Sellers 6G Drill Grinder: Fabricating a Thumb Lever and Further Reassembly
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- Sellers 6G Drill Grinder: Fabricating a Thumb Lever and Further Reassembly
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Keith, I'm 75 years old and just love watching your videos. Maybe it's because we both came into this world before all the technology and watching you make parts and rebuild these old but great machines brings back a lot of good memories i had forgotten about. Thank you !!!
Hello Keith, at 3:14 you put grease on the surface to make it slide better. I have found that using grease collects the grinding material and damages the surface, what I have found the works much better is automotive paste wax just put it on let it dry and wipe it off you will find that the surface slides very well and does not collect the grinding dust particles.
You beat me to it. Yes, no grease. Better with paste wax.
@@steve6139I was thinking that slideway oil would be a better option than grease.
teflon dry lube works pretty well too
@@steve6139can't help but agree about grease, although I might have suggested one of the more modern "dry" spray lubes
@steve6139
I have a spray waxy material recommended for woodworking machines that provides a slippy surface, controls surface rusting, and takes seconds to apply. I now use it on all machined surfaces, and surprisingly, it doesn't even attract sawdust or metal shavings.
A bit over fifty years ago, I took a couple years of machine shop in high school, working on lathes from the thirties and forties which set me up for a half a dozen jobs in machine shops and ultimately building my own shop of machine and welding. Between CEE and this, these are my two favorite U-tube channels I watch every week. I have broken my right hand several times, mainly because I'm a lefty and my right hand is my "anvil hand". It's good to see you using your broken hand again. I really enjoy seeing the old machines coming back to life. Thanks!
Sadly most schools don’t offer machine shop or auto repair classes anymore, not that everyone who took the classes would turn into machinist or mechanics but they would give the students an insight into what the profession took. From there they would have an idea if it was something they would like to pursue or maybe they didn’t want anything to do with that line of work. Now it’s not something they can put on the maybe I would like to do this or cross it off the list. Out of all the guys that that I know that took those classes, there’s not one of them who regrets taking them. It’s a shame there gone.
It’s just something I wanted to say, Have a good one!
@@Hoaxer51 I've got great grandkids now, and it hurts to know what you say will never be true for them. I've been retired since covid, and I keep my shop open for local neighbors support and a couple friends that have been using it with me for a couple decades. Last summer I took my niece in and taught her basic welding. I worked with the local community college a decade ago, teaching minimum wage workers to tig weld aluminum at a custom freezer box business that supports local fishing industry.
Between what I learned from my dad, high school shop, and college classes, I am a die hard do it yourselfer. Doubled the size of my house, fixed plumbing, installed electrical, repaired appliances, and fixed my cars. I'm now 75 and only in the last 10 years have I hired others for major work. I really appreciate what I learned at a young age that gave me the confidence to tackle projects with no prior experience.
The left hand seems to be working! Thanks for another coffee morning with Keith!
Nice to see you using the left hand as normal! Looking forward to seeing that drill grinder in action! Also anticipating the completion of the stoker engine frame casting completion and seeing the tooling solution.
Thanks for bringing us along for the ride.
Looks good, I like the green. Glad to see your hand working well. Time for another cup of coffee.
Thanks Keith for the video. Good to see you getting better. Have a good weekend!
If you want to preserve the surface of your grinder table, clean it and then apply some paste wax. This works well on any cast iron surface.
Interesting project, Keith. Thanks
Thanks for putting a microphone on the angle grinder.
I just love cast iron machines. Every little piece is so much overkill. Trays, levers, etc is all cast iron even that probably the manufacturer knew its totally overkill but still did that.
Thanks Keith this project has been a very interesting and enjoyable one. 😃
Good morning Keith.
For the depth stop at 20:20 i would use a bolt with knurled head used upside down. Its the easiest way to use it without needing tools
Always inspiring
Good morning keith! Have a great weekend!
Awesome repair I like the bolt idea.
Iam surprised you didn't drill the hole first.
That good work safety using that plywood to protect your fingers.
Always learning something new. Thanks!
Lot easier to drill your hole while it is still a big flat bar. OR- just change the stop screw from socket head to hex head to engage the original piece.
The rough cutting of the lever reminded me of a jalapeno pepper.
Fine job, thanks again Keith.
