Your not just lucky, your lottery winning lucky! Some of us spend our lives 35 year or more surfing comps. Or free surfing getting adds but the cover. So stoked for you!
YOU can change that man:/ Who wants to surf slop for fuckin comps:/ Fuck covers and pics in general. Commercialization gets into anything they can make a buck from. Use some imagination to get money. I will mention Sapphires and Rubies in Cambodia and Myanmar.[be very careful in the second, the stone eyed 12 year old killers are now 20 to 30 and still totally fucked:/] Photos have ruined so many places, its getting harder to find some peace and good waves, but it can still be done:) The fuckin boat captains dont know ALL the top spots it took us 40 years to find:) Go north. PNG. Phillipines, Palau. Timor. Do your google homework first. We never had that in the 80s. What a wave finding tool it is. Hmmm, Is that a good thing?? Frontier....North PNG. Wild place with wild, LARGE surf. The winds are not as predictable as Indo and there are no cosy resorts but what are you a man or a wuss:/ Huge North Pacific open ocean swells pound remote parts of the north. Ive seen waves over 20 feet that are enough to scare the shit out of me! They are not nice smooth Hawaii type big waves. These are gnarly and looking for blood, over shallow reef that makes em throw twice as far as they are high! The spray flys three times the height of the swell. On the days when the winds are right, paradise is yours alone. You dont SEE pics of these waves ever, thank fuck. It would be too hard for most photogs to make the trip,lol. Well, ime a photog, but not waves much, and never published. I do nature mostly, with a bit of portrait work when i can stand it it and sis begs:/ Meanwhile, you sit on the beach eating rice and lentils waiting for a swell ,lol. Sometimes for more than a week! Fun times,lol. I know of a point break there that we thought was not even a wave. At four to 6 feet it just jacked then died away:/ But when the swell hit 8 feet plus, it was wrapping 400 plus meters into the bay. Multiple barrel sections and a beginners takeoff,[smooth with plenty of time to make entry,] THEN it kicked up to brown shorts shit! it started to get really heavy when it shallowed on the inside and grew a foot or three! Ends on nice sand in a beautiful protected bay. Last section is a calm down wall good for a few savage off the tops before kicking out and walking back up to battle out to the takeoff again. The reef is a fucking nightmare of urchins and coral spikes. Great snorkelling and fishing, and rarely a person to be seen. Really wild country! Wtf has happened to surfers. The spirit of adventure is nearly dead. Just a handful doing this while the rest pack out the Ments:/ Before that it was Bali, which suited us as there were no boats then and no surfers ranging past G land at most:/ If you want to see just one great wave in the Phillipines watch Alex Gray..Instabarrels. 14.05 26 N 123 '19 46 67 E Theres a giveaway, its so remote few will get there but the rewards are sweet. I beat him there by a decade at least. "Famous" surfers get idiots ringing them all the time to give away a piece of paradise so he can bring his photog to document his heroism:/ Bag him i may, but for a little guy i respect his guts and ability. If only he could shut the fuck up:/ Start at Siruma resort and take a jeepney to the ferry, then a small boat. Very cheap. You have to catch a small boat from the nearest village for the day then back at evening, its cheap as though. Pricks make breaks so easy to find, grrrrr. Fuckin Hawaiins and their insatiable need to be seen:/ Here LOOK AT ME...Bahhhhhhhhhhh. To be fair, they are not the only ones. Some supposed wild place travellers cant wait to make a vid of their latest find, with handy clues to its location too. At least Mick fanning made it near impossible to find his snake.[ime pretty sure but ime sayin nuuuthing:)] Another crew made a vid showing all you need to find a very rarely good, incredibly fast, long barrel, just off the shore! In the cape Verde"s. Its very rare for it to go off so no biggie, and a long way from anywhere:/ Latangai island in north PNG at Kavieng has a few good waves in season. A long right, a shorter left between the islands and other juicy breaks a short boat ride away. Here you can stay in cheap comfort right beside the break. It seems to attract the older crowd, probably more money, its not cheap taking 4 flights to get there! But an excellent right point running down the island on its day. Northern hemisphere winter. Same swells that pound Hawaii, just travel a bit farther so not as big. Dont spose i have to mention Rote island off Timor. Lot of variety. As far as Bali goes, i would not be seen dead there unless its off season. A little more bearable, but still too many fuckin people! The series of rights around the Sanur region being the pick here. If you like Bali get a boat across to the strait between East Lombok and West Sumbawa! Waves to suit all levels