Why did you run the stem with negative rise? Wouldn't it have been a better comparison to run it positive rise and then the reach (horizonal) and drop (between saddle and bars) would have been about the same between the two sized bikes? The negative rise stem also shifted even more weight on the front wheel than it would if the bars were in a more comparable position. The negative rise stem seems to have made this a bad comparison and causes the frame size comparison to miss the point.
That is what I didn't understand. He made it even more aggressive by running the negative rise. It gave him way more drop between the seat and bars than on his usual bike.
Exactly. It goes from making it a "semi scientific" test of can you set up a small bike with longer stem/seatpost to make it fit a big rider (and what difference does it make), to instead how easy is it to ride a ridiculously set up bike with a comedy body position. Makes it mildly amusing but ultimately pointless from an information perspective.
Yes, this bike was set up dumb on purpose. You can easily be made to "fit" comfortably on almost every bike. Once you are in you're desired riding position on each bike, then you can actually feel the differences in wheelbase, steering, weight distribution etc. This test is a bit of a non test. It's a "hey I set up my bike stupid" and not really anything to do with the actual frame size.
So I'm 6'3, and I've been using a 54cm frame. I just got a 62cm, and the difference is amazing. Actually fitting your bike does wonders for performance.
I’m also 6’3 but I’ve been riding a 61cm for years. I’ve always had problems with numb hands. Getting back into cycling and doing some research, this may be due to the frame reach being too long. As I understand it, getting too big a frame is a more common and more damaging problem than going too small. Going to extremes doesn’t really help show that. The advice I’ve seen from bike filters is that if you’re not sure which size is right between adjacent sizes, go with the smaller one. And yes, I know you should get a bike fit and not guess. Also, I have tried changing the stem to adjust reach, even using a mountain bike short stem.
@@T00ManyPets I had the same problem on my track bike, which is a 61cm, with the reach being too long. It really depends on the frame manufacturer for which size to go for. I just shortened my stem and got a seatpost with a more relaxed angle, and that fixed the issues I was experiencing.
It would have been interesting to see this with a long stem that didn't have such a steep negative angle. Surely the bike would feel weird no matter what, but that big extra drop didn't help.
Don't understand the point of pitching the handle bars so down low with that stem as I'm sure the hoods are far lower than on his normal bike. Not a fair comparison. Would've been nice to see both bikes side by side to highlight this point.
My son is 6'4".... His saddle is high but it was the right frame.... On one steep decent his centre of gravity was too high, he braked, went over the top, hit a tree and broke his neck. Please, people, get it right when you have choice so it doesn't go wrong when you don't.
Better to have a bike that's slightly too small, than too large, at least then you can fix it with a adjustments to (or swapping out) the stem, handlebar and seat/seat post, if it's too large you can't really do the same
GCN refusing to comment on the ridiculous stem that they used is quite comical. Is it because if it was done properly and they actually matched the smaller bike to Conor’s geometry there would be hardly any difference and he probably would’ve been quicker up the climb on the smaller frame due to weight and aerodynamics?!
Thank you Connor for another look at the tall rider. Standing at 1.98m (6’6”) with a inside leg measurement of 99.5cm. Custom frame was the only option, especially when your arm width is more then your height. Normal riders have it so easy when it comes to selecting frame size. Thankfully there are brilliant custom frame builders here in Australia. I did try it once, (never again) to use a smaller frame. I to noticed how much slower I was. Thanks again for another brilliant insight for the taller rider. Please consider more helpful pointers for us taller riders who just enjoy the world of cycling.
Hey Herbie - have you already considered Canyon? Not sure if they're available in Australia. I'm 198/98cm inseam and went for the Canyon Endurance CF7 in XXL and after 2500km it's still one of the best racers comfortwise - for sure Canyon has more bikes in XXL - but the Endurance was just a bargain. Before I had a Quantec Race SL in 64cm with 180mm Shimano Dura Ace cranks. Hope that helps
Very interesting video. I'm the opposite - my height is 154cm, so I need a very small frame - currently riding on a Liv XS. However, for many years I rode bikes that were too big, partly due to lack of awareness, and being able to get away with it by having what is now termed a step-through frame (used to be just called "Ladies frame"), so there was no cross-bar to crunch on when stopping. So when I researched and found my lovely XS frame, the difference was night and day. I've also had a bike fit, and this with the right size frame makes so much difference to my comfort, speed, endurance. So yeah, the right size frame is soooooo important. Perhaps the team could do a similar video on the effects of riding a bike that's too big? It's an issue that affects small women quite a lot.
I cannot emphasise enough how important a bikefit is for every cyclist! Even though i'm 1,93 I went from a 61 to a 58 because of a bikefit. There is so much gain! Not just in power output, but also in comfort. It's usually not cheap, but it really is an eye-opener!
As someone who's also 1.93, I ride a 60-61cm in most frames. I've tried smaller frames and I always feel like I have a cramped cockpit. This may be because most of my height is in my legs (91cm inseam), with proportionally long arms. As you mention, we definitely should find the frame that fits us best, since bike fit is different for every rider.
Welcome to my world! Iam 6,8 and weigh 300lbs, this body was never ment to ride a bike. I have always had to overcome the restrictions that a man of my size. For example long seat post, longer cranks, tall and wide bars, and of course clothing.
When I purchased a Canyon Ultimate, their size chart recommended me a Large . I had the opportunity to test ride demo bikes and tested a L and XL. They both felt good but decided to go with the XL since it was more comfortable on long ride and felt stable less twitchy on the descents.
I put 2000 miles on a 57cm hybrid bike as someone over 2 meters tall (6'10"). I now ride a 67cm KHS Flite 747 XXL and it's obviously night and day in a lot of respects. Hand numbness was a massive issue on the smaller bike. That said, I made it work, it got me into cycling, and I think some folks make exact bike frame size a bigger deal than it actually is. You can't go much more extreme than I did and I still revolutionized my fitness with the bike. Getting out and riding on whatever you can is the most important thing.
I totally feel this poor lad. 😖 I am 1,78cm and I've been riding an XXL RIDLEY fenix SL since '18. That's due to Ridley's official dealer opinion and my inexperience on riding road bikes at that time. Unfortunately, even though I've contacted the HQ of Ridley's brand after a month of painful riding they denied any help and showed their poor after sales service by pointing to their official dealer of my country. Till now I've done two different bike fittings. At my first one I've changed almost everything, from saddle to bike stem and steering sizes. The second one was a total failure, or should I say a total success, cause the bike fitter advised me at once to buy a new frame, cause it was impossible to get a fit at this size. So I'm still competing with this frame, taking part on brevets (200-300ks) on this frame knowing two things well. Firstly that a body adapts to a certain point and secondly you have to do a bike fitting first and then choose a frame size.
