good video, most newer cars have well-designed airboxes. my neighbor had a scatpack Charger and paid around $300 for an air intake and ended up sending it back because it raised air intake temperatures a lot.
I have a scatpack challenger. The only thing I did was a k&n drop in filter because it does flow better and the snorkel that forces outside colder air directly into the air box. Cost me less than a 100 bucks total and air Temps stay at about 5 degrees above ambient when car is moving.
I don't care about performance, I'll happily lose 5 horsepower to make my daily driver more enjoyable to take on a nice drive. Like you said, it's an economy car and it's not fast anyways.
That peice he took off is actually a cold air intake, removing that pipe will suck in hot air from the engine bay decreasing power, the main design for the air box is to get the maximum power for your engine as well as keeping dust and debre out
That's why the actual silencer box behind the bumper needs removed. The OEM ducting is inefficient. For best results, remove the passenger side brake duct inlet cover and duct from there into the engine bay. And no, you wont waterlog your engine short of it being completely submerged.
My Subaru Forester XT has had the original box air filter and "snorkus" removed BUT the snorkus was mounted down and outside of the engine compartment in front of the wheel well. The original air ducting to the engine was extended down to the same area and a pod filter added. The only disadvantage that I can see is that I need to avoid big puddles!
You hear the psst or swoosh from the turbo because it has a recirculation valve not a atmospheric blow off valve it goes back into the airbox ....take stuff off the airbox you hear it , when the turbo dumps . Although the stock air box is a true cold air intake over a pipe and filter in the engine bay .
So how can I make that box look and sound as good as the CA intakes. Or how can I get the CA intakes to function as well as stock while looking and sounding cool as they do
@@RandoManFPV you need that big box thats comes with the expensive CAI that seals all the hot air from going into the filter the pipe goes into it then you close the hood it seals it off . I ran cheap CAI for awlile no box the filter went close to that hole were the stock air box inlet was no big deal the swoosh is loud 📢 by the glove box its not going to hurt anything but its not a true CAI the computer will sense hot air going in and either lean or richen your fuel your not going to hurt anything . You cant really mod the stock air box with out messing it up or allowing un clean air in drilling holes in it just to slightly hear the swoosh is lame better just get a cheap.CAI install and call it a day a blow off valve is were you will really hear the swoosh with out modding your box or using. CAI these cars have a recirculating valve that when the turbo dumps it goes back into the intake manifold thats why you cant hear it taking that off and putting a blow off valve you will hear that sucker for sure although some say you need a tune to use it ? Not sure about thst ZZP and BNR sell them theres a video on yiu tube BOV install chevy sonic ...
Small "economy cars" are what are sold to the public, then they modify them and are used in world class rally events in several group r classes. Some classes have limitations on what has to be stock, so any modifications to the stock components gives you a big advantage.
While you are correct, this statement can be very misleading. First and foremost, we are not driving rally cars around town are we? To set up a car for a race or some type of performance based event, you must make changes that allow you to achieve the result you're looking for. Therefore, as much as possible is changed / modified in order to achieve the best performance (usually best speed / shortest time), correct? Ok, stay with me.... No competition car is EVER intended to maintain reliability. Limits are pushed without service life (to a degree) being a factor. Name one purpose built racing style car that is serviced every 7k, 5k, or even 3k mi, while maintaining the reliability of 100k+ mi which has essentially become the industry standard. Secondly, while you theoretically could improve hp, tq, or MPG by modifying your intake, it is typically useless without supporting modifications. This means you should be tuning and modifying fuel trims to compensate for additional airflow. This by itself may be pointless however, as most vehicles fuel pumps / injectors are nearly maxed out from the factory. Point is, there are so many factors when it comes to properly modifying a vehicle, and each vehicle is a different monster in and of itself. Yes k&n and others will "promise" or make certain guarantees about thier products, but truth is, it's mostly garbage numbers meant to pursue people to buy thier products.
@@Teratoma-T ls400 performance and longevity built. Toyota spent 1billion in 86-89 to produce a car that got basically a formula1/indy style motor to beat s-class and 7 series competition. How many function ca smogged early 90s s-class or 7series do you see on the road compared to ls400 🤷🏽♂️. Million mile motors. I redline my 97 daily, 320k miles and counting. Definitely a different monster.
I had a Subaru Impreza turbo. I had a mushroom filter fitted and it was mapped. A rolling road tuning expert said the standard airbox was designed to allow up to 400bhp. They even keep them on some rally cars. He removed it and refitted the airbox. It ran smoother. You also get MAF sensor failure with oil coated filters. The sensor can also make the car worse if you fit a filter. The heat from the engine can give problems for filters and the MAF sensor. So I'd avoid fancy filters.
I added more small holes on that same tube with a drill to get more air coming through the tube for more air flow. I kept the original housing and air filter.
That’s neat and all, and not really trying to necro, but at actual driving temps what does the graph look like? And I’ll just say it, let’s all be realistic here, I can screenshot his screenshot and use it as “proof” that my engine runs cooler without the snorkel to the air box. Some other comments have also raised valid points as well though, namely, how MUCH and how QUICKLY can air get through all that ducting, into your engine/turbo? I mean, it’s what, 2”x4” for a couple feet at most, versus a 4”x5” hole that goes directly to your air box? The former seems pretty restrictive and not really conducive to getting fresh air in, if you ask me.
How much and how quickly is incredibly foolish. This is not water in a hose. Air is outside, in ducting, at throttle body, in exhaust etc. ALL the time. Whether idle, wot, or off, it is there. So yes, let's be realistic here... I've got data, you should need the same if we're going to discuss. Thoughts and feelings are meaningless. Fair?
@@kadenperez4049 I'm wondering why another grown (clearly superior) man would feel the need to comment on a video about such a worthless existence of a car 🤦🤷♂️
I actually did a true cold air intake that goes into the wheel well just like the stock air intake. So I can hear the turbo now and still get true good quality cold air
By the way, I'd only use K&N air filters of any kind if I lived in a low dust area and frequent such area's. They are well proven to gain power by doing a horrible job at filtering. But if the CAI set up is installed correctly drawing cooler air in, due to a larger (poorly filtering) filtering media, you'll gain a little power.
On newer vehicles, I'd leave most alone. But the old ones I don't mind going after like a mad man. I had a wore out 98 Ranger that in 4th at 55mph, an ice burg could pass me at immediate WOT. I took the silencer out and open up the rubber piece. Then I used some gasket maker and cardboard to get the new air inlet where it needed to be. It wasn't pretty but it definitely helped. Immediate WOT at 55 in 5th and the now gained speed and was faster in 4th than before. I drove it for about 6mo without a single issue. My current truck ('93 Hardbody) is about to have a modified air box to go with the ported throttle body and other simple quick mods.
Right, this was made for and geared specifically to turbo Chev Cruze, but the entire world thinks I mean everything. Whatever. Most newer cars are somewhat maxed out air wise stock. You'd need more potent injectors to match any additional air almost immediately, especially on these economy turbo 4's
I removed the whole air box for the sound. It's a lease who cares yes I've had a chipmunk get into my engine yes it was covered lol no I'm not putting it back on
That's what I did over the weekend. I cut some holes below my box and on the side away from the engine. Sounds alot better and I feel it a better response.
First off. “It’s an Econ car stop trying to mess with it” this guys a clown. I have a friend who has a boosted Cruze making 250 at the wheels. Making close to 40 mpg. Look at Honda Civic owners bruh. The point is no matter what if you remove the duct you do get more air flow. The duct is acting as a restriction for the car. Air isn’t as clean and hotter. Now in winter that might be useful.
Teenager civic and cruze owners who think like this are morons. 250hp is nothing. If you're bragging about gas mileage you shouldn't be trying for performance, pick one not both, ugly economy cruze isn't meant for that and it's not cool.
i took my off form a 1.6 turbo cruze and now i can hear the shhhhhhh ddddddddddssssssssssssssssssdddddddddd,Got it tuned by HPF and they said that makes no difference taking it off
Of course they will tell you it doesn't matter. They are selling that product or service to you after all. I'll give you credit though, if you're tuning to compensate for changes like this, your doing it correctly. So many people do not understand that this is a necessary step.
@@Teratoma-T how does 10 degrees make a massive difference? To make the timing go out of wack? I live in Canada and the temperature changes from +40C to sometimes -40C. There is more than a 10 degree difference.
You're both right and wrong. I'll give you my experience with my air filter and engine. I have a stage1 1.9TDI AVF Passat, my stock intake hose going to the front of the car is way too small and I've actually noticed improved response after removing part of it, so basically now i have a bit of the og plastic tubing pushing fresh air towards the air box, which is now more open and can draw from the surrounding areas too. Yes, it does get a little bit hotter, but that's in no way harmful to the engine, remember, you're actually putting recirculated exhaust gases into it as well through the EGR so it isn't that big of a deal. It only matters if you're trying to squeeze the maximum performance out of it. But in my case, removing part of the cold air scoop basically let my engine breathe, it's no use breathing cold air if it's through a straw right?
Late response to this vid but, the part where he shows the snorkel back in and the air temp is not accurate. Yeah maybe on initial startup but after a good heat soak that IAT 2 temp is going to be closer to the 115 to 120 range. intercoolers do work but once you get heat in the turbo from a good boost session the temps are going to go up. I removed the snorkel on my 16 cruze and it did in fact make a big difference in response. The snorkel is too small and makes the turbo work too hard to produce the same boost pressure, those snorkels are not designed to move enough air under full boost. And forget it if you tune you car and raise the boost, I did a snorkel delete and k&n drop in filter. Now I am removing the rest of the stock snorkel and going with a 4inch duct from the front grill to lower the air temps. Best thing to do is too remove the factory snorkel and make your own, can easily be done and will allow you to keep the lower air temp and flow more air.
