Study racing. Particularly motorcycle racing. There is a braking phase a leaning phase and an acceleration phase in cornering. Taking the outside inside outside line to maintain the most speed through the corner. Like you said don't squeeze the wheel. Relax and hard brake before the turn. Get the wheel under you as you lean. Pull the wheel over with your outside leg. As you line up the apex, accelerate out with the outside toe as the gas pedal. Bend the inside leg in the turn as well, and gradually straighten it as you accelerate out of it. The wheels firmware tries to aid you while riding, and most people don't understand that. They think since the wheel tilts forward while they are taking a turn, it's a defect. When it is not. They just don't understand they were braking in the middle of a turn, and the wheel doesn't know that. If you brake before the turn and carry speed through it then accelerate out, the wheel won't "dip" on you in the middle of the corner. It only dips the toes during fast deceleration to give you more control with the wheel in front of you. I'm trying to spread this as simple as possible. You're getting it, I just feel my background in racing helped me figure it out quicker than most. Whenever I hear Wrong Way talking about pedal dipping on turns, I cringe because you can't explain anything to the "pros."
Excellent points, thanks a million 🙌🙏 I will try definitely to apply what you are suggesting, it really sounds an effective reasoning and I am looking forward to practicing it 😊 Could I pin this comment for other people to read and learn?
@Alexis Zakariene No problem, there's always going to be the people who swear I'm wrong. I find any info helps us when we're trying to build skills. You have wayy more wheel time than I do, (1300miles) but I've been riding motorcycles my entire life, so we look at corners very differently.
🙌 We can all learn from each other regardless of milage, experience etc. I think you have valid points and although we might end up riding differently, it is always useful to move out of our comfort zone and try something new. I will defo try the euc motorcycle way as you suggested. I ride with a knobby tyre so for me it might be more difficult to apply as I don't have as much as a gyroscopic effect as with a road tyre, but I will practice it regardless 👍 😊
I have found the closer my feet to the wheel the less stable it is the farther away (talking half inches here) it is more stable. If I ride pigeon toed I get far more wobbles that toes out. It’s crazy how millimeters make such a difference to the ride and the stability. Thanks.
Yep, I found that too, millimetres matters. It is also very subjective to each rider as some ride with different modes (hard, medium, soft) and with / without powerpads. This was my personal experience and I hope it can help others 👍
Depending on speed and situation , the feet must maneuver to certain positions on the pedal, from hanging turns or slow precision turning to fast riding, bumpy roads etc. Feet should be in correct proper position always changing accordingly. Chau
when the euc itself is so small(and you only have legs touching) every other change makes a big difference. a half inch inwards is a lot less weight you can put on the pedals to push it around(never ridden one, just assuming here).
I keep my feet against the wheel. Both my legs sometimes don't even touch the sides of wheel. But lean it against one leg, push more with one side and I never ever have a speed wobble. I love to stock powerpads on my sherman because I'm not locked in and can me my body around. I can corner fast even on bumpy bicycle path s turn by moving my hips to move my body weight around. I'm hanging of the side like the motorcycle rider I am too. I only have a little brake wobble sometimes because both legs are pushing the pads.
I guess it depends on your ride ev. I stand straight I get no wobble. When Im crouched and pushing hard is when I get extreme wobbles. I ride mten3. So no pads... I would like a faster ride but the lack of braking and cutout doesnt seem right. Also many potholes and steep transitions to parkinglots and road have ejected me from my euc and slammed euc to the ground doing a lot of damage even at low speeds. Very informative video. Will change what I pick for a next ride.
By the looks of your shadow, your center of gravity is a bit forward contributing to the wobbles but I'm sure you figured that out. It's brilliant to see you trying different adjustments to figure out the causes. One to add would be leg fatigue. Ones legs tend to tense up when riding fatigued and as you mentioned, the key was to be relaxed. One example of center of gravity being too forward can be seen in this vid: ua-cam.com/video/Gl5Ij0X5row/v-deo.html By the way, great video. You need way more subs so thought I'd help out. Keep'm coming.
