2:47 the capacitors are fully empty... liked that one. Ps. Normal installation in The Netherlands has B characteristic fuses not A.... ps. I have a C characteristic also because my Rotel power amp also triggers my fuse. Even when there is almost no load on that group.
It is very impressive to see how much you've done to put your studio and console together. I learn a lot from these. You're a pretty amazing guy! You should links to this video and the ones about how you refurbished your console to any client who gives you trouble over fees or upfront payments!
Thanks for this video. Here in my area ( a medium-sized city in Brazil ) energy is quite unstable, and sometimes we have lightning ( which is a creepy matter for us audio people ). Sometimes I have to physically unplug all my cords from the AC outlets. I'm dreaming of bringing solar energy to my studio&life someday. I see you are a DIY guy, so it would also helpful if you list some of the brands of your support hardware ( cables,powers supplies etc) as well as a block diagram of the wiring...that would be great. Thanks again
Everything that is made of metal should be grounded for safety. Even if its behind a transformer. Audio ground is most of the times “virtual”, meaning the 0V bus of the power supply.
Interesting video, it's cool to see how you set up your signal flow over there. For your main power, you mentioned fuses, I understand the reason that you want slo blow fuses, but are you saying that there are no breakers? In the U.S. in older construction fuses were used, but since the late 70's breaker boxes are now the norm. That means if you get a power surge you don't have to replace a fuse, just flip the breaker back on.
We couldn’t get by without Thunderbolt and Dante- all of our Apollo, Focusrite and SSL require it. How do you get by with AVB- do you use a lot of OTB analog?
question: I'm running MOTU as well, had been having issues with it dropping connection while using thunderbolt. so I connected via the AVB port to my Mac. when discussing the MOTU drop outs with a tech from MOTU they advised against connecting directly to you computer with the AVB. that is strictly meant for connecting MOTU units together or running them on a netwerk. have you had any issues connecting directly to your computer via AVB, and, why would it be an issue? trying to figure out why I was told not to. thanks
Nice Video!!! Whats the name of the power supply for the console? I'm running a Yamaha console and searching for a way to cut the power costs down a bit.
Yes, but we still run on 220 because we have super old equipment that will not run on 230... For instance, some tube amplifiers will have a way shorter tube life when the voltages in it are too high...
it is much easier(and cheaper) to simply lower the voltage in the studio than mod every amp etc, to 230V. i do the same thing in my studio i think it is the best way to do it. all fast mods (adding drop resisstors etc) produce heat in the epipment, and that is something you don't want. modern equipment with switching power supplies will have no problems with the lower voltage.
Unbalanced cables are fine up to 3 meters, unless you have really long arms, you are going to want everything tweakable that close anyway. Sure for other things, mics and speakers that may be further away, go balanced/XLR. If you are getting weird noise and dont know why...it's probably a household appliance, usually a fridge or air con, something that oscillates, so try and put that appliance on another circuit in the house. Radio and mobile phone interference is another nightmare though. It helps to turn off your router, your phones and tablets if you are recording, (dont wear a foil hat or stand in water either.) But as we all know, those of us who live in close quarters to other people, just as you are recording your masterpiece... your neighbour recieves a very important text message...His message is this... 'Sup bro, How's it going, you good? Listen, how many women did Barry Manilo sleep with alright, I got to know, hit me up' But to you, in your headphones it's... bee- bee-bee-bee beep, beep...be..be.be.BEEP!! And you go, oh well bet that didnt happen to the Beatles when they were recording the White Album. My only advise is to kill all your neighbours, and turn off your refrigerator. Kill all your neighbors and put them in a turned off refrigerator and shove balanced cables up their__________________This comment has been censored by the UA-cams
even though you have air conditioner, i guess those spots near the floor, behind racks, must be between 25 and 30°, no ? don't you have a 'FI' protection switch/ circuit breaker, or whatever you call it, that can be a 20 milliseconds, 30ms, 100... 300ms... ? if the whole circuit has a microscopic default, that makes the voltage go, ex, from 230v to 229.9.. or 220... in other words, if output voltage is different than input (via neutral hire), it shuts down.. in 30ms.. 300ms... because a standard fuse, if you have a short circuit, hardware default, broken component, and it takes 1 or 2 seconds for the cables to warm up, and exceed the nominal amperage. ..1 or 2 seconds could totally destroy the device. i say this, but.. your installation must be prepared for these things, you 've never had issues until today, right.
On a short circuit, the breaker will pop in a few ms... The thing I'm talking about is large current spikes when turning on, a C character tolerates those spikes, while an A character doesn't
White Sea Studio yes i got it.. it's just that slow fuses are good for huge spikes... but most important, to protect installations, like houses... (an hoover at 30'000 rpm can induce huge spikes... or an electric saw... etc)... but for protecting critical devices, human bodies... a 300ms to 20ms or even 10ms FI .. is the best.
