The only thing I dont like about your videos is, that they are far too short. I want more information :D Keep up the good work and thank you a lot for letting us be part of it!
I love this series and this part was really good. There is a great deal of BS out there and it is really good that you are clearing things up in this series.
False bottom is definitely the way to go if you have a g30, especially if going for whole leaf hops! I would also thoroughly recommend whirlpooling if doing a hopstand with incognito hop oil - that stuff needs all the help it can get to mix in. Plus, hell, who doesn't enjoy standing over their kettle with a power tool feeling like they are a flavour infusing god?? 😉 Thanks David.
Good to hear your experience with the false bottoms, David. I had never had any problem with it and they really increased the quality on my G30 brews. It makes it so easy to get rid of hop trub. So I know by experience it works really good and you don´t need to whirlpool with it. When Grainfather release the upgrade of the G30 I´m certain that it would be included from the factory.
Thank you Mårten. Yes, its a great upgrade but sadly these copy versions and incorrect use has caused some to talk out negatively. I was keen to set the record straight. The G70 has a false bottom and you can be sure that a new G30 will do also.
another great video David! I’m guilty of not using yeast nutrients - must write myself a reminder! Great info on the Mash temperatures! Another miss apprehension I was under - need to develop a new profile!! Finally the G30 false bottom debate - I never had an issue and I too question doing a whirlpool with a false bottom - not much point! As I have said many times - all in ones are a compromise! The false bottom fixes the filter problems on the G30 (and if you ran a Brewzilla without it the Brewzilla), but it means you can’t effectively whirlpool. You can (and I have) fit a Lauter helix to a G30 but then you have to fit a half inch valve and new fittings to the pump. You then have to modify the Lauter helix within a Bazooka screen because on boil the helix won’t work! The Brewzilla, Guten etc can’t be modified that way due to the internal pump inlet. However an external pump can be fitted but that defeats the purpose.recirculating though the grain bed (Vorlauf) will clear up the wort if you don’t have flow though the overflow but then that can lead to scorching and pumps running dry (as you would know) however once you remove the malt pipe your filter is gone! So what to do? That where the false bottom comes in! But if you look at the hole is a false bottom and compare that to a bazooka or hops spider it is still going to have some solids - I think people forget that! To get crystal clear boiled wort, I go through a Lauter helix into a boil kettle fitted with a 300 micron bazooka and use a hop spider! And I still get particulates! I think peoples expectations are far too high sometimes! Anyway like I said another great video Cheers
Many thanks Ken. You make some interesting points but as always it really comes down to personal opinion, which is best placed based on personal experience of course, which will differ :)
Great video again, 100% agree with the use of yeast nutrients, since i started using them religiously , my fermentations have been great and achieved expected values on most occasions
Hey David, thanks for the video! After watching this, I think I may have been guilty of getting a bad false bottom product. Mine seems fairly flimsy and one of the feet has warped, and no longer sits level. I'm fairly certain that this would not be the case if it truly was stainless steel and also explains why it lifts during the boil. It seems I may owe some of my fellow homebrewers an apology as I have been one of those people telling others not to buy it. Thanks for the enlightenment!
Thanks Andrew. If you suspect that this is not stainless steel then I would urge you to not use it. You never know what it could be made of. It is really sad that some companies in China made such things to satisfy the demand and to maximise their profits. False bottoms are very useful but they need to be food safe and fit for the task.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. Yeah it is sad. I bought it from Williams Brewing in the US, which advertised it as Stainless Steel, but I feel that the feet should not have warped like they have if it truly was stainless. I could be wrong, however.
Hi David, thank you for the instructions on mash steps. I brewed your initial recipe with Verdant IPA yeast and I’m brewing it again. Since I don’t really know what I’m doing, I figure the only way for me to improve is to keep brewing the same recipe. The instructions for mashing are your standard 60 min. at 65 C and 10 min. at 75 C. I was wondering if I should try brewing this beer again using your instructions in this video (30 min. at 62 C and 30 min. at 68 C).
Great and thank you. For this style and many the typical profile works very well. The important thing is to understand that it is not balanced and for those that write their own recipes this is important to understand.
@@burnsironwork Hi there, I read 70C but you’ll agree there’s not much difference. David does say after 5 min., whether this is at 60, 65 or 70C I have no idea. I have to say the result turned out pretty good for me too but I’ve decided to brew the same recipe using these new mash temperatures just to see what difference it gives me.
