Engine Rebuild - 3.7L 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo - Part 9
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- In this video we install the heads on the engine. If you live in or around Houston TX, I highly recommend D's Cylinder Head Shop for rebuilding these, or similar, cylinder heads. The owner Terry Marshall is very knowledgeable and does a great job. Their phone number is 713-728-3646. Their address is 63B Palmcrest St, Houston, TX 77085. Tell them that you heard about them here!
Trent - I know this 3.7l engine rebuild video set is old, but just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to video this, along with all of the information you share on each segment. Our son's 2003 Renegade locked up for no reason one day, no problems or sounds leading up. We couldn't find a suitable motor anywhere, so we bought a rebuild kit and I began something I've never done. Searching around for information I came across this video set of yours.. Man, what a life saver... I pulled the motor and began the tear down before I found this, but it has been my 'go to' for everything since. I've got the service manual and all that, but to be able to see someone doing a procedure is invaluable... So, thanks again... Greatly appreciated...
Tony Edgecombe so glad it was useful!
Trey Clanton
trent - How were you able to keep the right side cam lined up? Mine want to bounce forward or backwards from where the V6 at 12 o'clock.. I can get it set under spring pressure, but one little bump and it jumps off the tension again... thanks
Tony Edgecombe Hello. Just get it as close as you can. It might be off by a few degrees, but it will be placed fully in time when you install the timing chain.
ok, should I try to use zip ties to hold it in the correct position under the spring pressure point? or just leave it where it falls either the 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock position instead?
Hey Trent - I've got my engine back in but am struggling to find the transmission vacuum tube location hole on the back of the block or head? Do you remember having to connect a rubber hose from the transmission to the driver side rear of the motor? Thanks
Greatest engine thank you
Hello again Trey. For timing the heads, or should i say the passenger head, i set it up at an angle with a leveler on the intake holes to maintain a precise angle. Then i was able to use a pipe wrench on the old cam gear to get it at a perfect 12:00 position by putting a small leveler on the top two gear teeth. It is relatively easy.
Just thought i would let you know.
I want to say thankyou for sharing this series also. It was invaluable to me in the process of rebuilding my 3.7L. Much more useful than my reference material.
I realize I am kinda off topic but do anyone know of a good place to stream newly released movies online?
@Muhammad Ivan lately I have been using FlixZone. Just google for it :)
You do awesome work, big help and great info. Fixing to rebuild a 3.7.
Great instructional video. It sure did help a rookie like me. Cheers for the good work.
Thank you! You are too kind!
Thank you your videos on this motor has made it a lot easier to follow and helped a lot
Thank You Trey
Make sure the crank is at TDC before semi timing the cams
Bruce Bosco You are correct. If it’s not close to in time when the heads are installed, we can damage things!
Always enjoy your vids...wish you lived in WA so I could have you rebuild my dodge 318! haha It needs to be done soon. Anyways...thanks for the upload...don't use that post-production image stabilizer anymore though...makes me sea-sick! lol
Thanks Man! You know I'd love to help out with that motor. Move a bit closer and let's get that thing rebuilt! Lol
...might almost be cost effective! haha
Is that the same torque specifications on cylinder heads for a Jeep Cherokee or Liberty same thing,2010yr 3.7L
good video "butt' ?????? im doing one now,And your telling us that when you do the reguLR TIMING YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE HEADS OFF TO DO THE TIMING,WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU JUST NEED A TIMING IF YOU GOT TO MAKE SURE ITS ALIG BEFORE YOU TIGTEN YOUR HEAD BOLTS,CAUSE I TOOK A HEAD OFFF A JUNK YARD AND THAT THING SPUN BACK QUICK OUTTA TIME,SO IM KINDA CONFUSE,YOU CANT TIGHTEN THE HEADS BEFOR YOUR CAM IS IN LINE HOW WHAT WOULD WE DO WHEN WERE JUST DOING TIMING...
What if you drop a head bolt down by the side chain..cant see it .?????
Hello Could you please tell me what torque you gave the heads?
why cant you adjust the cam after the head is on when you do the chain then use the vise grips to bring up to 12oclock on the v6 mark?
j ma You can adjust it slightly, but since this engine is an interference engine, you risk hitting a valve against a piston. It can be done, but you must take care. It’s definitely easier to get it close before you bolt the head on. If it’s not in time, you can remove the cam and Rex lock it that way.
@@TreyClanton how do you get it close are you turning the gear itself too light up
@Trey Clanton Hello again. I am rebuilding another one of these engines and had the block re-bored, new crank, pistons, rings, balance shaft, and re-machined heads. Got it all back together and ran perfect. After I added coolant, it developed a knocking sound which to me sounded like a mild rod knock because it sounded like it was in the back of the engine and was most audible from underneath the vehicle. Pulled it back out and removed bottom end parts. All the rods felt as tight as they should be with no play. Any idea what the knock could be? Thanks.
That’s regretful. It can be very frustrating. I’ll throw out some questions just to trigger conversation. Many are stupid questions I know. Have you pulled the valve covers off? These motors are known to pop off a rocker arm even though they looked well seated. I assume there is no water in the oil or oil in the water? You replace the balance shaft bearings? Any odd left over parts? If it’s coming from the rear of the engine, I assume we can eliminate the timing chain system. When the heads were remanufactured, did they peen the valve seats? Let’s start there. Feel free to contact me anytime.
