Love your sense of humor!! Love your dog! Love that your son is keeping up with Dad! Thanks for sharing the info! I have a lot to learn and you are by far the most informative lawn specialist in my opinion!! So happy that I found you on UA-cam!
I have 3 horses and a big hay bill, this is the best solution I've found to fix the compact clay soil we have in our pasture. I will tweak it a bit I have an unlimited supply of composted manure and I aerate. Thank you for this, you rock 😘
@@pestandlawnginja yes and no, depends what you call a weed. Plantain, chick weed, dandelion's, golden rod are all good plants to have in the pasture, fire weed, buttercups and hawkweed not so much. The horses only eat the good ones and seeds from the ones they eat are in the manure. I mow the field to keep the weeds they don't eat down and compost most of the the manure, it gets nice and hot killing most of the weeds < I sell the compost stuff. For the stuff left in the pasture, I use tires draged behind the lawn tractor to break up, usually when I'm mowing, wich spreads the manure also. 😉 My pasture use to be weedy but now I actually collect seeds from plants that are good for them and spread them, my pasture is producing less and less weeds 😉 I've aerated and reseeded with mixtures good for our area twice, never fertalize other than the horse manure. I never new their was something to help with the clay soil.
Thanks for the reply. It's an interesting subject. I hear some people say adding the manure to their gardens unleashes weeds from the manure. Others say the opposite. I'm always interested in the perspectives of people that are front line. Thanks for your input.
@@pestandlawnginja you defenatly need to know what your doing when getting manure room a farm. You want to avoid ones that use brod leaf killers on their pastures unless it's composted and afew years old, I just avoid it all together. * If your going to use it in a garden, on the lawn it fine 😉
Fighting clay, compacted, acidic soil here in the North East. Opened up some walls in my home for a remodel and had abut 20 pieces of sheetrock for the dumpster. Decided to break up a piece, soak it in a bucket, and blend it with a high speed mixer. The result was a super alkaline creamy mixture, like 90 weight gear oil. Thinned it out and sprayed it across a 100sq/ft test plots, estimate 40lbs of sheetrock over the area. That was 5 days ago. The results are amazing, all done with garbage that was slated for the dumpster. Going to keep an eye on it and see if it helped with compaction
Love your videos! We live in Colorado. It’s hard to find people knowledgeable on our climate & clay soil! We could sure use your help! My husbands heart working at 16% , plus numerous other health issues. Needless to say, our lawn has suffered greatly. I’m working hard to get it back! Unfortunately, I’m on own doing this. I was hoping you put videos weekly. I’m 66 and have trouble finding all of your videos.
all the one's i've done are in my playlist on my youtube channel home page. I do my best to publish as frequently as I can. Really appreciate the support.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I’m downloading every one of your videos. I even purchased a Sun Joe. I appreciate your videos, your knowledge, your willingness to teach and your sense of humor. Please never stop!
Ginja, I know you have been around a bit and I apologize I have not subscribed to you sooner! What great info you pass along! I'll be using the knowledge I gain from you on my vids. Thank you sir!! - FresYES Lawn Dude
Great video. I was just researching gypsum for hard compacted clay soil. I found it would be great to be able to till into the soil at like 12” depth.... But with an existing great lawn I don’t want to do that. Your approach of first doing core aeration, then add gypsum and humic acid to help breaking apart the heavily compacted clay sounds great. Raking it in, watering it in. I would then add compost from a bulk supplier and rake that in. Before the core aeration, I’d spray liquid aeration (Air8) and maybe RGS to help the core aerator pull up decent plugs easier. This’ll be my 2021 May app!
Ginja. You should do a follow up on the lawns you used Landzie spreader on. Where you mixed soil and peat moss and seeds. So we can see it worked and how well it worked after 2 months and see the new grass coming up
Time to overseed Ginja help! 5,000 square foot lawn! 10,000 square foot bag of seed! Do I use half or the whole to? You have been right about everything else! Should I add starter fertilizer and Milorganite? Please share your thoughts oh great lawn Oracle!
Pest and Lawn Ginja The Quinclorac was heavenly! All of these years I have been fighting crabgrass and losing! Your advice is solid and easy to follow! Thanks for sharing your wisdom sir! I’m going to do exactly as you advised!
So glad it worked out well for you. Nicely done. Make sure before you put your seed down you're at least 90 days out from your last pre emergent spray. I would apply the grass seed at 3lbs per 1000ft2.
Those aerators. US seem full of them - I sadly haven't seen one in Sweden. Golf courses have the bigger ones but those residential size machines seem non-existing. As always, great vid, nice to be able to be part of the whole process.
Great to hear from you again Robin. These residential sized machines are great. They made them so they can fit through a standard fence gate. Sorry to hear you don't have access to one. You could buy the ams probe and spend 3 weeks probing the lawn to death ;)
Hey Duke of prunes! Great question. In my opinion we would want to start by training the soil to receive water first. Water for 2 min on the compact section. Give it 10 minutes to soak in, then do another 2 min. I would cycle the water as many times as you can in one sitting until the top layers begin to accept the water. If the water is running off the surface you can adjust the times and amount of water you're using. After you get the top layers to hold water you can increase the watering times. The idea is we want 6" to 8" of water soil saturation. The chemical aeration, as its often called, is a good option assuming you get a decent product. The problem most people face with chemical aeration is the fact you cannot see it working. From the labels I've read it also has to be reapplied monthly or bimonthly to have any long term affect. IMO this product will not work well if you don't have an established base of water in the soil.
Good stuff man, haha towards the end the video you kinda looked like the Lawn Ganja! Ive only used fertilizers and herbicides for my weeds but now i want to get more into the micro nutrients, seems like a whole other new world for me!
That is a great question. The short answer is no there is not a dedicated video for burnt tips. I have made a few mentions of tip burn and overall brown tips in several videos. Interesting idea though. On the white board it goes.
Do you ever come up the the Layton area? If you ever come up here u would have a few questions and be willing to do a video of my yard. And possibly some of my co-workers yards.
I follow your videos and very good to the point, very good solutions, they work. Can I apply mycorrhizae now that my lawn has fungus or I wait? Thank you
You can apply whenever. Best when ground temps are around 40 to 50. Dont apply when ground temps get below 40. Push it in with 4 to 5 inches of water. If you can aerate first that's a bonus
Best way to loosen up a bear is with salmon injected with laxative. Just stay clear of the bear for a couple days, unless you're fond of chocolate rain
hey lawn Ginja, love watching your channel wish you were up here in Canada id have you do a once over on my place! question for yah i have heavy clay in my yard due to this house being new and the contactor skimped on top soil. and am wording where i can acquire a couple bags of Basins best organic soil enhancer? i've been fighting to keep this yard alive for close to two years now. thanks! Adam
i would call a nursery and see if they carry gypsum and humates. you can easily apply each. i would also consider doing an aerification and pushing sand into the soil.
Liquid aeration should be done monthly for 3 to 4 months to get the same type of affect. Needs to be pushed in with a ton of water as well each service.
Loving your videos, great info, with great personality. Only my second year with a lawn, do you have any tips for someone completely new to lawn care? I don’t want to hire someone cause I’m enjoying doing it my self, but I’m having some browning issues so I’m still learning.
