When I did mine yesterday and set the valve cover in place, it wouldn't slide down completely, leaving a half inch gap between the cover and the engine. I tried using body weight to force the new seals down over the four tubes (that lead to the spark plugs). No luck. Out of desperation, I decided to pop the new seals out of the cover and slide each one up and down each of those metal tubes. After putting them back in the valve cover, they slid right over those tubes no problem and I no longer had the 1/2" gap. I guess they just needed to be stretched out a little. So based on what I found, next time I'll grease up the seals and slide each new seal onto each tube before setting them into the valve cover. It's all done now thanks to this video! I took the opportunity to clean up the cover as well. I have never used brake cleaner. That spray is the bomb!
I used the same method to replace my valve cover gasket. The only question I have is whether I have to wait for some time to start the engine to check the oil leak. My situation was to start the engine directly after installing everything back and the right corner of the valve cover gasket leaks a little bit of oil. I will redo the work and will let it sit there for 24 hours before start the engine. Will report once I have the results. Update: I redid the valve cover gasket for my 04 Accord. Let the vehicle wait for 24 hours. No more oil leak after started the engine. I used the same sealant used in the video. Check the sealant instructions for more information.
When doing a new cover gasket replacement, the matting surfaces must be extremely clean and oil free. Also, RTV must be used at the sharp corners and where metal to metal surfaces meet to prevent oil seepage. RTV usually needs only about a hour to dry.
I was wondering hopefully you answer me but does the order by what the coil packs does it matter or because I kinda mixed them once I had them in my hand
Can anyone tell me the torque (in ft. lbs or inch lbs.) for the screws that hold that power steering hose to that one part shown in the video? Also, would it be ok to use blue loctite on those screws (or for that matter, the valve cover screws as well). The blue version allows you to remove the bolts still.
Why did you decide to remove the heat shield instead of just the three bolts holding the solenoid in place? Is there a reason why you didn't also replace the O-ring on the solenoid while you had it off? What is the RTV grease for? Finally, who is your videographer ? You need to give him/her a raise and a shout out here lol
@@hardlymovingpro Right at marker 7:45 you're putting on four dabs of Permatex High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket. Why is this needed and why just those 4 spots only?
@@hardlymovingpro oh ok thank u I’m gonna get everything u used in this video and replace all the seals and vtc at the same time because my car as a oil leak from bad seals
Just did my valve cover and there’s a small gap from where the heads meet the cover..I can see the gasket but that’s it so far no leaks down the side that I can notice did I do this wrong? I’m worried but I tend to overthink things I just don’t remember if there was a gap before or not
If it's leaking from the p/s pump connection point, the rubber O ring should be replaced. If it's leaking anywhere on the hose (usually were the rubber meets the metal flange), the hose has probably dried out, became brittle, can no longer hold pressure and should be replaced. Not unusual with old, high mileage cars.
@@hardlymovingpro It seems to leak after removing and putting it back for this job. Honda's OEM o-ring replacement looks different from the o-ring that's originally on the connector.
Take the O ring off and go the Advance Auto Parts. They usually have a bunch of different size O rings to match up with what you have. Generally speaking, anytime you detach something with a O ring, you run the risk of having to replace it, especially with older cars ... which is why I have a bunch of spare new O rings on hand. As a matter of fact, tomorrow morning I'll be heading out there to get a match on a AC O ring.
Thanks for posting. I was curious if this would be the same or is the same engine for a 2006 Honda Element? I see the I4 VTEC. I'm assuming it is, but not much of a car guy.
What kind of cleaner are you using to clean the cover and blow it off at the beginning of the video and again later in the video to clean the entire cover?? Also Is it a good idea to go ahead and replace the spark plugs at the same time when replacing the gasket? GREAT VIDEO!!!!
Thanks! I use aerosol brake cleaner. Contains acetone which is a good oil/grease solvent and drys quickly. Yes... Good time to replace the plugs. Iridium plug prices have come down a lot.
@@hardlymovingpro Piggybacking on his stuff but HondaBond is not necessary for this job? What was the purpose of RTV at the points you mentioned? Also where is HondaBond mostly used at? I read the 04-08 TSX / 04?-07 Accords have sealed oil pans which is what i assume the HondaBond is used for.
