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Just to add my experience. 2013 Escape 1.6. My son was driving it home and the engine died. The instrument display said the transmission not in park. The lights would come on inside, but no dash lights. Miles showed up on display, but nothing else. Would not start. Had to use the override switch in the shift lever to put it into neutral and drug it home. Watched many videos. Checked: battery-it was ok, 1 year old Mega fuses- ok, ohm check and voltage checked. Even swapped 2 50A-all good. Major grounds-generally looked like crap (northern tier salted roads), but checked good otherwise. Cleaned and moved on. With no other major things or any available indications, I decided to check the start circuit, starting with the key circuit. Quickly found the Ignition Switch Fuse (F78 on BCM) was blown. Replaced it and car worked as advertised. Tried to drive it, and the fuse blew again. Began shooting wires after the fuse to find short. Checked to key and back. Looked for shorts to ground, none found. Shook harnesses and connectors, no shorts found. Began looking for other potential shorts associate with the floor shifter, instrument panel, pedals (for the heck of it.) To my surprise, found a Ford Remote Start System DNA-9 GEN-2 stuffed up under the driver’s side. Had bought the car used and was told there was no remote start. Was surprised because the wiring checked good following the diagrams for no remote start. Due to the shoddiness of the installation as well as manufacture dates on these remote start parts, this system was installed at least two years after the car was manufactured. Started researching my car problems with this Ford remote starter. Found a post for a 2015 Escape with the same problems. (His remote start stopped working and even the key wouldn’t work. Found F78 blown.) He disconnected the Ford DNA-9 GEN-2, replaced the fuse and it worked. He opened the box and found corrosion all over the board. I disconnected the remote start, replaced the fuse, everything worked fine. Did many laps around a local addition, no more problems. I opened the Ford DNA-2 GEN-2 and found a blown diode. Since this remote start box has been removed, I have had no further problems. Hope this helps if all the rest doesn’t.
I've sold over 500 cars and diag almost every issue on that platform, similar as Focus 2.0T ST, same engine/pcm.. don't know if you pulled that fuse sometimes they have hairline fracture that I have seen cause issues as this, as you said highly unlikely cable that thick is damaged unless damaged by someone working on the car/accident. Also corrosion is common on these models that cause similar issue, but it's mostly seen on the main ground that goes from the battery to negative on strut tower, also left front frame rail.
yup and that ground also the cause of many transmission shifting and codes issue. I believer there is a TSB on that ground. I know shops chenged transes on this line of Fords because that ground on the strut tower.
I would pull out my high current power supply, set the current limit supply at 10amps disconnect the wire in question from the car. Then connect the power supply across the wire. Then you use the IR gun or camera to find the bad spot or the old school way is freeze spray the wire and the bad spot will unthaw first. You could use a resistor to limit current and calculate current using ohms law but be careful! I would use less current on smaller wires. I don't think the wire is bad but it has a bad connection.
Helpful video, thank you very much 👍 SHARP Dallas Auto Diag From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 08:39am Good morning 🙏 🌄 the 🌞 is out but cold
The problem is the #9 mega fuse itself. It's a well known issue on the Focus and Escape models. The fuse appears and tests okay, but when checking for continuity (with fuse removed) with a meter you can get it to fail by slightly moving the ends of the fuse back and forth.
Any idea why my '14 Escape died while I was in park with the engine running, then when I insert the key it tells me no key detected? Looking through all manner of things
@DallasAutoDiag Good morning. Yes I did. Slight different solution though. I had the car towed home, and it cranked up but would die after about ten seconds or so. All the voltages were fine inside of the fuse box. However, I found that while it was running, if I put some slight pressure on the fuse box, the car would die, and that's when I would lose voltage on the output side heading to the BCM. Turned out to be the 50A fuse heading to the BCM. Swapped the fuse and haven't had or been able to recreate the issue since. This video did help me with the general area to hunt though, so thank you!
Cars today are made like crap with way too much electrical stuff. Good luck being able to have a modern car as a future antique. It’s all made as disposable junk for premium prices. Somebody should start a new car company making affordable, reliable, simpler cars that people can work on easily themselves.
@DallasAutoDiag update on my peice. I got a good junk yard tcm. I out it in and did the adaptive learning and so far 45 miles no transfsult no codes vehicles works great. What a night mare of a vehicle to diag and fix
Just to add my experience. 2013 Escape 1.6.
My son was driving it home and the engine died. The instrument display said the transmission not in park. The lights would come on inside, but no dash lights. Miles showed up on display, but nothing else. Would not start.
Had to use the override switch in the shift lever to put it into neutral and drug it home.
Watched many videos.
Checked:
battery-it was ok, 1 year old
Mega fuses- ok, ohm check and voltage checked. Even swapped 2 50A-all good.
Major grounds-generally looked like crap (northern tier salted roads), but checked good otherwise. Cleaned and moved on.
With no other major things or any available indications, I decided to check the start circuit, starting with the key circuit. Quickly found the Ignition Switch Fuse (F78 on BCM) was blown. Replaced it and car worked as advertised. Tried to drive it, and the fuse blew again.
Began shooting wires after the fuse to find short. Checked to key and back. Looked for shorts to ground, none found. Shook harnesses and connectors, no shorts found.