Wish I saw the waring about the new false bottom before I orderded it 🙈 now I will have to look for the old one. Maybe I should have paid more attention in your video about upgrading the grainfather otherwise I would be good to add the warning in that video.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I am a little torn, if I should continue with the 149. I am doing a brew that has 12% abbey malt, 12% golden naked oats, and 6% d-90 candi - so it will be a slightly darker beer at 14 SRM. (rest is 6 row and pearl malts that are much lighter) The idea behind me selecting high fermentability is that I figured the other grains would provide a little bit more on the flavour and body because of their darker character. Yeast is the lallemand voss kveik, which I am planning to use hot.
Thanks Andy. I already have three videos covering this :) Firstly a general water guide:- ua-cam.com/video/u1jSo9LLP7o/v-deo.html also this guide to doing your own water testing:- ua-cam.com/video/Es4AgDohNRU/v-deo.html plus this guide to Brewfather that shows using the water section:- ua-cam.com/video/5U0Hama2NwM/v-deo.html I hope these help :)
Many thanks Steve :) This is a paddle offered by Brewtools that I really like:- www.brewtools.com/products/accessories/brewing-accessories/paddle-with-drill-adapter-7712027-p0000000029
Hi David, great video as usual, I have observed the hose tips to aerate the wort at minute 3:40 it looks to do a good job, can you send a link where I can get one, or just the name of it? Thanks, Michel G.
Ok, great I found this in Canada, www.amazon.ca/Stainless-Spiral-Atomization-Nozzle-Industrial/dp/B00MHNEJXW/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=Aeration+spiral&qid=1610897633&sr=8-16
Thanks Michel. It sure does. Here is a link:- www.brewtools.com/products/valves-and-fittings/fittings/aeration-spiral-60120-m-npt-for-wort-aeration-7712031-p0000000033
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Was it with the pump of the Grainfather that you got the sprinkling working? I've tried it here with a 1/2" NTP and it's only dripping, there's not enough pressure.
Hi David, thanks again for another awesome video. As I am still new to brewing, there are often unanswered questions and unsolved issues, ur videos always really help to get ahead. What I like to know is how to deal with the increasing of gelatinization-temperature, reported in the malts harvested in the last hot/dry years, frequently discussed in German Forum hobbybrauer.de. How do I handle a gelatinization-temperature of 67°C when I have to mash at 63°C?
Thank you :) I would suggest experimentation with mash temperatures. Judge the results on the numbers you get back but most importantly the end beers themselves. This is the key and due to taste buds having a lot of variation something you can only judge for yourself.
HI David, Another great informative video. Congratulations! On the mash temperatures and the two steps to achieve balance. I wonder if varying the duration at each temperature step also offers the opportunity to create either a thinner body or thicker body? This rather then fixing the mash temperature higher (67-68 C) for the whole duration to achieve fuller body and lower temperature for thinner one. The recipes I seems to use tend to call for a fixed temperature at a single duration then a mash out. What is the best guide/ info (if there is any) to use to estimate the impact of changing the duration of each mash step against the impact on the beers body? Many thanks
Thanks Eugene. Yes, mash steps in the early range will create a more fermentable and yet thinner wort compared to higher temps. I have a guide to mash temperature here that I feel will give you what you need:- ua-cam.com/video/EfNdO1hFy9E/v-deo.html
Think the bottom plate i bought from China for my old G30 was one of those inferior quality ones, literally every other brew using it had a slight metallic off taste which was very off putting and disheartening considering the time/effort and money that goes into a brew day overall, personally speaking i simply cannot understand why Grainfather themselves didn't bring out more 'add ons' for the G30, i know it annoyed a lot of users who simply moved to other systems [like me] Excellent video by the way.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew First couple of brews with it were fine tbh, thought i had cracked it, then brew days were literally a coin toss whether the beer would have an off taste or not, my own fault entirely for not getting a full stainless one tbh...
I have the false bottom and liked idea of it. Upon using I found the grain basket wobbled a bit due to the metal hoop that sits in middle of the false bottom providing a pivot point- did anyone else see this and is there a simple resolution? thanks joe
Thankfully this is an easy one Joe :) You can either replace it with a smaller version in stainless steel (the sizes vary) or use some pliers to bend the hoop downwards enough to solve the issue.
Hello , What do you think spiral aeration Brewtools? is it good to use it when placing in vats for good aeration before inoculation? or is it not necessary?
Great David, thanks! Mash step a big learning point for me. Should I bother to mash in a little higher on the grainfather to compensate for the grain bringing the temp down a bit? Also, do I wait until it goes from 62 to 68 to start the 30 min timer? Thanks?
