So no one ever says where the dot should be in sight glass. Should it be center or should it be on top of front sight post or is it just a personal preference. Also i just bought a swamp fox and had to get longer screws because the one they send are barley long enough to get 1 thread before tight but also i have to remove the screws just to get the battery cover off.
That's the beauty of putting a dot sight on your pistol. It doesn't matter at all! That's why dot sights are so much faster than irons, instead of having to line up front and rear sights, you can just break your shots as soon as the dot is on target, no matter where it is in the window. We have a "parallax test' video on our channel as well where I deliberately put the dot in different parts of the optic window, right at the edges, to see how much the point of impact would change, and easily got all A-zone hits with every round fired. The harder part with dot sights is getting used to the dot constantly moving and wiggling around. It never sits still in the way that iron sights seem to, because it's such a finer point of aim. So you learn that there is sort of an acceptable window of wiggle where you can break your shot. If you wait for the dot to be perfectly still your split times will be three seconds long! So as SOON as the dot covers the part of the target you want to hit, let 'er rip even if the dot is acting all wiggly on you. --SF Mike
Thank you, 100% excellent job on the math of getting to zero. It make it clear where I want to get with the adjustments. I will watch this several times, This video is my gold standard of getting to zero.
Everything was broken down really well and simply. Thought itd be a 5min how to without any concepts and theory, ended up being a very educational video.
Here’s another way, it’s what I use and hardly any math involved. Multiply your target distance to get it to 100yds. Example 5yds x 20. Then multiply your offset by 20. So if you were off by 4” you will need to adjust 4x20=80 MOA. If you were zeroing at 10yds (simpler) you would have 4”x10=40 MOA
I have been skipping around youtube for an hour trying to understand the MOA 1, 2, 3, 4 Red Dots & how those affect adjustments.. Your video was my answer. There are some wierd videos on here saying MOA represents the size of the dot in the Red Dot. Thank you for sharing knowledge that is truthful and applicable.
@@benpennington8941 So, you are saying 4 MOA indicates the red dot inside the frame is larger around than a 3 MOA red dot. The MOA does not represent Minute of Angle?
@@Handd4uthe 3 MOA dot is 3 minutes of angle. I minute of angle is equivalent to a difference of 1 inch in 100 yards. That means that at 100 yards it covers and spot 3 inches in diameter. At 10 yards it covers a spot that is 0.3 inches in diameter. A 4 MOA dot is 4 inches at 100 yards, or 0.4 inches at ten yards. It is representing the size of the dot in angle, because at different distances the size of the dot is different in relation to the target. It is the size of the dot, and also represented in minute of angle. This is why the bigger dots like a 6 moa are easier to aquire, but less precise. The 6 moa dot at 100 yards covers a spot that is 6 inches in diameter. Visually the dot is easier to see and pick up, but covers more of the target.
@@benpennington8941 OK Ben, I think I understand now. The MOA represents 2 areas for a red dot. Size of red dot and the number of click adjustments for zeroing P.O.A. to P.O.I. Thanks for sharing.
@@Handd4u yes that's true, but the number of clicks is relative to the distance. If you are shooting at 100 yards it's all simple. 1 MOA of adjustment (usually 1 click on a red dot) moves the POI 1 inch. At 10 yards it moves it 1/10th of an inch. At 200 yards it moves it 2 inches. That means that with 1 MOA clicks at ten yards, it takes 10 clicks to move an inch.
Great points. Thank you for the diagram. It really helps to understand the trajectory and impact point of the bullet. I like your products. I run an Arrowhead lpvo on an AK and just got the liberty for a range gun. Thanks again
Thank you, i didnt know how big of a difference if zeroed close when going farther, so it looks like its better to zero further like 20 to 25 yards and will still be close to zero when doing 10 to 15 yards
I fire three to five shots, see where the group is, re-aim the firearm using the irons at the original point of aim,and begin moving the dot towards the point-of-impact. Once the firearm is aimed at the point-of-aim and the dot is over the impact of that first group, I know I'm close to mechanical zero. At that point it is time for fine adjustments. You can then move the irons to the dot and can be guaranteed co-witnessed. This works amazingly well for scopes too, you just have to look through the back of the barrel to aim at the target - which sounds difficult, but it's actually easy at 25 yards. Use a big target, and if using a rifle that has no ability to view through the bore due to it's design (like a mini-14), use a laser bore sighter that mounts from the muzzle end. Just be careful to unload the rifle when assembling the boresighter.
