When I first got into car audio back in the late 80's I was a loud bass head. Then I met an old guy at a local sound off. I learned so much from him. He told me a good sounding system should sound great at low volume as well at max volume. The bass, mids and highs should sound the same....only louder.
There is SQL which is a hybrid of SPL and SQ. The JL 13W7 is the loudest sub that is considered a pure SQ sub. Fi, Savard, and a few others make pretty solid SQL subwoofers. I like 144 to 148dB of sub and 107 to 110 dB of mids and highs the best. Around 100w 90dB efficient sound quality speakers, and 2 12s at 3k to 7k wrms in a ported enclosure would best suit my tastes.
Yup. Unless you're competing, 1000watts for bass is pretty much the threshold before you start drowning everything else out and your "audio system" becomes a bass system. If thats your thimg, sure, build ya bass, buddy. However, if you want louder bass to ENJOY MUSIC, find the best SQL sub between 1000-1500watts and run it.
Man this right here is what we all wanted to hear. Some of us do what we can but we dream of those nasty 6th order windy builds. Being a cancer patient I lost all of my small equipment back in 2019 I went from my small set up to no bass for a while. Then I threw in a home subwoofer with a kicker 300.1 amp 😅. Then the bug hit and little by little I started working on my builds Wolfram audio was a huge stepping stone for me to get out of the hole of depression and get my relationship with my kids back to par. God is good and we are still slowly building to get to that goal. My build is puny compared to most builds but the sentimental value it holds for my kids and I is beyond explainable.
I prefer the middle ground. Sound as good as possible but with the ability to pound with bandwidth in my daily. But would want a slamming low banger for a demo/ project ride.
Me personally I like both or SQL. I want it to sound amazing and get loud when I want it to. Now it doesn't have to be SQ competition good with $5000 components sets, but like 2 or 3 pairs of a good decent $100-350 set of speakers with dedicated amps and crossovers so its nice and crispy, and some 12 or 15 inch subs. I dont need it to be four 18's on a 20k loud, but I like the option to turn up the bass when I want. Too much bass and the option to turn it down is better than having the bass knob turned all the way up and still not enough. When it's not enough bass your gonna keep turning the volume up sending a clipped signal (distortion) to you subs until they go up in smoke.
back in the day when i use to compete my friends would use to compliment me on how crisp on how my sound quality was and asked me how i got it to sound so good. i hated if my sound would distort or sounded badly it would drive me insane. even if it rattled to much outside it got to me lol.
I personally think that sound deadner should be put in all vehicles with systems cause I don’t even like hearing other peoples cars rattling much less my own. It’s affordable and can definitely be done in stages but I agree if my car rattles it drives me a bit crazy. Some of it just can’t be prevented but for the most part you can control the biggest part of it
Same, it’s a whole entire spectrum. There is a whole other level in SQL competition that is not touched on here in regards to proper staging, pin point time alignment, sound floor reduction, realistic recording reproduction and the Installation Quality component compared to a straight up basic tuned loud and clear systems. The Goal in SQL is to build and tuned to a point “you could here a mosquito fart” (slight exaggeration). … A true SQL system is really challenging to achieve. A perfect SQL system would have a driver and amps specifically designed and purpose built for each frequency on its own channels, but that would be a step from impossible. In either SQL and SPL the major trade offs including Space, Budget and Quality still apply. The EU and Asian market has a way deeper scene for SQ (IMO) … it’s great to see the diversity in car audio overall. The big question is where does SPL go (without relying on plug-in generators) when power sources change in 15-20 years as gov regulations change?
The last part you said man that’s what I always think when I worked in Tesla factory. And until this day I believe we are also living in the best era of car audio. Big beefy amps and subs because next 15 years we might not be able to run those babies like now :/. Same reason why I kinda pushing my self to install all my gear to my car. I have old school soundstream equipment but now I want to go full install because I don’t know if future I going to be able to play with them like now.
@@juliobello4561 you can do it but it’s how long. You can see posts a few weeks back where JP featured a nice Tesla with a banging system, but it was on a a generator it looked like.
i ordered another JP8 so I can strap 2 of them together. I still wasn't getting the strapping part and I called down4sound and they helped me out big time took me step by step and were not annoyed that I asked so may questions, I know they wanted me to get it right, thanks
I don't really like strapping two amplifiers together more current being drawn because they are still one ohm stable bridge two 2ohms I have 2 jp23 amplifiers and they are not strong enough for 2 fi 15s hc I have a 8k taramps 2ohms and it's beating them up I ordered a bass 8k taramps and I'm going to run it .5ohms the impedance rise should bring it up between. 8 and 1.3 at the highest
@@ceciljones1248 I was told about 6 years ago, by 2 different amp repair guys, that strapping amplifiers were hell, on the input side. My tow Crescendo 3500's both failed that way...and one was sent to one repair guy, and the other 2 another repair guy, and both said the same. Idk if its all true, but what they said. I went with one amp per sub after that, and was more efficient use of power, and the amps were alot cooler overall.
@@Chuck_Sanders It seems like you lose power when you strap them together ?You are correct it's better to run them separately I really don't like Korean amplifiers anymore I been having good luck with taramps
Im satisfied with the setup i have in my daily, 4 skar evl 6.5s upgraded all stock coaxials with skar coaxials, kicker zx750.1 sub side and kicker zx350.4 on the coaxials
I remember back in the late 90’s we built sealed walls for spl. And I family built a potted box this early first system I’ve had in over 20yrs and boy two 12’s in a ported box belies the sealed box I had them in out of the water on the lows. And back then in the 90’s 5k amp on two 12’s was not something you saw ever.