Super video and content again gcn and Connor! I learned so much! I ride a 56-57cm. This shows how chosing the wrong size can make the ride a clownbike experience! Glad you didn't get hurt! A good bikefit is a must! Cheers VéloKröte.
Tall rider (6’6”) here. Now I know what I look like when I try my wife’s (5’4”) bike! I would like to see a comparison of how different crank lengths affect the pedaling efficiency on hills and flats.
6'0" here, and I own road bikes between 56 & 60cm. It's been years since I've ridden my 56cm PX10 that I've had since I was 13, because it's just too small. My next road bike was my 60cm Long Haul Trucker. I wound up putting an 8cm stem on it, and I usually have my hands on the ramps, rather than the hoods. everything since then has been a 58 or a 59 with either a 10 or 11cm stem, and makes a huge difference. At one point, I was given a 52cm frame, and I built it up with a 400mm seatpost and a 14cm stem. I had pretty much the same experience Connor had here. I wound up giving that bike to a friend who's 5'6", and one he put a normal-length stem on, it worked great for him.
Thank you for a very interesting video, Conor. As a 6'5" rider i usually ride a 13-year-old 62cm Trek Road bike but when it comes to finding big frames as I am thinking of upgrading the big frames are hard to find sometimes. There seem to be plenty of small or medium frame bikes around but XLs and XXLs are like hen's teeth, but I know for bike fit it is imperative that I get the right size i.e. XXL or 61/62 even if it means waiting. I could opt for a smaller bike that's readily available but your video puts everything into perspective about why I need to get the right size for my height, thank you. I didn't mention weight though, that throws a whole different spanner in the works as I am 115kgs, but I love cycling!
I'm 194 (6'4") and ride a 60 cm frame. Sometimes I think that it might be a bit too big for me. So probably it's best to try out the size and geometry in bike shop if possible. But yeah, finding proper size frame is difficult for tall person.
This is nonsense, on a smaller bike you need a longer, higher-rise stem to keep the same fit, not a lower rise stem. That is ridiculous. Sorry this video comes from Conor.
I bought a size Small TT bike when I usually ride a Medium. It was super uncomfortable at first but with drastic adjustments like pushkng the seat out and the bull horns outtward my body was able to find a position I can work with. But in the end I sold it and stayed with my medium bike. Correct size is always better.
Hello there! I ride Trek Madone size 56, but my height is 187. According to the trek's size chart I should ride frames with size 60 and handlebars width 44sm, but according to the bikefit results 56 is my size with 42 handlebars. I believe that their charts doesn't represent the real word sizing , like the most charts from other bike manufactories .
Not sure if you are reading and replying these comments Connor but my 1st question is did you also drop down crank length ?? As much as the 2 size frame drop will surely affect you , i have noted the dramatic difference in riding friends bikes if they run shorter cranks. I’m 1.94m ( think thats 6’4 in old money?? ) and dropping below my standard 175mm cranks is a shock and makes me feel like i’m on a kids bike regardless of what size the frame it is.
The frame size numbers can be misleading. Cervelo and Trek recommend I ride a 54 cm frame, Scott recommends a 52 cm frame, and Cannondale recommends a 51 cm frame. My height is 170 cm without shoes, and I aim for a stack of about 55 cm and a reach of about 38 cm.
2,01m tall with an inseam of 98cm - Basso Astra 61cm with 130mm -11 degree stem - Cervélo R3 61cm with 120mm -8 degree stem - Cannondale Supersix (2018) 63cm with 120mm -7 degree stem - Colnago C59 traditional 64cm with 130mm -7 degree stem --- They all do fit perfect for me ❤
199cm here. I had a bike that was too small and cracked the frame where the seat post, the top tube and down tube met because of how little post was in the frame. I'm on a 60cm Focus Atlas now, which has made a big difference.
Although funny, a more serious approach to the question what type of bike in which size suits me best, makes more sense. Especially for the ones that don’t buy a bike every year.
I'm 5' 8'', 63 years old and ride a 54cm Planet X Nanolight Mk 1 using a 110mm -10 deg stem which is slammed. I use a zero setback seatpost giving approx 100mm saddle to bar drop, 170mm cranks and 40 cm handlebar. I have pretty standard limb to body proportions and this setup fits me perfectly, but everyone tries to tell me I should ride a size smaller. I have test ridden smaller frames and experienced bad toe overlap and banging my knees on handlebars when climbing unseated. Just because some pro's ride smaller frames does not mean we all should do it. I find the slightly larger frame is more roomy and more comfortable for me.
I recently went from my usual 58cm bike to a 56cm bike and it did wonders for me. My leg length has pushed me toward the larger size for years but I would always have to run a short stem and push my saddle all the way forward. Now I know what I’ve been missing.
A benefit of running a small frame would be better sprinting/climbing because the top tube is lower, allowing more lean angle, the top tube does not hit the inside of your knees as much on a smaller frame. I have 54cm and 49cm Scott Addict RC Pros both running 165mm cranksets and 90mm cockpits and the 49cm is a nicer felling bike while the 54cm just looks cooler simply because I get to slam the stem all the way down compared to the 30mm of spacers on my 49cm. Saddle setback and reach are with 3mm of each other regardless of the difference in frame size. Same chain stay lengths, same bb drop. Basically identical. I like Connor but he didn’t match the geometries making this video unfortunately invalid.
This was quite revealing! I ride a size 54, and was considering lowering to a 52, but I will have to analyze the geometry more of my target new bike to see how it is. Great video!
I'm 6'5" with a 38"+ inseam, a 6'9" wingspan, and currently weigh over 105kg. I've ridden Giant TCR frames for years, but their recent change to make the XL frame now have the seat tube the same length as an old large, taking away the little extra frame above the seat tube/top tube joint, and using a Giant specific seat post has made their XLs no long useable for me. Bought a frame in 2020 and went through 5 seat posts cracking due to being too short for my size. The Giant website states the frame can fit up to 6'6", but that's not true. In the end Giant warranty department just gave me a frame with an integrated seat post. And that frame barely fits. I didn't have to cut down the mast and I added spacers. This showed the importance of the minimum insertion line on seat posts and how making things lighter, stiffer, and more aero don't always work out well for customers.
Conner flip your stem over it would have made it better. Also could have slid the seat back a little it looks like or use a set back seat post. Still would have sucked but not as much.
When u see his own bike is 2 size up, and has some spacers and a stem with -6° or something angle, so still rise, with the forktube angle. Then he puts a -17° stem, with no spacers on smaller bike, to have some unmanagable saddle to handlebar drop, u probably just stop wasting ur time. Its not the size the main problem here, with such stem and no spacers, his own bike would be strange and off balance too.