GREAT VIDEO AND EXPLANATION. This is certainly the best video I've seen when it comes to RDS sighting. Excellent illustration of height over bore and other considerations, such as ammo. I love Swampfox, they're on 3 of my pistols and both of my MCK's.
Great info. It seems simple, but the height over bore graphic is perfect. I was sighting in my optic in from 10 yards, just pulled up this video…clarity. It’s perfect now. Ringing 12” steel from out to 50 yards easily! (That’s all the room I have here.
Awesome video, gotta show my friend. We had a disagreement on how the scope and barrel affect impact. I have several friends that think the bullet comes out of the barrel rising in an arc and they couldn't understand me when I told them that's not the case, it's impossible. Your drawing on impact describes it perfectly.
Bullets definitely travel in a arc your barrel is already angled upward to accommodate this. Its like throwing a football, gravity plays effect on the bullet just the same
Didn't realize that they didn't ha e clicks in the adjustment, about to zero my justice and am a little concerned now although I probably shouldn't be. I have done this quite a few times with my riffle and with different types of optics, but usually have the 1 or 1/2 moa clicks. You were very helpful and informative with concerning to the swampfox red dots. I think I'll for sure zero at 15 first on a rest before going to 25 though. Thanks for the help.
Now this was what I was looking for,well done explained,and very understandable.Thanx for this video.I am a noob to the world of optic,and this helped a lot!!!! 😁😁😁😁😁
I enjoyed your three prep videos on Red Dot's. Changed my mind in my learning program on my new HellCat. In all my previous handguns and rifles I trained and accuraized my weapons using ONLY the Iron Sites before mounting any optics. The Basics first before enhancements. Will I ordered the Sentinel..I have note shot the Springfield Armory HellCat and barely dry fired it 25 times. Now I will mount the Sentinel and do the Dry Fire exercise you suggested before going to our clubs pistol range. Thank You 10,000 Rounds....Dennis T., Mesa, AZ
These instructions work very well. I bought a $30 ADE RD3-009 for my TP9SFX back in 2017 just to see if I'd like Red Dots & that sucka is still rock'n at 50y with the same 2017 battery, same zero (I've taken the optic on & off many times) never had to rezero but ADE President Tony, just sent me the new 2021 version for the Caniks, the RD3-009D! Love it! Got it fine tuned at 50y and it'll drive nails. I've smoked many hogs, coyotes & Bobcats on the Ranch with mine.. Not recommended as a "Carry Optic" even though I've never had any issues but for $85 for the newer version? Can't be beat.
Way I do this, my carry ammo is 124gr HST if you put bullet info into ballistic calc you will see it is about the same as Federal American Eagle 124gr ammo. Ballistic calc height over bore and how far I want my zero let’s say 15 yards, the output will show me what that bullet will be doing at 3, 5 yards, 1/2 inch low for example, now adjust point of aim / point of impact half inch low and you should be dead on at 15. Joe
Thank you for a great instructional video. Please allow me to ask a amateurish question.... Can we adjust the sight line and the bore parallel to each other.? That would make the impact point a fixed distance below the sight line until the bullet droppage becomes significant.
This is the reason I sight my laser at 30-50 yards. That way, from muzzle to that distance, the bullet is no further from the last than the laser’s offset from the bore.
I got my windage dialed in, but ran out of adjustment on the elevation. I was shooting about 8 inches low at 25 feet. But hey, at least I didn't have a catastrophic failure like I did on my hex wasp, which was 100% sighted in until something broke inside it and lost all zero.
