Fermentation Under Pressure Easy Guide
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- This video looks at pressure fermentation in easy guide form so that no matter what your background is you should come away from watching it with a good understanding of the topic. This video gives key advice as to how to apply this to your fermentations along with lots of information as to why you would want to and what you will need to get started. It does not have to be expensive either and you might find that you already have much of what is needed already.
Channel links:-
groups/Brewbeer
www.teespring.com/stores/davi...
Introduction music:- Drink Beer (Till The Day That I Die) by Dazie Mae - Навчання та стиль
Unaware how YT sussed how I was getting into pressure fermentation, yet they did. Very helpful work there David. Thank you.
Hi Peter, I am sure they can read minds!! 😜.
Great to hear that this video was helpful.
🍻🍻🍻
Thanks for taking the time to make these guides (and product reviews), I'm very new to brewing but the wealth of information you provide is giving me a great foundation to start from.
All the best.
Thanks Stephen, Glad you are finding the videos useful :)
Thx David - cleared up a few conflicting stories I had heard about pressure fermenting cheers
That is great to hear Ken. Way too much bs out there sadly.
I'm just setting up my first pressure fermentation and this was really helpful. It's crazy to think I am just one of the 134k brewers world-wide who are learning from this video and we then further share our beers with our families and friends, probably millions are enjoying the work and effort you have put into your channel. I think it's not wrong to say that you are a rock star of craft beer.
Great stuff Terry, that is always very nice to hear 🍻🍻🍻
Well presented and easy straight to the point issues resolved. All my 'nightmares' about what to do with the Fermzilla answered. My preferred styles are Lagers, Hoppy beers and not too strong ales so I am ready to hit the brew now!!!
Thanks for sharing knowledge David!!!
From Scotland with love!!!
Awesome to hear David :) These are easy when you know how :)
Thank you for your work.
This info is all new to me and opens up a new way to brew, awesome.
Great to hear Tom, it sure is a great way to go :)
Thanks for the video. Contrary to the intuitive belief, I brew lager under pressure in the warm weather, and ales using furnace room control in the cold weather. Thank you for pointing out that ales suffer under pressure, as their "off-flavors" are a recognized advantage...
Thanks Will. Yes, these are all important points
Pressure fermentation is something I would like. This video has given me the way to do my next beer batch. You have been a great inspiration all the time I have seen your videos. Good job. :)
Great to hear Linda. Certainly its something I do recommend and use a lot myself too. Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Good stuff. It aligns with my experience. I typically use 15 psi with great results. I once fermented at about 20-25 psi and the FG finished a little higher than expected.
Many thanks Larry :)
Hi David, wonderful video as always. I just got myself the Cannular manual seamer, and am exploring my options for packaging further. My main issue is carbonation, and which route to take that will be most economical and repeatable. Here are my options:
1. Can condition beer, use a normal bottle filling wand and seam cans, leave at room temp for 1-2 weeks.
(not ideal because of the extended time required, as well as sediment in can which is less than ideal for drinking straight from the can.)
requires no extra equipment than I have currently. Trying to get away from this as a main source of carbonation.
2. Invest in a larger keg setup(right now I only have small kegs with mini co2 cartriges)
Get 5 Gal. Kegs, a c02 tank and a beer gun for counter pressure filling, force carb in keg then beer gun to cans.
3. Get involved in pressure fermenting and spunding to carbonate.
Get a fermzilla all-rounder, attempt to carbonate during fermentation with spunding valve, then transfer carbonated beer to cans
(I'm assuming I will also need a beer gun or counter pressure filler for this method? Will I also need a Co2 tank anyways? Kegs?)
What are your thoughts? Which of the 2 latter options is more economical or maybe easier? Initially I was thinking that getting into spunding may be easier and cheaper, but now it's seeming like the complete opposite. Maybe best to get a 5 Gallon keg and use it exclusively for force carbonating then immediately transferring? Sort of treating it like a bottling bucket? I really don't plan on using 5 gallon kegs to store and serve as I don't have the cold space long-term, but I could store one or two for a few days no problem.
Hi Liam, I am sorry but I must have missed this! I would say that out of those options number 3 is probably going to give you the best result for the money spent. You could then seek to move to option 3 later if you desire it.
Great info, picking up a Spike conical soon and can't wait to try this out! Cheers!
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks David, very useful video.
Great to hear Dan, much appreciated :)
Great video, David! Many thanks 😁
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
Another great video David, thank you. I combined this with you Czech Pilsner with Lallemand Kveik yeast. Worked perfectly for my daughters 21st birthday and many of the young people really enjoyed.
Great to hear Jason 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'm going to give a few more of your recipes a run now. Really looking forward to trying your American Pale Ale and the Verdant Tropical IPA.
Great to hear Jason. Last night I released my Verdant Tropical Pale ale recipe too 🍻🍻
Another interesting video thank you. As you know I'm new to this and every time I think I'm getting a handle on it you bring out another video which give me something else to think about haha Cheers :)
Thanks Paul :) Well, that is the thing with this in general. Various options with pros and sometimes cons.
Thanks for the great information.
Thank you, glad you found it useful
Thanks David! Another super useful video. I will try to use a comercial beer keg as a poor man presure fermentation equipment. Nice an cheap idea.
Great, thanks Marc, great to hear. Yes, always good when you try new things out with a minimal of extra cost :)
I cut 1 1/2 inch off the dip tube. This allows it to stay above the trub, and helps with clarity when counterpressure transferring to a serving keg...