My personal experience with this is that you have to have balance; you have to have clean bass and loudness...if you can be heard and can still hear the words crisply you're good. You said the exact words- build a system to your liking because you have to be happy with your finished product.
@markfrederick5012 Me personally I haven't heard much of CT sounds but I've heard DD and JL; I'm going to be honest.. soft bass is one of those things that can be achieved by Dynomat but JL makes high quality products but you're going to pay for it. I have a friend that has a SUV with DD amps and subs and it flexes the walls and roof when it hits. I have a Cobalt with a SKAR 8 enclosure kit that sounds great and no rattle that's all I need for it.
I Tell guys all the time on my channel videos does car audio no JUSTICE. Especially like you said on bigger systems or systems that achieve a certain DB level.
When someone says SQ to me I think of UA-camr Pssound. Go watch a few of his build videos. Some might get into the 140db range. Its more about imaging, depth, and reproducing sound exactly how it was recorded. Very difficult to do in a vehicle. It’s not the same sound quality you talk about here. SQ finals was this last weekend in the U.S in Missouri. Lots of great vehicles from all over the U.S and a few from Mexico.
I have done both. Full SPL with usa amps and strokers and then full sound quality with focal and udimension amps. But this is going back 10 plus years now.
Yeah that's true, shame on people who think its supposed to sound like they are there at the demo lol, you will never get the same experience from a mic
Sound quality is more than clairity. It's more about accurately reproducing the original song without coloration or distortion. Hence choosing a sealed box it's more of a flat response than ported.
To reproduce the audio heard in the vehicle correctly, a microphone has to be made to take that pressure and reproduce the waveform. (Long throw) Similar to JP's steering wheel.. A passive bass reflex capable of the excursion of the flex without bottoming out the microphone coil or simply blowing it out.
I like SQL the best. A set of SQ speakers that are 75 to 150wrms per side and around 90ish dB efficiency, and 2 12-inch SQL subwoofers at 3k to 7k watts RMS in a 35hz ported enclosure with low group delay is my dream setup. I have 12 inch fi neo sub and it's getting 1500ish wrms from a 1300 watt Pheonix gold amp and it slaps despite having being in a less-than-optimal enclosure. If I did my system all over again and had the money, I'd get 2 Fi Neo 4.7 12s tuned at 35Hz or try a different brand of sub that both has great sound quality and gets pretty loud. I'd also do 3-way active fronts and 2-way passive rears, a high res DSP that gives me the ability to bypass the headunit with a digital audio player for maximum sound quality and do an AMP rack instead of screwing the amps to the backseat. I'd show it off at car stereo shows after the fact.
For my systems, I want my system to sound good first.... Well balanced....loudness is opinions.... what might be loud to me might not be loud to you.... I'm a SQL guy so I focus on sounding good and being loud.....
I had 2 zvx 12's on 2 sia 3500's and it was a ground pounder. Then I went to 2 xv3 12's on a wolfram 9k. Louder of course but the Sq is way better than the skars. I am very impressed with the xv3's. Perfect example skars got loud but sundown sounds alot cleaner and louder Just my experience. Thanks for all you guys do. D4s for life
Ya I agree. my first build was the skars. It was what I could afford at that time. They did very well. I have no complaints on the zvx's performance for the price. Then I bought my first sundown subs. I could tell the difference. I'm not a sundown fan boy or anything just letting people know about my experience. It might help them. Bass on everyone
@@sweetlips4704 Fs is simply the resonance of the parts in a free air environment, in all honesty it is pretty much a worthless parameter. It does not indicate the frequency response of a sub (lower Fs is not going to just "play lower" although it's apopular belief) and Higher Fs does not mean that a sub will " not play the lower notes". A speaker simply will do,, what you tell it to do, in the enclosure, that you put it in. Putting a High Fs driver, in a box tuned to 33Hz does not mean it is not going to play the frequency range from the Fs to tuning..and totally miss it. That is not how it works and is totally just a myth. It will do whatever you tell it to do, including shredding the soft parts and so forth, Simply because it does not know any better. While the Fs is good to know, and meesed sometimes as an input value, it really doesn't mean as much as Qts and Mms, just in my opinion though.
I use to say ppl stuff sounds like crap too until I’ve been to an actual competition! And found out for myself that a phone or camera can NEVER pick up that type of bass! 😅
@@theegreatest9322 I’m running a 12W7AE on a vx1000/1i in a ported enclosure built by Bill at AV Priority. He has really fantastic craftsmanship, I have a rd400/1 on my door speakers and rear deck speakers. I’m running C5-650s in my front doors and C2-650s In my rear deck. I have it all in a 2017 Civic Si. I have another 12W7AE but my electrical system sucks and don’t have the ability to run a h/o alternator. I traded a 2009 CTS due to a code for stretched timing chain but my CTS was pretty violent for just 2 12s. Had them on (2) two HD750s I still prefer good sound quality over SPL but I love bass just like the next person. Some may consider my civic to be more SPL than SQ but it’s really clear sound, I have my vx1000/1i set with TUN software so the bass sounds really good also, very minimal distortion even at higher volumes. I plan on doing maybe a new blazer strictly SPL, maybe 10,000-15,000 watts. It’s all money and we ain’t taking any with us when we pass so might as well have fun with it.
I'm looking for sound quality; actually my front speakers are eaten by my rear 500 w pioneer (the 500 W without any amp are good to me); ¿what can I do?
Ya man for me I am a lover of both smooth warm clean tone and heavy bass but also being able to hear it through out the frequency range so I want the most of both I use audio dynamics 4000 series 3ways and deaf bonce db4s and orion hcca splx amps and subs with tons of yinglong being able go power everything well
Some day i want a 4 way system with custom door panels, 3 mids and 3 tweets in each door, subs in a sealed box under the seat and low range mids, and then subs in a sealed box in the trunk. Just focus on sound quality to the max. Definitely no Pro Audio speakers lol
Can't stnd those people that judge people's(fill in the blank) this case stereos. Do you know what they hear or like? You might not like it but then walk the f×ck off. Keep it fun!!! We all live music and hanging out. Let's all have a BBQ get some dogs burgers and loud music.