Hey Mike, if you're listening; I noticed you have Night Fision suppressor sights on your Canik TP9 Elite SC. Do you happen to remember which model/version of those sights you mounted. NF's website doesn't specifically list the Canik SC. Yes I have also reached out to NF but it's Sunday and I'm the impatient type 😔
Great video I think I am over interrupting your graphics or just not following what they are doing. You bottom drawing leads me to think that at 5 yards I am good at 25yards which I know is not the case. I will have to revisit the video
Are the adjustments the same on any of you sights? I have a Kingslayer sight Have not had a chance to take it to the range for sighting in. Thank you for your time.
Great Red dot can't wait to requalify tomorrow. My only issue is my warped Glock MOS plate. Any recommendations for a replacement plate? Also when will the ironside shield be available for the Justice?
I attempted to use the V4 plate from CHP but it didn't line up flush at all. I suppose i will wait on the ironside shield to be back in stock and place this red dot on my personal build.
Do you suggest zero at 25 yds for a g43x? I thought I read somewhere that you recommended 15 yards for the smaller handguns. Great vid! Waiting for my Sentinel as we speak!
This video is for all pistols & pistol dots. We recommend following Mike's advice when zeroing a pistol and should you run into any issues, let us know.
25 yards. You are handicapping the ability of your red dot sighting system to be accurate at longer ranges if you zero closer. As stated in the video if you zero @ 25 yards you’ll be approximately 1” low @ point blank to 10 yards. That’s is way more acceptable than zeroing your optic @ 5 yards and your point of impact being 6” higher at 25 yards
Just received my liberty today. Sending my P320 slide in for the RMR cut. Can't wait to get it back. Thanks for the videos and thanks for the military discount. Do I need to install the high suppressor sights ?
What iron sights are you using on the Canik SC front and rear ??? Do the standard irons co witness ok ?or the ones you are using??? I am impressed with Swamp fox .
Those are Night Fision. The standard ones don't really cowitness well enough for me. The night sights from Night Fision are affordable and high quality, I'm a huge fan and I've been recommending them to anyone who asks. The ones I'm using are part number CNK-028-003-YGZG. Tell 'em Swampfox Mike sent you!
@@SwampfoxOptics What about the stealth optics ready from night fision? I keep hearing not to co-witenss as you don't want your optic window all cluttered up.
Great job with this video! Question… when your just starting this process where should the red dot be placed when your looking through the window (let’s say the middle to start). Than with every subsequent correction are you moving it farther away from the center?
Sir I don't know if you reply to messages but I just purchased the sentienal and ironsides but the bosses on my tp9sc doesn't go through all the way to the sentienal is that normal?
Very good info in this video. Keep up the good work. Also watched you other video with red dot pros and cons. What red dot is on your x5 p320 I’m interested in it
It's had a bunch of stuff on it for testing and eval but right now it (finally) has a production level Justice on it. It's more of a competition gun than a conceal carry gun, being so big and having 20+1 magazines that stick out, so having a big window is no disadvantage for that one. --Mike
Check out this forum post by Swampfox Mike regarding irons and co-witnessing. www.ar15.com/forums/industry/What-Iron-Sights-Co-Witness-with-Swampfox-Pistol-Dots-/791-299151/?r=-1&page=1&anc=3917608#i3917608
So no one ever says where the dot should be in sight glass. Should it be center or should it be on top of front sight post or is it just a personal preference. Also i just bought a swamp fox and had to get longer screws because the one they send are barley long enough to get 1 thread before tight but also i have to remove the screws just to get the battery cover off.
That's the beauty of putting a dot sight on your pistol. It doesn't matter at all! That's why dot sights are so much faster than irons, instead of having to line up front and rear sights, you can just break your shots as soon as the dot is on target, no matter where it is in the window. We have a "parallax test' video on our channel as well where I deliberately put the dot in different parts of the optic window, right at the edges, to see how much the point of impact would change, and easily got all A-zone hits with every round fired.
The harder part with dot sights is getting used to the dot constantly moving and wiggling around. It never sits still in the way that iron sights seem to, because it's such a finer point of aim. So you learn that there is sort of an acceptable window of wiggle where you can break your shot. If you wait for the dot to be perfectly still your split times will be three seconds long! So as SOON as the dot covers the part of the target you want to hit, let 'er rip even if the dot is acting all wiggly on you. --SF Mike
It should be wherever it needs to be in the window to be zeroed at your desired distance. When using the dot, ignore your irons.