of skill!! Most waves are on the Sumbawa side so its a Bali wet season trip! Africa is the ultimate adventure but its mostly dirty and dangerous. Not for the holiday surfer or cunts with no mates along, or no defence skills. By this i dont just mean fighting ability, you have to know when to fight and when to hide, and when to paddle right out till the AK wielding bandits get sick of waiting after raiding all your shit and move on:/ Lifes not all roses:/ Last tip is the South Pacific. I love this place. Done two yacht trips all over here. So many waves, friendly people, if not really my taste in tucker, but if ya can manage on rice and lentils and the odd monkey up woop woop somewhere, the food there is no drama. You will love it. These places ive mentioned are not secrets. Some see very little traffic though. What i would like to see is all you sardines packed in places like Bali and the Ments to pull ya fuckin finger out and LIVE A LITTLE!! Cloudbreak in Fiji would have to be the best, most perfect, scary at size wave ive ever surfed. The place is like some daydream drawn by some kid. Fuckin INCREDIBLE, but heavy, wave!! BEWARE!! It looks not large from the shore, but wait till you get out there and have to start making excuses,lol. The Solomons have yet to be opened up. When they are, it will be another Mentawai job:/ Glad i wont be here. Ive had it perfect with a few mates:) You a hero and want it huge?. Palikir pass is for you. There is no real way of lining up and waves dont come in predictable places. Big peaks might break anywhere. Keeps you busy paddling, but when you get into a 15 to 20 foot slice of perfection, its all worth it. Again, have a look at Alex Gray showboating on a monster. Photog ever present,lol. The Marshalls have waves, but best stay away from the yanks nuke testing ground:/ The Cook islands have some great waves. I have a story about our yacht stopping at a place there. Dead flat almost. Two days later, got up to the sound we all know. A perfectly air brushed 6 foot right was peaking outside the bay, then running down one side not a drop out of place. Real leg trembler shit. Mostly barrel with a few open sections to shred. No people but the three of us hooting each other on as our legs were reduced to jelly,lol. HEAVEN:) Its days like that a surfer lives for:) Its all in the memory banks, dont need much in the way of photos. Ive taken a few, couldnt resist, but ive shown them to fuckall people. Fellow native Tasmanians mostly and a couple of like minded travelling nomad surfers. Share the joy with similiar people. In the 80s it was like that. Surfers would meet in out of the way places and share gifts like that, knowing it would not be plastered all over a fucking magazine:/ When i started surfing, Tracks was a newspaper type publication. Not that i liked reading it or other mags produced by money hungry cunts. Then it was the clothes and wettie time to enrich em:/ Competitions had been slowly gaining a following, though whats to enjoy watching some fool pumping and wiggling his board on a two foot[no, i wont call it a wave] boat wake has got me fucked. I only watch live, to learn from my betters. Like. Fuck that dude has a hot cuttie. Whats he doing?, and you watch and learn. Airs had not even started and the sight of them makes me spit. Ya sposed to surf the WAVE, if ya want air, get a fuckin parachute/windsurfer type rig. Nothing wrong with doing a massive off the top with a fin barely in the water, but if you leave the water, ya not surfing. Ohh yehh, i gotta say that Simons Thruster design was a huge game changer i did not mind:) Over the years ive found i like the way four fins work. All i use now. Stand and kneeboard! [nahh, no way ime laying down on a bodyboard or mat,]. Kneeboards ive found have a place at the right time. I can get a barrel on smaller waves on a kneeboard that makes my standup mates jealous,lol. You are far more stable and can fight the wave making sections you would not have a chance on standing up. One thing i cant stomach as someone who grew up standing only, is kneeboarders who just surf flat. Up and down, never a rail to rail move to be seen. Damn near any move you can do standing you can do kneeling, and its harder as you dont have knees as shock absorbers. Rail to rail turns, big reentrys using your hand to pull the board around. Anyway, times change unfortunately so enough from this aging , opinionated, surfing mad cunt:)
Nice wave for sure. But on a swell like that there are hundreds of them. It was more the photographer getting a great angle that got him the cover. On days like that guys are getting pitted every 10 seconds like a machine. My favorite wave but getting WAAAY overcrowded now. The 80s rocked, but were risky[so what:/]. Still, if you time your surfs while the kids are at school, still one of THE epic, perfect waves. Hawaii does nothing for me. I think pipe is WAAAY overrated:/ Give me a few 10 to 12 Nias barrels anytime:)
Love Miguel's attitude. Great skill, wave and photo.