His air intake isn’t a straw though isn’t so you’re completely wrong. There’s no point having an open air intake if it’s hot air as if you actually listened to his video it creates problems. The air going to the engine should be as cold as possible
It "works" but in my experience (no longer have that car), the CAI's are practically worthless. You're definitely not getting colder air, and not getting more air. It's a snake oil of sorts
Thank you! This literally solved my issue with my car since I bought it. Never would’ve thought it would fix it but I had an issue with my car losing torque when accelerating .. usually between 3500-4500 rpm. The car never had an air box or anything when I bought it. Everyone was telling me it could be the TPS sensor, MAF sensor, spark plugs, or fuel injectors so I had all of those changed and didn’t do anything … until I bought a box and put it in and it went away … now it’s running like an actual sports car
I just got a 2014 chevy cruze and it was all redy took off and I'm geting horrible gas mileage and I need help how to put it back on how do I put all of it back on
Does it idle rough? You may want to look at the EGR that's built into the valve cover, common problem but GM has offered extra warranty so you may be covered. As for the duct, car-part.com is a national scrap yard search. Gmpartsdirect.com is a great source for new parts with helpful diagrams.
The ducts are designed with baffles that are what actually lowers the noise from the air coming in. Ppl are doing this just to get a better sounding engine under acceleration.
how does 10 degrees make a massive difference? To make the timing go out of wack? I live in Canada and the temperature changes from +40C to sometimes -40C. There is more than a 10 degree difference.
It's not a constant 10deg diff. These little engines run very hot as is (230f operating temp). Remember, intake temp pre and post turbo is not a constant variable. By modifying the intake you're now raising intake temp pre turbo by pulling air from within engine bay rather than front bumper. This difference in temp, could be substantial on a hot summer day sitting in traffic let's say. Deceased Fuel economy and poor performance is the best result, worst case is pre-detonation aka spark knock. Point is, why do something that would increase the risk of that?
But 10deg, even if it was a constant, absolutely could make a difference. Example: Water doesn't boil at 90°C. Correct? If you specifically need water to boil, you'll need that extra 10°. We're not worried about low temps in regards to these conditions. You're also referencing celsius, measuring in °F here in the states. +10°C is a much greater change than +10°F
What about the magnetic door inside stock air boxes , wouldn’t replacing air box for a open filter such as a k&n come increase the amount of airflow slowing the turbo to run less restricted ? Just wondering because that’s how it is on my Elantra sport , in theory replacing the stock for the open filter should make the turbo react better to throttle ?
This was only intended for turbo Cruze's. However.... I highly doubt your airbox is the most restrictive part of the intake system. In theory, less restriction can improve throttle response. I say can because it's not a direct correlation. That much is true. However, people always think an aftermarket intake will do magic. Sorry, it won't and it's usually all smoke and mirrors. I can almost guarantee the throttle body / intake manifold will always be more restrictive than the rest of the system. There is so much to talk about, but in a nutshell.... No matter the pressure, you can only force so much volume through a system. With emissions the way they are (thanks feds) OEM's are squeezing every bit of efficiency they can out of today's engines. This means an intake / filter alone won't really do much of anything without supporting changes (exhaust primarily). Even if you do both, the ECU can only compensate for so much. If you were able to get more air in the engine, and your ECU's maxed, you're going to run lean. This makes engine go boom and die a painful death. I highly suggest doing your research on this if it's something you're interested in. And be very careful of sources, there's lots of bad ones out there.
@@Teratoma-T I was thinking about doing this and honestly have had a change of heart since watching your video and reading these comments... There is a guy on cruze talks who really pushed this mod in 2012~ or so, he also pushes the PCV reroute/fix for the PCV valve going bad in the intake manifold... Do you know anything about that mod, or have any opinions on it? Because I already did the PCV fix and replaced the valve covers and it seemed to fix the rough idle and all the issues I was having.. Just wondering if you have an opinion on that since you seem pretty educated about this stuff and am now realizing a lot of the stuff on cruzetalks forum is just people low key trying to sell you shit... I do feel the PCV fix did fix my car, though.
@@Ethan-uo5ff first of all, thank you. It is much appreciated. Secondly, yes the pcv valve is a weak point in this design. I have yet to have the issue, but would likely purchase a new valve cover if I did. They're cheap, easy to replace, etc... If the replacement failed within a year or so I'd be looking for other remedy, such as the external pcv set up. BUT, only after other options have been tried. What oil are you using, and at what change interval? Personally I only use full synthetic, mobil1 preferred. Regardless of what the oil life monitor says, I'm changing it at 7500mi (15k mi life per mobil1). AND, I'm adding about 0.5-1qt by 4-5k mi. Synthetics are cleaner operating, and usually higher detergent. Is this why I've made it to 85k mi without a pcv issue? Not sure but it can't hurt. Your plastic engine parts (timing chain guides especially) will thank you at the very least. Why do I even mention oil? Well, pcv is doing nothing more than moving crank case gasses around in simple terms. It's packed full of oil vapors, which will absolutely come in contact with every bit of the pcv / parts of the intake system. Again, gaskets and plastic parts will have a much better life with synthetics over conventional liquid dinosaurs. GM issued extended warranty on the pcv / valve cover. You may have received a letter (I did). You may want to explore that option, as even if you end up doing a bypass set-up, using a new GM valve cover will be a much better quality than parts store brands.
@@Teratoma-T Yeah I have been using full synthetic after a little research, unfortunately I got the part-store brand valve covers, but I did the PCV valve fix since the one in the intake was gone. Car is running good now, replaced thermostat, water outlet valve, but I keep getting a "AC off due to high engine temp" warning every 3 days, I will reset the computer by unplugging the negative terminal and it goes away for another 3 days. Also replaced the other temp sensors to no avail.. Car is running great though, especially compared to when I was getting a low boost code because of the PCV issue. Also flushed coolant when I changed water outlet valve. Not losing any coolant that I've noticed since all of this past year~ or so, but will probably replace the water pump just to be sure.. I am really thinking the AC warning is due to maybe a software issue though since resetting it gets rid of it for 3 days of daily driving.. IDK though. Seems pretty consistent.
That's also just flat out wrong. Most components are best kept under 90C for PCs. The higher your operating temps the faster the component will degrade, so it's in your best interest to have a cooling solution that prevents it from going any higher than 80 in bursts, and 60ish during normal loads. That being said, 90C translates to 194F, which is still just under the 195-220F operating ranges of most engines. If your CPU or GPU are running 90C consistently, something is very, very wrong and you should get it fixed immediately. Clearly, mathematics was not the strong suit of either yours, or the three idiots that upvoted your comment.
Remind me why you would care what where doing to our OWN cars? Live a little jeez... I mean yeah you have a point that it won't improve performance by a whole lot because your still using the stock intake pipe. But still why should you care what where doing to our cars?
@@Teratoma-T Thats a fair response. I just think instead of telling people "Don't do this" just say " I recommend you don't do this". I understand though, your videos your title. Otherwise totally fair, and i get your point.
Raising the temp by several factors affecting it but primarily, the ECU 'sees' the less dense airflow and adds less fuel to try achieve the optimal mixture. This lesser injection of fuel has a much lesser cooling effect on the air charge and the surfaces adjacent to the airflow, creating both sub optimal gas composition entering the combustion area but an accelerating heat soak consequence in the surfaces involved.... Which in turn has the potential to open more cans of worms. Especially if you're in traffic and putting the engine under high load whenever you have the chance so you can show everyone how powerful your ride is.... Hahaa. Ahhhh, kids these days....
I don't know about this particular car, but wouldn't providing more air flow to the engine provide better MPGs? I know that what it does provide is negligible but he said it doesn't help at all.
Alot of the parts in cars in engines are there for a reason , I don't see why they would add it if it didn't hold a value purpose when the engineer designed it
It's simple. MOST vehicles fuel injectors are very close to running at capacity in stock trim. More air without fuel to compensate and keep correct air/fuel ratio means more lean. More lean = kaboom (knocking, dead engine). So add bigger injectors right? YES. But again..... This HAS to be tuned. Fuel tables and trims need updated, otherwise stock ecu has no idea what your doing, and cannot see or compensate the extra fuel and air. You'll run like shit if it runs at all. It's no different than you eating a 4lb steak, can't do it in one big gulp.
Man I have my Kia Rio 5 jacked up in the air ready to take this thing off and then I watch this video I'm glad I did cuz there are a lot of videos out there saying that it will help your car especially the Kia Rio 5 thanks man you just save me a bunch of work
The people who dislike this video are the bro-gineers who think they can do better with just a high school semester of auto tech, then the team of engineers who designed the car 😆
100% agreed. This goes for ever vehicle out there. There's a reason the manufacturer put it there, most of us are not mechanical engineers! We don't have millions of dollars going into R n D like they do. You are not doing a free mod bcuz you'll eventually pay for it in MPG. Spend money to save money and buy a proven design cold air intake, NOT A SHORT RAM cheapo one, spend the money to a true cold air intake that sucks from outside the engine bay, cold air = more 02 and better mileage.
The comments are hilarious 😂. Intake noise and horsepower gains are two different things. The point of this is to truly understand how air temperature affects performance. If you're gonna remove any part of your air intake system you have to consider where your air filter will be sucking air in from. Hot air will kill your performance. If you get off on intake noise then just route your intake into your car's climate control ducting. That would give you some serious intake noise! Probably make you feel like you're inside the damn turbo. Hell, it might even make more horsepower than having an open air filter sucking in hot under hood air. Now that I remember, the Ford Lightning actually had a system that did just that! It sucked cold air in from the a/c system when you mashed the pedal. True story, Google it. I'm so doing this. Nice vid "crusher of dreams".