Can you tell us the name/model# of the power tool you're using? Looks like that would make this job a lot easier. Are the brushes you using to clean the valve cover made of nylon or wire bristles?
It's a Milwaukee M12 3/8" electric ratchet wrench. Very durable and lasted for years without fail. Amazon product link in this video's description. There's other cheaper no name brands as well.
@@hardlymovingpro How did I miss that link? :( Thanks for that info. Are the brushes you used to clean the valve cover made of some type of nylon bristles or are they metal bristles? I'm guessing nylon to avoid scratching the cover. Just wondering.
My vtec solenoid still leaks a bit near the bottom. Any ideas? I am using a honda OEM gasket too. Is there a specific torque sequence? I realized it's 7lb / ft torque, but taking off, it was on real tight. Any suggestions or idea? The 10MM bolts should align everything right? Thanks
In situations like yours, coat the matting surfaces with RTV (where the gasket meets the solenoid). This should make the solenoid forever leak free. I've done this multiple times with the Toyota I4 5SFE engine oil pump housing assembly ... one time without using a gasket at all. The gasket grooves will then need a thick coat of RTV. Good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the suggestion. You mean the actual groove itself right and not the mating between block and gasket? But the grooves of the actual solenoid itself? Do you think Honda Bond will work? Thanks.
Yes ... the groove ... but enough material to stick to the engine's matting surface. For example, on Toyota's I4 AZ-FE engine water pump, there's no gasket. Their Aisin replacement water pump comes with no gasket. They do tell you to use Toyota's RTV which I've been told is pretty strong stuff. So far I've been successfully using Permetex Gray HD RTV.
Good luck! Make sure all the contact surfaces are oil free. Use brake clean spray solvent with compressed air. To support our channel, give us a thumbs up and to get notifications of new videos, please subscribe.
My preference is Denso (OEM for Toyota) over NGK (OEM for Honda) . Go with the Denso Long Life Iridium or Twin Tip Iridium. You can easily get over 100k miles out of them. Torque them down between 15 to 18 lbs of torque or they'll get loose over time.
For me the worst part of this job is tightening those damn valve cover bolts. I broke one not evening tightening that tight. I ordered a new bolt but I am too shit scared to take it off and replace it as these bolts seem to snap like twigs.
It's def alot faster to beat the tube seals out with a flathead from the top. One or two good wacks with a hammer they pop right out. Those rubber seals turn to plastic over time and are a real bitch to remove especially with a seal puller.
How come many mechanics who make videos, don't show the problems they go through while taking off the bolts. Breakage, rusted out, welded on bolt removal. They can't all be perfect bolts.
Most 10 m under the hood are not breaking unless they are cross-threaded. More likely to strip in plastic if over torqued. If you are breaking more bolts than jobs you do, you have the wrong customers or you are doing it wrong.
When I did mine yesterday and set the valve cover in place, it wouldn't slide down completely, leaving a half inch gap between the cover and the engine. I tried using body weight to force the new seals down over the four tubes (that lead to the spark plugs). No luck. Out of desperation, I decided to pop the new seals out of the cover and slide each one up and down each of those metal tubes. After putting them back in the valve cover, they slid right over those tubes no problem and I no longer had the 1/2" gap. I guess they just needed to be stretched out a little.
So based on what I found, next time I'll grease up the seals and slide each new seal onto each tube before setting them into the valve cover. It's all done now thanks to this video! I took the opportunity to clean up the cover as well. I have never used brake cleaner. That spray is the bomb!
Yes. Torqueing down the valve cover bolts evenly should remove all gaps.
How could anyone thumbs down this video!!!! Thank you for showing a greatly edited video without leaving anything out!!
Thanks!
Great video. I appreciate that you're straight to the point and do good camera work.
Thanks!
Great lighting & camera work so we can SEE.
Appreciate it!
One of the best repair videos I’ve ever seen. Very concise and to the point. Speeding the video up when necessary. Great job sir.
Thanks!
Love your videos. Keep them up. I cant get enough of them
Thanks! Will do!