Parabens menino! Couldn't have happened to a nicer guy it seems. Restores my faith in surfers.
Cheers legend 😊
Him and Ben Gravy are my 2 favs
Yea super cool cover shot great interview seem like a humble dude really cool, the article in surfer great pics.
Sick shot man couldnt happen to a nicer guy. Congrats Miguel!
It wasn't just luck, you had to execute that drop perfectly, and you did!
Great wave ...Congrats !!
so amazing I got the chills !!!
Wow! What an awesome shot.👍✌😀
Seems like such a cool cat. Congrats 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾
Massive. Congratulations Miguel!
Sickest drop and barrel I’ve ever seen
Woooow!! 🌊🔥
Incredible!
EPIC 💯✌️🤙🏄♂️
Porra tou a ficar velho pra xuxu... via o Miguel Blanco era um miudo a surfar na Caparica ha uns anos e agora isto..mega !!!
Parabéns!!!
Wow loved this item!! Congrats!!
Your not just lucky, your lottery winning lucky! Some of us spend our lives 35 year or more surfing comps. Or free surfing getting adds but the cover. So stoked for you!
YOU can change that man:/ Who wants to surf slop for fuckin comps:/ Fuck covers and pics in general. Commercialization gets into anything they can make a buck from. Use some imagination to get money. I will mention Sapphires and Rubies in Cambodia and Myanmar.[be very careful in the second, the stone eyed 12 year old killers are now 20 to 30 and still totally fucked:/] Photos have ruined so many places, its getting harder to find some peace and good waves, but it can still be done:) The fuckin boat captains dont know ALL the top spots it took us 40 years to find:) Go north. PNG. Phillipines, Palau. Timor. Do your google homework first. We never had that in the 80s. What a wave finding tool it is. Hmmm, Is that a good thing?? Frontier....North PNG. Wild place with wild, LARGE surf. The winds are not as predictable as Indo and there are no cosy resorts but what are you a man or a wuss:/ Huge North Pacific open ocean swells pound remote parts of the north. Ive seen waves over 20 feet that are enough to scare the shit out of me! They are not nice smooth Hawaii type big waves. These are gnarly and looking for blood, over shallow reef that makes em throw twice as far as they are high! The spray flys three times the height of the swell. On the days when the winds are right, paradise is yours alone. You dont SEE pics of these waves ever, thank fuck. It would be too hard for most photogs to make the trip,lol. Well, ime a photog, but not waves much, and never published. I do nature mostly, with a bit of portrait work when i can stand it it and sis begs:/ Meanwhile, you sit on the beach eating rice and lentils waiting for a swell ,lol. Sometimes for more than a week! Fun times,lol. I know of a point break there that we thought was not even a wave. At four to 6 feet it just jacked then died away:/ But when the swell hit 8 feet plus, it was wrapping 400 plus meters into the bay. Multiple barrel sections and a beginners takeoff,[smooth with plenty of time to make entry,] THEN it kicked up to brown shorts shit! it started to get really heavy when it shallowed on the inside and grew a foot or three! Ends on nice sand in a beautiful protected bay. Last section is a calm down wall good for a few savage off the tops before kicking out and walking back up to battle out to the takeoff again. The reef is a fucking nightmare of urchins and coral spikes. Great snorkelling and fishing, and rarely a person to be seen. Really wild country! Wtf has happened to surfers. The spirit of adventure is nearly dead. Just a handful doing this while the rest pack out the Ments:/ Before that it was Bali, which suited us as there were no boats then and no surfers ranging past G land at most:/ If you want to see just one great wave in the Phillipines watch Alex Gray..Instabarrels. 