Doesn’t look like the second issue got answered.
@@jamesgang94591 longer screws… no issue
These instructions are much better than anything else I have run across. Thank you.
Thank you, 100% excellent job on the math of getting to zero. It make it clear where I want to get with the adjustments. I will watch this several times, This video is my gold standard of getting to zero.
Everything was broken down really well and simply. Thought itd be a 5min how to without any concepts and theory, ended up being a very educational video.
One of the best videos on zeroing a red dot I’ve seen. Great stuff man 👍🏾
Houston here also - used your video today to install and sight in my swamp fox for my hellcat
Just got my new swampfox sentinel today!!!! It's freaking awesome! Can't wait to get it zeroed in. Thank you for making this video.
Ordered my sight today with the manual adjustment for a hellcat. I cannot wait to get it.
Just found this. Absolutely the best video out there on how to zero a red dot. Thanks!
Here’s another way, it’s what I use and hardly any math involved. Multiply your target distance to get it to 100yds. Example 5yds x 20. Then multiply your offset by 20. So if you were off by 4” you will need to adjust 4x20=80 MOA.
If you were zeroing at 10yds (simpler) you would have 4”x10=40 MOA
I have been skipping around youtube for an hour trying to understand the MOA 1, 2, 3, 4 Red Dots & how those affect adjustments.. Your video was my answer. There are some wierd videos on here saying MOA represents the size of the dot in the Red Dot. Thank you for sharing knowledge that is truthful and applicable.
The moa is the size of the red dot.
@@benpennington8941 So, you are saying 4 MOA indicates the red dot inside the frame is larger around than a 3 MOA red dot. The MOA does not represent Minute of Angle?
@@Handd4uthe 3 MOA dot is 3 minutes of angle. I minute of angle is equivalent to a difference of 1 inch in 100 yards. That means that at 100 yards it covers and spot 3 inches in diameter. At 10 yards it covers a spot that is 0.3 inches in diameter. A 4 MOA dot is 4 inches at 100 yards, or 0.4 inches at ten yards. It is representing the size of the dot in angle, because at different distances the size of the dot is different in relation to the target. It is the size of the dot, and also represented in minute of angle. This is why the bigger dots like a 6 moa are easier to aquire, but less precise. The 6 moa dot at 100 yards covers a spot that is 6 inches in diameter. Visually the dot is easier to see and pick up, but covers more of the target.
@@benpennington8941 OK Ben, I think I understand now. The MOA represents 2 areas for a red dot. Size of red dot and the number of click adjustments for zeroing P.O.A. to P.O.I. Thanks for sharing.
@@Handd4u yes that's true, but the number of clicks is relative to the distance. If you are shooting at 100 yards it's all simple. 1 MOA of adjustment (usually 1 click on a red dot) moves the POI 1 inch. At 10 yards it moves it 1/10th of an inch. At 200 yards it moves it 2 inches. That means that with 1 MOA clicks at ten yards, it takes 10 clicks to move an inch.
Dang! This is an instructional video in itself. Nicely done! I am enjoying my Liberty...!
I deeply appreciate your instruction, detailed explanations, and graphics . I'm getting ready to zero in my Hellcat and the SF Sentinel.
bro you posted on the same video 2 years ago talking about your hellcat you still havent zerod that shit? lmao
Great points. Thank you for the diagram. It really helps to understand the trajectory and impact point of the bullet.
I like your products. I run an Arrowhead lpvo on an AK and just got the liberty for a range gun.
Thanks again
Thank you, i didnt know how big of a difference if zeroed close when going farther, so it looks like its better to zero further like 20 to 25 yards and will still be close to zero when doing 10 to 15 yards
I fire three to five shots, see where the group is, re-aim the firearm using the irons at the original point of aim,and begin moving the dot towards the point-of-impact. Once the firearm is aimed at the point-of-aim and the dot is over the impact of that first group, I know I'm close to mechanical zero. At that point it is time for fine adjustments. You can then move the irons to the dot and can be guaranteed co-witnessed.