@@TreyClanton Thank you for replying. From what I could see, the rocker arms looked as they should, but I will check more thoroughly. But there was a lot of milky stuff underneath the valve cover. No water in the oil or vice versa. The balance shaft bearings were replaced as well and no left over parts. As for the heads, the only things that was have the deck resurfaced. The thing that worries me is I did see water droplets in the cylinder via camera and there was white smoke when it was running. Do you think the block could be warped?
Milky oil means water in the oil. It could be a lot of things, but it’s most likely head gasket issues or front cover gaskets. Water in the oil will certainly cause drive line noises.
@@TreyClanton Well, thank you very much for your input. You've been a big help to me for rebuilding these 3.7l's. I'll do another teardown and maybe see what's wrong. I will certainly come to you again if I'm having trouble with something. Thank you very much again!
I have another question. Should you be able to move the piston side to side in the cylinder? If so, how much? Thanks.
Flip flops man?! Im surprised you haven't lost a toe! Great video though.
kingpin DN The Chrysler factory manual for cylinder head torquing is shown at the link below.
image.slidesharecdn.com/uovaifvyqqeeil5yoqbe-signature-9e9cd8bd51ae37d042c56b51ed479f8a71b1402d2cd953ecc004e8ac1c15c892-poli-150311125035-conversion-gate01/95/jeep-liberty-2002-2005-engine-37-l-22-638.jpg?cb=1426078428
I think I caught something? Do the Rod bearings run without a pump feed HOLE? Don
Hello Don. The rod bearings are fed oil from a hole in the crank journal, so there is no hole in the bearings. In some cases, there is a groove in the bearing to promote oil movement around the journal, but not in all ceases.
hi there
I have a 4.7 v8 powertech with some starting issues.There is spark and fuel and I have set the timing in the following way:Crank position at TDC markCam positions with V8 marks at 12Is there something I'm missing?Does the fact that the fire happens only once for the two times that nr 1 cylinder is at tdc?
I hope you can help.
Hello. Use the FASTTEC approach. Fuel (fuel pressure should be around 50 psig), air (check intake vacuum), spark, crankshaft timing, camshaft timing, exhaust, and compression. If all of these factors are in place it should run, or at least start. Check for codes after you try to start it. In a recent rebuild I completed, codes during cranking helped guide me to solve a problem.
Hi
Thank you for your response. The crank and camshafts are in position. But how do I go about to check or change the spark timing or that of the exhaust and the compression?
Spark and fuel timing are controlled by the crank and cam position sensors. Assuming those sensors are in place, hooked up, ad functional, spark and fuel timing should be good. Compression is generally your last worry for a rebuild, but you should check it to see that everything is good.. You can get an inexpensive compression tester locally. As for exhaust, you need to confirm that your catalytic converter isn't plugged. The easiest way is to try to start it with the exhaust disconnected.
What gasket set brand did you buy for this engine ??? Thanks ! Or dose anyone know a good set to buy ?? Thanks.
kingpin DN I have used lots of kits from E-Bay onward. I tend to prefer clegengine.com, but I tend to shop around and look at the specific manufacturers for the various parts such as Mahle or Clevite for bearing, Felpro for gaskets, etc. It is all personal choice and your budget for the rebuild.
big help thanks...how much doest cost to rebuild it?
rofix marouane - The total cost was $2000. That included everything. It was beyond normal rebuild costs since I had to replace one of the heads and two of the piston rods.
+rofix marouane I must have missed your comment earlier. This rebuild was $2000 in parts, but with less damage it would have been closer to $1400 in parts. I had to buy a used head, two rods, and a balance shaft for this one!
Trey Clanton Getting ready to pull the engine on my 03 Liberty with tht 3.7. I have it just about ready to pull and I've just found your videos so I'll be spending time watching these for awhile. Thanks for uploading them!! My engine was running great to be honest but had been getting small amounts of coolant in the oil and vice versa. I've heard horror stories about these engines and decided to rebuild it before something bad happened, hopefully. Thanks for all the info I these videos!
Hoping to keep my costs as low as possible and it's an extra vehicle so I'm not stressed for time. I've never done a rebuild though. I definitely want to get the heads to a machine shop. Did you have to do anything to the crank or cam? wondering if i can get away with not having them machined, but I'll find out once i get into it
MMGJ10 I hope it all goes well! These are great engines and well worth the effort to rebuild before they get torn up beyond repair! Holler out if I can lend any support.
Just curious where you got 90 degrees x 2?
Yohann67 After the initial 20 ft-lbs of torque on the main head bolts, you turn them 90 degrees twice without regard for torque. Some references refer to this as torque plus and angle.
Good afternoon. Do you have a shop here in Houston or is this just a hobby
It is just a hobby.
Right when i saw you not lube your bolts time to move on...
That is what I did when I leaned down behind the motor with the head bolts in my hand. I had a container of oil with the lash adjusters/lifters in it. I do wish I had called it out for others watching the video.