Another great video Conner, I now know I can at least drop 1 size depending on the frame. On a comedy side it reminded me of Krusty the clown riding the the tiny bike on the Simpsons 😂😂
Curious to know why such a dropped stem? I understand the length, but to test this would you not attempt to have the handlebars close (as possible) to your normal position? (You are doing that with your saddle height)
I have a 58 and I'm 75 inches tall, I changed the stem to the smallest on the market and the straight seatpost with the seat placed forward, it's not bad for me but it helped me with physical exercises to strengthen my back, it's not what I should have according to manuals but soon I will change to a 56 and I hope it will be better
Those sunglasses. On the back of the start, then on your face, then at the end of the climb, completely gone! The second run its a magic chest mounted go pro :P Ive always sat between sizing which is a little annoying, but had a great bike fit and know what works for me now.
Funny coincidence, I just took my new bike for first ride. Old bike was a size Small with 140mm stem, new is a Large frame and it’s a world of difference. Much more stable sprinting/climbing out the saddle and I can now hold the standard aero position for much longer.
6'5", 82kg, riding an XL Ridley Fenix, with 100mm stem, 180mm Dura-ace chainset. Best bike I've owned. Very comfortable, fast and perfect handling. (405mm reach, 625mm stack). What is Conor's preferred crank length? I've a 94cm inseam (37"), and ride 180mm cranks.
I'm a little shorter than I used to be, 71.5 inches from 72. The right size frame for me varies from 53 to 56cm (or Md to Lg) because frame designers don't always use the same methodology for measuring up a frame or building a frame. My most recent bike is sold in sizes for a rider height of 69-71 inches or 72-74 inches with other body dimensions commensurate with typical human anatomy. Being in the middle of the majority of those sets of numbers, I chose the smaller of the two, and it's ideal. When in doubt or in between sizes, go down.
Man, I am the same height as you and when I rode one of my bikes that I loaned to a friend the previous year, I forgot to set up the frame to my numbers, I rode the fame Sea Gull Century, Ispent the next 60 miles trying to get the frame dial in. The best photographers could not hide the pain on my face. And I'm talking just a few inches on the correct frame size!
I actually did the opposite when I bought my last bike. I went from a small to a medium as I like how it stretches me out more on the bike, allowing me to get a bit more aero.
I would like to see a video about less obvious cases for tall people. For example, what is more or less comfortable range of frame sizes (cm), you may fit in. Letter system very often may be too misleading. Sometimes it's just too difficult to justify, for example, retro bikes have a different geometries, compare to new ones, but on the other hand, they allow you to change stack height, while in newer bikes you may need to change fork to adjust it.
Everyone is different - their mobility, mody strength and power output will all contribute to the positions that they can comfortably adapt to. And while height is a good starting point for choosing frame size (obviously someone who is 195cm tall will never fit on M or L size bike, no matter what), it's not the only variable. People have different proportions - legs, torso and hand length and their ratios will change your bike fit dramatically. That's why it's hard to say what's even more or less comfortable for someone (except the ridiculous example of 195cm person obviously not fitting an M size frame). There are two main geometry numbers that you should care about when choosing a bike frame - stack and reach. All other parameters will affect the feel and handling of the bike, but won't affect the fit. So even though a retro bike will have their numbers all over the place compared to modern bikes, you can still calculate their stack and reach. Now, the biggest problem is knowing what stack and reach are good for you. There are no easy, generic answers here. That's especially complicated if you are buying your first road bike. Once you are roughly used to the position on a road bike and know what your reach and stack are - it's much easier to compare the numbers to another bike/frame. I've made this mistake myself when buying my first serious (expensive) road bike 3 years ago. I didn't know my reach and stack numbers at all. I checked the manufacturer height recommendations (was spot on the upper value of the range) and checked what size of this bike the pros ride. This was a huge mistake - I'm not as strong and flexible as pros are, the stack was too low for me. I ended up having to change the stem to a positive 6 degrees (in addition to having 40mm of spacers under the stem), which looks stupid on a race bike. Fast forward to today - I calculated all my numbers and, knowing which numbers I can tolerate, I built a bike that's finally properly fitted to me. Knowing the (effective) stack and reach I could choose every single component around that, down to choosing handlebars with the correct reach.
@@mateuszhajdziony4861 How did you calculated it? Can you please share a link to method? Indeed, that's why I suggested to create more or less clear guidelines. I have also sold my first road bike. I am more happy now, but still fill that my fit is not ideal. On most videos, regarding bike fit, cyclist mostly operate through extremes. Also, compare to hybrid there is much more details that affect ride quality. I am also quite tall (197), but my hybrid was 55 cm and only recently I have decided to sell it (of course, it was extended to the max).
@@Vasylian1 Well, stack and reach are numbers that you can find on the geometry charts of any bike on the manufacturer's website :) Also a visit to bike fitting studio would be a good idea. For example if you feel that there's too much pressure on your hands and you have already expended the ability to move your saddle position back (up to a point that it doesn't negatively impact the relationship between your saddle and cranks) - this usually means that your effective stack is too low. Or if, everything else being equal (saddle position is where it should be), and you still find yourself not actually keeping your hands on the hoods but rather having them 2 or 3cm back - this means that your reach is too long. These are just examples that a bike fitter would deal with. I've been watching a shit ton of bike fitting videos on YT and have a pretty solid idea how to fit a bike, for myself at least. Also was able to give some advice to my friends and alleviate issues that they were having with their bikes. It's a complex topic, though, so if you already have some experience riding a road bike and you're still experiencing issues - visiting a bike fitter would be your best (and fastest) bet.
@@Vasylian1 so in my example, I knew that my I had my fit dialled in on my old bike, although I would prefer the stack to be a tad larger for full comfort. While I could do entire day rides on that bike, after few hours I would still get some pain in my wrists. Mind you that I had to have 40mm of spacers under the stem and had the stem on +6 degrees on that frame. So I've taken the reach and stack measurements from the manufacturer's website, added the amount of spacers that I was using, added in 19mm for the positive stem angle and another 5mm because I had my handlebars angled upwards a bit. And then I compared these numbers to various bike frames that I liked. Turned out that Cervelo Caledonia is size 56 was a perfect fit - using Roval Alpinist cockpit in 100mm length and -6 degree with 25mm of spacers underneath would still put my effective hood position roughly 20mm higher than on the old bike. Which is perfect remembering that I only needed a tad bit more stack to alleviate my wrist issues on longer rides. I can now also more comfortably reach the drops and find myself actually riding in drops much more than I would on the old bike. Plus the bike looks super neat with every component in its place, not that 40mm of spacers and +6 deg stem frankenstein that I had previously on too small Bianchi Oltre bike.