This works amazingly well for scopes too, you just have to look through the back of the barrel to aim at the target - which sounds difficult, but it's actually easy at 25 yards. Use a big target, and if using a rifle that has no ability to view through the bore due to it's design (like a mini-14), use a laser bore sighter that mounts from the muzzle end. Just be careful to unload the rifle when assembling the boresighter.
GREAT VIDEO AND EXPLANATION. This is certainly the best video I've seen when it comes to RDS sighting. Excellent illustration of height over bore and other considerations, such as ammo. I love Swampfox, they're on 3 of my pistols and both of my MCK's.
Really good short cut and easy to follow video. Bravo
Very simple but a great deal of information: thank you for sharing this, it helps me out a ton.
Good video and thorough coverage of the height over bore effect! Thanks!
Great info. It seems simple, but the height over bore graphic is perfect. I was sighting in my optic in from 10 yards, just pulled up this video…clarity. It’s perfect now. Ringing 12” steel from out to 50 yards easily! (That’s all the room I have here.
Great video. Thank you! Exactly what we want. Hitting where it should in the least amount of time using the least amount of ammo.
Thank you! Your the first one
To show me how to adjust my optic
👊 Best red dot zero-in video i seen to date (i see the comments are saying the same thing) ...keep them coming (ill be getting the Sentinel)
I like this guy, great info and entertaining at the same time
Swampfox Mike is a great guy!
@@SwampfoxOptics do i need two put the dot on the center of the window?
@@jesseawiten8480 Follow the instructions in this video.
Just picked up the Liberty and can't wait to get it zeroed in! Thanks for the informative vid on sighting in a red dot. Very helpful! Thanks!
I like it, I can’t wait to get my Sentinel sighted in.
Awesome video, gotta show my friend. We had a disagreement on how the scope and barrel affect impact. I have several friends that think the bullet comes out of the barrel rising in an arc and they couldn't understand me when I told them that's not the case, it's impossible. Your drawing on impact describes it perfectly.
Bullets definitely travel in a arc your barrel is already angled upward to accommodate this. Its like throwing a football, gravity plays effect on the bullet just the same
Good Job explaining. I was about to give up on the Red Dot.
Finally!! explained thoroughly .. you just got a new subscriber!! A+
High quality and caliber video. 💯
"land of pretend time" LOL, great vid! I just got my Sentinel and Ironsides! Thanks
Didn't realize that they didn't ha e clicks in the adjustment, about to zero my justice and am a little concerned now although I probably shouldn't be. I have done this quite a few times with my riffle and with different types of optics, but usually have the 1 or 1/2 moa clicks. You were very helpful and informative with concerning to the swampfox red dots. I think I'll for sure zero at 15 first on a rest before going to 25 though. Thanks for the help.
Now this was what I was looking for,well done explained,and very understandable.Thanx for this video.I am a noob to the world of optic,and this helped a lot!!!! 😁😁😁😁😁
I enjoyed your three prep videos on Red Dot's. Changed my mind in my learning program on my new HellCat. In all my previous handguns and rifles I trained and accuraized my weapons using ONLY the Iron Sites before mounting any optics. The Basics first before enhancements. Will I ordered the Sentinel..I have note shot the Springfield Armory HellCat and barely dry fired it 25 times. Now I will mount the Sentinel and do the Dry Fire exercise you suggested before going to our clubs pistol range. Thank You 10,000 Rounds....Dennis T., Mesa, AZ
Excellent presentation!🙂
The instruction in the Kingslayer manual are backwards from this, just FYI. Hence the confusion probably.
These instructions work very well. I bought a $30 ADE RD3-009 for my TP9SFX back in 2017 just to see if I'd like Red Dots & that sucka is still rock'n at 50y with the same 2017 battery, same zero (I've taken the optic on & off many times) never had to rezero but ADE President Tony, just sent me the new 2021 version for the Caniks, the RD3-009D! Love it! Got it fine tuned at 50y and it'll drive nails. I've smoked many hogs, coyotes & Bobcats on the Ranch with mine.. Not recommended as a "Carry Optic" even though I've never had any issues but for $85 for the newer version? Can't be beat.
