the factory. I now know that Durst always recommended people use the glass negative masks to keep the negatives flat. I’m concerned about dust because I’ll be setting up the dark room in a basement…which also includes my wood shop - not ideal! Are you using glass panels in your negative carrier, or do you have the 35mm masks for different size negatives? (I see some of your masks mounted on your wall to the left of your enlarger.)
Cheers, Brian
Oakland, California USA
Good question Brian and I didn't mention it in the video but I put anti newton glass in the carrier to keep the negative flat (don't often use it as its a pain with trapped dust) but still had the issue so at least I know it's not the neg and is something to do with the enlarger/carrier.
Hi Roger. Quick question. What cleaning fluid do you use for your negs with your Pec Pads?
it's called Eclipse Optic Cleaning Fluid. I always test on the leader before I go ahead. I also have 99% Isopropyl too.
Hi,
why do you start with 2.5 filter and not neutral without filter?
greeting.
I don't have to use a filter to start with and most papers are 2 / 2.5 Grade anyway. But as I use filters to control my contrasts I use a 2.5 grade to start with. Sometimes I don't need to control the contrast and it prints well with the 2.5 filter but if I do then I have my starting point. 2.5
how do you get your chemicals up to proper temperature? Strange that your enlarger was printing sharp, then it went out of alignment.
I didn't need to in this session as the darkroom was heated with a radiator. I get too hot in there and have to turn it off and the chems start to dip, I then jug them and bring them back up to temp in the microwave that sits under the bench.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Your a man of ways and means, nifty thinking.