Thanks David, again very interesting video! Just brewed on 1st September my Oktoberfestbier and fermented it under pressure in a NC keg with max of 2 bar at 24°C with the W34/70. Was a very interesting experiment - came out very clean and after 2 1/2 days first fermentation was done. After cold crash at 2°C, botting and storing cold at 2°C it's so clear and very clean. Really like that way how it goes. David, thanks for all the advice in your videos, learned allot from it! Cheers from Mallorca, Robert.
Thanks Robert. Yes it sure is a game changer :)
another great one DH!
Thank you :)
Attempting my first ever brew this weekend using a keg King Apollo Unitank. Wish me luck!
Good luck! 🍻🍻🍻
Hello David, thanks for another great video. I am interested in fermenting under pressure and have just started to ferment in my soda kegs. That spunding valve that you showed in the video would be perfect. Would you have a video or know of one that shows how to build something like that? Thanks for all the great information you contribute to the homebrew society!
Great :) That one is sold as is just without the keg connection. Ive just picked up another type to test also.
swchampi you can go to homebrewfinds.com and search spunding valve
Thanks for the vid Dave, you have inspired me to to go blow the top off some buckets. Let's see how cheap I can make a fermentation vessel that will hold at least 20 psi hmmmm.
Haha sounds good. Kegs are a great option :)
Thank you David.
Always Nice videos😊
If I understand you right. You recommend all ale fermentation without pressure before we are close to the FG in order to maximize esters production? So here we have to set the spunding valve almost open ?
So only lagers needs to be pressured at the beginning at the fermentation
Thanks Henrik. Almost :) Hoppy beers also benefit very nicely from pressure fermentation.
Very interesting and information as usual. I've been doing Belgian strong dark she's under pressure and still getting decent yeast esther characters. The point about shelf life is well taken and in my experience true. However, the truly great benefit of fermentation under pressure is that you can add a tap to the fermenter and drink your carbonated beer directly! Many a beer never made it to the keg!
Many thanks Michael. Yes, depending on the yeast, pressure level and when you introduce pressure all sorts of different results can be obtained. I agree that the unitank option is the main benefit. Nice and easy and plenty of benefits.
Informative video, thank you. What lager yeast do you use most when using this method?
Thank you. I really like 34/70 personally :)
I ferment under pressure to produce fizzy drinks . I feed the CO2 into a pepsy bottle containig still orange juice , shake pepsy bottle to help disolve CO2 (under pressure) after 20secs it's ready . At the moment I throw away the produced alcohol solution ! I use bakers yeast and white sugar . pressure has been upto 30psi , but works well at down to 5psi. A bit tricky getting pressure proof joint onto pepsy bottle top.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Dear David
As the homerewer novice i am, I recently participated in a beer brewing course in a home brewing shop close to My home (My local Malt pusher, if you will). Our host, had great knowledge about brewing, as a former employee of a microbrewery in Copenhagen. At some point I asked about pressurized fermentation, and I was sorry to learn the he wouldent recommend it, as the method imposed a risk of getting -"flat" beer, in his opinion. His opinion was especially demotivating, as My first investment in beer brewing was a fermenzilla with pressureregulation and a Itap....
Now I'm putting My Faith in you to reassure me, that it is possible to maintain an acceptable level of fermentation, when bottling carbonated beer, and perhaps to provide me with some tips and tricks to do so successfully.
Im looking forward to your answer, (and to more of your enjoyable informative videos of course)
Best regards
Kristjan Geirsson
Hi, I am somewhat confused by this claim of flat beer. Fermenting under pressure provides a head start to carbonation. It is also a method that is incredibly popular in breweries and for homebrewers.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew apparently the bottling proces should loose some of the carbonation obtained in the fermenter?
If you pressure ferment then you can serve from the same vessel. Or fully carbonate before transferring into bottles.
Thanks a lot for the insight. I had to read all the comments to find what my question was. I have a closed ss conical fermenter which I believe was designed for low pressure (got a deal). Pressure build up is a constant worry (use manual release) and since it does not have an opening for a spunding valve it seems that drilling an extra hole in the lid is required (beside the hop hole). I don't use kegs, for various reasons, and so would a direct connection to the fermenter be the best solution. Or status quo?
Certainly be careful here.
Inspiring as always David I may have to source a good used keg and build a spunding valve to try this.
Great to hear Mark, thank you :)
I have the spike flex plus. It has a pretty high price tag but it was money well spent
I would love one! They are not sold outside the US sadly :(
David Heath Homebrew I got mine in Canada, Maybe not to Europe ?
I have made some very simple changes to my grainfather conical and have brewed 2 batches under pressure, but limiting it to 5psi. So far so good.
All I am going to say is "be careful", Grainfather advise against doing this.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have found that at 6psi it escapes around the lid seal - so reasonably comfortable with that and can still pressure ferment - user acknowledges all risks etc
Yes, this is the weakest point. Though at 5 PSI it is going to be rather limited sadly.
Do you find that 5 PSI is enough for pressure fermentation?
@@dusanstevanovic5494 it’s seemed to go fine, I actually got the pressure a bit higher, but due to issues with not being able to easily cold crash the Fermenter (no glycol chiller) I have now gone for a couple of king keg chubby FV.
Thanks David . Very useful video.
I ferment under pressure (10 psi) and it works wery well (Fermzilla)
Question : can I lower the temperature when I use kveik (Voss) and
ferment under pressure ? (Neipa).
This will vary depending on the kveik used. Some are happy at 20 or lower. Many are best at at least 30, with or without pressure.
Thanks for the video David. You mentioned that pressure fermentation does not work well with some yeast strains. Do you have a list of which strains I should take care with?
Thanks Chris :) I would love a list but ive not found one. The best way is to google a type of yeast for pressure results and see what comes back.