I have non established clay soil lawn was thinking I would lime, aerate, seed, then top dress soil/compost then starter fertilizer all at once in that order is this good idea or not?
You can do all at once without an issue. Just keep in mind lime is to help PH up. be sure to contact your local nursery and check your local area ph average before applying. much easier to ph up than ph down.
Lightning in the background is way cool, how are you doing that!? (ha!) Once you reach your goal, do you have thoughts on what you will have to do longer term to reach a steady state? What nutrients you will need to add or other steps? Will you have to aerate regularly in the future?
Hey Nathan, didn't you know gingers have no soul?... Lightning is just a perk of my being 😉 . So as for long term goals. Once the soil softens and is packed full of micro nutrients I will dial back my usage of macro and micro nutrients. The healthy Mycorrhiza will help nutrient uptake and the healthy environment will allow for extended root growth which is a win win situation. I'll most likely continue to aerate to promote extended root growth and to thin out the thatch layer to promote healthy growth.
You will most likely need to use Lime as opposed to gypsum. The humates are just as beneficial there as they are here. The rest of the sprays can stay the same too. Call your local nursery to ask them if you have an acidic PH, if so lime is your best bet.
Ginja, Dog Urine spots, I have two dogs so this is also an issue for me as well as dog trails in the yard. I understand raking out the spots but I don't have an aerator handy. So what's the next best thing for dealing with urine spots?
"Got the mower job done, Got the bloooowwww.....eghherm...*sigh, close one*... Got the clippings blown back into the lawn" Hahahahahaha nice save brother 4:30
Would it not be a good idea to machine airate after you put the soil conditioner down as this wood also push these nutrients into the holes. If they are compacted again just Wait for rain then airate once more.!
Thanks a lot for the useful information...but I have some questions about my lawn... Which is better to irregate turf or spray it for liquid compounds??also the dog spots after I ve seeded the area and grown up...it starts to become yellowish...specially the tip of the turf blades....any suggestions.... Since I used humic acid and root stimulants beside using antifungal solutions....thanks
Appreciate your videos! Do you have a video with you making your flower beds around the house? I am really just interested in the stones(is thy at what they are?) that you used, and your process for placing them. Low profile and sleek, where can I get them??
I live in Maryland... We had a nice green lawn and then sometime during the winter, my dogs tore it up and I've been struggling to get anything to fully regrow there. I've aerated the area, put down from filler/compost/seed/etc and nothing seems to grow.
Interesting. What is the history on the lawn? did you apply any pre emergents within the last 60 to 90 days? Did you keep the ground wet for 2 weeks during the germination process, meaning it never completely dried up.
No pre emergents applied. The ground is hard packed clay and I use one of those 2 hole core aerators to do some holes. After that I applied a generous amount of grass seed and some starter mulch to try and hold it in place. It does seem like it just washes away from the large flat areas. The area is in direct sun from 11am to sunset. I have the sprinkler go on it for 20min every 6 hours.
sounds like its aquaphobic (the soil isn't holding water or nutrients). I I would start with a water cup test. check out the video off of our website, the video is located at the bottom of the page. www.myallgreen.com/watering . I want you to record all the data. I'm guessing the sprinkler coverage is way off.
You were correct. My sprinkler was actually spraying over the main area in concern. I dialed it back and noticed the ground was staying wet. Sadly we had one hell of a storm and all the fresh seed that I applied got washed away. Thanks for the advise!
Hey thr33sum! Thanks for the watching the video. I really wish I could take credit for a show on A&E . I'll bite and ask what show you're referring to?
Hi I have grass in backyard that I have put 2 months ago. Still the grass roots have not penentrated the soil properly. Some places it is green but mostly I can just pick the patch up and it is still not intact on the ground. At the time of putting the grass, I have just put top soil and no gypsum. The Land is clay here. Can I aerate the grass and put in gypsum now? What would be the best measure to get the grass growing? I have added 2 cans of seasol too. But that has not created much of a difference. Eager to get some recommendations. Thanks in advance.
Hi Jatika! I appologize your message got burried. Most grass types will penetrate. a lot of grass will even grow on concrete. Sometimes it just takes time. You can try to push a starter fertilizer on it like an 11 11 11 or equivelent to force some growth.
jrobforever I prefer to mix it in my backpack sprayer. I use 1.6oz to 2oz per 1000ft2. immediately after it needs to be watered in with a ton of water, 1" to 2" of water for best results.
Awesome stuff! I live in northern Utah and have super hard clay soil and this video was awesome to come across. Question: I aerated a couple months ago, would you recommend aerating again to apply a soil conditioner or just throw it down right now without aerating? Thanks!!
Love all the info you're putting out! I have a huge question for ya. I'm in Northern UT and have a brautiful kbg lawn. It has been infiltrated with quackgrass or dallisgrass I can't tell the difference. There are a couple of patches that are almost nothing but. I have no issue killing that off and re seeding. But it is a little here and there all over. Is there anything I can do to get rid of it? I started a test plot sorta deal where I pulled a lot of it out with roots in sections it was starting to choke my turf out and hoping the kbg will overpower it. Too soon to tell how that's going to work. Is there any hope? Thanks so much!
The short answer is on paper there are some herbicides that claim they control quackgrass. Tenacity herbicide is one of them. I will be doing a tenacity test and documenting my results. I've been told it takes a few treatments and it works. I looked up the label and control for goosegrass is on the label but there is no mention of dallisgrass. You may want to take a sample to a local nursery to get it checked before you spend the money. IMO the overseed will push back against the quackgrass but I don't feel it will fix it completely and a selective herbicide will most likely be your best bet. Good luck and let me know how it goes! Have a great night. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUTNF0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005DUTNF0&linkCode=as2&tag=pestandlawngi-20&linkId=c24ab09674a38aece197e98d91c65729
Super late, but thank you so much! I may have jumped the gun on freaking out. It may or may not be tall fescue. I'm planning on aerating and over seeding this week. I'm going to hope and pray for some big push back. Thanks again!
Awesome video with valuable information thanks brother! One question I have about one of the links listed is the Great White Mycorrhizae. How do you apply that to a lawn? Backpack sprayer? Really appreciate the videos and knowledge you share with the rest of us. Especially for rookies like myself.
The mycorrhizae is all about watering it in. I prefer to aerate then apply the mycorrhizae using a sprayer then immediately watering it in with 2" to 3" water, which is a ton! average system output imo is 1" per water or less per hour
I'm working my parents lawn and fortunately they don't have compacted soil, but I aerated anyway to make sure the soil doesn't become compacted. The lawn is deficient in some macro and micronutrients, per last years soil test (sending another soil test this week to see where things stand). I just spray some areas of the lawn with Quinclorac to kill the crabgrass before I start the seeding process. I have some of the liquid RGS, Humic acids etc. Would these be good to spray during the seeding process. Also, I'd love to get some of that soil enhancer, but it seems hard to find in my area.
If you only spot sprayed with the quinclorac you'll be fine to overseed whenever. The RGS and humates are great additions for overseeding. You can find some soil enhancers on amazon but they're not priced well due to shipping IMO.