Anyone in true sound quality competitions for base use what's called an infinite baffle oftentimes they don't even use a box they'll put them on their trunk lid and it breathes into the rear trunk if you ever come across real SQ dudes that's usually what they go for is an infinite baffle type enclosure
I do prefer SQ myself. I really like spl too. I had my system professionally built a few years ago. I don't know if it's the tuning or just the acoustics of my car, but mine has no mid-bass when I turn the sub off. Running Rockford 6.5" components, Rockford amps, alpine head unit, and a FI SP4 18 sub. Could it be just the car? Foxbody mustang hatchback.
I have Camry 2015 to be exact I have SQ system but now I kinda want to add another of my 12 because I want to add epicenter but. I have issue I just hate that all my sweet bass stays in the trunk what’s the best way to make bass flow into the cabin making hole in the rear deck , or cutting through the seat where the arm rest is ?
Ive got a question when using multiple subs is there any difference between putting two subs in a combined airspace and shared port vs them each having their own separate airspace and seprate ports. And for a combined airspace does having one big shared port or two small shared ports (thered be a port on each edge of the box) make any difference? Im curious to know what your thoughts are.
It won't really matter if they have "shared" box volume, or separate "chambers" but, you'll need to tune each "separate" chamber accordingly, but if it is "shared" then you will tune the net volume of the entire enclosure...with whatever frequency you decide. Remember to figure in bracing(if any) and wood thickness(including multiple baffles..ect) and you'll be fine.
@@Chuck_Sanders im fixin to build another box my current box i just poorly slapped together with screws i know xD ima build it proper this time around i had seprate chambers and one of them the side blew lose its the first box ive ever built. it sounded great though i was suprised considering i just threw it together within my subs specs of course. just trying to get ideas on how to make the next one. I have two kicker comp r 12s.
Quality always wins easily it's usable and sure something may be loud but is of no use to anyone ..unless you're listening to 20hz to 200hz only..but that's not music...
I want to make a comment on sq and spl the way it’s supposed to be described in my way . It’s supposed to be interpreted sq is the getting full spectrum balance . It’s a live like scene like if your sitting in front of the band that’s playing. In a sq set up. And in spl your just getting that crazy loud low bass that rips your head off .
Hey JP I had a question. What’s the best way to get that trapped bass from out of your trunk besides letting the seat down? Should I just say screw it and buy a hatchback or just cut the carpet?
Hatchback is better for bass. In my experience bass bounces off the glass and goes to the front. You could cut ports in the rear deck. Or take the factory speakers. I personally wouldn't cut to much. Of the rear deck. It does carry a lot of support.
@@kdoeone I appreciate your response and help with my problem. I’m going to try and make a port through the armrest and see if that helps. I don’t have much faith in my work tho because I’m a certified idiot 😅 but thanks again.
@@Datboydave777 I got faith in you that you can do it 😀 I’d just come up with a good plan and then work your plan. But yeah man you can certainly do it!!!
We did an SA 12" and it was very responsive, played well overall. Enclosure was tuned at 28hz, and played well down to around 24hz, before dropping off, and played up to 45hz very well. I hope that this helps. Every install sounds different, and sometimes it doesn't sound like you heard it in the same vehicle. We did sub up, port back for reference. Hope all goes well, with whatever you go with man.
I’m new to this sound thing I currently have 1 quantum Audio 3000 watt sub on a 1700 watt hiphonics Brutus how35th anniversary i am going this weekend to purchase the other along with zero gauge is wire I also have 2 kicker tweeters running off my 6x9 ‘s in the back..can you tell me what else I would need to bring quality sound to my Camry
Personally I think American Bass i.e. XR and NVX i.e. VCW make some great SQ/SPL subs. They cover both very well. Both are 1200+ watt subs used correctly, 2 XR-15s with take everything a cab45 will throw at it at 1 ohm. What there seeing I don't know I've never clamped it, but I find it hard to believe there not seeing 3k or more at times. I think D4S should carry American Bass to me in a sea of quality brands D4S carries AB is also a solid brand you should carry, I don't think they sell a "bad" sub but yet AB and VFL are excellent. There xfl is probably one of the best selling sub going, and the HD an x Maxx monster are total bad boys, id put them against anything in there price range and then some like Xv3 or the U even the Z.