Hi David, thanks for another great video! Just one doubt, for carbonation 2.3 vol @ 20°C is a pressure of 24.5 PSI to be applied, that is higher than recommended max 15 PSI (l 15 PSI the beer would be under-carbonated, right?) Any advice how to solve this? to apply higher pressure just at the end of fermentation? Cheers
Hi :) Yes, you will need to finish off carbonation at lower temps but naturally you have a head start.
I have been pressure brewing for a while now and it's nice to have 50 liters drinkable in just on a week.
Yes, it sure is :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I think I might however do a brew at a lower pressure as I am doing mine at 30Psi or there abouts. See if I notice any difference in flavour.
John Eagle Generally 10-12 PSI is enough to remove all yeast flavour :)
I have just recently purchased a Fermzilla All Rounder. Going to be doing my first lager under pressure. I unfortunately don't have a CO2 tank so I can't pre-pressurize the vessel. I have pitched SafLager W‑34/70 into the wort at 23deg C (a bit high for my liking) and I have put some ice packs around the fermenter in the closed cupboard. I'm just hoping I won't get any off flavors produced as it leads up to pressure. Aiming for 10psi. 🤞🏻
Hey Travis, I would highly recommend getting one with a regulator. This adds cost, I know but is well worth it. You can then test that the Fermzilla holds pressure ahead and you can also accurately preset your spunding valve.
Thanks for the advice Sir, I will make a note of this👍🏻 I also need to invest in a keg, I'm tired of bottling as well 😅
@travis9611 🍻🍻🍻
Hi :) First of all Ilove your videos. Learned a lot! Little question: Can I use pepsi keg for pressure ferm.? It is 18 liters(I think?) How much should I fill it? 15liters? (maybe?) I already have spunding valve but don't have suitable fermenter. Thank you :)
From Turkey with love!
Hi :) Sure you can :) I suspect it is 19L. I would go a couple of litres lower. This will work nicely.
Hello.
The final bit of my Pressure Fermentation experiment will arrive tomorrow (a half inch Drill) and I will be brewing tomorrow. I will Pressure-Ferment in a 25L Cask with modified cap (a Keg Gas connection added to the existing S30 connection) and a Kegland Kit. Elsewhere you mention that Ale should be started after a couple of days. This will favour me because the head space in the cask is considerably less than a fermenter and I would want the first vigous ferment to subside a little. I intend to use the S30 connection to give a squirt of pressure to about 10psi (sorry I need a conversion calculator to get Pascals). Does this seem a reasonable approach?
The yeast will be either US-05 or S04 depending upon what my hand falls onto in the fridge :-), I have used either in the past. Oh! the brew is a Bitter, Old Thumper (David Wheeler recipe) which I have brewed often in the past and have gotten out of the habit of monitoring, to my embarrasment in admission. I can sample SG through the Cask Tap with a Refractometer so I will not lose valuable nectar :-).
Naturally I have a great deal of respect for your opinion in this and will report results although I think these will be difficult to evaluate except rate of SG change for instance. This is no way commits you btw :-).
Later I will experiment with a Kvick yeast, I have some ideas in mind.
Hopefully you monitor this.
James
Hi James. Yes this sounds good as long as the kegland kit is the spunding valve :)
Thank you for this David. I am inspired to try pressure fermenting in a corny keg. From what I find on the internet, in addition to the spundling valve, I also need to build a floating dip tube as well. I understand pressure fermenting reduces head space, but how much would I need in a corny keg? Should I aim for 17 liters in the keg, or more or less?
Glad you enjoyed it. A floating dip tube is a good addition , though cutting with dip tube down a little would help also. It really depends on the brew and yeast as to the need. You could also transfer off the trub into another keg or any other medium of your choice.
I transfer 20L of wort into my 23L corny kegmenters which leaves enough headspace. I've tried the KegLand floating dip tubes but discovered a cask widge is far better.
Interesting video David 👍 I came across the video when looking for info on counter pressure bottling from a brite tank. Just wondering if you any videos relating to that (wondering if it is better to "black" fill or not as I seem to be losing some carbonation)
Thanks Dale. Sadly not, I only recently reviewed the itap counter pressure bottle filler though:- ua-cam.com/video/4OH-VuR8sVQ/v-deo.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew great thanks I'll give it a watch
:)
Thanks David for the interesting video. Have a quick question, I'm thinking of drinking (pale ale} straight from the pressure fermentor (corny keg)with a floating dip tube and skip the transfer. How long would you leave it fermenting at 18c, before conditioning, what would be your best procedure from here? Do I just leave it for 3 weeks at 18c,or do I change the temperature at any point? Many thanks Rex
Hi and thank you 😎
Really its a question of the yeast you use and the type of recipe but any where up to 3 weeks but usually 7-10 days. Temperature will also be subject to yeast type. I include this information with my own recipes, so worth a look too 🍻🍻
Hi David, I'm going to have a go at pressure fermenting a Lager in large 23ltr steel Keg with a spunding valve.
Because the Lager will be fermented at say 18c rising to 20c, can I use less lager yeast say 1 packet instead of 2 due the warm growth factor?
How much space do I need say would be ok 20ltrs in a 23ltr keg? Regards M
Depends on the lager yeast, they will not all need two packs but if they are suggest then best to run with that.
fermenting something like voss kveik without pressure i aim for 30-35c temp - if going for 12PSI what temp change (if any) do i need to make? I see you said 25c.....
You can adjust the temp if you wish, its not so relevant to ale yeast, it will still ferment faster :) . Usually its a temp change upwards from the usual.