Would like to see your red dots tested and reviewed by SageDynamics
Way I do this, my carry ammo is 124gr HST if you put bullet info into ballistic calc you will see it is about the same as Federal American Eagle 124gr ammo. Ballistic calc height over bore and how far I want my zero let’s say 15 yards, the output will show me what that bullet will be doing at 3, 5 yards, 1/2 inch low for example, now adjust point of aim / point of impact half inch low and you should be dead on at 15. Joe
I feel silly for failing to account for height over bore. Back to the range!
Thank you for a great instructional video. Please allow me to ask a amateurish question.... Can we adjust the sight line and the bore parallel to each other.? That would make the impact point a fixed distance below the sight line until the bullet droppage becomes significant.
not a second wasted. thank you👍🏽
Like that gave pros and cons but best part was learning can buy shroud to protect red dot
great reel. where in houston is this gun range?
This is the reason I sight my laser at 30-50 yards. That way, from muzzle to that distance, the bullet is no further from the last than the laser’s offset from the bore.
Well done Mike!
best vid I've seen so far thanks
Thanks. Love the visuals which helped make this all come together.
I got my windage dialed in, but ran out of adjustment on the elevation. I was shooting about 8 inches low at 25 feet. But hey, at least I didn't have a catastrophic failure like I did on my hex wasp, which was 100% sighted in until something broke inside it and lost all zero.
You're in Houston? So am I and that exlains why I just ordered your sentinel. H town ain't what it used to be.
Excellent video!
Love how you look like Michael Keaton in Batman with the shades on 😎
Without having iron sights, where did you put the red dot in the window of the optic on those first three shots? Wouldn’t that matter?
I prefer a Cartridge sighting laser to get me closer to the bullseye.
Well explained vs others
How would this hold up on a S&W 500 mag? Would like to use this or the Kraken. Already have 4 Swampfox optics, so might as well make it 5!!
Great example why a zero at 25 yards is important along with ammo load.
Great info Mike.
Hey Mike, if you're listening; I noticed you have Night Fision suppressor sights on your Canik TP9 Elite SC. Do you happen to remember which model/version of those sights you mounted. NF's website doesn't specifically list the Canik SC. Yes I have also reached out to NF but it's Sunday and I'm the impatient type 😔
Thanks guys. You made my night.
Nice man!!!!!! Thanxx
You might have mentioned this and I just missed it. But… when sighting in my liberty, do I align my dot with the pistols fixed sights?
where in the houston world you can shoot in your back yard?
thank you Mike
Your instruction manual does not have sighting instructions. Shifting point of impact? Would have been nice to know that.
Hi Mark,
That is exactly why we made this video. We made this video to help out new shooters who are still learning.
Great video I think I am over interrupting your graphics or just not following what they are doing. You bottom drawing leads me to think that at 5 yards I am good at 25yards which I know is not the case. I will have to revisit the video
What range were you at while making this video? Yes, I do reside in Houston.
Lmfao, a smidge is also my favorite unit of measurement. Well done.
Are the adjustments the same on any of you sights? I have a Kingslayer sight Have not had a chance to take it to the range for sighting in. Thank you for your time.
Where in Houston are you???? I wanna go there too
What range did you went thru in Houston??
Thank you
Great Red dot can't wait to requalify tomorrow. My only issue is my warped Glock MOS plate. Any recommendations for a replacement plate? Also when will the ironside shield be available for the Justice?
You could buy a C&H Precision plate. Justice ironsides are about 4-5 weeks out.
I attempted to use the V4 plate from CHP but it didn't line up flush at all. I suppose i will wait on the ironside shield to be back in stock and place this red dot on my personal build.
Do you suggest zero at 25 yds for a g43x? I thought I read somewhere that you recommended 15 yards for the smaller handguns. Great vid! Waiting for my Sentinel as we speak!
