You know what I really love about you guys is you don't half-ass things. A lot of boat reno/repair channels have a "should be ok," or "its good enough" attitude. You guys rock it out and make everything excellent.
Uma, the best Pearson 36 in the world. Your build quality is just amazing. Love your teamwork. Who knew 21 minutes of glasswork and foam making could be this interesting. Orca's of the world beware!
It's impressive how well you work together. All these years of both the relationship and learning how to work on the boat has made you collectively quite the force.
You two have grown into a wonderful team. Creative, knowledgeable, resourceful. efficient, proficient, kind, supportive, patient cooperation - the result of years of work. Beautiful to watch even if it is mostly fiberglass for now. 😙 Your new Uma is going to be AWESOME!!! 🤩
Thanks You guys are the GOATS, The OG of sailing vids. Thanks for the entertainment over the years. Your perseverance on this build impresses me to no end.
I couldn't see where all that foam was going until you showed reinstalling the rudder. All that rudder work looks great. Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2025 and stay safe.🙂🙂🙂
Awesome work guys! Keep it up! Dan, you shared something a touch concerning at the end about bedding the skeg foot/cap with epoxy. A tight fit is wonderful, but my recommendation would be to keep the unit serviceable. I’m not sure what your plan is but you can use a mix of modeling clay and mold release wax on the inside of the piece to smooth it out and prevent a mechanical lock holding it in place. That aside, you guys have the dream life, keep it up. Fair winds and following seas, Cheers
I had the same concern about "locking" the skeg foot in place. One option might be to put a few layers of glass covering the outside of the foot and tabbed into the main part of the skeg. That way if/when the rudder has to be pulled again a bit of grinding would be enough to break it loose.
It may only take a few minutes on video, but we know how much work goes into each little phase of a project! You are really doing a fine job with UMA and we get to sail along with you with that same feeling of trust in everything that you have done and you now have. It's a great feeling!
Don’t know if you read these comments ( and there are so very many fans rooting for you 😊👍) but fyi I moved the weird raked rudder on a P26 and built a new rudder around a S/S stock n tangs but the kicker is that I laminated a solid rudder tube from hull to cockpit floor with MASSIVELY tabbed bonding top n bottom. Honestly you could probably pick the boat up with a chain around that post . Add in a waterproof bulkhead in front ( which I did not) and you are in Orca++ territory , with the option to drop the rudder with a line tied to the top and then repair at sea ..worst case! Plan for crap and hope for the best sailing
Very nice work on that rudder. But as for being orca proof - a grown orca can weigh over 3 metric tons. There is little you can do to stop that mass. The best design to do there is that rudder fails without damaging the rest of the boat.
Watertight compartment where the rudder stock is located is the only means of orca proofing a rudder. It's only to keep the boat from sinking when the orca rips a huge hole in your hull. Any descent blue water sailor should be able to jury rig a rudder to get to nearest port. I'm not sure if they have a watertight bulkhead back there though.
This would be an example of taking relatively current events and creating an attention grabbing title to draw people in who would otherwise not be interested in sailing content. Your comment and mine are perfect examples of it’s effectiveness.
Excellent work on the rudder. You have reinforced all of the weak zones of a most important component. This will pay off big in the future. Progress is measured by how well you want to examine and permanently improve the strength and most importantly reliability. I would say that you have succeeded in every way. Best Regards Al Hartley
Love love love the build videos you two are putting out! And the message of healthy balance and working with our mental balance is so excellent! Love the green ad bar at the bottom, very clever. Great shooting and editing this vid!
you are going to be so happy you did this now, this allows you to get off the hard for some projects and for some movement, change of pace, money saving...etc
Have to say I’m really enjoying the boat work , stuff iv done myself and being a boat owner still doing , nice to see other ideas and project solving so keep positive as I know there are down days that you don’t really show , cheers from New Zealand,
Great vlog from you and wow it is starting to come together now. Rudder has been much improved on and i hope you see the difference when you are on your shake down sail.
This is the best / most important / best bang for the buck improvement you have made. You have multiple ways of propulsion but only one rudder and the original bearing did not seem that sturdy.