Thank you for another Great video. Cheers
If you had the room, you need what I had before I retired in 2000. I had a small Linde eye-type burning matching in my shop. It was pre-CNC. Using a piece of good, white, butcher's paper, you could draw out the shape you required, and place that on the tracer table. Set the kerf, and you had a part. It saves time on making anything with complex geometries.
So on your steering wheel, and the stop bar to the left of it. That's a leg biter. If it was me, I would make a custom cap to screw on it, so that when you snag your leg across it, it still hurts, but it will glide across the cap and not rip clothes or skin.
If you don't find the original to the adjuster cap screw, just make a nice one with a bit bigger head, and kneraled head for finger adjust, and put a light spring under it so vibrations don't back it out as your using the machine. 😊
Love the channel, Keith.
When you finish the Sellars grinder, would you do a walk through and document all the steps to using this grinder with a real bit? I have followed from the beginning, but I don’t quite get a couple of the adjustments wheels/levers. Thanks.
Awesome work!
The grease will trap the grinding grit then turn it into GRINDING PASTE, cast will slide against each other also any SUDS water will help. Come on Keith!!
Keep you nose to the grindstone Keith and this job will be done in no time. Thanks for sharing another great episode rebuilding this machine!
Since it is a drill grinder that works literally and proverbially.
Sweet.
The old washer looked to be at least twice as thick. I'm finding the same thing rebuilding a Delta 15" planer. If I need to replace washers, I need to get the special schedule 80 'extra thick' washers as the normal ones they sell are paper thin. I am just re-bluing the old stuff wherever possible.
That drill sharpening machine has all the bells and whistles! Nice job restoring it.
I love doing these sort of little "perfection" jobs, just to make the things right. I would have left the swivel stop on the big bar till I'd have cut off the majority of the metal, but that's just me.
I need you to paint the clamp on the band saw.
Haha, someone else that has their OCD flair up when watching Keith use his band saw. I knew I wasn’t the only one! Lol
Are you still using "Citristrip" for most of your paint removal? If so...any secrets to using it with better results? Holy garbage this stuff is. I have an old wine press (dates back to the 20's based on the info I can get from the castings), and after 3 and 4 douses of Citristrip the paint is STILL coming off. I've even left it on, covered for HOURS and it just barely gets a layer off. My old "Strip-Eze" would have had this down to bare metal in one treatment.
I am now having second thoughts on my color choice too. I went with "Black" because that is what the 'top coat' of paint was, but looking it seems the 3 primary colors used way back when was Green, Red and Black. The bottom color was RED...I already started painting some of these smaller parts (the press mechanism itself).
Nice 👍👍👍😎😎😎
👍😎
Instead of chrome plated rods had you thought about using stainless steel?
just think about how many hours of use it had to wear out that pivot shaft and bushings you replaced.
That machine will be good as new when you finish with it.🙂🙂
Good morning
great project
Moving along fast! Such a difference, too, from the original shape it came in.
check parts list in your libraty
Keith…. You need to get a Sterling Drill Grinder…. They are way less complicated than that monster… and takes up so much less room in the shop
If the brass handle is just tarnished, nothing like old school Flitz polish.
When I was in the Army back in 1970 we all used Brasso to polish all of our brass attire. I wonder if they even make that stuff anymore.
@@Hoaxer51 Still available in Canada. Silvo for silverware too.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Thanks Keith
Thanks Keith!
This machine never looked so good.
I looked online and the was nothing in there, no screen at all.
Fascinating stuff!
Does the metal bandsaw have a special blade such as carbide. Looks like a regular blade.
Most shops use Bi-Metal blades for metal cutting. HSS teeth are factory welded on to carbon steel backs. Thus the name Bi-Metal. They look like regular blades but are much tougher and harder.
Thats one big apple peeling machine.
Do us a favor Keith. When you edit the videos , can you reduce the audio level when you run a machine (to what your voice comes in at).
I have to turn the level up to hear you but the machines blow me away.
Eg. the grinder at 1:58 was WAAY above what your voice was running at. Startling.
I thought I was watching a Tom Lipton video there for a minute 🙂
I bet the stop is way more complex than you think and when all the dust settles you have to do some modifications to the thumb lever.
👍⚙🗜
Boy if anything is a candidate for a tumbler or a sandblaster it’s this lever piece. It could look like it came from the factory.
Thumb lever? Still fixing your hand??