Nozzle Comparison Test For Printing Miniatures
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- .4mm nozzle compared to a .2mm with Cura's new variable line width feature. REALM OF THE GOBLIN KING Kickstarter: www.kickstarte...
Recommended 3D printer supplies list:
www.fatdragong...
This video dropped at a perfect time!!! I've been wondering whether to switch to .2 nozzle for my minis for the past week.Guess it's time to give it a go.... Considering Cura 5+, it is indeed a great upgrade from the previous versions....Personally I am waiting for version 5.3 to officially drop because they have greatly improved the tree support functionality making them much better to work with.
do you know when they will launch it?
I don't realize, i'm nearsighted :)
My requirements for minis are pretty low, so I'm happy with the 0.4mm nozzle
Great to see the comparison though
I Have recommended your profile thousands of times on almost EVERY HQ print I do.... just a few times today alone, I use it on big prints.
I just found your channel and it's top notch quality you're putting out! Really getting into those details that matter so much when printing miniatures. Thanks for the effort and concise information :D
haha... i've almost exclusively moved up to a .6 but I there's no denying your results.
Same, 0.6 + New Slicer engine gets good results and faster compared to 0.4 (I talk mostly about mechanical things)
Thanks for posting a comparison. So do I need to change any settings at all to get that level of detail with my 0.4 nozzle? Or is that new feature just built in and enabled by default?
Do .2 nozzles have a higher chance to clog than .4? Might have to go ahead and try it though, results are impressive.
Dude! Awesome video. Thank you for this. Just liked and subbed. You presented this so well. I've been learning tons about 0.2 nozzle usage, but this is the first video I've seen discussing the 0.4 bodies and the Cura settings. Thank you.
i used your profile but mine is still a mess
Putting a .2 nozzle in my mini today.
Do your Cura profiles work with an Ender 3 S1 or should I change some parameters to start with? Thank you!!
They will work with the S1 if you change retraction distance to 1mm, but the S1 isn't as good at printing miniatures as the bowden-feed Enders are.
Layer height may have a larger effect on quality, baring very small, "sharp" details on the model. I have found that a 0.05mm layer height yields surfaces that almost look like a brushed surface.
They take MUCH longer to print, but if you have the time (eg. low volume of prints, personal items), it's a wonderful way to maximize quality.
I'll be looking at sanding/filling next in preparation to printing the perfect surfaces.
I tried downloading your cura profiles. When I try to import them it either crashes cura or gives an error saying Super Quality isn't available on fdm. Any idea the issue and how to fix?
Make sure you are using Cura 5.6, set filament to generic PLA, and make sure you have an Ender 3 selected as the printer.
that .02 is insane, i would drop resin in a heartbeat if FDM becomes viable for detail, especially 10mm scale.
i cant make a .4mm miniature without it breaking in the legs area, do you think the arachnae engine would work better for strength and stability?
Which one of my miniatures is breaking at the legs?
Hi, I was wondering if you might be able to make a newer updated video on the settings you use? I was looking at your old one from a few years ago and a lot of the settings have changed since then! I liked the way you explained each setting and why you made it that way.
Just download my latest Cura profiles from my website (under the Resources menu) for my current settings :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Other than temperature, would these settings still be good for printing with PETG?
@@DavesChaoticBrain nope, everything is balanced for PLA.
So question is if the .4mm can do THAT what can a .2mm do ? Can it print like a 0.1mm nozzle with arachne ?
What layer height did you set for each of the nozzle in your slicer?
.1
if im printing with normal pla it should be at 200c right?
Maybe I should ditch 4.13. I'm certainly hesitant to switch to a .2 nozzle though.
I've tried your profiles for terrain, with some temperature adjustments because my PLA seems to be 210-230° rather than 195°, for normal printing and I seem to need 70° on the bed to get it to stick, anyways. Thanks.
Thank you
downloaded the Barbarian_with_Spear and am printing it now.
Maybe its time to set a new size standard that's perfect for 3d printed minis in the detail/cost department.
After all, 3d printers can do sturdy empty shells, so increasing the size does not increase time or material use that much.
Would you be so kind as to doing a size comparison test for detail and time with a 0.4 mm nozzle? =)
Thanks for your channel, its great :)
Kind regards,
Alvaro
Another question, is your Cura profile on the website up to date? Any changes you've made recently?
I wanted 0.25 mm nozzle so it doesn't clog as easily, and it can do 0.2 mm outer wall and 0.3 on infill. This was before Arachne.
0.3 mm nozzle is pretty well available and might also work fine for 0.2 mm outer walls 🤔
when i import the cura profile from you shop. it only shows limited settings under global settings and extruder 1. compared to what you show in your ` How to 3D Print Better Miniatures: Pt. 3 Resin-quality on a FDM printer! ` video. is this correct? using the latest cura. it seems to me i need to manually take over the settings from your video (which gave me amazing results thx so much!) and importing the profile doesnt do much
If you click on the top line of each subsection in Cura it'll open a menu that allows you to add more options.