Hmm interesting, I am thinking though that would be like a bad A/C system that creates a negative pressure in the cabin. Effectively, it will pull whatever air is in from outside. All your seals will be making farting noises also.... At least that is how I picture it! 😂
Just watched a scotty Kilmer complaint about the same things they’ve ruined my day really sad ,so basically who ever wants a mode shouldn’t do it with their own cars.? Now am going to do the opposite I don’t care anymore.
More air in when requiring less throttle to open to let air in, less gas used.. doing a pretty good favor.. and when doing a intake mod where you open up the amount of air allowed to be taken in as well as directing this air from outside the engine bay then yessir, you are increasing efficiency.. if you do it right…. But my tacoma suckd air through the wheel well and had a 2” tube going 2 feet back in the well.. I deleted that and routed a new 8” duct directly to where the floodlights should go and put in a water diverter with a good filter and gave me all of 7 hp. Lol. But gas milage was way better…
I have a 2006 Honda Civic and the damn resonator just broke off while I was driving. I literally had to pull over and reach under the bumper and yank out the damn box. With that being said, now my damn car is sucking in hot air! I know it’s going to be pricey at the dealership. 😣
Couldnt agree more, hot air kills power, still people try to invent the wheel over and over again. Listening to "broscience" and buying cheap ram airs/ induction systems and yeah if it sounds cool it must be better. NOT. If you have a N/A engine the engine will take as much air it need through original well serviced air filter. The problem isnt in that area at all if you searching for power.
HOT AIR KILLS POWER????? you are fucking insane HAHHAHAHAHA... engines are made to be run at a certain temperature. If hot air don't killed power, we wouldn't have egr if that was the case.
@@MeniscoManeiro You must been asleep at school. EGR doesnt have anything to do with power. Cold air have more efficiency. Cold vs hot air, for an example 10 degrees differens does 3% in horsepower. Thats basics you should know if you where educated.
It really depends on what you have I have an F-150 and that thing that I have on my truck that I took off next down like three times smaller so it's really restrictive and I can feel that it accelerates a lot faster after I took it off and I know good and well my engine isn't going to overheat so I'll be fine thank you
Nowhere in this do I state that this is applicable to any other vehicle besides the turbo equipped cruze. Also, not once did I say that this would cause overheating. What I referred to is charge air temps. Again, this only applies to forced induction vehicles, specifically the turbo cruze in this instance. How you wound up interpreting any of this to apply to an F150, I'll never know.
2016 the entire design of the cruze changed. While the engine at its core is extremely similar, it is not identical. I too can hear the turbo spool (faintly) if the conditions are right. But the point of this is to inform people that "modding" the air box isn't a good way to try and increase the noticeable sound of the turbo.
SSMowry I can hear it at all times not really thinking about mods to increase the turbo fun noises but I’d probably mess with it and get cai and downpipe
This information is so wrong what do you mean by don’t mess with the stock air filter, even if it’s an na application more airflow is used for more power, you said that not even a true cold air intake would work and that’s so wrong, if you use the correct cold air intake and exhaust combination and get a nice reflash or tune it will get way better performance. Tunning from a reputable tunner where I live is around 120$ maybe that’s why I see it as a good option but to each their own
You managed to get all the detail, except for the point that this is geared towards turbo Cruze models only. Which stock ducting truly comes from the front grille, i.e. Fresh air. Changing the stock airbox (sealed to ducting to front grille) means you're intake is is pulling majority of not all of it's air from engine bay, which will always be a significantly higher temp than ambient air. My info isn't wrong, your (like many others) interpretation is. Besides that point, this is geared towards the everyday person who slaps an intake on and calls it a day. Those folks aren't tuning.
You must not really know what your talking about, the air box can restrict air from coming into intake, removing the box or removing the restriction can help the motor
Partially correct, not ALWAYS the case. Note, this was made specifically for the turbo Cruze which is very unique in it's air ducting, lack of outside air within engine bay, higher than normal operating temps, very specific MAF placement, etc... Thanks though
@@TechBrosGamingChannel you have mental learning difficulties and he doesn’t. Any normal person could understand what he’s saying, he even used scientific data to back up his points. I’ll buy you a pack of crayons for Christmas
Good good advice, yes air boxes keep the air going into the engine cooler than the air in the engine bay. After market replacement panel filters to use in the air box can give some improvements such as K&N. Great vid thank you.
@@codileecaldwell430 omg another idiot that doesn't understand the intercooler isn't some magical device. If you know the word intercooler you should also know it's functions and limitations. How "cool” you think that intercooler makes things? seeing as how it's literally sandwiched in with a radiator running 225 degree coolant through it..... Hmmm. And how does it work? Doesn't it use air flow to regulate temp? What happens when your sitting at a red light, stuck in traffic jam, etc. on a hot summer day? Think your fan is plenty good enough to keep things cool? To an extent.... Keep learning
Just do a Jr. Air Aid Intake that uses the factory air box & fittings that deletes the resonator and uses a drop in filter. Got one on my truck, works great and doesn’t stall anymore like with the stock intake.
And that's your opinion.... But a Dyno will never be able to recreate more than a couple of real world conditions. I've spent weeks of real world driving evaluating both real time. That's not something you're going to be able to replicate by doing a few pulls on a Dyno.
@@Teratoma-T mind i tell you each car is different and will perform differently in my case i own a 2017 subaru impreza and by modding my stock intake and removing pointless shit my response time has increased torque level increased lower p.m. take off increased I notice a major difference
@@SWED904 exactly..... So please explain how your taking advice about a Chevrolet Cruze (turbo only, as stated in video) and interpreting that to your vehicle?
@@Teratoma-T what ???? Somthing about a turbo ??? What does this have to do with your car ??? Hughhh ? My car is not turboed and neither is yours ! I said each car will perform diffrently like mine it takes of better at low rpms its more responsive on the other hand your car will be more responsive on higher rpms or might not add a higer reapons but more air flow which will aid in better mpg !
@@SWED904 ok.... Clearly I have to spell this out for you. This video and information is NOT for you, this has nothing to do with your Subaru. This video is ONLY for 2010-2015 Chevrolet Cruze TURBO (1.4L) vehicles. There are a lot of things about cars that does apply to other vehicles, this is NOT one of those things, as stated before many many times. Secondly, the majority of Cruze's on the road are a 1.4L turbo, from the factory, yes... TURBO. Know what your talking about before you go on rants with people. What you do with your car is totally irrelevant to the information contained here.
Thats why your supposed to installe a heat shield over the open port people need to not assume things and make sure there sources are also valid and reliable anyone that knows ANYTHING about COLD AIR INTAKES knows this !! Mine is moded correctly guess what gas mileage went up and my boost is up without haveing to get all technical and manually turn the boost up
Noup not a economic car is very expensive to fix and is a sport car. You have everything in the mini to say.....YES I have a pocket sport car. Rpm front in you, manual transmission good suspension etc.
An explanation of why it's bullcrap woulda been a good idea, you can't expect people to just blindly accept your word/opinion as fact. What you're hearing is low pressure air turbulence. (which, turbo charged engines often make when they run an open pod filter in the engine bay. *Which is also a dumb idea as the compressor has to do all the work drawing the air into the piping and impeller, and hot air from inside the engine bay at that....) Instead of extending the airbox cavity opening down near the area where high pressure air is flowing through the bumper and/or under the car, (which also has a smaller cross section for the opening to help transition the slower moving high pressure air to a slightly lower pressure but faster moving airflow.) When you remove this source of high velocity airflow into the airbox, you have a larger opening in the airbox cavity where the downward movement of the piston is essentially the only thing doing all the work to feed air into the engine by creating a vacuum and drawing air from the inlet into the combustion area. This air that is drawn into the combustion area is then filled by air that was in the airbox, which then draws air in through the opening in the cavity. Without getting caught up in unnecessary and overly complicated fluid dynamics, the cause of the sound is the air being drawn into the airbox and passing by the sharp edge of the opening. As air moves through the opening in the cavity, it is passing through a cross section and upon entering the airbox cavity the air is immediately exposed to the much larger cross section of the airbox and it's flow spreads put laterally to the lower pressure region adjacent to the flow direction into the airbox. This creates a vortex on the inside edge of the airbox cavity and the interaction of the tumbling air in the low pressure vortex against the higher pressure boundry layer of the airflow immediately entering the airbox results in friction between the air molecules. Ie; an energetic reaction we perceive as sound. When you have the airflow being guided from the high pressure region at the front/bottom of the engine bay, it is constantly feeding a relatively pressurized source of air into the airbox, even when the piston is not drawing air in. Which inturn fills up the cavity with a slightly pressurized reservior of air and when the piston moves down the pressure difference initiates the movement of air towards the low relatively pressure zone of the inlet. Which is why airboxes are a specific volume for the displacement and operating characteristics of the ICE. *There's much more to it, like the resonant properties of the airbox, the characteristics of the plenum n runner length n valve lift n AFM/MAP sensors etc etc, but that the general jist of it. If you want that noise, draw the air from the high pressure zone at the base of the windscreen, behind the rear lip of the bonnet and incorporate some small but well considered and placed vortex generators into the inlet. Or.... Stop being a retard and trying to roll a turd in glitter. If you're going to be loud, you at least should be fast so you can quickly get away from trouble/notice. If your car is slow, try make it quiet so you can sneak away from trouble/noticed. Being slow and loud is.... retarded. There's no other word for it.