As soon as I saw the name of this video I instantly clicked. I did it because I wanted to call me at that this is the reason people buy Skar audio. It's loud but it has a dead dud in most of their subwoofers regardless of box even the Box that was made specifically for two evl 12s I bought off of a friend that were supposed to hold like $2,500 watts each or something sounded like pure crap and my two Memphis PR 15s that only held 350 W RMS each was as loud. I talked to a guy the other day and he agreed with me that builds such as skar audio do not have the sound quality that Memphis or JL Audio comes with and he said I was absolutely correct but he liked how loud his Subs were and that's What mattered to him. The sad part is people just want to see how loud can I get what DB am I at crap like that they forget about quality and no offense to JP but that's part of the reason why people buy sundown because they're loud but I've heard a lot of installers around here say that that's all they are is loud and that they were basically made for competitions but I don't know I've never owned them and I've never had a reason or desire to so I'll just stick with loud and quality add more affordable price so I'll just stick with Memphis
I'm going to tell you that Memphis speakers and amps are no slouch now. I had a couple Memphis amps. I have Memphis coaxials in my car now. Now the average person can't afford jl audio. I know what comes in at a close second....😂
Yeah for real people underestimating Memphis and laugh when you say anything about them but Memphis and JL are good for music and they're good for competitions LOL I had a solid Memphis amp I wish I would have never sold that sucker was a beast I have a small one that's a 500 w at 2 ohms but it ain't enough to push my 2 15s
Hey JP great video big fan 💪🏽❤️ please do a tour in Samoa we also do car shows but I always think of you to come and be the judge 😅 god bless you brother and your talent and goals
*I'm looking for an entry level subwoofer setup under $700 for the whole package of wiring and amp and box and subs I'm specifically looking for sound quality I want clean sounding bass that compliments the music while also being decently loud enough to exceed my expectations so far I've listened to a couple of sub systems in friends car 1) kicker comp R 12's they're really really loud on the outside I could it hear it from blocks away and they make street signs shake they definitely had a good sound quality and hit the lows quite nice but it lacked on loudness inside the cabin it was alright then I also heard another friends skar audio SDR 12s it was more quieter from the outside it wasn't anywhere near as loud as the kickers were it sounded like a single sub inside the trunk but holy crap it was a lot louder inside the cabin the bass was very heavy and loud it was more punchier and deep you could actually feel the bass thumping in your chest and it rattled the rear view mirror like crazy but it actually lacked in sound quality it wasn't that great it was just really loud it almost made every single song sound distorted like boost basted and keep in mind that their amps and all were tuned I like the overall loudness but not the sound quality I want the sound quality of the kicker but with the loudness of the Skar audio*
I'm working on my 99Towncar I'm trying to get the best of both worlds Sq and spl? A car is the hardest vehicle to make music sound good in? You just can't throw 2 4 or 6 speakers in the trunk and hope you have good results? It takes time I been working on my system for over two years now I started with 2 12s now I'm up to two 15s and its a big difference I have enough bass now I need to get my mids and highs on point?
Its got to be 2 feet over your head, 2 feet wider than the car, bass from the front image, and nothing but a clear picture of sound... Which gets loud enough to hear it over the highway with your windows open.
All of those people out there that judge your system based off of what they hear from their phones or tv's are obvious noobs and therefore their "opinions" should matter minimally or not at all
I don't really care what stupid people think and there's a lot of them in all comment sections. The sad part is people argue with unknown strangers with low iq's and then vote accordingly. That's why the world is falling apart.
Anyone can make a system loud, but it's how good it sounds when it's loud is where it counts for me
When I first got into car audio back in the late 80's I was a loud bass head. Then I met an old guy at a local sound off. I learned so much from him. He told me a good sounding system should sound great at low volume as well at max volume. The bass, mids and highs should sound the same....only louder.
At a certain loudness it's hard to tell quality imo so I see how it hits the lows
@ankevious oliver yep, low lows for me not the mid or high low lows
There is SQL which is a hybrid of SPL and SQ. The JL 13W7 is the loudest sub that is considered a pure SQ sub. Fi, Savard, and a few others make pretty solid SQL subwoofers. I like 144 to 148dB of sub and 107 to 110 dB of mids and highs the best. Around 100w 90dB efficient sound quality speakers, and 2 12s at 3k to 7k wrms in a ported enclosure would best suit my tastes.
Yup. Unless you're competing, 1000watts for bass is pretty much the threshold before you start drowning everything else out and your "audio system" becomes a bass system.
If thats your thimg, sure, build ya bass, buddy.
However, if you want louder bass to ENJOY MUSIC, find the best SQL sub between 1000-1500watts and run it.
It's not how loud you play it, it's how well it plays loud
You can tell you're an OG of the bass game... we old dudes been sayin this for years.
Man this right here is what we all wanted to hear. Some of us do what we can but we dream of those nasty 6th order windy builds. Being a cancer patient I lost all of my small equipment back in 2019 I went from my small set up to no bass for a while. Then I threw in a home subwoofer with a kicker 300.1 amp 😅. Then the bug hit and little by little I started working on my builds Wolfram audio was a huge stepping stone for me to get out of the hole of depression and get my relationship with my kids back to par. God is good and we are still slowly building to get to that goal. My build is puny compared to most builds but the sentimental value it holds for my kids and I is beyond explainable.
Just keep moving forward guy
❤
🙏🏾🙏🏾
Thank you soo much guys! God bless you all.
👍💪
Been waitin on u to answer this question, I neva clicked so fast lmao
I love a balance of loud and quality, but when it comes to home audio all I want is that quality 😂
My home system is just loud af lol recently got nad 925thx running my towers the clarity that I needed. 😅
I wanna hear every beat on the instrumental
I prefer the middle ground. Sound as good as possible but with the ability to pound with bandwidth in my daily. But would want a slamming low banger for a demo/ project ride.
Me personally I like both or SQL. I want it to sound amazing and get loud when I want it to. Now it doesn't have to be SQ competition good with $5000 components sets, but like 2 or 3 pairs of a good decent $100-350 set of speakers with dedicated amps and crossovers so its nice and crispy, and some 12 or 15 inch subs. I dont need it to be four 18's on a 20k loud, but I like the option to turn up the bass when I want. Too much bass and the option to turn it down is better than having the bass knob turned all the way up and still not enough. When it's not enough bass your gonna keep turning the volume up sending a clipped signal (distortion) to you subs until they go up in smoke.
Which brand has cleaner and softer thumping bass? DD Audio, CT Sounds or JL Audio?
From those 3 jl audio . It’s also all on the box and amp ..
back in the day when i use to compete my friends would use to compliment me on how crisp on how my sound quality was and asked me how i got it to sound so good. i hated if my sound would distort or sounded badly it would drive me insane. even if it rattled to much outside it got to me lol.
