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DIY Solar Air Heater! - The Steel Slat “Drip-Edge” Solar Heater! - New Design! 160F 74C in January!
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- Опубліковано 12 січ 2019
- This video shows a new design for the making a DIY Solar Air Heater. This one is made with 7 lengths of 2x2 Steel “Drip Edge” Roof Flashing. Each of the 7 slats are dual-faceted and each create their own air channel. This gives a total of 7 closed air channels (and 6 open ones). The basics: the sun enters the unit thru the glass and strikes the 14 individual facets or faces of the absorbent black steel flashing. The metal is then quickly heated, and in turn, this heats the air inside the unit. the hot air is drawn out by using a small solar powered 12vdc case fan (located at the top). Note that the units’ fan is only activated in the presence of sunlight so it automatically shuts off when no heating is occurring. by using the 13 individual air inlets the air enters ‘equally distributed’ and is evenly heated as it passes over and under the hot steel slats. air temps were in the low 40’s (F) during testing. Output air temps varied but reached into the 160F+ range (topping out at 167.5 F (74C+) about noon time). Lowest temp recorded was 110F (with sun just over horizon) and air temps of 135F were standard for mid-morning and late afternoon. Collector works great! One of the best. a note regarding insulation; i’ve made several different types of solar air heaters over the years and have come to the conclusion that insulating the unit is not necessary - as it does very little to increase the output temps. (that’s probably due to the fact that the air is only in the unit for a minute or two before it is vented out). Insulation is more important for something like a solar oven where you want the air to stay in there for hours and hours. If you still want to insulate, consider the back as the main area to focus on - since that is where the greatest surface area is (and therefore where the majority of the heat loss occurs). Video breakdown… 1st minute is intro w/temps. 1 min to 7 min mark is the build, then it ends with more temp readings and a final stats page. If you like the video please rate sub and share!
![DIY Solar Air Heater | Step-by-Step Building Guide [Part 1]](/img/n.gif)
I built a heater very similar to this one about 20 years ago. It had the air recirculated with simple internal ducting with ports top and bottom. The assembly fit over a double hung window and I could regulate the output by simply opening and closing the windows. This simple solar heater provided more heat than the South side of my home could ever need. No fan, no electricity, just the sun. I frequently had to close the windows because it was too warm. Total cost to build was about fifty dollars.
See people ??? This is what I'm talking about !! Build your own !! They totally work and aint rocket science. You cant screw up. They wont blow up. Hahaha. Good comment guy.
So you don't necessarily need the fan? Could it be done on a flat surface like a flat roof? Or does the air need to rise?
@@ESLinsider hot air goes up, so if you design a low air intake to a solar heater, and have the exhaust air high up, then you'll get a natural flow.
@@HyperSculptor How can we get this information to the European people for this winter? Because of Russia cutting off gas supply I am very worried about the average person who struggles to pay utility bills.
@@worldpeace8187 here we are💪
Your project is much more efficient than some of the others due to the gap at the fan end, this allows all channels to contribute to heating, however maybe if you joined two or three channels in series the amount of heat could be increased as the heated air will be in the channels a little longer. Great job and more than efficient for a home. Well done.
It's reasons like this that I love UA-cam. At 6:31 in the morning I decided I'm going to research what I'm building next. Better then a college class haha
sweet! that's great to hear. that's why i do the channel (to help, inspire, teach and share).
I have several similar units I've used for heating my shop. It supplements nicely. A couple things to note.. Don't use inside air. Using outside air, and a bigger fan does reduce the output temperature, but creates a positive pressure inside the house. Which is what you want . Second is, don't ever cover windows. Defeats the purpose . Make a simple wood cover and place over the glass during the summer. Realize that anything wood, especially regular cut 2x4s will warp and let a little dust and water in ...and heat out. So focus on a weather proof material. Stain the outside, marine plywood is by far the best option. Regular wood is okay, just realize it's a 2-3 year life span. The wood will fail first. Tempered glass is good, use a patio door or just 1 layer if you have it. Go cheaper and do more surface area. Units get so hot they'll cook a lot of other materials. I use a temp controller with a probe inside the unit. Kicks on around 88 degrees and pretty much runs all day 500 cfm at 114 degrees... using outside air which averages 20-30 f. ( I'm in northern Utah). It runs when its 0 degrees on sunny days, no problem. Get a good baffle that closes when the sun goes down. Basically bigger, cheap and dirty is the best option inmy opinion. If you try to create the most efficient unit, but it costs too much, is too small or gets too hot and cooks off, you're not going to see a return on investment, which takes a year or two.