So, when they test the installation, they do test these things, since the breaker has a slowing current and a tripping current. They are testing cable impedance/resitance/inductance/capacity stuff to see if a C breaker would still trip in critical situations...
Are these breaker types for European installations? I have done a load (pun intended) of work here in the states, and have not heard of this. We do have GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Inturrupt) which trip immediately when a fault is detected. These are used on any device within 6 feet of a water source, on all exterior, and any bath receptacle. Amazed that you are patching all XLR, no 96 point TT bays. Fewer faults in the long run, better connectivity, though you do lose the normalling versatility. Love the Neumann PSU!
the goal is to get balanced power: your isolation transformer needs a secondary side center tap connected to the ground on your outlet and a screen winding between the primary and secondary coil properly grounded you need insulation monitoring for safety reasons normal rcds won't work well with isolation transformers. most 1:1 transformers increase the voltage a little bit. so the transformer need to have some extra taps (preferably on the primary side, to keep the secondary balanced) to lower the voltage a little bit.
It was pretty painful to cram myself in these tight spots to explain and show everything... I need a roomier studio!
Sir! Thank you!
2:47 the capacitors are fully empty... liked that one.
Ps. Normal installation in The Netherlands has B characteristic fuses not A.... ps. I have a C characteristic also because my Rotel power amp also triggers my fuse. Even when there is almost no load on that group.
Don't we all?
Yes please, Sound Vision Studio tour also. Thanks!!
It is very impressive to see how much you've done to put your studio and console together. I learn a lot from these. You're a pretty amazing guy! You should links to this video and the ones about how you refurbished your console to any client who gives you trouble over fees or upfront payments!
Thanks for the tour! Nice and clean. Yes, let's get the tour of Sound Vision Studio as well. Hope you can get the big console going someday!
Thanks for this video. Here in my area ( a medium-sized city in Brazil ) energy is quite unstable, and sometimes we have lightning ( which is a creepy matter for us audio people ). Sometimes I have to physically unplug all my cords from the AC outlets. I'm dreaming of bringing solar energy to my studio&life someday. I see you are a DIY guy, so it would also helpful if you list some of the brands of your support hardware ( cables,powers supplies etc) as well as a block diagram of the wiring...that would be great. Thanks again
This was awesome to see Wytse! I would love to see the SVS tour as well!!
I will discuss it with ze big bozz
Thanks for all the floor crawling! Anything to say about the grounding of the gear?
Everything that is made of metal should be grounded for safety. Even if its behind a transformer. Audio ground is most of the times “virtual”, meaning the 0V bus of the power supply.
Nice vid. Please show us the big studios. Cheers.
I want to see the sound vision!!!
Super informative and clear! thanks!
Bro been a fan for awhile I have learned a lot from you man thank you def want to see sound vision !
Yes please, a tour would be awesome ;)
this video is packed with useful knowledge. thank you
also, i forgot...
it would be cool, to see the main studio, and watch you singing and being recorded ;)
yes, that would be great too!
Studio tour please. I vote yes.
Interesting video, it's cool to see how you set up your signal flow over there. For your main power, you mentioned fuses, I understand the reason that you want slo blow fuses, but are you saying that there are no breakers? In the U.S. in older construction fuses were used, but since the late 70's breaker boxes are now the norm. That means if you get a power surge you don't have to replace a fuse, just flip the breaker back on.
There are normal modern breakers :-)
WHERE DID YOU GET THOSE BACK PANELS FOR THE XLR. I LIKE THAT AS A PATCH BAY.
I'd like to see the Sound Vision setup.
Please do a video of Sound Vision!
yes yes yes, i'd love to see the infrastructure of the full studio. how to organize 90+ channels.
We couldn’t get by without Thunderbolt and Dante- all of our Apollo, Focusrite and SSL require it. How do you get by with AVB- do you use a lot of OTB analog?
So how do I get the money to buy the same?!
What was the reason for using only male XLR in the patchbay? Did you do anything special for grounding?
Very informative. Thank you
question: I'm running MOTU as well, had been having issues with it dropping connection while using thunderbolt. so I connected via the AVB port to my Mac. when discussing the MOTU drop outs with a tech from MOTU they advised against connecting directly to you computer with the AVB. that is strictly meant for connecting MOTU units together or running them on a netwerk. have you had any issues connecting directly to your computer via AVB, and, why would it be an issue? trying to figure out why I was told not to.
thanks
i want a coat.. you should do t-spring lab coats haha..
Nice Video!!! Whats the name of the power supply for the console? I'm running a Yamaha console and searching for a way to cut the power costs down a bit.