I personally think that sound deadner should be put in all vehicles with systems cause I don’t even like hearing other peoples cars rattling much less my own. It’s affordable and can definitely be done in stages but I agree if my car rattles it drives me a bit crazy. Some of it just can’t be prevented but for the most part you can control the biggest part of it
Same, it’s a whole entire spectrum. There is a whole other level in SQL competition that is not touched on here in regards to proper staging, pin point time alignment, sound floor reduction, realistic recording reproduction and the Installation Quality component compared to a straight up basic tuned loud and clear systems. The Goal in SQL is to build and tuned to a point “you could here a mosquito fart” (slight exaggeration). … A true SQL system is really challenging to achieve. A perfect SQL system would have a driver and amps specifically designed and purpose built for each frequency on its own channels, but that would be a step from impossible. In either SQL and SPL the major trade offs including Space, Budget and Quality still apply. The EU and Asian market has a way deeper scene for SQ (IMO) … it’s great to see the diversity in car audio overall. The big question is where does SPL go (without relying on plug-in generators) when power sources change in 15-20 years as gov regulations change?
The last part you said man that’s what I always think when I worked in Tesla factory. And until this day I believe we are also living in the best era of car audio. Big beefy amps and subs because next 15 years we might not be able to run those babies like now :/. Same reason why I kinda pushing my self to install all my gear to my car. I have old school soundstream equipment but now I want to go full install because I don’t know if future I going to be able to play with them like now.
@@juliobello4561 you can do it but it’s how long. You can see posts a few weeks back where JP featured a nice Tesla with a banging system, but it was on a a generator it looked like.
i ordered another JP8 so I can strap 2 of them together. I still wasn't getting the strapping part and I called down4sound and they helped me out big time took me step by step and were not annoyed that I asked so may questions, I know they wanted me to get it right, thanks
That's awesome! I was thinking about doing the same... that little amp is a beast.
I don't really like strapping two amplifiers together more current being drawn because they are still one ohm stable bridge two 2ohms I have 2 jp23 amplifiers and they are not strong enough for 2 fi 15s hc I have a 8k taramps 2ohms and it's beating them up I ordered a bass 8k taramps and I'm going to run it .5ohms the impedance rise should bring it up between. 8 and 1.3 at the highest
@@ceciljones1248 I was told about 6 years ago, by 2 different amp repair guys, that strapping amplifiers were hell, on the input side. My tow Crescendo 3500's both failed that way...and one was sent to one repair guy, and the other 2 another repair guy, and both said the same. Idk if its all true, but what they said. I went with one amp per sub after that, and was more efficient use of power, and the amps were alot cooler overall.
@@Chuck_Sanders It seems like you lose power when you strap them together ?You are correct it's better to run them separately I really don't like Korean amplifiers anymore I been having good luck with taramps
MIDS AND HIGHS ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FIRST BASS IS LAST PERIOD
Im satisfied with the setup i have in my daily, 4 skar evl 6.5s upgraded all stock coaxials with skar coaxials, kicker zx750.1 sub side and kicker zx350.4 on the coaxials
I remember back in the late 90’s we built sealed walls for spl. And I family built a potted box this early first system I’ve had in over 20yrs and boy two 12’s in a ported box belies the sealed box I had them in out of the water on the lows. And back then in the 90’s 5k amp on two 12’s was not something you saw ever.
My personal experience with this is that you have to have balance; you have to have clean bass and loudness...if you can be heard and can still hear the words crisply you're good. You said the exact words- build a system to your liking because you have to be happy with your finished product.
Which brand has cleaner and softer thumping bass? DD Audio, CT Sounds or JL Audio?
@markfrederick5012 Me personally I haven't heard much of CT sounds but I've heard DD and JL; I'm going to be honest.. soft bass is one of those things that can be achieved by Dynomat but JL makes high quality products but you're going to pay for it. I have a friend that has a SUV with DD amps and subs and it flexes the walls and roof when it hits. I have a Cobalt with a SKAR 8 enclosure kit that sounds great and no rattle that's all I need for it.
@@rodneygrant7726 so which brand sounds cleaner and which brand sounds softer? DD or JL?
@@markfrederick5012 I'd try JL if you're looking for a package deal. I would say it's softer than DD.
I Tell guys all the time on my channel videos does car audio no JUSTICE. Especially like you said on bigger systems or systems that achieve a certain DB level.
When someone says SQ to me I think of UA-camr Pssound. Go watch a few of his build videos. Some might get into the 140db range. Its more about imaging, depth, and reproducing sound exactly how it was recorded. Very difficult to do in a vehicle. It’s not the same sound quality you talk about here. SQ finals was this last weekend in the U.S in Missouri. Lots of great vehicles from all over the U.S and a few from Mexico.
Great tutorial JP I enjoy watching all your videos broham 💯💯💯
I have done both. Full SPL with usa amps and strokers and then full sound quality with focal and udimension amps. But this is going back 10 plus years now.
Yeah that's true, shame on people who think its supposed to sound like they are there at the demo lol, you will never get the same experience from a mic
Sound quality is more than clairity. It's more about accurately reproducing the original song without coloration or distortion. Hence choosing a sealed box it's more of a flat response than ported.
To reproduce the audio heard in the vehicle correctly, a microphone has to be made to take that pressure and reproduce the waveform. (Long throw)
Similar to JP's steering wheel.. A passive bass reflex capable of the excursion of the flex without bottoming out the microphone coil or simply blowing it out.
Exactly. There are several "high SPL" microphones that will deliver clean recorded audio in 160+ dB environments.
@@PURESOUND4 oh that makes me happy. Someone actually did it!
JP bro!! You'd be proud or me bro! I've officially started building my system ! Going use your amps from a shop here in Canada!!!