A few months ago I thought you guys went through a bit of a rough relational or working patch, anyway you both seemed a bit down. But whatever I thought I was seeing, which is none of my business, it’s good to see you guys finding some new energy to enjoy the process. Remember when you guys bought her and the keel was all loose, welding old bowsprit and cockpit railing parts together on the dock, you both went a long way with this boat and I’m curious to see the end result, sure it will be a great cruiser. Hope for you guys you both will be on the water again soon, won’t be long if you ask me. Keep it going.👍
I have been a bit of a pain recently when commenting on a couple of cruising channels about underwater “things”, but bear with me if I do so again One of the most used and appreciated things we fitted down the back end was a small window that allowed us to see what was happening around our prop/rudder area and preplan any strategy without jumping into cold, dark, jumping up and down type, murky waters Now Uma has two props competing for kelp and fishing line etc might it be an idea to build in a simple fibreglass standpipe whose open top emerges in the cockpit above water level. This would allow an action type camera on a pole to be lowered and inspect all your stern-gear and the keel - you might even snap a passing orca pod?
Or a length of 4-6" diameter PVC plumbing pipe (glassed in place) with a screw on cap at the top end. The cap to prevent any unexpected "geysers" in spicy seas.
I read in an orca blog (yes, orcas still have blogs), that they much prefer to trash spade rudders, instead of skeg rudders, so you guys should be good. : ⁰ )
Oops 100% over sized that rudder tube hole. Should have been tapping that into a tight interference fit hole. 🤔😃😃😃 Love your vids please never stop. You are both an inspiration ☺️
I’m glad you decided to upgrade the rudder flange. If you hadn’t made good use of the old one and documented it, I would have had a hard time believing that it was still in working condition. So much more beef to the new one!
Going to be such a good boat! Triple strength everything! Being so much stiffer it should point higher as well. Used to be such bad boat. Wobbly keel, clunking rudder, rig pulling dimples into the sides. No wonder it creaked and groaned. And it's going to smell allot better without all those dead water pockets. Dyneema superstrong stays next?
I'm 64 and soon 65! And I'd never drink coffee hole my live but drinking the best teas I can find. Of course bio if possible. And a lot of herb teas. If you need energy drink drink tea! Not all those products you got for ads! The companies exploiting you for earning their money! Anyways, I love your channel and following your progress in UMA! Keep on your good work and I love your progress!
It was interesting to see your rudder stuffing box journal come out so easy. The more I looked I realized the rudders in my boat have the same setup. What’s strange is my boat is a trawler with twin spade rudders and the hull is only about 2 centimeters thick there since there is no skeg. I would say many manufacturers from that time used that part regardless of what kind of boat configuration. I like the new one you installed, much better.
Some time ago I commented that U2 were trying to make a submarine. It's really becoming a blue-water boat. You had a very good starting point and it becomes a lot stiffer and safer. Saw a sailor trying to navigate arctic waters with ice-hills floating everywhere - that scared him and made him retreat. After one collision with a loudish bang, he retreated from the zone. Not sure how much the sonar system costs that e.g. "Adventures With Purpose" (YT channel) use to "see" underwater. I always think, why not have a sonar in the bow that looks more forward than downward. If the top angle-of-sonar-view touches the water surface then you can "see" icebergs/hills or floes in your path, but also whales and UFOs.
Regarding the "forward looking sonar" option. A lot depends on the existing navigation system. The sender isn't much (if any) more than replacing a normal downward facing depth finder, as long as the electronics can accept another sensor. The hardest part, after the money, would be finding a location on the wet part of the hull that angles as much forward as it does down.
One thing I “highly” suggest is to take barrier coat and paint the inside of your rudder tube before the install. I did the same repair a few years ago and now I have blisters in the tube.
Please show use the final painting of the locker. It brings so much joy to experience the instant gratification of a paint job, signifying that this area is complete.
