I've used BarKeeper's many times on everything from brass parts to a stainless steel kitchen sink and it does kick butt. However, in a pinch, water alone seems to work just fine. I had some oxidized brass parts recently...hood ornaments from which the chrome plating had already peeled away. A little wet sanding with fine grits (I'm talking 1500-10000 grit) can accomplish quite a bit. In a couple tougher areas I was able to use 600-1000 grit without significantly altering the surface. The result was a mirror finish with zero polish. There are two excellent tricks for keeping uncoated brass looking great for long periods. The first trick is something I learned during my time in the Army. Wipe a thin film of lighter fluid (yes, you read that correctly) or mineral oil on the surface of the brass. That'll slow down the oxidation process and keep it looking nicer for longer periods between full cleanings. The second trick is to use a product such as ProtectaClear formulated for use over bare metals, including highly polished metals. In this case, do your full-on thorough cleaning and polishing first because you're about to clear coat the results. So, if you miss a spot, you'll end up clear-coating over it and you definitely do not want that to happen. Then brush on or spray on the product. It self-levels to a clear finish and you'll never have to mess with it again. You will not be able to tell the difference between highly polished bare metal and highly polished with a clear coat. I've used this on indoor and outdoor brass and stainless. Not enough time has elapsed for me to make any claims about long-term outdoor use (especially as far as UV yellowing), but for something like that collectible Stanley which probably spends most of its life inside, it's a perfect application.
I really appreciate this video. I’ve done some brass era cars here at the shop, and I know exactly what you’re talking about. Ha ha! Repairing and polishing stainless steel is even worse because of how hard it is.
I was trying to find the original video you did of these cars to show a friend who had never been introduced to the world of detailing, but they aren't there anymore. I thought I was crazy. I guess you unlisted them? It was a really great video!! And you have an additional fan now! [:
As someone who named his company Copper and Brass this is the video for me! What I’d like to know is: did you find a way to protect the Brass from becoming dull again? I manufacture keychains from copper and brass and have tried so many things. Even ceramic coating. Maybe you know something in that regard :) as always thanks for your inspirational work!
@Copper and Brass Have you looked at Permalac Clearcoats? I've used their original satin formula on bare copper. The piece I used it on is still bright and shiny after sitting outside for the past 2 years. It's pricey stuff but I would use it again. The coating is thin and barely noticeable. After watching Larry polish all that brass, I'd want to coat it.
Pretty awesome, my uncle used to restore old horse drawn carriages as a hobby/ business and some of them used to have some really elaborate brass lanterns I wish I could remember what he used but I remember the results were crazy good unfortunately he’s not around anymore to ask him
This actually removes the copper from the brass and leaves the Zink unprotected so that it will get dull again quicker. Never dull is good for chrome surfaces from what I understand
@@copperandbrass I'd never heard that and I can't find anything that would verify your statement. Never dull and bar keepers friend aren't polishes, they are cleaners and whatever you use your going to need to use something to protect the surface from tarnishing.
@@erictheviking7646 Never-dull is a chemical saturated cotton wadding, that removes tarnish on metals without removing the metals. And leaves a protective coating after wiping off. However abrasive type cleaners (Brasso) will remove metal. Abrasives are used for existing scratches and swirls and can be used with mechanical tools to buff to a polished shine depending on grit size.. If you fail to clean the surface of grit, the never-dull will impregnate that grit in the cotton and produce scratches and swirls thus removing metals. So yes, shipmate I would use Never--dull. On smooth surfaces free of grit and casting marks.
My uncle has had a brass shop for almost 40 years. I had him watch this and he just shook his head. haha. We get the context and understand the job scope in the video. However, if you have something of this importance.....PLEASE take it to a professional brass polishing shop (iF you can find one in your area).
Do you clean the wads and pads when they turn black and get super dirty or do you just keep cleaning with them when they turn black? They do turn dirty pretty quickly. If you do clean them how do you?
I would have never though of using Bar Keepers Friend in my garage! I use it for my pots and pans and its absolutely phenomenal so it would make sense in this application too. I have found that using the liquid version I get better results than the powered version. It's less abrasive in my opinion and works better for polishing uses. Fantastic video Larry!
How come the full video on the regular channel has been unlisted?
I've used BarKeeper's many times on everything from brass parts to a stainless steel kitchen sink and it does kick butt.
However, in a pinch, water alone seems to work just fine. I had some oxidized brass parts recently...hood ornaments from which the chrome plating had already peeled away. A little wet sanding with fine grits (I'm talking 1500-10000 grit) can accomplish quite a bit. In a couple tougher areas I was able to use 600-1000 grit without significantly altering the surface. The result was a mirror finish with zero polish.
There are two excellent tricks for keeping uncoated brass looking great for long periods. The first trick is something I learned during my time in the Army. Wipe a thin film of lighter fluid (yes, you read that correctly) or mineral oil on the surface of the brass. That'll slow down the oxidation process and keep it looking nicer for longer periods between full cleanings.