I'm going to get this guy some new drill bits for Christmas. ;)
hi there lol. thanks i need them.
In sweden we have some screws for that..😃
And an impact driver...
Ahhhhhh, come on, some people do not understand the principle of a drill bit. He surely is passing on some good ideas !🤔
Very nice compact design. Your demo of the building steps is excellent. I have some extra corrugated roofing and a few pine boards I’m going to use along with an old window my friend removed from his house. Mine won’t be as nice-looking as yours, but it’ll pump out free heat to my art studio in the barn. I also like the way you installed the fan and it seems like a cheap investment to add one with a small solar panel. Convection alone will push the heat out, as I learned from a buddy science teacher who made one with his students. They had to disconnect it every day because the classroom got too hot! But I think a fan is probably a worthwhile add-on. Thanks, great job!
If you paint the inside (not just sun facing side) with a high emissivity paint (generally any paint is better than bare metal) you'll increase efficiency a tiny bit. I know it seems like the paint that's in the dark shouldn't matter, but it does! It's not dark in infrared
(also, smoother the hose the faster the airflow, less chance to lose heat -- though insulated it doesn't matter much)
black rust primer paint?
Genius! I have 6' X 4'6" tempered glass and am going to build. Thanks for the very detailed video!
thanks and you're welcome 🙂
I reckon this is just about the BEST channel on you-tube.
Thank you sir for bringing us your useful videos - God bless you.
Nicely done. Beats my beer /soda can one that I made about 10 years ago. Less complicated. Thank you
We were building these at Mother Earth R&D in the late 60s and early 70s. Didn't have the solar voltaic panels yet. Depended on convection for flow. There was a company in Oklahoma in the late 1800s building them and installing on homes. That's where we got our ideas fir them. Helps to have a house 3' or 4' off the ground to lean collectors under windows for installations for the passive design.
I built up to the box and have the rest. Was about to put in the soda cans and paint. Taking a big right turn to these rails at Home "Despot". Kudos.
I made some with metal 2x3 downspout. built my boxes 4x8ft, lined them with 1/2 foam insulation board, left refelective side facing inward. I painted the downspout flat black before putting inside and and sealing plexi glass, and got 250+F. All my testing, I found the longer span you can run the air before leaving the box, the hotter it will get.
Dell Moore, True longer the better. Bigger the better more surface area. 250F wow nice unit you built there man! My 6x6 foot unit with downspouts puts out 195 F (90C) of heat when sunny when below freezing outside.
That's exactly the kind of info I've been looking for!
Do you have a picture or more information on your build somewhere?
Would you recommend using plexiglass instead?
Now there's an experiment. Make a completely closed hot box, no in and out, just to see the maximum temperature that could build up inside it. Your temperature was above boiling point of water, which however would worry me about someone getting burned by such hot air exiting it.
I used your design and got 174 degrees out of it. I had the air inlet and exit at the top. The air came in and went underneath the part with the drip edge collectors then at the bottom it flipped up to the collectors. The collectors was separated from the bottom cooler air with one half inch foam sheeting. From there it rose to the top and out. I got 75 degrees going in and 174 coming out. I couldn't believe it. I put in a fan but it will work fine without one. The rising heat will pull in the cooler air. I am going to install one on the south end of my house through an open window. The one I made is about the same size as yours. The one I will install will be almost double that. Thanks for the idea.
so, any update?
I want to see yours.
You are amazing!!! I like your other solar heater also, but this is going to be great in our RV. Anything solar is number one with me for RVing, and it is easy to store.
Keep up the creative flow👍🏾👍🏻👍🏼😊
Not dissing your idea by any means Brother.. Great build!
You want to really bump up the efficiency, duct your inside room air into the bottom of the panel.
I had 2 section window units I built that mounted at an angle to the sun into a raised window in my trailer and it thermo-siphoned the inside room air down the back section of the panel and up from bottom thru a slot into front panel section just covered with black plastic and carpet sponge behind it for insulation so back section incoming air wouldn't heat up and colder intake air would drop faster to bottom and was getting continuous 120-130F at a lower CFM of course, back into the room using no power with no fan.