If you really want to "tighten up" that pesky loose fit in the rudder tube hole: - - Drop the rudder again. - Drill and tap 2 small holes 180 deg apart in the rudder carrier (upper) bearing flange, at an angle if necessary, to afford direct access to the 'loose' annular volume in the rudder tube once the rudder is reinstalled. - If possible drill one of the holes on the high side and one on the low side of the bearing flange. - Fashion a temporary shaft to hull seal (e.g. some removable packing material) to create a good seal at the bottom of the rudder tube. - Apply three good coats (or more) of Johnson's paste wax, Kiwi shoe wax or Simonize wax on the entire rudder shaft and the temporary seal as a release agent. Polish first two coats. Apply but do not 'polish' the third, very thin coat of wax off) - Reinstall the waxed rudder shaft & temporary seal. Take good care not to "scratch off" the release agent during installation. - Affix the rudder in final position with top and bottom bearings - Mix to activate, then fill a large syringe or several small syringes with 'high quality plastic steel liquid with initial hardening time of about 1 hour eg: Devcon plastic steel liquid b 10210' - or equal. - Inject the activated plastic steel liquid into the lower tapped hole in the upper bearing flange until the liquid flows out of the upper hole. - Check that there are no plastic steel liquid leaks below at the rudder. - Insert and tighten a bolt or screw (with waxed thread for easy release) into the upper tapped hole. - Remove syringe in the lower tapped hole and insert and tighten a similarly waxed bolt or screw in the hole. - After the initial hardening time remove the temporary bottom seal and move the rudder from side to side. This may have slight sticksion initially and need a little sharp force to ensure good release. - Move rudder full motion side to side a few times more until full cure. I have used Devcon and other high quality mixes in much larger commercial situations but if you prefer to use a straight epoxy solution the procedure would be similar. I do hope you have some smoooth sailing soon. I miss the sailing adventures.
LL & FMEA: Lessons learned & Failure Mode Effects Analysis: Making the boat more robust, reliable and maintainable. Rudder flange design, skeg fill and glass, bulkhead glass work. Drier, stronger, stiffer and less prone to leaks. Why wasn't the boat built like this before.
What was done to the brass fitting, bulkhead reinforcement and the skeg filler do not appear to be too radical, costly. More time and some money because of cramped quarters but well worth it. Simple, pragmatic, functional.
The productive working week has long been established at around 40 hours. Up to 35 every hour produces the same output, i.e. 30 hours work produces twice as much as 15. However, much over 40 and output goes down faster than the additional hours due to fatigue.
So, why foam the interior skeg? Does this actually contribute to structural? Seems like the glass doesn't care/ eventual moisture will reside inside regardless.
At 19.44 where you are installing the bottom cap, you could streamline that by putting some 4200 in the crack at the top and making it flush with the fiberglass and the cap.
Sort comments by "Newest", or don't if you are afraid of disappointment. Problem is YT's comment update broadcasts and your browser's too. You never know where you are in the queue.
So the great part is that you have a skeg and a lower bushing and a better bearing surface and support at the top... so it is arguably VERY strong... but then there is some not so great stuff... This rudder design has a LOT of load because it pivots from the front and is not remotely balanced not partially balanced entirely trailing edge steering and that creates drag, and steering load on you and the pilot... Our boat has internal knees supporting the tube from the hull almost to the deck in HEAVY ply glassed over - a cut out in the tube for the packing gland and quadrant supported below the gland and massively above the quadrant as well.. . No skeg but relatively narrow blade and very nicely balanced - the boat steers like a dream with the updated rudder... The post went from tubular stainless mechanical tube to solid aluminium - I checked 50% stronger in solid aluminium than tubular stainless... Then comes the rudder internals.. up the centre of our updated rudder there is a 3/4" thick solid glass backbone in front of the post and behind it.. the solid billet tabs are milled into the shaft and welded to the shaft.. the glass on the sides is THICK and the shaft is set in the rudder with epoxy and was vacuum bagged with loads of solid glass.. Even like this the weight of the replacement rudder was five pounds less than the 55 pound OEM rudder (low aspect ratio and not well balanced) that I HATED.. This rudder I love and while it might not be Orca proof... it will really freaking hurt an orca if it tried to bite it... The beauty of this design is that in 30 knots or more of AWS - the pilot can steer the boat perfectly and the wake behind the boat is barely existing.. That is a HUGE difference...The internal structure in the boat tying the hull and deck together around the rudder tube ... is excellent - a thrust bearing at the deck and a cross retaining pin... the engineering is wonderful..
