Original ones can also be non-magnetic because some have a *brass core.. it's not that simple to determine fake vs genuine, there are good fakes 3 piece made magnetic too !
i am a englishman living in the north of poland and every saturday there is a massive market with some stalls selling third reich medals etc ,I have been looking at some iron crosses but have been reluctant to buy ,after watching your video it has given me the confidence to maybe buy one thanks john.
+John Pagden no prob,pleased the vid was of some help...but be very careful...one of the countries which manufacture lots of repro ww2 german combat awards and decorations is....Poland.
Wow, great and helpful video I had the luck this saturday morning to buy two EK I on a flea market from an old man and did not know if they were original or not and because of your video i know now that they are original because they both have the thin "put together" line 09:07-09:22 on all sides. Thank you !
Very informative ! I got now 3 Iron crosses I bought from collectors ,and one is with Dedication Waffen SS Soldier. they're looking good and been use .. Collecting now more Items as German Cross and Tank Badges . Its ice hobby with lot of history
thanks a lot, Mr. Campbell. Own some of these ICs, some from collector, some I bought. You made it really clear and easy to check if it is genuine. No I don´t have to asume anymore: "looks well done...genuine..." especially the 3parts it is made of and were is the black color, and were not. Kind regards from Germany
Great video's, find myself watching more each night. Need to find out more about the badges now how to tell real from fake. Slowly I'm learning more about different bits and the videos are more helpful than trawling through pages of writing.
thanks for looking at them, i had considered updating the older ones but in some cases i no longer have the items in the video....things go out for things to come in!!
You should ask a metal detector expert to see if there is a metal detector that can let you know when you are testing an origional and what the signature is of iron and silver. You could probably disassemble the detector and take it to shows or set one up at a show for people to test there stuff. Cool video
In my Iron Cross I can get a sheet of paper between the black core and the silver frame and I can see a line between the two pieces of metal. The black seems totally black and I am not sure if it´s painted. It´s magnetic, but as you told in the comments not all was magnetic. In mine the hook of the pin is to the right side, but your first original was to the left, but the second original you showed is to the right as mine. Behind it is some marking like an S and then L59. I really hope mine is original. I hope you have time to tell how it can be. Thank you for this great video.
Maker mark l59 is alois rettenmeyer..it is quite common for the core to loosen from the frame...I have had some which moved considerably in the frame when touched
@@historicmilitaria1944 My core haven’t loosen from the core so I am little nervous if it’s a reproduction, but all the other things you told makes it seem to be an original. Thank you for your fast answer.
Great video. I just bought a 1st class and out of 15 authentication videos I’ve watched, mine and your 1 here are the only ones I’ve seen without the makers mark on the pin. Mine has all the other indicators but I’m a little skeptical. I’ve also seen the real ones allow a piece of paper to slip between the iron plate and the silver frame. And mine can not do that.
Thanks ,the reason why you see more maker marked crosses is that they are more desirable to a collector than an unmarked example,so you will see more around in collections..the unmarked examples are not as desirable, a few companies made the unmarked crosses including the screwback version...iron crosses are now pushing 80 years old and over time there will be a gap where the silver frames meet the metal centre....they weren't made to have a gap....some crosses will have a gap,some wont
C J Campbell yeah thanks the only problem is though is that I live in the US so it’s hard to find antiques like that her, but when I next travel to Europe, I’ll be on the lookout:)
Informative. I have a class 1 iron cross in its box as well as some other Nazi medals. They are all genuine, they all came out of Berlin in 1945, all part of my Grandfather's "collection" He gave them to me back in the 60's.
I bought an iron cross ek1 from a seller that lives near narvik where the battle of narvik took place. Im confident cause the black chemical is worn and its brownish not silver and there isnt any problem everything looks well genuinly rusted :).
Hello there, really informative video thanks to that I've recently bought an iron cross myself. However, I'd like to ask a question since I'm sort of a loss over here. The one I bought only has visible lines between the corners of the cross and not on the ends, could polishing make the line less visible or could the one I bought be a repro?