Great vid, any experience with Kveik under pressure?
Thanks Mel. Yes, the example shown was Voss Gjernes kveik. Works well :)
Hello David. I wonder if I should ferment a German pilsner under pressure, what temperature would you say I should ferment at? I'm fermenting in a segment that you showed in the video.
Hi Lars, ambient temperature or beyond is possible:)
How do you measure gravity in preasure fermenting vesel? How can you tell the fermentation is finish when preasure fermenting? What temperature to use ?
Hi, I use floating hydrometer's like Tilt and Float. Temperature and pressure will vary according to the yeast. If you join the channels Facebook group then there is a shared excel sheet with lots of data of yeast types and peoples experiences.
Does this mean you can also have a lower pitching rate of lager yeast or should you still have the same pitching rate as if you were fermenting cold?
The same pitching rate as normal :)
What's the maximum quantity of beer you'd recommend fermenting under pressure in a corny keg? And would this differ according to style (say an ale and a lager)?
I would give a 19L corny 2L of space as a minimum personally. I would also be sure to use a spunding valve.
I pressure fermented a vienna lager at 64 f under 13 psi pressure. I used 2 packets of Lallemand Diamond yeast. My question is that the beer has been fermenting for 10 days and the fv reading is 1.018 with an
expected fv of 1.010. Any thoughts on what my next step should be?
Sounds like it is stuck. I would give the fermenter a gentle rocking left to right, front to back to rouse the yeast back into play.
Excellent video David thank you. When brewing a hoppy IPA, would you just connect a blow off tube, as normal, then remove and attach your Spunding valve later in the process, when would you do this and for how long would you leave it connected, would the beer be carbonated to enable canning at the end? I’d appreciate any advice
Thanks Alfie. It depends really. If you are using a neutral yeast then its fine to pressure ferment from the start. You will find though that to carbonate you will need to reduce temperature lower than normal fermentation temps to keep a sensible (10-12 PSI) level of pressure.
Thank you very much for the answers, that’s very helpful, cheers David
Great to hear 🍻🍻🍻
Does this work both ways with temperature control? I ferment in the garage and the temp is always lower than the preferred yeast temperatures.
No, sadly not :)
David, Thanks so much for all you do. I learn so much and you've made me a better brewer for sure. I have a couple of quick questions: I bought a aeration/whirlpooling paddle to attach to my drill and I think it's definitely helped with getting better attenuation. Do you run the paddle for the whole whirlpool time (ie 15 mins) for that hop addition or do you give it a rest now and then? When aerating, how long is it necessary to run the paddle to get good aeration? Also, I got a tremendous unpleasant bitterness to my last pressure fermented lager even though I didn't add hops until 45 mins into the boil - I wonder if I aerated too long? I used only pilsener malt and Sabro hops. Thank again!
Great to hear James 🍻
For a drill mounted paddle a few minutes will be enough really. Has this over bitterness lasted long? It can occur in early beers and disperse.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew It may be getting a little better. I guess I'll keep drinking it and see 😊
How young is it?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I did a closed transfer to keg and put it in my kegerator 2 weeks ago. I may have transferred a bit of trub into the new keg which might have contributed to the bitterness - I’m still getting used to my gen 3 65l brewzilla. It is definitely getting better. I drank some happily last night. 😊
Its unlikely that it would contribute to bitterness in all honesty. It might effect clarity abit but I would suggest going this route:- ua-cam.com/video/qheb2Hy8Obg/v-deo.html
Thanks for this video David. If you don´t mind my question: What was the point of fermenting with kveik under pressure? I mean, this yeast doesn´t need cool temps and it does not produce much esters, so other than the carbonation and avoiding contamination, was the flavor of the beer changed? If yes in what way. Thanks
Thanks Janus. I like to experiment. I have found that it saves 50% fermentation time and is cleaner straight away with Voss Gjernes.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Remarkable! Thanks a lot for your kind reply.
Hi David, thanks for this great vide - As always, your stuff is very helpful. I just brought myself a pressure fermenter yesterday (KEGLAND FERMZILLA) and was wondering about what I can and cant do in terms of a pressure ferment, is there a "list" of yeasts that dont work well? I want to do a brew and only have US04 in my fridge.....
Also, is there a general rule of thumb for pressure fermenting in terms of the number of days it should ferment for? I live in KZN, South Africa so it gets pretty warm here in summer...my "brewery" sits at about 21 - 24 degress room temp depending on the day.
Hi Mark, great to hear that you find my content helpful :)
Ive not found any yeast that will not work with 10-12 PSI of pressure. You will find that pressure speeds the process along but like normal fermentation there are different factors that change the process time. The use of a hydrometer is still the way to establish a finished fermentation. The Fermzilla will allow you to see what is happening too, which can also be a useful guide.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew awesome!! Thanks for your advice David!!
Cheers Mark 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David. Long time listener, first time caller... I was thinking about using a spunding valve with my grainfather (flat bottom, not conical) fermenter. Not for the benefits of fermenting under pressure, but rather as a method of avoiding oxygen contamination when cold crashing. My thinking is that I could store co2 in the fermenter under pressure so that it could subsequently counteract the cold crash vacuum. You said that the GF conical can only hold 1.5 PSI; would that be sufficient to fulfil my concept, or is this a (nice) idea that won't work? Many thanks!
Great to hear and thanks for your message :) I am not sure if the fermenter you mention is going to be suitable. I do not think it has a pressure rating. A cheap solution would be an S airlock that will offer some protection or a Plaato Valve as shown in this video for a still cheap really but better solution:- ua-cam.com/video/ngLLz3-a8PI/v-deo.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. I really appreciate your response. I like the look of the plato valve, and think I'll try to connect it to a co2 capture bag so it draw that co2 back in at cold crash / bottling time. thanks again.