If cloud blocked the sun or at night it would just air lock and stop siphoning until surface was heated up again. With 3, 6 foot long, 6" thick double section panels the width of windows only opened 7" for panel front plate to lock into window channel, then window closed down on plate. It kept the rooms comfortable so I was happy.
The next year I added 2 small muffin fans like yours to the room fed intake bottom section (on the theory that it's easier to push colder denser air vs suck hot thinner air and less heat on fan motors and plastic blades) but if sun was shaded it blew same temp as inside air with only a few degrees drop and not the cold outside intake air and they were noisy. I heated a 12 x 56 trailer VERY comfey anytime the sun hit the panel. There were a coupe times we had to open a window or door to let some heat out or shut off fans and just let it siphon. I never did get around to mounting fans at the bottom of the panel with a diffuser I think would cut the noise way down, but I was warm and happy so why mess with it!
In the spring we just took them out of window and stored in shed.
But pushing in 60/70 F room air instead of 20F or less outside air in like yours, across a double metal surface you'd get fantastic efficiency with the fans! ... and wouldn't have to worry about sucking cold outside air into room if panel got shaded and fans were still running.
You could do same with yours now without too much modification by adding a manifold box on the bottom where you have your intake holes or cut them into slots across to reduce restriction and load on fan, and ducting in room temp air thru insulated dryer duct into that manifold to feed panel.. Bring output and input air into and from unit from same window insert plate with in and out ducts separated on each side of plate and solar panel mounted below the window and still get light thru window, less 4" for duct plate.
We're in the desert now so I haven't played around with panels in years. Low here was 44 last night and 76 today but in New Jersey it was a life saver then!
Dang, this turned out to be long winded.... lol
Interesting Do you have a video too? Im a bit confused about how you got the fan to turn without a solar panel
Electricity?
Gerbil?
@@EffortlessEthan Solar panel and 12-volt fan.
This would be great for an off grid insulated out house.
I thought I'd look for a follow up to your old video and SURE ENOUGH! Keep up the good work.
If you sand a piece of charcoal after you’ve painted whilst wet onto the metal fins and inside the box this will increase surface area by x 2000 and gather more heat.
According to an online calculator, this puts out 10,541 BTU in its current state. Thats based off a Temperature difference of 122 F and a mass flow rate of 80 CFM. You should do a follow up with a vent connected to the inside of a home, so the inlet temperature will be around 70 F.
Unless the panel is at least like 9' by 3' that isn't particularly possible. The sun provides like a bit over a kilowatt per square meter, so at least 1 of your estimates used to make that calculation(I would assume it is the rate of air movement) is probably a bit off. The energy output is still pretty good.
Excellent idea with the drip edging. I do believe the best heat absorber is aluminum window screens.
I may use the edging for a smaller unit I want to build for the back window of my truck.
Window screen works very well
Best design I’ve seen so far. Thank you for sharing: ) simple yet effective
you're welcome 🙂👍
Yes good work man‼️keep up the vids‼️I’m sure you are helping a lot of people 👍🏻😎🔨
Nice buddy, thanks.
I have a 400 square foot cabin in northern BC Canada.
I’m going to give this a whirl.
Be nice to leave running unattended to keep things from freezing entirely at -20 degrees Celsius.
Just have to make pretty steep slope for snow and lose direct facing sunlight.
Thanks again.
any update?
If you had a thermal mass in your home (cob or adobe maybe) to store that heat you could warm an area to a max temp during the day and it would slowly cool through the night.
160 wouldnt probably last that long. Rocketstoves get up in to 500+ degrees.
Pizza stones?
@@BlackHeartGuitar 160°F is plenty hot enough so long as you have a large enough thermal mass(hundreds if not thousands of gallons of water or dirt could be stored in a house without being excessively bulky) 500°F objects are a fire hazard.
Maybe phase change material, such as solution of sodium sulfate in water, could be useful?
Youre producing more heat with that drill bit than anything else...lol
I have two sliding glass doors to do this with.. very heavy ! Build looks great obvious you could use insulation, and an old double insulated window is a plus. I believe you want the collector sealed
in front no air movement and about an inch back from glass. (You will get cold air exchange moving at glass surface especially without double glass). I may use down spouts for my large unit but for a small unit aluminum gutters flatend and reshaped or roll of flashing perhaps bent like yours. great ideas !
Can we see a picture when you finish? I may need to build on soon.