Hello there, thanks for the reply I've bought a better lens to see the details more clearly and I am relieved to confirm your suspicion. Yes, the lines are uniform and yes the silver has been polished, making the lines at the rim barely visible. Mine was also stamped with L59, maker: Alois Rettenmaier it seems. Thanks for the video and personal help, I do appreciate it.
You should do a video on all the fakes combat badges! I went to an Antique Store in Reno and Roseville California and this one dealer is selling a lot of german combat badges. I looked at them and I can't believe there real. I know that a Fallschirmjager badge is around $600, and a Flak Badge around $300. But he has them marked at $85 and $95. He has quite a few and when I asked the employee about them she told me "oh he knows he stuff and only sell real items." After I told her the real prices and that the pins on the badges were wrong and that they are fakes, she gave me a dirty look! So I took out a real Destroyer Badge and compared it. The differences were so apparent! She was floored!
Cheers cj just thought it would make a nice curiosity together they are both relic condition so may give it a try keep the vids coming best on you tube I've come across all the best for 2014
thanks, it can be a minefield, as everyone wants a generic iron cross for their collection....replicas can go from really poor quality to excellent diestruck copies,particularly the ones coming from Germany and Poland....tho now some are filtering onto the market from Canada.
If you're buying them at a flea market... those guys are basically carnies. They're almost all shady af. If it's under $500.... just walk away. You know it's a rip-off. Nobody would sell a real one for, say, $100, or less. Stop! And even if he wants an appropriate price.... first study these things very well to know what to look for. Magnet test. The paper test. Etc.
Nice video mate! l also agree with you also l carry a metric small ruler with me as a rule of thumb with me is the center swastika is 11mm from point to point
Thanks for a great vid CJ, had checked out a few crosses both 1st & 2nd on lots of sites. One seller on ioffer has a few near perfect ones but none show the fine line between front and back pieces so think they are fakes. Not even sure where the seller is from so will leave well alone as heard that US sellers non too reliable with no provenance. Thanks again.
Thanks for your swift reply, I live in the lakes so dont really get out much to antique shops etc. I suppose most of the English sites like Liverpool Medals are legit, if you could recommend any that you know of to search through in the future I would be most grateful. D
Wow cheers bud, didnt expect that many, I have been collecting medals for a few years now, WW1 regular service medals for US & European allies, have got most of them now WW2 ones as well which are quite common as lots were made and not issued. On the whole they are quite reasonable in price except when it comes to Iron Crosses. Will just have to get my hand in my pocket for the last few, thanks very much for all your advice, in text and video they are much appreciated. David. (Jav is Cumbrian for David hence the handle)
hello yet a couple more questions, what are your thoughts about the cleaning of iron crosses , i do not mean cleaning the patina off the edges but the light dust you can get on the inner core , once again thankyou for your time john.ps what is the best way to mount iron crosses in a display cabinet.
+John Pagden hi, just a wipe with a microfiber cloth with nothing on it will do the job...in a wall mount cabinet its best to cut a small hole in the back cloth and slide the pin down it.
nice video mr campbell..interesting and well presented..but there is a slight thing i differ one..you mention that if the swas/date is shiny then its a dud...and i see where you are coming from..but there are a few ek1's and 2's out there that do have a shiny swas centre due to the fact that the soldier who was awarded it removed the paint to make the swastika stand out more my local dealer has a vaulted one with the paint on the was removed...if i could post a pic of it i would all the best Brian
My cross has all the features of a Genuine Iron Cross 2nd Class and the middle is magnetic (the ring for the Ribbon is not, nor the frame) , however the Swastika has a few chips in it that shows a slightly ages chrome like color. However I do not see any paint on the frame. It does have everything you said is Genuine other then the small small chips in the edge of the Swastika not sure if that's just because of age or if its fake.
+Zac nothing to worry about, it will be genuine,they don't all exhibit rust to the metal frame where the paint may be missing,yours has this effect due to handling.
so for the real one u need 1 silver line at the side ? the real ones are seperate in 2-3 halfs and the fake ones are 1 full piece of iron? am i right or am i wrong?