'
Do you ever make wine kits if you do can you post a video of you doing one
I mostly make wine with fruit. I have been considering a video about that.
Will it be fine if I ferment wort with some ale yeasts in 22C - 23C ? Will there be huge esters ?
Many will be forgiving at those temps. Kveik would be perfectly fine :)
Does pressure fermented lager beer need to be stored ice cold for a longer period of time to gain a better taste if I first clear the beer with gelatin at 0 degrees Celsius for a few days? Currently I am fermenting under 10PSI pressure in 18 liter Cornelius kegs two lager beers that are the same in all aspects apart from the yeast where I have used two lager yeasts, Fermentis Safale S-23 & White Labs WLP 800.
Lagering is a normal process to condition lagers. For some two weeks or even less is enough but it will vary.
What were your thoughts on any lagers you might have made using this method vs classic lager method? The only videos/ reports of tasting lager brewed in this way have come from people blatantly trying to sell me a fermzilla, and I could swear they winced as they took a sip but reported it was great... Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
Hi J B, Fermentation under pressure, be it in a keg or a product like a Fermzilla or similar is a great way to go with lagers. This is used in commercial breweries as well as homebrewers. I highly recommend it personally.
David, do you add CO2 to the vessel before you add the beer? Also do you constantly check the pressure? The Spunding valve should be releasing the pressure without having to check correct? Thanks in advance.
The CO2 is added after the beer is transferred. I weigh it in using a manometer to the correct level to set up the spunding valve. You should not need to check it after this.
Hi there about brewing an oatmeal stout using s05 ale yeast can I use a pressurised conical fermenter and if so how to aerate it if there is a need to
Ps how affective are they are they worth the money thanks
Hi Jack, Fermentis do not recommend aeration with their yeast but you can certainly use pressure. This is going to be very effective at 10-12 PSI. You can also use a higher than usual temperature.
Hello. I'm an intermediate novice at brewing and I'm trying to see if I can build my own pressure fermenter. So I don't keg, I only bottle. If I wanted to pressure ferment, could I do so then after the few days it takes to ferment, release the pressure for a few days to make the beer go flat again to have a better hold on not overcarbonating in bottle?
Yes, by releasing pressure over time you can gradually remove pressure. Though the easy way is to bottle with pressure via a counter pressure bottling product.
Hello,
in the chapter of „When to add pressure“ you said:
„when it comes to Lager yeast this is usually done right at the start of fermentation“
Is this right after transfering the wort into the fermenter, or do I have to wait until I see bubbles, indicating my yeast has started working?
Best Regards and thanks in advance!
Hi,
You can add pressure and set up your spunding valve right after wort transfer 🍻🍻🍻
I wonder Dave, when making a lager/pilsner under pressure, do you still use the same amount of yeast as when fermenting it with an airlock/cold? Or can you cut down on the yeast since its fermenting warmer?
Hi Fredrik, I suggest using the same pitching rate.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew so, you recommend still doing a
Yeast starter?
Only if yeast the yeast age is of concern
thanks
You're welcome! :)
What do you say about using a King Keg Pressure barrel as a pressure fermenter, or am I completely barking! I realise it is not conical but it does have a dimpled bottom! If it is worth a try how would you modify the cap with a spunging valve etc?
Very limited sadly. You would be better off with a Fermzilla all rounder in the end.
Thank you for the very informative video. David you usually say one should leave the beer for a couple of days (usually 5) after fermentation for the yeast "to clean up after itself". Will this step also be necessary when fermenting under pressure?
Hi Ruan, yes giving the yeast 2-3 days after fermentation is good practise under pressure too.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you Sir!
🍻🍻🍻
Thank you for your video, very helpful. If fermenting under pressure reduces ester production, does that mean it's not suitable for styles where esters are desired like some Belgian beers or hefeweizens?
Yes exactly. Fermentation under pressure is really for hoppy beers or lagers.
I'll add a variable to David's answer, as a very long term experimenter with hefeweizens the best results are ferment at low pressure for the first 80-90% and finish in a keg with natural carbonation (you will need to bleed the keg occasionally or use a spunding valve) which will also trap the esters/phenols, particularly 4-vinyl guaiacol
Interesting. How do you find this improves the style?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew The esters and phenols that give hefeweizens their unique flavours/aromas are quite volatile and the CO2 outgassing during ferment can 'scrub' them - historically the Germans/Austrians used shallow fermentation tanks. I found that trapping some of them in the keg near the end of the fermentation gave me a beer closer to the fresh from tap German/Austrian hefeweizens.
Awesome, thanks for sharing, much appreciated 🍻
If pressure fermenting enables fermentation at higher temperatures due to lower esters, is there not still a risk of fusel alcohols?
No. Pressure takes care of that :)
How long do you think you could serve from the fermenting vessel before the yeast cake starts throwing off flavor due to autolysis?
This seems to be very much subject to taste.
Personally ive not had issues but these will last 4-6 weeks before drunk . I have thirsty friends!
Does pressure fermentation mean you hook up a co2 bottle to the fermenter and leave it on during the whole fermentation? Or do you just charge the fermentor with 10-12 co2 and remove the co2 bottle?
You can precharge the pressure, though many will just allow it to build naturally via the yeast. Anything excess is blown off by the spunding valve.
Hi, David! I’m wondering if you have some experience from dry hopping pre carbonated beer with loose hop pellets? I’m thinking it would be nice to be able to use the fermentation pressure to carbonate hoppy beers before adding the hops.