Thank you so much 🙏 Also great high speed wobble save on your video! You are absolutely correct! infact not only my posture tends to be too forward but the exn hs has also got 2 battery packs in the front versus to only one in the back. This in turn contributed to even more wobbles that I would normally get :P
Yes, that's absolutely true. However, certain situations might not allow for that, so better practice a mixtures of possibilities. Hard breaking, accelarating, turning sharply and at speed etc... For instance, if wobbles occur in a turn where accelarating might land you worse off down a cliff, or against a car, then maybe better knowing how to breake hard with wobbles or how to fall...
Im thinking you can lean the wheel to 1 side and shift your weight back to brake. Leaning wheel will force the wobble out like carving does but shifting weight back but not all the way leaning back...
Yeah I was experimenting different techniques for braking at high speed, tried to lean all the way back to the extent of sitting backwards but the wobbles increased instead if subsiding to the point that I was wacked to the ground at 40 mph 😬
Sure 👍 Wrist Phone holder link: amzn.to/3BDVVuB Glove mirror link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234069176808?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=HPzx1MiMSd6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=2ChPD45MTG2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY If the links don't work, try searching wrist phone holder and rear view glove mirror, products similar to these should come up on a google / ebay / amazon etc search. Hope it helps
Thank you for the tip 👍 I have tried a street tyre ( the heidenau k66 ) for about 500 miles. Unfortunately I had even worse wobbles than with the knobby. I had enjoyed the street tyre loads though, carving was magical. Currently I am riding 90% off-road so it might not worth it putting a street tyre on again for me...
I am using a surfer leash, which has strong velcro straps on both side so it's easy to put on and off. It has a stretchable lenght of about 3m ( I use the 7mm, 10ft version) and since it is a coiled cord, it doesn't get in the way of riding not even when seated. It also has double swivel sides so it doesn't get tangled up. Here's the link: amzn.to/3xfDYzB
im about to throw my v12 is the fking garbage.i think my wheel is defective. i been skating my whole childhood snd riding motorcycles and i cant stop wobbling for sht. if i go about 15mph it wobbles like crazy and i have to break everytime
I mostly use Dainese Axial D1 motorcycle boots because they offer one of the best ankle protection systems, they are flexible and waterproof. However I find them quite slippery on offroad grounds and I wish they protected also the top of the toes instead of only the lateral side. In the future I am planning to try Motocross boots to see if they offer similar protection with a bit more sole grip 👍
I have motorcross boots and they are totally useless for euc. I also have motorcycle boots and they have protection yet they do not function properly on euc. There is definately a target footwear needed. Motorcycle gear wont let you move foot like you need on an euc. I find ankle restrictive wear counter to euc control. Would be nice to have gear designed to protect ankle and have movability for euc use.
I hear you as it took me well over a week to get used to the "sensless"feeling of motorcycle boots over the pedals. However, in off road solo riding situations especially, motorcycle gear gave me the confidence to step over my confidence limit as I knew that if I were to fall I was protected... I agree that it is not for everyone and the feeling can be limiting at times. I use tight power pads to help me with control in those cases 😊
@@pacochawa2746 not completely true. Moto gear will absolutely work on EUCs. It really depends on your wheel and riding preference/values. You may have to adjust your riding style and wheel set up to accommodate your foot wear limitations. Power Pads and angling your spiked pedals have a large impact on bridging that gap. My race moto boots feel right at home on my higher paced street commuting wheel. However when I play at speeds 3mph - 15mph on my lil mten I opt for regular sneakers or moto sneakers for maximum ankle control for such a small twitchy wheel.
On an mtwn3 motor gear will not work. That was all I knew. Cant speak for other wheels. Those guys at euc serbia dont like motorcycle gear either. Do what works for you.
Study racing. Particularly motorcycle racing. There is a braking phase a leaning phase and an acceleration phase in cornering. Taking the outside inside outside line to maintain the most speed through the corner. Like you said don't squeeze the wheel. Relax and hard brake before the turn. Get the wheel under you as you lean. Pull the wheel over with your outside leg. As you line up the apex, accelerate out with the outside toe as the gas pedal. Bend the inside leg in the turn as well, and gradually straighten it as you accelerate out of it.
The wheels firmware tries to aid you while riding, and most people don't understand that. They think since the wheel tilts forward while they are taking a turn, it's a defect. When it is not. They just don't understand they were braking in the middle of a turn, and the wheel doesn't know that. If you brake before the turn and carry speed through it then accelerate out, the wheel won't "dip" on you in the middle of the corner. It only dips the toes during fast deceleration to give you more control with the wheel in front of you.