What about the German World War II Naval Kriegmarine 1st Class Iron Cross? The swastika is gold. I see one for sale and the gold is partially wore off and it appears silver underneath. And it appears to have layers pressed together.
hello i have been looking on hiscoll militaria ,have you looked on his web sight if so what do you think, he has 80 crosses some maker marked some not, sorry for all the questions but i do not have your knowledge john.
Hi cj non item related question but I'm after your knowledge would the woodwork from a k98 fit roughly on to Mauser 98 from ww1 stupid question but would appreciate your help love your reviews cheers
hi, ,the woodwork which has the butt MAY fit. but the other woodwork items are not interchangeable..the top wood from a k98 is bigger than that of the ww1 98,the top wood from a k98 would need a large amount of cutting to fit the ww1 98.
on all originals the swastika and the silver rim should be the same height, weight will not decide a repro as some originals had painted brass centres, so a painted brass centre original and a blackened iron centre original will differ in weight, however they will both be original.
Hi I have an ID and a wristwatch for a German Nazi soldier who served in Africa and I want information about them please Where can I send you pictures?
@@historicmilitaria1944 do yo have an email or Facebook page? I could send you a photo, I tried the magnetic test and it seems to stick but I still have concerns.
I have a iron cross I have just picked up it is the same on the front as on the back I was looking at your video and they all seem to have flat backs can y help
It's the strangest thing, everyone knows the Nazis were terrible people and the vast majority of us never want what went on in Nazi Germany to ever happen again but we have this fascination with Nazi items especially iconic items from the uniforms like the various orders of Iron Crosses and stahlhelms.
@@historicmilitaria1944 yeh I seen a couple on Ebay ,that are still on sale. £15.00 onwards bidding. They look the real deal but are fakes, reproduction.
hi, look for a secondhand copy of the book "Military Collectables" by joe Lyndhurst...if you type it into the youtube searchbar you will find my review of the book.
"the iron time" by stephen previtera. warning, it's not cheap. but it's loaded with info. I own a copy. www.amazon.com/Iron-Time-History-Cross/dp/0967307007
I am 9 minutes through, and it would of been better to focus first then talk, just constructive criticism, camera moving is a no no. cannot see any details properly that you were talking about in saying that I have several that I purchased 20 years ago in Australia and from what you are saying I have the real deal. Thanks.
I just purchased a cross in the back it just says Germany wish I could get more information does anybody know where I can get more information about this cross
depends where you are on the planet...if youre in the UK then M and T militaria are a good bet...they are online if youre not in the uk, and they offer a lifetime guarantee of originality.
These are all good tips CJ but unfortunately it's not enought.. there are very good fakes out there, personally I think nothing beats knowledge of good reference books and even with that many experts sometimes do get scammed.
I was thinking for you just two days ago as I got a Chrismas card from 1929 off e-bay I wanted it so bad as the name J.L.Hayman is in Aeroplane mag Aug 2011 39 bomber Squ ( Battle Honours Defenders of the North West Frontier 1929-39 ) It says "Passage to India"...left Bircham Newton Dec 28th 1928 for the 21day voyage to Karachi after the Bay of Biscay seasickness afflicted 90% of them and the squ also thought it had lost an airman overboard when LAC (is that leading aircraftman cadet ? ) maybe guner ? ''Tubby Hayman mysteriously disappeared his loss was just about to be reported to the Air Ministry when he was found unconscious jammed between the bulkead and side of the ship (MV Nevasa with 1.400 soldiers and airman on board ) At the time they were still flying the Westland Wapiti 11A there's a photo of one in the card and it says Risalpur NWFP so i''m thinking that there's only one Hayman on this Squ two it was sent by him back home 39 Squ got to Port Said on January 1929 then got to Karachi on the 19th then on to Drigh road airfield.It was the first story I'd ever read in Aeroplane or in any mag July 2011.The things I'd like to know if you can help me are were can I find out more about Hayman two any help in putting it on you tube i.e what to say about and how I can find out more Ta C.J from your biggest fan Andy also can send you photos of it some how then you can see it with your own eyes :-)
Good lord, NO. No, the 1957 Iron Crosses had the oak leaf spray in the center(on the obverse) as well as the 1939 date at the bottom. Any Iron Crosses without "anything in the middle" are either 1813 awards and are rare as hen's teeth. Or, if they don't have ""anything in the middle" but have the date of "1813" on the bottom they are the reverse of either 1939 or 1957 awards. See here: [url=imgur.com/JcjqVa9][img]i.imgur.com/JcjqVa9.jpg[/img][/url]
not necessarily...some centres were made of zinc, some brass, so will in some cases not be magnetic, the term "Iron" cross does mean the centre was originally made of iron, but some late war examples and private purchase pieces were not.