Well explained. In all fairness, this was many years ago and even now I still struggle to translate things exactly how I'd like, in a dozen minutes or less. But regardless, the target audience usually won't listen regardless of how factual, and accurate you try to be. So in the end I hope it just provides a spark of a different idea, different opinion in someone's mind. You're right, there's so much more involved than what your average Joe thinks. Fuel tables, cooling effects of fuel mix, limit of injectors, etc.. In all honesty the video could be summed up to this... "OEM's spend millions in R&D for practically every part of a car (even the smallest of things are insanely expensive). Not saying they're perfect, or "maxed out" from factory, but typically they try to squeeze every bit of power / efficiency, while maintaining acceptable reliability. All the time and money spent is exponentially beyond what these aftermarket companies (or backyard wrenches) put into their products or "Mods". So while big claims are made, it's half-assed in many ways and not always the best of ideas. Thanks for all the time invested to write your comments. Hopefully someone will take note of it one day and maybe use it do make an informed decision.
Now technically your right, but also wrong. Basically your making it into a ram air filter that's bringing in hot air from the engine bay, which is why you see the difference in temperature, now that bit seems to have a sleeve with small sharkfins or vortex generators. The best thing to do is either (if you can) take that out and shave the airbox and add a k&n like you said. This allows for smoother (not faster or more air) but it's better to have it flow freely and smoothly without interruption. And the noise is just intake noise. Listen to a 4A-GE with some nice barrels and itbs and that's the sound your pretty much replicating
Any Chevy HHR owner knows that this is rubbish advice, the stock cold air intake (The Dreaded Whooly Worm) is a coiled felt piece of shit, that you might as well be already having open to the hot engine air anyways. I'm apart of 4 FB groups dedicated to the HHR lines, and most of us HHR owners rip that bitch out, and put in something else, and actually see improvement, GM doesn't know shit!
This is the modern day equivalent of “flipping the lid”. If you don’t know what that is I feel bad for you because you missed out on the “fun” era of cars.
By making holes you have unsealed the intake, losing vacuum and intake air speed. You have more sound and your ecu will be confused for a few days due to tue change in airflow but inevitably you will end up losing power by sucking in hot air and losing vacuum/air speed. I don’t blame you though, the internet is full of misleading information.
At the end of the day if you like to mod your car DO IT who the fuck cares what anyone says if you enjoy it and you wanna trade some sound you think you hear vs some hp go for it its maybe 5-10 hp unless you are racing your car... if its a daily do what ever you want its your $
Jut the facts ma'am. Finally someone using FACTS to show what happens with you try to "improve" your car's intake system. For every "one" guy like you there are far too many other's that lie their asses off to mislead you into thinking they have the "secret improvement" that the factory will never tell us. I am a 45 year veteran of the automotive trades. I spent 35+ years with Mercedes-Benz. I'm a master tech for MB and ASE. Thank you for setting people straight.
Thanks Carl, much appreciated. There's a few left of us who actually look at reality vs marketing hype and propoganda. Just like everything else in life, anything worth having takes work and everything has consequences. These little turbo Cruze's run Pretty warm operating temps (like all modern vehicles). No way I want the air coming from the engine bay that's pretty well sealed off from outside air when that little motor's running 230-240deg normal temps. Combine that with a hot day and most people running 87octane as the manual says is fine, the timing is maxed out trying to avoid knock. Not a recipe for success in my book.
If the intercooler is so good as you stated, then the open box would have very little temp increase. My Focus ST has a terrible intercooler and when I opened by box up, temps were up 2 to 5 degrees max on a very hot day. ill take 4 degrees increase which is not noticeable but only to a dyno @ maybe 1 to 2hp for the wonderful whoosh, psh, and flutter.
Yes, GM cooler is very efficient. Problem is, it's not functioning too well with just a rad fan going in heavy traffic. Or sitting for extended times without airflow. Combine that with a hot day, and the fact that these engines run HOT, and you're ever creeping on spark knock (esp. when most everyone is using 87oct.). You'll notice I said the GM cooler, because this was intended specifically for the turbo Cruze. These have a recirculating system, so not much noise to begin with anyway. Guess everyone keeps missing that seeing how they're comparing everything BUT the Cruze turbo's.
A real machine? I don't turn wrenches for s living anymore, no need to go spend thousands of dollars on a full blown scan tool. This performs all the same functions, except for not having the ability to access all TCM, ABS sensors. As for accuracy, that's not the job of the scanner. The sensors output is the sensors output, period. The tool may not read data as quickly as the expensive units, but do thousands ofa second really matter for what I need? Again... No.
Just take the whole airbox out, hood off and unbolt the cat Thats the most power a cruze will make they are just rebadged daewoo Also do a quick search of the "walkinshaw cruze"
Lol so i did remove this little pos plastic. Let me tell you. Ive got a 2011 an its been getting no lag in the motor. An believe it or not better gas mileage. Hes saying the air temp is hotter sure bit if the cooler is clean it's not that much like hea saying an showing.
So i have a topscan hooked up on my days off an im the only temp difference i see is down by 2 degrees. An it doesn't feel like the car is breathing through a straw. Its a simple little car. Working perfectly for me.
That may be. I ran it many times without, for testing and to have complete idea of situation. My recommendation is based on a few things, that may not apply to everyone, but are common across the board to most. The biggest issue is when it's very hot. I'm in the South and it's very frequently 95+ outside. Sitting in standstill traffic, IAT's rise QUICK and get no relief since there's not enough air across the cooler to do anything. You're sitting there heat soaking more and more the longer you're in slow traffic / sitting idle. And now with the coupler removed, your pulling in majority of air from engine bay, that little 1.4 gets HOT. I personally only used 93 Octane. But GM says 87 is fine. When running 87 (as is commonly done by the majority of folks, since it's cheaper) the timing is just about maxed out, and on a very hot day, with little air across the intercooler, IAT's are borderline dangerous, especially since you're now pulling air in from engine bay rathett than outside front bumper where the temps are much less. It's an unnecessary risk. So try again in the dead of summer, watch your temps while you're out there stuck in a drive-thru or in traffic, you'd be shocked how high your IATs will get.
good video, most newer cars have well-designed airboxes. my neighbor had a scatpack Charger and paid around $300 for an air intake and ended up sending it back because it raised air intake temperatures a lot.
I have a scatpack challenger. The only thing I did was a k&n drop in filter because it does flow better and the snorkel that forces outside colder air directly into the air box. Cost me less than a 100 bucks total and air Temps stay at about 5 degrees above ambient when car is moving.
@nrgrlsd9931 You haven't researched K&N drop in filters lol😅
@@yukonstriker1703 I stopped using them and switched to a dry high flow drop in air filter after my MAF sensor went bad.
@@uptownsamcv Yup. Blame the 'oil' lol.
Known issue
I don't care about performance, I'll happily lose 5 horsepower to make my daily driver more enjoyable to take on a nice drive. Like you said, it's an economy car and it's not fast anyways.
That peice he took off is actually a cold air intake, removing that pipe will suck in hot air from the engine bay decreasing power, the main design for the air box is to get the maximum power for your engine as well as keeping dust and debre out
yes. if u want colder air it has to around the bumper or fender well or use a ram air duct from teh front of the car grill bumper or foglight housing
@@Anthonyx99how do they keep from getting water in the intake with a ram air style intake?
But but my Honda goes broooommm😂😂😂
That's why the actual silencer box behind the bumper needs removed. The OEM ducting is inefficient. For best results, remove the passenger side brake duct inlet cover and duct from there into the engine bay. And no, you wont waterlog your engine short of it being completely submerged.
My Subaru Forester XT has had the original box air filter and "snorkus" removed BUT the snorkus was mounted down and outside of the engine compartment in front of the wheel well.
The original air ducting to the engine was extended down to the same area and a pod filter added. The only disadvantage that I can see is that I need to avoid big puddles!
You hear the psst or swoosh from the turbo because it has a recirculation valve not a atmospheric blow off valve it goes back into the airbox ....take stuff off the airbox you hear it , when the turbo dumps . Although the stock air box is a true cold air intake over a pipe and filter in the engine bay .
Exactly. Unfortunately too many people believe otherwise.
So how can I make that box look and sound as good as the CA intakes.
Or how can I get the CA intakes to function as well as stock while looking and sounding cool as they do
@@RandoManFPV you need that big box thats comes with the expensive CAI that seals all the hot air from going into the filter the pipe goes into it then you close the hood it seals it off . I ran cheap CAI for awlile no box the filter went close to that hole were the stock air box inlet was no big deal the swoosh is loud 📢 by the glove box its not going to hurt anything but its not a true CAI the computer will sense hot air going in and either lean or richen your fuel your not going to hurt anything . You cant really mod the stock air box with out messing it up or allowing un clean air in drilling holes in it just to slightly hear the swoosh is lame better just get a cheap.CAI install and call it a day a blow off valve is were you will really hear the swoosh with out modding your box or using. CAI these cars have a recirculating valve that when the turbo dumps it goes back into the intake manifold thats why you cant hear it taking that off and putting a blow off valve you will hear that sucker for sure although some say you need a tune to use it ? Not sure about thst ZZP and BNR sell them theres a video on yiu tube BOV install chevy sonic ...
@@RandoManFPV you mean 'hot air intake' 😂
Small "economy cars" are what are sold to the public, then they modify them and are used in world class rally events in several group r classes. Some classes have limitations on what has to be stock, so any modifications to the stock components gives you a big advantage.
While you are correct, this statement can be very misleading. First and foremost, we are not driving rally cars around town are we? To set up a car for a race or some type of performance based event, you must make changes that allow you to achieve the result you're looking for. Therefore, as much as possible is changed / modified in order to achieve the best performance (usually best speed / shortest time), correct? Ok, stay with me.... No competition car is EVER intended to maintain reliability. Limits are pushed without service life (to a degree) being a factor. Name one purpose built racing style car that is serviced every 7k, 5k, or even 3k mi, while maintaining the reliability of 100k+ mi which has essentially become the industry standard.