The second trick is to use a product such as ProtectaClear formulated for use over bare metals, including highly polished metals. In this case, do your full-on thorough cleaning and polishing first because you're about to clear coat the results. So, if you miss a spot, you'll end up clear-coating over it and you definitely do not want that to happen. Then brush on or spray on the product. It self-levels to a clear finish and you'll never have to mess with it again. You will not be able to tell the difference between highly polished bare metal and highly polished with a clear coat. I've used this on indoor and outdoor brass and stainless. Not enough time has elapsed for me to make any claims about long-term outdoor use (especially as far as UV yellowing), but for something like that collectible Stanley which probably spends most of its life inside, it's a perfect application.
Just a thought. Since this metal will oxidize untreated/protected/sealed. Would you apply gelee pro to slow down oxidizing process?
Mother’s wheel and chrome cleaner works supper well. I use it on antique brass clock parts
I really appreciate this video. I’ve done some brass era cars here at the shop, and I know exactly what you’re talking about. Ha ha! Repairing and polishing stainless steel is even worse because of how hard it is.
Great stuff Larry, Thanks for having this channel where you actually have information that isn't found on many other channels. You're the best.
Glad to help!
Hi. I recommend the flitz Polish if you haven’t tried that yet. I been using it for a while now and it works fantastic. I love your channel 😀👍
I got to see a Standly Steamer at the Fountainhead Museum in Fairbanks, AK.
I am in the navy, I needed this!
Yeah same dog haha trying to make that shit shine ✨
I was trying to find the original video you did of these cars to show a friend who had never been introduced to the world of detailing, but they aren't there anymore. I thought I was crazy. I guess you unlisted them? It was a really great video!! And you have an additional fan now! [:
Hey the link is in this video. Will be re uploading soon thx.
As someone who named his company Copper and Brass this is the video for me! What I’d like to know is: did you find a way to protect the Brass from becoming dull again? I manufacture keychains from copper and brass and have tried so many things. Even ceramic coating. Maybe you know something in that regard :) as always thanks for your inspirational work!
What about clear coat (spray paint or pulver)?
@@blockbertus should work. You’d basically block the access to air and therefore stop oxidation
@@copperandbrass Some people use a clear lacquer. If you lacquer them, it is a bit risky to light the lights as they get quite hot
@Copper and Brass Have you looked at Permalac Clearcoats? I've used their original satin formula on bare copper. The piece I used it on is still bright and shiny after sitting outside for the past 2 years. It's pricey stuff but I would use it again. The coating is thin and barely noticeable. After watching Larry polish all that brass, I'd want to coat it.
Thanks Larry !!!
Pretty awesome, my uncle used to restore old horse drawn carriages as a hobby/ business and some of them used to have some really elaborate brass lanterns I wish I could remember what he used but I remember the results were crazy good unfortunately he’s not around anymore to ask him
In the Navy we use a product called Never Dull for all the brass.
This actually removes the copper from the brass and leaves the Zink unprotected so that it will get dull again quicker.
Never dull is good for chrome surfaces from what I understand
@@copperandbrass I'd never heard that and I can't find anything that would verify your statement. Never dull and bar keepers friend aren't polishes, they are cleaners and whatever you use your going to need to use something to protect the surface from tarnishing.
@@erictheviking7646 I’ve talked to a chemist about it. He could be wrong but it matches my experience and tests with never dull.
@@erictheviking7646 Never-dull is a chemical saturated cotton wadding, that removes tarnish on metals without removing the metals. And leaves a protective coating after wiping off. However abrasive type cleaners (Brasso) will remove metal. Abrasives are used for existing scratches and swirls and can be used with mechanical tools to buff to a polished shine depending on grit size.. If you fail to clean the surface of grit, the never-dull will impregnate that grit in the cotton and produce scratches and swirls thus removing metals. So yes, shipmate I would use Never--dull. On smooth surfaces free of grit and casting marks.
Very helpful.Thank You. Thought I have seen you use FLITZ in the past and wondering why you didn't have it also at your work table to try?
My uncle has had a brass shop for almost 40 years. I had him watch this and he just shook his head. haha. We get the context and understand the job scope in the video. However, if you have something of this importance.....PLEASE take it to a professional brass polishing shop (iF you can find one in your area).
Jesus Larry... breathe! JK. Dont change a thing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
After you finish cleaning with bar keepers friend or brasso do you apply any protectant on the brass?
Do you clean the wads and pads when they turn black and get super dirty or do you just keep cleaning with them when they turn black? They do turn dirty pretty quickly. If you do clean them how do you?
Smother it in ketchup acid will make it shinny like a new penny!
A penny now is actually copper jacketed zinc.
I would have never though of using Bar Keepers Friend in my garage! I use it for my pots and pans and its absolutely phenomenal so it would make sense in this application too. I have found that using the liquid version I get better results than the powered version. It's less abrasive in my opinion and works better for polishing uses. Fantastic video Larry!
👌🏼👌🏼
IYAAYAS
:)