Listen to Victoria Cross Podcast at: podcasts.apple.com/au/podcast/victoria-cross/ player.whooshkaa.com/victoria-cross facebook.com/VictoriaCrossPodcast/
Rudimentary and not wholly accurate. You are tackling a subject with so many considerations and facets you can not paint them with a broad brush as you do. You are OK on some of the basics. Why would you use such a poor original as an example???
I carry a small magnet with me when i go to the collectors fairs and boot sales,if the magnet sticks to the middle portion its good.
All of them don't have a magnetic core.
Original ones can also be non-magnetic because some have a *brass core.. it's not that simple to determine fake vs genuine, there are good fakes 3 piece made magnetic too !
i am a englishman living in the north of poland and every saturday there is a massive market with some stalls selling third reich medals etc ,I have been looking at some iron crosses but have been reluctant to buy ,after watching your video it has given me the confidence to maybe buy one thanks john.
+John Pagden no prob,pleased the vid was of some help...but be very careful...one of the countries which manufacture lots of repro ww2 german combat awards and decorations is....Poland.
I just bought my first real Iron Cross from a reputable dealer and learned a few things here thanks for the tips.
Pleased the vid helped
Wow, great and helpful video I had the luck this saturday morning to buy two EK I on a flea market from an old man and did not know if they were original or not and because of your video i know now that they are original because they both have the thin "put together" line 09:07-09:22 on all sides. Thank you !
Very informative ! I got now 3 Iron crosses I bought from collectors ,and one is with Dedication Waffen SS Soldier. they're looking good and been use .. Collecting now more Items as German Cross and Tank Badges . Its ice hobby with lot of history
nice, good luck with your collecting
thanks a lot, Mr. Campbell. Own some of these ICs, some from collector, some I bought. You made it really clear and easy to check if it is genuine. No I don´t have to asume anymore: "looks well done...genuine..." especially the 3parts it is made of and were is the black color, and were not. Kind regards from Germany
thanks for your comment,really pleased you found it useful
Excellent video on iron crosses probably one of the bests on YT 👍
Great video's, find myself watching more each night. Need to find out more about the badges now how to tell real from fake. Slowly I'm learning more about different bits and the videos are more helpful than trawling through pages of writing.
Awesome man! I'm jealous, was about to sleep...then found this playlist, Damn you :) very nice haha
Just looking back at some of the your videos great advice in them all thanks
thanks for looking at them, i had considered updating the older ones but in some cases i no longer have the items in the video....things go out for things to come in!!
@@historicmilitaria1944 keep up the good work
You should ask a metal detector expert to see if there is a metal detector that can let you know when you are testing an origional and what the signature is of iron and silver. You could probably disassemble the detector and take it to shows or set one up at a show for people to test there stuff. Cool video
Good review of the EK family, weight of the item is always a key factor.
Always handle as many confirmed originals as possible.
yep,agree
Really helpfull, thanks.
no prob, thanks for your interest and comment
As a collector of long standing.
Rule 1. Do your homework.
Rule 2. Obey Rule 1.
In my Iron Cross I can get a sheet of paper between the black core and the silver frame and I can see a line between the two pieces of metal. The black seems totally black and I am not sure if it´s painted. It´s magnetic, but as you told in the comments not all was magnetic. In mine the hook of the pin is to the right side, but your first original was to the left, but the second original you showed is to the right as mine. Behind it is some marking like an S and then L59. I really hope mine is original. I hope you have time to tell how it can be. Thank you for this great video.