@@pestandlawnginja gotcha! I was thinking that. You should partner with a company and co create one! Was thinking maybe they can put a tank in the front and load it with water for added weight. A Ginja can dream
Ginja I appreciate your videos. I’m really going to put in the work this year and I think I have a good plan. I do wonder about a couple things. I have a significant area that needs fill..my soil in general is very very hard clay and will crack after two to three days of no water and I have so many different grass types. I’m live in Wisconsin soo.. I only get about 4 months of grass growth. With late July early August seeing the grass slow down quite a bit. Here’s my question. What’s your time frame for soil conditioner in relation to time of year and the liquid and grabular? When should I put this stuff down if I am also trying to grow seed? How much can my lawn take in one year? Thanks ginja. Sorry for the comment on such and old video. I’m subscribed so I’ll keep watching. You rock dude!
Hi matolius. great questions. one thing you should know is that calcium and humates do not have a potential of burning. depending on your ph of your soil you can use 150lbs to 300 lbs of these products per 1000 sq ft annually without harm. the calcium will vary depending on the type of ph you have. ultimately you can put it down at any point during the growing season. it takes time for the soil to break it down to know what to do with it. the sooner you start the sooner you start seeing results.
Hi Ginga, I am looking for a humate treatment for my sloped lawn that gets too much water runoff, especially under watering restrictions. I cannot find the same product you used. Can you recommend another brand that I might be able to find locally? Thanks
Most home and garden / nursery will carry a humate granular product. The only other option is Amazon. Unfortunately it’s difficult to name brands as each state commonly has a local company bagging these types of products
Ginja great vids bro super informative. I’m wanting to aerorate my lawn, and condition the soil. I live in the desert of SoCal and was wondering if a soil conditioner from Lowe’s would work, it’s called revive. Also wanted to fill the cores with some sand, or top soil, or mix them? So I would aerorate put the revive then top dress with the sand or the mix. The soil gets super hard after not watering for a day, newer sod put in 6 months ago. Any advice would greatly be appreciated thanks.
The soil conditioners work great. Just remember you never want the soil to dry out. Hard to get all the bacteria and beneficial fungus back in order after it going dry
Pest and Lawn Ginja cool man thank you. Should I fill the cores with compost, top soil, sand, Or a mixture of the 2. It’s been hot and it’s hard to keep up with the shallow roots. As soon as it cools just a little I’ll get the aerating done for sure. Also might add a little bit of hydretaine to help hold the moisture a little better once aerating and filling are done.
Hey Jake!!! We moved in about 3 months ago. The edging was already here. I will tell you it's a pain in the butt to keep a nice clean edge. Because of the flat surface it shows all the inconsistencies in the mow height along the edge. Once day I'll bring in a ton of topdressing materials to fix the leveling issues that are causing the majority of the problem. If you have the most level lawn on the plant it'll look awesome. Thanks for the compliment.
G'day Ginga I like your channel (I subscribed) Is your lawnmower a Honda mulcher? if so do you never mulch? I bought a HRX and here in Queensland I have the greenest grass in the street, everyone else's is dry and dead, we all moved into the street a year ago (ex display homes) so no lawn history but the difference between the baggers and my mulched lawn is night and day.
Hey Mancs. My mower is a honda quad cut mower. I don't ever mulch. I don't feel the mower does a good enough job and it ends up leaving dead grass blades instead of mulch. If I were to mulch I would do it twice at the end of the season, september and october. I'd bag the rest. We're almost at a mile high in altitude and the mulch doesn't break down as fast as it would if it were at sea level. I do believe mulching can be very beneficial when done correctly. Provides additional nutrients and organic fertilizer back into the lawn. Doesn't surprise me that its working really well for you. Sounds like you're doing great.
That storm was crazy! We had all of the windows open to listen. I'm really struggling to keep my sprinklers doing their jobs. I've replaced heads, adjusted coverage, etc. Every time I think I've got it, a new dry dead spot appears. And now the goat heads and fox tails are coming up like they think they own the place. Ugh. It's like lawnpocalypse here.
It was crazy, right!!! Sprinklers are so frustrating. I suggest doing a cup test to figure out what reality is. check the video at the end of the company web page www.myallgreen.com/watering . Great tips on that page too. Took me about 2 years to get rid of all my goat heads at my last house. Its doable. Be sure to do a pre emergent in the spring and fall. The fact you have fox tails suggests your pre emergent was either put down too late or your lawn dried out. Make sure you spray the goat head plants or pull them ASAP when you see them. Good luck. Really appreciate you watching my videos.
Can I ask how many square feet you have? I have about 10,000sq ft of lawn and would like to know how thick to apply the soil conditioner for comparison's sake. I have the same hard, compacted clay.
Hey Bryant! Sorry I was too slow on the response. Looks like you found it. I went a little nutty on the soil conditioner. On the up and coming apps I'll cut that rate in half. My clay turns to concrete when it dries. Because of this I went a little drastic.
Haha, you were plenty fast! I just didn't watch all the way through. My entire lawn is thick, hard clay. I'm going to try this. I know generally, you leave the cores down when aerating. I didn't see any when you did yours. Is it best to rake them when dealing with this time of soil ammendment or are they fine to stay on top?
I left my cores. There's so much nutrient value in the thatch layer. If I was top dressing with sand or some sort of peat moss etc I would remove my cores.
Good deal, where do you get your soil conditioner? First glance it appears the Big Boxes don't carry anything like that(Menards/HD/Lowes). Do I need to get this at a garden supply center?
Where do you find your soul conditioner with the gypsum in it? By the looks of the mountains in your videos. I'm pretty sure we live in the same valley. I can't find that stuff though.
Wanted to hate your content as I’m getting bombarded by lawn care divas. Must say you are an awesome dude without attitude. Found your approach fascinating and please allow me to comment : Have you considered humichar to add organic content? I think there is significant research out there especially from depleted equatorial soils to demonstrate its success. Remember the organic content of great soil only has to be in that 2 - 5 % based on a soil test. Azomite comes in pelletized form also and I love how it spreads . Gave up on mycrorizzhae after discussions with soil scientist. Active spores have a short shelf life and no solid evidence that adding random fungi has an effect that passes scientific scrutiny. Love the liquid kelp applications. Going to add 1tsp of Sea 90 ocean salt per gallon of water along with the kelp this year to see the results. Sea 90 has a plethora of micronutrients and I read the reports on the aftermath of 2 typhoons in Malaysia that destroyed farmland. Researchers assumed crop production would take years to recover only to find that sea water inundation increased fertility rather than inhibit it. Plus 1 tsp per gallon is not going to do anything to increase the salinity of my soil Sorry about being long winded but it was so refreshing to finally see a lawn care dude with a genuinely honest approach to helping others get better. The fact your neighbor is on board proves my point. Thank you
Love the feedback Blue Jay. I have used biochar. great bio stimulant for sure. Azomite is mined locally in my state and also fantastic. as for the mycorrhizae, i primarily use it for lawns that are stressed or have been drought stressed severly where the soil and grass isn't allowing for water to penetrate. i get the scietific evidence. i've looked at both sides of the fence. I still feel theres a place for it. i do agree it doesn't last a long long time for most climates.