@@fabriglas
Still have the glass but no build, Sorry. In all reality aluminum screen is best. Two layer's slitly separated. Speed of air exchange is important. So far as the sliding door material. Is just an insulated shadow box. The glass is great becouse it should be filled with orgon gass for its anti exchange properties. The frame would have to be strong as the sliding door is heavy. Sorry I can't be much more help.
Try arranging like fins in a heat sink to catch more light and provide more surface for air to flow over. Heat sink has the same goal.
This has potential for an off-grid bath house, laundry or workshop.
Thanks for doing the Celsius too. :-)
hi. i've gotten a lot better at remembering to give that too. 👍🙂
From my old days in engineering, before I switched to business, I think the "volume" of air is what's the biggest factor to consider with larger units. Our Co. Tech works the same way, the more air moved the better efficiencies) 2 fans putting out 170, vs 1 putting out 250? (ouch? That's HOT! Great if you could store that heat for later too!) Anyway- 2 Sounds to be about the same area covered as 1 big one. Was the glass cheaper/sq ft? Can/did you put on a bigger fan to move more air? I was thinking of taking out 1/2 of 2 windows of an apartment and putting a collector in their place. You could then easily recycle the air. Just place it outside of the window channel so you can still slide the other window for fire escape. Making some sort of air movement baffles would help insulate it when not in use. Layers of light plastic sheets that lift when the fan blows? Oh yeah,would have to create a cloned 2nd open area at the bottom to input and distribute the air. Another idea is to make fake Shutters as collectors? BTW- Has anyone tried corrugated sheet metal roofing yet? Really cheap.
Ty máš tolik zbytečných oken. Pak účinnější bude je nahradit dobře izolovanou zdí a na tu zeď zvenku přidělat ten ohřívač. Ale navíc bude stejně jen rozdíl z tepelného zisku oken, který ztratíš a zisku z ohřívače.
Nemá smysl tímto zařízením nahrazovat dobře izolovaná okna. To už je lepší zlepšit izolaci oken. Třetí sklo, izolace rámu, zabránit profukování vzduchu různými škvírami.
Im mulling over similar idea but with aluminum flashing bent with steep angles kind of like a 5inch thick high end air filter has those deep pleats... I think there is some reflection in all these solar heater designs so i want to try one with what do they call it "angle of incidence" where one angle that gets the light bounces majority of that ray onto the other pleat not back through the glass.. Im looking at 2 old slider doors i have as the source of glass and building a frame with 2x8 lumber insulated with 2 inch foam inside the chamber then wrapped with bent flashing to be weather resistant. I am thinking this size unit would require 8inch inline fan, insulated ducting, temp control baffles/dampers, and be attached in some way to be removed or covered for summertime. Luck for me i have already direct south facing 2 story wall. I need to do a small test of the idea which is what i think many of the others are doing testing the designs on scale to decide. But i really do see and issue with the surface area and angle the rays hit or reflect off of all of the units people build. I liked one design i seen because it had 2 steps to the glass, one layer of polycarbonate and then a piece of tempered with an air gap between to slow down radiant heat loss out of the unit. i would have to build some sort of bracing for the poly on full scale. My second concern is building it to well and risk a fire if the fan fails. Wood will light off at a continued temp of 360F not sure about the foam insulations.
Corrugated sheet metal is what I was thinking too. It might even be cheaper to install, especially the thinner metal.
@@juraposp Translated from Czech - "You have so many useless windows. Then it will be more effective to replace them with a well-insulated wall and add the heater to that wall from the outside. But in addition, there will still only be a difference between the heat gain of the windows that you will lose and the gain from the heater.
It makes no sense to replace well-insulated windows with this device. It is better to improve the insulation of the windows. The third glass, insulating the frame, prevent air from blowing through various cracks.
@@masterdebater8757 Maybe use a mirror film facing inward, inside the glass, which sends any reflected light that would exit the glass back inward instead?
Good video! Seems I saw (and made one) this basic idea in Mother Earth News many years ago...minus the fan. Great idea!
I really like the duct/e-box cover connection idea👍
Try using the inner plexiglass from an old big screen projection tv instead of glass. Its magnified so you'll also need to make a metal frame and possibly thicker gauge metal inside but the heat those generate is insane.
Are they UV light resistant? If not, the plexiglass could get brittle in a year. Great idea, though! Been thinking about covering some solar panels with it and giving it a coat of UV resistant lacquer.
Very Interesting :) There's hope for daytime heating for my van this winter :) Thanks!
Ha! I was thinking the same thing!!!