One think I don't think was mentioned was the shorter wheelbase would likely cause your foot to touch the front wheel when turning sharply. Also due to the higher seat post length in relation to the frame, you wouldn't be able to get your fore and aft saddle position correct which means you'd be sat too far back in relation to the BB (so your knee won't be in a good position). I think everyone noticed the stem issue being far too low 😄 but presumably all for a laugh.
Conor... at your height what's the most important frame dimension that you have to have? I'm 6'3" and can't ride anything less than a 60cm tt and love a 70 degree st angle. Plus a 130mm stem.
Being 6’9” (206 cm), I will watch anything where Conor talks about the struggles of being a tall cyclist. It’s super difficult finding bikes that fit here in the US and I’m sure anywhere else so any suggestions he has for finding bikes and navigating being a very tall rider, I’m all ears for.
I’m 6’6” and have gotten away with a 62” Specialized Allez with seat post at max, and a XL Canyon Grail. If you’re 6’9”, you might try the 64” Trek (I.e. the Emonda comes in that size. (I also wear a IRL stripe jersey and will watch anything with Conor)😂
Why not just ride a small bike rather than being absurd and putting that stem on it and rendering the video totally useless. Most people ride bikes that are too big.
Never raise a seatpost past the max limit. I used a 27.2 mountain bike seatpost on one of my bikes to get the fit right. Normally, I use a 59x59cm frame, with a 13 or 14cm flat stem. One of my frames came with a longer top tube, so I was able to use a 55 cm seat tube with a mountain bike seatpost. You've got way too much saddle to bar drop. It's going to really screw up your feeling on the bike. I usually run with about 4" of bar drop. (10 cm)
I have a 2010 Cube Agree. I'm 6'1" and I bought a 58cm frame. Its always felt a little on the small side. I've since been told that Cube frames tend to come up a size small, and I can well believe that.
I have very tall legs and got a rather bad static ‘bikefit’ and later had to mount a 60 mm stem to land on the hoods with my hands. The steering however is not compromized at all and I have a good aero position. So don’t be afraid to mount a 60 mm stem stem if that fits you better.
PLEASE don't fool around with readers. Your XXL frameset is IMPOSSIBLE to mount your bars THE SAME CLOSE to your wheel/tyre. Every bike fitter may from the first glance saying "WTF".
I'm kind of lucky. I am 6'2" (188 cm), so I fall right between two sizes on most bikes. I typically ride a 58, but easily get away with a 60 without any compromises. I am at the high end for most 58's and the low end for most 60's.
@@gcn The XXL has a reach/Stack of 409/626mm. The L reach/Stack is -14/-44mm compared the XXL. (These are frame geometries). You guys messed up bigtime here.
What size bike do you ride?
I ride a size 54 when I'm supposed to ride a 52
@@markfernandes9627 have you adapted the bike to fit better?
What Happens When A Tall Cyclist Rides A Small Bike? ... Comedy, right?
Large
@@mrscreamer379 We think so 😂
Why did you run the stem with negative rise? Wouldn't it have been a better comparison to run it positive rise and then the reach (horizonal) and drop (between saddle and bars) would have been about the same between the two sized bikes? The negative rise stem also shifted even more weight on the front wheel than it would if the bars were in a more comparable position. The negative rise stem seems to have made this a bad comparison and causes the frame size comparison to miss the point.
That is what I didn't understand. He made it even more aggressive by running the negative rise. It gave him way more drop between the seat and bars than on his usual bike.
That’s what I was thinking, I run a smaller frame with a big stem, but not a stupid angle like that.
No, because the negative rise increases reach even further
@@DaveCM I thought he was trying to aim himself at the pavement aggressively!
When I saw that stem, I thought it was upside down, but then thought there must be a reason.
Having a negative drop on the stem was ridiculous.
For sure wtf would you such a negative stem and no spacers to mess up the experiment 😂😂😂
Exactly. It goes from making it a "semi scientific" test of can you set up a small bike with longer stem/seatpost to make it fit a big rider (and what difference does it make), to instead how easy is it to ride a ridiculously set up bike with a comedy body position. Makes it mildly amusing but ultimately pointless from an information perspective.
A negative stem reduces your reach, all it does is increase your upper body angle to put your hip into an abnormal position.
Exactly, this experiment was a total fail, ridiculous!!!
Why the IDmatch fitting machine doesn’t fit you on the hood?
Why not flip the stem and get rid of the ridiculous saddle to bar drop? Seems like it would be way more rideable.
Yes, this bike was set up dumb on purpose. You can easily be made to "fit" comfortably on almost every bike. Once you are in you're desired riding position on each bike, then you can actually feel the differences in wheelbase, steering, weight distribution etc. This test is a bit of a non test. It's a "hey I set up my bike stupid" and not really anything to do with the actual frame size.
Good point!
Clearly says it was taken to the extreme for purpose of video…
@@skulluxe1 Yeah, but a ludicrous extreme so the comparison was rather meaningless.
@@stevemawer848 Exactly. It lost any purpose because this is not how people "size down" on bikes.
So I'm 6'3, and I've been using a 54cm frame. I just got a 62cm, and the difference is amazing. Actually fitting your bike does wonders for performance.
These things really make a difference 🙌
I’m also 6’3 but I’ve been riding a 61cm for years. I’ve always had problems with numb hands. Getting back into cycling and doing some research, this may be due to the frame reach being too long. As I understand it, getting too big a frame is a more common and more damaging problem than going too small. Going to extremes doesn’t really help show that. The advice I’ve seen from bike filters is that if you’re not sure which size is right between adjacent sizes, go with the smaller one.
And yes, I know you should get a bike fit and not guess. Also, I have tried changing the stem to adjust reach, even using a mountain bike short stem.
@@T00ManyPets I had the same problem on my track bike, which is a 61cm, with the reach being too long. It really depends on the frame manufacturer for which size to go for. I just shortened my stem and got a seatpost with a more relaxed angle, and that fixed the issues I was experiencing.
5'7 and run a 55cm. It's been great so far.
I’m a little under 6’2” and I ride a 58. Had a 60 some years back but it felt too big. Much prefer the 58.
It would have been interesting to see this with a long stem that didn't have such a steep negative angle. Surely the bike would feel weird no matter what, but that big extra drop didn't help.
Don't understand the point of pitching the handle bars so down low with that stem as I'm sure the hoods are far lower than on his normal bike. Not a fair comparison. Would've been nice to see both bikes side by side to highlight this point.