Cool video, lots of very useful info as usual. Does anyone have solid information about using sand on clay soil? I'm referring to the claim that sanding clay soil would harden it in the long run. I've read it would become like concrete...
Unfortunately its a utah based product and they don't ship it. Check out shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1275231&u=2147196&m=84126&urllink=https%3A%2F%2Fyardmastery%2Ecom%2Fcollections%2Fbest%2Dselling%2Fproducts%2Fcompaction%2Dcure&afftrack=
was there a bunch of cores left on the lawn, could see them. Since its clay is it logical to not keep those clay cores on the lawn? Maybe keep the top soil but remove the clay?
personally I would bring in top soil if you can. If you have low PH lime does great. If you have high ph gypsum is best. I generally use a lime/gypsum mix and a 12.12.12 fertilizer with the overseed. are they going to top dress the seed?
Pest and Lawn Ginja thanks for the tip. No, they’re just throwing down seed and hay and that’s it. It’s a pretty big years so I as much as I would like to add top soil, I don’t think I will because of price.
It's a local company. they don't ship unfortunately. I would call a local nursery and ask them if they carry humates and hypsum (assuming your ph is above a 6.5)
Another highly informative video, thanks Ginja. I am thinking of applying this Great Basin’s Best Organic Soil Conditioner and wondered if it is recommended for my sandy clay loam soil type with a 7.5 pH? You mention you were applying it to condition your heavy clay to open it up, which made me wonder if it might alter what little clay I have in my soil in a negative way. Also would you recommend applying it this late in the year or waiting until spring and if I should wait is there an optimal time to apply in spring for example the second fertilizing in May?
It won't have any adverse side effects. The humates will help retain the water. You can go as heavy as I did. You can put it down anytime. It takes a while for the gypsum to break down to an available source.
Thanks for watching today's video. Check out the description to see the products I used today. If you're looking for the best treatments for your lawn, check out my favorite products:
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Herbicides Warm Season grass types (READ LABEL FOR GRASS TYPE / WEED TARGET)
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The information you provide is hands down the best I’ve seen online. I really appreciate the content!
Thanks C House! Huge compliment.
@@pestandlawnginja you think i could get your personal email. got a few questions and i am living abroad. active duty member.
Love your sense of humor!! Love your dog! Love that your son is keeping up with Dad! Thanks for sharing the info! I have a lot to learn and you are by far the most informative lawn specialist in my opinion!! So happy that I found you on UA-cam!
Thanks elaine! Super kind of you
I have 3 horses and a big hay bill, this is the best solution I've found to fix the compact clay soil we have in our pasture.
I will tweak it a bit I have an unlimited supply of composted manure and I aerate. Thank you for this, you rock 😘
Nice. Love that. It definitely makes for a great top dressing solution. Do you find you get weeds from the horse manure?
@@pestandlawnginja yes and no, depends what you call a weed.
Plantain, chick weed, dandelion's, golden rod are all good plants to have in the pasture, fire weed, buttercups and hawkweed not so much. The horses only eat the good ones and seeds from the ones they eat are in the manure. I mow the field to keep the weeds they don't eat down and compost most of the the manure, it gets nice and hot killing most of the weeds < I sell the compost stuff.
For the stuff left in the pasture, I use tires draged behind the lawn tractor to break up, usually when I'm mowing, wich spreads the manure also. 😉
My pasture use to be weedy but now I actually collect seeds from plants that are good for them and spread them, my pasture is producing less and less weeds 😉 I've aerated and reseeded with mixtures good for our area twice, never fertalize other than the horse manure. I never new their was something to help with the clay soil.
Thanks for the reply. It's an interesting subject. I hear some people say adding the manure to their gardens unleashes weeds from the manure. Others say the opposite. I'm always interested in the perspectives of people that are front line. Thanks for your input.
@@pestandlawnginja you defenatly need to know what your doing when getting manure room a farm. You want to avoid ones that use brod leaf killers on their pastures unless it's composted and afew years old, I just avoid it all together.
* If your going to use it in a garden, on the lawn it fine 😉
great info!
Watch these videos and there will be a pot of gold in your lawn. All you have to do is follow the instructions from the Leprelawn
Thanks Allthingshigh! Appreciate the Leprelawn compliment! #nicknamesaregivennotchosen
Fighting clay, compacted, acidic soil here in the North East. Opened up some walls in my home for a remodel and had abut 20 pieces of sheetrock for the dumpster. Decided to break up a piece, soak it in a bucket, and blend it with a high speed mixer. The result was a super alkaline creamy mixture, like 90 weight gear oil. Thinned it out and sprayed it across a 100sq/ft test plots, estimate 40lbs of sheetrock over the area. That was 5 days ago. The results are amazing, all done with garbage that was slated for the dumpster. Going to keep an eye on it and see if it helped with compaction
LOL that's awesome. its crossed my mind, not gonna lie but i've never done it hahahaha
I'm sure the 3rd baseman for the Dodgers knows very little about the grass he plays on. I enjoy your UA-cam channel. Very informative. Thank you.
LOL, who knows. He might surprise us all ;) . Thanks for the kind words. Have a great night.
Wasn't expecting a slow-mo lightning show today, but I appreciate the cinematography nonetheless!
love the feedback! thank you
Love your videos! We live in Colorado. It’s hard to find people knowledgeable on our climate & clay soil! We could sure use your help! My husbands heart working at 16% , plus numerous other health issues. Needless to say, our lawn has suffered greatly. I’m working hard to get it back! Unfortunately, I’m on own doing this. I was hoping you put videos weekly. I’m 66 and have trouble finding all of your videos.
all the one's i've done are in my playlist on my youtube channel home page. I do my best to publish as frequently as I can. Really appreciate the support.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I’m downloading every one of your videos. I even purchased a Sun Joe. I appreciate your videos, your knowledge, your willingness to teach and your sense of humor. Please never stop!
Best theory and info of all the channels. Thanks so much from Austin, TX.
I appreciate that!
Lookin good. Great information for those of us with the same struggles.
Thanks Paul! Compact clay is no joke!
Adorable little helper!!
He's great. Always willing to get out there and work with me.
Ginja, I know you have been around a bit and I apologize I have not subscribed to you sooner! What great info you pass along! I'll be using the knowledge I gain from you on my vids. Thank you sir!! - FresYES Lawn Dude
Hey FresYes Lawn Dude! Thanks for the nice comment, very kind of you. Have a great day!
Another great video. Looks like I have a lot of work ahead of me. Dealing with 17,000 sq ft of clay soil...
LOL Steve, I'm gonna start calling you 17k Steve. Good luck!
Great video. I was just researching gypsum for hard compacted clay soil. I found it would be great to be able to till into the soil at like 12” depth.... But with an existing great lawn I don’t want to do that.
Your approach of first doing core aeration, then add gypsum and humic acid to help breaking apart the heavily compacted clay sounds great. Raking it in, watering it in. I would then add compost from a bulk supplier and rake that in. Before the core aeration, I’d spray liquid aeration (Air8) and maybe RGS to help the core aerator pull up decent plugs easier. This’ll be my 2021 May app!