The power supply is a modulair rack made by Schroff
do you think it will work on my Yamaha pm 1800?
Not sure, which voltages does it use? Maybe send me an e-mail or personal message, I don't check the comments that often....
I would love to have a private chat about exactly what else you did to your studio audio power grid.
Like to see SoundVision studio.
are now almost 20years that in EU the normalized voltage is (or it should be) 230V
Yes, but we still run on 220 because we have super old equipment that will not run on 230... For instance, some tube amplifiers will have a way shorter tube life when the voltages in it are too high...
it is much easier(and cheaper) to simply lower the voltage in the studio than mod every amp etc, to 230V. i do the same thing in my studio i think it is the best way to do it. all fast mods (adding drop resisstors etc) produce heat in the epipment, and that is something you don't want. modern equipment with switching power supplies will have no problems with the lower voltage.
No patch bay. That would drive me absolutely crazy.
What does it take to run 192k sample rates?
more more more!
8:52 that's what she said. Couldn't help myself.
Is it safe to hook up a small studio laptop turntables keyboard into the socket controlled by the lightswitch?
Unbalanced cables are fine up to 3 meters, unless you have really long arms, you are going to want everything tweakable that close anyway. Sure for other things, mics and speakers that may be further away, go balanced/XLR. If you are getting weird noise and dont know why...it's probably a household appliance, usually a fridge or air con, something that oscillates, so try and put that appliance on another circuit in the house.
Radio and mobile phone interference is another nightmare though. It helps to turn off your router, your phones and tablets if you are recording, (dont wear a foil hat or stand in water either.) But as we all know, those of us who live in close quarters to other people, just as you are recording your masterpiece... your neighbour recieves a very important text message...His message is this... 'Sup bro, How's it going, you good? Listen, how many women did Barry Manilo sleep with alright, I got to know, hit me up' But to you, in your headphones it's... bee- bee-bee-bee beep, beep...be..be.be.BEEP!! And you go, oh well bet that didnt happen to the Beatles when they were recording the White Album.
My only advise is to kill all your neighbours, and turn off your refrigerator. Kill all your neighbors and put them in a turned off refrigerator and shove balanced cables up their__________________This comment has been censored by the UA-cams
120 & 120 does not equal 220. It equals 240V. Put a meter on there, you’ll see 240V RMS
OK But actually 192 kHz?
Yes, less latency
even though you have air conditioner, i guess those spots near the floor, behind racks, must be between 25 and 30°, no ?
don't you have a 'FI' protection switch/ circuit breaker, or whatever you call it, that can be a 20 milliseconds, 30ms, 100... 300ms... ? if the whole circuit has a microscopic default, that makes the voltage go, ex, from 230v to 229.9.. or 220... in other words, if output voltage is different than input (via neutral hire), it shuts down.. in 30ms.. 300ms...
because a standard fuse, if you have a short circuit, hardware default, broken component, and it takes 1 or 2 seconds for the cables to warm up, and exceed the nominal amperage. ..1 or 2 seconds could totally destroy the device.
i say this, but.. your installation must be prepared for these things, you 've never had issues until today, right.
On a short circuit, the breaker will pop in a few ms... The thing I'm talking about is large current spikes when turning on, a C character tolerates those spikes, while an A character doesn't
White Sea Studio yes i got it.. it's just that slow fuses are good for huge spikes... but most important, to protect installations, like houses... (an hoover at 30'000 rpm can induce huge spikes... or an electric saw... etc)... but for protecting critical devices, human bodies... a 300ms to 20ms or even 10ms FI .. is the best.
So, when they test the installation, they do test these things, since the breaker has a slowing current and a tripping current. They are testing cable impedance/resitance/inductance/capacity stuff to see if a C breaker would still trip in critical situations...
Are these breaker types for European installations?
I have done a load (pun intended) of work here in the states, and have not heard of this. We do have GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Inturrupt) which trip immediately when a fault is detected. These are used on any device within 6 feet of a water source, on all exterior, and any bath receptacle.
Amazed that you are patching all XLR, no 96 point TT bays. Fewer faults in the long run, better connectivity, though you do lose the normalling versatility. Love the Neumann PSU!
1 to 1 transformer i the solution.
the goal is to get balanced power: your isolation transformer needs a secondary side center tap connected to the ground on your outlet and a screen winding between the primary and secondary coil properly grounded you need insulation monitoring for safety reasons normal rcds won't work well with isolation transformers. most 1:1 transformers increase the voltage a little bit. so the transformer need to have some extra taps (preferably on the primary side, to keep the secondary balanced) to lower the voltage a little bit.
1:16 clean dogshit plz!
Thanks for the useful minutia :)