I'm trying to spread this as simple as possible. You're getting it, I just feel my background in racing helped me figure it out quicker than most. Whenever I hear Wrong Way talking about pedal dipping on turns, I cringe because you can't explain anything to the "pros."
Excellent points, thanks a million 🙌🙏
I will try definitely to apply what you are suggesting, it really sounds an effective reasoning and I am looking forward to practicing it 😊
Could I pin this comment for other people to read and learn?
@Alexis Zakariene No problem, there's always going to be the people who swear I'm wrong. I find any info helps us when we're trying to build skills. You have wayy more wheel time than I do, (1300miles) but I've been riding motorcycles my entire life, so we look at corners very differently.
🙌
We can all learn from each other regardless of milage, experience etc. I think you have valid points and although we might end up riding differently, it is always useful to move out of our comfort zone and try something new. I will defo try the euc motorcycle way as you suggested. I ride with a knobby tyre so for me it might be more difficult to apply as I don't have as much as a gyroscopic effect as with a road tyre, but I will practice it regardless 👍 😊
@@alexiszakariene I also have a knobby tire. ExN HT. With a shinko enduro tire. It eats up all terrain. LoL
Glad I got a shinko. Cst was giving me big problems.
I have found the closer my feet to the wheel the less stable it is the farther away (talking half inches here) it is more stable. If I ride pigeon toed I get far more wobbles that toes out. It’s crazy how millimeters make such a difference to the ride and the stability. Thanks.
Yep, I found that too, millimetres matters. It is also very subjective to each rider as some ride with different modes (hard, medium, soft) and with / without powerpads. This was my personal experience and I hope it can help others 👍
Depending on speed and situation , the feet must maneuver to certain positions on the pedal, from hanging turns or slow precision turning to fast riding, bumpy roads etc.
Feet should be in correct proper position always changing accordingly. Chau
Agreed! 👍
I am also trying to learn different styles of foot positioning as it could turn out to be useful depending on situations 😉
when the euc itself is so small(and you only have legs touching) every other change makes a big difference. a half inch inwards is a lot less weight you can put on the pedals to push it around(never ridden one, just assuming here).
I keep my feet against the wheel. Both my legs sometimes don't even touch the sides of wheel. But lean it against one leg, push more with one side and I never ever have a speed wobble. I love to stock powerpads on my sherman because I'm not locked in and can me my body around. I can corner fast even on bumpy bicycle path s turn by moving my hips to move my body weight around. I'm hanging of the side like the motorcycle rider I am too. I only have a little brake wobble sometimes because both legs are pushing the pads.
Thanks for the technique tips, trying to figure out how to avoid or tame the high speed wobbles is priority!
greet videos - the wobbling was really hard . your channel content is great . please continue.
Thank you so much, appreciated ☺️
I guess it depends on your ride ev. I stand straight I get no wobble. When Im crouched and pushing hard is when I get extreme wobbles. I ride mten3. So no pads... I would like a faster ride but the lack of braking and cutout doesnt seem right. Also many potholes and steep transitions to parkinglots and road have ejected me from my euc and slammed euc to the ground doing a lot of damage even at low speeds. Very informative video. Will change what I pick for a next ride.
Thank you! If you have any questions ask away 👍
I ve actually never ridder a mten3, I d love to try a wheel smaller than 16" 🤩
Well done , nicely assembled how to instructor class video, bravo 👏
Thank you so much 🙏
i put my dominant leg a little ahead on the pedal just on the edge and my other leg close to the wheel, and i rarely have woobles
By the looks of your shadow, your center of gravity is a bit forward contributing to the wobbles but I'm sure you figured that out. It's brilliant to see you trying different adjustments to figure out the causes. One to add would be leg fatigue. Ones legs tend to tense up when riding fatigued and as you mentioned, the key was to be relaxed. One example of center of gravity being too forward can be seen in this vid: ua-cam.com/video/Gl5Ij0X5row/v-deo.html
By the way, great video. You need way more subs so thought I'd help out. Keep'm coming.
Thank you so much 🙏 Also great high speed wobble save on your video! You are absolutely correct! infact not only my posture tends to be too forward but the exn hs has also got 2 battery packs in the front versus to only one in the back. This in turn contributed to even more wobbles that I would normally get :P
Thank you for your patience with this video.