Sounds awesome. you'll do great!
Man I wish you did like consolations lol. I’m in NJ and my wife and I just bought a new house and boy my backyard is next level compacted.
Aerate, overseed, fertilize. Preferably organic. Step 3: Profit!
working on a system to provide that.
Thank you so much for your timely reply, enjoy the weekend, your fan 🌞🏖️
anytime! Thank you.
👍
Thanks again for all the info....really appreciate all the time you take to put out the videos!
Thanks for watching and commenting DTM!!! Nice to know people like the content.
Ginja. You should do a follow up on the lawns you used Landzie spreader on. Where you mixed soil and peat moss and seeds. So we can see it worked and how well it worked after 2 months and see the new grass coming up
lots of content where you can see that. but no dedicated video. not a bad idea
Impressive mountains and lightning storm in the background
Thanks! We are spoiled!
It’s coming along Gina! Thanks for another great video!
Slowly but surely right....!
Time to overseed Ginja help! 5,000 square foot lawn! 10,000 square foot bag of seed! Do I use half or the whole to? You have been right about everything else! Should I add starter fertilizer and Milorganite? Please share your thoughts oh great lawn Oracle!
What kind of seed did you buy? As for a starter fertilizer milo or a 11.11.11 at 3lbs per 1000ft2 and some soil conditioner.
Pest and Lawn Ginja I bought Jonathan Green Black Beauty Ultra seed! Tall Fescue blend
Pest and Lawn Ginja The Quinclorac was heavenly! All of these years I have been fighting crabgrass and losing! Your advice is solid and easy to follow! Thanks for sharing your wisdom sir! I’m going to do exactly as you advised!
So glad it worked out well for you. Nicely done. Make sure before you put your seed down you're at least 90 days out from your last pre emergent spray. I would apply the grass seed at 3lbs per 1000ft2.
Those aerators. US seem full of them - I sadly haven't seen one in Sweden. Golf courses have the bigger ones but those residential size machines seem non-existing. As always, great vid, nice to be able to be part of the whole process.
Great to hear from you again Robin. These residential sized machines are great. They made them so they can fit through a standard fence gate. Sorry to hear you don't have access to one. You could buy the ams probe and spend 3 weeks probing the lawn to death ;)
Hey Duke of prunes! Great question. In my opinion we would want to start by training the soil to receive water first.
Water for 2 min on the compact section. Give it 10 minutes to soak in, then do another 2 min. I would cycle the water as many times as you can in one sitting until the top layers begin to accept the water. If the water is running off the surface you can adjust the times and amount of water you're using. After you get the top layers to hold water you can increase the watering times. The idea is we want 6" to 8" of water soil saturation.
The chemical aeration, as its often called, is a good option assuming you get a decent product. The problem most people face with chemical aeration is the fact you cannot see it working. From the labels I've read it also has to be reapplied monthly or bimonthly to have any long term affect. IMO this product will not work well if you don't have an established base of water in the soil.
nice! glad I could help out. Let me know how it goes.
These videos are awesome and so informative.
Thanks glenn! Really appreciate the feedback
We got the mow jobs done, we got the blow j... the clippings blown back. 😂
I caught that too and was like “dude, great save”
The Red Ninja better known as The Ginja! Gotta love it!
YES!!! Thanks for watching and commenting
Good stuff man, haha towards the end the video you kinda looked like the Lawn Ganja! Ive only used fertilizers and herbicides for my weeds but now i want to get more into the micro nutrients, seems like a whole other new world for me!
For real!!! Kind of embarrassing LOL . Micronutrients are incredible. They're a bit expensive but worth it IMO.
4:45 We got the mow job done ... and we got the blow ... err... ahhh ...
What were you going to say? :'-)
Uhhh...... 🤐🤐🤐🤐😂😂😂
I caught that too! lmao
Pest and Lawn Ginja You know you can’t do these kind of slip of tongues...nice crowd puller though🤪
thanks for keeping it real. Do you have a video on burnt tips?
That is a great question. The short answer is no there is not a dedicated video for burnt tips. I have made a few mentions of tip burn and overall brown tips in several videos. Interesting idea though. On the white board it goes.
very professional at 4:45, thanks!!
You're welcome
Do you ever come up the the Layton area? If you ever come up here u would have a few questions and be willing to do a video of my yard. And possibly some of my co-workers yards.
I only go up to layton on my way to bear lake 😉. checkout my facebook page at facebook.com/pestandlawnginja
Love your videos! Love your dog!
Thanks AsiaSkyly!! Ned says hello
I follow your videos and very good to the point, very good solutions, they work.
Can I apply mycorrhizae now that my lawn has fungus or I wait?
Thank you
You can apply whenever. Best when ground temps are around 40 to 50. Dont apply when ground temps get below 40. Push it in with 4 to 5 inches of water. If you can aerate first that's a bonus
@@pestandlawnginja I'm in NJ zone 7a and Temps are 65 at 6 am and getting up to 80 during the day. So is it OK I guess to go ahead? Thank you
@@AliAli-zc5vq yah. Ground temps most likely around 70.
The thatch rake with another appearance!!
hahaha, funny you noticed.
Awesome information as normal from you
Where do I purchase that soil enhancer in Nebraska
the blend that I use is a local blend. check out liquid air8 on yardmastery.com
You almost said “blow job”. I heard it Ginja lol
LOL, I plead the fifth
I know.. I chuckled so hard. He handled that we'll not even a glint in his eye or smirk, and no edit.
WOW, i went back and said that, hilarious! But thats real videos and unscripted!
Hahaha, I caught that too!
Hahahaa
Very informative Ginja. We also have that hard packed clay. It's been a bear to get loosened up.
Best way to loosen up a bear is with salmon injected with laxative. Just stay clear of the bear for a couple days, unless you're fond of chocolate rain
bahahaha
It's not easy for sure. I "ve found the fastest way is to aerify it with a fine sand
hey lawn Ginja, love watching your channel wish you were up here in Canada id have you do a once over on my place! question for yah i have heavy clay in my yard due to this house being new and the contactor skimped on top soil. and am wording where i can acquire a couple bags of Basins best organic soil enhancer? i've been fighting to keep this yard alive for close to two years now.
thanks!
Adam
i would call a nursery and see if they carry gypsum and humates. you can easily apply each. i would also consider doing an aerification and pushing sand into the soil.
what conditioner should i use in central texas Bermuda lawn where we have high alkaline soil ?
Hi alkaline soil will use gypsum and humates
Very nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Tim!!! Really appreciate the support.
Do you reccomend or have tested using liquid aeration, vs mechanical aeration? Would love your thoughts. Related to seeding.
Liquid aeration should be done monthly for 3 to 4 months to get the same type of affect. Needs to be pushed in with a ton of water as well each service.
@@pestandlawnginja this helps...thanks for the follow up
@@dwhitmire3005 anytime!
Thank you! You definitely kicked it up a notch or 2.
Glad it helped!
Super informative video, way to finish the job and push through the dark haha.