Maker mark l59 is alois rettenmeyer..it is quite common for the core to loosen from the frame...I have had some which moved considerably in the frame when touched
@@historicmilitaria1944 My core haven’t loosen from the core so I am little nervous if it’s a reproduction, but all the other things you told makes it seem to be an original.
Thank you for your fast answer.
that was interesting and educational, thanks mate, great vid.
thanks
Great video. I just bought a 1st class and out of 15 authentication videos I’ve watched, mine and your 1 here are the only ones I’ve seen without the makers mark on the pin. Mine has all the other indicators but I’m a little skeptical. I’ve also seen the real ones allow a piece of paper to slip between the iron plate and the silver frame. And mine can not do that.
Thanks ,the reason why you see more maker marked crosses is that they are more desirable to a collector than an unmarked example,so you will see more around in collections..the unmarked examples are not as desirable, a few companies made the unmarked crosses including the screwback version...iron crosses are now pushing 80 years old and over time there will be a gap where the silver frames meet the metal centre....they weren't made to have a gap....some crosses will have a gap,some wont
Great channel
Thanks for your interest and comment
@@historicmilitaria1944 collecting militaria since 1968.learned the hard way.
@JoeAmarone we've all done similar one way or another...its a never ending learning experience.
Thanks heaps for the info. So I have now been able to identify my WW1 Iron Cross a genuine but the iron insert has been painted black !
Nice,its not uncommon to find the centre has been painted
@@historicmilitaria1944
I have now removed all traces of paint back to the original black iron and the patina on the silver frame is untouched :)
Nice
BRAVO!
thanks a lot, I did not want to put you on the spot, they looked ok to me ,thankyou for taking the time much appreciated john
+John Pagden no prob..I reckon you can buy with confidence.
You need to re-shoot the video with latest camera to show fine details.
Not a bad idea,if I still possess the items..
Now I may not be robbed when I will bye a iron kross because what you have shoved me👍 L&R
+Bunker troll 81 thanks, this is a very basic guide, but should be enough for the novice.
Nice I wish I had an iron cross I love collectioning wwii stuff:)
just keep looking theres varying conditions and prices out there
C J Campbell yeah thanks the only problem is though is that I live in the US so it’s hard to find antiques like that her, but when I next travel to Europe, I’ll be on the lookout:)
here. www.wehrmacht-awards.com/forums/index.php
Informative. I have a class 1 iron cross in its box as well as some other Nazi medals. They are all genuine, they all came out of Berlin in 1945, all part of my Grandfather's "collection" He gave them to me back in the 60's.
nice, treasure them
like the video but not all iron crosses have iron core, early 2nd class did have zinc or brass core.
Absolutely true
I think that they were silver soldered together
I bought an iron cross ek1 from a seller that lives near narvik where the battle of narvik took place. Im confident cause the black chemical is worn and its brownish not silver and there isnt any problem everything looks well genuinly rusted :).
sounds like a nice piece
Hello there, really informative video thanks to that I've recently bought an iron cross myself. However, I'd like to ask a question since I'm sort of a loss over here. The one I bought only has visible lines between the corners of the cross and not on the ends, could polishing make the line less visible or could the one I bought be a repro?
hi.the lines should be uniform all around, there is a possibility tho that the rim,being silver,has been polished
Hello there, thanks for the reply I've bought a better lens to see the details more clearly and I am relieved to confirm your suspicion. Yes, the lines are uniform and yes the silver has been polished, making the lines at the rim barely visible. Mine was also stamped with L59, maker: Alois Rettenmaier it seems. Thanks for the video and personal help, I do appreciate it.
You should do a video on all the fakes combat badges! I went to an Antique Store in Reno and Roseville California and this one dealer is selling a lot of german combat badges. I looked at them and I can't believe there real. I know that a Fallschirmjager badge is around $600, and a Flak Badge around $300. But he has them marked at $85 and $95. He has quite a few and when I asked the employee about them she told me "oh he knows he stuff and only sell real items." After I told her the real prices and that the pins on the badges were wrong and that they are fakes, she gave me a dirty look! So I took out a real Destroyer Badge and compared it. The differences were so apparent! She was floored!
always informative thanks. Does the color on center steel piece ever lose there color besides rust due to being iron?
hiur can be found dulled due to former owners cleaning the silver frame with an abrasive and also in instances the colour can naturally age fade
@@historicmilitaria1944 Thank you...