Yeah, this makes no sense. Look at the bar level in relation to the tire. That stem should've been flipped for a fair comparison.
Thinking the same thing. Why not just match the contact points. Perhaps they didn't think i through, or just found any old crap lying around.
He used that stem because the cockpit length was too short with a “level” stem, and nobody makes a longer threadless stem than that one.
@@prestachuck2867 thanks
My son is 6'4".... His saddle is high but it was the right frame.... On one steep decent his centre of gravity was too high, he braked, went over the top, hit a tree and broke his neck. Please, people, get it right when you have choice so it doesn't go wrong when you don't.
Better to have a bike that's slightly too small, than too large, at least then you can fix it with a adjustments to (or swapping out) the stem, handlebar and seat/seat post, if it's too large you can't really do the same
GCN refusing to comment on the ridiculous stem that they used is quite comical. Is it because if it was done properly and they actually matched the smaller bike to Conor’s geometry there would be hardly any difference and he probably would’ve been quicker up the climb on the smaller frame due to weight and aerodynamics?!
Thank you Connor for another look at the tall rider. Standing at 1.98m (6’6”) with a inside leg measurement of 99.5cm. Custom frame was the only option, especially when your arm width is more then your height. Normal riders have it so easy when it comes to selecting frame size. Thankfully there are brilliant custom frame builders here in Australia. I did try it once, (never again) to use a smaller frame. I to noticed how much slower I was. Thanks again for another brilliant insight for the taller rider. Please consider more helpful pointers for us taller riders who just enjoy the world of cycling.
KHS Flite 747 is 66cm and has 200mm crank arms...stock
Hey Herbie - have you already considered Canyon? Not sure if they're available in Australia. I'm 198/98cm inseam and went for the Canyon Endurance CF7 in XXL and after 2500km it's still one of the best racers comfortwise - for sure Canyon has more bikes in XXL - but the Endurance was just a bargain. Before I had a Quantec Race SL in 64cm with 180mm Shimano Dura Ace cranks. Hope that helps
Very interesting video. I'm the opposite - my height is 154cm, so I need a very small frame - currently riding on a Liv XS. However, for many years I rode bikes that were too big, partly due to lack of awareness, and being able to get away with it by having what is now termed a step-through frame (used to be just called "Ladies frame"), so there was no cross-bar to crunch on when stopping. So when I researched and found my lovely XS frame, the difference was night and day. I've also had a bike fit, and this with the right size frame makes so much difference to my comfort, speed, endurance. So yeah, the right size frame is soooooo important. Perhaps the team could do a similar video on the effects of riding a bike that's too big? It's an issue that affects small women quite a lot.
Conor on that bike looks like the real life version of Akira Midosuji from Yowamushi Pedal!
Hahaha He'll be chuffed 😂
I cannot emphasise enough how important a bikefit is for every cyclist! Even though i'm 1,93 I went from a 61 to a 58 because of a bikefit. There is so much gain! Not just in power output, but also in comfort. It's usually not cheap, but it really is an eye-opener!
As someone who's also 1.93, I ride a 60-61cm in most frames. I've tried smaller frames and I always feel like I have a cramped cockpit. This may be because most of my height is in my legs (91cm inseam), with proportionally long arms. As you mention, we definitely should find the frame that fits us best, since bike fit is different for every rider.
@@crbondur, your last sentence says it all. My inside leg is also 90cm, but the dimensions of the upper body and arms are a bit odd. Hence the 58.
Welcome to my world!
Iam 6,8 and weigh 300lbs, this body was never ment to ride a bike.
I have always had to overcome the restrictions that a man of my size.
For example long seat post, longer cranks, tall and wide bars, and of course clothing.
Rumor has it that Hank was supposed to be doing this vid, but they couldn’t find a bike two sizes smaller.
When I purchased a Canyon Ultimate, their size chart recommended me a Large . I had the opportunity to test ride demo bikes and tested a L and XL. They both felt good but decided to go with the XL since it was more comfortable on long ride and felt stable less twitchy on the descents.
Did the exact opposite thing on my 2023 Ultimate. ordered size m instead of l
Made the decision after I’d tested both in Koblenz
I made this call on a Specialized mtb and regretted it and sold it. Same strokes
Ah! It's the bike from the "Casually Explained : Cycling" video!
Conor looking like Midousuji from Yowamushi Pedal with that frame size 🤣
Thanks Conor and crew ...you crazy , man ! Mind the blisters .
The end of video chat with Connor sitting on the tree trunk just made me realise that I havent seen my garden gnome for about 6 weeks 🤣🤣
Mow your lawn.
Funny video. I'm still with 'bike fit James', most people are riding frames that are too big for them.
I put 2000 miles on a 57cm hybrid bike as someone over 2 meters tall (6'10"). I now ride a 67cm KHS Flite 747 XXL and it's obviously night and day in a lot of respects. Hand numbness was a massive issue on the smaller bike.
That said, I made it work, it got me into cycling, and I think some folks make exact bike frame size a bigger deal than it actually is. You can't go much more extreme than I did and I still revolutionized my fitness with the bike. Getting out and riding on whatever you can is the most important thing.
That stem perfectly symbolizes my relationship with my ex-wife.
I totally feel this poor lad. 😖
I am 1,78cm and I've been riding an XXL RIDLEY fenix SL since '18. That's due to Ridley's official dealer opinion and my inexperience on riding road bikes at that time. Unfortunately, even though I've contacted the HQ of Ridley's brand after a month of painful riding they denied any help and showed their poor after sales service by pointing to their official dealer of my country.
Till now I've done two different bike fittings. At my first one I've changed almost everything, from saddle to bike stem and steering sizes. The second one was a total failure, or should I say a total success, cause the bike fitter advised me at once to buy a new frame, cause it was impossible to get a fit at this size. So I'm still competing with this frame, taking part on brevets (200-300ks) on this frame knowing two things well. Firstly that a body adapts to a certain point and secondly you have to do a bike fitting first and then choose a frame size.
Super video and content again gcn and Connor! I learned so much! I ride a 56-57cm. This shows how chosing the wrong size can make the ride a clownbike experience! Glad you didn't get hurt! A good bikefit is a must! Cheers VéloKröte.
The bike looks like the drawing from casually explained cycling video
Tall rider (6’6”) here. Now I know what I look like when I try my wife’s (5’4”) bike! I would like to see a comparison of how different crank lengths affect the pedaling efficiency on hills and flats.
I don't know the math very well but I've always tried to get at least a 175mm crank, have had a few bikes with 177.5 and 180's and I loved them.