Thanks David. Always only count time spent at the desired temperature/s. Ramp up time is not counted. Extra time spent mashing will never hurt but inadequate time will. I hope this helps :)
Thanks David, great content as always! What was the attachment on the end of your silicon hose going into the fermenter that was making it so aerated around the 4 minute mark?
Thanks Louis. Is that the one shown on the end of the hose used with pumped wort? If so then this is a Brewtools product that is used to aerate wort during transfer.
Hi Jeff, this is from Brewtools. Link here:- www.brewtools.com/products/valves-and-fittings/fittings/aeration-spiral-60120-m-npt-for-wort-aeration-7712031-p0000000033
I think the yeast nutrients made by fermentis (Fermentis SpringFerm BR-2) are good but I don't understand why I should use it all in one week after the packet is opened and why they say to add it in the fermentor. Wonder if it's just a sanitry reason and so I can use it during the boil without problems.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you David, are there problems if I use this during the boil? I have seen that many yeast nutrients are in capsules, which one is better?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ah thanks. thinner was what i meant, but i have now learned that a drier beer is due to yeast! You need to get some books made sir!
Part 3 of this brewing mistakes series had a section referring to Fermentis research that aeration of the wort prior to pitching the yeast was not helpful but you show aeration here at 3.40
I see online there is disagreement about this point both ways. Wikipedia lists it as Imperial for example but others argue it. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Imperial_units
I’m a bit surprised. According to my literature such as this article: byo.com/article/the-science-of-step-mashing/ Beta amylase enzymes denature after 40-60 minutes at 65 celsius. Your statement contradicts this as well as other sources on balanced mashing profiles. I would love to hear your perspective on this.
"...and let's face it, there are plenty more things that we do as brewers to assist our yeast that are much more involved than simply adding a power" Hear! Hear! It's remarkable how often we as brewers will go to great lengths for make small changes, but neglect the easy stuff.
Thanks Scott, it sure is crazy. There are also those that resent the extra cost of course but to my mind it is a small price to pay in the general scheme of things.
The only thing I dont like about your videos is, that they are far too short. I want more information :D
Keep up the good work and thank you a lot for letting us be part of it!
Thank you. I try to give complete information, though some topics can never be covered in just one video and require more than one :)
I love this series and this part was really good. There is a great deal of BS out there and it is really good that you are clearing things up in this series.
Many thanks Alan. Yes, there certainly is!
False bottom is definitely the way to go if you have a g30, especially if going for whole leaf hops!
I would also thoroughly recommend whirlpooling if doing a hopstand with incognito hop oil - that stuff needs all the help it can get to mix in. Plus, hell, who doesn't enjoy standing over their kettle with a power tool feeling like they are a flavour infusing god?? 😉
Thanks David.
Totally agree. The resistance is from people not grasping the full way to use these.
Thanks David. I really like this Brewing Bad series 👍 Thanks a lot for your time and effort, it is highly appreciated.
Many thanks Allan. Yes, I like that I can cover quite a lot in one video with this format :)
You never fail to deliver 😎 Thanks for another great video 🍻
Much appreciated Abbo :)
Thank you as always! Have a great Sunday!!
Thank you Jamie :)
Good to hear your experience with the false bottoms, David.
I had never had any problem with it and they really increased the quality on my G30 brews. It makes it so easy to get rid of hop trub. So I know by experience it works really good and you don´t need to whirlpool with it. When Grainfather release the upgrade of the G30 I´m certain that it would be included from the factory.
Thank you Mårten. Yes, its a great upgrade but sadly these copy versions and incorrect use has caused some to talk out negatively. I was keen to set the record straight. The G70 has a false bottom and you can be sure that a new G30 will do also.
another great video David! I’m guilty of not using yeast nutrients - must write myself a reminder! Great info on the Mash temperatures! Another miss apprehension I was under - need to develop a new profile!! Finally the G30 false bottom debate - I never had an issue and I too question doing a whirlpool with a false bottom - not much point! As I have said many times - all in ones are a compromise! The false bottom fixes the filter problems on the G30 (and if you ran a Brewzilla without it the Brewzilla), but it means you can’t effectively whirlpool. You can (and I have) fit a Lauter helix to a G30 but then you have to fit a half inch valve and new fittings to the pump. You then have to modify the Lauter helix within a Bazooka screen because on boil the helix won’t work! The Brewzilla, Guten etc can’t be modified that way due to the internal pump inlet. However an external pump can be fitted but that defeats the purpose.recirculating though the grain bed (Vorlauf) will clear up the wort if you don’t have flow though the overflow but then that can lead to scorching and pumps running dry (as you would know) however once you remove the malt pipe your filter is gone! So what to do? That where the false bottom comes in! But if you look at the hole is a false bottom and compare that to a bazooka or hops spider it is still going to have some solids - I think people forget that! To get crystal clear boiled wort, I go through a Lauter helix into a boil kettle fitted with a 300 micron bazooka and use a hop spider! And I still get particulates!