Glad you liked it! That was a late night LOL
Loving your videos, great info, with great personality. Only my second year with a lawn, do you have any tips for someone completely new to lawn care? I don’t want to hire someone cause I’m enjoying doing it my self, but I’m having some browning issues so I’m still learning.
It all starts with water. dial the water in and you'll do really well. Water output cup tests are a great start
Can you apply the soil conditioner after you aeration and seeding?
Yes you can!
I have non established clay soil lawn was thinking I would lime, aerate, seed, then top dress soil/compost then starter fertilizer all at once in that order is this good idea or not?
You can do all at once without an issue. Just keep in mind lime is to help PH up. be sure to contact your local nursery and check your local area ph average before applying. much easier to ph up than ph down.
Thanks for addressing the urine issue. How can I stay on top of that to prevent it the best I can while it goes? I can’t seem to find an answer!
Monthly applications at 10lbs per 1000 sq ft
Lightning in the background is way cool, how are you doing that!? (ha!) Once you reach your goal, do you have thoughts on what you will have to do longer term to reach a steady state? What nutrients you will need to add or other steps? Will you have to aerate regularly in the future?
Hey Nathan, didn't you know gingers have no soul?... Lightning is just a perk of my being 😉 . So as for long term goals. Once the soil softens and is packed full of micro nutrients I will dial back my usage of macro and micro nutrients. The healthy Mycorrhiza will help nutrient uptake and the healthy environment will allow for extended root growth which is a win win situation. I'll most likely continue to aerate to promote extended root growth and to thin out the thatch layer to promote healthy growth.
1:26 I thought you were gonna say "sprayed this piece of crap" 😂😂😂😂😂
hahaha, I totally see it.
The mow job done... and the blow jo...... lawn clippings blown back into the yard haha
yes! love me the mow job and the blo.....wing the clippings in the yard
Pest and Lawn Ginja been watching this channel for a long time the lawn changes and that beard has grown. Thanks for the tip tho!
I live right outside of Boston. What adaptations should I make to your instructions?
You will most likely need to use Lime as opposed to gypsum. The humates are just as beneficial there as they are here. The rest of the sprays can stay the same too. Call your local nursery to ask them if you have an acidic PH, if so lime is your best bet.
Another awesome video
Thanks for watching!!! Appreciate the feedback.
Ginja, Dog Urine spots, I have two dogs so this is also an issue for me as well as dog trails in the yard. I understand raking out the spots but I don't have an aerator handy. So what's the next best thing for dealing with urine spots?
Regular calcium and humate apps
I use special dog rocks in my dogs drinking water that neutralises his urine to stop the grass burn. Easy fix
awesome, glad that works well for you
"Got the mower job done, Got the bloooowwww.....eghherm...*sigh, close one*... Got the clippings blown back into the lawn"
Hahahahahaha nice save brother 4:30
You got that right!
How will using gypsum or a humate/gypsum product affect new seed or sod?
it helps balance the ph of the lawn. took me down from a 7.5 to a 6.7 after a year and a half of use.
Would it not be a good idea to machine airate after you put the soil conditioner down as this wood also push these nutrients into the holes. If they are compacted again just Wait for rain then airate once more.!
It's all preference I prefer to aerate prior to the service.
Thanks so much! Awesome video
You're welcome John. Thanks for the support
+1 for the mini helper
Love my little dudes, they're great. Thanks for noticing him. He was pretty excited to hear about your comment.
Thanks a lot for the useful information...but I have some questions about my lawn...
Which is better to irregate turf or spray it for liquid compounds??also the dog spots after I ve seeded the area and grown up...it starts to become yellowish...specially the tip of the turf blades....any suggestions....
Since I used humic acid and root stimulants beside using antifungal solutions....thanks
be patient with the dog spots and keep hitting it with the bio stimulants to help nutralize the salt buildup. take a bit to flush everything downward.
Appreciate your videos! Do you have a video with you making your flower beds around the house? I am really just interested in the stones(is thy at what they are?) that you used, and your process for placing them. Low profile and sleek, where can I get them??
Hi Jeffrey! It is actually just concrete border laid flat to the ground. gets a lot of looks and compliments.
To prevent those urine spots we put these rocks in their water I can’t quite remember the name but I’m sure you could find them on amazon
very cool. glad you found something that works. thanks for the comment
I live in Maryland... We had a nice green lawn and then sometime during the winter, my dogs tore it up and I've been struggling to get anything to fully regrow there. I've aerated the area, put down from filler/compost/seed/etc and nothing seems to grow.
Interesting. What is the history on the lawn? did you apply any pre emergents within the last 60 to 90 days? Did you keep the ground wet for 2 weeks during the germination process, meaning it never completely dried up.
No pre emergents applied. The ground is hard packed clay and I use one of those 2 hole core aerators to do some holes. After that I applied a generous amount of grass seed and some starter mulch to try and hold it in place. It does seem like it just washes away from the large flat areas. The area is in direct sun from 11am to sunset. I have the sprinkler go on it for 20min every 6 hours.
sounds like its aquaphobic (the soil isn't holding water or nutrients). I I would start with a water cup test. check out the video off of our website, the video is located at the bottom of the page. www.myallgreen.com/watering . I want you to record all the data. I'm guessing the sprinkler coverage is way off.
You were correct. My sprinkler was actually spraying over the main area in concern. I dialed it back and noticed the ground was staying wet. Sadly we had one hell of a storm and all the fresh seed that I applied got washed away. Thanks for the advise!
Nice!!! Way to trouble shoot. Very cool. Thanks for the update. You'll get it.
Cool video also loved your show on a&e
Hey thr33sum! Thanks for the watching the video. I really wish I could take credit for a show on A&E . I'll bite and ask what show you're referring to?
Hi
I have grass in backyard that I have put 2 months ago. Still the grass roots have not penentrated the soil properly. Some places it is green but mostly I can just pick the patch up and it is still not intact on the ground.
At the time of putting the grass, I have just put top soil and no gypsum. The Land is clay here. Can I aerate the grass and put in gypsum now?
What would be the best measure to get the grass growing? I have added 2 cans of seasol too. But that has not created much of a difference.
Eager to get some recommendations.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Jatika! I appologize your message got burried. Most grass types will penetrate. a lot of grass will even grow on concrete. Sometimes it just takes time. You can try to push a starter fertilizer on it like an 11 11 11 or equivelent to force some growth.
How do you apply the Great White Mycorrhizae or similar product to a lawn? I’ve used it for plants but not the lawn.
jrobforever I prefer to mix it in my backpack sprayer. I use 1.6oz to 2oz per 1000ft2. immediately after it needs to be watered in with a ton of water, 1" to 2" of water for best results.
On the Ginja scale, how difficult do you rate this job?
About a 3
Another fantastic video. Thank you.
Thanks leo!
Whew! Alright, so we got the mow job done and we got the bloww...the-m-the clippings blown back into the lawn.
hard bein a hard core Ginja
Awesome stuff! I live in northern Utah and have super hard clay soil and this video was awesome to come across. Question: I aerated a couple months ago, would you recommend aerating again to apply a soil conditioner or just throw it down right now without aerating? Thanks!!