I wonder if the weight you added will change much of the performance since it was built light and is a relatively fast boat. Did you think about upping the alternator on the dingy motor for charging your boat without the need to carry the portable generator. Was thinking you could add the drop transom to carry the motor, I see your transom on the boat is small but it would be better to have the outboard where it could do two things, save you in a pinch and charge your batteries if needed so no need for to carry the extra weight of the gen and getting that outboard in and out of the lazarette.
I listened to some new videos I like now your I think new concept, explained at the same time as doing the work, I hope it doesn't increase your editing time. Thanks, you are doing a good job
It would be nice to have a checklist/timeline to see what y'all have done and what is still left to do. Then we can all follow along with you. Otherwise... Fabulous episode... It's coming along nicely.
I would not bed the cap (skeg) with Epoxy as you say, but take advise. "Follow the boat" had a dreadful time getting theirs off, they had a UA-cam of it when they pulled out in Lombok last, not sure how they put it back together.
The title shows for (German) UA-cam watchers „Schritt 424“. For sure UA-cam changed something with (automatic) translations. Other channels have the same problem.
That has more to do with your settings. The best thing you can do is Change UA-cam Language Settings. this way your titles will show up in english. On the UA-cam website, click on your profile picture in the top-right corner. Select "Language" from the dropdown menu. Choose your preferred language to english Hope this helps
@@SailingUma Are you sure it's not because you push the video with a placeholder name that then gets translated but not updated when you later update the english title? Perhaps you could try setting a complete title during upload.
You know what I really love about you guys is you don't half-ass things. A lot of boat reno/repair channels have a "should be ok," or "its good enough" attitude. You guys rock it out and make everything excellent.
I like how you two function as a team. It's really pleasing to watch.
Uma, the best Pearson 36 in the world. Your build quality is just amazing. Love your teamwork. Who knew 21 minutes of glasswork and foam making could be this interesting. Orca's of the world beware!
for us 21 min they skipped 95% of it
Thank you for being one of the only sailing tubers that offer knowledge and how to for things the average sailors can use in their boat life
It's impressive how well you work together. All these years of both the relationship and learning how to work on the boat has made you collectively quite the force.
Uma 2.0 is going to a BEAST.... in the most beautiful way!!! I can not wait to see her hit the water!!!!!
One of the Best teams on UA-cam
You two have grown into a wonderful team. Creative, knowledgeable, resourceful. efficient, proficient, kind, supportive, patient cooperation - the result of years of work. Beautiful to watch even if it is mostly fiberglass for now. 😙 Your new Uma is going to be AWESOME!!! 🤩
I admire your craftsmanship and patience. Great video!
Thanks You guys are the GOATS, The OG of sailing vids. Thanks for the entertainment over the years. Your perseverance on this build impresses me to no end.
Love the work on the refit. Can’t wait to see you guys back on the water!
Dayum, that rudder looks AMAZING!🤙🏻
I couldn't see where all that foam was going until you showed reinstalling the rudder. All that rudder work looks great. Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2025 and stay safe.🙂🙂🙂
Once again you guys impress me with your planning, logistics, and execution!!! You are pro's for sure now.!!
Awesome work guys! Keep it up!
Dan, you shared something a touch concerning at the end about bedding the skeg foot/cap with epoxy. A tight fit is wonderful, but my recommendation would be to keep the unit serviceable. I’m not sure what your plan is but you can use a mix of modeling clay and mold release wax on the inside of the piece to smooth it out and prevent a mechanical lock holding it in place.
That aside, you guys have the dream life, keep it up.
Fair winds and following seas,
Cheers
I had the same concern about "locking" the skeg foot in place. One option might be to put a few layers of glass covering the outside of the foot and tabbed into the main part of the skeg. That way if/when the rudder has to be pulled again a bit of grinding would be enough to break it loose.