6'0" here, and I own road bikes between 56 & 60cm. It's been years since I've ridden my 56cm PX10 that I've had since I was 13, because it's just too small. My next road bike was my 60cm Long Haul Trucker. I wound up putting an 8cm stem on it, and I usually have my hands on the ramps, rather than the hoods. everything since then has been a 58 or a 59 with either a 10 or 11cm stem, and makes a huge difference. At one point, I was given a 52cm frame, and I built it up with a 400mm seatpost and a 14cm stem. I had pretty much the same experience Connor had here. I wound up giving that bike to a friend who's 5'6", and one he put a normal-length stem on, it worked great for him.
Thank you for a very interesting video, Conor. As a 6'5" rider i usually ride a 13-year-old 62cm Trek Road bike but when it comes to finding big frames as I am thinking of upgrading the big frames are hard to find sometimes. There seem to be plenty of small or medium frame bikes around but XLs and XXLs are like hen's teeth, but I know for bike fit it is imperative that I get the right size i.e. XXL or 61/62 even if it means waiting. I could opt for a smaller bike that's readily available but your video puts everything into perspective about why I need to get the right size for my height, thank you. I didn't mention weight though, that throws a whole different spanner in the works as I am 115kgs, but I love cycling!
I'm 194 (6'4") and ride a 60 cm frame. Sometimes I think that it might be a bit too big for me. So probably it's best to try out the size and geometry in bike shop if possible. But yeah, finding proper size frame is difficult for tall person.
Midousuji Akira of Kyoto Fushimi High Cycling Club pro bike check courtesy of GCN 🤣
This is nonsense, on a smaller bike you need a longer, higher-rise stem to keep the same fit, not a lower rise stem. That is ridiculous. Sorry this video comes from Conor.
I bought a size Small TT bike when I usually ride a Medium. It was super uncomfortable at first but with drastic adjustments like pushkng the seat out and the bull horns outtward my body was able to find a position I can work with. But in the end I sold it and stayed with my medium bike. Correct size is always better.
I don't watch tv but this cycling channel is fun - you may know it
Hello there! I ride Trek Madone size 56, but my height is 187. According to the trek's size chart I should ride frames with size 60 and handlebars width 44sm, but according to the bikefit results 56 is my size with 42 handlebars. I believe that their charts doesn't represent the real word sizing , like the most charts from other bike manufactories .
Not sure if you are reading and replying these comments Connor but my 1st question is did you also drop down crank length ?? As much as the 2 size frame drop will surely affect you , i have noted the dramatic difference in riding friends bikes if they run shorter cranks.
I’m 1.94m ( think thats 6’4 in old money?? ) and dropping below my standard 175mm cranks is a shock and makes me feel like i’m on a kids bike regardless of what size the frame it is.
The frame size numbers can be misleading. Cervelo and Trek recommend I ride a 54 cm frame, Scott recommends a 52 cm frame, and Cannondale recommends a 51 cm frame. My height is 170 cm without shoes, and I aim for a stack of about 55 cm and a reach of about 38 cm.
I like that you keep calling it a small bike and it’s still a size large, I wouldn’t be able to stand over the top tube. Come ride my xxs bike next!
2,01m tall with an inseam of 98cm
- Basso Astra 61cm with 130mm -11 degree stem
- Cervélo R3 61cm with 120mm -8 degree stem
- Cannondale Supersix (2018) 63cm with 120mm -7 degree stem
- Colnago C59 traditional 64cm with 130mm -7 degree stem
---
They all do fit perfect for me ❤
199cm here. I had a bike that was too small and cracked the frame where the seat post, the top tube and down tube met because of how little post was in the frame. I'm on a 60cm Focus Atlas now, which has made a big difference.
Although funny, a more serious approach to the question what type of bike in which size suits me best, makes more sense. Especially for the ones that don’t buy a bike every year.
I'm 5' 8'', 63 years old and ride a 54cm Planet X Nanolight Mk 1 using a 110mm -10 deg stem which is slammed. I use a zero setback seatpost giving approx 100mm saddle to bar drop, 170mm cranks and 40 cm handlebar. I have pretty standard limb to body proportions and this setup fits me perfectly, but everyone tries to tell me I should ride a size smaller.
I have test ridden smaller frames and experienced bad toe overlap and banging my knees on handlebars when climbing unseated. Just because some pro's ride smaller frames does not mean we all should do it. I find the slightly larger frame is more roomy and more comfortable for me.
I recently went from my usual 58cm bike to a 56cm bike and it did wonders for me. My leg length has pushed me toward the larger size for years but I would always have to run a short stem and push my saddle all the way forward. Now I know what I’ve been missing.
The Large bike would have been a Super Nice if you would have used a GCN ShadowStand. LOL
I was going to ask what about riding a frame 2x larger…but remembered it’s Conor. Also, it’s Friday and my brain stopped working two days ago.
A benefit of running a small frame would be better sprinting/climbing because the top tube is lower, allowing more lean angle, the top tube does not hit the inside of your knees as much on a smaller frame. I have 54cm and 49cm Scott Addict RC Pros both running 165mm cranksets and 90mm cockpits and the 49cm is a nicer felling bike while the 54cm just looks cooler simply because I get to slam the stem all the way down compared to the 30mm of spacers on my 49cm. Saddle setback and reach are with 3mm of each other regardless of the difference in frame size. Same chain stay lengths, same bb drop. Basically identical. I like Connor but he didn’t match the geometries making this video unfortunately invalid.
how tall are you
He went full Midousuji!
This was quite revealing! I ride a size 54, and was considering lowering to a 52, but I will have to analyze the geometry more of my target new bike to see how it is. Great video!
Loving the GCN shadow stand 😍
Have you got your own? If not, they're on sale in the GCN Shop 👉 shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com/gcn-shadowstand-original
I bet the motorist that was behind you thought you were filming something like comical `Carry on cycling' a stereogtypical arse wobbling on the seat😄😄
Now it’s time for Hank to have an episode with him on a bike 3 sizes larger than what he would normally ride. 😂😂😂
We did have a video a little while back where Manon rode Conor's XXL bike! 👉 ua-cam.com/video/FN9AC7ALIZY/v-deo.html
Ah yes, Connor is channelling his inner Midousuji
I'm 6'5" with a 38"+ inseam, a 6'9" wingspan, and currently weigh over 105kg. I've ridden Giant TCR frames for years, but their recent change to make the XL frame now have the seat tube the same length as an old large, taking away the little extra frame above the seat tube/top tube joint, and using a Giant specific seat post has made their XLs no long useable for me. Bought a frame in 2020 and went through 5 seat posts cracking due to being too short for my size. The Giant website states the frame can fit up to 6'6", but that's not true. In the end Giant warranty department just gave me a frame with an integrated seat post. And that frame barely fits. I didn't have to cut down the mast and I added spacers.