Thanks very much for this video! Very nicely done! I'll be tackling this one shortly. The OEM part# for the valve cover gasket set is:
12030-RAA-A01
thanks for sharing!
Dude, you got the best videos; keep them coming.
Thanks ... do appreciate you comment. Will do ... keep them coming!
I used the same method to replace my valve cover gasket. The only question I have is whether I have to wait for some time to start the engine to check the oil leak. My situation was to start the engine directly after installing everything back and the right corner of the valve cover gasket leaks a little bit of oil. I will redo the work and will let it sit there for 24 hours before start the engine. Will report once I have the results.
Update: I redid the valve cover gasket for my 04 Accord. Let the vehicle wait for 24 hours. No more oil leak after started the engine. I used the same sealant used in the video. Check the sealant instructions for more information.
When doing a new cover gasket replacement, the matting surfaces must be extremely clean and oil free. Also, RTV must be used at the sharp corners and where metal to metal surfaces meet to prevent oil seepage. RTV usually needs only about a hour to dry.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the useful information.
@@dr_920 No problem!
that was an outstanding detail work and FAST. Thank you so much for this video!!!!
You bet!
wish you was near georgia, i can used some of thoes skills u have man. great work
Thanks for your comment ... live in the suburbs of Memphis.
You made it look so easy
Do it enough times and does become easy.
Thank you so much for this video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you that was a real good video
You bet!
Great video hands down
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome Video Bro!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Appreciate your vid. Very helpful. 👍
Thanks!
Just replaced the whole unit of VTEC Solenoid. Here's Honda OEM Part#15810-RAA-A03 for $184.77. Took me one and half hour.
Solenoid was malfunctioning?
Listen, if you go to Ebay, you'll find that part for less that $12.00
Rockauto.com Original replacement $50.00.
I was wondering hopefully you answer me but does the order by what the coil packs does it matter or because I kinda mixed them once I had them in my hand
Order does not matter.
Very informative, thank you
Thanks and you bet!
Can anyone tell me the torque (in ft. lbs or inch lbs.) for the screws that hold that power steering hose to that one part shown in the video? Also, would it be ok to use blue loctite on those screws (or for that matter, the valve cover screws as well). The blue version allows you to remove the bolts still.
Why did you decide to remove the heat shield instead of just the three bolts holding the solenoid in place?
Is there a reason why you didn't also replace the O-ring on the solenoid while you had it off?
What is the RTV grease for?
Finally, who is your videographer ? You need to give him/her a raise and a shout out here lol
Removing the heat shield made easier viewing. O-ring wasn't leaking. Not RTV ... dielectric (silicone) grease to help with gasket sealing.
@@hardlymovingpro Right at marker 7:45 you're putting on four dabs of Permatex High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket. Why is this needed and why just those 4 spots only?
Needed at corners to prevent oil leaks where the gasket may not seal
Is it the same for a 08 Honda Accord coupe because it looks like it is because of the same engine but making shore
Should be the same engine.
@@hardlymovingpro oh ok thank u I’m gonna get everything u used in this video and replace all the seals and vtc at the same time because my car as a oil leak from bad seals
@@mrmayhemftw6512 ok ... Good luck with the job!
I've been trying for a week to remove my seloniod 10 mm and driver I can't get it off any other tips
Use a 1/4 socket wrench or a box wrench.
bolt extractor
Just did my valve cover and there’s a small gap from where the heads meet the cover..I can see the gasket but that’s it so far no leaks down the side that I can notice did I do this wrong? I’m worried but I tend to overthink things I just don’t remember if there was a gap before or not
You could have applied a dab of RTV sealant in the gap for a perfect seal.
When putting a gasket is it hand tighten or needs to a specific torque spec??? Please help
On average, 10 mm nuts and bolts should be torqued between 7 to 9 lbs ... which is hand torque using a 1/4 ratchet.
After taking out the high pressure side and putting it back, it seems to leak. Can you please advise? Thanks.
High pressure side of what? AC or PS?
@@hardlymovingpro p/s. like in the vid. to give clearance to putting back on the valve cover.