Secondly, while you theoretically could improve hp, tq, or MPG by modifying your intake, it is typically useless without supporting modifications. This means you should be tuning and modifying fuel trims to compensate for additional airflow. This by itself may be pointless however, as most vehicles fuel pumps / injectors are nearly maxed out from the factory.
Point is, there are so many factors when it comes to properly modifying a vehicle, and each vehicle is a different monster in and of itself. Yes k&n and others will "promise" or make certain guarantees about thier products, but truth is, it's mostly garbage numbers meant to pursue people to buy thier products.
2020 civic type r, Ferrari’s there’s 2 dummy
"Any modification". Only those that matters. Letting your engine breath hot air isnt one of the modifications that improve performance.
@@Teratoma-T ls400 performance and longevity built. Toyota spent 1billion in 86-89 to produce a car that got basically a formula1/indy style motor to beat s-class and 7 series competition. How many function ca smogged early 90s s-class or 7series do you see on the road compared to ls400 🤷🏽♂️. Million mile motors. I redline my 97 daily, 320k miles and counting. Definitely a different monster.
@@kadenperez4049 your lack of ability to stick to context impresses me.
I had a Subaru Impreza turbo. I had a mushroom filter fitted and it was mapped.
A rolling road tuning expert said the standard airbox was designed to allow up to 400bhp. They even keep them on some rally cars.
He removed it and refitted the airbox. It ran smoother.
You also get MAF sensor failure with oil coated filters. The sensor can also make the car worse if you fit a filter. The heat from the engine can give problems for filters and the MAF sensor.
So I'd avoid fancy filters.
You got it all wrong
I added more small holes on that same tube with a drill to get more air coming through the tube for more air flow. I kept the original housing and air filter.
That’s neat and all, and not really trying to necro, but at actual driving temps what does the graph look like? And I’ll just say it, let’s all be realistic here, I can screenshot his screenshot and use it as “proof” that my engine runs cooler without the snorkel to the air box.
Some other comments have also raised valid points as well though, namely, how MUCH and how QUICKLY can air get through all that ducting, into your engine/turbo? I mean, it’s what, 2”x4” for a couple feet at most, versus a 4”x5” hole that goes directly to your air box? The former seems pretty restrictive and not really conducive to getting fresh air in, if you ask me.
How much and how quickly is incredibly foolish. This is not water in a hose. Air is outside, in ducting, at throttle body, in exhaust etc. ALL the time. Whether idle, wot, or off, it is there.
So yes, let's be realistic here...
I've got data, you should need the same if we're going to discuss. Thoughts and feelings are meaningless. Fair?
The mods depends on the type of the car intake design.
And as stated, this is specifically aimed for turbo cruze's
@@Teratoma-T why would a full grown man own a cruze or discuss its puny existance on earth anyway 🤦🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️
@@kadenperez4049 I'm wondering why another grown (clearly superior) man would feel the need to comment on a video about such a worthless existence of a car 🤦🤷♂️
@@Teratoma-T haha. Funny
@@Teratoma-T bada-bing!!
I actually did a true cold air intake that goes into the wheel well just like the stock air intake. So I can hear the turbo now and still get true good quality cold air
By the way, I'd only use K&N air filters of any kind if I lived in a low dust area and frequent such area's.
They are well proven to gain power by doing a horrible job at filtering. But if the CAI set up is installed correctly drawing cooler air in, due to a larger (poorly filtering) filtering media, you'll gain a little power.
Indeed.... IF your injectors and fuel trims can support. In the case of that 1.4 car, injectors are nearly maxed from factory and on 93 gas
On newer vehicles, I'd leave most alone. But the old ones I don't mind going after like a mad man.
I had a wore out 98 Ranger that in 4th at 55mph, an ice burg could pass me at immediate WOT.
I took the silencer out and open up the rubber piece. Then I used some gasket maker and cardboard to get the new air inlet where it needed to be.
It wasn't pretty but it definitely helped. Immediate WOT at 55 in 5th and the now gained speed and was faster in 4th than before.
I drove it for about 6mo without a single issue. My current truck ('93 Hardbody) is about to have a modified air box to go with the ported throttle body and other simple quick mods.
I have a 1994 f150. Maybe I’ll give it a try
Right, this was made for and geared specifically to turbo Chev Cruze, but the entire world thinks I mean everything. Whatever. Most newer cars are somewhat maxed out air wise stock. You'd need more potent injectors to match any additional air almost immediately, especially on these economy turbo 4's
what kind of dummy removes ducting that provides the intake with fresh air?
Unfortunately lots.
I removed the whole air box for the sound. It's a lease who cares yes I've had a chipmunk get into my engine yes it was covered lol no I'm not putting it back on
The swiss cheese mod it's the cheapest way to get more air into your stock air-box,you should try it....
That's what I did over the weekend. I cut some holes below my box and on the side away from the engine.
Sounds alot better and I feel it a better response.
First off. “It’s an Econ car stop trying to mess with it” this guys a clown. I have a friend who has a boosted Cruze making 250 at the wheels. Making close to 40 mpg. Look at Honda Civic owners bruh. The point is no matter what if you remove the duct you do get more air flow. The duct is acting as a restriction for the car. Air isn’t as clean and hotter. Now in winter that might be useful.
Teenager civic and cruze owners who think like this are morons. 250hp is nothing. If you're bragging about gas mileage you shouldn't be trying for performance, pick one not both, ugly economy cruze isn't meant for that and it's not cool.
i took my off form a 1.6 turbo cruze and now i can hear the shhhhhhh ddddddddddssssssssssssssssssdddddddddd,Got it tuned by HPF and they said that makes no difference taking it off
Of course they will tell you it doesn't matter. They are selling that product or service to you after all.
I'll give you credit though, if you're tuning to compensate for changes like this, your doing it correctly. So many people do not understand that this is a necessary step.
@@Teratoma-T how does 10 degrees make a massive difference? To make the timing go out of wack? I live in Canada and the temperature changes from +40C to sometimes -40C. There is more than a 10 degree difference.
You're both right and wrong. I'll give you my experience with my air filter and engine. I have a stage1 1.9TDI AVF Passat, my stock intake hose going to the front of the car is way too small and I've actually noticed improved response after removing part of it, so basically now i have a bit of the og plastic tubing pushing fresh air towards the air box, which is now more open and can draw from the surrounding areas too. Yes, it does get a little bit hotter, but that's in no way harmful to the engine, remember, you're actually putting recirculated exhaust gases into it as well through the EGR so it isn't that big of a deal. It only matters if you're trying to squeeze the maximum performance out of it. But in my case, removing part of the cold air scoop basically let my engine breathe, it's no use breathing cold air if it's through a straw right?
Xander Skeiron couldn’t have said it better my friend
Well cold air is essential for power, hotter air decrease power. True story. Maybe yor modification sounds better but you gain no power.
Late response to this vid but, the part where he shows the snorkel back in and the air temp is not accurate. Yeah maybe on initial startup but after a good heat soak that IAT 2 temp is going to be closer to the 115 to 120 range. intercoolers do work but once you get heat in the turbo from a good boost session the temps are going to go up. I removed the snorkel on my 16 cruze and it did in fact make a big difference in response. The snorkel is too small and makes the turbo work too hard to produce the same boost pressure, those snorkels are not designed to move enough air under full boost. And forget it if you tune you car and raise the boost, I did a snorkel delete and k&n drop in filter. Now I am removing the rest of the stock snorkel and going with a 4inch duct from the front grill to lower the air temps. Best thing to do is too remove the factory snorkel and make your own, can easily be done and will allow you to keep the lower air temp and flow more air.
His air intake isn’t a straw though isn’t so you’re completely wrong. There’s no point having an open air intake if it’s hot air as if you actually listened to his video it creates problems. The air going to the engine should be as cold as possible
So the aftermarket short air intakes doesnt works?
It "works" but in my experience (no longer have that car), the CAI's are practically worthless. You're definitely not getting colder air, and not getting more air. It's a snake oil of sorts
Thank you! This literally solved my issue with my car since I bought it. Never would’ve thought it would fix it but I had an issue with my car losing torque when accelerating .. usually between 3500-4500 rpm. The car never had an air box or anything when I bought it. Everyone was telling me it could be the TPS sensor, MAF sensor, spark plugs, or fuel injectors so I had all of those changed and didn’t do anything … until I bought a box and put it in and it went away … now it’s running like an actual sports car
I just got a 2014 chevy cruze and it was all redy took off and I'm geting horrible gas mileage and I need help how to put it back on how do I put all of it back on
Does it idle rough? You may want to look at the EGR that's built into the valve cover, common problem but GM has offered extra warranty so you may be covered.
As for the duct, car-part.com is a national scrap yard search. Gmpartsdirect.com is a great source for new parts with helpful diagrams.
The ducts are designed with baffles that are what actually lowers the noise from the air coming in. Ppl are doing this just to get a better sounding engine under acceleration.
Bub Rub says the whistle go "woo woo"!
thats only in the mornin tho
how does 10 degrees make a massive difference? To make the timing go out of wack? I live in Canada and the temperature changes from +40C to sometimes -40C. There is more than a 10 degree difference.
It's not a constant 10deg diff. These little engines run very hot as is (230f operating temp). Remember, intake temp pre and post turbo is not a constant variable. By modifying the intake you're now raising intake temp pre turbo by pulling air from within engine bay rather than front bumper. This difference in temp, could be substantial on a hot summer day sitting in traffic let's say. Deceased Fuel economy and poor performance is the best result, worst case is pre-detonation aka spark knock. Point is, why do something that would increase the risk of that?
But 10deg, even if it was a constant, absolutely could make a difference.
Example:
Water doesn't boil at 90°C. Correct? If you specifically need water to boil, you'll need that extra 10°.
We're not worried about low temps in regards to these conditions. You're also referencing celsius, measuring in °F here in the states. +10°C is a much greater change than +10°F
Say what you will but I love the sound the blow off valve makes now with my intake. I could barely hear it before.