I just got a ender 3v2 and started printing minis. Saw your videos, bought a 0.2mm nozzle and used your profiles. And it worked great. Even very fine prints.
Now I have got a question, since print times do not matter for me that much, I was wondering, if the ender 3 can support a 0.1 mm nozzle?
From the ender 3 cura profile it looks like it does not support it...
And sadly I can not find any article online, where someone has tried it from a web search.
Does the cura nozzle settings (which is set on top in cura together with the printer) have any impact, other than standard settings for the printing profile or can I just change the layer width to 0.1 and reducing the print speed and so on and start printing with a 0.1 nozzle?
Or alternatively, shouldn't the variable line width option make it possible to even refine prints with a 0.2mm nozzle closer to 0.1mm nozzle?
Hello, I am noob in printing, I have bought a Kingroon KP3S Pro S1 to start. My goal is print minis and scenography. Could I use your profiles with my brandnew printer?
They can be used as a starting point, but that printer is direct drive so retractions, speeds, etc will all need to be adjusted accordingly.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors thanks for the reply, which filament do you use?
@@tadeus2 Hatchbox
Hi Tom. Quick question for you. I only use Prusaslicer but could you possibly tell what else needs to be changed when switching for a .4 to a .2 nozzle? I have some .2 nozzles but been afraid to try them out as i am not sure what settings need to be changed and to what. Thanks.
Just download my Cura profile and use that as a guide for settings to get you a starting point
What was the layer height used for each nozzle?
Everything shown in this video is .1 as set in my custom FDG profiles for Cura.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thank you!
Recently bought a Davinci 1.0 Pro and was looking for upgrades and think this will fit nicely when I upgrade my hotend with changeable nozzles and go with the 2. Software has improved for this unit and a 3rd party slicer and 3d party filament ability helps too. Finally make this printer shine like they hoped it would originally.
Thank you for the informative content!
Those minis look amazing!
I tried to download your profile and use it on my cura / Anycubic Vyper 3D printer, but it says error when I upload the profile. Hope it will get fixed sometime in the future :)
Thank you for all your hard work!
Select Generic PLA in Cura and have an Ender 3 set as the printer, that will allow the profile to load.
Can you post the settings you used to print this, I have been trying to print some minis in preparation for an upcoming fey campaign and the driders have been an absolute nightmare between getting all their legs printed without breaking off during support removal and the prints have been terrible towards their swords in hand and holding fey fire. all my prints actually have been very hard with the fine details not spider webbing and just completely failing. I have had no issues printing terrain pieces or larger pieces that come out in very good detail.
All of my Cura profiles are available on my website under the Resources menu, and none of our minis require supports, so I have not included any custom supports settings.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thank you, I'll give it a shot and let you know if there is any success this time.
Tom, can i set my .4 nozzle to .2 in machine settings and get similar results or do i need to get a .2 nozzle?
You have to get a .2 nozzle
what about using .6mm nozzle for faster printing?
Nope, don't do it, terrible for gaming models.
@Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors I've been trying it for terrain and ya it's not looking that good
Is there anywhere that you have the specific settings on cura that you use? I have a non-creality printer so the profiles you have on your website wouldn't work for me
Just load them up and copy down the settings. Also, for the 5.0 profiles there are screen shots of the settings included with the profiles :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Great! I'm still somewhat new so I'm ignorant on how a lot of this stuff works. Thanks for the reply!
Hello! I have a question. How do you smooth the thumbnails? once printed they look very good but in my opinion it lacks a touch of smoothing for greater definition. any ideas?
Does acetone work as people say? I feel my English. I'm new to 3d printing
None of the prints you see in my video are 'smoothed', acetone won't work on PLA (only ABS which I refuse to use.)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I can imagine... ABS is a bit toxic right... I don't want to use it with children at home, that's why I don't want resin either. but any way to sand or something similar to polish it a bit and not see the lines? I don't know if there is any technique. I want to paint them but I suppose the lines will show a lot, that's why I would like to smooth them out. Are the minis good when painted? Do you use any special technique? Are the lines not very noticeable? Again, thanks for answering and for all the help you offer.
@@josedkc if you use my slicer profiles and FDG minis the are specifically designed for FDM the lines should be minimal. I can't guarantee that for other manufacturers who don't design their products for FDM.
The painted minis at the, any sanding or other pre paint processing?
.
Just slight trimming with XActo to remove any strings/blobs. Then straight priming with spray Krylon or Rustoleum flat gray (in the winter I airbrush with Stynelrez primer).
Are you going to be releasing a new profile for the newer version of cura soon?
Yes, 5.2 profiles come out next week
any tips on supports? I always destroy the model trying to remove them especially when they wrap around the model.
None of our FDG miniatures require supports :)
Even the models holding weapons horizontally over head? It looks like it would try to print mid air?