Throwing it down will be fine. If you want to aerate again wait until fall time.
Nice super mountains in the back ground! Very nice! Where are you from? Nice video, new sub here!
Hey Toby! I'm in Utah, home of best snow on earth! Thanks for the sub.
Love all the info you're putting out! I have a huge question for ya. I'm in Northern UT and have a brautiful kbg lawn. It has been infiltrated with quackgrass or dallisgrass I can't tell the difference. There are a couple of patches that are almost nothing but. I have no issue killing that off and re seeding. But it is a little here and there all over. Is there anything I can do to get rid of it? I started a test plot sorta deal where I pulled a lot of it out with roots in sections it was starting to choke my turf out and hoping the kbg will overpower it. Too soon to tell how that's going to work. Is there any hope? Thanks so much!
The short answer is on paper there are some herbicides that claim they control quackgrass. Tenacity herbicide is one of them. I will be doing a tenacity test and documenting my results. I've been told it takes a few treatments and it works. I looked up the label and control for goosegrass is on the label but there is no mention of dallisgrass. You may want to take a sample to a local nursery to get it checked before you spend the money. IMO the overseed will push back against the quackgrass but I don't feel it will fix it completely and a selective herbicide will most likely be your best bet. Good luck and let me know how it goes! Have a great night.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUTNF0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005DUTNF0&linkCode=as2&tag=pestandlawngi-20&linkId=c24ab09674a38aece197e98d91c65729
Super late, but thank you so much! I may have jumped the gun on freaking out. It may or may not be tall fescue. I'm planning on aerating and over seeding this week. I'm going to hope and pray for some big push back. Thanks again!
absolutely! Keep in touch. Have a good night.
Where in Utah can you buy the basins best soik conditioner? Can't find it online anywhere.
great basin turf. tell them I sent you. they have a location in orem and west jordan. there's another place in layton called J&J nursery
@@pestandlawnginja Perfect!!! I'll tell them you sent me!!!! Thank you!!!
Where do you get the Basins best organic soil enhancer??
Great basin
Damn I didn’t condition my clay soil either! I see why my lawn is Count Dracula lawn!
Hahaha. Count Dracula. Going old school. Love it.
Awesome video with valuable information thanks brother! One question I have about one of the links listed is the Great White Mycorrhizae. How do you apply that to a lawn? Backpack sprayer? Really appreciate the videos and knowledge you share with the rest of us. Especially for rookies like myself.
The mycorrhizae is all about watering it in. I prefer to aerate then apply the mycorrhizae using a sprayer then immediately watering it in with 2" to 3" water, which is a ton! average system output imo is 1" per water or less per hour
I'm working my parents lawn and fortunately they don't have compacted soil, but I aerated anyway to make sure the soil doesn't become compacted. The lawn is deficient in some macro and micronutrients, per last years soil test (sending another soil test this week to see where things stand). I just spray some areas of the lawn with Quinclorac to kill the crabgrass before I start the seeding process. I have some of the liquid RGS, Humic acids etc. Would these be good to spray during the seeding process. Also, I'd love to get some of that soil enhancer, but it seems hard to find in my area.
If you only spot sprayed with the quinclorac you'll be fine to overseed whenever. The RGS and humates are great additions for overseeding. You can find some soil enhancers on amazon but they're not priced well due to shipping IMO.
Haha that lighting storm was intense my work lost power for a second
Crazy right!? That was a fun night. Finally got some cooler weather. Felt like the heat was never going to end.
Ginja!
Any word on a small core aerator for sale? Would be awesome if sun joe or green works made one
Not one that I trust just yet! The issue is the weight needs to be there or you don't pull good plugs!
@@pestandlawnginja gotcha! I was thinking that. You should partner with a company and co create one! Was thinking maybe they can put a tank in the front and load it with water for added weight. A Ginja can dream
Ginja I appreciate your videos. I’m really going to put in the work this year and I think I have a good plan. I do wonder about a couple things. I have a significant area that needs fill..my soil in general is very very hard clay and will crack after two to three days of no water and I have so many different grass types. I’m live in Wisconsin soo.. I only get about 4 months of grass growth. With late July early August seeing the grass slow down quite a bit. Here’s my question. What’s your time frame for soil conditioner in relation to time of year and the liquid and grabular? When should I put this stuff down if I am also trying to grow seed? How much can my lawn take in one year? Thanks ginja. Sorry for the comment on such and old video. I’m subscribed so I’ll keep watching. You rock dude!
Hi matolius. great questions. one thing you should know is that calcium and humates do not have a potential of burning. depending on your ph of your soil you can use 150lbs to 300 lbs of these products per 1000 sq ft annually without harm. the calcium will vary depending on the type of ph you have. ultimately you can put it down at any point during the growing season. it takes time for the soil to break it down to know what to do with it. the sooner you start the sooner you start seeing results.
Hi Ginga, I am looking for a humate treatment for my sloped lawn that gets too much water runoff, especially under watering restrictions. I cannot find the same product you used. Can you recommend another brand that I might be able to find locally? Thanks
Most home and garden / nursery will carry a humate granular product. The only other option is Amazon. Unfortunately it’s difficult to name brands as each state commonly has a local company bagging these types of products
What local store did you buy the basins best?
J&J nursery/great basin
Ginja great vids bro super informative. I’m wanting to aerorate my lawn, and condition the soil. I live in the desert of SoCal and was wondering if a soil conditioner from Lowe’s would work, it’s called revive. Also wanted to fill the cores with some sand, or top soil, or mix them? So I would aerorate put the revive then top dress with the sand or the mix. The soil gets super hard after not watering for a day, newer sod put in 6 months ago. Any advice would greatly be appreciated thanks.
The soil conditioners work great. Just remember you never want the soil to dry out. Hard to get all the bacteria and beneficial fungus back in order after it going dry
Pest and Lawn Ginja cool man thank you. Should I fill the cores with compost, top soil, sand, Or a mixture of the 2. It’s been hot and it’s hard to keep up with the shallow roots. As soon as it cools just a little I’ll get the aerating done for sure. Also might add a little bit of hydretaine to help hold the moisture a little better once aerating and filling are done.
Hey brotha, off topic question, the edging you are using for your landscaping, where did you get that?
Love the videos and going from A to Z!
Hey Jake!!! We moved in about 3 months ago. The edging was already here. I will tell you it's a pain in the butt to keep a nice clean edge. Because of the flat surface it shows all the inconsistencies in the mow height along the edge. Once day I'll bring in a ton of topdressing materials to fix the leveling issues that are causing the majority of the problem. If you have the most level lawn on the plant it'll look awesome. Thanks for the compliment.
Another great vid thanks
Thanks KayakAnglersOfOhio!!! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hey, great vids brother. I need your help bad here in CO. Subscribed.
Love Big Ned, lol.
Thanks for watching. You got this.
G'day Ginga
I like your channel (I subscribed)
Is your lawnmower a Honda mulcher? if so do you never mulch?
I bought a HRX and here in Queensland I have the greenest grass in the street, everyone else's is dry and dead, we all moved into the street a year ago (ex display homes) so no lawn history but the difference between the baggers and my mulched lawn is night and day.