It is very unlikely that you will have a full carbonation level at this stage. This is due to the temperature of fermentation vs the acceptable level of pressure for the health of the yeast. Hope this helps :)
David Heath Homebrew But isn’t the last points down to FG bringing the beer it’s final carbonation volume? Perhaps I won’t ferment under high pressure, but rather increase the pressure in the end of fermentation, and after the FG is reached - dry hop?
No, you will need to finish off carbonation usually after fermentation and at lower temps.
Thanks for the great vid! I have a couple questions for you if you don't mind .
If you were to brew an neipa or a neiipa, using a basic setup (stainless steel brew kettle, bucket fermeter, auto siphon for bottling etc) what would you do to prevent oxidation in this beer?
I am just looking to see if it ks possible tonavoid oxidation for an neipa without pressure fermentor. Especially since i plan on making a 2.5 gallon batch of it, and using a 5 gallon fermentation bucket. Thank you!!
Thank you and no problem. I would simply avoid anything that could start oxidation. So this would be splashing or stirring essentially of the beer during and after fermentation.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew awesome , so other than dry hop additions, leave the beer alone as much as possible, and the only major movement should be when bottling?
Still either way oxygen exposure is inevitable, and that being the case would you say the beer would still have a decent life span in the fridge before major damage is done?
Yes. The key here is that unless you do something to introduce much more oxygen, your beers are still going to last some months before signs of oxidisation creep in within a keg. Ive got beer in bottles that has lasted well for past 1 year also, some strong styles for several.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Have you ever come across a device to help remove oxygen in the wand bottling process, David?
At the moment I fill the bottles to the allowed head space, and then sit sterilized caps on them. I keep filling other bottles and listen for the cap to start popping on the bottle rim - suggesting gas is being pushed out and that inside pressure is becoming positive.
I then attach the cap to the bottle.
No but as long as you do not splash then you should be fine.
If I pressure ferment in a keg, how does one go about taking gravity readings? I plan to build an ispindel at some point
An iSpindel should work, as long as the wifi signal strength allows it. Floating hydrometers are really you best option. I have a comparison guide coming for these soonish.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I will be on the lookout. I'm brewing a kolsch this weekend so I think I'm just gonna give it a few days to ferment and degas it and check if there's a krausen.
Great, hope it goes well for you.
Hi David and thanks for an interesting video! I am usually brewing double IPAs and use dry yeast. I just bought a Fermzilla 27 L with pressure kit. What pressure, fermentation temp. and time would you recommend to try out? My goal (beside oxygen free transfer and so on) is of course to reduce fermentation time, and carbonate during fermentation.
Great to hear, thank you. What type of dry yeast are you thinking to use?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi and thanks for replying quickly. I often use Safale S-04 or 05. However I have also used Magrove M44 and Lallemand Nottingham.
Any recomandations David?
Sorry I must have missed your reply. All of those work well with pressure. 3-5 deg c higher than the usual maximum is a good safe point. Always good to google for information on what others have tried. Personally I mostly just use kveik these days though :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks! It seems that recomended temp. for Safale S-04 is 15-24 degrees. Do you think 15 PSI and 22 degrees is okey, or would you try even higher temp?
Hi,
A long one this, sorry. I'm returning to home brewing after many years absence and after watching your excellent videos I wish to go along the lines of using a Robobrew-Brewzilla and a Fermzilla All Rounder for a pressure fermentation. However after re-reading my old CAMRA brew books by Graham Wheeler I found this statement below:
"The lid can be fitted to the bin until the yeast head has begun to form, then removed. When the head has established itself the surface will contain some dark floccules and trub brought up with the yeast. These should be skimmed off, taking care to cause the minimum of disturbance to the rest of the head. Many home-brewing books recommend frequent yeast skimming. I do not go along with this. I do not believe in continually interfering with the ale."
I can remember religiously skimming the top of the ale to prevent 'off flavours', but todays closed brew systems seem to totally ignore this requirement. Have things moved on to the extent that this process is no longer required or advisable? I probably need some new brew books geared at todays practices.
Everyone has their take on skimming. Its not very common these days. Ive not done it for a long time and have not missed it. Do some testing both ways and see what you think :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for this, at least I know I shan't be drastically wrong by not skimming, as you say time and tests will decide if I need to. Bob
Cheers Bob 🍻
I use a airlock for the 1st 3 days then add CO2 to my fermzilla, If no airlock I should just keep the pressure at 10 with my spunding valve?? I wasn't sure if that would work with the yeast. Love your video's and keep them coming. Cheers
You can open your spunding valve full, then it becomes like an airlock if you extend some hosing into some starsan in a glass :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew so I shouldn't keep the spunding valve part closed to keep it around 8-10 psi for the 1st 4 days?
You certainly can, it depends on the yeast you are using and if you want to stop the esters. Much of a yeasts ester flavours are put in place in the opening days of fermentation.
Hi David! My go to store Hembrygg in Sweden where Josh is recomended you to me! Great video! However. This may be a pretty stupid question but as i am just the definition of a beginner i'll ask anyway.
By death, do you mean death to human or to the yeast?
Like a keg explosion perhaps?
Also, can you mess up a beer that bad where it will result in beeing toxic or playn deadly?
Thank you :)
No problem at all. When I speak of death that is just killing your yeast thankfully :)
No, the worst that can happen is a bad taste but nothing will make you even ill.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks alot man! Really appreciate that you take the time to answer me. And the other ones as i can see! Very unusual to finally find a guy that really takes time to answer questions! Big cudos to that man! Great video and thanks again! =D
And while i have you here! A little video tip! If you have the time atleast i and i think alot other people would really appreciate if you could make a beer with you know. The beginners version. With a stove, pot and fermentation buckets! Since you explain alot better than other UA-camrs and are easy to understand. You know, so we beginners can see it from a proffesional view!