This showed the importance of the minimum insertion line on seat posts and how making things lighter, stiffer, and more aero don't always work out well for customers.
Conner flip your stem over it would have made it better. Also could have slid the seat back a little it looks like or use a set back seat post. Still would have sucked but not as much.
When u see his own bike is 2 size up, and has some spacers and a stem with -6° or something angle, so still rise, with the forktube angle. Then he puts a -17° stem, with no spacers on smaller bike, to have some unmanagable saddle to handlebar drop, u probably just stop wasting ur time. Its not the size the main problem here, with such stem and no spacers, his own bike would be strange and off balance too.
Another great video Conner, I now know I can at least drop 1 size depending on the frame. On a comedy side it reminded me of Krusty the clown riding the the tiny bike on the Simpsons 😂😂
Good stuff! thanks for watching 🙌
Curious to know why such a dropped stem? I understand the length, but to test this would you not attempt to have the handlebars close (as possible) to your normal position? (You are doing that with your saddle height)
I have a 58 and I'm 75 inches tall, I changed the stem to the smallest on the market and the straight seatpost with the seat placed forward, it's not bad for me but it helped me with physical exercises to strengthen my back, it's not what I should have according to manuals but soon I will change to a 56 and I hope it will be better
I actually think it looks extremely cool 😀
Its certainly long and low... 🤔
My back, hands and neck say otherwise!!
Those sunglasses. On the back of the start, then on your face, then at the end of the climb, completely gone! The second run its a magic chest mounted go pro :P Ive always sat between sizing which is a little annoying, but had a great bike fit and know what works for me now.
Is that the new GCN Shadowstand2.0 I spy propping the frames up? Very nice Very Nice!
... when do they go live in the shop? Take muh munny!
Love the looks of the SUPER slammed bars lol.. looks wicked
Funny coincidence, I just took my new bike for first ride. Old bike was a size Small with 140mm stem, new is a Large frame and it’s a world of difference.
Much more stable sprinting/climbing out the saddle and I can now hold the standard aero position for much longer.
Great stuff Lion, Hope it means you love riding even more 😍
6'5", 82kg, riding an XL Ridley Fenix, with 100mm stem, 180mm Dura-ace chainset. Best bike I've owned. Very comfortable, fast and perfect handling. (405mm reach, 625mm stack). What is Conor's preferred crank length? I've a 94cm inseam (37"), and ride 180mm cranks.
I'm a little shorter than I used to be, 71.5 inches from 72. The right size frame for me varies from 53 to 56cm (or Md to Lg) because frame designers don't always use the same methodology for measuring up a frame or building a frame. My most recent bike is sold in sizes for a rider height of 69-71 inches or 72-74 inches with other body dimensions commensurate with typical human anatomy. Being in the middle of the majority of those sets of numbers, I chose the smaller of the two, and it's ideal. When in doubt or in between sizes, go down.
Connor on the small bike looks ridiculous and reminds me of Midousuzi from the cycling anime Yowamushi Pedal.
first word that came to mind after reading the thumbnail was “hell”
What was the point of installing the stem upside down? That negated the entire point of the video.
Man, I am the same height as you and when I rode one of my bikes that I loaned to a friend the previous year, I forgot to set up the frame to my numbers, I rode the fame Sea Gull Century, Ispent the next 60 miles trying to get the frame dial in. The best photographers could not hide the pain on my face. And I'm talking just a few inches on the correct frame size!
What about doing a very short rider with an XXL frame next? Or have a break until you can come up with some better topics?
Imagine showing up at your local club ride with that slammed stem 😂.
I actually did the opposite when I bought my last bike. I went from a small to a medium as I like how it stretches me out more on the bike, allowing me to get a bit more aero.
Most people fit on a couple of sizes, it all comes down to ride style and flexibility 🤔 Sounds like you've got it sorted!
Headtube length is a much overlooked aspect of modern frame design. Shoppers ask about the seattube length, but never the headtube.
@@prestachuck2867 and reach.
That long seatpost will exaggerate the rearward torque application at the frame junction and will accelerate the inevitable frame failure.
I would like to see a video about less obvious cases for tall people. For example, what is more or less comfortable range of frame sizes (cm), you may fit in. Letter system very often may be too misleading. Sometimes it's just too difficult to justify, for example, retro bikes have a different geometries, compare to new ones, but on the other hand, they allow you to change stack height, while in newer bikes you may need to change fork to adjust it.
Everyone is different - their mobility, mody strength and power output will all contribute to the positions that they can comfortably adapt to. And while height is a good starting point for choosing frame size (obviously someone who is 195cm tall will never fit on M or L size bike, no matter what), it's not the only variable. People have different proportions - legs, torso and hand length and their ratios will change your bike fit dramatically. That's why it's hard to say what's even more or less comfortable for someone (except the ridiculous example of 195cm person obviously not fitting an M size frame).
There are two main geometry numbers that you should care about when choosing a bike frame - stack and reach. All other parameters will affect the feel and handling of the bike, but won't affect the fit. So even though a retro bike will have their numbers all over the place compared to modern bikes, you can still calculate their stack and reach.
Now, the biggest problem is knowing what stack and reach are good for you. There are no easy, generic answers here. That's especially complicated if you are buying your first road bike. Once you are roughly used to the position on a road bike and know what your reach and stack are - it's much easier to compare the numbers to another bike/frame. I've made this mistake myself when buying my first serious (expensive) road bike 3 years ago. I didn't know my reach and stack numbers at all. I checked the manufacturer height recommendations (was spot on the upper value of the range) and checked what size of this bike the pros ride. This was a huge mistake - I'm not as strong and flexible as pros are, the stack was too low for me. I ended up having to change the stem to a positive 6 degrees (in addition to having 40mm of spacers under the stem), which looks stupid on a race bike. Fast forward to today - I calculated all my numbers and, knowing which numbers I can tolerate, I built a bike that's finally properly fitted to me. Knowing the (effective) stack and reach I could choose every single component around that, down to choosing handlebars with the correct reach.
@@mateuszhajdziony4861 How did you calculated it? Can you please share a link to method?
Indeed, that's why I suggested to create more or less clear guidelines. I have also sold my first road bike. I am more happy now, but still fill that my fit is not ideal. On most videos, regarding bike fit, cyclist mostly operate through extremes. Also, compare to hybrid there is much more details that affect ride quality. I am also quite tall (197), but my hybrid was 55 cm and only recently I have decided to sell it (of course, it was extended to the max).