Great tutorial on EK1’s. Thank you!
thanks, it gives a basic idea
Useful info if you are going to get a period piece.
Cheers cj just thought it would make a nice curiosity together they are both relic condition so may give it a try keep the vids coming best on you tube I've come across all the best for 2014
thanks for your comment and interest, and all the best to you and yours.
I've always wanted one of these. Happy 2014!
happy 2014 to you too.
Great vid, very well presented.
Hut, Stock, Gesangbuch, EK1
Those were a dime a dozen back then, still are.
Very interesting facts,only one i have is a lead replica of a 1914 ww1 cross i bought at a market in the1970's ;-)
thanks, it can be a minefield, as everyone wants a generic iron cross for their collection....replicas can go from really poor quality to excellent diestruck copies,particularly the ones coming from Germany and Poland....tho now some are filtering onto the market from Canada.
Very nice Iron crosses congratulation! :)
thanks
Hi Can you do a video on the 1957 Iron Cross First Class please?
If you're buying them at a flea market... those guys are basically carnies. They're almost all shady af. If it's under $500.... just walk away. You know it's a rip-off. Nobody would sell a real one for, say, $100, or less. Stop!
And even if he wants an appropriate price.... first study these things very well to know what to look for. Magnet test. The paper test. Etc.
Nice video mate! l also agree with you also l carry a metric small ruler with me as a rule of thumb with me is the center swastika is 11mm from point to point
excelente video super interesante
+Fausto Osorio Zuñiga thanks
Thanks for a great vid CJ, had checked out a few crosses both 1st & 2nd on lots of sites. One seller on ioffer has a few near perfect ones but none show the fine line between front and back pieces so think they are fakes. Not even sure where the seller is from so will leave well alone as heard that US sellers non too reliable with no provenance. Thanks again.
Thanks for your swift reply, I live in the lakes so dont really get out much to antique shops etc. I suppose most of the English sites like Liverpool Medals are legit, if you could recommend any that you know of to search through in the future I would be most grateful. D
Wow cheers bud, didnt expect that many, I have been collecting medals for a few years now, WW1 regular service medals for US & European allies, have got most of them now WW2 ones as well which are quite common as lots were made and not issued. On the whole they are quite reasonable in price except when it comes to Iron Crosses. Will just have to get my hand in my pocket for the last few, thanks very much for all your advice, in text and video they are much appreciated. David. (Jav is Cumbrian for David hence the handle)
Cool bud will check them out too.
hello yet a couple more questions, what are your thoughts about the cleaning of iron crosses , i do not mean cleaning the patina off the edges but the light dust you can get on the inner core , once again thankyou for your time john.ps what is the best way to mount iron crosses in a display cabinet.
+John Pagden hi, just a wipe with a microfiber cloth with nothing on it will do the job...in a wall mount cabinet its best to cut a small hole in the back cloth and slide the pin down it.
nice video mr campbell..interesting and well presented..but there is a slight thing i differ one..you mention that if the swas/date is shiny then its a dud...and i see where you are coming from..but there are a few ek1's and 2's out there that do have a shiny swas centre due to the fact that the soldier who was awarded it removed the paint to make the swastika stand out more
my local dealer has a vaulted one with the paint on the was removed...if i could post a pic of it i would
all the best
Brian
My cross has all the features of a Genuine Iron Cross 2nd Class and the middle is magnetic (the ring for the Ribbon is not, nor the frame) , however the Swastika has a few chips in it that shows a slightly ages chrome like color. However I do not see any paint on the frame.
It does have everything you said is Genuine other then the small small chips in the edge of the Swastika not sure if that's just because of age or if its fake.
+Zac nothing to worry about, it will be genuine,they don't all exhibit rust to the metal frame where the paint may be missing,yours has this effect due to handling.
