Your spot on Doc, changed my brake fluid three times on the front of my 2000 FXDL, but never done the back. Time to make an effort. Thanks for reminding me. Much love from England.🇬🇧🇬🇧🇺🇸🇺🇸
I imported a 98 sporty to new Zealand a few years back Previous owner used engine oil in rear master cylinder shit what a good time I had overhauling that mess Thanks doc love all your vids and thanks for sharing your array of knowledge
Well, I will be doing a brake job today lines, pads, bleed and clean. Thanks for the info doc, love your videos learn so much and save me a lot of money. You know what HD stand for? Hundreds of Dollars. lol
Awesome mate! Cheers. I have a 96 Dyna and I lost rear brakes yesterday, now I reckon I'll be able to fix it (after watching your video). John, Darwin, N.T. Australia
Hi Doc, Great information about neglected parts due to their location. Swing arm attachment points would be a great video. I talk to a lot of DIY'er. When this topic comes up they get that "deer in the head lights look" That death wobble has some very easy to do work around products. They are not expensive, and ANYTHING YOU CAN DO WITHIN YOUR MEANS TO HELP REDUCE OR MITIGATE THIS WILL MAKE YOU RIDE SO MUCH MORE ENJOYABLE. After a couple of hours reading up it, I became very clear about the concerns and the process of the solutions. I am not promoting any products, as many people have produced solutions to help with this issue. Anyone with hand tools and a torque wrench can easy make an positive impact to minimize that problem. Please add to your passing along info about the corrosive brake line issue going on from the rear caliper all the up to the abs unit and back down to the master cylinder. Those abs units are very reliable when maintained properly. People on youtube show you ways to to withOUT some sort of digital syncroniztion device. I have done that too with great success, however, BRAKES ON BIKES ARE IMPORTANT , as they do not have the reduncy factor that cars and trucks have. YOU NEED brakes to stop and/or not lock up. I bought one for about 170, however, I have seen them lower. It is a lot less money than doing something stupid to your brakes. I also found you can become a hero with your bike riding buddies. Great bar conversation, Definately beats discussing politics. I have offered your solutions to people over the years. It starts with "Doc Harley did a youtube video about something like this. When your done looking at porn you should check it out. I know abs on bike is the second best modern invention next to heated grips. Have a happy 2022 riding season
Hey Doc, is it me or why every time I R&R the master cylinder fluid caps, the rubber (silicon) gasket weeps, regardless of screw torque and/or alignment. I keep a few in the parts bin so I have a replacement handy if I remove the cover. Have they been made to be disposable? They are only a couple of bucks but you want think you could get multiple uses/seals. BTW - the seal leaked on my clutch cap as well (after rebuilt by H-D - recall). Bike is 16 RGU.
Rear master cylinder is something that I make myself look at because it's so hard to check fluid level! Front right out in open, can't say that for rear!
Love your videos you've taught me a lot over the years and for that I'm grateful :-) 1 silly questions I have a 2016 Roadster and it's my understanding and from my own experience for some reason the back brakes tend to squeak a lot in this model any suggestions question mark your feedback would be appreciated and considered a blessing
Davo T. If the pads were just replaced then they are bedding in, but if not then there maybe something up with the contact between the rotor and the pad. You could always just replace both.
There are many things that can cause squealing- old fluid, pins at break caliper need lubed, pads, disk... too many to tell without seeing it in person. Some break pads are made from metallic material for wet weather that causes squealing. I’d take it in to be checked.