14.05 26 N 123 '19 46 67 E Theres a giveaway, its so remote few will get there but the rewards are sweet. I beat him there by a decade at least. "Famous" surfers get idiots ringing them all the time to give away a piece of paradise so he can bring his photog to document his heroism:/ Bag him i may, but for a little guy i respect his guts and ability. If only he could shut the fuck up:/ Start at Siruma resort and take a jeepney to the ferry, then a small boat. Very cheap. You have to catch a small boat from the nearest village for the day then back at evening, its cheap as though. Pricks make breaks so easy to find, grrrrr. Fuckin Hawaiins and their insatiable need to be seen:/ Here LOOK AT ME...Bahhhhhhhhhhh. To be fair, they are not the only ones. Some supposed wild place travellers cant wait to make a vid of their latest find, with handy clues to its location too. At least Mick fanning made it near impossible to find his snake.[ime pretty sure but ime sayin nuuuthing:)] Another crew made a vid showing all you need to find a very rarely good, incredibly fast, long barrel, just off the shore! In the cape Verde"s. Its very rare for it to go off so no biggie, and a long way from anywhere:/ Latangai island in north PNG at Kavieng has a few good waves in season. A long right, a shorter left between the islands and other juicy breaks a short boat ride away. Here you can stay in cheap comfort right beside the break. It seems to attract the older crowd, probably more money, its not cheap taking 4 flights to get there! But an excellent right point running down the island on its day. Northern hemisphere winter. Same swells that pound Hawaii, just travel a bit farther so not as big. Dont spose i have to mention Rote island off Timor. Lot of variety. As far as Bali goes, i would not be seen dead there unless its off season. A little more bearable, but still too many fuckin people! The series of rights around the Sanur region being the pick here. If you like Bali get a boat across to the strait between East Lombok and West Sumbawa! Waves to suit all levels of skill!! Most waves are on the Sumbawa side so its a Bali wet season trip! Africa is the ultimate adventure but its mostly dirty and dangerous. Not for the holiday surfer or cunts with no mates along, or no defence skills. By this i dont just mean fighting ability, you have to know when to fight and when to hide, and when to paddle right out till the AK wielding bandits get sick of waiting after raiding all your shit and move on:/ Lifes not all roses:/ Last tip is the South Pacific. I love this place. Done two yacht trips all over here. So many waves, friendly people, if not really my taste in tucker, but if ya can manage on rice and lentils and the odd monkey up woop woop somewhere, the food there is no drama. You will love it. These places ive mentioned are not secrets. Some see very little traffic though. What i would like to see is all you sardines packed in places like Bali and the Ments to pull ya fuckin finger out and LIVE A LITTLE!! Cloudbreak in Fiji would have to be the best, most perfect, scary at size wave ive ever surfed. The place is like some daydream drawn by some kid. Fuckin INCREDIBLE, but heavy, wave!! BEWARE!! It looks not large from the shore, but wait till you get out there and have to start making excuses,lol. The Solomons have yet to be opened up. When they are, it will be another Mentawai job:/ Glad i wont be here. Ive had it perfect with a few mates:) You a hero and want it huge?. Palikir pass is for you. There is no real way of lining up and waves dont come in predictable places. Big peaks might break anywhere. Keeps you busy paddling, but when you get into a 15 to 20 foot slice of perfection, its all worth it. Again, have a look at Alex Gray showboating on a monster. Photog ever present,lol. The Marshalls have waves, but best stay away from the yanks nuke testing ground:/ The Cook islands have some great waves. I have a story about our yacht stopping at a place there. Dead flat almost. Two days later, got up to the sound we all know. A perfectly air brushed 6 foot right was peaking outside the bay, then running down one side not a drop out of place. Real leg trembler shit. Mostly barrel with a few open sections to shred. No people but the three of us hooting each other on as our legs