Just wanted to put it out there!
Thanks ALOT again! You definatley just got another sub and i'm 1/4 (i think) through your whole video library hehe. Cheers!
David. I have been fermenting under 10psi for last 4 days using the fermzilla 27L and bowtie spunding valve from keg land. I have noticed that the last two days it has always been ‘loosing’ pressure per spunding valve gauge. Is it just absorbing into liquid or is the kveik done doing its thing? Just can’t figure out where the pressure would go? Thank you for any help and all your awesome videos.
Hi Peter, chances are its done :) I find its going to be 1-2 days with kveik under pressure. Glad you are enjoying the content :) much planned in the coming weeks :)
David Heath Homebrew thank you I’ll move onto dry hopping then. It’s my first time with kveik and wow! Thank you for the help.
It sure is fast, especially underpressure but you should verify with a gravity reading of course :)
What is the temperature threshold for ale yeast under pressurized fermentation? I'm living in South-East Asia and the room temperature here is around 30 degrees Celcius..
It really depends on the yeast but under pressure 30C is going to be ok for many. You should look into kveik yeast. Its happy with 30-40C generally and that is without pressure. Voss kveik is the most popular one and is available in dry and liquid.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David! Have a good one!
Great video- if I was going to make a IPA with Voss kveik, could you recommend a pressure fermentation process or with Voss kveik would you avoid pressure fermentation?
Yes for sure. The pressure will hide the yeasts esters and will allow the hops to come through more. I suggest pressure of 10-12 PSI. Temps wise anywhere from 20 to 35C will work great 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks for the comment. Should I start the fermentation under pressure?
@FrankandGeno sorry for the late reply, I am travelling for a business trip. With pressure you have a choice. I prefer to pre pressurise to set my spunding valve to ensure that it is at the right pressure. It will require a co2 bottle.
Great video as always, :) how do you know what Temp you need to have When fermenting an Breznak or a Boston Lager ?
Thank you. All yeast will have temperature tolerance and lager yeast tends to have this in the lower range. Whilst under pressure temps between 25-30C are often acceptable.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok so that high temp under pressure when the temp is around 10c. Intressting. 😄 Thx for the help.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew how much shorter Will fermentation take?
That can vary but usually much shorter. 3 days with some yeast, one day with kveik for example.
I'm investigating the possibility of get over carbonated beer, due to fermenting under pressure and after this do cold crash. My first supposition was that at low temps the liquid absorbed more CO2. This is right this way????
Yes, that is correct.
After pressure ferment in a corny keg, how would i prevent yeast and hop residue from getting into my racking keg?
I would recommend the bouncer filter. It doesn't remove flavour just the bits you do not want. You could add it in the middle of an enclosed transfer set up.
I am thinking of doing the same thing. I was thinking of cutting the metal tube inside so it’s slightly shorter and won’t be able to grab the residue at the bottom.
Or you could add a floating dip tube. This is how all my kegs are now.
I just added floating pickup in my kegs and so far I'm happy with the results. Just make sure that the tube reaches all the way to the bottom so when you purge the keg of sanitizer with co2 you can get all the sanitizer out.
Ive done the same, great way to serve :)
So brew beer as usual. Put in corny key with a little extra space for krausen. Aerate. Pitch lager yeast. Seal up. Set spunding valve to 10-12 psi. Let sit a couple days at ambient temp. Draw beer off to test for completed fermentation. Cold crash. Transfer to second keg. Place under serving psi. Does this sound about right?
Yes, perfect 🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew is there any reason to lager? Or does pressure fermentation’s ability to reduce esters- Pseudo lager for you? Or it depends on taste of beer at this point. Thanks again for all of your help, over the years. Cheers
Lagering still has a place but it is all about desired flavour, so totally your taste buds call.
Is this right from primary fermentation?
Hi Joshua, For hoppy beers and lager yes.
What temperature would you recommend for fermenting a lager under pressure?
Hi Anthony, No problem in using room temperature.
If using American ale yeast, could I also pressurise from the start of fermentation?
I was thinking that the GF conical fermenter could ferment under a low pressure,
and hold it low pressure because of the screw in the lid....
What do you think about that David ?
It will only allow around 1.5 PSI which is not enough to make any real difference sadly.
You are right! It is 1.5 PSI, my mistake. I just corrected it :)
David, regarding your comment about pressurising a lager straight away - do you mean you should bring it up to pressure with CO2 at the start of fermentation, or should you just add a spunding valve and let it build up to pressure naturally?
Hi George, In actual fact both methods will work. Some like to add pressure manually and others like to let it build naturally which requires less equipment. Personally, I manually add pressure so that I can set my spending valve ahead of adding any wort. I also like to check the PRV ahead of time. I recently made a guide to safety that covers this.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you. My thought process was that adding external pressure may inhibit yeast growth in the early stages. Just received my Fermzilla All Rounder yesterday, will put it to the test soon.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I had the same question as George below ie wouldnt adding pressure at day one of fermentation restrict fermentation as it removes oxygen that is needed initially for fermentation?
Its the oxygen in the wort that counts, not what is in the headspace 🍻
I currently have two 2.5 gallon ball lock kegs that I'm thinking of using for pressure fermentation. I'm curious as to what would be the largest batch size I could safely ferment in a 2.5 gallon keg under pressure without having krausen causing an issue.