Yah....I would just bed it in an underwater bedding compound like Boatlife Polysulfide ....allowing future removal.
i fear they have already done it before you left this comment
@@red_ben3487 Most likely, but it might give others in a similar "boat" some food for thought!
It may only take a few minutes on video, but we know how much work goes into each little phase of a project! You are really doing a fine job with UMA and we get to sail along with you with that same feeling of trust in everything that you have done and you now have. It's a great feeling!
Great episode. Learned heaps
Another great episode with Dan in pretzel position 🥨
Woooo Doggie! Lookin Great! Love the work and the channel! “Keep Going”!
Don’t know if you read these comments ( and there are so very many fans rooting for you 😊👍) but fyi I moved the weird raked rudder on a P26 and built a new rudder around a S/S stock n tangs but the kicker is that I laminated a solid rudder tube from hull to cockpit floor with MASSIVELY tabbed bonding top n bottom. Honestly you could probably pick the boat up with a chain around that post . Add in a waterproof bulkhead in front ( which I did not) and you are in Orca++ territory , with the option to drop the rudder with a line tied to the top and then repair at sea ..worst case! Plan for crap and hope for the best sailing
If Uma hits anything ,pray for anything ! Solid
You guys are such a great team!
Can’t wait for you guys to splash. All my favorite channels are land lovers at the moment lol.
Very nice work on that rudder. But as for being orca proof - a grown orca can weigh over 3 metric tons. There is little you can do to stop that mass. The best design to do there is that rudder fails without damaging the rest of the boat.
Watertight compartment where the rudder stock is located is the only means of orca proofing a rudder. It's only to keep the boat from sinking when the orca rips a huge hole in your hull. Any descent blue water sailor should be able to jury rig a rudder to get to nearest port. I'm not sure if they have a watertight bulkhead back there though.
This would be an example of taking relatively current events and creating an attention grabbing title to draw people in who would otherwise not be interested in sailing content. Your comment and mine are perfect examples of it’s effectiveness.
@@enderdragoonyep, water tight crash bulkhead is the only way to go…
@@enderdragoonI believe that they're making the bulkhead between the cockpit locker and The interior of the boat watertight but I could be mistaken.
Does anyone know if the orca attacks are related to hull paint color that's the same as orca prey or threat species?
Excellent work on the rudder. You have reinforced all of the weak zones of a most important component. This will pay off big in the future. Progress is measured by how well you want to examine and permanently improve the strength and most importantly reliability. I would say that you have succeeded in every way.
Best Regards Al Hartley
Love love love the build videos you two are putting out! And the message of healthy balance and working with our mental balance is so excellent! Love the green ad bar at the bottom, very clever. Great shooting and editing this vid!
You might want to try pretending to steer with a sacrificial oar. The orca grabs the oar and takes off, hopefully happy.
Dan and the Angel working together in amazing harmony. Thanks for sharing.
Thank You. This was most interesting.
No storytelling, no drama no action ..only and always fiberglass
Your boat is going to be a beast when finished. So much work and attention to detail. Very impressive.
LOVE those little clips and snips around the yard, Kika!
you are going to be so happy you did this now, this allows you to get off the hard for some projects and for some movement, change of pace, money saving...etc
You guys are AMAZING, I can't beleave what you have done to the boat. You should be so proud of yourselves.
Uma is gonna steer like a dream now. Nice work!
Have to say I’m really enjoying the boat work , stuff iv done myself and being a boat owner still doing , nice to see other ideas and project solving so keep positive as I know there are down days that you don’t really show , cheers from New Zealand,
Great vlog from you and wow it is starting to come together now. Rudder has been much improved on and i hope you see the difference when you are on your shake down sail.
That Magic Mind looks legit. Love your journey. Cheers
This is the best / most important / best bang for the buck improvement you have made.
You have multiple ways of propulsion but only one rudder and the original bearing did not seem that sturdy.
A few months ago I thought you guys went through a bit of a rough relational or working patch, anyway you both seemed a bit down.