I think peoples expectations are far too high sometimes! Anyway like I said another great video
Cheers
Many thanks Ken. You make some interesting points but as always it really comes down to personal opinion, which is best placed based on personal experience of course, which will differ :)
Great video again, 100% agree with the use of yeast nutrients, since i started using them religiously , my fermentations have been great and achieved expected values on most occasions
Thanks Davie :)
Hey David, thanks for the video! After watching this, I think I may have been guilty of getting a bad false bottom product. Mine seems fairly flimsy and one of the feet has warped, and no longer sits level. I'm fairly certain that this would not be the case if it truly was stainless steel and also explains why it lifts during the boil. It seems I may owe some of my fellow homebrewers an apology as I have been one of those people telling others not to buy it. Thanks for the enlightenment!
Thanks Andrew. If you suspect that this is not stainless steel then I would urge you to not use it. You never know what it could be made of. It is really sad that some companies in China made such things to satisfy the demand and to maximise their profits. False bottoms are very useful but they need to be food safe and fit for the task.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. Yeah it is sad. I bought it from Williams Brewing in the US, which advertised it as Stainless Steel, but I feel that the feet should not have warped like they have if it truly was stainless. I could be wrong, however.
It's hard to say. I think also stores themselves can get duped also.
Wow this is great info! especially because I brew on Grainfather too
Many thanks Mandy, great to hear :)
Hi David, thank you for the instructions on mash steps. I brewed your initial recipe with Verdant IPA yeast and I’m brewing it again. Since I don’t really know what I’m doing, I figure the only way for me to improve is to keep brewing the same recipe. The instructions for mashing are your standard 60 min. at 65 C and 10 min. at 75 C. I was wondering if I should try brewing this beer again using your instructions in this video (30 min. at 62 C and 30 min. at 68 C).
Great and thank you. For this style and many the typical profile works very well. The important thing is to understand that it is not balanced and for those that write their own recipes this is important to understand.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew 🙏
@@burnsironwork Hi there, I read 70C but you’ll agree there’s not much difference. David does say after 5 min., whether this is at 60, 65 or 70C I have no idea. I have to say the result turned out pretty good for me too but I’ve decided to brew the same recipe using these new mash temperatures just to see what difference it gives me.
@burnsironwork Different temps will have differing effects on the enzymes. Some will stop them straight away and others will allow them for a period.
@Beer & Blues See above :)
Thank you David
Hope you enjoyed it :)
Wish I saw the waring about the new false bottom before I orderded it 🙈 now I will have to look for the old one. Maybe I should have paid more attention in your video about upgrading the grainfather otherwise I would be good to add the warning in that video.
This is a shame. Most stores are marking their products also to avoid this.
Brewfather's High Fermentability mash profile is 149F. And lo and behold, that is what I have on a beer for tomorrow.
Yes, it works well for many brews, I use it myself a lot. My point was around balance :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I am a little torn, if I should continue with the 149. I am doing a brew that has 12% abbey malt, 12% golden naked oats, and 6% d-90 candi - so it will be a slightly darker beer at 14 SRM. (rest is 6 row and pearl malts that are much lighter)
The idea behind me selecting high fermentability is that I figured the other grains would provide a little bit more on the flavour and body because of their darker character.
Yeast is the lallemand voss kveik, which I am planning to use hot.
Sounds like something that would benefit from the balanced mash.
Thanks for the video David. Would you be able to do one on using Tap water for brewing?
Thanks Andy. I already have three videos covering this :) Firstly a general water guide:- ua-cam.com/video/u1jSo9LLP7o/v-deo.html also this guide to doing your own water testing:- ua-cam.com/video/Es4AgDohNRU/v-deo.html plus this guide to Brewfather that shows using the water section:- ua-cam.com/video/5U0Hama2NwM/v-deo.html
I hope these help :)
I use DAP for my yeast nutrient and it works very well. *Di-ammonium-phosphate*
Great, thanks for sharing :)
Great series! Off topic question. What is that mash paddle that makes its appearance at 2:32 ?