If it's leaking from the p/s pump connection point, the rubber O ring should be replaced. If it's leaking anywhere on the hose (usually were the rubber meets the metal flange), the hose has probably dried out, became brittle, can no longer hold pressure and should be replaced. Not unusual with old, high mileage cars.
@@hardlymovingpro It seems to leak after removing and putting it back for this job. Honda's OEM o-ring replacement looks different from the o-ring that's originally on the connector.
Take the O ring off and go the Advance Auto Parts. They usually have a bunch of different size O rings to match up with what you have. Generally speaking, anytime you detach something with a O ring, you run the risk of having to replace it, especially with older cars ... which is why I have a bunch of spare new O rings on hand. As a matter of fact, tomorrow morning I'll be heading out there to get a match on a AC O ring.
is it okay to coat the new spark plug seals with some oil instead? thanks for this vid
Better to coat with di-electric grease.
Hey I just broke the top of my valve cover screws. Do you know what they are called? They were the two screws you removed first
I believe you're talking about the plastic coil pack dust cover retention bolts and nuts (10 mm).
Thanks for posting. I was curious if this would be the same or is the same engine for a 2006 Honda Element? I see the I4 VTEC. I'm assuming it is, but not much of a car guy.
Yes ... it'll work on your Element up to 2011.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the speedy reply!
@@TurtwigFan You bet!
What kind of cleaner are you using to clean the cover and blow it off at the beginning of the video and again later in the video to clean the entire cover?? Also Is it a good idea to go ahead and replace the spark plugs at the same time when replacing the gasket? GREAT VIDEO!!!!
Thanks! I use aerosol brake cleaner. Contains acetone which is a good oil/grease solvent and drys quickly. Yes... Good time to replace the plugs. Iridium plug prices have come down a lot.
Do you need sealant on the new gasket? I am trying to do this on a 2008 accord?
Nope.
@@hardlymovingpro Piggybacking on his stuff but HondaBond is not necessary for this job? What was the purpose of RTV at the points you mentioned? Also where is HondaBond mostly used at? I read the 04-08 TSX / 04?-07 Accords have sealed oil pans which is what i assume the HondaBond is used for.
Anyone know the inch pounds to torque the 10mm bolts on the VTEC solenoid gasket (a.k.a. filter assy. spool valve gasket)?
10 mm nuts and bolts shouldn't exceed around 7 lbs.
What is the spray you are using to clean the engine?
Brake clean aerosol can.
Would a leaking valve cover gasket or vtec solenoid gasket cause your car to smell like something is burning
Yes. The leaking oil will migrate to the exhaust manifold and burn.
Can you tell us the name/model# of the power tool you're using? Looks like that would make this job a lot easier.
Are the brushes you using to clean the valve cover made of nylon or wire bristles?
It's a Milwaukee M12 3/8" electric ratchet wrench. Very durable and lasted for years without fail. Amazon product link in this video's description. There's other cheaper no name brands as well.
@@hardlymovingpro How did I miss that link? :( Thanks for that info. Are the brushes you used to clean the valve cover made of some type of nylon bristles or are they metal bristles? I'm guessing nylon to avoid scratching the cover. Just wondering.
Yes ... Nylon
Great job.
Thanks for the visit!
Is this the same procedure for a 2010 accord 4 cyl. And does it have that vtc solenoid?
Can't say.
Eric the car guy has doing a replacement on a video on that engine.
My vtec solenoid still leaks a bit near the bottom. Any ideas? I am using a honda OEM gasket too. Is there a specific torque sequence? I realized it's 7lb / ft torque, but taking off, it was on real tight. Any suggestions or idea? The 10MM bolts should align everything right? Thanks
In situations like yours, coat the matting surfaces with RTV (where the gasket meets the solenoid). This should make the solenoid forever leak free. I've done this multiple times with the Toyota I4 5SFE engine oil pump housing assembly ... one time without using a gasket at all. The gasket grooves will then need a thick coat of RTV. Good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the suggestion. You mean the actual groove itself right and not the mating between block and gasket? But the grooves of the actual solenoid itself? Do you think Honda Bond will work? Thanks.
