Thank you for this incredible video-love how you interact and include your grandkids! Also the plans are well detailed and can awesome resource to making this coop a winner
We are excited to share our "Full Build" video of the Hoop Coop! It gives detailed step-by-step guidance on how to build one. Be sure to check out our detailed plan set with material list. Thanks for watching!
The two panel coop and the three panel coop are exactly the same except for the length of 4 boards. The inside-to-inside dimension of the two panel coop is 100 1/2", for the three panel you use 12 feet. The roost bars on the two panel are 97 1/2", on the three panel they are 11' 9" long. This makes the 12' tarp fit perfectly. Set the two end cattle panels first and then let the third panel lap over them both in the center. Invert the center panel so that the wires / bars will nest in with the end panels. We are going to edit the plans to include these instructions for the three panel coop. Thanks for watching!
Your plans nor your comments covered exactly where to drill ( measurements) for the hole at the rear to put in the bolt to the wheels. I've looked extensively and can't find it
No structural reason. Although if you build the 3 panel coop, the roosts are 12' long and might sag in the middle if they were laid flat. We have several breeds and haven't had any issues. If you have the 1 1/2" edge up it makes the chickens stand 90 degrees from the roost bar and the poop falls to the ground instead of building up on the roost bar. You can certainly install them flat, or you could add a 1x2 along the top edge of the 2x4 roost to make it wider. That would give you 2 1/4" wide at the top. That might be a middle ground for them. We do round the edges to make it easier on their feet. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible thank you that was very helpful. I was thinking the same thing adding a one by two but you’re right about the poop issue in my regular coops. I have a sagging tarp screwed under the roost so the poop collects on the bottom and then I can just shovel pure poop out. It works out really good.
I just used left over paint that I had. I built this out of pressure treated lumber that was new and sopping wet. I used latex semi-gloss. You would want to use latex with the wet wood. Painting the pressure treated lumber causes it to dry out more slowly, which eliminates most of the splitting and checking you see with pressure treated. The PT is heavy when it's wet. When it dries out the coop is much much lighter and easier to pull. Thanks for watching!
You could. It would be easier to pull straight forward, but turning would be more difficult. It's not too heavy, so I prefer to just pull it where I want to go with wheels on the back. Thanks for watching!
Love, love, love, your presentation! Really entertaining, friendly❤ and informative.
We're glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this incredible video-love how you interact and include your grandkids! Also the plans are well detailed and can awesome resource to making this coop a winner
Thank you! We are really enjoying the stories from people that have built and love their hoop coop!
Thank you for this awesome presentation, god bless your family 😊
Thanks, I appreciate that. Thanks for watching!
We are excited to share our "Full Build" video of the Hoop Coop! It gives detailed step-by-step guidance on how to build one. Be sure to check out our detailed plan set with material list. Thanks for watching!
Where are these plans ? I do not see them
@@milojimenez1194 Use this link: www.cottonriverfarm.com/store.. to get the plans. Thanks for watching!
I was hoping your plans would have the necessary details for the 3 cattle panel tractor as well
The two panel coop and the three panel coop are exactly the same except for the length of 4 boards. The inside-to-inside dimension of the two panel coop is 100 1/2", for the three panel you use 12 feet. The roost bars on the two panel are 97 1/2", on the three panel they are 11' 9" long. This makes the 12' tarp fit perfectly. Set the two end cattle panels first and then let the third panel lap over them both in the center. Invert the center panel so that the wires / bars will nest in with the end panels. We are going to edit the plans to include these instructions for the three panel coop. Thanks for watching!
Your plans nor your comments covered exactly where to drill ( measurements) for the hole at the rear to put in the bolt to the wheels. I've looked extensively and can't find it
It is shown on sheet 12 of the plans. It is a 1/2" hole, 7" down from the top and 1 3/4" from the back.
Excellent video. Thankyou for making this hoop coop video. I am looking forward to making one.
Thanks for watching!
Cool
Thanks for watching!
Is there a structural reason you put the roosts on the way you did? I was wondering if your heavier breeds have a problem roosting on the narrow?
No structural reason. Although if you build the 3 panel coop, the roosts are 12' long and might sag in the middle if they were laid flat. We have several breeds and haven't had any issues. If you have the 1 1/2" edge up it makes the chickens stand 90 degrees from the roost bar and the poop falls to the ground instead of building up on the roost bar. You can certainly install them flat, or you could add a 1x2 along the top edge of the 2x4 roost to make it wider. That would give you 2 1/4" wide at the top. That might be a middle ground for them. We do round the edges to make it easier on their feet. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible thank you that was very helpful. I was thinking the same thing adding a one by two but you’re right about the poop issue in my regular coops. I have a sagging tarp screwed under the roost so the poop collects on the bottom and then I can just shovel pure poop out. It works out really good.
How much does the billed cost ?
Total material cost is under $500.
What Kind of paint do you use on the wood?
I just used left over paint that I had. I built this out of pressure treated lumber that was new and sopping wet. I used latex semi-gloss. You would want to use latex with the wet wood. Painting the pressure treated lumber causes it to dry out more slowly, which eliminates most of the splitting and checking you see with pressure treated. The PT is heavy when it's wet. When it dries out the coop is much much lighter and easier to pull. Thanks for watching!
Replicate on the front for wheels? Even easier to move?
You could. It would be easier to pull straight forward, but turning would be more difficult. It's not too heavy, so I prefer to just pull it where I want to go with wheels on the back. Thanks for watching!
What’s the width of this coop?
It is 8 feet wide inside-to-inside. It uses 16' cattle panels. At 8' wide it is 6'4" tall at the center. Thanks for watching!