Trading actual performance and lowering engine lifespan for 'cool sound'. You haven't been driving for more than a few years tops.
What about the magnetic door inside stock air boxes , wouldn’t replacing air box for a open filter such as a k&n come increase the amount of airflow slowing the turbo to run less restricted ? Just wondering because that’s how it is on my Elantra sport , in theory replacing the stock for the open filter should make the turbo react better to throttle ?
This was only intended for turbo Cruze's. However.... I highly doubt your airbox is the most restrictive part of the intake system.
In theory, less restriction can improve throttle response. I say can because it's not a direct correlation. That much is true. However, people always think an aftermarket intake will do magic. Sorry, it won't and it's usually all smoke and mirrors. I can almost guarantee the throttle body / intake manifold will always be more restrictive than the rest of the system.
There is so much to talk about, but in a nutshell....
No matter the pressure, you can only force so much volume through a system. With emissions the way they are (thanks feds) OEM's are squeezing every bit of efficiency they can out of today's engines. This means an intake / filter alone won't really do much of anything without supporting changes (exhaust primarily).
Even if you do both, the ECU can only compensate for so much. If you were able to get more air in the engine, and your ECU's maxed, you're going to run lean. This makes engine go boom and die a painful death.
I highly suggest doing your research on this if it's something you're interested in. And be very careful of sources, there's lots of bad ones out there.
SSMowry thanks dude
@@Teratoma-T I was thinking about doing this and honestly have had a change of heart since watching your video and reading these comments... There is a guy on cruze talks who really pushed this mod in 2012~ or so, he also pushes the PCV reroute/fix for the PCV valve going bad in the intake manifold... Do you know anything about that mod, or have any opinions on it? Because I already did the PCV fix and replaced the valve covers and it seemed to fix the rough idle and all the issues I was having.. Just wondering if you have an opinion on that since you seem pretty educated about this stuff and am now realizing a lot of the stuff on cruzetalks forum is just people low key trying to sell you shit... I do feel the PCV fix did fix my car, though.
@@Ethan-uo5ff first of all, thank you. It is much appreciated. Secondly, yes the pcv valve is a weak point in this design. I have yet to have the issue, but would likely purchase a new valve cover if I did. They're cheap, easy to replace, etc... If the replacement failed within a year or so I'd be looking for other remedy, such as the external pcv set up. BUT, only after other options have been tried. What oil are you using, and at what change interval? Personally I only use full synthetic, mobil1 preferred. Regardless of what the oil life monitor says, I'm changing it at 7500mi (15k mi life per mobil1). AND, I'm adding about 0.5-1qt by 4-5k mi. Synthetics are cleaner operating, and usually higher detergent. Is this why I've made it to 85k mi without a pcv issue? Not sure but it can't hurt. Your plastic engine parts (timing chain guides especially) will thank you at the very least.
Why do I even mention oil? Well, pcv is doing nothing more than moving crank case gasses around in simple terms. It's packed full of oil vapors, which will absolutely come in contact with every bit of the pcv / parts of the intake system. Again, gaskets and plastic parts will have a much better life with synthetics over conventional liquid dinosaurs.
GM issued extended warranty on the pcv / valve cover. You may have received a letter (I did). You may want to explore that option, as even if you end up doing a bypass set-up, using a new GM valve cover will be a much better quality than parts store brands.
@@Teratoma-T Yeah I have been using full synthetic after a little research, unfortunately I got the part-store brand valve covers, but I did the PCV valve fix since the one in the intake was gone. Car is running good now, replaced thermostat, water outlet valve, but I keep getting a "AC off due to high engine temp" warning every 3 days, I will reset the computer by unplugging the negative terminal and it goes away for another 3 days. Also replaced the other temp sensors to no avail.. Car is running great though, especially compared to when I was getting a low boost code because of the PCV issue. Also flushed coolant when I changed water outlet valve. Not losing any coolant that I've noticed since all of this past year~ or so, but will probably replace the water pump just to be sure.. I am really thinking the AC warning is due to maybe a software issue though since resetting it gets rid of it for 3 days of daily driving.. IDK though. Seems pretty consistent.
Computers Run hotter then that engine boi cmon
Yeah... Because commuters and internal combustion engines operate identically
That's also just flat out wrong. Most components are best kept under 90C for PCs. The higher your operating temps the faster the component will degrade, so it's in your best interest to have a cooling solution that prevents it from going any higher than 80 in bursts, and 60ish during normal loads.
That being said, 90C translates to 194F, which is still just under the 195-220F operating ranges of most engines. If your CPU or GPU are running 90C consistently, something is very, very wrong and you should get it fixed immediately.
Clearly, mathematics was not the strong suit of either yours, or the three idiots that upvoted your comment.
@@audiogarden21 Pretty sure it was sarcasm bro, chill out!
Remind me why you would care what where doing to our OWN cars? Live a little jeez...
I mean yeah you have a point that it won't improve performance by a whole lot because your still using the stock intake pipe. But still why should you care what where doing to our cars?
The same reason why you care what I care. It's advice, take it or leave it.
@@Teratoma-T Thats a fair response. I just think instead of telling people "Don't do this" just say " I recommend you don't do this". I understand though, your videos your title. Otherwise totally fair, and i get your point.
Raising the temp by several factors affecting it but primarily, the ECU 'sees' the less dense airflow and adds less fuel to try achieve the optimal mixture. This lesser injection of fuel has a much lesser cooling effect on the air charge and the surfaces adjacent to the airflow, creating both sub optimal gas composition entering the combustion area but an accelerating heat soak consequence in the surfaces involved.... Which in turn has the potential to open more cans of worms.
Especially if you're in traffic and putting the engine under high load whenever you have the chance so you can show everyone how powerful your ride is.... Hahaa.
Ahhhh, kids these days....
Kids these days indeed.... Our future will be uhh..... Interesting.
Anyone with any kind of mechanical common sense knows that any air sucked in from the engine compartment is not any kind of cold air.
Common sense is not so common
@@Teratoma-T Truth lol. I get a headache on a daily basis witnessing how some can even function on their own. It's ridiculous.
Thank for the tips and the video amazing work sir, will maybe get a high flow air filter!
Very nice appreciate the graph and proof I was gonna do same shit to my mercedes c300 I put the intake tube back on
Yea bro, but this thing purrs (engine blows gaskets)
I don't know about this particular car, but wouldn't providing more air flow to the engine provide better MPGs? I know that what it does provide is negligible but he said it doesn't help at all.
Alot of the parts in cars in engines are there for a reason , I don't see why they would add it if it didn't hold a value purpose when the engineer designed it
It's simple. MOST vehicles fuel injectors are very close to running at capacity in stock trim. More air without fuel to compensate and keep correct air/fuel ratio means more lean. More lean = kaboom (knocking, dead engine).
So add bigger injectors right? YES. But again..... This HAS to be tuned. Fuel tables and trims need updated, otherwise stock ecu has no idea what your doing, and cannot see or compensate the extra fuel and air. You'll run like shit if it runs at all. It's no different than you eating a 4lb steak, can't do it in one big gulp.
Man I have my Kia Rio 5 jacked up in the air ready to take this thing off and then I watch this video I'm glad I did cuz there are a lot of videos out there saying that it will help your car especially the Kia Rio 5 thanks man you just save me a bunch of work
The people who dislike this video are the bro-gineers who think they can do better with just a high school semester of auto tech, then the team of engineers who designed the car 😆
HAHAHAHA
Let’s all be honest nobody does that to get performance or power it’s just the sound I’m guilty
Okay, but not all vehicle's intake tubing is a functional scoop like yours. Mine is just a closed ended tube with a hole bored on the under side of it
Notice how I never mentioned any vehicle besides the Cruze (turbo models)? Theres a reason for that..... This wasn't for you or your vehicle.
Thanks
Question sir...what about Injen Cold Air Intake for a 350z VQ35HR? Are those any good?? Any information will help me out. Thanks in advance.
Injen short ram will decrease power
100% agreed. This goes for ever vehicle out there. There's a reason the manufacturer put it there, most of us are not mechanical engineers! We don't have millions of dollars going into R n D like they do. You are not doing a free mod bcuz you'll eventually pay for it in MPG. Spend money to save money and buy a proven design cold air intake, NOT A SHORT RAM cheapo one, spend the money to a true cold air intake that sucks from outside the engine bay, cold air = more 02 and better mileage.
The comments are hilarious 😂. Intake noise and horsepower gains are two different things. The point of this is to truly understand how air temperature affects performance. If you're gonna remove any part of your air intake system you have to consider where your air filter will be sucking air in from. Hot air will kill your performance. If you get off on intake noise then just route your intake into your car's climate control ducting. That would give you some serious intake noise! Probably make you feel like you're inside the damn turbo. Hell, it might even make more horsepower than having an open air filter sucking in hot under hood air. Now that I remember, the Ford Lightning actually had a system that did just that! It sucked cold air in from the a/c system when you mashed the pedal. True story, Google it. I'm so doing this. Nice vid "crusher of dreams".
Hmm interesting, I am thinking though that would be like a bad A/C system that creates a negative pressure in the cabin. Effectively, it will pull whatever air is in from outside. All your seals will be making farting noises also.... At least that is how I picture it! 😂
Just watched a scotty Kilmer complaint about the same things they’ve ruined my day really sad ,so basically who ever wants a mode shouldn’t do it with their own cars.? Now am going to do the opposite I don’t care anymore.