were reduced to jelly,lol. HEAVEN:) Its days like that a surfer lives for:) Its all in the memory banks, dont need much in the way of photos. Ive taken a few, couldnt resist, but ive shown them to fuckall people. Fellow native Tasmanians mostly and a couple of like minded travelling nomad surfers. Share the joy with similiar people. In the 80s it was like that. Surfers would meet in out of the way places and share gifts like that, knowing it would not be plastered all over a fucking magazine:/ When i started surfing, Tracks was a newspaper type publication. Not that i liked reading it or other mags produced by money hungry cunts. Then it was the clothes and wettie time to enrich em:/ Competitions had been slowly gaining a following, though whats to enjoy watching some fool pumping and wiggling his board on a two foot[no, i wont call it a wave] boat wake has got me fucked. I only watch live, to learn from my betters. Like. Fuck that dude has a hot cuttie. Whats he doing?, and you watch and learn. Airs had not even started and the sight of them makes me spit. Ya sposed to surf the WAVE, if ya want air, get a fuckin parachute/windsurfer type rig. Nothing wrong with doing a massive off the top with a fin barely in the water, but if you leave the water, ya not surfing. Ohh yehh, i gotta say that Simons Thruster design was a huge game changer i did not mind:) Over the years ive found i like the way four fins work. All i use now. Stand and kneeboard! [nahh, no way ime laying down on a bodyboard or mat,]. Kneeboards ive found have a place at the right time. I can get a barrel on smaller waves on a kneeboard that makes my standup mates jealous,lol. You are far more stable and can fight the wave making sections you would not have a chance on standing up. One thing i cant stomach as someone who grew up standing only, is kneeboarders who just surf flat. Up and down, never a rail to rail move to be seen. Damn near any move you can do standing you can do kneeling, and its harder as you dont have knees as shock absorbers. Rail to rail turns, big reentrys using your hand to pull the board around. Anyway, times change unfortunately so enough from this aging , opinionated, surfing mad cunt:)
@@TheZacdes Holy shit man you wrote a book
@@CMPLTE yehh, boredom, nostalgia and venting on "modern" surfing culture:/
Is Nias consistent,doesnt look like it would be cause it seems like its between a bit of a peninsula
Miguel Blanco born to be a Legend 💥💣🙌🏻👊🏻
So sick
Bravo!!!!
Its like looking down the throat of a dragon
Way awesome brother
Que buenaza esta esas olas y el tubo saludos dedes costa rica 🏄♂️
Brutal.. Buena Ola! Congrats!!!!
👍😎...u made it dude!
i was deeping in and yea i cried
It's ok bro 🤙
Legend
What's the tune on the background?
Congrats 👏
Uma morra de respeito...
Anybody knows the Song in the background?
The only hard part of Nias is the drop when it gets to 10 feet! Make that and set up for the barrel and your made. machine perfection:)
Only Amazing!
Portuguese Pride!!!
nice story..
Did Surfer pay him anything?
Lol. 10 foot. Was like 20
nice..
1) McAllister TV 2) You Are Free TV 3) Dr. Pat Holliday - Marine Spirits
❤
Mike White getting some😉
Puta que pariu. Lindo de ver. Parabéns Miguel pelo seu elevado nível de surf. Eu fico me só pelo sonho.
Nice wave for sure. But on a swell like that there are hundreds of them. It was more the photographer getting a great angle that got him the cover. On days like that guys are getting pitted every 10 seconds like a machine. My favorite wave but getting WAAAY overcrowded now. The 80s rocked, but were risky[so what:/]. Still, if you time your surfs while the kids are at school, still one of THE epic, perfect waves. Hawaii does nothing for me. I think pipe is WAAAY overrated:/ Give me a few 10 to 12 Nias barrels anytime:)
Heavy wave.
That shits scary.
yoooo
So pitted! Schwapah ...’#%¥¥>
jesus christ...
6-8' not 10 lol
yeah guy
What the fuck are you on that’s double overhead easy
lol, which bit is the 6ft.
You that bothered
That's easily more than 10ft on my scale......
Killer