I like SQL the best. A set of SQ speakers that are 75 to 150wrms per side and around 90ish dB efficiency, and 2 12-inch SQL subwoofers at 3k to 7k watts RMS in a 35hz ported enclosure with low group delay is my dream setup. I have 12 inch fi neo sub and it's getting 1500ish wrms from a 1300 watt Pheonix gold amp and it slaps despite having being in a less-than-optimal enclosure. If I did my system all over again and had the money, I'd get 2 Fi Neo 4.7 12s tuned at 35Hz or try a different brand of sub that both has great sound quality and gets pretty loud. I'd also do 3-way active fronts and 2-way passive rears, a high res DSP that gives me the ability to bypass the headunit with a digital audio player for maximum sound quality and do an AMP rack instead of screwing the amps to the backseat. I'd show it off at car stereo shows after the fact.
This was extremely helpful. Really appreciate you sharing your expertise with us!
For my systems, I want my system to sound good first.... Well balanced....loudness is opinions.... what might be loud to me might not be loud to you.... I'm a SQL guy so I focus on sounding good and being loud.....
I finally ordered the mids and high range dome tweeters..im excited to get them.
Lookin swole JP. KEEP IT UP
Thank you!
Which brand has cleaner and softer thumping bass? DD Audio, CT Sounds or JL Audio?
You talk about ported and sealed and forth order and 6 order. What’s the Tahoe have. Is it sealed or ported or ? Thanks.
What is the name of the bass that causes an earthquake?
I had 2 zvx 12's on 2 sia 3500's and it was a ground pounder. Then I went to 2 xv3 12's on a wolfram 9k. Louder of course but the Sq is way better than the skars. I am very impressed with the xv3's. Perfect example skars got loud but sundown sounds alot cleaner and louder Just my experience. Thanks for all you guys do. D4s for life
the zvx 15v2 plays loud and clean. Also dont forget the fs on the zvx 12 is a bit high and sundown usually very low u need to know what you are buying
Ya I agree. my first build was the skars. It was what I could afford at that time. They did very well. I have no complaints on the zvx's performance for the price. Then I bought my first sundown subs. I could tell the difference. I'm not a sundown fan boy or anything just letting people know about my experience. It might help them. Bass on everyone
@@sweetlips4704 Fs is simply the resonance of the parts in a free air environment, in all honesty it is pretty much a worthless parameter.
It does not indicate the frequency response of a sub (lower Fs is not going to just "play lower" although it's apopular belief) and Higher Fs does not mean that a sub will " not play the lower notes". A speaker simply will do,, what you tell it to do, in the enclosure, that you put it in. Putting a High Fs driver, in a box tuned to 33Hz does not mean it is not going to play the frequency range from the Fs to tuning..and totally miss it. That is not how it works and is totally just a myth. It will do whatever you tell it to do, including shredding the soft parts and so forth, Simply because it does not know any better. While the Fs is good to know, and meesed sometimes as an input value, it really doesn't mean as much as Qts and Mms, just in my opinion though.
I got two u15s on a SFB-5000D and they are real nice
I use to say ppl stuff sounds like crap too until I’ve been to an actual competition! And found out for myself that a phone or camera can NEVER pick up that type of bass! 😅
What do they call them? I've been looking for some in my area
What’s a good tune for SQ?
I like tons of bass but I definitely prefer SQ over SPL. I’d love to build a vehicle strictly for SPL but my daily id go SQ any day.
What’s ur setup , did u go with a sealed enclosure?
@@theegreatest9322 I’m running a 12W7AE on a vx1000/1i in a ported enclosure built by Bill at AV Priority. He has really fantastic craftsmanship, I have a rd400/1 on my door speakers and rear deck speakers. I’m running C5-650s in my front doors and C2-650s In my rear deck. I have it all in a 2017 Civic Si. I have another 12W7AE but my electrical system sucks and don’t have the ability to run a h/o alternator. I traded a 2009 CTS due to a code for stretched timing chain but my CTS was pretty violent for just 2 12s. Had them on (2) two HD750s I still prefer good sound quality over SPL but I love bass just like the next person.
Some may consider my civic to be more SPL than SQ but it’s really clear sound, I have my vx1000/1i set with TUN software so the bass sounds really good also, very minimal distortion even at higher volumes. I plan on doing maybe a new blazer strictly SPL, maybe 10,000-15,000 watts. It’s all money and we ain’t taking any with us when we pass so might as well have fun with it.
I'm looking for sound quality; actually my front speakers are eaten by my rear 500 w pioneer (the 500 W without any amp are good to me); ¿what can I do?
Ya man for me I am a lover of both smooth warm clean tone and heavy bass but also being able to hear it through out the frequency range so I want the most of both I use audio dynamics 4000 series 3ways and deaf bonce db4s and orion hcca splx amps and subs with tons of yinglong being able go power everything well
Qualified opinion desired...if my power is crispy clean, do you think running twice rms power to my subs would be too much to ask for?
I have always wanted a system like yours JP
Hey jp when will you get some more pro-fab boxes in stock for 10’s?
Some day i want a 4 way system with custom door panels, 3 mids and 3 tweets in each door, subs in a sealed box under the seat and low range mids, and then subs in a sealed box in the trunk. Just focus on sound quality to the max. Definitely no Pro Audio speakers lol
Can't stnd those people that judge people's(fill in the blank) this case stereos. Do you know what they hear or like? You might not like it but then walk the f×ck off. Keep it fun!!! We all live music and hanging out. Let's all have a BBQ get some dogs burgers and loud music.
I like a good mixture of both
Hey Jp. Quick question. Would a zv6 12 recone kit fit in a zv5 12 basket?