Sweet okay thanks I panicked for a while haha, Thanks for the video and the guide!
Zac no prob, thanks for your interest
so for the real one u need 1 silver line at the side ?
the real ones are seperate in 2-3 halfs and the fake ones are 1 full piece of iron?
am i right or am i wrong?
What about the German World War II Naval Kriegmarine 1st Class Iron Cross? The swastika is gold. I see one for sale and the gold is partially wore off and it appears silver underneath. And it appears to have layers pressed together.
not heard of that one.......I do know the KM had in some cases a brass centre instead of iron which was then blackened.
hello i have been looking on hiscoll militaria ,have you looked on his web sight if so what do you think, he has 80 crosses some maker marked some not, sorry for all the questions but i do not have your knowledge john.
+John Pagden hi, yep, they are all good examples.
Hi cj non item related question but I'm after your knowledge would the woodwork from a k98 fit roughly on to Mauser 98 from ww1 stupid question but would appreciate your help love your reviews cheers
hi, ,the woodwork which has the butt MAY fit. but the other woodwork items are not interchangeable..the top wood from a k98 is bigger than that of the ww1 98,the top wood from a k98 would need a large amount of cutting to fit the ww1 98.
Thank You!
Heard that the swastika is actually lower than the surrounding raise on repros and the weight also, is this true?
on all originals the swastika and the silver rim should be the same height, weight will not decide a repro as some originals had painted brass centres, so a painted brass centre original and a blackened iron centre original will differ in weight, however they will both be original.
Hi I have an ID and a wristwatch for a German Nazi soldier who served in Africa and I want information about them please
Where can I send you pictures?
I recently bought a ww1 iron cross screw back directly from Germany on Ebay.
How do I tell if it is fake vs real??
without seeing it, hard to tell, various screw back iron crosses are faked, these come in from poland.
@@historicmilitaria1944 do yo have an email or Facebook page?
I could send you a photo, I tried the magnetic test and it seems to stick but I still have concerns.
@@Hydra_studios hi sadly no, suggest perhaps you do a youtube vid,
I have a iron cross I have just picked up it is the same on the front as on the back I was looking at your video and they all seem to have flat backs can y help
Do you see the makers mark, and the thin line on the sides like he showed ? If so its probably real but hard to tell without pics.
It's the strangest thing, everyone knows the Nazis were terrible people and the vast majority of us never want what went on in Nazi Germany to ever happen again but we have this fascination with Nazi items especially iconic items from the uniforms like the various orders of Iron Crosses and stahlhelms.
you gotta admit it , Hugo Boss knew how to design a good looking uniform
I think the First Piece is a C.F Zimmermann maker.
Hi was the iron cross 1870 a 3 piece construction and how are they worth thanks
hi, it was indeed a 3 piece construction,i have no idea as to current value, also, some will be slight larger than others by a few mm,
@@historicmilitaria1944 yeh I seen a couple on Ebay ,that are still on sale. £15.00 onwards bidding. They look the real deal but are fakes, reproduction.
Thanks for the video! Might I ask what book would you recommend for someone beginning to collect? Particularly 1870s and 1914s.
hi, look for a secondhand copy of the book "Military Collectables" by joe Lyndhurst...if you type it into the youtube searchbar you will find my review of the book.
"the iron time" by stephen previtera. warning, it's not cheap. but it's loaded with info. I own a copy. www.amazon.com/Iron-Time-History-Cross/dp/0967307007
I am 9 minutes through, and it would of been better to focus first then talk, just constructive criticism, camera moving is a no no. cannot see any details properly that you were talking about in saying that I have several that I purchased 20 years ago in Australia and from what you are saying I have the real deal. Thanks.
Are there 3-piece fakes?
I just purchased a cross in the back it just says Germany wish I could get more information does anybody know where I can get more information about this cross
could be a servicemans commercial souvenir....an original would not have that on it
I've got a blue "mothers cross" any idea what it's worth ? thanx
+796andy2 is it gilt,silver or bronze class...and what does the inscription say on the back...
Good vid.