I'm not a big fan of HD so I don't tend to keep up on their latest reiterations. Having known about the Harley problem with rear brakes locking up I wondered if they had effected a change or kept on ignoring it. So now I see they are using DOT 5 for fluid because of its higher boiling point. Simple enough I suppose but now they have a non hygroscopic fluid that will not absorb water which can create a problem in colder climes when those water molecules in suspension accumulate somewhere in the system and freezes solid or just corrodes the hell out of the master cylinder and caliper.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom. Your videos are awesome. I recently installed passenger pegs on my 2020 iron 883 and as you know the master cylinder goes attached to the peg mount. I didn’t open or mess with the cylinder at all except to wiggle it a little to get access to the bolts. Install was fine except for the fact that I did have to push the master cylinder forward by a little bit, maybe 1/8 of an inch to align the holes with the peg mount. Everything seemed to be working fine while riding until the rear brake locked up to the point the bike would not move one inch. Brake lights were solid until the bike cooled down. It would only let me ride about a mile before it would lock up again. My guess is that the issue is between the cylinder and the pedal since the lights were solid, maybe adjusting the screw will fix it. I’m hesitant to ride it to test it as I was extremely lucky to not get hit by a car. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
BrewCityRider yea I agree, think Harley do a lot of this to put the home mechanic off working on his own bike. I mean final drive belt behind primary , no bleed screws in the bottom of fork legs (unless it's an earlier model) to change your fork oil. Some times jobs that should be so easy are a major hassle to do. And I can not afford dealership labour rates.👊👍
Look at the chrome oxidation on that cam chest cover! Also, DOT5 turns brown pretty quickly in my experience. I dont go by the color on DOT5 but the hydroscopic meter and time in the system.
Hi Doc , I have a sportster xl 1200v seventy two 2015 . It’s been sitting for a year or so I start it once maybe twice a week but now all I get is a clicking noise on start up ? . It has been on a trickle charger and battery shows 12.3 volts. Would be grateful of any advice , it has only 718 miles on clock . Keep up the fantastic vids
Not sure the age of your battery, but a Harley battery needs to be 12.6-12.8 at a minimum to start. Starting your bike and not riding it weakens the battery, I’d rather you keep it on a battery tender all the time.
Sounds like it’s time to replace the battery. If you really don’t ride it all that much I would recommend buying a lithium ion battery as they can sit forever without changing.
No Wayne. At this time I would rather have your local dealer rebuild the master cylinder. Brakes are too important for me to explain in detail to keep you safe. Thanks ~ Doc
Hey Mike, i Went back to a DYNA 3 weeks ago, my local Dealer found a LEFTOVER 2014 1/2 FXDL low rider , do you know if the 2014 has the same rear brake adjustment as you just showed on the 99 Dyna ? My Pedal is Too Low when i go to use the rear brakes i have to almost bend my foot parallel with my leg to get any brake action. the bike literally has 1800 miles on it, what i put on in the last 3 weeks..........Help need rear brakes (ps has ABS)
Your spot on Doc, changed my brake fluid three times on the front of my 2000 FXDL, but never done the back. Time to make an effort. Thanks for reminding me. Much love from England.🇬🇧🇬🇧🇺🇸🇺🇸
Subscriber count should be over 100k. Doc always has great informative videos.
Outstanding doc, such a simple process but a critical one.
Thank you Michael…..Doc
Excellent information. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Hey Doc, I wish I was still in my early 60's. Thanks for the info.
Always great tips and as always good to see you thanks again
I imported a 98 sporty to new Zealand a few years back
Previous owner used engine oil in rear master cylinder shit what a good time I had overhauling that mess
Thanks doc love all your vids and thanks for sharing your array of knowledge
Great info Doc! Thanks again!
Great information as always Doc!
Stock exhaust on my 2000 1200XL Sportster makes checking and changing the fluid in the rear master cylinder a pain also.
Had a 15 XG750. The Screw that holds the Shift Lever to the Input of the Trans came loose on mine. Caught it time. When it wasn't shifting right.
Well, I will be doing a brake job today lines, pads, bleed and clean. Thanks for the info doc, love your videos learn so much and save me a lot of money. You know what HD stand for? Hundreds of Dollars. lol
Nice to know! Love all your videos so glad your looking out for us brother!