But whatever I thought I was seeing, which is none of my business, it’s good to see you guys finding some new energy to enjoy the process.
Remember when you guys bought her and the keel was all loose, welding old bowsprit and cockpit railing parts together on the dock, you both went a long way with this boat and I’m curious to see the end result, sure it will be a great cruiser.
Hope for you guys you both will be on the water again soon, won’t be long if you ask me.
Keep it going.👍
That rudder and you r work with/to/for it - looks awesome.
Proper solid job. Good work
I have been a bit of a pain recently when commenting on a couple of cruising channels about underwater “things”, but bear with me if I do so again
One of the most used and appreciated things we fitted down the back end was a small window that allowed us to see what was happening around our prop/rudder area and preplan any strategy without jumping into cold, dark, jumping up and down type, murky waters
Now Uma has two props competing for kelp and fishing line etc might it be an idea to build in a simple fibreglass standpipe whose open top emerges in the cockpit above water level. This would allow an action type camera on a pole to be lowered and inspect all your stern-gear and the keel - you might even snap a passing orca pod?
Or a length of 4-6" diameter PVC plumbing pipe (glassed in place) with a screw on cap at the top end. The cap to prevent any unexpected "geysers" in spicy seas.
Or just drop an action cam off the back of the boat and not put another hole in the hull.
Great work guys. I truly appreciate you for educating us on youtube. I have watched all your episodes. Jim Rodgers
Wow, excellent job I am impressed.. You’re making your boat like new and upgraded..
I read in an orca blog (yes, orcas still have blogs), that they much prefer to trash spade rudders, instead of skeg rudders, so you guys should be good. : ⁰ )
Well done kids! Keep up the good work!
Oops 100% over sized that rudder tube hole. Should have been tapping that into a tight interference fit hole. 🤔😃😃😃
Love your vids please never stop. You are both an inspiration ☺️
It's always fun to polish your shaft! Great show, and excellent editing.
I’m glad you decided to upgrade the rudder flange. If you hadn’t made good use of the old one and documented it, I would have had a hard time believing that it was still in working condition. So much more beef to the new one!
Grate job! Strong! More than enough.
Regards from Spain
Going to be such a good boat! Triple strength everything! Being so much stiffer it should point higher as well. Used to be such bad boat. Wobbly keel, clunking rudder, rig pulling dimples into the sides. No wonder it creaked and groaned. And it's going to smell allot better without all those dead water pockets. Dyneema superstrong stays next?
I'm 64 and soon 65! And I'd never drink coffee hole my live but drinking the best teas I can find. Of course bio if possible. And a lot of herb teas. If you need energy drink drink tea! Not all those products you got for ads! The companies exploiting you for earning their money! Anyways, I love your channel and following your progress in UMA! Keep on your good work and I love your progress!
It was interesting to see your rudder stuffing box journal come out so easy. The more I looked I realized the rudders in my boat have the same setup. What’s strange is my boat is a trawler with twin spade rudders and the hull is only about 2 centimeters thick there since there is no skeg. I would say many manufacturers from that time used that part regardless of what kind of boat configuration. I like the new one you installed, much better.
Great job with the rudder !!!...💯
Some time ago I commented that U2 were trying to make a submarine. It's really becoming a blue-water boat. You had a very good starting point and it becomes a lot stiffer and safer.
Saw a sailor trying to navigate arctic waters with ice-hills floating everywhere - that scared him and made him retreat. After one collision with a loudish bang, he retreated from the zone.
Not sure how much the sonar system costs that e.g. "Adventures With Purpose" (YT channel) use to "see" underwater. I always think, why not have a sonar in the bow that looks more forward than downward. If the top angle-of-sonar-view touches the water surface then you can "see" icebergs/hills or floes in your path, but also whales and UFOs.
Regarding the "forward looking sonar" option. A lot depends on the existing navigation system. The sender isn't much (if any) more than replacing a normal downward facing depth finder, as long as the electronics can accept another sensor. The hardest part, after the money, would be finding a location on the wet part of the hull that angles as much forward as it does down.