Many thanks Steve :) This is a paddle offered by Brewtools that I really like:- www.brewtools.com/products/accessories/brewing-accessories/paddle-with-drill-adapter-7712027-p0000000029
Hi David, great video as usual, I have observed the hose tips to aerate the wort at minute 3:40 it looks to do a good job, can you send a link where I can get one, or just the name of it? Thanks, Michel G.
Ok, great I found this in Canada, www.amazon.ca/Stainless-Spiral-Atomization-Nozzle-Industrial/dp/B00MHNEJXW/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=Aeration+spiral&qid=1610897633&sr=8-16
Thanks Michel. It sure does. Here is a link:- www.brewtools.com/products/valves-and-fittings/fittings/aeration-spiral-60120-m-npt-for-wort-aeration-7712031-p0000000033
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Was it with the pump of the Grainfather that you got the sprinkling working? I've tried it here with a 1/2" NTP and it's only dripping, there's not enough pressure.
Ah, time again to see what else I'm doing wrong.
I hope you find it useful Mike :)
hahah I feel the same!
Hi David, thanks again for another awesome video. As I am still new to brewing, there are often unanswered questions and unsolved issues, ur videos always really help to get ahead. What I like to know is how to deal with the increasing of gelatinization-temperature, reported in the malts harvested in the last hot/dry years, frequently discussed in German Forum hobbybrauer.de. How do I handle a gelatinization-temperature of 67°C when I have to mash at 63°C?
Thank you :) I would suggest experimentation with mash temperatures. Judge the results on the numbers you get back but most importantly the end beers themselves. This is the key and due to taste buds having a lot of variation something you can only judge for yourself.
HI David, Another great informative video. Congratulations! On the mash temperatures and the two steps to achieve balance. I wonder if varying the duration at each temperature step also offers the opportunity to create either a thinner body or thicker body? This rather then fixing the mash temperature higher (67-68 C) for the whole duration to achieve fuller body and lower temperature for thinner one. The recipes I seems to use tend to call for a fixed temperature at a single duration then a mash out. What is the best guide/ info (if there is any) to use to estimate the impact of changing the duration of each mash step against the impact on the beers body? Many thanks
Thanks Eugene. Yes, mash steps in the early range will create a more fermentable and yet thinner wort compared to higher temps. I have a guide to mash temperature here that I feel will give you what you need:- ua-cam.com/video/EfNdO1hFy9E/v-deo.html
Ok, so now have to adjust the mashing temperature for the next brew.
Maybe, it depends on what you are looking for :)
Have you ever done a video about chlorine and chloramine in tap water and how it affects a brew? Does it impact the enzymes?
No but I will add it to my list :) The concerns are around ph and off flavours though.
Hi David, How much of the Servomyces 10g packet do you use per 23l fermentation?
I follow the directions on the packet, depending on what I am using :)
Think the bottom plate i bought from China for my old G30 was one of those inferior quality ones, literally every other brew using it had a slight metallic off taste which was very off putting and disheartening considering the time/effort and money that goes into a brew day overall, personally speaking i simply cannot understand why Grainfather themselves didn't bring out more 'add ons' for the G30, i know it annoyed a lot of users who simply moved to other systems [like me]
Excellent video by the way.
Many thanks Gary. Yes, sadly these copy versions have caused all sorts of issues.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew First couple of brews with it were fine tbh, thought i had cracked it, then brew days were literally a coin toss whether the beer would have an off taste or not, my own fault entirely for not getting a full stainless one tbh...
Well, such products should not be sold in the first place really.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Suppose you are right, it was sold as SS but patently wasnt, no such worry about Brewtools parts being stainless or not...
Well, you never know with Ali Express. Still, you have a Brewtools now :)
I have the false bottom and liked idea of it. Upon using I found the grain basket wobbled a bit due to the metal hoop that sits in middle of the false bottom providing a pivot point- did anyone else see this and is there a simple resolution? thanks joe
Thankfully this is an easy one Joe :) You can either replace it with a smaller version in stainless steel (the sizes vary) or use some pliers to bend the hoop downwards enough to solve the issue.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew you know I should just have tried that first right? doh! thanks sir
No problem, it's a common question :)
Hello ,
What do you think spiral aeration Brewtools? is it good to use it when placing in vats for good aeration before inoculation? or is it not necessary?
Some yeast companies would say it is not needed when pitching from a dry sachet. Other than that it is a great thing to use.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you for your answer !
yes that's what i thought...