Answer: Yes.
Its all about speakers sounding full with the correct gain then u can have both
Anyone in true sound quality competitions for base use what's called an infinite baffle oftentimes they don't even use a box they'll put them on their trunk lid and it breathes into the rear trunk if you ever come across real SQ dudes that's usually what they go for is an infinite baffle type enclosure
I like sound quality more over loudness. Anyone can have a loud system but sound quality is better.
Best 12” sub to run off of a JP23?
I do prefer SQ myself. I really like spl too. I had my system professionally built a few years ago. I don't know if it's the tuning or just the acoustics of my car, but mine has no mid-bass when I turn the sub off. Running Rockford 6.5" components, Rockford amps, alpine head unit, and a FI SP4 18 sub. Could it be just the car? Foxbody mustang hatchback.
Thanks for the advice and your right don't do it for others do it for your self where all bass heads and any bass is good bass
I recommend to call them they are very nice and very helpful🙏🏽
Sound quality for me.
Great video JP
I have Camry 2015 to be exact I have SQ system but now I kinda want to add another of my 12 because I want to add epicenter but. I have issue I just hate that all my sweet bass stays in the trunk what’s the best way to make bass flow into the cabin making hole in the rear deck , or cutting through the seat where the arm rest is ?
Ive got a question when using multiple subs is there any difference between putting two subs in a combined airspace and shared port vs them each having their own separate airspace and seprate ports. And for a combined airspace does having one big shared port or two small shared ports (thered be a port on each edge of the box) make any difference? Im curious to know what your thoughts are.
I use one big port for two subwoofers as long as they are on the same amplifier it's not a problem
It won't really matter if they have "shared" box volume, or separate "chambers" but, you'll need to tune each "separate" chamber accordingly, but if it is "shared" then you will tune the net volume of the entire enclosure...with whatever frequency you decide. Remember to figure in bracing(if any) and wood thickness(including multiple baffles..ect) and you'll be fine.
@@Chuck_Sanders i appreciate the response thank you.
@@MR_POPSICLES you're very welcome, and I hope you do well, with whatever build you do!
@@Chuck_Sanders im fixin to build another box my current box i just poorly slapped together with screws i know xD ima build it proper this time around i had seprate chambers and one of them the side blew lose its the first box ive ever built. it sounded great though i was suprised considering i just threw it together within my subs specs of course. just trying to get ideas on how to make the next one. I have two kicker comp r 12s.
Thank you for sharing this information.Maryland showing a little ❤
Great vid also great advice..build to what u like 💯💯
That's why I like the American Bass XR over the xfl
Quality always wins easily it's usable and sure something may be loud but is of no use to anyone ..unless you're listening to 20hz to 200hz only..but that's not music...
I want to make a comment on sq and spl the way it’s supposed to be described in my way . It’s supposed to be interpreted sq is the getting full spectrum balance . It’s a live like scene like if your sitting in front of the band that’s playing. In a sq set up. And in spl your just getting that crazy loud low bass that rips your head off .
Hey JP I had a question. What’s the best way to get that trapped bass from out of your trunk besides letting the seat down? Should I just say screw it and buy a hatchback or just cut the carpet?
Hatchback is better for bass.
In my experience bass bounces off the glass and goes to the front.
You could cut ports in the rear deck.
Or take the factory speakers.
I personally wouldn't cut to much. Of the rear deck. It does carry a lot of support.
@@kdoeone I appreciate your response and help with my problem. I’m going to try and make a port through the armrest and see if that helps. I don’t have much faith in my work tho because I’m a certified idiot 😅 but thanks again.
@@Datboydave777 I got faith in you that you can do it 😀 I’d just come up with a good plan and then work your plan. But yeah man you can certainly do it!!!
Do you know Kevin Morrow?
Very good reference on speaker box setups, what would you recommend for one single sundown 12 on a 08 Scion xB rear installation
We did an SA 12" and it was very responsive, played well overall. Enclosure was tuned at 28hz, and played well down to around 24hz, before dropping off, and played up to 45hz very well. I hope that this helps. Every install sounds different, and sometimes it doesn't sound like you heard it in the same vehicle. We did sub up, port back for reference. Hope all goes well, with whatever you go with man.
I love sound quality and loud at the same time 🤣🤣
How much voltage and amps takes your sound car on loud volume 😅
I’m new to this sound thing I currently have 1 quantum Audio 3000 watt sub on a 1700 watt hiphonics Brutus how35th anniversary i am going this weekend to purchase the other along with zero gauge is wire I also have 2 kicker tweeters running off my 6x9 ‘s in the back..can you tell me what else I would need to bring quality sound to my Camry
That 3,000 watts is really only about 1,000 watts of real power ... 99% of amplifiers or speakers don't make rated power or take rated power !!!
Bravo wise words of wisdom knowledge and truth spoken from a very wise man who knows what's going on in bass 🔊
Personally I think American Bass i.e. XR and NVX i.e. VCW make some great SQ/SPL subs. They cover both very well. Both are 1200+ watt subs used correctly, 2 XR-15s with take everything a cab45 will throw at it at 1 ohm. What there seeing I don't know I've never clamped it, but I find it hard to believe there not seeing 3k or more at times. I think D4S should carry American Bass to me in a sea of quality brands D4S carries AB is also a solid brand you should carry, I don't think they sell a "bad" sub but yet AB and VFL are excellent. There xfl is probably one of the best selling sub going, and the HD an x Maxx monster are total bad boys, id put them against anything in there price range and then some like Xv3 or the U even the Z.
Which brand has cleaner and softer thumping bass? DD Audio, CT Sounds or JL Audio?