One thing I “highly” suggest is to take barrier coat and paint the inside of your rudder tube before the install. I did the same repair a few years ago and now I have blisters in the tube.
U Two Are The Best!!! GOD Bless !!!
Fine work guys and very inspiring.
that looks so good great job
Please show use the final painting of the locker. It brings so much joy to experience the instant gratification of a paint job, signifying that this area is complete.
noice noice noice from the outside cracked me up.
Nice work, I love what you are doing.
This video has inspired me to refurbish my rudder and skeg and I don't even own a boat...
lol…
interesting what going on with the wood boat next door. It would be neat to see what your neighbors are doing for a few seconds!
Great job! Another amazing episode.
If you really want to "tighten up" that pesky loose fit in the rudder tube hole: -
- Drop the rudder again.
- Drill and tap 2 small holes 180 deg apart in the rudder carrier (upper) bearing flange, at an angle if necessary, to afford direct access to the 'loose' annular volume in the rudder tube once the rudder is reinstalled.
- If possible drill one of the holes on the high side and one on the low side of the bearing flange.
- Fashion a temporary shaft to hull seal (e.g. some removable packing material) to create a good seal at the bottom of the rudder tube.
- Apply three good coats (or more) of Johnson's paste wax, Kiwi shoe wax or Simonize wax on the entire rudder shaft and the temporary seal as a release agent. Polish first two coats. Apply but do not 'polish' the third, very thin coat of wax off)
- Reinstall the waxed rudder shaft & temporary seal. Take good care not to "scratch off" the release agent during installation.
- Affix the rudder in final position with top and bottom bearings
- Mix to activate, then fill a large syringe or several small syringes with 'high quality plastic steel liquid with initial hardening time of about 1 hour eg: Devcon plastic steel liquid b 10210' - or equal.
- Inject the activated plastic steel liquid into the lower tapped hole in the upper bearing flange until the liquid flows out of the upper hole.
- Check that there are no plastic steel liquid leaks below at the rudder.
- Insert and tighten a bolt or screw (with waxed thread for easy release) into the upper tapped hole.
- Remove syringe in the lower tapped hole and insert and tighten a similarly waxed bolt or screw in the hole.
- After the initial hardening time remove the temporary bottom seal and move the rudder from side to side. This may have slight sticksion initially and need a little sharp force to ensure good release.
- Move rudder full motion side to side a few times more until full cure.
I have used Devcon and other high quality mixes in much larger commercial situations but if you prefer to use a straight epoxy solution the procedure would be similar.
I do hope you have some smoooth sailing soon. I miss the sailing adventures.
💛 came for the tock climbing many years back
LL & FMEA: Lessons learned & Failure Mode Effects Analysis: Making the boat more robust, reliable and maintainable. Rudder flange design, skeg fill and glass, bulkhead glass work. Drier, stronger, stiffer and less prone to leaks. Why wasn't the boat built like this before.
"Why wasn't the boat built like this before" is harsh towards a design and boat that's over half a century old at this point.
Cost
What was done to the brass fitting, bulkhead reinforcement and the skeg filler do not appear to be too radical, costly. More time and some money because of cramped quarters but well worth it. Simple, pragmatic, functional.
When I first started watching it was kicking it with Kika, now it’s DIY with Dan”
nice work! An Orca would still smoke that rudder but it looks much stronger than before!
Thanks for a good episode as gould🙏⛵
Underwater lights incorporating a strobe we used off Madagascar during an attack (off Ifati) and it worked. So did a handheld flare.
fab episode thanks
You two are fun. 🤩
love the sticky fingers routine.
This cramped spaces give me the shakes just watching.
The productive working week has long been established at around 40 hours. Up to 35 every hour produces the same output, i.e. 30 hours work produces twice as much as 15. However, much over 40 and output goes down faster than the additional hours due to fatigue.
Thank you!
Looks amazing!!!
So, why foam the interior skeg? Does this actually contribute to structural? Seems like the glass doesn't care/ eventual moisture will reside inside regardless.