@Timothy Mckee so wipe off the snow. Your comment shows maximum laziness
@Timothy Mckee How much sun is your solar heater getting during a snow storm that's dropping enough snow to cover it in 5 minutes?
what if you reused the heat it produces like central heat for say an RV, instead of sucking in outside air just recirculate from where you are heating.
Yeah, I think that's what I would do too.. Suck in air from inside and spit it out inside. Why heat up 0C air when you can use slightly warmer air from inside, and keep heating the air from inside.
Carbon Dioxide, Carbon Monoxide, Nitrogen Dioxide, Sulphur Dioxide, Methane, etc... use in combination with a heat exchanger (except their efficiency sucks still) to preheat the intake air would be a better yield, but input electricity would outweigh any benefits.
@@jadosrd8950 What on EARTH are you talking about?? What you're mentioning here has nothing to do with what either M Langford wrote or I wrote..
The hell you on about? This does not produce ANY of the gasses you mentioned!
It’s in the air inside, which is why EVERY HVAC system draws air from outside. The system doesn’t produce them, you do
@@jadosrd8950 there are probably other systems in the house that will achieve this. Recirculating the air would seem to make the most sense for this application.
Great desing, for the winter I am going to try this one.
Also, I was thinking that you should be able to leave some stones in the sun all day and use it to heat during the evening.
Soapstone seems ideal, maybe combined with black paint and aluminium.
Dude get that copper pipe that has fin's on it. Make Gallium Aluminum Scandium alloy and fill the copper pipe and sweat everything together and snake it through the bavkside of your solar heater. The Gallium Aluminum Scandium alloy will absorb and conduct the heat for hour's after the sun go's down. You can also take advantage of drafting and heat your home or green house. 😀👍
Thinking of doing this for my greenhouse, build the unit so it fits in where one of the windows is in an unused corner and recirculate the already warmer air inside....
Hey Jim, how can you make Gallium Aluminum Scandium alloy ?
I just take all these builds and look around yard to see what can be used , I have a 4x6 greenhouse and first before I cut supply and returns in greenhouse I want to test things like I just built a box with screens and vents and think I might just use all this extra black 1/2 drip system black pipe and 1/4 ( never through stuff away ) I have laying around all stacked up if you will under neath screens to fan to create a baffling effect through black pipe , make sure no short cuts for air , that’s my goal for now , thanks for more ideas
What an eye opener of a video ! Thanks for making and sharing this !!
Glad it was helpful!
If you think of this system in terms of how you would build a passive house you would insulate the box and the hose. Stopping heat loss on the box and hose would net higher temps and be more efficient.
It should be a good idea to install the fan on the back side of the solar heater... Since it will make fan has longer lifetime...
Desert Sun is a cool arsssss son of a gun!!! Thanks for all you do!!!
You should insulate the box if you want to use in winter time.
Wow! Amazing!
Thank you!
Should both sides of the edge be painted black, is a question I asked an ai bot: Here's its answer: If you paint only the outside of the aluminum edge black and leave the inside unpainted, it will absorb sunlight differently than if you painted both the inside and outside black.
When sunlight hits the black-painted surface, it gets absorbed and converted into heat energy. The heat then gets transferred into the aluminum material, which conducts it to the unpainted interior surface. Since the interior surface is not painted black, it will reflect a significant portion of the incoming heat back towards the black-painted exterior surface, reducing the overall heat absorption of the edge.
On the other hand, if you paint both the inside and outside black, the entire edge will absorb a greater amount of sunlight and heat since there is no reflective surface within it to bounce back the heat.
Therefore, painting both the inside and outside of the aluminum edge black will result in greater absorption of sunlight and heat than painting only the outside black.
You are doing a great service to humanity sharing valuable knowledge, thank you!
hi. very nice of you to say 👈
These ideas are great. We use a lot of energy for heating and cooling, this way can save tons of energy if applied at scale.
Awesome project. Thanks for making it!
hi there. you bet! thanks for watching 🙂
Corrugated steel roofing works as well. Often times building supply stores keep odd length cover sheets from orders.
A good way to save money is to go to a scrap yard and find old fluorescent light fixtures. Inside you will find thin sheet metal reflectors that have the same 90°s as the sheet metal strips your using from home depot however you will get them at less than a tenth of the cost. Keep thinking outside of the box "pun intended" 😎👍
@@TheDaken where I live scavenging Municipal scrap yards has been criminalized.