As long as you add pressure from the start then you can use the full volume. The pressure will contain it. I would go 1 bar max.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the info! 👍
@lonewolf9390 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, another great video! I have heard that most yeast's does not like pressure and dies or takes strain under pressure. Can you provide a list or link to yeast strains that can be used e.g. White Lab's WLP925 for example? Many thanks and keep it up.
Thank you :) I think it would be fair to say that most yeast is fine with pressure fermentation. I am unaware of any list on the regular internet but I have a thread within this channels Facebook group where users have been adding their pressure fermentation results to build up information.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. Will have to ask my wife to look on your Facebook group as I don't have Facebook! Lol
No problem. I only use Facebook for the groups. That's where it is useful :)
David Heath Homebrew, maybe i will join FB just for your homebrew group! 😁
Let me know:) New accounts can look suspicious but it I know you are joining and have the account name then I can tell the other moderators to approve you :)
Hello. Is there any proper ratio between temperature and pressure when fermenting under pressure? Let’s say I want to get a clean profile beer and yeast temperature range is 18-21 C and I want to start fermenting with 21 C but I don’t really know what pressure would be enough to get clean bear without esters? 5 psi would be enough or maybe go to 15 psi ? Does any pressure above 0 psi inhibit esters during the fermentation or maybe there is some span in which I can get some esters ?
Good question! Actually, no.
Much of this is experimental. There is an excel sheet shared on my Facebook group with lots if shared data covering peoples experiences with different strains of yeast with temp and pressure levels.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank your. I don’t have Facebook account but I in this case... 👍🏻
I only use Facebook for such things myself :)
i want tpo finish a berliner weisse in the keg and spund it to naturally carbonate. At about what approx gravity would you start spunding?
Hi, if you want esters then open it fully from start to day 4 then set to 10-12 PSI. If not then set spunding to this level from the start.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew cheers dave! Inwas thinking much later like about. 006 above target fg. But I'll give your suggestion a go.
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David.
I have a few questions. Sorry if they sounds silly, but I've been sitting on my Fermzilla for about a year being too scared to try it in case I cock up a batch. I have finally decided to give it a go with a tried and tested APA recipe a managed to write using your excellent tips.
So my questions are these:
1. Do I just add the blow tie and set a pressure on the gauge as is? No need to have a blow off tube attached to the end going into sanitiser or water? I assume the diaphragm acts as an airlock.
2. For doing this beer I want some esters from the yeast. Do I just keep the blowtie set open with now pressure for the first part of fermentation and then set at 5 - 10 PSI for the remainder? And if I leave it open do I need some sort of blow off barrier with a tube into sanitiser?
Hope these make sense.
Thanks as always.
J
Sure, no problem.
1. Yes. With pressure there is no blow off
2. Yes, no pressure for the first 3-4 days then start closing to build up to 10-12 PSI. No need for anything else.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. I decided to make a gas disconnect airlock and added one to the blow tie as well. I like watching it bubble.
I have another question. How long can you keep harvested yeast in the fridge for?
Great.
I would use regular havested yeast with a week.
What happen if we ferment under negative preasure
You will create a vacuum. Not good.
Thanks for your good videos David. I am starting to brew a pilsner extractkit, (Muntons Continental Pilsner 3kg Barley malt extract). In the kit, there is 5gr unmarked lageryeast, but i want to change this to Saflager W 34/70, 2x11,5gr. I also want to add 500gr spraymalt to boost ABV a little bit. I`m trying out Fermzilla allrounder with spounding valve and pressure-fermenting for the first time, and have som wonders about pressure and temp? Force Carbonation Chart shows me to use aprx 25 PSI at 18C for medium carbonation (lager), but u say in your video max 15 PSI.. Do you have some toughts about my brewing plan?? (HELP) ;)
Ahh, my bad. I`m new to brewing and i understand now that force Carbonation chart is for the period AFTER the fermenting..?
Hi Stig, this yeast is known to be able to ferment warm, even without pressure. So there will be no issues in taking the temps higher than ambient, if you can. Ive known it work at 25C at 15 PSI.
i ve tried to ferment a lager in this way but the result i think is dissapointed. i used liquid yeast wlp925 ,and the pressure in the keg was adjusted to 15 psi. the temperature was about 20-21 celsius. after 10 days i transfered the beer in another keg to keep the clearest content but the smell was not so good. it is smells like iodine, like medicines if i can discribe it right..the same time the half of the batch it was fermented the classical way with dry yeast in a freezer in 12 degrees celsius and the smell is what i was expected..anyone has any idea what was went wrong?
Did you have pressure right from the start of fermentation? Also what are you using to clean and did you fully rinse?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew i am usually using pbw for cleaning the kegs and sanipro for rinse everything.. From the very first time i started homebrewing never had any problems of contamination in my beers. The pressure in the keg was from the moment i closed the cap 15 psi.
Can a device like Tilt be used under pressure? Thanks
I use a tilt at up to 1.5 bar- no issues
Ive had no issues.
Hello. At what temperature can I ferment a US-05 Ale yeast under 12 psi pressure? I'm making IPA beer. 25 LT. I couldn't find any clear information on exactly how many degrees I should do.
Hi, Personally ive gone up to 35C under pressure with 05 with great results.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Really ? I kept it between 23 degrees and 13 15 psi and frankly I was a little worried. 35C really worked like kveik yeast :D I can ferment my beer in summer without any worries. Thnx...
No worries there 🍻🍻🍻
okay thanks anyway. but you can ferment at a higher temperature if you ferment under pressure? / Lasse
Yes, you sure can :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew See you soon