I appreciate that...Doc
Awesome mate! Cheers. I have a 96 Dyna and I lost rear brakes yesterday, now I reckon I'll be able to fix it (after watching your video). John, Darwin, N.T. Australia
With a Factory Service Manual and the right tools, take your time and do it right. I want you to be safe....Doc
Hi Doc, Great information about neglected parts due to their location. Swing arm attachment points would be a great video. I talk to a lot of DIY'er. When this topic comes up they get that "deer in the head lights look" That death wobble has some very easy to do work around products. They are not expensive, and ANYTHING YOU CAN DO WITHIN YOUR MEANS TO HELP REDUCE OR MITIGATE THIS WILL MAKE YOU RIDE SO MUCH MORE ENJOYABLE. After a couple of hours reading up it, I became very clear about the concerns and the process of the solutions. I am not promoting any products, as many people have produced solutions to help with this issue. Anyone with hand tools and a torque wrench can easy make an positive impact to minimize that problem.
Please add to your passing along info about the corrosive brake line issue going on from the rear caliper all the up to the abs unit and back down to the master cylinder. Those abs units are very reliable when maintained properly. People on youtube show you ways to to withOUT some sort of digital syncroniztion device. I have done that too with great success, however, BRAKES ON BIKES ARE IMPORTANT , as they do not have the reduncy factor that cars and trucks have. YOU NEED brakes to stop and/or not lock up. I bought one for about 170, however, I have seen them lower. It is a lot less money than doing something stupid to your brakes. I also found you can become a hero with your bike riding buddies. Great bar conversation, Definately beats discussing politics.
I have offered your solutions to people over the years. It starts with "Doc Harley did a youtube video about something like this. When your done looking at porn you should check it out.
I know abs on bike is the second best modern invention next to heated grips.
Have a happy 2022 riding season
David wish you lived close by. conversations at the local pub would be interesting. Thanks for sharing....Doc
Great stuff, Doc!
Great tip! That poor dyna has been rode hard and put up wet.
Sir, you have an excellent old school radio voice.
...also, you can make me feel like s**t in a fatherly kind of way : )
Thanks Doc!
Hey Doc, is it me or why every time I R&R the master cylinder fluid caps, the rubber (silicon) gasket weeps, regardless of screw torque and/or alignment. I keep a few in the parts bin so I have a replacement handy if I remove the cover. Have they been made to be disposable? They are only a couple of bucks but you want think you could get multiple uses/seals. BTW - the seal leaked on my clutch cap as well (after rebuilt by H-D - recall). Bike is 16 RGU.
Thank you
Woah! That whole bike has been neglected 😳
One of the best how video's I've seen
Thanks Gary👍……Doc
Thanks man .
Rear master cylinder is something that I make myself look at because it's so hard to check fluid level! Front right out in open, can't say that for rear!
Love your videos you've taught me a lot over the years and for that I'm grateful :-) 1 silly questions I have a 2016 Roadster and it's my understanding and from my own experience for some reason the back brakes tend to squeak a lot in this model any suggestions question mark your feedback would be appreciated and considered a blessing
Davo T. If the pads were just replaced then they are bedding in, but if not then there maybe something up with the contact between the rotor and the pad. You could always just replace both.
There are many things that can cause squealing- old fluid, pins at break caliper need lubed, pads, disk... too many to tell without seeing it in person. Some break pads are made from metallic material for wet weather that causes squealing. I’d take it in to be checked.
The rear brake on my 2014 XL1200X has been screeching since I took it off showroom floor new
I'm not a big fan of HD so I don't tend to keep up on their latest reiterations. Having known about the Harley problem with rear brakes locking up I wondered if they had effected a change or kept on ignoring it. So now I see they are using DOT 5 for fluid because of its higher boiling point. Simple enough I suppose but now they have a non hygroscopic fluid that will not absorb water which can create a problem in colder climes when those water molecules in suspension accumulate somewhere in the system and freezes solid or just corrodes the hell out of the master cylinder and caliper.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom. Your videos are awesome.