You can use cardboard boxes to insulate the box. Just cut and tape inside the box. The cardboard boxes are free from the stores. Haft of inch of cardboard boxes could provide up to R5 insulation to the box. The temperature inside the box will be higher as you add insulation to it.
R5 usually takes a bit over an inch of 10 psi rated polystyrene foam and cardboard is more conductive than most 10 psi rated polystyrene foam, so you probably want to rely on trapping an air gap more than so then directly using the cardboard as an insulator.
If you could build exerts units
Maybe you could run the excess heat into maybe a ice cooler or something larger, filled with
say river rock to store heat
This is very interesting. I wonder what could happen here, if you put these drip- edges horizontally, forzing the air to ascend in zig-zag, as the channels/baffles box you have somewhere else.
A good way to save money is to go to a scrap yard and find old fluorescent light fixtures. Inside you will find thin sheet metal reflectors that have the same 90°s as the sheet metal strips your using from home depot however you will get them at less than a tenth of the cost. Keep thinking outside of the box "pun intended" 😎👍
This device would be excellent for drying clothes here in brasil!
Thanx for the idea!
😆👍
💚💛💙
you're welcome. sounds like a good idea ⭐
Use aluminum, better conductor of heat.
Great amazing job !
Thank you! Cheers!
Great! and a great thanks for all your DIY shared video's.
Best one I’ve seen.
thanks! 😎
Word of advice if you haven't already found out over time wood panels rot after 17 years i had to take my 2 4x8 panels down due to wood rotting even tho they were sheet-ed over with aluminum but cost to expenditure ratio after 17 years figure it cost me about 15.00 a year to build payed for themselves first half of first year and saved me thousands in oil or gas bills and even running a ac fan versus solar it was still negligible cost versus blower on furnace am presently rebuilding for next 20 year run figure ill be to old to care by next rebuild and nursing homes include heat but in answer to someones question on size to efficiency bigger is always better and i built mine with aluminum tube heat sinks so it was really efficient heat transfer.
Smooth drier pipe instead of the flex pipe should improve heat output. I like this cleaner build over beer cans! lol
Wonder how to use this with thermal mass or sand battery. I live in an area that is a lot colder at night and very sunny during the day. Awesome DIY!
Straightforward, economical build--good work. However, you wouldn't pump 165 degree heated air into a house. So, if you were to use this to heat an interior space what other components would you use to regulate the heat?
hi. yep, you just pump it straight into your house. i usually use a table fan to disperse the air inside the room. since it's only one vent, it never gets too hot. you could of course hook up a thermostat to the fan. they have ones as low as 8 bucks on amazon.
That's awesome good build and very imformative video. Thanks. Will have to make a couple 👍❤
Once again you come up with some great stuff.
wow...needless 2 say...............u r something special... thank you!
Google “solar chimney”. Pull air from a duct through the lower part of your wall (or a lower floor/basement) and output it higher up the wall. Angle your heater outside to optimum solar angle. Convection will naturally pull air through the heater and your fan will not have to work as hard.
what if you "vented " both sides so the incoming air is already warm and just re heated ? then your fan could be on the "cool" side ? I'm with M Langford on this one :-)
i've learned from other videos that you need to suc the hot air and pump it out of the box. you can not blow cool air since it will increase speed and won't stay long enough to heat.
The fan could become a means of temperature control by breadboard or Arduino to control its speed, less speed less heat.
Making a Jerky Dryer using the panel as my power source. Jerky takes about 4 hours to dry and my area only has propane. Not very economical to say the least. I'll keep you updated. My only concern is when you seal the fan inside the unit you subject it to the internal heat when not in use and it makes it hard to change out if it fails. I'm putting my fan on the outside in a small mounting box. Just a thought
putting that on a table with the air intake below and the air output rising into a cabin would be a great way of making it all work with zero need for fans. Let convection take care of it all.
Just what I was thinking...
The fan is pulling the air though. Sure, convection would work, but the fan is going to move so much more air overall
@@destroy43 I used a convection heater that had a fan, in one apartment. I always had the fan turned off as it made not a jot of difference.
love your use of a jbox round for the hose.
thanks. i use that or sometimes 3" air intake mounts (auto. dept)
Great video man you do excellent work I like all of your videos Great tech stuff I power my whole house off solar so now I can add solar hot water heater and solar heater from just watching your videos thanks for sharing the knowledge
hi and thanks. that's awesome 👍
if you added concave mirrors to reflect sunlight onto this, what temp can you reach?