@@_HoneySweet even those print without supports (they are specifically engineered for FDM printers). NOTHING we sell requires slicer supports.
ironing makes a huge difference as well. I'm so excited for variable wall widths to become a thing. External walls printed at 0.8mm layer heights, internal walls printed at 0.16mm and infill at 0.28mm. Imagine if we get non-planar ironing to complement...
Ironing is useless on gaming miniatures
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors that makes sense - but I would like to point out that it's pretty great for scenery. After a lot of tweaking I'm getting pretty decent results on a relatively stock (new motherboard, better fans) Ender 3 original.
Love the info! Thx man
How does it compare to resin printing?
Much safer, not toxic!
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I'm getting a new printer and after watching your videos I think the quality you're pulling from FDM printer has convinced me to get it over the resin.
Could you tell me the size of these minis. Thanks
28mm or 28mm heroic if I remember correctly.
The mini file is a free download from us, just download the file to check it out :)
Well, after two days solid of literally dozens and dozens of failed attempts on my CR10s pro trying and adjusting this channel's Cura settings to print ANYTHING, I have given up. Nothing works at all. I will have to buy a resin printer.
Are you printing our FDG miniatures using our latest Cura profiles for 5.2x?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrorsThanks for the reply. No, my PC was built by Thomas Eddison personally 😄 so I'm using your Cura 4.11 profile on my Creality CR10s Pro. I have pulled my hair our tweaking everything but can't seem to find a balance between no adhesion, solidified print and support lump, or crumbles like chalk. I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle.
@@tech10k14 update to Cura 5.2 and use my 5.2 .2mm nozzle profile and one of my minis
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thanks I'll give it a try.
Well... My Windows 8 PC won't run the Cura 5.2 (as I suspected), but I have a new super laptop on the way so no problems there. The miniatures I'm trying to print are not yours. They are mine. I'm fairly adept with Sketchup and create my own.
What layer height did you use?
.1mm, that is the best for 28-32mm minis. I also used my custom Cura profiles available on my website.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors thank you. Do you ever use Klipper for your minis with input shaping and pressure advanced?
@@LouisACasadia no
How about 0.6?
Not suitable for minis
do folks still try and print miniatures with a filament printer?!? Thought it only made sense to use the toxic resin printers for these... same pricing for the printer - just have to deal with the toxic chemicals and clean up of resin but MUCH better quality out of the box!
Not everyone wants to deal with toxic chemicals?
@@Squidberries Correct... although I would love to print my own items using resin - it is too dangerous still, the fumes, the cleaning, etc... when they make a totally closed system for these dirt low prices, perhaps I'll jump in!
I have been given a fdm printer. I can’t afford a new printer, with the curing and washing station and the room to keep it, etc.
@@truckerdave8465yeah... but you will be disappointed if you try to print minis using FDM... better to just buy them and use the printer for other things like scenery and/or tchotchke's
During the winter there is absolutely no way I can handle resin fumes, so here I am
Plus I can’t really handle them during the summer either, since I lack good windows, and bugs make nests in any container I put outside, plus I don’t have constant reliable electricity outside, I’m not sure if slight electrical fluctuating could effect the print quality but I assume
Or just use resin printer 🤷🏽♂️
What about people who are allergic to resin? What about people who are not able to set up the necessary ventilation precautions to safely use resin? What about people who do not want to deal with the mess of resin printing? What about people who have small children and cannot securely place the resin printer and toxic resins away from them?
Thx for your Work dude ! I got. Into printing Last year and really wanted the resin Detail Prints But im very allergic to Alot of chemicals and decided to Go the fdm way
And all the Horror stories of resperstory Problems and Long Term health problems Cancer etc.
The Last Nail in the coffin For me was a story from a friend who is a chemist at 3M
As they startet using resin Printers Even with super high safety Standards in a laboratory with high grade resporators and Ventilation
After some years some got cancer and some got Lung damage
And they did Tests on Skin and Organ tissue samples and this stuff was everywhere Even with all the safety massures
And today it is Known to Wander through your Whole Body Even to your Brain !
It is no Wonder that companys that make this Stuff Hide alot of information about ingredients and the making process
As Long this is so dangerous or more studies have proven me wrong i will keep using my Fdm
Thx a lot dude sorry for my English I’m german
@@KevinBenjaminMusic I worked in the model kit industry for two decades and we used SLA resin printers for prototyping, the docs said the people who started having lung and kidney issues were most likely caused by the VOCs of the resin, and we took all professional safety precautions (active air exchange, goggles, gloves, long sleeves, etc). The simple truth is the VOCs will build in your body over time, and the results can be tragic.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors yeah its Kind of Tragic when U See all those people on UA-cam how they handle Resin and Print in there bedrooms and such
People call me crazy but i even have my printer in a tent enclosure with Ventilation Out the Windows in the basement
Better save then sorry
And i have a Allergic wife and have 2 dogs
I Had so many discussions with people online and they wont listen and its a lost Fight