Hey Mancs. My mower is a honda quad cut mower. I don't ever mulch. I don't feel the mower does a good enough job and it ends up leaving dead grass blades instead of mulch. If I were to mulch I would do it twice at the end of the season, september and october. I'd bag the rest. We're almost at a mile high in altitude and the mulch doesn't break down as fast as it would if it were at sea level. I do believe mulching can be very beneficial when done correctly. Provides additional nutrients and organic fertilizer back into the lawn. Doesn't surprise me that its working really well for you. Sounds like you're doing great.
Thank you
That storm was crazy! We had all of the windows open to listen. I'm really struggling to keep my sprinklers doing their jobs. I've replaced heads, adjusted coverage, etc. Every time I think I've got it, a new dry dead spot appears. And now the goat heads and fox tails are coming up like they think they own the place. Ugh. It's like lawnpocalypse here.
It was crazy, right!!! Sprinklers are so frustrating. I suggest doing a cup test to figure out what reality is. check the video at the end of the company web page www.myallgreen.com/watering . Great tips on that page too.
Took me about 2 years to get rid of all my goat heads at my last house. Its doable. Be sure to do a pre emergent in the spring and fall. The fact you have fox tails suggests your pre emergent was either put down too late or your lawn dried out. Make sure you spray the goat head plants or pull them ASAP when you see them. Good luck. Really appreciate you watching my videos.
Can I ask how many square feet you have? I have about 10,000sq ft of lawn and would like to know how thick to apply the soil conditioner for comparison's sake. I have the same hard, compacted clay.
Sorry, you said it in the video later on, 3,000sq ft. Which puts me at about 500ish lbs. Thanks!
Hey Bryant! Sorry I was too slow on the response. Looks like you found it. I went a little nutty on the soil conditioner. On the up and coming apps I'll cut that rate in half. My clay turns to concrete when it dries. Because of this I went a little drastic.
Haha, you were plenty fast! I just didn't watch all the way through. My entire lawn is thick, hard clay. I'm going to try this. I know generally, you leave the cores down when aerating. I didn't see any when you did yours. Is it best to rake them when dealing with this time of soil ammendment or are they fine to stay on top?
I left my cores. There's so much nutrient value in the thatch layer. If I was top dressing with sand or some sort of peat moss etc I would remove my cores.
Good deal, where do you get your soil conditioner? First glance it appears the Big Boxes don't carry anything like that(Menards/HD/Lowes). Do I need to get this at a garden supply center?
At the end of the video I was thinking you must live in Colorado not Utah...
I see the similarities. I lived in littleton for a little while. Thanks for watching Dane.
Where do you find your soul conditioner with the gypsum in it? By the looks of the mountains in your videos. I'm pretty sure we live in the same valley. I can't find that stuff though.
ifa and great basin turf sells it.
Wanted to hate your content as I’m getting bombarded by lawn care divas. Must say you are an awesome dude without attitude. Found your approach fascinating and please allow me to comment :
Have you considered humichar to add organic content? I think there is significant research out there especially from depleted equatorial soils to demonstrate its success. Remember the organic content of great soil only has to be in that 2 - 5 % based on a soil test.
Azomite comes in pelletized form also and I love how it spreads .
Gave up on mycrorizzhae after discussions with soil scientist. Active spores have a short shelf life and no solid evidence that adding random fungi has an effect that passes scientific scrutiny.
Love the liquid kelp applications. Going to add 1tsp of Sea 90 ocean salt per gallon of water along with the kelp this year to see the results. Sea 90 has a plethora of micronutrients and I read the reports on the aftermath of 2 typhoons in Malaysia that destroyed farmland. Researchers assumed crop production would take years to recover only to find that sea water inundation increased fertility rather than inhibit it. Plus 1 tsp per gallon is not going to do anything to increase the salinity of my soil
Sorry about being long winded but it was so refreshing to finally see a lawn care dude with a genuinely honest approach to helping others get better. The fact your neighbor is on board proves my point. Thank you
Love the feedback Blue Jay. I have used biochar. great bio stimulant for sure. Azomite is mined locally in my state and also fantastic. as for the mycorrhizae, i primarily use it for lawns that are stressed or have been drought stressed severly where the soil and grass isn't allowing for water to penetrate. i get the scietific evidence. i've looked at both sides of the fence. I still feel theres a place for it. i do agree it doesn't last a long long time for most climates.
I find Ironite works well for color,
Chelated iron is great for color.
Cool video, lots of very useful info as usual. Does anyone have solid information about using sand on clay soil? I'm referring to the claim that sanding clay soil would harden it in the long run. I've read it would become like concrete...
I have a few videos on this subject. I use 2mm screened or less non polymeric sand and it works great!
@@pestandlawnginja Thanks! I'll check them out.
I searched the internet and couldn't find Basin's Best. Could you give a link for that product?
Unfortunately its a utah based product and they don't ship it. Check out shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1275231&u=2147196&m=84126&urllink=https%3A%2F%2Fyardmastery%2Ecom%2Fcollections%2Fbest%2Dselling%2Fproducts%2Fcompaction%2Dcure&afftrack=
was there a bunch of cores left on the lawn, could see them. Since its clay is it logical to not keep those clay cores on the lawn? Maybe keep the top soil but remove the clay?
I always keep the cores unless I'm top dressing with sand. the cores, mainly the thatch in the cores contain a ton of micro nutrients.
I'm getting a new house here somewhat soon. The whole thing is clay. Should I put lime down before and after they seed?
personally I would bring in top soil if you can. If you have low PH lime does great. If you have high ph gypsum is best. I generally use a lime/gypsum mix and a 12.12.12 fertilizer with the overseed. are they going to top dress the seed?
Pest and Lawn Ginja thanks for the tip. No, they’re just throwing down seed and hay and that’s it. It’s a pretty big years so I as much as I would like to add top soil, I don’t think I will because of price.
@@derkyderk1900 I totally understand that. I like the idea of adding lime or gypsum.
What’s the best way to find out the clay content of your soil?
dig around in a few spots
I have a neutral PH. Tall fescue grass in San Diego. I see you mentioned not
To use gypsum on the east coast and California. How come?
Gypsum brings the ph down. You should try and find calcium nitrate instead
Great channel. Where did you get the Basin's Best Organic Soil Enhancer? I'm near Chicago, Googling this soil enhancer and nothing is coming up!
It's a local company. they don't ship unfortunately. I would call a local nursery and ask them if they carry humates and hypsum (assuming your ph is above a 6.5)
Another highly informative video, thanks Ginja. I am thinking of applying this Great Basin’s Best Organic Soil Conditioner and wondered if it is recommended for my sandy clay loam soil type with a 7.5 pH? You mention you were applying it to condition your heavy clay to open it up, which made me wonder if it might alter what little clay I have in my soil in a negative way.
Also would you recommend applying it this late in the year or waiting until spring and if I should wait is there an optimal time to apply in spring for example the second fertilizing in May?
It won't have any adverse side effects. The humates will help retain the water. You can go as heavy as I did. You can put it down anytime. It takes a while for the gypsum to break down to an available source.