My soul wants perfect clarity and a little extra punch. My wallet can afford food and shelter. I can still afford to dream, so life is good. Lol
Please Make An Amp Like The old school Earthquake of San Francisco UHC S.F. PA-2020 UHC
Well said respect 💯
This is awesome 😎 I like the experience lesson
As soon as I saw the name of this video I instantly clicked. I did it because I wanted to call me at that this is the reason people buy Skar audio. It's loud but it has a dead dud in most of their subwoofers regardless of box even the Box that was made specifically for two evl 12s I bought off of a friend that were supposed to hold like $2,500 watts each or something sounded like pure crap and my two Memphis PR 15s that only held 350 W RMS each was as loud. I talked to a guy the other day and he agreed with me that builds such as skar audio do not have the sound quality that Memphis or JL Audio comes with and he said I was absolutely correct but he liked how loud his Subs were and that's What mattered to him. The sad part is people just want to see how loud can I get what DB am I at crap like that they forget about quality and no offense to JP but that's part of the reason why people buy sundown because they're loud but I've heard a lot of installers around here say that that's all they are is loud and that they were basically made for competitions but I don't know I've never owned them and I've never had a reason or desire to so I'll just stick with loud and quality add more affordable price so I'll just stick with Memphis
I'm going to tell you that Memphis speakers and amps are no slouch now. I had a couple Memphis amps. I have Memphis coaxials in my car now. Now the average person can't afford jl audio. I know what comes in at a close second....😂
Memphis.
Yeah for real people underestimating Memphis and laugh when you say anything about them but Memphis and JL are good for music and they're good for competitions LOL I had a solid Memphis amp I wish I would have never sold that sucker was a beast I have a small one that's a 500 w at 2 ohms but it ain't enough to push my 2 15s
@@MemphisMojo15s I still got the 500.1 and it's not going anywhere. If anybody asks me about it they can kiss where the sun doesn't shine.
Hey JP great video big fan 💪🏽❤️ please do a tour in Samoa we also do car shows but I always think of you to come and be the judge 😅 god bless you brother and your talent and goals
Try This Bass Mic The Avantone Pro Kick Dynamic Kick Drum Microphone
I agree 100% with you
Yes build to what you like
*I'm looking for an entry level subwoofer setup under $700 for the whole package of wiring and amp and box and subs I'm specifically looking for sound quality I want clean sounding bass that compliments the music while also being decently loud enough to exceed my expectations so far I've listened to a couple of sub systems in friends car 1) kicker comp R 12's they're really really loud on the outside I could it hear it from blocks away and they make street signs shake they definitely had a good sound quality and hit the lows quite nice but it lacked on loudness inside the cabin it was alright then I also heard another friends skar audio SDR 12s it was more quieter from the outside it wasn't anywhere near as loud as the kickers were it sounded like a single sub inside the trunk but holy crap it was a lot louder inside the cabin the bass was very heavy and loud it was more punchier and deep you could actually feel the bass thumping in your chest and it rattled the rear view mirror like crazy but it actually lacked in sound quality it wasn't that great it was just really loud it almost made every single song sound distorted like boost basted and keep in mind that their amps and all were tuned I like the overall loudness but not the sound quality I want the sound quality of the kicker but with the loudness of the Skar audio*
I think its so dumb when people have no mids and highs. Its 75 percent of the song and they dont even care about it. Makes no sense to me
I want my next build to be sound quality over loudness but I’m still pissed at d4s sending me a bad 500 dollar woofer
I know right!..
I'm working on my 99Towncar I'm trying to get the best of both worlds Sq and spl? A car is the hardest vehicle to make music sound good in? You just can't throw 2 4 or 6 speakers in the trunk and hope you have good results? It takes time I been working on my system for over two years now I started with 2 12s now I'm up to two 15s and its a big difference I have enough bass now I need to get my mids and highs on point?
Great subject 👌
May sound good for speaker but on phone its bad phone db different
Rc right away
I’m dropping 1300 on my mids setup and that’s the cheap a to b car model for me 😂
There's a third option, balanced sound...
😂😂 some folks just don't learn from their own rules and mistakes 😂😂
I want quality sound that sounds loud
Quality sound or blasting LOUD!!???🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Orrrr both 👀
Loud and clear for a bass head is different for a sq person. Sound is subjective. Just be happy with you have and can afford
Which brand has cleaner and softer thumping bass? DD Audio, CT Sounds or JL Audio?
@@markfrederick5012 lmao my 9500s walk laps around 4.5 neos from FI. My w7 sounds better than anything I’ve ever owned.
@@SaltwaterBoogeyman does JL Audio thumps soft like sony xplod?
It sound like crap over the phone because irl your ears don’t have a fail safe 😂
My system has both, it took alot of time and money 💰
Which brand has cleaner and softer thumping bass? DD Audio, CT Sounds or JL Audio?
@markfrederick5012 jl is pretty clean. The others are mainly bass heavy, my opinion
@@delvinchandler does JL Audio thumps soft like sony xplod? Or it only sounds like JBL?
@markfrederick5012 way better than both
@@delvinchandler if JL Audio has soft sound, then why is it only for sound quality and not for sound pressure level? 🤔
Its got to be 2 feet over your head, 2 feet wider than the car, bass from the front image, and nothing but a clear picture of sound... Which gets loud enough to hear it over the highway with your windows open.
I go SQ loud. If you can't make it clean you shouldn't make it mean.
Well said
As long as I can still understand the words I'm straight.
Jerry ain't loud has got his shit right.
All of those people out there that judge your system based off of what they hear from their phones or tv's are obvious noobs and therefore their "opinions" should matter minimally or not at all
I don't really care what stupid people think and there's a lot of them in all comment sections. The sad part is people argue with unknown strangers with low iq's and then vote accordingly. That's why the world is falling apart.