More air in when requiring less throttle to open to let air in, less gas used.. doing a pretty good favor.. and when doing a intake mod where you open up the amount of air allowed to be taken in as well as directing this air from outside the engine bay then yessir, you are increasing efficiency.. if you do it right…. But my tacoma suckd air through the wheel well and had a 2” tube going 2 feet back in the well.. I deleted that and routed a new 8” duct directly to where the floodlights should go and put in a water diverter with a good filter and gave me all of 7 hp. Lol. But gas milage was way better…
Not only that, you are making it easier for rodents to find their way into your airbox
Valid point! I've never had the issue personally, but have witnessed it on customer's vehicles
Is that Jake delome
I have a 2006 Honda Civic and the damn resonator just broke off while I was driving. I literally had to pull over and reach under the bumper and yank out the damn box. With that being said, now my damn car is sucking in hot air! I know it’s going to be pricey at the dealership. 😣
thats why you dont take it in to a dealership to get fixed
A better mod is to put insulation reflective around the air box and a high flow air filter
I hate my air box it’s not attached to anything on the bottom and rattles when going over bumps
Couldnt agree more, hot air kills power, still people try to invent the wheel over and over again. Listening to "broscience" and buying cheap ram airs/ induction systems and yeah if it sounds cool it must be better. NOT. If you have a N/A engine the engine will take as much air it need through original well serviced air filter. The problem isnt in that area at all if you searching for power.
Wise words
HOT AIR KILLS POWER????? you are fucking insane HAHHAHAHAHA... engines are made to be run at a certain temperature. If hot air don't killed power, we wouldn't have egr if that was the case.
@@MeniscoManeiro You must been asleep at school. EGR doesnt have anything to do with power. Cold air have more efficiency. Cold vs hot air, for an example 10 degrees differens does 3% in horsepower. Thats basics you should know if you where educated.
Well, the battle continues. Both sides speak as though they are the truth.
@@MeniscoManeiro yes hot air is less dense therefore it does kill power and EGR systems do rob power lol thats why many diesels owners do EGR deletes
Unless it’s a race car! The Stock air box will keep the heat out! Don’t waste your money!
Precisely
Whats that intro tune its a banger
It really depends on what you have I have an F-150 and that thing that I have on my truck that I took off next down like three times smaller so it's really restrictive and I can feel that it accelerates a lot faster after I took it off and I know good and well my engine isn't going to overheat so I'll be fine thank you
Nowhere in this do I state that this is applicable to any other vehicle besides the turbo equipped cruze. Also, not once did I say that this would cause overheating. What I referred to is charge air temps. Again, this only applies to forced induction vehicles, specifically the turbo cruze in this instance. How you wound up interpreting any of this to apply to an F150, I'll never know.
SSMowry I’m not arguing whether this works or not, just stating a fact: there is a twin turbo F-150
There’s f-150’s with forced induction, theyr called Lightning’s. Again speaking when u have no idea what your talking about
My 2018 Cruze turbo whistle and bov I can hear from stock 🤷🏽♂️
2016 the entire design of the cruze changed. While the engine at its core is extremely similar, it is not identical. I too can hear the turbo spool (faintly) if the conditions are right. But the point of this is to inform people that "modding" the air box isn't a good way to try and increase the noticeable sound of the turbo.
SSMowry I can hear it at all times not really thinking about mods to increase the turbo fun noises but I’d probably mess with it and get cai and downpipe
Run premium fuel dude....no knock.....ever!
Oh trust me, I do. Lucky enough to have 93 readily available in my area.
This information is so wrong what do you mean by don’t mess with the stock air filter, even if it’s an na application more airflow is used for more power, you said that not even a true cold air intake would work and that’s so wrong, if you use the correct cold air intake and exhaust combination and get a nice reflash or tune it will get way better performance. Tunning from a reputable tunner where I live is around 120$ maybe that’s why I see it as a good option but to each their own
You managed to get all the detail, except for the point that this is geared towards turbo Cruze models only. Which stock ducting truly comes from the front grille, i.e. Fresh air. Changing the stock airbox (sealed to ducting to front grille) means you're intake is is pulling majority of not all of it's air from engine bay, which will always be a significantly higher temp than ambient air. My info isn't wrong, your (like many others) interpretation is.
Besides that point, this is geared towards the everyday person who slaps an intake on and calls it a day. Those folks aren't tuning.
You must not really know what your talking about, the air box can restrict air from coming into intake, removing the box or removing the restriction can help the motor
Partially correct, not ALWAYS the case. Note, this was made specifically for the turbo Cruze which is very unique in it's air ducting, lack of outside air within engine bay, higher than normal operating temps, very specific MAF placement, etc...
Thanks though
Lmao intercooler dummy
The Karen in the car world. There’s a Karen in every group.
Including the comment section.
@@Teratoma-T Yep. And you're it buddy. lol
You do you and we'll do our thing
@@Teratoma-T What you doin outside the kitchen, Karen?
@@Teratoma-Twho tryna do performance mods on a Chevy Cruz😂 he’s right ya’ll goofy for that shit
@@TechBrosGamingChannel you have mental learning difficulties and he doesn’t. Any normal person could understand what he’s saying, he even used scientific data to back up his points. I’ll buy you a pack of crayons for Christmas
Good good advice, yes air boxes keep the air going into the engine cooler than the air in the engine bay. After market replacement panel filters to use in the air box can give some improvements such as K&N. Great vid thank you.
Thanks!
OMG another idiot that doesn’t know what an intercooler is for
@@codileecaldwell430 omg another idiot that doesn't understand the intercooler isn't some magical device. If you know the word intercooler you should also know it's functions and limitations. How "cool” you think that intercooler makes things? seeing as how it's literally sandwiched in with a radiator running 225 degree coolant through it..... Hmmm. And how does it work? Doesn't it use air flow to regulate temp? What happens when your sitting at a red light, stuck in traffic jam, etc. on a hot summer day? Think your fan is plenty good enough to keep things cool? To an extent.... Keep learning
Just do a Jr. Air Aid Intake that uses the factory air box & fittings that deletes the resonator and uses a drop in filter. Got one on my truck, works great and doesn’t stall anymore like with the stock intake.
When aftermarket intake are installed they should be turned
Umm ok its your opinun its all been proven on the dyno your wrong just letting you know
And that's your opinion.... But a Dyno will never be able to recreate more than a couple of real world conditions. I've spent weeks of real world driving evaluating both real time. That's not something you're going to be able to replicate by doing a few pulls on a Dyno.
@@Teratoma-T mind i tell you each car is different and will perform differently in my case i own a 2017 subaru impreza and by modding my stock intake and removing pointless shit my response time has increased torque level increased lower p.m. take off increased I notice a major difference
@@SWED904 exactly..... So please explain how your taking advice about a Chevrolet Cruze (turbo only, as stated in video) and interpreting that to your vehicle?
@@Teratoma-T what ???? Somthing about a turbo ??? What does this have to do with your car ??? Hughhh ? My car is not turboed and neither is yours ! I said each car will perform diffrently like mine it takes of better at low rpms its more responsive on the other hand your car will be more responsive on higher rpms or might not add a higer reapons but more air flow which will aid in better mpg !
@@SWED904 ok.... Clearly I have to spell this out for you. This video and information is NOT for you, this has nothing to do with your Subaru.
This video is ONLY for 2010-2015 Chevrolet Cruze TURBO (1.4L) vehicles.
There are a lot of things about cars that does apply to other vehicles, this is NOT one of those things, as stated before many many times.
Secondly, the majority of Cruze's on the road are a 1.4L turbo, from the factory, yes... TURBO. Know what your talking about before you go on rants with people. What you do with your car is totally irrelevant to the information contained here.
Dont lie Dr Phil il cut my airbox tomorow
Different day different temperature
**LMFAO. Come on man let them enjoy it some like the sound.....**
Recorded horizontally😀👍
Driven with mine off for 3 years and havnt had a single issue 🤷🏻♂️
this has to be the dumbest airbox mod i've seen, you're removing a direct cold air feed lmao
@@MrRohanThomas no your not your still getting cold air😂😂😂 it’s the same installing the cold air intake
@@TTV_DubzzGaming It’s you’re. An abbreviation for you are. Your is for possession.
Example:
You’re sitting on your car
@@dboy2547 you think I give a shit smart ass and I did use proper grammar 🤦♂️
Thats why your supposed to installe a heat shield over the open port people need to not assume things and make sure there sources are also valid and reliable anyone that knows ANYTHING about COLD AIR INTAKES knows this !! Mine is moded correctly guess what gas mileage went up and my boost is up without haveing to get all technical and manually turn the boost up
Noup not a economic car is very expensive to fix and is a sport car. You have everything in the mini to say.....YES I have a pocket sport car. Rpm front in you, manual transmission good suspension etc.
The ppl that thought removing and actual cooler air intake duct helps cannot be helped they believe hype not facts
Truth
Alright Hank hill
more fuel, more spark, more air.....more power! unless u don't know what ur doing don't F***K with it! what ive learned.
Just Swiss cheese your box
Ok phillip rivers I'll stop doing things that get me free hp.
Ok Ray Charles, keep ignoring this blatantly isn't for you
An explanation of why it's bullcrap woulda been a good idea, you can't expect people to just blindly accept your word/opinion as fact.
What you're hearing is low pressure air turbulence.
(which, turbo charged engines often make when they run an open pod filter in the engine bay. *Which is also a dumb idea as the compressor has to do all the work drawing the air into the piping and impeller, and hot air from inside the engine bay at that....) Instead of extending the airbox cavity opening down near the area where high pressure air is flowing through the bumper and/or under the car, (which also has a smaller cross section for the opening to help transition the slower moving high pressure air to a slightly lower pressure but faster moving airflow.)