@@Vasylian1 Well, stack and reach are numbers that you can find on the geometry charts of any bike on the manufacturer's website :) Also a visit to bike fitting studio would be a good idea. For example if you feel that there's too much pressure on your hands and you have already expended the ability to move your saddle position back (up to a point that it doesn't negatively impact the relationship between your saddle and cranks) - this usually means that your effective stack is too low. Or if, everything else being equal (saddle position is where it should be), and you still find yourself not actually keeping your hands on the hoods but rather having them 2 or 3cm back - this means that your reach is too long. These are just examples that a bike fitter would deal with. I've been watching a shit ton of bike fitting videos on YT and have a pretty solid idea how to fit a bike, for myself at least. Also was able to give some advice to my friends and alleviate issues that they were having with their bikes. It's a complex topic, though, so if you already have some experience riding a road bike and you're still experiencing issues - visiting a bike fitter would be your best (and fastest) bet.
@@Vasylian1 so in my example, I knew that my I had my fit dialled in on my old bike, although I would prefer the stack to be a tad larger for full comfort. While I could do entire day rides on that bike, after few hours I would still get some pain in my wrists. Mind you that I had to have 40mm of spacers under the stem and had the stem on +6 degrees on that frame. So I've taken the reach and stack measurements from the manufacturer's website, added the amount of spacers that I was using, added in 19mm for the positive stem angle and another 5mm because I had my handlebars angled upwards a bit. And then I compared these numbers to various bike frames that I liked. Turned out that Cervelo Caledonia is size 56 was a perfect fit - using Roval Alpinist cockpit in 100mm length and -6 degree with 25mm of spacers underneath would still put my effective hood position roughly 20mm higher than on the old bike. Which is perfect remembering that I only needed a tad bit more stack to alleviate my wrist issues on longer rides. I can now also more comfortably reach the drops and find myself actually riding in drops much more than I would on the old bike. Plus the bike looks super neat with every component in its place, not that 40mm of spacers and +6 deg stem frankenstein that I had previously on too small Bianchi Oltre bike.
One think I don't think was mentioned was the shorter wheelbase would likely cause your foot to touch the front wheel when turning sharply. Also due to the higher seat post length in relation to the frame, you wouldn't be able to get your fore and aft saddle position correct which means you'd be sat too far back in relation to the BB (so your knee won't be in a good position). I think everyone noticed the stem issue being far too low 😄 but presumably all for a laugh.
Conor... at your height what's the most important frame dimension that you have to have?
I'm 6'3" and can't ride anything less than a 60cm tt and love a 70 degree st angle. Plus a 130mm stem.
Next episode on GCN:
Why you should get a dropper post on your road bike.
Already done. At least it was tested and the consensus was: "Pretty cool".
Being 6’9” (206 cm), I will watch anything where Conor talks about the struggles of being a tall cyclist. It’s super difficult finding bikes that fit here in the US and I’m sure anywhere else so any suggestions he has for finding bikes and navigating being a very tall rider, I’m all ears for.
Basically find another sport
Get a big ripper or something.
I’m 6’6” and have gotten away with a 62” Specialized Allez with seat post at max, and a XL Canyon Grail. If you’re 6’9”, you might try the 64” Trek (I.e. the Emonda comes in that size. (I also wear a IRL stripe jersey and will watch anything with Conor)😂
Zinn
I had a custom Moots made for me. It’s an amazing feeling to have a bike that actually fits you. I am 200 cm tall.
Holy toe overlap, Batman!
My first association when he got on a small bike and went was "A cockroach on a bicycle" 🤣🤣🤣
That was Manon walking by ignoring Conor at 10:20, wasn’t it?
Why not just ride a small bike rather than being absurd and putting that stem on it and rendering the video totally useless. Most people ride bikes that are too big.
Never raise a seatpost past the max limit. I used a 27.2 mountain bike seatpost on one of my bikes to get the fit right. Normally, I use a 59x59cm frame, with a 13 or 14cm flat stem. One of my frames came with a longer top tube, so I was able to use a 55 cm seat tube with a mountain bike seatpost.
You've got way too much saddle to bar drop. It's going to really screw up your feeling on the bike. I usually run with about 4" of bar drop. (10 cm)
I have a 2010 Cube Agree. I'm 6'1" and I bought a 58cm frame. Its always felt a little on the small side. I've since been told that Cube frames tend to come up a size small, and I can well believe that.
Interesting! Maybe head down to your local bike shop and see if you can try something else out? 🤔
Big channel. Fan of yours. Next timr just take a smaller road bike. I believe much better comparison it makes.
Anyone noticed the road name of the test is called Cavendish Rd XD
Frame size depends on which bike you go with.I have a focus Cayo 57cm and it rides more like a 59 and I find it very comfy
Man like Conor making a large frame look like a fisher price my first bike 😅💪🏼
Ya, I’m in the middle of medium and large. I can go for both but I went for medium since your saddle stem can always be tapered with.
We’ll be shorter when we’re old too
Negative Stem is silly.. Pick downsize and put normal raise stem.
fills my 10x15 foot bedroom with plenty of cool air. The remote is so handy by the bed at night.
Very informative video....
Valve stems aren't aligned, not in biggie-small. Just nice.
Well spotted! 👀
They had decided what result they wanted and made the bike deliver that result. Absolutely useless comparison
yowamushi pedal midousuji style, minus the extreme negative stem...
I have very tall legs and got a rather bad static ‘bikefit’ and later had to mount a 60 mm stem to land on the hoods with my hands. The steering however is not compromized at all and I have a good aero position. So don’t be afraid to mount a 60 mm stem stem if that fits you better.
The stem setup on the smaller frame is just stupid. A more normal setup would work better.
PLEASE don't fool around with readers. Your XXL frameset is IMPOSSIBLE to mount your bars THE SAME CLOSE to your wheel/tyre. Every bike fitter may from the first glance saying "WTF".
What happens is one of the most uncomfortable rides ever !! I know it from first hand experience, i couldnt wait for change to the correct size tbh
I'm kind of lucky. I am 6'2" (188 cm), so I fall right between two sizes on most bikes. I typically ride a 58, but easily get away with a 60 without any compromises. I am at the high end for most 58's and the low end for most 60's.
@Vinicius it is almost 34 inches. About 86 cm.
I see the long stem but you haven’t mentioned the 20-ish degree downward angle??
It's because Conor is so tall he needed to extend the reach but couldn't get the saddle any higher.
@@gcn
The XXL has a reach/Stack of 409/626mm. The L reach/Stack is -14/-44mm compared the XXL. (These are frame geometries).
You guys messed up bigtime here.