Began looking for other potential shorts associate with the floor shifter, instrument panel, pedals (for the heck of it.) To my surprise, found a Ford Remote Start System DNA-9 GEN-2 stuffed up under the driver’s side.
Had bought the car used and was told there was no remote start. Was surprised because the wiring checked good following the diagrams for no remote start.
Due to the shoddiness of the installation as well as manufacture dates on these remote start parts, this system was installed at least two years after the car was manufactured.
Started researching my car problems with this Ford remote starter. Found a post for a 2015 Escape with the same problems. (His remote start stopped working and even the key wouldn’t work. Found F78 blown.)
He disconnected the Ford DNA-9 GEN-2, replaced the fuse and it worked. He opened the box and found corrosion all over the board.
I disconnected the remote start, replaced the fuse, everything worked fine. Did many laps around a local addition, no more problems.
I opened the Ford DNA-2 GEN-2 and found a blown diode.
Since this remote start box has been removed, I have had no further problems.
Hope this helps if all the rest doesn’t.
Well done 👏 and thanks for sharing your experience.
@@DallasAutoDiag You are welcome.
I've sold over 500 cars and diag almost every issue on that platform, similar as Focus 2.0T ST, same engine/pcm.. don't know if you pulled that fuse sometimes they have hairline fracture that I have seen cause issues as this, as you said highly unlikely cable that thick is damaged unless damaged by someone working on the car/accident. Also corrosion is common on these models that cause similar issue, but it's mostly seen on the main ground that goes from the battery to negative on strut tower, also left front frame rail.
yup and that ground also the cause of many transmission shifting and codes issue. I believer there is a TSB on that ground. I know shops chenged transes on this line of Fords because that ground on the strut tower.
What great video friend
Thanks Nidal
Great video, Thanks! I see your using your Autel again; what did they do to fix your no com issue?
Thanks. That's before sending it.
I would pull out my high current power supply, set the current limit supply at 10amps disconnect the wire in question from the car. Then connect the power supply across the wire. Then you use the IR gun or camera to find the bad spot or the old school way is freeze spray the wire and the bad spot will unthaw first. You could use a resistor to limit current and calculate current using ohms law but be careful! I would use less current on smaller wires. I don't think the wire is bad but it has a bad connection.
thanks for the tip. sounds like a lot to do but definitly has its spot in the diag process. will keep it in my mind fo future cases.
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وايدك تدلل
Helpful video, thank you very much
👍
SHARP Dallas Auto Diag
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 08:39am Good morning 🙏 🌄 the 🌞 is out but cold
Thanks Nick
The problem is the #9 mega fuse itself. It's a well known issue on the Focus and Escape models. The fuse appears and tests okay, but when checking for continuity (with fuse removed) with a meter you can get it to fail by slightly moving the ends of the fuse back and forth.
Thanks for the explanation. I'm sure it will help somebody.
Hi enjoyed watching it .what settings you had on the probe that was noisy all the time
Which part of tge video?
Whats the time on the video you saw that?
Any idea why my '14 Escape died while I was in park with the engine running, then when I insert the key it tells me no key detected? Looking through all manner of things
did you watch the whole video?
@DallasAutoDiag Good morning. Yes I did. Slight different solution though. I had the car towed home, and it cranked up but would die after about ten seconds or so. All the voltages were fine inside of the fuse box. However, I found that while it was running, if I put some slight pressure on the fuse box, the car would die, and that's when I would lose voltage on the output side heading to the BCM. Turned out to be the 50A fuse heading to the BCM. Swapped the fuse and haven't had or been able to recreate the issue since. This video did help me with the general area to hunt though, so thank you!
how about pulling the mega fuse and checking it before calling a repair that will cost hundreds if not thousands?
That's the whole point of the video.
F8 or F 9 the end fuse breaks internal
Thanks for the info
Hi i hve issues f33 fuse is blowing..no crank any recommendations
A tech has to chase all the circuits on that fuse
The PCM of this model is under the left wheel panels?
Correct
Hello,
Which Autel Model do you use?
Hi. I use maxisys MS919
👍👍👍
Thanks
Where is the cms in the 2015 Ford escape se
Not surw
you have to remove the left front wheel well , its tucked between it and the unibody . With the right tools its a 15 min job tops to get to it
What website are you going to for the wiring schematics?
alldata
Also where is fuel shut off switch
If it's not on the passenger side kick panel then it's electric.
I have same issue whit ford transit connect
How do you know it's the same issue?
Hello can I get you talk one phone I’m a technician if we can work together
I hope you see this
Sure. Contact me on Facebook
Cars today are made like crap with way too much electrical stuff. Good luck being able to have a modern car as a future antique. It’s all made as disposable junk for premium prices. Somebody should start a new car company making affordable, reliable, simpler cars that people can work on easily themselves.
I decided to buy a truck last year. I bought a 2002 Toyota Tacoma 😊
I have a 2014 focus what a peice of shit I rebuilt the whole vehicle and it's still a paper weight
Agree
@DallasAutoDiag update on my peice. I got a good junk yard tcm. I out it in and did the adaptive learning and so far 45 miles no transfsult no codes vehicles works great. What a night mare of a vehicle to diag and fix