When you remove this source of high velocity airflow into the airbox, you have a larger opening in the airbox cavity where the downward movement of the piston is essentially the only thing doing all the work to feed air into the engine by creating a vacuum and drawing air from the inlet into the combustion area. This air that is drawn into the combustion area is then filled by air that was in the airbox, which then draws air in through the opening in the cavity. Without getting caught up in unnecessary and overly complicated fluid dynamics, the cause of the sound is the air being drawn into the airbox and passing by the sharp edge of the opening. As air moves through the opening in the cavity, it is passing through a cross section and upon entering the airbox cavity the air is immediately exposed to the much larger cross section of the airbox and it's flow spreads put laterally to the lower pressure region adjacent to the flow direction into the airbox. This creates a vortex on the inside edge of the airbox cavity and the interaction of the tumbling air in the low pressure vortex against the higher pressure boundry layer of the airflow immediately entering the airbox results in friction between the air molecules. Ie; an energetic reaction we perceive as sound.
When you have the airflow being guided from the high pressure region at the front/bottom of the engine bay, it is constantly feeding a relatively pressurized source of air into the airbox, even when the piston is not drawing air in. Which inturn fills up the cavity with a slightly pressurized reservior of air and when the piston moves down the pressure difference initiates the movement of air towards the low relatively pressure zone of the inlet. Which is why airboxes are a specific volume for the displacement and operating characteristics of the ICE. *There's much more to it, like the resonant properties of the airbox, the characteristics of the plenum n runner length n valve lift n AFM/MAP sensors etc etc, but that the general jist of it.
If you want that noise, draw the air from the high pressure zone at the base of the windscreen, behind the rear lip of the bonnet and incorporate some small but well considered and placed vortex generators into the inlet.
Or....
Stop being a retard and trying to roll a turd in glitter. If you're going to be loud, you at least should be fast so you can quickly get away from trouble/notice. If your car is slow, try make it quiet so you can sneak away from trouble/noticed.
Being slow and loud is.... retarded. There's no other word for it.
Well explained. In all fairness, this was many years ago and even now I still struggle to translate things exactly how I'd like, in a dozen minutes or less. But regardless, the target audience usually won't listen regardless of how factual, and accurate you try to be. So in the end I hope it just provides a spark of a different idea, different opinion in someone's mind. You're right, there's so much more involved than what your average Joe thinks. Fuel tables, cooling effects of fuel mix, limit of injectors, etc..
In all honesty the video could be summed up to this... "OEM's spend millions in R&D for practically every part of a car (even the smallest of things are insanely expensive). Not saying they're perfect, or "maxed out" from factory, but typically they try to squeeze every bit of power / efficiency, while maintaining acceptable reliability. All the time and money spent is exponentially beyond what these aftermarket companies (or backyard wrenches) put into their products or "Mods". So while big claims are made, it's half-assed in many ways and not always the best of ideas.
Thanks for all the time invested to write your comments. Hopefully someone will take note of it one day and maybe use it do make an informed decision.
@@Teratoma-T
Very mature reply. Thank you.
Good advice . hopefly kids listen....
Most don't, oh well. To each their own I suppose
@@Teratoma-T yup theyll learn the hard way which is fine. give them experience
Now technically your right, but also wrong. Basically your making it into a ram air filter that's bringing in hot air from the engine bay, which is why you see the difference in temperature, now that bit seems to have a sleeve with small sharkfins or vortex generators. The best thing to do is either (if you can) take that out and shave the airbox and add a k&n like you said. This allows for smoother (not faster or more air) but it's better to have it flow freely and smoothly without interruption. And the noise is just intake noise. Listen to a 4A-GE with some nice barrels and itbs and that's the sound your pretty much replicating
Your method still increases heat soak
its not performance its economy" i still dont know what the fuck kind of vehicle he talking bout. i was lookin up 05 mustang cobra mods
Any Chevy HHR owner knows that this is rubbish advice, the stock cold air intake (The Dreaded Whooly Worm) is a coiled felt piece of shit, that you might as well be already having open to the hot engine air anyways. I'm apart of 4 FB groups dedicated to the HHR lines, and most of us HHR owners rip that bitch out, and put in something else, and actually see improvement, GM doesn't know shit!
V8 = I don't care a bit about mpg Smiles per gallon Bub not miles per gallon
This is the modern day equivalent of “flipping the lid”. If you don’t know what that is I feel bad for you because you missed out on the “fun” era of cars.
Wish I seen this video before I did the Mopar CAI on my cat would have liked to known the before and after
I drilled holes into my corsa C 1.0 airbox but kept all the air duct in place it feels a tiny bit more responsive
By making holes you have unsealed the intake, losing vacuum and intake air speed. You have more sound and your ecu will be confused for a few days due to tue change in airflow but inevitably you will end up losing power by sucking in hot air and losing vacuum/air speed. I don’t blame you though, the internet is full of misleading information.
Your very much wrong on the part you removed thats not a silencer nor the part commonly removed but I understand you had to make a video.
Oh. Well I can do it since mine is a performance car
Congratulations
@@Teratoma-T 😂😂I was joking st playing around but thank you for the info
Acura is Honda's usa luxury/sport brand. But hey who cares when you put down the young car guy. Let them learn by error
Lol @ all the people that think they know more than the engineers who designed the cars 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
At the end of the day if you like to mod your car DO IT who the fuck cares what anyone says if you enjoy it and you wanna trade some sound you think you hear vs some hp go for it its maybe 5-10 hp unless you are racing your car... if its a daily do what ever you want its your $
Well i tested it myself after i modded my airbox on my fiesta st and it did way better in thermals so ist just your car that doesnt work😂😂
Thing is, this wasn't made for your vehicle, so totally irrelevant.
@@Teratoma-T put it in the title than😉
Tells people their trends are garbage and to stop doing it
Has extremely loud music intro and carbon fiber badge cover-up sticker
MadCarTK says the guy with the extremely large face and 12 subscribers 🙄
Courtney Xoxo 😘
@@courtneyxo34 My face is normal sized, it's just zoomed in really close lmao
there's a bunch of ricers giving dislikes to this guy when he's doing actual a good public information.
Thank you
Jut the facts ma'am. Finally someone using FACTS to show what happens with you try to "improve" your car's intake system. For every "one" guy like you there are far too many other's that lie their asses off to mislead you into thinking they have the "secret improvement" that the factory will never tell us.
I am a 45 year veteran of the automotive trades. I spent 35+ years with Mercedes-Benz. I'm a master tech for MB and ASE. Thank you for setting people straight.
Thanks Carl, much appreciated. There's a few left of us who actually look at reality vs marketing hype and propoganda. Just like everything else in life, anything worth having takes work and everything has consequences.
These little turbo Cruze's run Pretty warm operating temps (like all modern vehicles). No way I want the air coming from the engine bay that's pretty well sealed off from outside air when that little motor's running 230-240deg normal temps. Combine that with a hot day and most people running 87octane as the manual says is fine, the timing is maxed out trying to avoid knock. Not a recipe for success in my book.
If the intercooler is so good as you stated, then the open box would have very little temp increase. My Focus ST has a terrible intercooler and when I opened by box up, temps were up 2 to 5 degrees max on a very hot day. ill take 4 degrees increase which is not noticeable but only to a dyno @ maybe 1 to 2hp for the wonderful whoosh, psh, and flutter.
Yes, GM cooler is very efficient. Problem is, it's not functioning too well with just a rad fan going in heavy traffic. Or sitting for extended times without airflow. Combine that with a hot day, and the fact that these engines run HOT, and you're ever creeping on spark knock (esp. when most everyone is using 87oct.).
You'll notice I said the GM cooler, because this was intended specifically for the turbo Cruze. These have a recirculating system, so not much noise to begin with anyway. Guess everyone keeps missing that seeing how they're comparing everything BUT the Cruze turbo's.
I bet that temp reads somthing diff every time with that stupid app get a real machine
A real machine? I don't turn wrenches for s living anymore, no need to go spend thousands of dollars on a full blown scan tool. This performs all the same functions, except for not having the ability to access all TCM, ABS sensors.
As for accuracy, that's not the job of the scanner. The sensors output is the sensors output, period. The tool may not read data as quickly as the expensive units, but do thousands ofa second really matter for what I need? Again... No.
oh wow look ! gas was more expensive than in sep 2020! best part of the video haha!
Just take the whole airbox out, hood off and unbolt the cat
Thats the most power a cruze will make they are just rebadged daewoo
Also do a quick search of the "walkinshaw cruze"
Lol so i did remove this little pos plastic. Let me tell you. Ive got a 2011 an its been getting no lag in the motor. An believe it or not better gas mileage. Hes saying the air temp is hotter sure bit if the cooler is clean it's not that much like hea saying an showing.
So i have a topscan hooked up on my days off an im the only temp difference i see is down by 2 degrees. An it doesn't feel like the car is breathing through a straw. Its a simple little car. Working perfectly for me.
That may be. I ran it many times without, for testing and to have complete idea of situation.
My recommendation is based on a few things, that may not apply to everyone, but are common across the board to most.
The biggest issue is when it's very hot. I'm in the South and it's very frequently 95+ outside. Sitting in standstill traffic, IAT's rise QUICK and get no relief since there's not enough air across the cooler to do anything. You're sitting there heat soaking more and more the longer you're in slow traffic / sitting idle. And now with the coupler removed, your pulling in majority of air from engine bay, that little 1.4 gets HOT.
I personally only used 93 Octane. But GM says 87 is fine. When running 87 (as is commonly done by the majority of folks, since it's cheaper) the timing is just about maxed out, and on a very hot day, with little air across the intercooler, IAT's are borderline dangerous, especially since you're now pulling air in from engine bay rathett than outside front bumper where the temps are much less.
It's an unnecessary risk.
So try again in the dead of summer, watch your temps while you're out there stuck in a drive-thru or in traffic, you'd be shocked how high your IATs will get.
For the people in the comments dissing this guy explain facts to you quit being so BROKE and go buy a proper cold air intake you children