This video is for all pistols & pistol dots. We recommend following Mike's advice when zeroing a pistol and should you run into any issues, let us know.
25 yards. You are handicapping the ability of your red dot sighting system to be accurate at longer ranges if you zero closer. As stated in the video if you zero @ 25 yards you’ll be approximately 1” low @ point blank to 10 yards. That’s is way more acceptable than zeroing your optic @ 5 yards and your point of impact being 6” higher at 25 yards
I mounted the sentinal on my hellcat pro. I bought a laser bore sight. Is it as easy as matching the dots? What about cowitnessing?
What should I do if I run out of turn for more elevation?
Reach out to our CS department at Support@swampfoxoptics.com and we'll further assist you.
Do you have cross-dominant vision? I noticed you seem to be using your left eye when aiming, but right handed.
Just received my liberty today. Sending my P320 slide in for the RMR cut. Can't wait to get it back. Thanks for the videos and thanks for the military discount. Do I need to install the high suppressor sights ?
Most likely you will want to install them.
Great video
Great vid. Thank you!
I'm curious on what the valid reasons are for not having clicks. I thought you were going to mention why but you skipped over it.
More than likely due to size of the detects required would make this a lot bigger and more expensive.
What iron sights are you using on the Canik SC front and rear ??? Do the standard irons co witness ok ?or the ones you are using??? I am impressed with Swamp fox .
Those are Night Fision. The standard ones don't really cowitness well enough for me. The night sights from Night Fision are affordable and high quality, I'm a huge fan and I've been recommending them to anyone who asks. The ones I'm using are part number CNK-028-003-YGZG. Tell 'em Swampfox Mike sent you!
@@SwampfoxOpticsnun nom
@@SwampfoxOptics What about the stealth optics ready from night fision? I keep hearing not to co-witenss as you don't want your optic window all cluttered up.
Awesome,concise to the point😍
Great content thank you for sharing!
Appreciate the nod to Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion.
Great video thx
Good video.
my red dot is much higher in the screen. I couldn't adjust it. is that normal?
If you are having trouble adjusting your red dot, please reach out to us at Support@swampfoxoptics.com
Great job with this video! Question… when your just starting this process where should the red dot be placed when your looking through the window (let’s say the middle to start). Than with every subsequent correction are you moving it farther away from the center?
What range is this in Houston? Man that's a nice bay/berm!
Sir I don't know if you reply to messages but I just purchased the sentienal and ironsides but the bosses on my tp9sc doesn't go through all the way to the sentienal is that normal?
Yes that is normal. The recoil pegs aren't necessary, they just increase stability of the optic.
My windage is max and I can't get it zeroed...solutions?
Nice job
I have the Sentinel, but it seems like the sight zeroing tool is to large.Is their a specific side that is slightly smaller?
There are two sides to the tool, one larger and one smaller. You will want to use the smaller side.
So I just bought the justice at 3 Moa do you still recommend to start at 5 or is 10 yards to 25 ok?
Very good info in this video. Keep up the good work. Also watched you other video with red dot pros and cons. What red dot is on your x5 p320 I’m interested in it
It's had a bunch of stuff on it for testing and eval but right now it (finally) has a production level Justice on it. It's more of a competition gun than a conceal carry gun, being so big and having 20+1 magazines that stick out, so having a big window is no disadvantage for that one. --Mike
Great info
Do you personally prefer the red 🍒 or 🍏 green dot?
Thanks! Cant wait to get my Justice on my g19 mos! Question for ya, are their any better 3rd party MOS plates for the Justice you know of?
Not off hand. Glock Plate #2 is for RMR and should work with no issues though.
CHWPS for the win!!! You won't regret it.
purchased glock 43x gen 5 mos & holosun 507k. what is the best iron sights - truglo/ameriglo night sights for co-witnessing
Check out this forum post by Swampfox Mike regarding irons and co-witnessing.
www.ar15.com/forums/industry/What-Iron-Sights-Co-Witness-with-Swampfox-Pistol-Dots-/791-299151/?r=-1&page=1&anc=3917608#i3917608