INSTALLING A DALTON DUV-A700 ADJUSTABLE CLUTCH KIT ON TO A 2016 WILDCAT SPORT 700, NOT SPONSORED OR AFFILIATED WITH DALTON , JUST MY INSTALL, WWW.DALTONINDUSTRIES.COM TO FIND YOURS
i just bought this kit, and i'm going to be installing it. but i couldn't help but noticed you put the white spring in the primary and the black spring in the secondary. instructions say to do the opposite?
You're putting the wrong spring in the wrong place Buddy the black goes in the primary the ivory goes in the secondary read your instruction manual. Did you open your package up from the bottom to make it look like you opened a sealed box?
Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton: Please help me understand, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM? It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move. Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner? I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM. Dalton technician reply: Well, ..you are wrong. Lol Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner. ..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights. The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase) It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important. The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that. The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results) Thanks My reply to Dalton: Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights. I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it. If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch: m.ua-cam.com/video/4pwM26rOico/v-deo.html I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance. Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use. So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades. Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up. By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended). Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go! Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.
With the proper weight set up, they say 30 inches, I also follow the rule of thumb to only go 2 sizes over factory, for clearances unless you're doing a lift.
Why does nobody show the actual torqeing process of the secondary. Even artic cat themselves don't show it. Seems like everyone says "yeah 35 ft/lbs", but then because you can't stop it from rotating and get that amount of torque on the stupid bolt people always just hit it with the impact... True, or false?
instead of slamming your fist into the secondary over and over and rotatiing....just tighten the bolt...spin...tighten...spin..tighten..spin. Great video. ive done writeups on this install lol just not a vid.
i just bought this kit, and i'm going to be installing it. but i couldn't help but noticed you put the white spring in the primary and the black spring in the secondary. instructions say to do the opposite?
Ridgie productions what was the biggest tire the clutch kit said it was good for
You're putting the wrong spring in the wrong place Buddy the black goes in the primary the ivory goes in the secondary read your instruction manual. Did you open your package up from the bottom to make it look like you opened a sealed box?
The look he has at 18:20, I thought that he realized that he had the wrong spring in there.
Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton:
Please help me understand,
I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this.
Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM?
It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move.
Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner?
I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM.
Dalton technician reply:
Well, ..you are wrong.
Lol
Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner.
..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights.
The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase)
It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important.
The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that.
The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results)
Thanks
My reply to Dalton:
Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights.
I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it.
If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch: m.ua-cam.com/video/4pwM26rOico/v-deo.html
I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance.
Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use.
So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades.
Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up.
By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended).
Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go!
Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.
I have a 2012 wildcat 1000 it slips out of high when cruising. Any thoughts.
Also got a 2012 and does the same exact thing usually after about 55 mph it feels like it goes into neutral
Did u not just put the secondary on 180 off the x
Yes he did
Why did he never respond to the question?
What is the biggest tire it said you can run on the setup guide
With the proper weight set up, they say 30 inches, I also follow the rule of thumb to only go 2 sizes over factory, for clearances unless you're doing a lift.
Please no music next time.
Like the video but the music makes the video hard to follow. Distracting
Why does nobody show the actual torqeing process of the secondary. Even artic cat themselves don't show it. Seems like everyone says "yeah 35 ft/lbs", but then because you can't stop it from rotating and get that amount of torque on the stupid bolt people always just hit it with the impact... True, or false?
I held mine with a strap wrench when I tightened the secondary bolt.
Absolutely true!! 💯
The background music is distracting and making it hard to pay attention
And he's also putting the wrong Springs in the wrong places the black goes in the primary Ivory goes in the secondary
could of done without the background music really...thanks though
instead of slamming your fist into the secondary over and over and rotatiing....just tighten the bolt...spin...tighten...spin..tighten..spin.
Great video. ive done writeups on this install lol just not a vid.
Dalton clutch kits are expensive and from my experience they are not worth the money
What do you recommend?
Music is annoying