Where do you think is reputable place to buy an original iron cross buddy?
depends where you are on the planet...if youre in the UK then M and T militaria are a good bet...they are online if youre not in the uk, and they offer a lifetime guarantee of originality.
wehrmacht-awards.com or germanwarbooty.com
Tose dealers who KNOWINGLY sell repro"s as originals, should be exposed and banned from trade/militaria fairs
i agree, but some deliberately word their ads to kind of try to put over that they dont know what they are selling
@@historicmilitaria1944 If they do not know what they are selling, they cannot be very good dealers!
Hey there C J, is there any way to cantact you via Email or Facebook?
Hi Where do you think is best online site to buy original..I m from india.i can't find anything here.
suggest you look at M and T militaria, based in the uk, a little expensive but you buy from them with a lifetime guarantee of originality
C J Campbell thank you sir
Hard to find these in America
I think the likes of a proper third reich dealer will be a better source,its strange they are not common in USA
These are all good tips CJ but unfortunately it's not enought.. there are very good fakes out there, personally I think nothing beats knowledge of good reference books and even with that many experts sometimes do get scammed.
I do like the t shirt i'm not into the TV show just like the shirt...
thanks, unfortunately its since died in the washing machine....will have to get another!!
:-0
I was thinking for you just two days ago as I got a Chrismas card from 1929 off e-bay I wanted it so bad as the name J.L.Hayman is in Aeroplane mag Aug 2011 39 bomber Squ ( Battle Honours Defenders of the North West Frontier 1929-39 ) It says "Passage to India"...left Bircham Newton Dec 28th 1928 for the 21day voyage to Karachi after the Bay of Biscay seasickness afflicted 90% of them and the squ also thought it had lost an airman overboard when LAC (is that leading aircraftman cadet ? ) maybe guner ? ''Tubby Hayman mysteriously disappeared his loss was just about to be reported to the Air Ministry when he was found unconscious jammed between the bulkead and side of the ship (MV Nevasa with 1.400 soldiers and airman on board ) At the time they were still flying the Westland Wapiti 11A there's a photo of one in the card and it says Risalpur NWFP so i''m thinking that there's only one Hayman on this Squ two it was sent by him back home 39 Squ got to Port Said on January 1929 then got to Karachi on the 19th then on to Drigh road airfield.It was the first story I'd ever read in Aeroplane or in any mag July 2011.The things I'd like to know if you can help me are were can I find out more about Hayman two any help in putting it on you tube i.e what to say about and how I can find out more Ta C.J from your biggest fan Andy also can send you photos of it some how then you can see it with your own eyes :-)
What is it when it doesn't have anything in the middle
either a copy, or a federal west german 1957 issue..all iron crosses, does not matter when issued ,should always have something on the black cross bit
Good lord, NO. No, the 1957 Iron Crosses had the oak leaf spray in the center(on the obverse) as well as the 1939 date at the bottom. Any Iron Crosses without "anything in the middle" are either 1813 awards and are rare as hen's teeth. Or, if they don't have ""anything in the middle" but have the date of "1813" on the bottom they are the reverse of either 1939 or 1957 awards. See here: [url=imgur.com/JcjqVa9][img]i.imgur.com/JcjqVa9.jpg[/img][/url]
can you buy mic
Real ones are magnetic ....iron
not necessarily...some centres were made of zinc, some brass, so will in some cases not be magnetic, the term "Iron" cross does mean the centre was originally made of iron, but some late war examples and private purchase pieces were not.
Then I have 6 original knights crosses
@@bishomti A Knights Cross is only authentic to me,when it has the Award Documents with it.....Not many were awarded like EK 1 and 2 Class..
Listen to Victoria Cross Podcast at:
podcasts.apple.com/au/podcast/victoria-cross/
player.whooshkaa.com/victoria-cross
facebook.com/VictoriaCrossPodcast/
Rudimentary and not wholly accurate. You are tackling a subject with so many considerations and facets you can not paint them with a broad brush as you do. You are OK on some of the basics. Why would you use such a poor original as an example???
Maybe that’s all he has in his Collection?