Yes ... the groove ... but enough material to stick to the engine's matting surface. For example, on Toyota's I4 AZ-FE engine water pump, there's no gasket. Their Aisin replacement water pump comes with no gasket. They do tell you to use Toyota's RTV which I've been told is pretty strong stuff. So far I've been successfully using Permetex Gray HD RTV.
@@hardlymovingpro i see what you mean. i‘ll give it a try.
Good luck! Make sure all the contact surfaces are oil free. Use brake clean spray solvent with compressed air.
To support our channel, give us a thumbs up and to get notifications of new videos, please subscribe.
What is that spray your using to clean with?
Aerosol brake cleaner (used as a solvent) and high pressure compressed air.
Hardly Moving Productions thanks so much! I’m about to do all this as well, any tips or advice I’m replacing spark plugs as well.
My preference is Denso (OEM for Toyota) over NGK (OEM for Honda) . Go with the Denso Long Life Iridium or Twin Tip Iridium. You can easily get over 100k miles out of them. Torque them down between 15 to 18 lbs of torque or they'll get loose over time.
@@hardlymovingpro what brand of torque wrench do u use
Sear's Craftsmen was my most recent purchase. It has an electronic dial. On sale 50% off. Gearwrench makes some very good tools too.
Is Di-Electric Grease the same as Silicone Paste? Also, is it okay to use HondaBond instead?
Yes ... Silicone. Also plumbers grease. Impervious to oil and water and won't make rubber swell like with oil
@@hardlymovingpro is it okay to put rtv before installing the Valve Cover Gasket? Meaning underneath the gasket not the face.
Did you need to drain the oil first?
Nope.
Probably a good time to replace spark plugs is you haven't in a while
These iridium plugs do last a very long time!
Should'nt. you grease the valve cover gasket as well?
Not at all unless its silicone grease which is still unnecessary
@@hardlymovingpro thanks!! I’m in the process of doing this exact job on my element. All the info i needed is in this Great video! Subbed.
You bet!
How much some one should charge for doing this exactly job ?
I'd say not more that (1.5 hrs labor x labor rate) + parts
Did you remove the spark plugs?
No ... not necessary
For me the worst part of this job is tightening those damn valve cover bolts. I broke one not evening tightening that tight. I ordered a new bolt but I am too shit scared to take it off and replace it as these bolts seem to snap like twigs.
These bolts should only take 7 pounds of torque. Use a small 1/4" ratchet. Harder to over torque with a smaller tool.
What was the RTV for...?
To prevent oil seepage where the timing chain cover mates with the engine block
Do you have a shop or something?
Yup. East of Memphis.
Did u torque wrench ?
Not on 10 mm bolts.
What is rtv?
A silicone based liquid used as a sealant that hardens when exposed to air. Used mostly as a coating for gaskets.
Perfect
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro About doing mine with Beck/Arnley 036-1795. A 2006 Acura TSX.
How much this job cost
Prices vary. Call the dealer and some independent shops
thanks
You bet!
It's def alot faster to beat the tube seals out with a flathead from the top. One or two good wacks with a hammer they pop right out. Those rubber seals turn to plastic over time and are a real bitch to remove especially with a seal puller.
That works too. Sometimes I use your method combined with the pry tool.
How come many mechanics who make videos, don't show the problems they go through while taking off the bolts. Breakage, rusted out, welded on bolt removal. They can't all be perfect bolts.
Because people don't want to see long drawn out videos?
@@hardlymovingpro they can make multiple videos. This way, the people who think they can figure out the solution on their own, can move on.
Most 10 m under the hood are not breaking unless they are cross-threaded. More likely to strip in plastic if over torqued. If you are breaking more bolts than jobs you do, you have the wrong customers or you are doing it wrong.
👍
Thanks!
Good
Thanks
man i just replace that gasket on the v-tec solenoid, it will leak under the car and make you think you have a bad oil leak. get the gasket from honda
Seems like all Honda I4's leak from that gasket.
My fucking kit came with 8 rings an they all fit flawlessly until i had everything back together an the damn coil pack wouldnt go back in
Hahah dielectric grease for everything.
You got it!