At 19.44 where you are installing the bottom cap, you could streamline that by putting some 4200 in the crack at the top and making it flush with the fiberglass and the cap.
Thats not a rudder flange....now thats a rudder flange...in my best Crocodile Dundee voice.
good job, well done.
Woo hoo,,,, finally first to comment on an Uma episode,,,,
Sort comments by "Newest", or don't if you are afraid of disappointment. Problem is YT's comment update broadcasts and your browser's too. You never know where you are in the queue.
So close,,,,, Looks like number 2,,,,lol
So the great part is that you have a skeg and a lower bushing and a better bearing surface and support at the top... so it is arguably VERY strong... but then there is some not so great stuff... This rudder design has a LOT of load because it pivots from the front and is not remotely balanced not partially balanced entirely trailing edge steering and that creates drag, and steering load on you and the pilot... Our boat has internal knees supporting the tube from the hull almost to the deck in HEAVY ply glassed over - a cut out in the tube for the packing gland and quadrant supported below the gland and massively above the quadrant as well.. . No skeg but relatively narrow blade and very nicely balanced - the boat steers like a dream with the updated rudder... The post went from tubular stainless mechanical tube to solid aluminium - I checked 50% stronger in solid aluminium than tubular stainless... Then comes the rudder internals.. up the centre of our updated rudder there is a 3/4" thick solid glass backbone in front of the post and behind it.. the solid billet tabs are milled into the shaft and welded to the shaft.. the glass on the sides is THICK and the shaft is set in the rudder with epoxy and was vacuum bagged with loads of solid glass.. Even like this the weight of the replacement rudder was five pounds less than the 55 pound OEM rudder (low aspect ratio and not well balanced) that I HATED.. This rudder I love and while it might not be Orca proof... it will really freaking hurt an orca if it tried to bite it... The beauty of this design is that in 30 knots or more of AWS - the pilot can steer the boat perfectly and the wake behind the boat is barely existing.. That is a HUGE difference...The internal structure in the boat tying the hull and deck together around the rudder tube ... is excellent - a thrust bearing at the deck and a cross retaining pin... the engineering is wonderful..
Have you had your ATTABOY yet today…..WELL ATTABOY!
Love y'all...
Good job!!!!❤😊😊😊
Nicely done....
I wonder if the weight you added will change much of the performance since it was built light and is a relatively fast boat. Did you think about upping the alternator on the dingy motor for charging your boat without the need to carry the portable generator. Was thinking you could add the drop transom to carry the motor, I see your transom on the boat is small but it would be better to have the outboard where it could do two things, save you in a pinch and charge your batteries if needed so no need for to carry the extra weight of the gen and getting that outboard in and out of the lazarette.
I listened to some new videos I like now your I think new concept, explained at the same time as doing the work, I hope it doesn't increase your editing time. Thanks, you are doing a good job
It would be nice to have a checklist/timeline to see what y'all have done and what is still left to do. Then we can all follow along with you.
Otherwise... Fabulous episode... It's coming along nicely.
Nice work. I really enjoy your videos :-)
Nice.
17:35 Why not fill up that cavity back there. Is it some sort of drainage for a Stern locker?
You were SO thinking the same as me at 3:53 Kika 😅
Fantastic 🛠
I would not bed the cap (skeg) with Epoxy as you say, but take advise. "Follow the boat" had a dreadful time getting theirs off, they had a UA-cam of it when they pulled out in Lombok last, not sure how they put it back together.
The title shows for (German) UA-cam watchers „Schritt 424“.
For sure UA-cam changed something with (automatic) translations.
Other channels have the same problem.
That has more to do with your settings. The best thing you can do is Change UA-cam Language Settings. this way your titles will show up in english.
On the UA-cam website, click on your profile picture in the top-right corner.
Select "Language" from the dropdown menu.
Choose your preferred language to english
Hope this helps
@@SailingUma Are you sure it's not because you push the video with a placeholder name that then gets translated but not updated when you later update the english title? Perhaps you could try setting a complete title during upload.
Thanks … I have change to English UK, now it works.
19:18 Even just watching this hurts!