Great :)
Great David, thanks! Mash step a big learning point for me. Should I bother to mash in a little higher on the grainfather to compensate for the grain bringing the temp down a bit? Also, do I wait until it goes from 62 to 68 to start the 30 min timer? Thanks?
Thanks David. Always only count time spent at the desired temperature/s. Ramp up time is not counted. Extra time spent mashing will never hurt but inadequate time will. I hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks so much David
:)
Thanks David, great content as always!
What was the attachment on the end of your silicon hose going into the fermenter that was making it so aerated around the 4 minute mark?
Thank you :) Thanks Louis, this is a Brewtools product that is used to aerate wort during transfer.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew is it a fogger nozzle?
Its one of these:- www.brewtools.com/products/valves-and-fittings/fittings/aeration-spiral-60120-m-npt-for-wort-aeration-7712031-p0000000033
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks again!
:)
Thanks for the updates, David! What's the hose attachment during your yeast nutrient portion?
Thanks Louis. Is that the one shown on the end of the hose used with pumped wort? If so then this is a Brewtools product that is used to aerate wort during transfer.
Was going to ask that as well! Thank you!
:)
www.brewtools.com/products/valves-and-fittings/fittings/aeration-spiral-60120-m-npt-for-wort-aeration-7712031-p0000000033
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Oh, the aeration spiral; I see it now, cheers!
@3:31 what type of bit are you using to spray the wort into your fermenter?
Hi Jeff, this is from Brewtools. Link here:- www.brewtools.com/products/valves-and-fittings/fittings/aeration-spiral-60120-m-npt-for-wort-aeration-7712031-p0000000033
Any good places to get this false bottom that fits the G30 now? I can’t find anywhere not showing out of stock.
Anywhere that sells genuine Kegland items. Stock is still a problem though. Maybe someone has found some recently and can advise.
Thanks David, I’ll keep searching anyway. Very helpful video as always.
:)
Mash temperature- Can you just start at 68 degrees and let it cool down to 62%?
No, enzymes denature sadly meaning you need to start low and progress higher.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you!
:)
I think the yeast nutrients made by fermentis (Fermentis SpringFerm BR-2) are good but I don't understand why I should use it all in one week after the packet is opened and why they say to add it in the fermentor. Wonder if it's just a sanitry reason and so I can use it during the boil without problems.
This is to ensure freshness. If you can seal them up then that will work though. A vacuum sealer will help nicely here :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you David, are there problems if I use this during the boil? I have seen that many yeast nutrients are in capsules, which one is better?
No problem at all. Some are in capsules but they tend to cost more.
Would too long at a lower mash temp cause a drier beer?
Not necessarily but a thinner beer for sure. Your yeast dictates dryness.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ah thanks. thinner was what i meant, but i have now learned that a drier beer is due to yeast! You need to get some books made sir!
Great :) I enjoy making videos but I am also able to give information for free this way also.
With these temps in the mash,do i still need a mash out temp?
I would recommend it
@@DavidHeathHomebrew
Thanks for your help.Your vids are making a big difference to my brewing and the end result great beer!🍻
@@birdybro9403 That is great to hear :)
I’m confused. Didn’t we learn in part 3 that aeration was not advantageous?
Which section are you referring to?
Part 3 of this brewing mistakes series had a section referring to Fermentis research that aeration of the wort prior to pitching the yeast was not helpful but you show aeration here at 3.40
Ahh I see. Yes but this is just relevant to dry yeast from the sachet. Recultured yeast or liquid still needs aeration :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ok! Thanks for the clarification.
Anytime :)
Another great video but....no hairy arm warning 😂
Haha, ops! Sorry about that! :p
Fahrenheit is not "imperial".
I see online there is disagreement about this point both ways. Wikipedia lists it as Imperial for example but others argue it. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Imperial_units
I’m a bit surprised. According to my literature such as this article: byo.com/article/the-science-of-step-mashing/
Beta amylase enzymes denature after 40-60 minutes at 65 celsius. Your statement contradicts this as well as other sources on balanced mashing profiles. I would love to hear your perspective on this.
Welcome to science, it is full of differing opinions and information. It is like the media, you choose what you want to believe and trust.
"...and let's face it, there are plenty more things that we do as brewers to assist our yeast that are much more involved than simply adding a power"
Hear! Hear! It's remarkable how often we as brewers will go to great lengths for make small changes, but neglect the easy stuff.
Thanks Scott, it sure is crazy. There are also those that resent the extra cost of course but to my mind it is a small price to pay in the general scheme of things.