I recently installed passenger pegs on my 2020 iron 883 and as you know the master cylinder goes attached to the peg mount. I didn’t open or mess with the cylinder at all except to wiggle it a little to get access to the bolts. Install was fine except for the fact that I did have to push the master cylinder forward by a little bit, maybe 1/8 of an inch to align the holes with the peg mount. Everything seemed to be working fine while riding until the rear brake locked up to the point the bike would not move one inch. Brake lights were solid until the bike cooled down. It would only let me ride about a mile before it would lock up again.
My guess is that the issue is between the cylinder and the pedal since the lights were solid, maybe adjusting the screw will fix it. I’m hesitant to ride it to test it as I was extremely lucky to not get hit by a car.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
When it comes to brakes, take it to your dealer to be sure. I want you to be safe…..Doc
Thanks, Doc!@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson
Good info Doc. Wonder why in the world would Harley have put that master cylinder there ugh!
BrewCityRider yea I agree, think Harley do a lot of this to put the home mechanic off working on his own bike. I mean final drive belt behind primary , no bleed screws in the bottom of fork legs (unless it's an earlier model) to change your fork oil. Some times jobs that should be so easy are a major hassle to do. And I can not afford dealership labour rates.👊👍
Hey doc. Have you considered a video on the 131 kit?
Yes oh yes. Just waiting for a customer to purchase. Thanks ~ Doc
Look at the chrome oxidation on that cam chest cover! Also, DOT5 turns brown pretty quickly in my experience. I dont go by the color on DOT5 but the hydroscopic meter and time in the system.
Hi Doc , I have a sportster xl 1200v seventy two 2015 . It’s been sitting for a year or so I start it once maybe twice a week but now all I get is a clicking noise on start up ? . It has been on a trickle charger and battery shows 12.3 volts. Would be grateful of any advice , it has only 718 miles on clock . Keep up the fantastic vids
Not sure the age of your battery, but a Harley battery needs to be 12.6-12.8 at a minimum to start. Starting your bike and not riding it weakens the battery, I’d rather you keep it on a battery tender all the time.
Sounds like it’s time to replace the battery. If you really don’t ride it all that much I would recommend buying a lithium ion battery as they can sit forever without changing.
The Doc is the best …
Thank you...Doc
Doc can you show how to rebuild the rear master cylinder on a 2004 dyna
No Wayne. At this time I would rather have your local dealer rebuild the master cylinder. Brakes are too important for me to explain in detail to keep you safe. Thanks ~ Doc
I always use a bit of lube on everything. I believe dot 5 is hydrophobic so no need to change as often.
Hey doc was wondering how old are you and how long have u been a Harley Davidson enthusiast?
Shane man I’m in my early 60s, been a Harley-Davidson mechanic for 32 years, enthusiast for over 40
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson thanks doc. Looken good. Enjoy the videos. Keep them coming...
Hey Mike, i Went back to a DYNA 3 weeks ago, my local Dealer found a LEFTOVER 2014 1/2 FXDL low rider , do you know if the 2014 has the same rear brake adjustment as you just showed on the 99 Dyna ? My Pedal is Too Low when i go to use the rear brakes i have to almost bend my foot parallel with my leg to get any brake action. the bike literally has 1800 miles on it, what i put on in the last 3 weeks..........Help need rear brakes (ps has ABS)
When it comes to brakes, take it to your local dealer. Especially with ABS...Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson thanks mike doing it at dealer
Hey Doc can you do one for an Ultra Classic
I would rather you follow your Factory Service Manual....Doc
When should you change brake fluids doc? How many miles
Every 2 years or 10K. Sooner rather than later. When I doubt, change it. Thanks ~ Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson thanks!
👀👂👍
What did they do throw that bike in the ocean
Can't ignore the front,the damn pot metal junk leaks.
That customer didnt take care of that bike period. Good god dude
If it's brown flush it down
1990? Old? I guess my hog would be ancient in his mind.