Keep them coming...
You go Girl 🤠
Thank you so much, highly appreciated! Will try my best to upload regularly 😊
Really helpful
Practice more pressure on one leg at all times! its a heel toe thing. Essentially 1 leg riding. If you master it all the wobbles will disappear.
Accelerate out of wobbles. Never brake as it makes them worse.
Yes, that's absolutely true. However, certain situations might not allow for that, so better practice a mixtures of possibilities. Hard breaking, accelarating, turning sharply and at speed etc... For instance, if wobbles occur in a turn where accelarating might land you worse off down a cliff, or against a car, then maybe better knowing how to breake hard with wobbles or how to fall...
@@alexiszakariene True lol. Hard braking wobbles where you are trying to avoid hitting something...my advice would be of no help.
Im thinking you can lean the wheel to 1 side and shift your weight back to brake. Leaning wheel will force the wobble out like carving does but shifting weight back but not all the way leaning back...
Yeah I was experimenting different techniques for braking at high speed, tried to lean all the way back to the extent of sitting backwards but the wobbles increased instead if subsiding to the point that I was wacked to the ground at 40 mph 😬
can you tell me where to get those mirrors and phone holders to attach to the back of your gloves?
Sure 👍
Wrist Phone holder link:
amzn.to/3BDVVuB
Glove mirror link:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234069176808?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=HPzx1MiMSd6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=2ChPD45MTG2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
If the links don't work, try searching wrist phone holder and rear view glove mirror, products similar to these should come up on a google / ebay / amazon etc search. Hope it helps
that kind of wobbles is usually because of the knobby tire. Put a street tire on it and that will disappear
Thank you for the tip 👍
I have tried a street tyre ( the heidenau k66 ) for about 500 miles. Unfortunately I had even worse wobbles than with the knobby. I had enjoyed the street tyre loads though, carving was magical. Currently I am riding 90% off-road so it might not worth it putting a street tyre on again for me...
What tether are you using?
I am using a surfer leash, which has strong velcro straps on both side so it's easy to put on and off.
It has a stretchable lenght of about 3m ( I use the 7mm, 10ft version) and since it is a coiled cord, it doesn't get in the way of riding not even when seated.
It also has double swivel sides so it doesn't get tangled up.
Here's the link:
amzn.to/3xfDYzB
im about to throw my v12 is the fking garbage.i think my wheel is defective. i been skating my whole childhood snd riding motorcycles and i cant stop wobbling for sht. if i go about 15mph it wobbles like crazy and i have to break everytime
if i go above 15mph
What is your footwear??? Boots are better and having toe in is best...
I mostly use Dainese Axial D1 motorcycle boots because they offer one of the best ankle protection systems, they are flexible and waterproof.
However I find them quite slippery on offroad grounds and I wish they protected also the top of the toes instead of only the lateral side.
In the future I am planning to try Motocross boots to see if they offer similar protection with a bit more sole grip 👍
I have motorcross boots and they are totally useless for euc. I also have motorcycle boots and they have protection yet they do not function properly on euc. There is definately a target footwear needed. Motorcycle gear wont let you move foot like you need on an euc. I find ankle restrictive wear counter to euc control. Would be nice to have gear designed to protect ankle and have movability for euc use.
I hear you as it took me well over a week to get used to the "sensless"feeling of motorcycle boots over the pedals. However, in off road solo riding situations especially, motorcycle gear gave me the confidence to step over my confidence limit as I knew that if I were to fall I was protected... I agree that it is not for everyone and the feeling can be limiting at times. I use tight power pads to help me with control in those cases 😊
@@pacochawa2746 not completely true. Moto gear will absolutely work on EUCs. It really depends on your wheel and riding preference/values.
You may have to adjust your riding style and wheel set up to accommodate your foot wear limitations. Power Pads and angling your spiked pedals have a large impact on bridging that gap.
My race moto boots feel right at home on my higher paced street commuting wheel. However when I play at speeds 3mph - 15mph on my lil mten I opt for regular sneakers or moto sneakers for maximum ankle control for such a small twitchy wheel.
On an mtwn3 motor gear will not work. That was all I knew. Cant speak for other wheels. Those guys at euc serbia dont like motorcycle gear either. Do what works for you.