It actually sed to use a natural draw to move the air. From the room to the box . Then out to the room. By allowing the heat to raise..
hi there. that can work if the unit is a lot bigger (like 15 to 20x bigger) but for anything smaller you really need to use a fan
Fantastic video
thanks! 🙂
I'm not sure why people use channels / tubes / cans... sheet metal should be adequate - a single plane in front of an air pocket behind, NO?
I also agree with Aguila below, direct your home air into the bottom, so it's already starting out warm, then being heated more.
And, lastly, you can forego a lot of this construction / assembly work if you just place a matt black sheet of metal somewhere in direct sunlight during the period you want heat. Don't block the windows, just place them inboard of the windows somewhere in the room, in direct sunlight.
Of course, these other ideas of insulated assemblies have a place when you want to Build them into your home without blocking windows.
Nice invention dude. 👍👍
Reply to Brad not Landa
Good on you my friend, but there are designs that are more efficient from the 80s. Cold air return came from the house and came into an insulated rear chamber. That air came up through 2 layers of black painted expanded lath. Then in the house.
The earlier versions of your basic build had roofing run horizontally and plexiglass bumps to encourage the air to do more than just rise up the glass face...
How about if the hose was sprayed black, you insulated the internal of the box and then used a slightly black tinted Perspex. All helps with heat absorption and would produce a potentially higher heat output.
Run the fan at 1/2 power that would leave the air in the heat box for longer potentially resulting in even more heat being produced.
I've got one other thing to add to it... Using the "undercarriage paint" or the "rubber paint" for further insulation of the appliance.
Out of all the designs you built, which one would you say had the best heat output?
Outstanding!
thank you!
What happens when it rains? Your backing will collapse over time. Also you didn’t as far as I can see weather seal the box.
lumber is treated already to an extent.
nice i have a skidding glass door i been thanking about making one out of it
Great Project!
Thanks for sharing!
Just curious?
Have you tested the difference in temp when it's cloudy out?
I'm sure it will still warm up but just curious of the difference.
I tried the vertical configuration, didn't work as well as a continuous tube built in a serpentine configuration, small intake baffle at lowest level and exhaust at the top. Snap switch installed to automatically turn unit fan off and on. The serpentine configuration holds the heat longer, also builds to a higher temperature for the exhaust.
Would like to see it at work in a real life situation.
Hey...your projects are just amazing. Can you please share about the exact paint that you have used and the glue you used to stick the aluminium
hi and thanks! i usually just use a generic flat black spray paint from home depot. it's nothing fancy. recently i've started using the paint and primer type. that is rustoleum and cost about 5 bucks a can. both work good though. i use something called liquid nails to hold the aluminum. it's a construction adhesive. you can get it at home depot or place like home depot. or amazon.
Fantastic results!!
Thank you for very good tutor , I will going to try how it's working
looks like a great idea.
Bravo et merci le ventilateur est indispensable
hi there and thank you. you are correct about the fan. it's needed for sure. only the very large units can get away with no fan..
@@desertsun02 Thank you.
Three years later, I'm curious if the glue used to put those metal angle pieces down actually held the metal all the time the solar box was used. I wouldn't think it would have been sufficient after multiple high heating cycles.
hi. it's held up great. no problems
What is the measurements for this project
Awesome build man!!
Good job. I would have put the fan at the bottom so it ran cool.
My thought too
Great idea
Also seen it made with popcans. Stop and bottom of each can cut open. Stacked end to end and painted flat black.
If you look at his videos, he has already shown that version.
@@eugsmiley I noticed that after I replied, hahaha
This is so cool! I wonder if I can implement that in my van build when I get one?
hi there. i think that's a great idea.
My like to the video for the description completeness
my compliments on your skills! I wonder about the btu output and how scaling it up vertically would affect its top tempture and cloudy day usfullness. Your units heat output on all but heavy cloudy days might be a pleasent surprise.
heat lamp and battery packs
What's the outside temp? Not sure how much warmer the air will be if it's say 27 degrees Fahrenheit. We had a water heater using this principle, worked pretty well.
hi there. outdoor temps during filming were anywhere from 37F to 43F.
Hello, Great videos. I would like your advice if that's ok with you?. Can you advise me from your experiences which diy solar heater would you say worked the best and got the hottest during your experiments?
Well done!